Change oil, using 10k interval. MB won't pay for your future troubles after using their 20K recommendation. My reference: 2011 Sprinter Van, 170" 2500 EXT with final 560K miles. 2016 Sprinter Van 2500 170" EXT with current 820K miles. New engine installed 180K miles ago due to failure original engine due to (in my opinion) MB recommended 20K miles oil change procedures.
My first service light came up while on a long trip with 11,000 miles on the unit. It was also a date count down, but the RV was only 15 months old. They must have initially set the wrong date in the computer.
Great video. My rig is a 2008. Oil changes recommended at 10,000 miles. The first change was done by the dealer. I noticed that MB added a quart of BG DOC. I performed the change this time. Plan to get a Blackstone report. Thanks
Great video, really appreciate it! I have 2018 170 4x4. 27,000 miles. On my 3rd oil change. Probably changed it more than I needed too. Something I have discovered with the OM642 engine. It has a lot of blow-by in the PCV system. Those of you adding 1 or 2 Qts of oil in between oil changes, very common (or starting with oil at the top of dipstick and changing it at the bottom). It is most likely not burning any oil, it is pumping it through the PCV system. Something along the lines of 1 qt per 10,000 miles (rough estimate). I installed an oil catch can, a cheap one at that and it catches a ton of oil. I will have to empty it probably 3 times in 20,000 miles. You will also see people having to clean the EGR valve, this is why. If you install a catch can it should do away with this problem.
EU has different laws on oils and diesel fuel. Example - in US maybe amsoil is a real Group IV 100%synthetic oil Castrol and Mobil had lawsuit about it in US
Good info and all the comments listed below! Our 2018 RV Sprinter is my Daily Driver, maybe 15,000 miles per year. Today at 13,500 miles I changed the Oil only for the second time no filter change. I am sending the Oil out to the Lab to double check how the Oil is holding up in my application! I am using MB oil 5w30, but I'll probably use Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 and MB filters only. I use only OEM Filters, because of the Parts Warranty represent a better value! I am using a Caterpillar Oil Test Kit, $20.00, Kit Bottle/Postage to Lab/Report.
As I mentioned our Sprinter is a 2017 Chassis with a 2018 Pleasureway Class B RV. When I bought it about 8 months ago, it had 3,200 miles on it, so I had the "B Service" even though it wasn't due. Now at 13,400 miles, I decided to change only the Oil and have it Tested to determine the Oil Change Interval. At this point I'll probably change the Oil/Filter every 20,000 miles and just the Oil every 10,000 Miles. I've spent over 50 years in the Diesel Truck/Construction Equipment Industries as a Regional/District Service Managers, so I've seen a fail amount of GOOD/Bad Maintenance Practices. IMO, I would rather error on the side of "Over Kill," rather than on the "Wish I did" side, there no down side! As for what Oil to use? I would recommend any oil that meets MB standards , but if it is available, I prefer the MB Brand because of the unquestionable quality and the fact that it stated on the Receipt, which will, benefit in the resale value. I noticed that Mobil 1 for example has 36 different Oils (all Mobile 1) but only one of them meets the 5W30 and the 229.52 Spec!
I have the 5 cylinder Sprinter and after reading reports and with past experience with Shell oils; my thought is to use the Shell T6 5W40 or 0W40. The additive package Shell uses is better than Mobil for Diesel engines. The 0W40 (I live in Chicago winters) is superior to 5W40 but the cost is much higher and availability is spotty for the T6 0W40. I can tell the difference in winter cold with using the 0W40; the motor starts and runs from cold much easier. With 185K miles I am not using any oil with the recommended 10K mile oil changes. Planning on having the oil tested on the next change.
Thanks. It’s hard to break away from that 3k mile oil change mentality that was drilled into me most of my life. I might not be brave enough to go 20k but at least I’m comfortable getting closer to that now.
I know what you mean. However I have 40 years experience testing and specifying lubricants as a design engineer, so my experience says testing based data is better.
@@ontheroadwithron2432 But you don't have 400k on your Sprinter and you don't have any feedback from fellow expediters with 400k - 700k . Those are some REAL stories , with no Blackstone BS.
