Thanks for the overwhelming response to this video, as well as our other videos on The Real Gunsmith Channel! We appreciate your comments and questions. Due to the volume of the comments and questions, some which would take some time to answer, we just don’t have the time to respond to them all. However many of the questions will be answered in future videos. Our first priority is to our paying clients. Writing out long answers would take time away from that, and I won’t put them “on hold” to post long answers here. If you have questions about getting gun work done or a custom rifle built, contact us at randyselby@randyscustomrifles.com. I have a wide range of prices for custom rifles so even the “average Joe or Josephine” can get into a custom package, just as accurate as the higher end rifles. For our detractors, we appreciate your difference of opinion, too, but I stand by my decades of experience. To all of you, thanks again for your overwhelming support. Stay tuned! God bless you all. Randy and Cathy
The Real Gunsmith , Randy sir, I realize this next question has nothing to do with this video, but I hope you can help. Let's say that you had a scope with only (1) one full turn of they elevation turret & it equaled 14 minutes of elevation, the scope is zeroed at 200 yards & it's on a .300 win mag 24" barrel shooting a 175gr.tipped boattail (b.c. - .508) @ 3,120 fps, "?" @ what yardage would the 14 minutes of elevation run out at. How far (yards) hill this allow you to correct for ? ? ? ? ? Thank you in advance for any help you can provide....
I'm somewhat new to reloading but finding the feel method works for me when full length sizing to achieve minimal head space without bumping shoulder too much. Apparently your video indicates I do not have to take firing pin out on my rifles without control feed 3 way safeties. That's great news. Wonder if you concern yourself with expander ball creating run out on the case neck. I only do my 325wsm rifles for now but wonder if I should use bushing dies,or honed dies without expander,or just sand down expander for proper neck tension.
I use the feel method as you describe in the video. Some say to take firing pin out of bolt. With the firing pin (no camming of lugs) it is suggested to turn die down till there is no resistance of bolt handle and it is capable of dropping with no resistance(or barely none). I see that I don't have to take bolt out with the feel method for minimal head space. Thanks again !
Randy thanks for your advice I just wish there were RUclips when I started reloading. Coming from a family of hunters near small rural town in the Northern Cape South Africa I bought a Lee Anniversary reloading kit age 13 at that time I was the only one reloading in the district so I couldn't ask anyone for help the first couple of loads was a disaster but after 25 years I managed to get things right and bought better equipment as time progressed but I learned so much from you and thanks you for sharing your Knowledge It's really appreciated. Kind Regards Christo Combrink
This is a great video. What would be awesome would be a reloading video that gives us a visual demonstration of what mistakes he says people make followed up by what to actually do correctly.
Do you have a video series of your reloading process from start to finish? It would really be a great help for people who are just starting to learn how to do this. This is a great channel!
I was doing it wrong for over 30 years because I went by what was written on the rcbs die instructions. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and thank you for being a great American!
3:53 Exactly! I used to be a member of a Marlin website I will not disclose the name, and they was saying how they get about 7 firings per rifle case. When I told them I have cases with over 100 firings, I was trolled by the site mod and his fanboys. I figured if they weren't interested in relaying useful information, I didn't need to be there.
I've been aware of the issues of shoulder depth and have neck sized with that in mind, but you have explained this in a way that sets me straight. Thank you Randy for this series of videos and sharing your extensive knowledge. After all, knowledge is the greatest gift you can ever give to another human being and becomes a true legacy to be remembered when you are gone. By the way, I'm just down the road on the other side of BB Reservoir from you. I'll keep an eye out for you around town and thank you proper if we meet.
Sir, I’ve been loading ammunition for 40 years and very much appreciate this particular video and your conversation concerning proper loading ,I see a few of the errors of my way and I very much appreciate the knowledge that you’ve given many of us to help us Properly load our own ammunition to get the most out of our particular rifles, I thank you👍
There are some of the videos taken in my shop. Besides my collection I inherited my Granddad's shop. So I am well set up. There will be future videos in the shop, too.
Thank you. Another good video with clear presentation, truth, logic and simple guidance. As a carpenter and generally, I like to keep things honest, simple and to the point. I was told during my JNCO course (several decades ago) that the first rule of instruction is ‘tell the truth’. It can require more work at the start, to get your facts right, but is always the better (and easier) way to go.
where were u 20 years ago when i had to learn all this the hard way. you know its not that you know how to do it the right way thats impresive, its your understanding of why its the right way thats impressive and very rair.
Thanks for sharing Randy. Summed up well. We sure can over complicate things with a whole handful of tools for measuring, when the chamber fit/bolt cycling, is the best tool there is. Cheers mate.
Sir you have earned a couple of subscribers. Keep it up I enjoy watching and listening to someone so passionate and knowledgeable of their work. Thank you!
Thanks Bobby Jo Rogers! I appreciate your comment. We have more videos taped and coming out with, roughly, one a week. I am noting viewer feedback for more video ideas. "Bullet smithing". A good term. Thanks again.
Well done sir. That was the most clear, concise, easy to understand instruction on the proper way to set up a full length die that I’ve ever heard. Got a sub from me.
The only way you're going to get repeatable consistent resizing is by using a headspace comparator so that you know exactly how far you're pushing the shoulder back and you can tell if you're getting close to a case head separation because you'll start seeing a light line show up right above the case head on you brass. Also if you hunt with a gas gun like I do at times only way to ensure function in the field is you have to push that shoulder back a little further then what you can get away with in a bolt gun but you still don't want to oversize your brass because you're going to shorten the life span of that brass like you mentioned. I get what you're saying on some of this but consistency is king with handloading in order to make good ammo and if I can have a way to measure my brass to ensure all of it is being resized the exact same regardless if it's competition or hunting ammo I can't see a single negative in that. It also allows people who are new to reloading know they're doing it right because they're not going by feel or eye they can physically measure it...
I'd always loaded for .308 in a semi-auto and ran the sizing die down against the ram. I learned to accept the occasional head separation. Now that I have a bolt action rifle and am getting serious about sizing and seating depth and bullet/ogive contacting the lands, I'm in a different world altogether. Glad to have found The Real Gunsmith site. It's like sitting here with my cup of coffee and having my buddy The Real Gunsmith talking to me to prevent me from doing something stupid while I am starting to load for accuracy and consistency. You're making it pretty dang easy to understand WHY and HOW it's done. Now I'll go get a warm up on my coffee and finish listening.
My dad and uncle referred to that slight bolt tightness as crush. Been setting my dies up like that for a long time. But, your explanation gives it meaning. Thank you.
Thank you for taking the time to share the knowledge and wisdom you have acquired over many years. You revealed techniques which happened to be the first time I have heard it explained, and you did it so clearly and in such manner that there could be no other way to properly accomplish a correct result. Again I thank you sincerely.
I've just started watching your videos and they are among the best instructional hand loading videos I've seen. I have hand loaded for over 25 years and I am not an expert at hand loading but do recognize you really know what you are talking about. Thank you for taking the time to make these.
