73 Honda CB750 Custom Build Episode 10 - Forged Aluminum Connecting Rod Installation
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- Опубликовано: 9 фев 2025
- Forged aluminum connecting rods and what it takes to install them. Support Hack A Week with a donation: hackaweek.com/h...
Thanks for watching and keep on hackin!
I'm doing a 72 right along with you. Fortunately Mine was a complete bike. It has been parked in a barn since 1982.
Great videos. It's a giant pain in the rear, but so worth it when you turn her over for the first time:)
awesome way of finding the center of the bearing, good improvising
You're making me miss my '78 CB750 - and me with no pics to show off the brag. Cheers, and keep hackin' away. S!
So fun watching these videos. 30 minutes goes by so fast. And cool ringtone.
I guess it's too late now... but years ago when I installed an 836cc kit into my 72 750 I got to talk to Pops Yoshimura about the forged connecting rods. He was adamant about putting heavy tape on the edges during assembly so they don't knock onto the crankcase and leave a mark. It weakens the rod. Had a BSA engine builder tell me the same thing.
Another great video, great info! I wish I lived close to you so I could come help. You have inspired me to start my own project. Thanks Dean!!!
Dean you are a Jedi mechanic...
Respect
Use lube wax on the sanding drum. It will keep it from loading up, cut quicker and much smoother.
Wow...one the BEST How To Vids I have seen in a long time......GREAT JOB.....
Nice to see the engine coming together. Good luck with it!
Thanks for this I've never done a build and I would miss so many small pieces just following the shop manual!
I turned the engine upside down with the lower rcase off and you can look at the fit .You can hold the cylinder with cut tubing and head nuts or bolt the head on.But you will get it done your way too. Good luck
Nice video this week! As an automotive engineer, I absolutely love this show. More next week, hopefully! :D
You could just take a few measurements and use a CAD program to find out (almost exactly) how much material needs to be removed.
Or just draw it out in a 1:1 scale. Al you realy need is de scize of the skirts and how deep they mount, and then de depth at wich the crankshaft rotates. After that an outline of the rods and the stroke length should be enough. Just don't forget to take in acount the width of the rods in relation to the bore.
Props for showing methods that didn't work so well (i.e., paint maker). A lesser man would hide his mistakes. :)
As always, outstanding video. You have a real way of simplifying things in your explanations that make it nice for us watching your videos.
Always learning something!
I really liked your videos, I have a K6 like yours, I understand that you have put a silent 4 in 1, that you do not put the rubbers of the s steering bars, but I have missed hearing how your motorcycle sounded. Still your job is very good
yes I like your ringtone too! Cant wait till next week!
Hey you're drinking Sierra Nevada Pale! My favorite beer! Cheers!
ไฟไม่มาหัวเทียนCB750customขอขั้นตอนการเช็คคับ
wow! lots of precision and calculations i see
Great vid. Some really good info in there that I am trying to take in :) Exciting to see it all come together
My father got a 76 honda shadow 750 we rebuild the engine with stock part .
We keep everything stock cause we have the bike with full origine part .
those rods look like they may have been "shot blasted"; i wonder if it might be a good idea to retreat the areas where you modified them? does your manual have the service bulletins included? i think the weight code requirement was relaxed a bit after the printing and those rods would have been acceptable as was. i believe there was a bulletin about replacement
parts to that effect.
these videos saved my bacon
Addicted.
Thank you.
hello ........ your videos are spectacular, I'm inspiring you, I would like information on what kind of bushings you used for the aluminum connecting rods, thanks
check the end to end weight on rod plus you did'nt keep the rod pushed down tight to check clearance with plastigage.MPO
Dont forget to include the mm of the gasket! Like your video's!
This is a very good reminder. +1
enjoy your shows and learn much.
Semper Fi USMC Ret Pensacola Fl
Question - im enjoying these videoes, thanks for sharing.
Im not understanding why the con rods are not clearing the cylinder sleeves, also not understanding the hole drilled in the bearing shell ? Im assuming these modifications are required as both con rod and shell are incorrect and the actual parts cannot be sourced ? Im probably missing something crucial here ? Thanks.
The con rods are a wider dimension nearest the crank shaft. As the crankshaft rotates they would hit the cylinder sleeves if the weren't clearanced. At 6:45 I clearly explain why I drilled the hole in the bearing shell for the alignment pin. The stock rods don't have a pin. I used aluminum rods because they are lighter weight allowing the engine to spin up in RPMs a bit quicker.
@@HackaweekTV Thanks yes I understand your own procedure, I just dont understand why not just fit stock.
Also is the k4 engine interchangeable with a 1978 k7, ? I have 1978 k7 but I have a chance to buy a k4 engine, will it fit ?
You will have to balance rotating assembly because rods are quite a bit lighter.
