Very refreshing to hear a model railroader speak about the operation of steam locomotives even down to the positions on the H6 brake valve using the correct names and terms!
Thank you Jack for sharing the wealth of Experience that you’ve amassed over the Years that you’ve been modelling, another really interesting Video. I live in Britain and confess I too am mainly interested in Railways I knew as a Lad, but guess being in my seventies it goes with the Territory.
I have 2) 300W Hotips. 1 is for train building and 1 of for layout soldering. I solder all wires on my layout. Truly the best tool you can own. I have made many 1000s of solder joints.
The backhead/locomotive cab is awesome. I've seen another something similar to this on RUclips but it's an f unit diesel. Its much larger and you sit in it and look out the windshield and side window and it actually shows on screens all around you the layout where the train is running that you're controlling. So you are seeing just as a engineer would. It was neat and yours is really cool for the time period you built it in and is still cool for today's standards as well. 👍
Great episode again. I use a Weller WS81, with 80 Watts, I never had issue soldering my small On30 models. I put it to 350 °C normally, and go above if I need more power. Weller aren't cheap, but I was lucky to get mine for free (because it loose sometimes power, not a big deal for me). An important point that Jack didn't mentioned is to use the correct tip, bigger ones will conduct a lot more heat, so use the correct size one for what you are soldering.
Excellent video...Was wonderful to see some of the mysteries of soldering taught in such an easy going manner again and the demonstrations of the torches and resistance unit. Now, if I could get my head around getting my drawings to someone that understands two-level photo etchings... with the advent of digital cameras, it's getting difficult to find a dark-room or a print shop with the expertise and patience here in rural Southern Illinois... and I simply don't have any more room in my shop!
I worked on a rigging crew under a tack Crane. 1939 Cummings Deasel. We stacked 40ft steel plates for the production of liquid storage tanks. Oil milk water etc. That Crane was a work horse. Big yard switches and all.
Great information, Jack! That spool of solder is by Kester (the name's under the price tag). They make solder in different diameters (and types), and there are definitely times when the smaller size comes in handy.
Love your easy to watch (walking in through) and informative style. In case I missed it, wondering about the (head) lights on the crane. I'm assuming they're not actually illuminated; so if not, what material or paint did you use to get the lens effect?
The two leads of wire rope to one drum for the boom lift would be correct. It gave redundancy, if one lead broke it would keep the boom from crashing down, drag lines used the same set up. If you wanted to model the crane like it had been in recent use a wipe of a satin clear over the thread(wire rope) would give a minor sheen that the wire rope would pick up from use. The main lead to the block would pick up more sheen than the boom lift. It would have a minor sheen when new due to being oiled, rust inside wire rope was not good. When I was a child I knew a man who modeled drag lines he had operated in his youth. Some of them used thread for the wire rope, one I remember he actually twisted silver wire to make it, he showed me how he did it to get the twist right, not that complicated but hard to explain. Great job on the model of the crane!
Those programs have been like a virtual bible on how to do things, even for me in faraway Sweden trying to model a granger out-and-back line with lots and lots of research going into it. Your videos are a huge source of inspiration! Regarding the strings; have you tried the bookbinders’ method of dragging it thruogh bees’ wax to get rid of the flocking? If so, what are your opinions on the results?
Thanks for the nice complements Johan! Regarding the strings, I thought of that when I was experimenting with other types of string but the material that I used didn't have an fuzz. Jack
@@yvfan Thanks a lot for your answer. Since the railroad I try to depict has a harbour (Hästholmen, by the lake Vättern, and in the end the Göta Canal) with lots of boat traffic, both freight and passenger steamers, and even sail schooners and the like, I do have the need to find good rigging for my models. So, the question is, where did you (or rather, your wife) find this ”non-flocking” thread? I don’t know whether this is a question you are allowed to answer here, but I think you do understand my quest for ever better materials for my building projects. /Best regards, Johan
Johan...Sorry to take so long to get back to you but I only read comments once a month. Here is a link to Amazon where my wife bought the thread: smile.amazon.com/Upholstery-Outdoor-Drapery-Beading-Luggage/dp/B01C26BBI4/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=bonded+nylon+thread+size+150d%2F3&qid=1604247551&sr=8-3 You will need to copy/past the link. Jack
Wish I could find someone with his expertise that would be willing to fix a locomotive. Inherited a couple of my grandfathers HO brass locomotives recently, and while I'm not new to models or model railroading, i am new to brass.
