I was looking at carbon fibre options and telling my wife how expensive cf is... She suggested I just lose weight myself, cheaper food bill and lighter overall combined weight... Win win!
Yep, I’ve taken 10lbs “off” my bike by riding loads during lockdown. Overall rolling mass down, no bike expense and I’m a load fitter. Weight weenies need to check their excess body-pounds before shedding bike-ounces at a silly cost. Ride more, smile more
My thoughts exactly. Only limitation with the plan is your body weight is sprung rather than unsprung. U can't lose unsprung mass without changing components.
Other weight saving options! Ditch 29” wheels and go back to 26”. Cut your break levers in half - you only use one finger, who needs a whole lever? Remove every other spoke from your wheels. Replace the air in your tires with helium. For you hardcore riders, consider stripping the paint from your frame and fork; and don’t forget to remove those heavy weight shift cable housings! (All kidding!)
@@devononair Work at a bike shop. Once had a customer come in to have their shifting adjusted. They had taken their drill to their bike and turned their frame into swiss cheese. We refused to touch the bike.
I don't go too crazy with weight savings, but it's good to keep an eye on the weight when changing components. One other area worth mentioning: drive train. When the cassette / chain needs to be replaced an higher tier is usually lighter
Tyres and tubes are the biggest weight saving vs. price vs performance. I went from 860g tyres and 250g tubes to 650g tubeless tyres with about 90g of sealant, that's 370g PER WHEEL and it's where it makes the most difference, rotating mass!
Gmbn: Dropper post the next best thing to the invention of the wheel. Gmbn: also, Imagine how much weight savings you’re getting out of no dropper post.
Strength Training. Starting Strength by Mark Rippetoe. if you're stronger all around then 2kg isn't noticeable. can have the lightest bike money can buy but if you aren't in top physical shape does it really matter?
If you run tubes consider tubolito. And care them for spares for anyone else. Do you ride with a backpack/ hip bag? What do you bring with you? Lightweight multitool and pump, etc. can also save some weight. Also think about gloves, helmet, protection, clothing, smartphone, GPS device, lights..
I recommend weighing the parts you have. Most parts for sale have a weight listed and you can see what parts are worth upgrading, and you might be surprised at what your current parts weigh. Use a kitchen scale for small parts and a luggage scale (that dangles the item from a strap) for frames, wheels etc. I thought a lighter bottle cage would be cost-effective, but, after weighing them, I realised a new set of pedals was a better place to put my money. I saved 190g by changing my pedals for just £45!
I saved 2,4kg on my dirtjumper just mainly from tyres, fork and other small stuff and Im not even done with upgrading. I used to have cheap components. (13,39kg down to 11kg)
The best way I made my bike lighter was being a bit humble and admitting I won't be doing any DH or Enduro anytime soon so having a high travel fork was a waste lol. I've seen people run way too much gear for what they need and that just adds weight
You are an excellent presenter Rich ! But I can't ride any bike now without a dropper - it is an essential part of any MTB IMHO. I had to put one on my fat bike too (I'm in Minnesota, USA - so we actually need those fat tires for 4 months every year !)
I'd never fit titanium bolts. They're not much of a weight saving but more importantly standard bolts are used because of certain shear factors. For example if you clipped a caliper on a log I'm sure you'd be much happier that the bolt holding it to the frame sheared rather than the frame itself breaking. 👍
How to save weight : Remove all those dumbass spokes, go. Brakeless, go frameless, go naked,shave, remove does shitty wheels, take of that fork,take of that shock, remove that drivetrain , remove the seat stay, take of your stem, go barefoot, use plastic bolts etc etc
Removing things is the cheapest way to save weight - in fact, it only costs you time! Is it dry and sunny? Remove your mudguards and valve caps. Remove spoke protector from the rear wheel, along with any reflectors. Trim the excess cable down to the minimum. Short ride? Remove your second bottle cage. How many tyre levers are you carrying? You need no more than two. How long is your chain? If it's loose when it's round the biggest gear combination, shorten it. Admittedly, these are small savings, but why carry extra weight you don't need?
