Ford Transit | How to Upgrade the Customer Connection Point / CCP. Battery location + Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 30 июн 2024
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How to upgrade a Ford transit MK8 customer connection point. Using the official Ford Transit European upgrade kit. Additionally, this video shows how to remove the driver's seat/chair & battery location and removal.
The customer connection point is used for auxiliary items in my case I use it for a Victron battery to battery charger
Some models of Ford Transit will come with a single 60 amp fuse to post on their customer connection point this can be upgraded to 3 posts.
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The mind boggles..wouldn't know where to start if I'm honest but well done you !
Excellent Video!!! Thank you 🙏
No problem at all
Really good video mate 👍
Glad it was helpful
Really good video. Thank you.
Thanks for watching, glad it had been helpful
Great video! Thanks!
Thank you very much hope it was helpful
Excellent video! I am sure helpful for those without the fused CCP post.
I could be wrong but I am under the impression the US transits come with the CCP post installed and fused. Perhaps the smaller models don’t, but the 148 and 148 extended appear to if you read the US Transit forum.
Yep they do. I have a US 2020 Transit 148 extended with one battery and it has two CCP terminals fused and ready to accept wires. Made connecting my DC-DC charger so easy!
Yeah all transits come with a CCP. But it seems the amount of posts can vary for some reason . I know someone who had no posts, a lot of with one and usually the vehicles already with two batteries ( starter and aux ) Will come with three posts already.
I have been pulling my hair out all day trying to workout why i couldnt get ingnition live and just by chance i watched this and you told me!! So So helpful, stupid place to put it on fords behalf, most people wanting a ignition live for dash cam etc wouldnt dream of looking so far from the fuse box under dash, out of interest how did you find out about it? A massive thanks for this vid and all the other build/updates as i am starting a camper on the same model year, massive help Alex👍👍👍
Glad it’s been helpful and yes, it is definitely not an easy thing to find!
I managed to find it because I got hold of a Ford up outfitters manual online which seems to be a document made by Ford. it shows many things about the vehicle which aftermarket company might use, including where to find the ignition live & engine live hidden down the side of the seat.
Best of luck on your build, and I hope some of the other videos are helpful as well
On Transits with two posts from the factory , one of them is on the ignition switch and the other is not switched , (always has voltage). So in these cases there is no reason to go into the seat to find ignition live. Correct? What a pain to have to take the seat off to inspect or replace that fuse!
Gold - thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Good video. You can connect to the ignition live pin with the ford loom and plug without removing the battery but you definitely need to remove the seat and have small hands! Used it to trigger my Victron B2B as I wasn’t convinced it was cutting off when vehicle engine was off.
Yeah I would agree if you have access to the pigtail connector for it and tiny hands! I didn’t have access to the pigtail connector so I spaced into the wire further down
Interesting you are having issues with the Victron B2B not turning off. I’ve installed quite a few of them now and even run two of them in parallel of my van with the automatic engine detection.
@@MispronouncedAdventures I think the issue was me actually but I still have it connected as a fail safe. Looking to fit a battery equaliser to top van battery up from leisure battery when needed so that should hopefully work.
Ah another issue I have seen before with symptoms like that is the B2B be not changed off the default “power supply mode” over to the charge mode in the app.
I use a 1amp trickle charger from the leisure bank to top up that starter, controlled by the starter bay voltage
@@MispronouncedAdventures I don’t have an inverter on my setup but use victron charger for leisure battery when on hook up. Could use the victron to do both as 3 output but charger setup for lithium on leisure battery and vehicle battery is AGM so profiles are different and as far as I can work out you can’t set different profiles for different outputs.
If you are running the US Ford Transit Trail, there are 2 AGM batteries under the driver seat and the CCP can support 175 amps.
Not surprising as the trail is one of the higher spec models.
Hi
I am running a ctex wood it be all right for the post to put a 30 amp breaker then to the ctex
Many thanks
What a great video. Ive ordered the kit because of this video. Very helpful. My question is,if you know the answer. 1) As this is a permanent voltage, in the even of theain battery becoming low, does this then shut off or is it connected to the battery directly? Im looking to run a smallish inverterto charge some drill batteries and was wanting to be able to charge them without discharging the starter battery
As this is a permanent live, you would need to have something to shut down to not drain your battery. Inverters have a standby current.