Good stuff. Though my days of working with brass are well behind me and soldering is something I'll do if I have to these days. I know my limitations. A note for Jack, a little late, but you never asked so here it is any ways. A fellow modeler named Luke Towan removes those pesky bits from his thread (because no matter how small, the eyes are drawn to them), I'll cue the video to start with this information, but I recommend you watch all of it as there is good stuff for building agricultural truck loads in this one and all you need would be earlier period vehicles; ruclips.net/video/vJmh6BOeeSo/видео.html . -- Oh, I almost forgot; I love your Yosemite Valley RR. Though it has little in common with my Arizona themed railroad, and its a steam era thing, I love your attention to detail and the fact you take time to make things you do have a history and make sense in doing them; that is what makes for a great railroad. Cheers.
Thanks John. I have to tell you that when you look at the model from normal viewing distances you can't see any of the fuzzies. They only show up on the video because the close ups are really close. :) Thanks for your continued support!
Sparky...Yes, it was the cover article in the October 1975 issue of RMC. I received $400 for that article! I used part of it to purchase my precision drill press that I mentioned in the very first video. Jack
Excellent video presentation and production! Thank you.
Thanks jack, very useful tips!
thank you for super detailed video as true great watching every time
Very refreshing to hear a model railroader speak about the operation of steam locomotives even down to the positions on the H6 brake valve using the correct names and terms!
Very good video, Jack.
Jackhas some really neat gadgets for soldering!
I just watched all your episodes in the last week or so . You are an amazing person !true Renaissance man...
the model looks great jack
Another great episode
Very helpful information...THANKS!
Really enjoyed this video, truly impressed. Thanks for all you do to make the hobby great.
Nice video, I like the old photographs being included
Great tips on the topic about Brass
Glad you liked it!
Thank you Jack for sharing the wealth of Experience that you’ve amassed over the Years that you’ve been modelling, another really interesting Video. I live in Britain and confess I too am mainly interested in Railways I knew as a Lad, but guess being in my seventies it goes with the Territory.
I have 2) 300W Hotips. 1 is for train building and 1 of for layout soldering. I solder all wires on my layout. Truly the best tool you can own. I have made many 1000s of solder joints.
Thanks for sharing!
The backhead/locomotive cab is awesome. I've seen another something similar to this on RUclips but it's an f unit diesel. Its much larger and you sit in it and look out the windshield and side window and it actually shows on screens all around you the layout where the train is running that you're controlling. So you are seeing just as a engineer would. It was neat and yours is really cool for the time period you built it in and is still cool for today's standards as well. 👍
Great episode again. I use a Weller WS81, with 80 Watts, I never had issue soldering my small On30 models. I put it to 350 °C normally, and go above if I need more power.
Weller aren't cheap, but I was lucky to get mine for free (because it loose sometimes power, not a big deal for me).
An important point that Jack didn't mentioned is to use the correct tip, bigger ones will conduct a lot more heat, so use the correct size one for what you are soldering.
Excellent video...Was wonderful to see some of the mysteries of soldering taught in such an easy going manner again and the demonstrations of the torches and resistance unit.
Now, if I could get my head around getting my drawings to someone that understands two-level photo etchings... with the advent of digital cameras, it's getting difficult to find a dark-room or a print shop with the expertise and patience here in rural Southern Illinois... and I simply don't have any more room in my shop!
I worked on a rigging crew under a tack Crane. 1939 Cummings Deasel. We stacked 40ft steel plates for the production of liquid storage tanks. Oil milk water etc. That Crane was a work horse. Big yard switches and all.
Great information, Jack! That spool of solder is by Kester (the name's under the price tag). They make solder in different diameters (and types), and there are definitely times when the smaller size comes in handy.
Love your easy to watch (walking in through) and informative style. In case I missed it, wondering about the (head) lights on the crane. I'm assuming they're not actually illuminated; so if not, what material or paint did you use to get the lens effect?