Depends on your bike doesn't it. For those that have spent thousands then there isn't much scope to lighten it up. For everyone else - Tubeless setup (save 200g) Shimano XT or SRAM GX rear cassette (can save another 200g) Lighter cranks (can save 250g) Quality wheelset (Hunt Trail wides are 1,800g which can save up to 500g) Better fork. A Pike Select weighs 400g less than a Sektor for instance. All of the above will save you about 1.5kg, nearly 1kg of that is rotational mass.
is a 12,5kg bike good for xc mountain biking?It costs only 1000 euro and now i have a bike which weights 16kg and i want to buy it.Please tell me your opinion
Cool, I used to had a Balfa 2 step Fr. I bought it as my first "real" mtb for 300$. Ignoring the fact the frame was too small for me, brakes didn't work and rear wheel wobble all around, I loved it. There was something special about it. Also I was the only person in my country who had this bike brand. Thanks for bringing back memories.
Back in the 90's there was a special way of lightening components called "Drillium"...anyone remember that? Take a drill bit to your cranks? Brake levers? Etc. And OK for me, about 40lbs overweight I laugh at myself even considering lightening up my bike....
You missed some of the most obvious weight reduction upgrades- wow! Upgrade group components. Bottom to top tier cassettes is one of the most massive weight reductions. The same for cranks. Going from alloy or steel cranks to carbon is a massive change in weight. The chain! Again the difference between Sram NX and XO for example is huge. How did you not include these items? A good set of alloy rims is nearly as light as a carbon rim.
This has got to be done carefully but bolt drilling can save some weight for free. OK only a small amount but it is free. Get a very small drill and drill the end of the bolts. I have drilled most on my bike and not had a single failure.
Here's a thought. If you ride with a water bottle can you tell the difference from when it's full and when it's empty? I can't... A full 600ml bottle is nearly 1.5lbs.
That's surprising... Did you change just the frame? I''d be surprised if a full sus alu was lighter than a hardtail alu. I'm thinking your new bike had some lighter components, if it was indeed a completely new bike.
There's another way to loose some weight of the system and so on your clothing. What about some lycra skinsuit, lightweight XC/road helmet and XC shoes? 🤔
Hmm... that's a good point actually! I never usually think about the weight of my clothes! I think about the weight of my backpack and try to pack light tools and supplies. Maybe I should extend to my clothes. Lightweight bra? Shorten my shoe laces? Remove unnecessary buttons from my jacket? Remove pockets from my jersey?
@@devononair What you're talking about are really marginal gains 😆. But if you compare baggy shorts with a zipper etc. to roadie style lycra shorts made of much much lighter material, the weight saving can be way more significant than opting for carbon handlebars instead of alloy ones. And shoes, they can make a huge difference. Weight saving between low- and top-end shoe can go up to hundred or so grams, you have two of them and they're actually rotational mass, so to be able to compare them to some stationary weight (like the mentioned handlebars and such stuff) you'd have to multiple that saving PI (3,142...) times. And that difference is even greater if that low-end shoe is an enduro or downhill style one.
@@jeskli11 Haha, yes, very marginal gains indeed! You are right though. Lycra also makes you more aerodynamic. I just went through my backpack and realised I had unnecessary stuff in there, so I reckon I saved quite a few grams by removing them. I'm also looking at getting a better multi-tool instead of carrying separate, heavy tools, such as a chain tool.
No one has mentioned scrapping the paint off your carbon fibre frame and what ever else you have that's carbon fibre on your bike it takes about 80 grams off.
These are great suggestions ONLY if you ride relatively easy offroad terrain. In my book, the dropper post and tires are probably the last items I'd consider giving up for lighter weight. I'd go for a XO groupset if I can keep my favorite tires.
Going tubeless isn't the best way! There are lighter options like ultratubes (Revoloop, tubolito, pirelli) which are lighter, easier to maintain, also more puncture resistant than normal tubes and cheaper than set of tubeless tires, tubeless tape, sealant, valves and sometimes special pump...
If not racing MTB need not be too light. Go for durability instead of light weight cos we ride to keep fit so heavier bike same distance lose more weight cos use more calories!!!!
Everything functions properly ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Nothing was damaged in the box aside from a decal on the fork. The decal was missing a piece of a corner but I ended up peeling them off anyways. Assembly is easy BUT make sure you tune up the derailleurs. Both the front and rear need adjusting. I'd advise going to a bike shop but I opted out and put in 10+ hours with the help of RUclips. Ended up fraying a shifter cable but all in all I learned from the experience. The Brakes work well but the front caliper needs adjusting or at least mine did because the rotor was rubbing against the pads. Make sure you swap out the seat, grips, and pedals. For the short run you'll be fine though. I've read that this bike isn't built yet for hard trails but I just need it for the city. PA has some of the worst roads and being in a mountain this was a great choice. Worth the investment!