Thank you for the video, I'm going to upgrade my ccp :) Could you please advise what you used to connect three wires coming out of the ccp into one wire?
No problem. I used a mega fuse holder
What year is this Transit? Thanks for the video. Lots to learn about energy requirements.
2018 model. So a “MK8” in Europe. Just a transit in the US.
love it! subb'd
Thank you
Great video! You got a new sub! We have a 2022 Ford Transit. I have a few stupid question and a few good questions:
1 - are your black cables hooked up to your negative battery terminals?
We have two batteries, should we hook up one black cable to each?
2 - if i have dual alternators, with two batteries, and two victron Dc-to-Dc chargers, is one alternator charging one battery, while the other alternator is charging the other? Are both alternators putting in the same amount of work?
My concern is that my two Dc-to-Dc chargers are wearing out one alternator with this setup.
Hello! Thank you for subscribing and apologies for the slow reply.
1. I have the black cable terminating on one of the lugs near the main batteries terminal button before the BMS control part.
if your van has two batteries, normally one is auxiliary, and one is a starter when the vehicle is off. It’s splits the auxiliary and from starter battery. When the vehicle is running together, I would add your DCDC chargers to the CCP on the pos and black/neg to the starter, although it won’t make a difference because those batteries are only split the positive cable the negative will be continuous.
2. I’m not really sure the configuration of duel alternators if all power goes the same spot, as in they are running in parallel, and you just use the CCP. Or if the second alternator is completely independent.
2 DCDC, chargers isn’t much of an increase load on a single alternator. Mine is a single 220A
Hi! Can I ask why do you install a second BtoB? I tought you're good on charging already. What devices suck your energy dry? (Just so I can check if I gonna use those too, therefore need to expect this, or not) Thank you!
Sure no problem at all. It’s gonna be explained in the video but It’s more so I “can” charge faster, opposed to I “need” to charge faster.
No issues with using too much energy or anything like that. I’ll probably have the second one turned off during the summer as well as there is plenty of solar then. Just nice in the winter that I could be parked up for a couple days with no solar and only have to do a small amount of driving to get back up to full
Hi dude, excellent video👍what size lugs are required for the external ccp bolts? Looks like 5mm but could you confirm please? Thanks
Aye 5mm studs like on midi fuses
@@MispronouncedAdventures 👍
What’s the best wire / connector to use for the ignition live Alex? Great video thank you!!
I believe Ford actually made a specific pigtail wiring harness for the connection plug in the drivers seat For aftermarket fitters, one of those wires is ignition live.
However, in my case, I just tapped the wire before the plug and run it To my necessary needs
@@MispronouncedAdventures awesome thank you!
@MettleMountains no problem, apologies I don’t know the part code for it
Brilliant channel very informative for a fellow Mk8 Transit owner, im currently looking at buying then installing the victron DC to DC charger Non Isolated as i intend to earth my batterys to the chassis ground point, to the best of your knowledge do you know if i can connect my single positive wire from the CCP to my DC to DC charger? also would there be any need for midi fuse before the charger as the CCP supply is already fused to 60Amp? would much appreciate your opinion on this, cheers luke.
Glad you have found it useful. I wouldn’t say you need to install an additional fuse between the CCP and the input of the DC-DC charger. As the ccp point as you pointed out is already fused at 60amp . However it’s very difficult to reach the CCP fuse if it blew. so putting your own in-line fuse after the CCP point might make it easier to access in the case of having to replace of fuse
@@MispronouncedAdventures valid point makes sense, extra fuse is it, can I also ask what spec tyres are you running, they look sweet, and I’m due an upgrade, cheers lukr
No problem. Hope that helps.
My tyres are 225/75R16 115 BFgoodrich KO2
Hi Alex, great videos, all of them!! Quick question - I have same B2B charger (only 1) can I just connect +ve to the CCP, Black to van battery. I won’t need the live ignition part as the Victron will sense when the van is running, true?
