Two comments: I always insert the piston back into the cylinder from the bottom, not the top. A worn cylinder that has not been honed has a little ridge at the top of the piston travel, and I would rather not push the rings over the ridge. (This is more of an issue with iron cylinders that do not have nikasil lining, 1979 and earlier.) Also, if you are disconnecting the piston anyway, you can pull the cylinder only part-way off, remove the circlip and piston pin, then leave the piston in the cylinder while replacing the pushrod tube seals. Then you don't need a ring compressor.
Subscribed. Enjoyable to watch fellow mechanics who specialize in one marque and know what they are doing. Regards, Guzzi big twin (a mechanic's dream to work on) and Brit twin owner. 79 stroked T140 owned from new - 40 years. Regards,
Hi Ed. In the video you made a comment about the head gaskets that they have no left or right side. This is wrong. The orientation of the holes for the pushrods is sligthly asymmetrical. The gasket will fit from each side but in one orientation the hole for the pushrods does not align exactly with the pushrod protection tubes. But anyway absolutely great videos. Greetings from Germany Daniel
Awesome videos and very informative, keep up the good work... i am about to replace my pushrod seals Question: i have been told to use a Gasket Maker silicone where the cylinder meets the engine block, is this necessary...? i notice you did not use anything between the cylinder and the engine block...
For the price of a circlip I would always change a circlip that retains a piston- how many times has it it been heated and and cooled in that engines life. I would doubt it has the tension of a new circlip. otherwise great video.
Hi Logjam, these engines rarely have head gasket leaks so I don't know that a copper head gasket would be of much benefit versus a stock one but if the price were less or the same it wouldn't hurt.
I just did a push rod tube seal and cylinder o-ring replacement on my '91 R100RT. I would not begin to question your methods considering that you have probably forgotten more than I actually know. However when I did this, I moved the cylinder out past the wrist pin, removed the clips and wrist pin and just pulled the cylinder and piston out as a unit. I didn't have any problems with this and so far haven't experienced any issues performance or otherwise doing it that way. Is there a specific reason that you don't do this type of repair that way? Did I screw myself by doing it this way? Was taking that shortcut a no-no?
I think what you did was a very clever and economical move Bob. All the better to leave the piston and rings undisturbed but I think professionals like Chris need to get in and check everything they've been dealing with so they can be sure it's all ok because you can be sure they will be blamed if it goes wrong any time soon.
The opening of the circlips on the piston pin, should point to the top or the bottom of the piston. This way it can't open when piston suddenly changes direction in TDC or BDC. And as someone else already said: slide the piston from the bottom in the cilinder, not the top.
Can’t you just move out the barrel a bit, just enough to get the pushrod seals out, then put the new ones on and push it back in place? This would avoid the piston ring hassles, but of course the old rubber rings would be reused.
Hi Chris. Thanks for your super video´s - very informativ. I´d like to ask you, if you could make a klip were you show "how to fix a cylinderhead" of a R 80 GS / changing of valves and cummins. The work shops here in Europe really take a lot of money for this. Thank you in advance and greetings from Denmark! BR Edgar
Agree! Maybe oil is not mandatory but definitely put the piston from the bottom. There is a chamfer on the bottom for that purpose and there is carbon buildup at the very top that you don't want to put it between the rings.
@@tomchilders Rings in Nikasil wear faster than in old cast-iron cylinders. In the latter the hardened rings last and the bore wears, which is why you had to re-bore those after a certain mileage. You should always measure the ring gap when deciding on whether to replace the rings at any given opportunity (definitely above a certain mileage, e.g. 100+ M miles).
Thank you! Everyone's comments and compliments make the production of these videos worthwhile. Thank you and Happy Holidays, Chris
Two comments: I always insert the piston back into the cylinder from the bottom, not the top. A worn cylinder that has not been honed has a little ridge at the top of the piston travel, and I would rather not push the rings over the ridge. (This is more of an issue with iron cylinders that do not have nikasil lining, 1979 and earlier.) Also, if you are disconnecting the piston anyway, you can pull the cylinder only part-way off, remove the circlip and piston pin, then leave the piston in the cylinder while replacing the pushrod tube seals. Then you don't need a ring compressor.