I enjoyed your video. My father taught me how to handload and his procedure was exactly as you described. Throughout my 31 years of handloading I've been able to reuse brass multiple times.
Thanks for your knowledge of a lifetime! I recently began reloads on a 7mmRemMag, after 30 rounds, I struggled to get under 1 inch groups. Many fliers...(it kicks like a mule, real light gun). I want to try out your method with my brass, and see if accuracy can be improved. I'd suppose there's no reason to buy a neck sizer now. I was using Nosler virgin ready to load brass. Years ago I worked at Nosler for a while, extruding jackets for many of their ballistic tips, e-tip, and partition, REALLY interesting job. One thing I was blown away by was constantly randomly checking the concentricity of the jackets, which would reduce accuracy much in a way like the neck of a case being misaligned to the body.
Randy, Your a grumpy old crank and I love it. You remind me of the old timers who taught me well growing up on ranches in Calif. Lots of ass chewins, And I'm grateful for every one "YA GET IT?" 🤠
I am going into reloading rifle cartridges soon. I've done shotshells for over 20 years without a misfire. I am going to use your advice from your videos from here on in. I can learn from my mistakes but just as soon learn from others reps as a safe shortcut.
Randy, another excellent video. Who could argue with common sense. I now understand why I have had case head separation and I wondered why the head space problem happened. It is (was) my mis-guided reloading practices I will follow your guidelines and build improved handloads. Thanks and keep these excellent videos coming..
I'm really liking your videos. Very informative. Half way through I was going to ask about neck sizing then you explained it better than I've ever heard. Great work.
Thanks for the info, Randy. I've spent a small fortune on gizmos chasing accuracy. Sometimes to no avail. The headspace issue and case life has been a major issue. Thanks, again, for clearing up this important point.
This has been a very helpful video. It was humbling to realize I have only been a reloader the past few years and not a handloader. Please keep the knowledge coming. I would be really interested in hearing some handloading (or in my case reloading), rifle building, and long range shooting advice for magnum medium and big bore rifles. I know they are not that relevant in North America but I’ve read too many White Hunter adventure stories and I’ve heard plenty of gunshow and online wisdom/tall tales to justify the usage for something like a .375 H&H on most big game under certain circumstances. Be great to hear what you think. If not, thanks for another informative video.
This video is correct if the case is only to be fired in the same rifle every time. If there is a chance that the reloaded ammo will be fired in another firearm then full length resized cases will ensure proper feeding.
Thanks Randy. Before adjusting my new die I thought I would see how you did it and you do it exactly how I was showed by my Uncle 20 year's ago.thankyou👍
Chris Tilley Yeaj me too.All these years ive been doing just what he said not to do.Never had a problem so I guess i got lucky.GONNA DO IT THE RIGHT WAY FROM NOW ON. THSNKS RANDY.
Redding and RCBS now make different shell holder heights to do exactly what is described here. That way its more precise than screwing the die up and down by who knows how much. Bottom the die on the +0.010 shell holder, and work down from there in 2thou increments.
Hey Randy.... Thank you for your Extreme Knowledge and sharing it with us !! I've only been hand loading for 2 1/2 years now. However, I've been doing that exact method for my bolt guns as you described with the die adjustment and I use the Redding Instant Indicator for all rifle calibers I load, to help with my consistency on resizing. (13 calibers). I'm using the Redding T-7 press. Man....after hearing you mention your Absolute Expert ways for precision loading. I feel a lot more confident of my precision hand loads! All has been going perfectly. Really Appreciate "your" time to help us out. Love your Videos! Thanks again. Scott
I have always hesitated to call myself an expert at anything I do even though others have called me an expert in my job and at other things. In the world of shooting and reloading I have knowledge, but I would classify myself as one of those reloaders that is striving to achieve the knowledge and experience of a handloader. I learn something every time I reload for accuracy, precision, and consistency. Thank you for always being so willing to share your experience and knowledge with us. You have no idea how helpful you are to the community even though you hate 6.5 Creedmoor greater than any other human alive.
I understood Randy's assessment of the 6.5 Creedmore as a target load and wonderfully accurate at long range. And as a hunting load as being a good 300yd caliber for deer and totally lacking the energy for elk and tougher game. Bullet construction, shot placement and energy is what humanely takes game. I resist the "long range" hype that is going around today and strive to get as close as possible. My longest shot to date with my 257wby is 425yds on a deer and 200 yds on elk, using 100gr Barnes TTSX, kills like lightning!
After hearing your instructions on the proper way to size brass I feel like throwing away my reloads and start over. Definitely will remember what you said and will follow.
I absolutely agree with you. I like to bump that shoulder back .001 to .002. just to get that bolt to close a tiny bit snugly.. Set that resizing die to exactly the way you said to. Very good video!
Like your title say's. "The Real Gunsmith" Funny how I've never heard any other demos mention this method. I always tested my resized shells in the gun before proceeding to load. I start snug and adjust accordingly. Bravo. I just mentioned to a fellow who had problems chambering tight shells and was talking head space. I suggested , try your cases in the gun first before you reload. Dial down if to tight. Yes sir you be right. I caught on years ago when I was popping the heals off of 30/30 loads. Thank-You.
I used to what he just said with no issue. I started to listen to the pros with FL and shoulder bump and and got my first head case separation. Now going back
Wow. Case rolling on a smooth flat surface to determine bullet wobble. Brilliant. ! I had a case so off that the round wouldn't chamber. (My fault, I hurried the seating on this one round, bent the neck askew). Telltale sign was a scrape on one side of bullet. I always chamber (safely) every hunting round before a hunt. You might be the only Patreon sight I sub to! Great 👍 stuff!
Fantastic information. Thank you for sharing your expertise. I primarily reload straight wall pistol where this isn't as big of an issue, but it's always good to learn and grow.
Randy- I've been reloading off and on for 45 years. In that time I've accumulated various little gizmos to enable me to accomplish what you've said about sizing cases in this video. I've just tried the method you've outlined here with both a .280 Ackley and a .300 Weatherby. I didn't even have to trim either of them How simple!, but then most profound things are. Thanks so much and all the best to you.
Ive always used a neck sizing die for fired cases on a specific rifle. with the exception of lever actions and semi autos, those I'll full length size every time.
I couldn’t agree more. There is so much for a newcomer and not so new to learn, for others could you suggest a couple good books that cover the best aspects to follow. My father had a lot of books that I read! For those of you that are relatively new to Loading..stick with it, it’s a great hobby!
Wow just subscribed to this channel this guy is one of those old timers who has been there and done it all. Thanks so much for sharing a lifetime of knowledge. knowledge from people such as yourself is critical to be passed on to the next generation
Thank you so much Ivesy85. They talented young man doing the video recording and editing initially came to us to do website work. He felt Randy's knowledge needed shared, and I [his wife] totally agree. The response has been overwhelmingly positive and we so appreciate you all that watch, subscribe, comment and share. God bless and good shooting!