You'd be an awesome neighbor. Are there two wrist pin clips per piston? Should you check the skirt clearances with a gasket or o-ring in place?
Will Willwill two circlips for each gudgeon pin otherwise they would start touching the cylinder bore
I wonder where is the gasket for the engine cover?
No gasket, just sealer.
Jesus, I feel bad. I've got one of those bolts laying around. Could have saved you all the trouble with the aluminum connecting rods.
Very good working
Do you still have that red cb750 in the back ?
Really good video !
Sierra Nevada!
The new connection rod bolt's aren't stretch bolts i presume?
Great job!
Whos your tandem partner? do you have a video of that bike? It looks like a cool one!
I'm curious as to a strength, dimensional value if high iron content steel cast rod weight versus the hot press beer can material
Cool ass T-Shirt...!!
For the weight saved against cost & time was it really worth it ? Thanks for a great Tech Vid looking forward to the next one, Great Work, Well Done!
Hi there,
I did not get the reason why you went for new rods in your videos. If you've mentioned it somewhere would you tell me in which video it was?
+Reza Farahipour He couldn't find bolts for OEM con rods.
Hello from Belgium , the rods are what brand?is it ok for CB900 ?
i have a 1983 Honda Hawk 250cc bike recently bought from first owner, so let me know how to pick up engine furthermore..
What made you really want to rebuild the engine? Was it because you couldn’t be sure what thenlast guy did or didn’t do? Or you just wanted to do a full rebuild?
Where did you get the forged Rods?
Thanks for posting.
Running next week?? ;)
no he's got a while before the bike actually runs
Do you have to worry about gasket widths when checking clearance ?
Not really. If you use gasket goo / rtv then you'll have no real appreciable difference, and if you used a metal or composite gasket it'd bring the bores upwards therefore making larger clearance. So yeah, not really.
Samuel Corbett Ah.
very good
I wonder... in a 4 cylinder engine why don't they make each connecting road 90 degrees out of "fase" with the next. So That every 90 degrees you would have a piston firing? Would it distort the cam shaft over time? Whats the reason?
maxsnts Better power output and better balance.
look up 2009- present yamaha r1 , it uses a crossplane crank , sounds like a nascar at full tilt
If you lighten the rods ,you need to balance the crankshaft .
Dale olson with a inline 4 with a flat plane crank aka 180 degrees between firing the crank is Zero balanced. The outer 2 cylinders counter balance the inner 2 cylinders. So as long as your bob weight stays the same across all 4 holes it's balanced.
love the shirt
He said "casting flashing" on his FORGED rods HAHAHAHAH LOL!
Grinding on aluminum can be dangerous. Do not allow the powder to pile up due to it's explosive/incendiary nature. Proceed with caution.
Love your videos, highly recommend them.
How many miles did this engine have on it at the time you were working on it?
Thank you,
Dylan W
He never seems to respond, but he does provide way more information than the average DIYer
Casting flash ?? PARTING LINE !! There is no casting in a forged rod lmao😂 nice vid tho!
You have to lighten your crankshaft. Because the rod are lighter. Ask your engine builder.
i think on a flat plane crank it doesn't matter , because there are no counter weights . Its more important that the pistons and rods are close as possible . On a crossplane crank like a your average v8 or v6 yes you have to get the crank balanced
good
Still missing shamus :)
Could damage engine without taking this step.
q pais e esse? amigo
He's based in America
why not leave the bottom case off and put the engine upside down you can see the rods for sure. I do this all the time, you don't need the trans in the case either
johnnym1320 Excellent suggestion! I'll have to try that. Thanks!
Looking forward to the build
Agreed. That's the technique we used when I worked at a Honda Dealership. If nothing else, being able to see a little more provides one with an added boost of confidence before making the modification.
If those are forged connecting rods, there shouldn't be cast lines on them......maybe those are left over machining lines?
TxGamer13 lmao it's called a parting line, when forging the 2 dies don't touch each other that's where the excess material squishes out.
Nick Holm Oh ok cool, thanks for the info!
No cam chain
Have to... FIRST!!!
empirical will never be more accurate than metric ;)
Imperial.
you're an idiot
do you really think that the US uses "imperial" measurements??? Are you dyslexic or just dumb?
They certainly don't use "empirical" measurements.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Imperial_and_US_customary_measurement_systems
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No he podido ver ningun video
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Sorry I have just watched vid 10!!!! very poor build, clunked rods will fail at high load, could he not bang that crank about any more and how about just putting cylinder and gasket onto top case and turn up side down and rest on timber blocks to keep cylinders tight then lower crank,rods and pistons into place and you can see impact areas. I have only been building these motors since the early seventies so what do I know and pops would turn in his grave God bless him.
what do you mean by clunked rods?
I have been cringing from the beginning of the series when he scraped the stuff over the concrete floor. These vids should certainly not be watched for: "this is how it should be done".
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