The two leads of wire rope to one drum for the boom lift would be correct. It gave redundancy, if one lead broke it would keep the boom from crashing down, drag lines used the same set up. If you wanted to model the crane like it had been in recent use a wipe of a satin clear over the thread(wire rope) would give a minor sheen that the wire rope would pick up from use. The main lead to the block would pick up more sheen than the boom lift. It would have a minor sheen when new due to being oiled, rust inside wire rope was not good.
When I was a child I knew a man who modeled drag lines he had operated in his youth. Some of them used thread for the wire rope, one I remember he actually twisted silver wire to make it, he showed me how he did it to get the twist right, not that complicated but hard to explain.
Great job on the model of the crane!
Those programs have been like a virtual bible on how to do things, even for me in faraway Sweden trying to model a granger out-and-back line with lots and lots of research going into it. Your videos are a huge source of inspiration!
Regarding the strings; have you tried the bookbinders’ method of dragging it thruogh bees’ wax to get rid of the flocking? If so, what are your opinions on the results?
Thanks for the nice complements Johan! Regarding the strings, I thought of that when I was experimenting with other types of string but the material that I used didn't have an fuzz.
Jack
@@yvfan Thanks a lot for your answer. Since the railroad I try to depict has a harbour (Hästholmen, by the lake Vättern, and in the end the Göta Canal) with lots of boat traffic, both freight and passenger steamers, and even sail schooners and the like, I do have the need to find good rigging for my models. So, the question is, where did you (or rather, your wife) find this ”non-flocking” thread? I don’t know whether this is a question you are allowed to answer here, but I think you do understand my quest for ever better materials for my building projects.
/Best regards, Johan
Johan...Sorry to take so long to get back to you but I only read comments once a month. Here is a link to Amazon where my wife bought the thread:
smile.amazon.com/Upholstery-Outdoor-Drapery-Beading-Luggage/dp/B01C26BBI4/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=bonded+nylon+thread+size+150d%2F3&qid=1604247551&sr=8-3
You will need to copy/past the link.
Jack
If anyone else is doing something similar, wax the thread with bees wax to get rid of the fuzziness of the thread, or get a glazed cotton thread.
Wish I could find someone with his expertise that would be willing to fix a locomotive. Inherited a couple of my grandfathers HO brass locomotives recently, and while I'm not new to models or model railroading, i am new to brass.
I know a guy. facebook.com/prospectormodels/
@@tsgmultimedia thanks a bunch, I will check them out. Really enjoying learning from these videos, by the way. Keep up the great work!
Good stuff. Though my days of working with brass are well behind me and soldering is something I'll do if I have to these days. I know my limitations. A note for Jack, a little late, but you never asked so here it is any ways. A fellow modeler named Luke Towan removes those pesky bits from his thread (because no matter how small, the eyes are drawn to them), I'll cue the video to start with this information, but I recommend you watch all of it as there is good stuff for building agricultural truck loads in this one and all you need would be earlier period vehicles; ruclips.net/video/vJmh6BOeeSo/видео.html . -- Oh, I almost forgot; I love your Yosemite Valley RR. Though it has little in common with my Arizona themed railroad, and its a steam era thing, I love your attention to detail and the fact you take time to make things you do have a history and make sense in doing them; that is what makes for a great railroad. Cheers.
Thanks John. I have to tell you that when you look at the model from normal viewing distances you can't see any of the fuzzies. They only show up on the video because the close ups are really close. :) Thanks for your continued support!
so that steam loco was a controller? wow like wow.
For real. Just building that thing alone is impressive... but to have it connected and able to control a model on a layout is pretty mind blowing!
@@tsgmultimedia If I remember, it was featured in an issue of Model Railroad Craftsman many years ago.
@@JDsHouseofHobbies Yes I think Jack has mentioned it was the longest article he ever wrote for publication.
Sparky...Yes, it was the cover article in the October 1975 issue of RMC. I received $400 for that article! I used part of it to purchase my precision drill press that I mentioned in the very first video.
Jack
verwijder datr stuk asbest voor je eigen veiligheid. hier in europa zou men gek worden als men dit ziet.