So just to be correct....die in till it touches the holder back off 1/4 turn, lube and run through die then try it in my chamber, adjust die in further lube and size again until it fits in the chamber with a slight resistance when the bolt is approximately 2/3 closed? Gosh I love your videos, nothing speaks like experience. Excellent video!
The Gun Collector NRA not yet. I've got a bunch of .243 win. brass to load up but I'm waiting for some Reloader 26 to hit the doorstep. Once that comes I'll be trying this method. I've always just adjusted to the die manufacturers spec and checked with a go no go gauge. It always works and the rounds chamber fine this way, but I see what Mr. Selby is saying about the head space and head separation.
The Gun Collector NRA: It works, just go slow and be very careful and have patience. To become proficient it takes quite awhile, as time passes you will develop a feel for what is or isn't right. Reloading is an art and only time and experience will work. There are so many things to learn and it all depends on your commitment as to how well you will do. Good luck.
@@dukeman7595 Thank you for this comment... I am new to "reloading" and it seems like most videos and information is just geared toward pushing out quantity and not quality.. I decided to start hand loading or what another guy here called ""Bullet smithing"",,, because I am tired of ammo shortages. also since my military days I have always shot expert, I have been dabbling in long range shooting for many years and finally decided I want a more accurate load than a factory can offer. Your comment reflects that good things take time and concentration. Not wham bam thank you mama reloaders who are more likely to blow their face off. God bless.
This is great info for target shooters hunters who will be using only thier ammo in only one rifle. I load the same 5.56 ammo for several AR15's I own and if a fellow shooter needs ammo they can expect someone to lend them some. So for these reasons and others I full length size everything, all the time. The same goes for hunting. I'll intentionally carry the same caliber of rifle as my hunting partners, just so I can lend them or they me a couple rounds if need be. At 60, I've loaded and fired a couple hundred thousand rounds and had only one case head separation, in an old .303 British Enfield. Brass is cheap if not free from local ranges, so if a piece of brass has any deformity or wear that I can detect it becomes scrap, and I normally scrap a bucket full every year. Maybe I'm just lucky. I don't care for neck sizing either. I've never found any benefit in accuracy with it. Thanks! JMOFWIW
I have my fathers Rem 721 270 and his Sako Finnbear 7mag, (RIP) he had me help and taught me reloading at 10yo. But to this day I’m using the same brass in the early 1960s just for these individual guns. Also still use his set dummy rounds for sizing and using same nosler bullets. Now with modern bullets and weight, I then need to make a new dummy round for such.
I know this video is 5 years old but I only neck size until I have to FL size. I use RCBS or Redding Elite die sets with bushings. Once I fire rounds through a rifle, I will see if they easily rechamber when I get home. If they do, I anneal, neck size only with the proper bushing to set neck OD 0.002 tighter than when loaded. I do not use the expander. I got rid of those decades ago due to causing runout. Then I check OAL, trim accordingly, then rechamber every case in that rifle. Then I check for runout, which, is extremely rare to get any or any over 0.001. This method has served me well for many years and has produced the most accurate ammo I load with the most consistency. When I'm testing the fired cases to see if they rechamber and they are too snug, or I get a clicker when lifting the bolt, I will put those in a different batch and FL size them properly as indicated in this video. Luckily I learned that many decades ago as well. More recently, I bought and used 21st Century turning mandrels to expand case mouths to hopefully improve uniformity and I suppose it does but out to 560 yards I haven't noticed the benefit using those v just sizing with neck bushing dies and no expander
Thanks for this vid . I moved from m96 sweed to a zastava m70 in sweed . The m96 chamber was very generous compared to the m70 . Good to know I was on the right track when I set up the FL resize. Will be neck sizing after the 1st shoot .
After a few years of testing the Lee Collet neck sizing dies in various cartridges I can attest to them working perfectly. I've been handloading for 31 years. Once a round is chamber formed to a specific rifle I collet neck size, trim, de-burr and load. Second firing I anneal the cases then repeat. Each rifle has tightened its' groups and case life is extended sometimes to 10 loadings.
Hi Randy. You quickly became one of my favorite channels online. I love talking to experience rather than theory. I do have one question about your load development and chronographing it. Where i work, there, there are a few engineers that are no longer allowed to talk to me until they prove that they physically measured something. Could care less if it is with a grade school ruler, until they physically measure something, they aren't allowed to talk to me anymore. So with that said, on working out my process for developing loads, I'm of the mind that math is great, until you leave the lab, then life happens. Like you were saying in another video about how most people don't take elevation and air density into their calculations. So how do you verify that your math at 100/200/500 yards is right? meaning the math may say this bullet should be moving at 2200fps at 300 yards, but do you actually measure it? Common sense tells me you should be able to calculate velocity based on bullet drop at distance, but without thinking hard i can come up with half a dozen variables (up to and including rotation of the earth and the angle you shot relative to the equator) that could affect bullet drop and blow your math, How do you do it?
If your firing these rounds in the same bolt action rifle that they were fired in, this is great advise. You could get a life time of “reloads” sizing brass for the same rifle using your method. RCBS used to make neck sizing only dies back in the day, I don’t know if they still do. However, if your reloading for a semi automatic rifle, you’ll need to full length size more than as you describe. Example, the M1 may even need a “small base” resizing die to properly feed and chamber.
I have been reloading for 40+ years and I shot 3/4" groups at 100 yards and was satisfied with that for the areas that I hunt. After applying your technique I've shot an honest 5 shot group that is 0.0640 with my 6.5 swedishmauser. Oh by the way I'm not getting on the bandwagon for 6.5 creedmore. I know what my sweed will do! :) Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
I’m probably a little late as I just started watching your videos today. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I’ve been partial resizing cases as you have described here for the past 40 years. I do however use neck sizing for the first 2-3 firings until the case is snug. I seldom shoot full throttle loads, usually 5% under, so case life is very long. I’ve quit counting on some brass. I will now have to try the partial sizing during the first couple firings to see if it makes a difference in accuracy. I’ve never noticed a difference when I’ve changed over on the 2nd or third loads from neck only to partial.
What surprises me is that more folk don't know these things. Almost anyone that reloads the .303 British for a Lee Enfield rifle learns to use similar techniques if they want more than 3 reloads out of a case. I have got dozens without issues. Same for the 7 x 57 I used to have; after 20-odd reloads the cases were still within length tolerances and functioning perfectly.
The Real Gunsmith thank you for for great videos. I know you can only fit in so much information in short video and this one being only introduction have not touch on all other aspects of reloading. I was hoping that you might be able to do advance video for very accurate benchrest shooting and cover everything from start to finished round. Perhaps you might do full presentation by actually doing the whole process that way it will be also more helpful for other members who are just starting the art of hand loading. It will be great benefit for everyone and especially for beginners to learn good habits from day one. Thank you very much and I'm looking forward to new videos 🤗👌👍
Mobydickss we will be working, shortly, on getting out more detailed videos on our Patreon channel for $10/month or more subscribers. I am not sure of the time frame for a video on this, as we've not filmed it yet, but it is on the list of "to do's". www.patreon.com/therealgunsmith Thanks for watching! Good shooting.