Seem to have stumbled on to a Roadie channel by mistake. Saving a few grams?!?, dump the dropper to save 400g! Fxake, maybe your baggy shorts are a bit too heavy for you, maybe a skin tight lycra bib would save some more weight? Pity all that mud you get in your tyre tread is so heavy too, maybe stay on the tarmac and avoid all that extra weight and friction.
I went tubeless and literally lost zero weight;if I had just put on the tire without anything else I would have lost weight but by the time you had in the sealant and the rim strip it's the same way as a tire and tubeand actually I could be lighter with a tube set up because I could run ultra light tires and ultra light tubesand if running tubes all I have to do is put a little bit of sealant in the tubes and now they seal themselves. Don't get me wrong I love my tubeless setup on my mountain bike but it is not lighter.
Do you know how much your bike weighs?
12kg and it’s an enduro bike
Insta-thansanga_sailo
-global mountainbiking network- my bike weight about your mom
I believe my bike is heavy with it's 16kg, but thnx to this weight I lost 10kg myself!
12 kgs
I was looking at carbon fibre options and telling my wife how expensive cf is... She suggested I just lose weight myself, cheaper food bill and lighter overall combined weight... Win win!
And she is right, as long as you end up a healthy weight. :D
Nick McCarthy best comment and most practical!
Yep, I’ve taken 10lbs “off” my bike by riding loads during lockdown. Overall rolling mass down, no bike expense and I’m a load fitter. Weight weenies need to check their excess body-pounds before shedding bike-ounces at a silly cost. Ride more, smile more
@@dewindoethdwl2798 true. Problem is if you are lighter rider and you wish to do some tricks on your bike :-)
My thoughts exactly. Only limitation with the plan is your body weight is sprung rather than unsprung. U can't lose unsprung mass without changing components.
Take the front wheel and and manual all the trails!
Its great specially for downhill
and and
Fill tires with helium.
S1mple Niko haha especially that
Curt Richardson float down. I like your thinking🤣
Other weight saving options! Ditch 29” wheels and go back to 26”. Cut your break levers in half - you only use one finger, who needs a whole lever? Remove every other spoke from your wheels. Replace the air in your tires with helium. For you hardcore riders, consider stripping the paint from your frame and fork; and don’t forget to remove those heavy weight shift cable housings! (All kidding!)
I've seen worse on the trails lol
Drill holes everywhere, remove your grips, cut your bars down, remove the saddle, only run a front brake, and run wheels without tyres! Hahaha
Run half the recommended air pressure! Less gas in the tire makes you lighter!
@@devononair Work at a bike shop. Once had a customer come in to have their shifting adjusted. They had taken their drill to their bike and turned their frame into swiss cheese. We refused to touch the bike.
Go Single speed! ditch that cassette, shifter and deraileur! Best weight saving hack
I don't go too crazy with weight savings, but it's good to keep an eye on the weight when changing components. One other area worth mentioning: drive train. When the cassette / chain needs to be replaced an higher tier is usually lighter
Tyres and tubes are the biggest weight saving vs. price vs performance. I went from 860g tyres and 250g tubes to 650g tubeless tyres with about 90g of sealant, that's 370g PER WHEEL and it's where it makes the most difference, rotating mass!
Congrats on 1.5 million! I hope one day my channel will be a fraction as good as yours!
Gmbn: Dropper post the next best thing to the invention of the wheel.
Gmbn: also, Imagine how much weight savings you’re getting out of no dropper post.
🤷♂️ They have their place but some people (the cross country crowd) don't need them!
@@gmbn biggest difference is rotational mass. 400g more mounted onto the frame arent that bad. But for pro xc every gramm counts i guess
Michael Schöch no I see people on e bikes shredding, and they’re like 50 pounds lol
@@lukegrady5357 ebike = moto, Rotational mass has no chance
I love the idea of a dropper post, but after seeing the price and weight, I think I'll just stick to a quick release seat clamp!
I used to not like rich, but now that he’s used to gmbn and has relaxed a little I think he’s a great presenter love the vids guys!
I've recently started putting dehydrated water in my water bottle, saving almost half a pound in weight! carbon, pah!
😂
Let’s be realistic for a minute though...even if my dropper post weighed twice as much as it does, I’d still have it! Best thing ever
Pro tip: ditch the seat post and derailleur, also brakes aren’t needed as they add unnecessary weight
Even tyres those things weight a lot!