3k, 10k, 20k. All worthless numbers without an oil sample test at different ranges to see what the limit to your specific oil, engine and driving style are. What's good for him still at 20k driving highway, might be already filled with soot and depleted additives by 10k to you from driving more in the city, dusty roads, short trips, oil type/viscosit, diesel amount in oil etc. Run next oil change 5k, do an oil test. Another at 7k. If all good, again at 10k. Don't go by ear on these, you're most likely throwing away brand new oil
I've sampled my oil with the same lab 3 times on the first oil and once on the second oil change. Same results (except the Nickel, Mine is at "2") 2qts added on the first 20K and 0qts nearing 40K Thanks for the video. I am satisfied that using the MB 229.52 oil is fine to 20K
Ron just purchased a 2012 Sprinter Cargo 170 ext for my business. Been looking on info about what oil to use and because of your videos I'm going to use the ESP formula. It's expensive but I feel worth it in the long run. The oil now is super black and I believe it was always serviced at a Jiffy Lube type place which just used the regular 5W-40 synthetic oil. You also answered my thoughts about having to prime the fuel filter before starting the engine. It's my first Mercedes and diesel so everything is sort of overwhelming since it's so different.
snackman yes, the regular oil will fill up the DPF filter faster since a small amount of oil is always burned in the engine. Filter is expensive to replace.
The seal number in the picture appears to be missing the last character (1) for a complete part number. Also, can't find that 13mm clamp on Europarts. could you post the part number. Keep the videos coming, have enjoyed everyone. Only Mercedes would require three additional parts besides the filter in order to correctly change the fuel filter. I have an old GL450 so I know what it takes to keep it maintained. Just purchased a Thor Compass on the MBS chassis.
That’s true however the oil temps in a diesel engine are very hot and any water will evaporate quickly once up to temperature. If you only drive a few miles at a time, i agree an annual oil change would be best. RVs are usually driven long distances so not an issue.
2:32 it's not that hard to reuse the existing MB Clic clamp, or replace with new. There is a $15 tool if you search Clic or Clic-R. That way the tension on the hose if perfect. 2:41 the MB bulletin says the clamp is to be torqued 3Nm with new seal always if disturbed, clean and dry reinstalled.
Thanks for the raw data from this report! This brings up a question which is pertinent to us. We have a 2011 Winnebago-built MB Sprinter chassis-based RV similar to the View 24V (2012 Itasca Reyo 25T). The recommendations in our manual are for servicing (A & B) are 10,000 miles/1 year rather than the 20,000 miles/2 years for later models. In your discussion, you seem to indicate that this is because of the technological advance of oils over the years. Our suspicion is when we buy the oil from the Mercedes-Benz dealer it is the same as you use. That is also probably true of the other parts like oil and air filters. We do have a generation of the 3L Turbodiesel that also runs on DEF. Has there been an upgrade in the engine from 2011 to 2015 that would preclude us from also having the service period at 20,000 miles/2years? The dealer would have a conflict of interest if asked that question as they would rather sell product twice as much. We also did have an oil analysis done by a lab in Salt Lake City through an NRVIA inspector we hired two years ago when we bought our RV. The test also turned out fine.
You ask good questions. I don't have any inside info on the engine design changes, but as an engineer, I know that constant improvements are typical in big companies. I think you are stuck with the 10K interval unless you want to take the responsibility. Another data point is Mobil 1 advertises 20K intervals with their "Ultimate" brand oil. They have done testing to back it up. Of course you can't use the Ultimate as it doesn't meet the MB spec for low ash. Personally, I'd take a sample at 10K and see the results before doing the change. My guess is the oil will be fine.
Good info - thank you. Can you post the part number for the rubber seal? I am currently at around 16K miles on my 2019 View 24J.... will be doing the fuel filter once I hit 20K miles. Thanks. I change my oil yearly... typically, I drive around 12K miles per year. It's easy and relatively inexpensive and I recycle the used motor oil.
Oil was changed 1 year ago. The level is perfect on the dipstick, but very dirty. Initial thought is to change it but it’s nowhere near the 20,000 mile mark. More like 4,000 miles. New to Diesel engines. Does the color at all indicate the need for a change?
Sorry if you already answered this, but I could not find it. What does it cost to have the oil analyzed and how long did it take. Any Tks for all the good videos
Mr. Ron - your videos are beyond helpful - you're a hoot! I will definitely do my own maintenance on my 2019 sprinter, but my local MB dealer would not reset the service lights and I haven't found a you tube video that yet explains how to do this on the latest German tech. Can you help in that area? Your C-19 video was great as well. (I'm a conspiracy theorist, so don't buy into all this media enginered hyper hysteria) YMMV
Thanks Ron! Although I have a 19VD I have put over 11,000 miles on it since we got it in November. Its just hard for me to think the oil will go 20,000. My schedule A is due in 9000 miles and I have regularly checked the oil. It did tell me to add a quart about a month ago, and I followed the directions and all seems to be well. Thanks for your update! What was the fumoto valve part number you added to your RV. I want to put that on when I change the oil with the Schedule A. Thanks again!
Great video, I drive a 2017 3500 MB sprinter. It currently have 17k miles. Yesterday it asked me to add oil, when I checked I had below minimum mark. I am wondering if it came low from dealer when new or if it is burning it...
