Crazy how I first taught front to be as close as possible and making constancy with the body thinking that was the right way because I would see people on instagram doing it that way 😭😭 I knew something was wrong tho because getting him into other positions from a front that close was more difficult and uncomfortable for him, so I’ve been trying to teach it the right way but he’s still used to getting close up and making eye contact lmfao. Glad I’ve found your videos though they’ve really been helping 🤙🏽
@@SchutzhundKevin I actually had a question with the dumbbell hold does the position in mouth matter? I know it’s not supposed to be held with the back teeth and behind the canines. Does it have to be DIRECTLY behind the canines? Or is it fine wherever as long as it’s not on the back molars
Wow I've been searching for this behavior. Thanks. Hoping you'd teach dog coming at you then you command and instant stop then go again to you when recalled
Hi Kevin I'm one of the subscriber of your channel I like all your videos and very helpful to train my dog.. And how to fix when the dog slow in recall
How about teaching good straight left finishes. Mostly a swing left. A high leaping finish leaves too much to chance on a landing to a straight sit. I am incorporating your fronts for competition obedience because my Sheltie's crooked sits in utility are eating us alive in score deductions.
@@SchutzhundKevin Your instructions for getting a straight front is working wonders for my Sheltie! It is better than spitting treats at her, plus spitting treats is no longer allowed at our obedience club due to COVID protocols. However, holding the treat in my lips does help with positioning my sheltie for the finish without under-or over-rotating because she is the right height (16 3/4") to my five foot tall stature to make it work. At home, I might spit the food for a finish, but I am starting to find it more efficient to simply take the food out of my mouth, move it down my side, and say "yes," and treat in position. Hannah is my first completely clicker trained/shaped dog of all the dogs I've had, two Collies, four Shelties. (but not all at once!). One of my instructors is a direct student of Bob Bailey. (www.artandscienceofanimaltraining.org/conference/speakers/bob-bailey/). Hannah is trained at the Utility level and has her Utility Dog Excellent (UDX) title.
dear Kevin, thank you for the beautiful video. My English is not very good, could you explain more about the last error of the training - about "too many recalls". where is the danger? What are the consequences? Overexciting the dog?
Another great lesson. I see other IGP trainers getting their dogs to touch there belly on the front. Is this incorrect for competition? Do you have a video on flip finish? I'm having a hard time getting my dog to flip with bum first into a nice flip without jumping or going in too deep with head first before adjusting to focus heel.
Wow! What a great 'come front' tutorial! My dog has a great front but in your vids your dog's toes are right in front of your shoes (almost touching). My dog front is about 2 inches away from the top of my shoes. What is correct?
“Close” but not touching. :). Either would be fine.
4 года назад+2
Love your videos! Thanks for sharing :) I have one question... I heard you say that you jackpot pay the dog if he does it pretty well and maybe play with him a bit. Some trainer pals say it's best if you immediately take the dog to its kennel so that the info that they got during the session won't dilute. I feel that it sends the wrong message to the dog... Meaning, if you do things right, I'll lock you up. What are your thoughts on this?
It can work well! Mostly, once you make a "big improvemnet" or litte... I jack pot and play, then put them up. This way they remember the last thing they did to get the reward and play! If you get a big improvemnt and then continue on to train 10 more things, they'll "learn" but I find a little slower than making a big deal of getting it right, and then ending the trainng on a high note! We want to stop training when the dogs want it the most! This building more and more desire to do the work!
My shepherd loves to slam into me during recalls. If I do short recalls, he doesn’t touch, but if I’m farther away, he goes so fast and gets so excited, it’s all gas no brakes and I’m in the way. How do I get him to understand he needs to be close, but can’t touch? I’ve been trying to just proof a bunch of shorter recalls, but no matter how many great fronts he does, as soon as I increase the distance, he’s back to slamming. Would you recommend using a box or other props? I just feel like this would be difficult to fade and I want him to really understand what I want here. With a prop, I feel like he’s not necessarily understanding he can’t touch, just that he has to sit in a box (which I guess could make him more careful but might slow him down too much).
HI Kevin, very use full video. just wonder when you said jackpot and end the session. is that like ending the whole day training session, or just giving time for the dog to tke a break for say like an hour to the next session ?.
Just end the whole session. If there’s a breakthrough moment with the dog, we don’t want to water it down with a bunch of other training. Dogs remember the last thing they do the best.
Any tips for getting the rear end to tuck under as the dog moves into the sit position, versus the rocking-back type of sit? The dog may be tight to me on approach but ends feeling far away due to a rocking sit.