Thank you for watching. Yes just on the CCP is fine. I use ignition live for powering my cooling fans, but not the actual unit itself. The unit is automatic
@@MispronouncedAdventures wow, honestly where/how do you think this up!! I saw the clip with the fans, I would have never thought about wiring up in that manner. 💎 cheers pal 👍🏻⭐️
Thanks for the video. Curious what's the max watts you can draw with the upgrade?
Maximum watts would depend on the voltage, but the voltage range is going to be 12-14.6v in the van. Each terminal is a 60amp fuse.
V x A = W
Three 60Amp fuses posts in parallel ( 180A ) would be over 2500w! at normal van voltage. I have all three grouped together and up about 79A through it for hours on end. I probably do 800-1000w
I’ve got a 220A alternator in mine, so I’m happy with a load of that size
Thanks for the quick reply. Trying to get my head around all this. It's like learning a new language.
Surely 3 x 60A fuses in parallel will give a 180A supply so I assume the wiring used is rated for that.
Indeed, wire harness / alternator wire thickness is the same on all the models of alternator big or small / 1 pole or 3 pole CCP. As for my wiring as I take about a 79A load and I have 50mm2 cable running to the back
My CCP Pint cover is mussing, can you give me the UK Part Number for the case, couldn't quite read it on the video...thanks
What gage wires did you use coming off the 3 ccp points and fuse size in the mega fuse holder joining to the back cable please?
I’ve used 3 x 16mm2 to the Mega fuse which then goes to 50mm2 to run to the back of the van
@@MispronouncedAdventures thank you 🥰
A bit of a faff but at least it’s been done properly and safely
I certainly agree it’s a bit of a faff!
So your essentially your double fused.. What was the first fuse you had on the 16mm from the battery
No the original, only had a single fuse as it was directly on the terminal, so the in-line fuse was The only fuse.
with the upgrade CCP each point is already fuse, so you wouldn’t need to add a second fuse in line as it’s already fused although if you did add a slightly smaller fuse it would be far easier to replace if I did blow
The first fuse I was using was a 60 amp anyway and that’s what a lot of the Victron B2B charger kits come with
So are these ignition triggered posts? Or always live? How do you keep the dual dc-dc chargers from draining your battery after you stop?
They are constant live. my DCDC’s automatically detect if the engine is running or not via changes in input voltage. Other models will use an separate ignition live or engine live signal
@@MispronouncedAdventures as I’m getting into this transit van i seem to always find a mispronounced adventure video for exactly what I’m looking for. Lol. And grest at replying so i appreciate it
There's an ignition negative in one of the plugs, you can use it to ground a relay (ie. ignition off state = open ground not earthed) and use that for DC-DC charger charge triggering.
Bizarrely, although the latest Renogy DC-DC chargers have charge monitoring for switch on/switch off, they also have a detection wire port as well 🤷🏼♂️
does the drivers seat need to be removed to replace/test the main battery on modern transits? :O
I’d so no, with the chair slide fully forward and reclining back pushed forwards. You can access and remove the top metal panel and plastic battery cover and gain access to the battery. Just very fiddly with a bulkhead in the way, and even more difficult for me to film.
But if you wanted to remove the battery plastic tray to gain access to the pre-fuse board I think the chair would have to come off. at least it’s a simple process of removing the chair with 4 bolts
@@MispronouncedAdventures looks like the kind of thing that could be really frustrating when needing a quick jump start, but I guess there's not many other places for it to go...
Seeing things like this make me love my 35 year old transit even more 😂
Love the videos! 👍🏻
Ah not at all, the modern transit has a big jump point in the engine bay, it’s got a massive positive labelled jump post next to the engine fuse box and a large engine negative point to put a clip on
Is the CCP permanent live or is it only powered up by the key please.
Permanent live. For the purpose of my battery to battery charges, the charges can tell when the engine is running by the change in system voltage, and know when to turn on and off.