Don’t forget to ditch the frame that thing weighs a lot
Also the grips and pedals, they weigh far to much. Just pull your cranks with your hands
Just ditch the bike and run you will be so fast
@@rabbitfighter9987 clearly ur a noob to mountain biking smh, whats the point of cranks huh? just go downhill and youll have no problems
Strength Training.
Starting Strength by Mark Rippetoe.
if you're stronger all around then 2kg isn't noticeable.
can have the lightest bike money can buy but if you aren't in top physical shape does it really matter?
But if you put on too much muscle you will be heavier and weight saving is only relevant for going up hill so that doesn't make sense.
I’ve got 6 more
-new frame
-new shock
-new fork
-new handlebars
- new wheel set
-new drivetrain
#newbike
Don’t tempt me
If you run tubes consider tubolito. And care them for spares for anyone else. Do you ride with a backpack/ hip bag? What do you bring with you? Lightweight multitool and pump, etc. can also save some weight. Also think about gloves, helmet, protection, clothing, smartphone, GPS device, lights..
Aliexpress, carbon and titanium gubbins. Been astonished by the quality so far, got my old Giant XTC down to 19lbs WITH dropper post
Rich you are an excellent addition to the GMBN team fit right in
I recommend weighing the parts you have. Most parts for sale have a weight listed and you can see what parts are worth upgrading, and you might be surprised at what your current parts weigh. Use a kitchen scale for small parts and a luggage scale (that dangles the item from a strap) for frames, wheels etc. I thought a lighter bottle cage would be cost-effective, but, after weighing them, I realised a new set of pedals was a better place to put my money. I saved 190g by changing my pedals for just £45!
Another way is to strip all of your bolts it helps you lose like 2 grams I always do it
What do you mean by strip the bolts?
Seatpost clamps are also a little detail, which could save a few grams. I´d recommend the Tune Schraubwürger!
I'm honestly surprised that a pre ride piss or a pre ride dump wasn't on here
Should have read between the lines as Rich got hungry by the end of the video
It's not rotational mass so not that important lmao
that canyon is looking siick damn
I saved 2,4kg on my dirtjumper just mainly from tyres, fork and other small stuff and Im not even done with upgrading. I used to have cheap components.
(13,39kg down to 11kg)
The best way I made my bike lighter was being a bit humble and admitting I won't be doing any DH or Enduro anytime soon so having a high travel fork was a waste lol. I've seen people run way too much gear for what they need and that just adds weight
What weight is considered light for an xc hardtail? 10kg and less?
This video was so helpful, thanks gmbn
Best GMBN video ever👍🏻
The best way to save weight is to lose some off your lockdown gut!
You are an excellent presenter Rich ! But I can't ride any bike now without a dropper - it is an essential part of any MTB IMHO. I had to put one on my fat bike too (I'm in Minnesota, USA - so we actually need those fat tires for 4 months every year !)
Can't wait to go riding later today
I'd never fit titanium bolts. They're not much of a weight saving but more importantly standard bolts are used because of certain shear factors. For example if you clipped a caliper on a log I'm sure you'd be much happier that the bolt holding it to the frame sheared rather than the frame itself breaking. 👍
True, but never rounding a bolt is worth itself 1000X in the workstand.
Great 👍. Always a pleasure watching this channel
I love your content keep it up 🇦🇺
🇦🇺
are you from Australia because i am
@@justshreditmtb6975 I'm from QLD what about urself
🇦🇺
🇦🇺
How to save weight :
Remove all those dumbass spokes, go. Brakeless, go frameless, go naked,shave, remove does shitty wheels, take of that fork,take of that shock, remove that drivetrain , remove the seat stay, take of your stem, go barefoot, use plastic bolts etc etc
Removing things is the cheapest way to save weight - in fact, it only costs you time! Is it dry and sunny? Remove your mudguards and valve caps. Remove spoke protector from the rear wheel, along with any reflectors. Trim the excess cable down to the minimum. Short ride? Remove your second bottle cage. How many tyre levers are you carrying? You need no more than two. How long is your chain? If it's loose when it's round the biggest gear combination, shorten it. Admittedly, these are small savings, but why carry extra weight you don't need?
Make yourself lighter!
Depends on your bike doesn't it. For those that have spent thousands then there isn't much scope to lighten it up. For everyone else -
Tubeless setup (save 200g)
Shimano XT or SRAM GX rear cassette (can save another 200g)
Lighter cranks (can save 250g)
Quality wheelset (Hunt Trail wides are 1,800g which can save up to 500g)
Better fork. A Pike Select weighs 400g less than a Sektor for instance.