Have the dog in a down, stand in front. “Here” lure up into sit coming into you. Only reward if the dog sits up to you and keeps nose on hand target. Having them keep the nose on target and sitting, will prevent the rock back. Make sure to mark the correct body mechanics and re-lure into the tuck sit. Hope that helps!
Do.u have a video.. heel position then to.end up.in front position.. my dog always sits then with butt out.. Front recall he's perfectly aligned barring not right up to my stomach with body almost inside ones legs.. sorry - not explaining myself very well..
Reward any slightly closer movement. Don’t give him treat for being far away. Gradually he should be more comfortable getting closer, or lure him with a ball. Make sure to mark and reward only when he moves closer.
@@SchutzhundKevin Thanks for your reply! I'll try my best. It seems like if he gets too close he'll just sit sideways. Food or toy lures don't really work for me.
Not yet! I'll add that to the list... just teach close fronts and then full distance. :) Speed comes pretty easy. It's the correct front thats the trick.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Crazy how I first taught front to be as close as possible and making constancy with the body thinking that was the right way because I would see people on instagram doing it that way 😭😭 I knew something was wrong tho because getting him into other positions from a front that close was more difficult and uncomfortable for him, so I’ve been trying to teach it the right way but he’s still used to getting close up and making eye contact lmfao. Glad I’ve found your videos though they’ve really been helping 🤙🏽
I;m glkad they're helping!
@@SchutzhundKevin I actually had a question with the dumbbell hold does the position in mouth matter? I know it’s not supposed to be held with the back teeth and behind the canines. Does it have to be DIRECTLY behind the canines? Or is it fine wherever as long as it’s not on the back molars
I love ❤️ teaching my Dutch sheapherd new things to keep him stimulated and prevent boredom.
Thanks. Please continue to videos like this.
I love ❤️ teaching my Dutch Shepherd new things for fun only purposes to keep him stimulated.
Thank you 😊
You are awesome 👌
You're welcome!
Thank you for these valuable insights! I can’t wait to work through some of these videos with my dog and see what we can accomplish!
Explained beautifully.
Thanks!
Your very informative, thank you
Thank you ❤❤
Thanks 👍👍👍👍
Great work.
Do you have any video where you teach them that fast quick down
ruclips.net/video/DjcwLU65Y34/видео.html
www.schutzhundkevin.com/course/new-puppy-now-what
Great explanation and troubleshooting. I really liked this video! Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Love ur teaching bro
Thanks! I’m glad it’s helpful!
Guilty of Fix-It Syndrome. Thanks for the tip.
Good job Kevin, thank you for sharing this video. Cheers mate
Nice! Thank you!
Wow I've been searching for this behavior. Thanks. Hoping you'd teach dog coming at you then you command and instant stop then go again to you when recalled
Perfect
Thanks!
Nice work 👌
Thank you! Cheers!
thanks for the videos. they're awesome so are your dogs and teaching skills.
Glad you like them!
Really good and informative vid! Keep it up! Going to fix a few issues on my front in tomorrows session!
Silly question but what if your dog is not food driven? Will a play toy work also?
Yeah you can use a toy, just a little harder to be precise... Ball or Tug under the chin.. or luring with hands at first.
Hi Kevin I'm one of the subscriber of your channel I like all your videos and very helpful to train my dog.. And how to fix when the dog slow in recall
Hold and Bark Foundation pls
Thanks for the feedback! I'll add it to the list!
I have doing some bite work training with my dogs, so I need to know the bite pillow and Bite sleeve usage about HOW WHEN WHAT AND WHY..
How about teaching good straight left finishes. Mostly a swing left. A high leaping finish leaves too much to chance on a landing to a straight sit. I am incorporating your fronts for competition obedience because my Sheltie's crooked sits in utility are eating us alive in score deductions.
It's in the works! Almost will have them posted soon! In a couple weeks!
@@SchutzhundKevin Your instructions for getting a straight front is working wonders for my Sheltie! It is better than spitting treats at her, plus spitting treats is no longer allowed at our obedience club due to COVID protocols. However, holding the treat in my lips does help with positioning my sheltie for the finish without under-or over-rotating because she is the right height (16 3/4") to my five foot tall stature to make it work. At home, I might spit the food for a finish, but I am starting to find it more efficient to simply take the food out of my mouth, move it down my side, and say "yes," and treat in position. Hannah is my first completely clicker trained/shaped dog of all the dogs I've had, two Collies, four Shelties. (but not all at once!). One of my instructors is a direct student of Bob Bailey. (www.artandscienceofanimaltraining.org/conference/speakers/bob-bailey/). Hannah is trained at the Utility level and has her Utility Dog Excellent (UDX) title.