Thanks good to know. Now I won’t worry too much about it. Taking a little trip next week to the Olympic forest up on the NE corner of Washington. A little shake down run after fixing (at least I hope) a boost leak problem. Thanks again maybe we will see you on the road sometime
Hi Ron, I only put around 3K every year on my 2016 sprinter, do you think it’s okay if I change oil every 20K instead of annually? Thanks for the effort putting these video, it helps a lot of people save money.
the oil change for a 2016 is every 2 years or 20K miles whichever comes first. So you can go 2 years unless you have some extreme operating conditions. This synthetic oil is very stable and heat resistant, however contamination with dirt, soot and does eventually build up. 2 years is fine, any longer might be at a slightly higher risk.
Great video! I see that you're using 0W-30, yet my local MB dealership (and other sources) are recommending 5W-30. We use our van year-round, and driving in the mountains during the cold winter time temperatures makes me want to try 0W-30. I know this might also improve fuel efficiency. I was wondering what made you decide to go with 0W-30 and are you having any regrets? Thanks!
Hi Ron ! Great videos, you are a true engineer, mechanic and handyman !!! I was wondering if you tow a vehicle, or just go as is? Also, what is your percentage of boondocking vs. full hookups when you travel? If you don't mind me asking !? Grandpa Bruce-NJ (just retired)
Taking on the task on changing the oil. What size oil filter wrench/socket did you use. 88mm 14 flute? Also, did you use a crush washer on the oil pan bolt? Thanks.
Thank you for the very informative video. I gotta ask, though - what is it you're blurring out on the shoulder of your t-shirt at the end of the video?
I've ordered the supplies for my first oil change, but have one other question you might be able to answer. On my 2017 Sprinter I'm trying to decide if the gear shift indicator should be showing what gear I'm in at all times. When I downshift, it shows what gear I'm driving in, but if it shifts automatically, it doesn't indicate which gear, it just shows the D. I talked with a service manager who has a Mercedes truck and thinks it should work at all times, but wasn't sure. Wondering if I need to take it in for service or if I'm expecting more than it will do.
Sounds normal. The indicator doesn’t actually show what gear you’re in. It shows which gear is selected. Also if you downshift the indicator immediately shows which gear is selected, but the transmission may not actually downshift immediately. Sometimes there is a delay for example if you have been coasting for a while.
Many people think the same as you. I am an engineer and rely on data for these type of decisions. My old oil testing by Blackstone Labs showed the oil was still good after 20k miles. I did it for 2 oil changes. Of course your experience may be different so go with what works for you.
The Bio seems to be state dependent. Probably due to state regulations. Anyway, not sure how to totally avoid it. I don't consider it to be a big deal and don't go out of my way to avoid it. For example, I've used 3-4 tanks of it and just changed my fuel filter at 37K miles. I have not seen any drawbacks using it occasionally. My 20K miles oil analysis was also clean of any defects.
Hey Ron. Question for you. Is your AC unit much louder than the RVs around you? I have noticed that my 2014 Itasca Navion AC unit, which is a low profile unit, is much louder than all the RVs around me when camping. Your thoughts
6Haase yes mine is very loud both inside and outside. Too loud to sleep with it on. Going to look into some “hush” kits before next trip. New Mach 10 units are supposed to be much quieter.
Sir Ron, have you done a video on any refrigerator fan install like I see in video using the Titian vent fans for the outside vents. My 16 Navion has a severe air flow problem due to the gas flume pipe modification with sheet metal from top to bottom at level of top vents. Then they placed a horizontal board to attach the sheet metal. No air flow from bottom to top where my evaporators coil are. The mid level small fan is so loud and inefficient! Please help.
My 2016 had a shelf over the evaporator coils. I removed the shelf and added a small fan directly above the hot spot on the coils. This seems to work OK. Some people put 2 large fans on the outlet vent and that should help most cases. Currently working on a video of a 3 fan tray inside the fridge. Can't really comment on your unit as I don't know what it looks like.
On the Road with Ron Thanks, I have two shelf’s going across, one mid way, one bottom. . Just added Axel fans to vents themselves but I got to remove the shelf. The thin metal plate was installed after a plate size scorched burn mark was discovered looking for this factory installed humming high pitch fan. I going to post my install to but await your professional install. Have Navion 15 like your except round top cap with moon room.
@@ontheroadwithron2432 Ron, if your absorption cooling unit fails, would you consider switching to a compressor cooling unit instead? I believe NovaKool and Danfoss make conversion kits for RV ammonia absorption fridges. My 2009 View 24H (absorption fridge) seemed to struggle with keeping a constant temp vs my 2019 24V View has the compressor fridge and keeps a nice steady temp.