All of the above will save you about 1.5kg, nearly 1kg of that is rotational mass.
This... this was great, new dude.
Seems like a great vid rich
is a 12,5kg bike good for xc mountain biking?It costs only 1000 euro and now i have a bike which weights 16kg and i want to buy it.Please tell me your opinion
Really good tips! Some of them are quite expensive though 😂
You see fit and healthy and my bike is not to heavy enough it’s a balfa bb7 DH bike it’s just I’m stuck on the sofa😅😂
Cool, I used to had a Balfa 2 step Fr. I bought it as my first "real" mtb for 300$.
Ignoring the fact the frame was too small for me, brakes didn't work and rear wheel wobble all around, I loved it. There was something special about it.
Also I was the only person in my country who had this bike brand.
Thanks for bringing back memories.
Yeh the balfa was my first real bike and I bet I’m the only in Australia that has one 😅😂
The frame was scratched
Superb Intro!
u guys should do how to 1 hand wheelie for the more intermediate riders trying to 1 up their wheelies!!
you dont need lighter bike,
you need to get strong.🤣🤣
Top tip. Spend a gazillion pound on carbon & titanium to get a lightweight bike..... 10 out of 10 for listing the obvious 👏👏👏
And how much does it weigh when you sit on it?
Can’t wait for this awesome video
Great vid🤘🏻
Back in the 90's there was a special way of lightening components called "Drillium"...anyone remember that? Take a drill bit to your cranks? Brake levers? Etc.
And OK for me, about 40lbs overweight I laugh at myself even considering lightening up my bike....
You missed some of the most obvious weight reduction upgrades- wow! Upgrade group components. Bottom to top tier cassettes is one of the most massive weight reductions. The same for cranks. Going from alloy or steel cranks to carbon is a massive change in weight. The chain! Again the difference between Sram NX and XO for example is huge. How did you not include these items? A good set of alloy rims is nearly as light as a carbon rim.
And a good set of carbon rims is even lighter. Especially xc stuff, enduro carbon wheels can be relatively heavy
This has got to be done carefully but bolt drilling can save some weight for free. OK only a small amount but it is free. Get a very small drill and drill the end of the bolts. I have drilled most on my bike and not had a single failure.
Titanium quick release skewers, I got some, they look cool.
Here's a thought.
If you ride with a water bottle can you tell the difference from when it's full and when it's empty? I can't...
A full 600ml bottle is nearly 1.5lbs.
the saddle can still be supplied with carbon)
Yes mate
I went from a 19 inch aluminium hard tail to a 15.5 inch aluminium full suspension and lost 3 kilos.
That's surprising... Did you change just the frame? I''d be surprised if a full sus alu was lighter than a hardtail alu. I'm thinking your new bike had some lighter components, if it was indeed a completely new bike.
I could probably get lighter on my bike by getting a different rider... wait.
GMBN humour is just funny
I’ve just gone single speed on my transition that’s the easiest way
Very tempting!
Foam grips are a massive weight saving. That is an easy hundred grams for around 10-20 bucks.
100g! :o That's extraordinary! Surely not. I'm gonna weigh my grips now.
Making your bike lighter will make your wallet lighter as well.
Don’t ever question my dropper post again!!!
This is the earlyest i have ever been
what bike did you use in this video ?
Carbon brake fluid???
Rigid fork ftw
There's another way to loose some weight of the system and so on your clothing. What about some lycra skinsuit, lightweight XC/road helmet and XC shoes? 🤔
Hmm... that's a good point actually! I never usually think about the weight of my clothes! I think about the weight of my backpack and try to pack light tools and supplies. Maybe I should extend to my clothes. Lightweight bra? Shorten my shoe laces? Remove unnecessary buttons from my jacket? Remove pockets from my jersey?
@@devononair What you're talking about are really marginal gains 😆. But if you compare baggy shorts with a zipper etc. to roadie style lycra shorts made of much much lighter material, the weight saving can be way more significant than opting for carbon handlebars instead of alloy ones. And shoes, they can make a huge difference. Weight saving between low- and top-end shoe can go up to hundred or so grams, you have two of them and they're actually rotational mass, so to be able to compare them to some stationary weight (like the mentioned handlebars and such stuff) you'd have to multiple that saving PI (3,142...) times. And that difference is even greater if that low-end shoe is an enduro or downhill style one.
@@jeskli11 Haha, yes, very marginal gains indeed!
You are right though. Lycra also makes you more aerodynamic.