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dear Kevin, thank you for the beautiful video. My English is not very good, could you explain more about the last error of the training - about "too many recalls". where is the danger? What are the consequences? Overexciting the dog?
Boredom maybe.. or getting tired- poor technique- can't end on good note??? That's my opinion..I might be totally off target of course..
Another great lesson. I see other IGP trainers getting their dogs to touch there belly on the front. Is this incorrect for competition? Do you have a video on flip finish? I'm having a hard time getting my dog to flip with bum first into a nice flip without jumping or going in too deep with head first before adjusting to focus heel.
Touching is faulty. Can be minor point loss, Check the flip about turn video. I show how I teach the butt to move in.
@@SchutzhundKevin thanks.. I actually thought they needed to.touch and I wasn't succeeded in that.. now I feel much better..lol
Wow! What a great 'come front' tutorial! My dog has a great front but in your vids your dog's toes are right in front of your shoes (almost touching). My dog front is about 2 inches away from the top of my shoes. What is correct?
“Close” but not touching. :). Either would be fine.
Love your videos! Thanks for sharing :) I have one question... I heard you say that you jackpot pay the dog if he does it pretty well and maybe play with him a bit. Some trainer pals say it's best if you immediately take the dog to its kennel so that the info that they got during the session won't dilute. I feel that it sends the wrong message to the dog... Meaning, if you do things right, I'll lock you up. What are your thoughts on this?
It can work well! Mostly, once you make a "big improvemnet" or litte... I jack pot and play, then put them up. This way they remember the last thing they did to get the reward and play! If you get a big improvemnt and then continue on to train 10 more things, they'll "learn" but I find a little slower than making a big deal of getting it right, and then ending the trainng on a high note! We want to stop training when the dogs want it the most! This building more and more desire to do the work!
@@SchutzhundKevin Awesome :) thank you!
How do I do it with a small dog that can’t reach my hand lure?
You could use a target stick, or just teach them to look at the hand lure and not touch it.
My shepherd loves to slam into me during recalls. If I do short recalls, he doesn’t touch, but if I’m farther away, he goes so fast and gets so excited, it’s all gas no brakes and I’m in the way. How do I get him to understand he needs to be close, but can’t touch?
I’ve been trying to just proof a bunch of shorter recalls, but no matter how many great fronts he does, as soon as I increase the distance, he’s back to slamming.
Would you recommend using a box or other props? I just feel like this would be difficult to fade and I want him to really understand what I want here. With a prop, I feel like he’s not necessarily understanding he can’t touch, just that he has to sit in a box (which I guess could make him more careful but might slow him down too much).
HI Kevin, very use full video. just wonder when you said jackpot and end the session. is that like ending the whole day training session, or just giving time for the dog to tke a break for say like an hour to the next session ?.
Just end the whole session. If there’s a breakthrough moment with the dog, we don’t want to water it down with a bunch of other training. Dogs remember the last thing they do the best.
Any tips for getting the rear end to tuck under as the dog moves into the sit position, versus the rocking-back type of sit? The dog may be tight to me on approach but ends feeling far away due to a rocking sit.
Have the dog in a down, stand in front. “Here” lure up into sit coming into you. Only reward if the dog sits up to you and keeps nose on hand target. Having them keep the nose on target and sitting, will prevent the rock back. Make sure to mark the correct body mechanics and re-lure into the tuck sit. Hope that helps!
Hi Sir how to teach down in motion. Means dog will down when moving towards decoy n look towards the handler
When downing for the setup to escape? I want the dog staring at the decoy not the handler.
Do.u have a video.. heel position then to.end up.in front position.. my dog always sits then with butt out..
Front recall he's perfectly aligned barring not right up to my stomach with body almost inside ones legs.. sorry - not explaining myself very well..
@schutzhund Kevin
My dog doesnt like to get too close. He won't follow the food lure. What do I do? He leave like half a metre gap. I want him closer, not sure how
Reward any slightly closer movement. Don’t give him treat for being far away. Gradually he should be more comfortable getting closer, or lure him with a ball. Make sure to mark and reward only when he moves closer.
@@SchutzhundKevin Thanks for your reply! I'll try my best. It seems like if he gets too close he'll just sit sideways. Food or toy lures don't really work for me.
Does anyone know how to get the dog to actually sit infront of you?💀 I can’t get her to sit infront of me I lead her close then she backs up to sit
I have another video on that. How to Train Fronts
ruclips.net/video/yHJ5dl5bMzU/видео.html
Hi Kevin, in addition to the Front command do you have videos showing your philosophy on teaching the recall command?
Not yet! I'll add that to the list... just teach close fronts and then full distance. :) Speed comes pretty easy. It's the correct front thats the trick.
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