Hey Ron , I end up in using Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 instead of 5W-40 on 2009 Sprinter 3500 (view) , later realized that manul states I should have used Mobil 1 ESP 5W-40 - Do you think i need to get that replaced ? just thought of take a reference .
John Lonappan the oil weight is mostly for different ambient temps. The 5-30 should be fine especially in cooler weather. You can use the md229.52 oil for all these 6 cylinder motors.
Just ordered the turbo seal, Ron. Thanks for the tip. Did notice one video elsewhere in which the seal was sprayed with a sealant (silicon spray, I think) before installation. Is this recommended?
6Haase the battery charger is the progressive dynamics Inverter. It located under the bed on the J model. I believe it has a picture of a wizard on it.
What do you think about going longer than the 1 year mark? I see that Mercedes recommends 1 year but I read information on these oils that they don't go bad in a one year time span. Did you do all your miles in 1 year?
Sprinter WILL EAT lots of oil at 200k , if you will be using 0w30 oil and change every 20k . So , go ahead . ( most people will never see 200k on their Sprinters ) Almost 400k on mine and STILL not eating any oil. ( 5w40 229.51 and 10k OCI)
I don'y expect to get that may miles on my RV, especially with the travel restrictions. Guy at the dealer had 400K on his also. He changed per mfg recommendations.
@@ontheroadwithron2432 Guy at dealership with 400k - is one story and that story needs to be tested for lie I know close to 50 REAL stories from REAL owner , each with 400-800k . You get the picture , like who was using what kind of oil and what OCI they had . I've got feedback from owners who used 229.5 5w40 ( much better than 229.51 or let alone 229.52 that dealer uses) Thanks for changing oil yourself and not letting deal to rip you off. I suggest buy Xentry C4 - that thing can save you on your trip and will be paid off very quickly
Hello, thank you for tips. I wanna buy fuel filter, but Mercedes have three of them, which on I need to buy? Thank you 🙏🏻 1. Fuel Water Separator Filter Product ID: 642-090-63-52 2. Fuel Filter Product ID: 642-092-04-01 3. Fuel Filter Product ID: 642-092-02-01
Change oil, using 10k interval. MB won't pay for your future troubles after using their 20K recommendation. My reference: 2011 Sprinter Van, 170" 2500 EXT with final 560K miles. 2016 Sprinter Van 2500 170" EXT with current 820K miles. New engine installed 180K miles ago due to failure original engine due to (in my opinion) MB recommended 20K miles oil change procedures.
No questions- thanks for the excellent follow up especially the turbo gasket change out
Once again..love the new info! Taking notes. My Service B light came up . I think it a date thing vs mileage. You are Mercedes Hero! Thanks again.
My first service light came up while on a long trip with 11,000 miles on the unit. It was also a date count down, but the RV was only 15 months old. They must have initially set the wrong date in the computer.
Great video. My rig is a 2008. Oil changes recommended at 10,000 miles. The first change was done by the dealer. I noticed that MB added a quart of BG DOC. I performed the change this time. Plan to get a Blackstone report. Thanks
Pretty easy to do. Main cost is oil. If you can get it on sale, it helps s lot.
@@ontheroadwithron2432 So True. Thanks
Thanks grandpa Ron, I’ll be inspecting my turbo inlet hose and use you clamp recommendation for sure!
Woohoo..going to wait for Sch B , only @16223 miles. Thanks for input and sharing info. Very appreciated!
Great video, really appreciate it!
I have 2018 170 4x4. 27,000 miles. On my 3rd oil change. Probably changed it more than I needed too. Something I have discovered with the OM642 engine. It has a lot of blow-by in the PCV system. Those of you adding 1 or 2 Qts of oil in between oil changes, very common (or starting with oil at the top of dipstick and changing it at the bottom). It is most likely not burning any oil, it is pumping it through the PCV system. Something along the lines of 1 qt per 10,000 miles (rough estimate). I installed an oil catch can, a cheap one at that and it catches a ton of oil. I will have to empty it probably 3 times in 20,000 miles. You will also see people having to clean the EGR valve, this is why. If you install a catch can it should do away with this problem.
Thank you for video very good for my leaning and Mantenance my sprinter.
Excellent videos !
The follow up tells the whole story. We get so many recommendations but no follow ups from other RUclipsr’s.
Loads of these in the UK doing 3-500k miles easily with the recommended 20k mile oil change interval.
EU has different laws on oils and diesel fuel.
Example - in US maybe amsoil is a real Group IV 100%synthetic oil
Castrol and Mobil had lawsuit about it in US
Good info and all the comments listed below! Our 2018 RV Sprinter is my Daily Driver, maybe 15,000 miles per year. Today at 13,500 miles I changed the Oil only for the second time no filter change. I am sending the Oil out to the Lab to double check how the Oil is holding up in my application! I am using MB oil 5w30, but I'll probably use Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 and MB filters only. I use only OEM Filters, because of the Parts Warranty represent a better value! I am using a Caterpillar Oil Test Kit, $20.00, Kit Bottle/Postage to Lab/Report.