There is however a plug inside the drivers seat where one of the pins is a ignition live
Hi sorry I’m not that good at this stuff but can I come off that straight to a inverter or do I need to get a dc to dc charger and put another battery in
You could use an appropriate size inverter directly off the starter battery, however, I would probably only recommend using it when the engine was running so not to risk flattening the starter battery
@@MispronouncedAdventures thank you I’ll try look into it find out what size inverter to use is only for charging big dewalt batteries and maybe fit a coffee machine in the back of it so won’t be used all the time thanks again for you help
@@billysalter8734You could add a second battery under the seat base connected in parallel to the first, that would increase your amp-hour capacity. So if your main starter battery is 95ah, adding another would give you 190ah from the CCP.
Is the CCP permanently live or is it only powered up by the key please?
Permanent, however there is a ignition live on the end of a plug inside the driver seat base
Doing electrical work with a copper bracelet on?
Yes, I do occasionally take them off if working with hands in a confined area with a live system and I deem the bangles a risk, otherwise I leave them on. The vehicle battery is disconnected for most of the work upgrading the CCP so the system isn’t live
Hi Alex. Eventually I have manage to upgrade ccp and connect 2 victrons 30a each. However I am only getting 44amps at the ccp point. Each victron giving 28a when together 44a. Any idea why that could be? Thank you so much
What is the input voltage the units are says? As the units will only pull what’s possible. There isn’t a bottleneck as such the CCP isn’t preventing the higher amps for some reason the units aren’t receiving them. What wire thickness are you using?
@@MispronouncedAdventures the input voltage on each is 13.8 and I only getting 35A max charge at any time. The amps at ccp point is 44a. How many amps do you get in your setup please?
I get around 65amp output in total ( both units combined ) and 76amp input
@@MispronouncedAdventures I must have done something wrong.... : ) Thank you
Also potentially not, on a previous trip where for some reason I was just not not get getting amps from the alternator.
What would. Could this be used for please
Thank you.
Being a customer connection point, a variety of things really down to the customer.
In my case I run 2 x 30 amp output DC to DC charges to charge my leisure system which is a draw of around 75A , and since the single post is only rated to a 60 amp fuse. I parallel them together to have a combined higher output.
Thank you
You could also run a VSR/split charge set-up, inverter with monitoring, anything you need power for within the supply capabilities but you'll need monitoring.
Would there be any benefit to adding a 2nd battery in that unit
For me, no. As I run all of my auxiliary stuff off my leisure battery bank. But for something who didn’t have have a leisure battery bank or a separate leisure system. a second battery would be of benefit if you want to run auxiliary item with the engine off.
I got 2 batery's under the seat but also run all devices from house battery's. Are you planning to leave the B2B always on or will you add a cut off switch?
Yes two batteries is quite a common factory option on the transit, Usually the ones with the dual battery is already have three posts on the CCP. they can have your batteries for a number of reasons auxiliary loads & stop start and so on.
I’m using Victron B2B chargers so no need for a switch for me as they automatically sense when the engine is on or off.
@@MispronouncedAdventures might be a stupid question but how comes you dont have your leisure battery under the seat?
Not a stupid question at all, I have a physically leisure bank which is made up of three individual 130 amp hour lithium batteries running in parallel for a total of 390ah @ 12V
so if a fuse blows you need to take the seat out ?
Yes I’d guess so. But you should never be blowing a 60amp fuse on the CCP unless there as have a catastrophic failure somewhere.
In the same way it’s very rare to ever blow a midi fuse or mega fuse on any vehicle pre-fuse box unless something major has gone wrong
@@MispronouncedAdventures Agree with both replies But :) ... the seat out LOL :) Oh and everybody... Always Fuse please :) no Fuse can = Fire and a bad day... !
on my 2018 Ford Transit, my battery shuts off completely after 30 minutes, including interior lights and DC outlets. Protect the battery, Anyone know how to keep that from shutting off.
Does yours have a single battery under the seat or double?
Your battery won't shut off completely/total disconnect, only circuits running from the battery that would otherwise drain it.
Im guessing ur van is low horse power if only one battery
Nope, it’s the 170bp model ( most are 115 or 130 ) and the larger 220A alternator. Not sure why horse power makes any difference to single or duel battery options. Second battery is for Aux loads
No sure why it’s only one, as I’ve worked on 130bp transits with two