I don’t shoot anymore thanks to UK laws been a pain in the ass but the process I found the most accurate was to FL size the case so the shoulders were resized 1-2thou. I then used to Collet size the neck with a custom sized mandrel to ensure consistent neck straightness and tension. You are so right so many reloaders FL over size and it does nothing for the brass or accuracy
Right on Real Gun Smith. You do not want to over work the case. This work hardens the brass, causes fatigue, crack formation and premature case head separation. Toward the bottom of the case the brass is necessarily harder and stronger than at the neck. ( Annealing the necks is another topic) Now when you fire the round the case expands and rebounds a smidgen. Depending on dimensional conformance neck sizing prevents overworking the entire case. As long as you have smooth ejection ( no heavy bolt lift etc.) and feed after reload full length resizing back to SAMMI specs ( virgin brass) can create problems. But you have to be meticulous on die set up. Also, you can use the Hornady Concentricity Tool to check the runout of the entire case. You should check this occasionally to be sure you have conformance along the centerline and your die is accurately and repeatedly resizing.
Very good info here. I have a headspace guages that I use to measure my shoulder bump. I bump .001-.002 shoulder bump and that seems to work well. However I'm going to switch to .0005 bump
That is the ideal method Mr Garrett, the way i was setting that was with a single stoke if the case was coming back .002" back i was locking the die, if was not correct i was doing some adjustment on the die and i was trying a new fired case again because the same case was springing back. If you adjust your die on a case you have resise two times or three the same time, then your die will be set wrong and on a single stroke the the shoulder will set back .003" to .004" back. If you don't want the case to crack and last longer you just don't shoot your rifle. There is no technic can cross human's mind that i have not try and careful test it. Bambing the shoulder is ideal method for the best shooting. On very light bullets you my try .001 and don't try to set your die to .0005 . Stay away from extrimish ideas because they will make things worse. Hardness of brass i very importing and the brass gets harder every time you shoot it so be careful on neck tension, that is extremely important.
George from another comment you seem to think I don't know what I am talking about as some information wasn't included in the video above. You told me to read your comment below so I could learn something. Actually there is more about resizing and the whole issue. This video is 101. There is nothing in comment below unknown to me. Research shows most videos, especially with technical information, have an average short watch time. The length of time varies, but it is short. So there will only be so many minutes with only so much information on each video. So Garret, stay tuned.
@@TheRealGunsmith I actually enjoy the longer videos myself. GunBlue does great videos that can be well over an hour long and I love it! You can really get a good idea of concepts and understand WHAT you're doing, not just how to do it from watching detailed videos. But unfortunately, I think you must agree with me that folks these days don't have the attention span to sit and watch and soak it in from a professional.
Good intentions I'm sure though I would prob inform viewers to remove the ejector and firing pin not to get any false readings, one other issue is brass spring back those who don't anneal every firing or so I've sized brass back 2thou that's spring back to the same measurement after 24hrs so if someone only sizes brass 1thou to fit their chamber that's an issue waiting to happen
Thanks for your knowledge sir you’re one of the best by the way I’m just starting to reload i’m on a fixed income find a piece of the time I’m ready to start buying my dies and powder etc. I wanna listen to a lot more of your reloading videos it makes sense how you explain it I’ve watching several videos can you explain for a dummy like me I understand your Videos
Haven't read all the comments yet, but will. I guess I'm one of those guys that takes more measurements - but in essence, I believe I'm accomplishing the same. I use a comparator type measuring tool to measure to the fired case datum point on the case shoulder. I've found a once fired case will contract slightly in the chamber, just a couple thousands, and chamber just fine without pushing the shoulder back at all. But that same case after being fired several times starts to work harden, and will not contract back as much, and start to become harder to chamber. So I measure to the datum liine - adjust my fl die to where it just starts pushing the shoulder back, and then back it off again to the point the shoulder is not being pushed back at all on a once fired case. Lock that die in, label it for that specific gun / chamber, and document the setting, place that documentation in the die box. That way, when the cases have been fired several times, and the brass starts to lose elasticity, the die will size back to the once fired dimensions. Any over-sized cases from the above steps are put in a separate pile, and reloaded, shot, so they can be resized to the exact spec's of a once fired case. I measure my cases for concentricity, but what I've found is those measurements just kind of tell me the quality of that specific fl die. Some dies are less concentric than other dies, even of the same brand. Being diligent in reloading steps seems to yield concentric measurements that are basically the same shell after shell. If there is too much variance - get a different FL die and the results change - consistent again, but different than the other FL die. I have my reservations about pulling an expander ball back through the neck - as when the expander ball is being pulled through the neck, the case is no longer supported the full case length. While it may not make much sense other than adding steps to a reloading hobby, I'm getting more comfortable with trimming the case necks to a consistent thickness, and using a button to size the case mouth for more consistent bullet tension. It stands to reason the case of more supported in a Neck sizing die than a button sized neck FL die. Again, I'm experimenting with steps, but I've become a believer in a Body die, then neck size die as a 2 step process. More important than any of the above, bullet seating can be done with many different tools, the most important to be that the seater fully supports the cartridge during the seating process. What I've gravitated to is the LE Wilson seating dies. The case is completely supported, and then the bullet is pushed down into the supported case from above, instead of pushing the case up into the bullet.
Randy, I have a 25/06 that I had made up on a 1938 M98 action and a Douglas barrel by Flaigs in Pennsylvania in 1968 when it was a wildcat cartridge. I'm now getting rounds that don't fire, blown primers sometime and I had a rim split. I've found out the chamber length is 2.588" If chamber length should be .010-.020 longer than the suggested trim to length, this chamber is .074 too long. If I resize .270 cases, which are longer than .25/06 cases, my case would be 2.544". Add .020", the chamber would be 2.564" to be correct. Doing this, the excess chamber length would be reduced to .024. Not great but alot better than .074". I've checked and a NO GO and a FIELD gauge will close on the bolt. I don't have a heck of a lot of cases fired thru this gun and I'm baffled why all of a sudden I'm getting these problems. Shoot straight, Fred
Thanks for the overwhelming response to this video, as well as our other videos on The Real Gunsmith Channel! We appreciate your comments and questions. Due to the volume of the comments and questions, some which would take some time to answer, we just don’t have the time to respond to them all. However many of the questions will be answered in future videos.
Our first priority is to our paying clients. Writing out long answers would take time away from that, and I won’t put them “on hold” to post long answers here.
If you have questions about getting gun work done or a custom rifle built, contact us at randyselby@randyscustomrifles.com. I have a wide range of prices for custom rifles so even the “average Joe or Josephine” can get into a custom package, just as accurate as the higher end rifles.
For our detractors, we appreciate your difference of opinion, too, but I stand by my decades of experience.
To all of you, thanks again for your overwhelming support. Stay tuned! God bless you all. Randy and Cathy
The Real Gunsmith , Randy sir, I realize this next question has nothing to do with this video, but I hope you can help.