Great. Let me know the results. The ESP oil has lower ash so will prolong the life of the particulate filter.
As I mentioned our Sprinter is a 2017 Chassis with a 2018 Pleasureway Class B RV. When I bought it about 8 months ago, it had 3,200 miles on it, so I had the "B Service" even though it wasn't due. Now at 13,400 miles, I decided to change only the Oil and have it Tested to determine the Oil Change Interval. At this point I'll probably change the Oil/Filter every 20,000 miles and just the Oil every 10,000 Miles. I've spent over 50 years in the Diesel Truck/Construction Equipment Industries as a Regional/District Service Managers, so I've seen a fail amount of GOOD/Bad Maintenance Practices. IMO, I would rather error on the side of "Over Kill," rather than on the "Wish I did" side, there no down side! As for what Oil to use? I would recommend any oil that meets MB standards , but if it is available, I prefer the MB Brand because of the unquestionable quality and the fact that it stated on the Receipt, which will, benefit in the resale value. I noticed that Mobil 1 for example has 36 different Oils (all Mobile 1) but only one of them meets the 5W30 and the 229.52 Spec!
Not sure I could wait 20K, lol. I think i'd hit like 10-15k and just change it. I too was brought up on the 3,000 mile changes.
I have the 5 cylinder Sprinter and after reading reports and with past experience with Shell oils; my thought is to use the Shell T6 5W40 or 0W40. The additive package Shell uses is better than Mobil for Diesel engines. The 0W40 (I live in Chicago winters) is superior to 5W40 but the cost is much higher and availability is spotty for the T6 0W40. I can tell the difference in winter cold with using the 0W40; the motor starts and runs from cold much easier. With 185K miles I am not using any oil with the recommended 10K mile oil changes. Planning on having the oil tested on the next change.
Excellent and informative video, thank you!
Thanks. It’s hard to break away from that 3k mile oil change mentality that was drilled into me most of my life. I might not be brave enough to go 20k but at least I’m comfortable getting closer to that now.
I know what you mean. However I have 40 years experience testing and specifying lubricants as a design engineer, so my experience says testing based data is better.
@@ontheroadwithron2432
But you don't have 400k on your Sprinter and you don't have any feedback from fellow expediters with 400k - 700k . Those are some REAL stories , with no Blackstone BS.
3k, 10k, 20k. All worthless numbers without an oil sample test at different ranges to see what the limit to your specific oil, engine and driving style are. What's good for him still at 20k driving highway, might be already filled with soot and depleted additives by 10k to you from driving more in the city, dusty roads, short trips, oil type/viscosit, diesel amount in oil etc. Run next oil change 5k, do an oil test. Another at 7k. If all good, again at 10k. Don't go by ear on these, you're most likely throwing away brand new oil
I've sampled my oil with the same lab 3 times on the first oil and once on the second oil change. Same results (except the Nickel, Mine is at "2") 2qts added on the first 20K and 0qts nearing 40K Thanks for the video. I am satisfied that using the MB 229.52 oil is fine to 20K
Change the oil every 10k not 20k thank me later
@@satt4603 Every 20K is fine. Did you not watch the video?
Ron just purchased a 2012 Sprinter Cargo 170 ext for my business. Been looking on info about what oil to use and because of your videos I'm going to use the ESP formula. It's expensive but I feel worth it in the long run. The oil now is super black and I believe it was always serviced at a Jiffy Lube type place which just used the regular 5W-40 synthetic oil. You also answered my thoughts about having to prime the fuel filter before starting the engine. It's my first Mercedes and diesel so everything is sort of overwhelming since it's so different.
snackman yes, the regular oil will fill up the DPF filter faster since a small amount of oil is always burned in the engine. Filter is expensive to replace.
Thanks always learning something. Much appreciated.
Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5W-40 Heavy Duty
The seal number in the picture appears to be missing the last character (1) for a complete part number. Also, can't find that 13mm clamp on Europarts. could you post the part number. Keep the videos coming, have enjoyed everyone. Only Mercedes would require three additional parts besides the filter in order to correctly change the fuel filter. I have an old GL450 so I know what it takes to keep it maintained. Just purchased a Thor Compass on the MBS chassis.
my goodness i was changing oil on my sprinter every 5k miles good to know to change oil @ 20k miles saves me some money
I have a 2018 Winnebago Mercedes Sprinter - I recommend to change the oil every year - because combustion creates water !