Chris is the best bmw airhead mechanic on the inter web .
Eh..quite some questionable actions in this video that would make me not let him work on my moto
Subscribed. Enjoyable to watch fellow mechanics who specialize in one marque and know what they are doing. Regards, Guzzi big twin (a mechanic's dream to work on) and Brit twin owner. 79 stroked T140 owned from new - 40 years. Regards,
Hi Ed. In the video you made a comment about the head gaskets that they have no left or right side. This is wrong. The orientation of the holes for the pushrods is sligthly asymmetrical. The gasket will fit from each side but in one orientation the hole for the pushrods does not align exactly with the pushrod protection tubes. But anyway absolutely great videos. Greetings from Germany Daniel
Lol! I just made the same comment using different words but deleted it when I read yours. I'm glad I'm not the only one that noticed.
Thanks for your great videos, I did this job today while fitting new Stanless steel Pushrod Tubes.
Awesome videos and very informative, keep up the good work...
i am about to replace my pushrod seals
Question: i have been told to use a Gasket Maker silicone where the cylinder meets the engine block, is this necessary...?
i notice you did not use anything between the cylinder and the engine block...
For the price of a circlip I would always change a circlip that retains a piston- how many times has it it been heated and and cooled in that engines life. I would doubt it has the tension of a new circlip. otherwise great video.
Hi Logjam, these engines rarely have head gasket leaks so I don't know that a copper head gasket would be of much benefit versus a stock one but if the price were less or the same it wouldn't hurt.
I just did a push rod tube seal and cylinder o-ring replacement on my '91 R100RT. I would not begin to question your methods considering that you have probably forgotten more than I actually know. However when I did this, I moved the cylinder out past the wrist pin, removed the clips and wrist pin and just pulled the cylinder and piston out as a unit. I didn't have any problems with this and so far haven't experienced any issues performance or otherwise doing it that way. Is there a specific reason that you don't do this type of repair that way? Did I screw myself by doing it this way? Was taking that shortcut a no-no?
I think what you did was a very clever and economical move Bob.
All the better to leave the piston and rings undisturbed but I think professionals like Chris need to get in and check everything they've been dealing with so they can be sure it's all ok because you can be sure they will be blamed if it goes wrong any time soon.
The opening of the circlips on the piston pin, should point to the top or the bottom of the piston. This way it can't open when piston suddenly changes direction in TDC or BDC. And as someone else already said: slide the piston from the bottom in the cilinder, not the top.
great job guys really enjoy this video
Can’t you just move out the barrel a bit, just enough to get the pushrod seals out, then put the new ones on and push it back in place? This would avoid the piston ring hassles, but of course the old rubber rings would be reused.
The cardboard absorbs oil leaks and keeps the engine quiet! :)
You fucking kick ass best attitude and educational value
thank you
Hi Chris. Thanks for your super video´s - very informativ. I´d like to ask you, if you could make a klip were you show "how to fix a cylinderhead" of a R 80 GS / changing of valves and cummins. The work shops here in Europe really take a lot of money for this. Thank you in advance and greetings from Denmark! BR Edgar
Have heard about copper made head gaskets, Chris? I bought a set off of ebay, but haven't used them yet.
I so wanted to wire brush the carbon off the piston !!
Seriously. How often do you take the engine apart... why not spend five seconds cleaning the damn thing.
Did you oil cylinder a bit before slide piston into it? And why from the top?
Agree! Maybe oil is not mandatory but definitely put the piston from the bottom. There is a chamfer on the bottom for that purpose and there is carbon buildup at the very top that you don't want to put it between the rings.
You didn't changed the piston rings? it's not a must when you open the cil?
Nikasil BMW cylinders and rings last a long time, 150K-200K miles or more. This 1982 bike has nikasil cylinder lining.
@@tomchilders Rings in Nikasil wear faster than in old cast-iron cylinders. In the latter the hardened rings last and the bore wears, which is why you had to re-bore those after a certain mileage. You should always measure the ring gap when deciding on whether to replace the rings at any given opportunity (definitely above a certain mileage, e.g. 100+ M miles).
waar kan ik onderdelen van bmw 1000 ćc bouwjaar 1976 kopen
nice!
Yard the cardboard out of there...