Let's say that you had a scope with only (1) one full turn of they elevation turret & it equaled 14 minutes of elevation, the scope is zeroed at 200 yards & it's on a .300 win mag 24" barrel shooting a 175gr.tipped boattail (b.c. - .508) @ 3,120 fps, "?" @ what yardage would the 14 minutes of elevation run out at. How far
(yards) hill this allow you to correct for ? ? ? ? ?
Thank you in advance for any help you can provide....
You'll run out with this load at around 750 yards with 14" of elevation.
Good shooting!
I'm somewhat new to reloading but finding the feel method works for me when full length sizing to achieve minimal head space without bumping shoulder too much. Apparently your video indicates I do not have to take firing pin out on my rifles without control feed 3 way safeties. That's great news. Wonder if you concern yourself with expander ball creating run out on the case neck. I only do my 325wsm rifles for now but wonder if I should use bushing dies,or honed dies without expander,or just sand down expander for proper neck tension.
I use the feel method as you describe in the video. Some say to take firing pin out of bolt. With the firing pin (no camming of lugs) it is suggested to turn die down till there is no resistance of bolt handle and it is capable of dropping with no resistance(or barely none). I see that I don't have to take bolt out with the feel method for minimal head space. Thanks again !
Randy thanks for your advice I just wish there were RUclips when I started reloading. Coming from a family of hunters near small rural town in the Northern Cape South Africa I bought a Lee Anniversary reloading kit age 13 at that time I was the only one reloading in the district so I couldn't ask anyone for help the first couple of loads was a disaster but after 25 years I managed to get things right and bought better equipment as time progressed but I learned so much from you and thanks you for sharing your Knowledge It's really appreciated. Kind Regards Christo Combrink
This is the kinda guy I could set at a table with a bottle of whiskey and listen and learn for hours
This is a great video. What would be awesome would be a reloading video that gives us a visual demonstration of what mistakes he says people make followed up by what to actually do correctly.
"You sure do have a headspace problem, it isn't your rifle, it's you" 😂. Love it
There certainly are a lot of people out there with too much space in their heads...
Subscribed for this very reason....CLARITY AND WISDOM FROM DECADES OF EXPERIENCE IN MULTIPLE CALIBERS.....
THANK YOU.
This is the best description of how to adjust sizing die that I have seen.Thanks for sharing this.
You are welcome. And thanks for taking the time to respond.
Do you have a video series of your reloading process from start to finish? It would really be a great help for people who are just starting to learn how to do this. This is a great channel!
I have more information on my Patreon channel, also under The Real Gunsmith.
Thanks for watching.
I was so proud of my neck sizing die . As you said I rolled that round on a flat surface and saw the wobble . Great lesson!
I’m so glad your doing this. I learn so much from you. I’ve been reloading for 20 years. I learn so many things from you. Thank you
Great to hear!Thanks for watching and learning. May you and yours stay well and safe.
I was doing it wrong for over 30 years because I went by what was written on the rcbs die instructions. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and thank you for being a great American!
Josh Laubach , same here. I started reloading in the late 60's.
3:53 Exactly! I used to be a member of a Marlin website I will not disclose the name, and they was saying how they get about 7 firings per rifle case. When I told them I have cases with over 100 firings, I was trolled by the site mod and his fanboys.
I figured if they weren't interested in relaying useful information, I didn't need to be there.
I've been aware of the issues of shoulder depth and have neck sized with that in mind, but you have explained this in a way that sets me straight. Thank you Randy for this series of videos and sharing your extensive knowledge. After all, knowledge is the greatest gift you can ever give to another human being and becomes a true legacy to be remembered when you are gone. By the way, I'm just down the road on the other side of BB Reservoir from you. I'll keep an eye out for you around town and thank you proper if we meet.
Glad you learned something to help.
We look forward to meeting a "neighbor".
Sir, I’ve been loading ammunition for 40 years and very much appreciate this particular video and your conversation concerning proper loading ,I see a few of the errors of my way and I very much appreciate the knowledge that you’ve given many of us to help us Properly load our own ammunition to get the most out of our particular rifles, I thank you👍
Outstanding! I'd like to see you do a video in your shop...58 years of collecting gear, must be something to see!
There are some of the videos taken in my shop. Besides my collection I inherited my Granddad's shop. So I am well set up. There will be future videos in the shop, too.
I second that!!
Thank you. Another good video with clear presentation, truth, logic and simple guidance. As a carpenter and generally, I like to keep things honest, simple and to the point. I was told during my JNCO course (several decades ago) that the first rule of instruction is ‘tell the truth’. It can require more work at the start, to get your facts right, but is always the better (and easier) way to go.
where were u 20 years ago when i had to learn all this the hard way. you know its not that you know how to do it the right way thats impresive, its your understanding of why its the right way thats impressive and very rair.
DONK3YPUNCH33 I agree. True mastery here with understanding WHY you do everything
I love the no nonsense to the point nature of your videos.
Thanks for sharing Randy. Summed up well. We sure can over complicate things with a whole handful of tools for measuring, when the chamber fit/bolt cycling, is the best tool there is. Cheers mate.
Sir you have earned a couple of subscribers. Keep it up I enjoy watching and listening to someone so passionate and knowledgeable of their work. Thank you!
Sir there’s a serious need for your first hand knowledge of this trade of bullet smithing if you will. Hope you keep them coming it’s needed .
Thanks Bobby Jo Rogers! I appreciate your comment. We have more videos taped and coming out with, roughly, one a week. I am noting viewer feedback for more video ideas. "Bullet smithing". A good term. Thanks again.
Well done sir. That was the most clear, concise, easy to understand instruction on the proper way to set up a full length die that I’ve ever heard. Got a sub from me.
The only way you're going to get repeatable consistent resizing is by using a headspace comparator so that you know exactly how far you're pushing the shoulder back and you can tell if you're getting close to a case head separation because you'll start seeing a light line show up right above the case head on you brass. Also if you hunt with a gas gun like I do at times only way to ensure function in the field is you have to push that shoulder back a little further then what you can get away with in a bolt gun but you still don't want to oversize your brass because you're going to shorten the life span of that brass like you mentioned. I get what you're saying on some of this but consistency is king with handloading in order to make good ammo and if I can have a way to measure my brass to ensure all of it is being resized the exact same regardless if it's competition or hunting ammo I can't see a single negative in that. It also allows people who are new to reloading know they're doing it right because they're not going by feel or eye they can physically measure it...
Your sizer die change dimensions from case to case after being fired in the same rifle?
As a match Rifle shooter and reloader i thank you for your expert reload tips.
I'd always loaded for .308 in a semi-auto and ran the sizing die down against the ram. I learned to accept the occasional head separation. Now that I have a bolt action rifle and am getting serious about sizing and seating depth and bullet/ogive contacting the lands, I'm in a different world altogether. Glad to have found The Real Gunsmith site. It's like sitting here with my cup of coffee and having my buddy The Real Gunsmith talking to me to prevent me from doing something stupid while I am starting to load for accuracy and consistency. You're making it pretty dang easy to understand WHY and HOW it's done. Now I'll go get a warm up on my coffee and finish listening.