That’s true however the oil temps in a diesel engine are very hot and any water will evaporate quickly once up to temperature. If you only drive a few miles at a time, i agree an annual oil change would be best. RVs are usually driven long distances so not an issue.
amsoil will protect much better being 100% synthetic. God bless Ron.
2:32 it's not that hard to reuse the existing MB Clic clamp, or replace with new. There is a $15 tool if you search Clic or Clic-R. That way the tension on the hose if perfect. 2:41 the MB bulletin says the clamp is to be torqued 3Nm with new seal always if disturbed, clean and dry reinstalled.
Thanks for the raw data from this report! This brings up a question which is pertinent to us. We have a 2011 Winnebago-built MB Sprinter chassis-based RV similar to the View 24V (2012 Itasca Reyo 25T). The recommendations in our manual are for servicing (A & B) are 10,000 miles/1 year rather than the 20,000 miles/2 years for later models. In your discussion, you seem to indicate that this is because of the technological advance of oils over the years. Our suspicion is when we buy the oil from the Mercedes-Benz dealer it is the same as you use. That is also probably true of the other parts like oil and air filters. We do have a generation of the 3L Turbodiesel that also runs on DEF. Has there been an upgrade in the engine from 2011 to 2015 that would preclude us from also having the service period at 20,000 miles/2years? The dealer would have a conflict of interest if asked that question as they would rather sell product twice as much. We also did have an oil analysis done by a lab in Salt Lake City through an NRVIA inspector we hired two years ago when we bought our RV. The test also turned out fine.
You ask good questions. I don't have any inside info on the engine design changes, but as an engineer, I know that constant improvements are typical in big companies. I think you are stuck with the 10K interval unless you want to take the responsibility. Another data point is Mobil 1 advertises 20K intervals with their "Ultimate" brand oil. They have done testing to back it up. Of course you can't use the Ultimate as it doesn't meet the MB spec for low ash. Personally, I'd take a sample at 10K and see the results before doing the change. My guess is the oil will be fine.
@@ontheroadwithron2432 Will do. Expect follow-up in about a year .
Good info - thank you. Can you post the part number for the rubber seal? I am currently at around 16K miles on my 2019 View 24J.... will be doing the fuel filter once I hit 20K miles. Thanks. I change my oil yearly... typically, I drive around 12K miles per year. It's easy and relatively inexpensive and I recycle the used motor oil.
I added it to the description. Most people wait to 30K to change fuel filter unless you use a lot of Biodiesel. Cheers.
Oil was changed 1 year ago. The level is perfect on the dipstick, but very dirty. Initial thought is to change it but it’s nowhere near the 20,000 mile mark. More like 4,000 miles. New to Diesel engines. Does the color at all indicate the need for a change?
Sorry if you already answered this, but I could not find it. What does it cost to have the oil analyzed and how long did it take. Any Tks for all the good videos
hammer r it was around $30 and took 3weeks
Mr. Ron - your videos are beyond helpful - you're a hoot! I will definitely do my own maintenance on my 2019 sprinter, but my local MB dealer would not reset the service lights and I haven't found a you tube video that yet explains how to do this on the latest German tech. Can you help in that area? Your C-19 video was great as well. (I'm a conspiracy theorist, so don't buy into all this media enginered hyper hysteria) YMMV
Resetting the Service B.
ruclips.net/video/wC9FwBCRtII/видео.html
Thanks Ron! Although I have a 19VD I have put over 11,000 miles on it since we got it in November. Its just hard for me to think the oil will go 20,000. My schedule A is due in 9000 miles and I have regularly checked the oil. It did tell me to add a quart about a month ago, and I followed the directions and all seems to be well. Thanks for your update! What was the fumoto valve part number you added to your RV. I want to put that on when I change the oil with the Schedule A. Thanks again!
Great video,
I drive a 2017 3500 MB sprinter. It currently have 17k miles. Yesterday it asked me to add oil, when I checked I had below minimum mark. I am wondering if it came low from dealer when new or if it is burning it...
RamRunner mine only burned a quart in about 15-20k.
Thanks for another great video I was wondering what kind of fuel mileage you get and how hard was it pulling the passes in the Rockies
Rockies were no problem. Steepest parts in 3rd gear and 50 mph.
I average 15.2 mph. This is at 60-65 mph
Thanks good to know. Now I won’t worry too much about it. Taking a little trip next week to the Olympic forest up on the NE corner of Washington. A little shake down run after fixing (at least I hope) a boost leak problem. Thanks again maybe we will see you on the road sometime
Hi Ron, I only put around 3K every year on my 2016 sprinter, do you think it’s okay if I change oil every 20K instead of annually? Thanks for the effort putting these video, it helps a lot of people save money.
the oil change for a 2016 is every 2 years or 20K miles whichever comes first. So you can go 2 years unless you have some extreme operating conditions. This synthetic oil is very stable and heat resistant, however contamination with dirt, soot and does eventually build up. 2 years is fine, any longer might be at a slightly higher risk.