I just went through my backpack and realised I had unnecessary stuff in there, so I reckon I saved quite a few grams by removing them. I'm also looking at getting a better multi-tool instead of carrying separate, heavy tools, such as a chain tool.
Reinforced tubeless tyres + sealant weigh about as much as a clincher setup.
No one has mentioned scrapping the paint off your carbon fibre frame and what ever else you have that's carbon fibre on your bike it takes about 80 grams off.
Next video on how to make *yourself* lighter?
I love you guys !!
These are great suggestions ONLY if you ride relatively easy offroad terrain. In my book, the dropper post and tires are probably the last items I'd consider giving up for lighter weight. I'd go for a XO groupset if I can keep my favorite tires.
Yep! This is aimed at the XC whippets looking to save a few grams 🤘
Going tubeless isn't the best way! There are lighter options like ultratubes (Revoloop, tubolito, pirelli) which are lighter, easier to maintain, also more puncture resistant than normal tubes and cheaper than set of tubeless tires, tubeless tape, sealant, valves and sometimes special pump...
If not racing MTB need not be too light. Go for durability instead of light weight cos we ride to keep fit so heavier bike same distance lose more weight cos use more calories!!!!
FACT:
There can only be one first comment not ten
Then explain why theres ten first comments
This was nice to know 🤩
Glad we could help!
Question, is it right to get a 29er size 19” MTB and my height is 5’6”, thanks for answering
No man. I'm 5 foot 10 with a size medium which is around a 17-18 inch.
mikey roberts thanks for the reply, by the way what size can you recommend to me in 29er?
Since I already have the frame can I put on the 27.5 wheels? Can you sell to me a 2nd hand MTB hardtail?
Id also make an argument that savning weight off yourself will make the biggest difference😉
Here’s a great weight saving: throw the bike out the window and just dont bother about the weight, cash etc.
Good vid 👍
how about a smaller chainring or oval chainring?
Or maybe how to make the rider lighter! Lol 😂 during Covid I think We need to lose some weight now.
Good information buddy 👍✌️ Kochin bicycle buddies 🤘
Bijo Joseph Thanks mate 🤘
Everything functions properly ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Nothing was damaged in the box aside from a decal on the fork. The decal was missing a piece of a corner but I ended up peeling them off anyways. Assembly is easy BUT make sure you tune up the derailleurs. Both the front and rear need adjusting. I'd advise going to a bike shop but I opted out and put in 10+ hours with the help of RUclips. Ended up fraying a shifter cable but all in all I learned from the experience. The Brakes work well but the front caliper needs adjusting or at least mine did because the rotor was rubbing against the pads. Make sure you swap out the seat, grips, and pedals. For the short run you'll be fine though. I've read that this bike isn't built yet for hard trails but I just need it for the city. PA has some of the worst roads and being in a mountain this was a great choice. Worth the investment!
where do i get those chubless tires????
If you can't afford carbon wheels, just remove about half of your spokes to shave off some of that extra weight 👍
Ditch your fork lock out switch and cable. Never use it anyway.
Top 3 weight savings: Dropper post, grips
Honorable mention: *TUB-*
Needed to shave some weight off my bike ;)
I think GMBN failed the math test, that were just 5 ways!
Seem to have stumbled on to a Roadie channel by mistake. Saving a few grams?!?, dump the dropper to save 400g! Fxake, maybe your baggy shorts are a bit too heavy for you, maybe a skin tight lycra bib would save some more weight? Pity all that mud you get in your tyre tread is so heavy too, maybe stay on the tarmac and avoid all that extra weight and friction.
Then theres us freeriders that are happy with an enduro under 34lbs and a dh under 40
Lose fat and getting stronger is better than losing bike weight
Drillium. Nothing like speed holes for speed
U ride a 27.5 ??
Choobes! Leavers! Make it Ligh'er!
i like how i bought a cheap mtb but i only goes for road most of the time
So far I shed 2.23 pounds and looking to convert my 2x to 1x
I went tubeless and literally lost zero weight;if I had just put on the tire without anything else I would have lost weight but by the time you had in the sealant and the rim strip it's the same way as a tire and tubeand actually I could be lighter with a tube set up because I could run ultra light tires and ultra light tubesand if running tubes all I have to do is put a little bit of sealant in the tubes and now they seal themselves. Don't get me wrong I love my tubeless setup on my mountain bike but it is not lighter.
50ml tubeless sealant is lighter than a tube. If you use a dh tube the difference can be pretty big