My dad and uncle referred to that slight bolt tightness as crush. Been setting my dies up like that for a long time. But, your explanation gives it meaning. Thank you.
Thank you for taking the time to share the knowledge and wisdom you have acquired over many years. You revealed techniques which happened to be the first time I have heard it explained, and you did it so clearly and in such manner that there could be no other way to properly accomplish a correct result. Again I thank you sincerely.
I've just started watching your videos and they are among the best instructional hand loading videos I've seen. I have hand loaded for over 25 years and I am not an expert at hand loading but do recognize you really know what you are talking about. Thank you for taking the time to make these.
Thanks nmelkhunter1. I appreciate your input. I do hope to help those getting started and "old timers" like yourself.
Good shooting!
You sharing your wealth of knowledge on this subject is a tremendous gift to people like me who want to do things the right way! Thank you!
I enjoyed your video.
My father taught me how to handload and his procedure was exactly as you described.
Throughout my 31 years of handloading I've been able to reuse brass multiple times.
Randy, many informative videos of yours have given me valuable information about the differences in the accuracy world of a rifle. Thank you!
Thanks for your knowledge of a lifetime!
I recently began reloads on a 7mmRemMag, after 30 rounds, I struggled to get under 1 inch groups. Many fliers...(it kicks like a mule, real light gun). I want to try out your method with my brass, and see if accuracy can be improved. I'd suppose there's no reason to buy a neck sizer now.
I was using Nosler virgin ready to load brass. Years ago I worked at Nosler for a while, extruding jackets for many of their ballistic tips, e-tip, and partition, REALLY interesting job. One thing I was blown away by was constantly randomly checking the concentricity of the jackets, which would reduce accuracy much in a way like the neck of a case being misaligned to the body.
Really appreciate you sharing your experience. Never to late. to learn. Thanks .
Randy, Your a grumpy old crank and I love it. You remind me of the old timers who taught me well growing up on ranches in Calif. Lots of ass chewins, And I'm grateful for every one
"YA GET IT?" 🤠
I am going into reloading rifle cartridges soon. I've done shotshells for over 20 years without a misfire. I am going to use your advice from your videos from here on in. I can learn from my mistakes but just as soon learn from others reps as a safe shortcut.
Randy, another excellent video. Who could argue with common sense. I now understand why I have had case head separation and I wondered why the head space problem happened. It is (was) my mis-guided reloading practices I will follow your guidelines and build improved handloads. Thanks and keep these excellent videos coming..
I'm really liking your videos. Very informative. Half way through I was going to ask about neck sizing then you explained it better than I've ever heard. Great work.
Thanks for the info, Randy. I've spent a small fortune on gizmos chasing accuracy. Sometimes to no avail. The headspace issue and case life has been a major issue. Thanks, again, for clearing up this important point.
Thank you for sharing 5 plus decades of knowledge.
sir you are a wealth of information can't get enough of your videos fantastic job
Thank you. I appreciate your feedback here and on other videos. It makes it all worthwhile.
This has been a very helpful video. It was humbling to realize I have only been a reloader the past few years and not a handloader. Please keep the knowledge coming. I would be really interested in hearing some handloading (or in my case reloading), rifle building, and long range shooting advice for magnum medium and big bore rifles. I know they are not that relevant in North America but I’ve read too many White Hunter adventure stories and I’ve heard plenty of gunshow and online wisdom/tall tales to justify the usage for something like a .375 H&H on most big game under certain circumstances. Be great to hear what you think. If not, thanks for another informative video.
I appreciate your comment. We have more videos taped and coming out with, roughly, one a week. I am noting viewer feedback for more video ideas.
It’s about time somebody cleared the muddy waters about Reloading! Thanks
This video is correct if the case is only to be fired in the same rifle every time. If there is a chance that the reloaded ammo will be fired in another firearm then full length resized cases will ensure proper feeding.
Best info anywhesre on neck vs full lenth sizing. I handload and knew each one but not the whys. Very,very valuable info. Thank you so much.
I realized years ago I had a "headspace" issue in my head. Randy is right. I learned this method the hard way, been shooting 7/16" groups since
You make total sense ! I love your videos ! You’re a huge asset to the gun community !
Thanks Randy. Before adjusting my new die I thought I would see how you did it and you do it exactly how I was showed by my Uncle 20 year's ago.thankyou👍
Thanks The Real Gunsmith. You've changed the way I approach sizing.
Chris Tilley Yeaj me too.All these years ive been doing just what he said not to do.Never had a problem so I guess i got lucky.GONNA DO IT THE RIGHT WAY FROM NOW ON. THSNKS RANDY.
Redding and RCBS now make different shell holder heights to do exactly what is described here. That way its more precise than screwing the die up and down by who knows how much. Bottom the die on the +0.010 shell holder, and work down from there in 2thou increments.
Hey Randy....
Thank you for your Extreme Knowledge and sharing it with us !! I've only been hand loading for 2 1/2 years now. However, I've been doing that exact method for my bolt guns as you described with the die adjustment and I use the Redding Instant Indicator for all rifle calibers I load, to help with my consistency on resizing. (13 calibers). I'm using the Redding T-7 press.
Man....after hearing you mention your Absolute Expert ways for precision loading. I feel a lot more confident of my precision hand loads! All has been going perfectly.
Really Appreciate "your" time to help us out. Love your Videos! Thanks again.
Scott
I have always hesitated to call myself an expert at anything I do even though others have called me an expert in my job and at other things. In the world of shooting and reloading I have knowledge, but I would classify myself as one of those reloaders that is striving to achieve the knowledge and experience of a handloader. I learn something every time I reload for accuracy, precision, and consistency. Thank you for always being so willing to share your experience and knowledge with us. You have no idea how helpful you are to the community even though you hate 6.5 Creedmoor greater than any other human alive.
Thanks! But you are missing my point on the 6.5.
I understood Randy's assessment of the 6.5 Creedmore as a target load and wonderfully accurate at long range. And as a hunting load as being a good 300yd caliber for deer and totally lacking the energy for elk and tougher game. Bullet construction, shot placement and energy is what humanely takes game. I resist the "long range" hype that is going around today and strive to get as close as possible. My longest shot to date with my 257wby is 425yds on a deer and 200 yds on elk, using 100gr Barnes TTSX, kills like lightning!
This was the first video of yours that I ever watched. I knew then it wouldn't be the last. Great info. Thank You.
I’m just starting and in joy listening to you,your a very smart man
After hearing your instructions on the proper way to size brass I feel like throwing away my reloads and start over. Definitely will remember what you said and will follow.
Randy i love your videos. I would enjoy the chance to meet you. What i enjoy is your no BS talk.
I absolutely agree with you. I like to bump that shoulder back .001 to .002. just to get that bolt to close a tiny bit snugly.. Set that resizing die to exactly the way you said to. Very good video!