Great video! I see that you're using 0W-30, yet my local MB dealership (and other sources) are recommending 5W-30. We use our van year-round, and driving in the mountains during the cold winter time temperatures makes me want to try 0W-30. I know this might also improve fuel efficiency. I was wondering what made you decide to go with 0W-30 and are you having any regrets? Thanks!
Not much difference in the 2 but I just got what was on sale at NAPA. No regrets either way.
Would like to know the same.
Mercedes are way to complex for me, glad you know what to do with them.
Hi Ron ! Great videos, you are a true engineer, mechanic and handyman !!! I was wondering if you tow a vehicle, or just go as is? Also, what is your percentage of boondocking vs. full hookups when you travel? If you don't mind me asking !? Grandpa Bruce-NJ (just retired)
Bruce Moore no tow. We move around a lot. We also hardly use full hookups. Do like to stay in state and national parks.
Taking on the task on changing the oil. What size oil filter wrench/socket did you use. 88mm 14 flute? Also, did you use a crush washer on the oil pan bolt?
Thanks.
Wrench sounds right. I changed the plug for a Fumoto valve. No crush washer
Thank you for the very informative video. I gotta ask, though - what is it you're blurring out on the shoulder of your t-shirt at the end of the video?
Sorry about that, that was an editing mistake that I screwed around with and finally gave up trying to fix.
Okay, that makes sense. Thanks again for your videos - I'm learning all kinds of stuff about my rig. Appreciate your work.
Did you use liqui moly CeraTec ever when u changed the oil any recommendations welcome
I don’t use any additives. The oil already has all the additives it needs for 25k miles of use.
I've ordered the supplies for my first oil change, but have one other question you might be able to answer. On my 2017 Sprinter I'm trying to decide if the gear shift indicator should be showing what gear I'm in at all times. When I downshift, it shows what gear I'm driving in, but if it shifts automatically, it doesn't indicate which gear, it just shows the D. I talked with a service manager who has a Mercedes truck and thinks it should work at all times, but wasn't sure. Wondering if I need to take it in for service or if I'm expecting more than it will do.
Sounds normal. The indicator doesn’t actually show what gear you’re in. It shows which gear is selected. Also if you downshift the indicator immediately shows which gear is selected, but the transmission may not actually downshift immediately. Sometimes there is a delay for example if you have been coasting for a while.
I own 5 Mercedes Diesels...oil change every 5K, don't kid your self if you care about longevity of your engine, simply cheap insurance.
Many people think the same as you. I am an engineer and rely on data for these type of decisions. My old oil testing by Blackstone Labs showed the oil was still good after 20k miles. I did it for 2 oil changes. Of course your experience may be different so go with what works for you.
You may want to redact all your personal info from the oil report.
Matthew Maurice thanks. I see I missed some of it
Need help with fix on check engine, DEF warning light 2014 MB Sprinter.
Great videos! What music are you using as a sound bed?
Helmut Schindler I get most of my music from Artlist. Just look for something that fits.
Good information as always. I struggle to find straight diesel when on the road. Any tips?
The Bio seems to be state dependent. Probably due to state regulations. Anyway, not sure how to totally avoid it. I don't consider it to be a big deal and don't go out of my way to avoid it. For example, I've used 3-4 tanks of it and just changed my fuel filter at 37K miles. I have not seen any drawbacks using it occasionally. My 20K miles oil analysis was also clean of any defects.
Hey Ron. Question for you. Is your AC unit much louder than the RVs around you? I have noticed that my 2014 Itasca Navion AC unit, which is a low profile unit, is much louder than all the RVs around me when camping. Your thoughts
6Haase yes mine is very loud both inside and outside. Too loud to sleep with it on. Going to look into some “hush” kits before next trip. New Mach 10 units are supposed to be much quieter.
Sir Ron, have you done a video on any refrigerator fan install like I see in video using the Titian vent fans for the outside vents. My 16 Navion has a severe air flow problem due to the gas flume pipe modification with sheet metal from top to bottom at level of top vents. Then they placed a horizontal board to attach the sheet metal. No air flow from bottom to top where my evaporators coil are. The mid level small fan is so loud and inefficient! Please help.
My 2016 had a shelf over the evaporator coils. I removed the shelf and added a small fan directly above the hot spot on the coils. This seems to work OK. Some people put 2 large fans on the outlet vent and that should help most cases. Currently working on a video of a 3 fan tray inside the fridge. Can't really comment on your unit as I don't know what it looks like.
