No Heat One Burner Lighting, How to Diagnose. EP46
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- On arrival I found that only one burner was lighting and flame was running all the way back to the spud, This video is how to diagnose a furnace with only one burning lighting and making the repair. Check it out.
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"Alive" by CHOIX
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I have also had this problem with spiderwebs in the orifices and debris in the burners.
I'm not an HVAC guy but I have to say I really enjoyed watching this video. Your attention to detail, humility and self-deprecating nature make you a pleasure to watch and learn from.
That was a pretty sweet fine right there. I like to take a sharpie and mark the gas valve with my inches of water column. So that way there's no doubt in the future that valve has been set correctly. 😎👍
Great job very informative thanks for the video
Excellent video
Good diagnosis and a good job. As a retired technician I understand totally what’s going on. It’s always easy to look at videos and criticize. I know most people are trying to be helpful. In the field it’s different. Making videos take time. If you’re in a customers house you don’t have time to set up a camera and stage your shots. There more than one way to do these jobs. Having said that there’s a lot of good tips from other viewers who are experienced.
When you check the input gas pressure, you should do it with the burners running (rather than gas valve off). Sometimes the static pressure will be fine but drops way down under load because of a restriction or bad gas regulator. Might want to also check the voltage on the gas valve while it's connected and running in case you have a weak transformer, wiring, or thermostat.That old gas valve was opening up way too slowly.
Some old. Gas valves, and some ne’er ones are delay opening.
I learned a new symptom to look out for that I've never actually come across yet. Thanks man!
Great video! Thank you.
Good job, like the idea of keeping it neat and measure the gas pressure.
Nice find on that gas valve thanks for sharing 😎✌️
Great job man. Thanks
I have seen a lot on older units in areas with high condensation, especially first start up after summer, the gas crossovers will rust and completely clog up. Usually can solve it by taking a razor knife and scraping out all the rust and debris. Finish it up with a brass brush to take the dust off.
Good call.
I leave the first two threads of the pipe without dope.
Thanks for the tip. I've never seen this symptom
The intro kick ass
Great job and video like always
Where are your blue Handel Chanel locks
Good job.
I always recommend when putting pipe dope on the inlet side pipe to leave the first two threads clean, on dope.
Great video man. Keep these up!
I came across this same phenomena not too long ago on a new(ish) Allied packaged unit. Only the first burner would light, though with a very weak flame traveling all the way back to the spud. I I adjusted the manifold pressure as high as it would go, wouldn’t go any higher than 1.3” WC. Replaced the gas valve and it was fine after that.
Nice video
check for spider web in the oriface found more than a few that were pluged when using ng
HVAC School mentioned that Refrigeration technologies released Nylog White for doing pipe joints. Should look into it.
What are the benefits of nylog white over other brands?
Retired steamfitter here. In apprenticeship school we were told to never put pipe dope on gas lines because it would dry up and flake off causing problems.
So what is the correct sealer ? Teflon?
@@hvacmania8323 semen
@@Don_Kee I love free stuff
Good clip thanks a lot.What about using pipe tape on the pipe thread.
I don’t see why not. Personal preference I guess.
@@NighthawkHVAC I had one question I was not clear about and that was blowing into the unit to get all the burners to light to test- did you blow into the clear plastic tube of the manometer ?
No. I just blew across the burners to get them to light.
I’d be interested to know the part number of the original valve. Appears to be slow open valve you would typically find on a natural draft boiler. They have slow open MV. Plus with the dope in the valve looks like someone already replaced it. Nice video.
Nice video... did you clock the meter and check temp rise?
Stevie lav would have cleaned flame sensor first thing 😉
Steve Lav usually cleans the flame sensor. He charges by the hour and has a one hour minimum I believe so he makes sure the customer gets an hour’s worth of work.
I didn’t see if there was a sediment trap, could that and the dope getting inside the valve possibly be adding to the struggling ignition?
I noticed the missing drip leg also.
I never saw a single drip leg when I was in HVAC over 30 years ago. I think it is now required by code for new construction. Two years ago, I did install a new drip leg on the new furnace that I installed in my home. My water heater doesn’t have a drip leg but I will probably install one on there when I replace the water heater.
@@picklerix6162That’s interesting. I’ve been doing HVAC since 1978 and very rarely have NOT seen a drip leg. What state do you live in?
Hi there, thank you for the video. I have a dump questions here. 1. Why all burners lit up after you blew the air? 2. Is the gas regulator equivalent to gas valve issue, and you found that b/c the inlet pressure is too low on your manometer?