Mr. Selby you are a brilliant gentleman I've learned so much paying attention to your various videos thank you Sir.
I have been doing it wrong for a lot of years because I read the instructions I will try this it makes sense I have a lot to learn
Well done Randy, any one who has watched this should learn from it. Please.
Like your title say's. "The Real Gunsmith" Funny how I've never heard any other demos mention this method. I always tested my resized shells in the gun before proceeding to load. I start snug and adjust accordingly. Bravo. I just mentioned to a fellow who had problems chambering tight shells and was talking head space. I suggested , try your cases in the gun first before you reload. Dial down if to tight. Yes sir you be right. I caught on years ago when I was popping the heals off of 30/30 loads.
Thank-You.
I used to what he just said with no issue. I started to listen to the pros with FL and shoulder bump and and got my first head case separation. Now going back
Wow. Case rolling on a smooth flat surface to determine bullet wobble. Brilliant. ! I had a case so off that the round wouldn't chamber. (My fault, I hurried the seating on this one round, bent the neck askew). Telltale sign was a scrape on one side of bullet. I always chamber (safely) every hunting round before a hunt. You might be the only Patreon sight I sub to! Great 👍 stuff!
Fantastic information. Thank you for sharing your expertise. I primarily reload straight wall pistol where this isn't as big of an issue, but it's always good to learn and grow.
Randy-
I've been reloading off and on for 45 years. In that time I've accumulated various little gizmos to enable me to accomplish what you've said about sizing cases in this video. I've just tried the method you've outlined here with both a .280 Ackley and a .300 Weatherby. I didn't even have to trim either of them How simple!, but then most profound things are. Thanks so much and all the best to you.
Thanks watching and for sharing your experience.
Good shooting!
Stay well and safe.
@@TheRealGunsmith Forgive, I'm old and had forgotten trying it before. What day is it? LOL
Another great informative video. Thanks Randy for sharing your knowledge.
This video is amazing. Wow I need more of these!! I wish you were my neighbor!!!
Randy you being a machinest will only understand this just like my self you hit the nail on the head
Ive always used a neck sizing die for fired cases on a specific rifle. with the exception of lever actions and semi autos, those I'll full length size every time.
I couldn’t agree more.
There is so much for a newcomer and not so new to learn, for others could you suggest a couple good books that cover the best aspects to follow. My father had a lot of books that I read!
For those of you that are relatively new to Loading..stick with it, it’s a great hobby!
Wow just subscribed to this channel this guy is one of those old timers who has been there and done it all. Thanks so much for sharing a lifetime of knowledge. knowledge from people such as yourself is critical to be passed on to the next generation
Thank you so much Ivesy85. They talented young man doing the video recording and editing initially came to us to do website work. He felt Randy's knowledge needed shared, and I [his wife] totally agree. The response has been overwhelmingly positive and we so appreciate you all that watch, subscribe, comment and share. God bless and good shooting!
So just to be correct....die in till it touches the holder back off 1/4 turn, lube and run through die then try it in my chamber, adjust die in further lube and size again until it fits in the chamber with a slight resistance when the bolt is approximately 2/3 closed? Gosh I love your videos, nothing speaks like experience. Excellent video!
I'm curious if you tried this method I'm just starting out reloading and did it work thank you
The Gun Collector NRA not yet. I've got a bunch of .243 win. brass to load up but I'm waiting for some Reloader 26 to hit the doorstep. Once that comes I'll be trying this method. I've always just adjusted to the die manufacturers spec and checked with a go no go gauge. It always works and the rounds chamber fine this way, but I see what Mr. Selby is saying about the head space and head separation.
You are correct. Good shooting!
The Gun Collector NRA: It works, just go slow and be very careful and have patience. To become proficient it takes quite awhile, as time passes you will develop a feel for what is or isn't right. Reloading is an art and only time and experience will work. There are so many things to learn and it all depends on your commitment as to how well you will do. Good luck.
@@dukeman7595 Thank you for this comment... I am new to "reloading" and it seems like most videos and information is just geared toward pushing out quantity and not quality.. I decided to start hand loading or what another guy here called ""Bullet smithing"",,, because I am tired of ammo shortages. also since my military days I have always shot expert, I have been dabbling in long range shooting for many years and finally decided I want a more accurate load than a factory can offer. Your comment reflects that good things take time and concentration. Not wham bam thank you mama reloaders who are more likely to blow their face off. God bless.
This has been the epitome of the “ah ha” moment for me. Thank you for this explanation, makes perfect since with your description.
This is great info for target shooters hunters who will be using only thier ammo in only one rifle. I load the same 5.56 ammo for several AR15's I own and if a fellow shooter needs ammo they can expect someone to lend them some. So for these reasons and others I full length size everything, all the time. The same goes for hunting. I'll intentionally carry the same caliber of rifle as my hunting partners, just so I can lend them or they me a couple rounds if need be. At 60, I've loaded and fired a couple hundred thousand rounds and had only one case head separation, in an old .303 British Enfield. Brass is cheap if not free from local ranges, so if a piece of brass has any deformity or wear that I can detect it becomes scrap, and I normally scrap a bucket full every year. Maybe I'm just lucky. I don't care for neck sizing either. I've never found any benefit in accuracy with it. Thanks! JMOFWIW
I have my fathers Rem 721 270 and his Sako Finnbear 7mag, (RIP) he had me help and taught me reloading at 10yo. But to this day I’m using the same brass in the early 1960s just for these individual guns. Also still use his set dummy rounds for sizing and using same nosler bullets. Now with modern bullets and weight, I then need to make a new dummy round for such.
I know this video is 5 years old but I only neck size until I have to FL size. I use RCBS or Redding Elite die sets with bushings. Once I fire rounds through a rifle, I will see if they easily rechamber when I get home. If they do, I anneal, neck size only with the proper bushing to set neck OD 0.002 tighter than when loaded. I do not use the expander. I got rid of those decades ago due to causing runout. Then I check OAL, trim accordingly, then rechamber every case in that rifle. Then I check for runout, which, is extremely rare to get any or any over 0.001. This method has served me well for many years and has produced the most accurate ammo I load with the most consistency. When I'm testing the fired cases to see if they rechamber and they are too snug, or I get a clicker when lifting the bolt, I will put those in a different batch and FL size them properly as indicated in this video. Luckily I learned that many decades ago as well.
More recently, I bought and used 21st Century turning mandrels to expand case mouths to hopefully improve uniformity and I suppose it does but out to 560 yards I haven't noticed the benefit using those v just sizing with neck bushing dies and no expander
It is a good thing that fan is not anoying. I liked the rest of the video.
Thanks for this vid . I moved from m96 sweed to a zastava m70 in sweed . The m96 chamber was very generous compared to the m70 . Good to know I was on the right track when I set up the FL resize. Will be neck sizing after the 1st shoot .
Wow! Better review my procedures. Thanks much Randy,
One of my mentors gave me the same advice/education shortly after starting to reload my own back in the 80s.