On the Road with Ron Thanks, I have two shelf’s going across, one mid way, one bottom. . Just added Axel fans to vents themselves but I got to remove the shelf. The thin metal plate was installed after a plate size scorched burn mark was discovered looking for this factory installed humming high pitch fan. I going to post my install to but await your professional install. Have Navion 15 like your except round top cap with moon room.
@@bsoutdooradventures9541 I am currently adding 2 8" vent fans to help the air flow. Fridge got too hot in 100+ temps out in the desert.
@@ontheroadwithron2432 Ron, if your absorption cooling unit fails, would you consider switching to a compressor cooling unit instead? I believe NovaKool and Danfoss make conversion kits for RV ammonia absorption fridges. My 2009 View 24H (absorption fridge) seemed to struggle with keeping a constant temp vs my 2019 24V View has the compressor fridge and keeps a nice steady temp.
@@davidolson1242 yes, if fridge fails I would get the compressor type. Especially with my Lithium battery, No power concerns
Great Video WOW!
Hey Ron , I end up in using Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 instead of 5W-40 on 2009 Sprinter 3500 (view) , later realized that manul states I should have used Mobil 1 ESP 5W-40 - Do you think i need to get that replaced ? just thought of take a reference .
John Lonappan the oil weight is mostly for different ambient temps. The 5-30 should be fine especially in cooler weather. You can use the md229.52 oil for all these 6 cylinder motors.
Just ordered the turbo seal, Ron. Thanks for the tip. Did notice one video elsewhere in which the seal was sprayed with a sealant (silicon spray, I think) before installation. Is this recommended?
Mitch Miglis I would not do it. The spray might have been used to slip it on a little easier but it can also collect dust.
Do you need two different size hose clamps (13 &15 mm) for the fuel filter?
Tommy Monzon yes. The solid clamps don’t have a big adjustment range. You can buy them individually for
Okay, another question for you. Where is the battery charger located on our units? Is it separate from the Xantrex Inverter?
6Haase the battery charger is the progressive dynamics Inverter. It located under the bed on the J model. I believe it has a picture of a wizard on it.
Is it located under some wood? I cannot find mine.
@@itstimetorv yes, under the funny shapped carpeted section. Need to remove around 6-8 screws to get it up. Most wiring and pipes are under there.
Yeah, good luck with that. Timing chain and piston rings loves Long life Oil service. I'll stick with 10 000 km's. Thanks for the video anyway.
What do you think about going longer than the 1 year mark? I see that Mercedes recommends 1 year but I read information on these oils that they don't go bad in a one year time span. Did you do all your miles in 1 year?
I go 2 years. For my 2016 model, that is what the manual recommends. Older units were for shorter time periods. What’s your year?
Gotta remove the carbon an dirt ??
Normally soot is not a big problem. It does not cause engine wear. Even after 20k miles, my oil didn’t have any detectable quantity of dirt.
Going 20,000 miles between oil changes is senseless. Why?!
Factory recommendation.
maybe thats why you had alot of metal
I suspect the metal on the fiest oil change was from it being a new engine. Second oil change was better.
20000 is FAR TO LONG. 5000 is a max if you want to avoid engine damage no matter what type of oil you use
There are a lot of opinions of course but 20k is what Mercedes recommends. I’ve tested this at an independent labs and the oil is still good.
@@ontheroadwithron2432 I love how all these people see hard evidence but still deny it
Sprinter WILL EAT lots of oil at 200k , if you will be using 0w30 oil and change every 20k . So , go ahead .
( most people will never see 200k on their Sprinters )
Almost 400k on mine and STILL not eating any oil. ( 5w40 229.51 and 10k OCI)
I don'y expect to get that may miles on my RV, especially with the travel restrictions. Guy at the dealer had 400K on his also. He changed per mfg recommendations.
@@ontheroadwithron2432
Guy at dealership with 400k - is one story and that story needs to be tested for lie
I know close to 50 REAL stories from REAL owner , each with 400-800k .
You get the picture , like who was using what kind of oil and what OCI they had .
I've got feedback from owners who used 229.5 5w40 ( much better than 229.51 or let alone 229.52 that dealer uses)
Thanks for changing oil yourself and not letting deal to rip you off.
I suggest buy Xentry C4 - that thing can save you on your trip and will be paid off very quickly
Hello, thank you for tips. I wanna buy fuel filter, but Mercedes have three of them, which on I need to buy? Thank you 🙏🏻
1. Fuel Water Separator Filter Product ID: 642-090-63-52
2. Fuel Filter Product ID: 642-092-04-01
3. Fuel Filter Product ID: 642-092-02-01
Depends on the year and engine type. 6 or 4 cyl. Just tell them your info and they can look it up.
@@ontheroadwithron2432 2015, 6 cyl.
@@kostyaexodus i used this one. MANN-FILTER WK 820/15 Fuel Filter a.co/d/2JGF02W