I had this happen to me once, gas pressure was good and gas valve was replaced, not by me tho, same exact issue, the tech told me he blew on it and it would lite, I sat and I thought and said ya know what, maybe my orfice was no good, I swapped the first orfice with the last one and wallah, it lit up just fine
2018 to 2020 rheems are notorious for flame not crossing over but it's interesting to see this issue with other brands.
I have a 2020 Rheem that I’m having this problem with. It takes several attempts before it will finally light all burners. What is causing this on these units??
@@riverrat8647 Poor design of the burners. You'll have to order new burner assembly and install it. I do not recommend you do that yourself. Find a Rheem dealer in your area and have them do it it's under warranty anyway and they will only charge you for labor. There is a hack for it but I can't share it because someone will do it and set their house on fire.
@@hvacguy2143, well I’ve discovered that mine works flawlessly every single time with the access panel off. That tells me that my issue is an airflow/intake issue. It’s an outside unit. I’ve left the panel cracked open slightly in the meantime. HVAC tech is coming next week to sort out my issue. Thanks!!
i have been in the industrie for over 15 yrs and i havent replaced more then 5 and for some reason this season i already replaced 3 gas valves in the last 2 months and they were under 3 years! i guessing Honeywell went cheap on their parts! or maybe its just luck! Good Catch. Keep the vids coming. 2 thumbs up.
I lament looking at an older Lennox furnace with a USA made fan motor Ametek and fire compartment. No one wants to make things last anymore.
Horrible? I learned a bunch of things
Glad to help!
My igniter glowed but the gas valve didn’t open. If I buy a new valve, unplug the wire from the old valve, take this wire and plug it into the new valve. Start the furnace, the motor runs, the pressure switch closes, the igniter glows, will I hear anything from the new valve (hissing or clicking)? Thank you.
You should hear a click and low voltage should appear at the valve. If the valve is not being energized, you may have a bad control board. You should also check for loose connections. My control board went bad after 16 years.
I concur. 👍
What is the name of the stuff you put on the threads of the pipe? Thank you.
Pipe dope.
@@NighthawkHVAC what device were you using to measure gas pressure? Thank you.
A manometer. However if you’re not a trained HVAC tech. I highly suggest you call a professional to look at your furnace. As a furnace deals with combustion and high voltages.
@@NighthawkHVAC thank you for your advice. I appreciate it very much.
It looks like someone replaced the gas valve with a slow open gas valve.
What kind of gas
Natural gas.
Can't hear him
Gas leak test after gas valve replacement...always
Voice volume is a bit low
👍
You’re a horrible technician. (You told me to tell you that in the comments...) 😂. Good video. What make is that red adjustable wrench? I’ve been looking for one like it. Thanks.
Thanks for watching the whole video. I really appreciate it. It’s just a Crescent brand wrench. Picked it up at HD a few years ago.
I'm going to bet there's no drip leg...
You are correct sir!
You’re measuring the gas companies regulator lock up pressure. To measure incoming gas pressure, the furnace has to be running. You can’t condemn the regulator in the gas valve for low gas pressure, until you check the incoming pressure under operation. In fact, all of the other gas appliances should be turned on, then check the dynamic incoming gas pressure at the furnace. Not the sanding pressure, which will always be higher, than when the gas is flowing. Looks like your still having low gas pressure problems, as it never came up to 3.5. Looked like you were turning the regulator and it wasn’t responding. Go back and re check the incoming while the furnace is running. Usually the gas company sets it to around 7.0” but I think you have to have a minimum of 5.5” or so as there is a loss thru the regulator at the gas valve. The data plate should tell you what the minimum gas pressure needs to be under load. If the incoming pressure is not in spec, the gas valve was probably OK.
I agree that inlet pressure is measured while gas is flowing, but it looks like a slow open valve was installed on on this unit.
Good content but leave your intro music in the drawer. Audio levels varies too much
You need a GoPro on your chest or head to give us a better viewing experience.
Ok knowing nothing about a furnace.... why use nitrogen instead of just some cheap ol’ (free)compressed air, there must be some weird reasoning besides cost- maybe the nitrogen has the same gravity/weight or closer to natural gas than regular air? I don’t have a clue
It’s cheap dry and on the truck. Compressed air sometimes has moisture in the air. That’s why we use nitrogen for everything.
Put your adjustable wrenches on the same orientation as you do for your pipe wrenches. :o) Other than that, Great Job!
Stop saying "this guy" please
Thanks for the insight!