After a few years of testing the Lee Collet neck sizing dies in various cartridges I can attest to them working perfectly. I've been handloading for 31 years. Once a round is chamber formed to a specific rifle I collet neck size, trim, de-burr and load. Second firing I anneal the cases then repeat. Each rifle has tightened its' groups and case life is extended sometimes to 10 loadings.
Hi Randy. You quickly became one of my favorite channels online. I love talking to experience rather than theory. I do have one question about your load development and chronographing it. Where i work, there, there are a few engineers that are no longer allowed to talk to me until they prove that they physically measured something. Could care less if it is with a grade school ruler, until they physically measure something, they aren't allowed to talk to me anymore. So with that said, on working out my process for developing loads, I'm of the mind that math is great, until you leave the lab, then life happens. Like you were saying in another video about how most people don't take elevation and air density into their calculations. So how do you verify that your math at 100/200/500 yards is right? meaning the math may say this bullet should be moving at 2200fps at 300 yards, but do you actually measure it? Common sense tells me you should be able to calculate velocity based on bullet drop at distance, but without thinking hard i can come up with half a dozen variables (up to and including rotation of the earth and the angle you shot relative to the equator) that could affect bullet drop and blow your math, How do you do it?
Thank you for sharing you info and experience on resizing cases, hopefully this will make me a better bandleader
Thank you for taking the time to bestow your knowledge!!! Thank you and God Bless!!
God bless you and yours, too!
If your firing these rounds in the same bolt action rifle that they were fired in, this is great advise. You could get a life time of “reloads” sizing brass for the same rifle using your method. RCBS used to make neck sizing only dies back in the day, I don’t know if they still do. However, if your reloading for a semi automatic rifle, you’ll need to full length size more than as you describe. Example, the M1 may even need a “small base” resizing die to properly feed and chamber.
I thank God I found your channel you are a awesome gunsmith
I have been reloading for 40+ years and I shot 3/4" groups at 100 yards and was satisfied with that for the areas that I hunt. After applying your technique I've shot an honest 5 shot group that is 0.0640 with my 6.5 swedishmauser. Oh by the way I'm not getting on the bandwagon for 6.5 creedmore. I know what my sweed will do! :) Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
I’m probably a little late as I just started watching your videos today. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I’ve been partial resizing cases as you have described here for the past 40 years. I do however use neck sizing for the first 2-3 firings until the case is snug. I seldom shoot full throttle loads, usually 5% under, so case life is very long. I’ve quit counting on some brass. I will now have to try the partial sizing during the first couple firings to see if it makes a difference in accuracy. I’ve never noticed a difference when I’ve changed over on the 2nd or third loads from neck only to partial.
What surprises me is that more folk don't know these things. Almost anyone that reloads the .303 British for a Lee Enfield rifle learns to use similar techniques if they want more than 3 reloads out of a case. I have got dozens without issues. Same for the 7 x 57 I used to have; after 20-odd reloads the cases were still within length tolerances and functioning perfectly.
The Real Gunsmith thank you for for great videos. I know you can only fit in so much information in short video and this one being only introduction have not touch on all other aspects of reloading. I was hoping that you might be able to do advance video for very accurate benchrest shooting and cover everything from start to finished round.
Perhaps you might do full presentation by actually doing the whole process that way it will be also more helpful for other members who are just starting the art of hand loading. It will be great benefit for everyone and especially for beginners to learn good habits from day one.
Thank you very much and I'm looking forward to new videos 🤗👌👍
Mobydickss we will be working, shortly, on getting out more detailed videos on our Patreon channel for $10/month or more subscribers. I am not sure of the time frame for a video on this, as we've not filmed it yet, but it is on the list of "to do's". www.patreon.com/therealgunsmith
Thanks for watching! Good shooting.
I don’t shoot anymore thanks to UK laws been a pain in the ass but the process I found the most accurate was to FL size the case so the shoulders were resized 1-2thou. I then used to Collet size the neck with a custom sized mandrel to ensure consistent neck straightness and tension. You are so right so many reloaders FL over size and it does nothing for the brass or accuracy
I sure hope you have people working for you so your craft carry's on for future generations.
Thank you Sir! Excellent video. The best explanation of this I have heard.
I’ve watched this video many many times Thank you !!!
Right on Real Gun Smith. You do not want to over work the case. This work hardens the brass, causes fatigue, crack formation and premature case head separation. Toward the bottom of the case the brass is necessarily harder and stronger than at the neck. ( Annealing the necks is another topic) Now when you fire the round the case expands and rebounds a smidgen. Depending on dimensional conformance neck sizing prevents overworking the entire case. As long as you have smooth ejection ( no heavy bolt lift etc.) and feed after reload full length resizing back to SAMMI specs ( virgin brass) can create problems. But you have to be meticulous on die set up. Also, you can use the Hornady Concentricity Tool to check the runout of the entire case. You should check this occasionally to be sure you have conformance along the centerline and your die is accurately and repeatedly resizing.
Very good info here. I have a headspace guages that I use to measure my shoulder bump. I bump .001-.002 shoulder bump and that seems to work well. However I'm going to switch to .0005 bump
That is the ideal method Mr Garrett, the way i was setting that was with a single stoke if the case was coming back .002" back i was locking the die, if was not correct i was doing some adjustment on the die and i was trying a new fired case again because the same case was springing back. If you adjust your die on a case you have resise two times or three the same time, then your die will be set wrong and on a single stroke the the shoulder will set back .003" to .004" back. If you don't want the case to crack and last longer you just don't shoot your rifle. There is no technic can cross human's mind that i have not try and careful test it. Bambing the shoulder is ideal method for the best shooting. On very light bullets you my try .001 and don't try to set your die to .0005 . Stay away from extrimish ideas because they will make things worse. Hardness of brass i very importing and the brass gets harder every time you shoot it so be careful on neck tension, that is extremely important.
George from another comment you seem to think I don't know what I am talking about as some information wasn't included in the video above. You told me to read your comment below so I could learn something. Actually there is more about resizing and the whole issue. This video is 101. There is nothing in comment below unknown to me. Research shows most videos, especially with technical information, have an average short watch time. The length of time varies, but it is short. So there will only be so many minutes with only so much information on each video. So Garret, stay tuned.
@@TheRealGunsmith I actually enjoy the longer videos myself. GunBlue does great videos that can be well over an hour long and I love it! You can really get a good idea of concepts and understand WHAT you're doing, not just how to do it from watching detailed videos. But unfortunately, I think you must agree with me that folks these days don't have the attention span to sit and watch and soak it in from a professional.
Randy is a smart and capable man. I dig his videos.
Mr. Selby, did you know Jim Carmichael? I used his books to learn to reload is why I ask, decades ago. Thank you for your efforts. Gerald.
No I didn't. Glad you were able to learn from him.
Thanks for watching.
Good intentions I'm sure though I would prob inform viewers to remove the ejector and firing pin not to get any false readings, one other issue is brass spring back those who don't anneal every firing or so I've sized brass back 2thou that's spring back to the same measurement after 24hrs so if someone only sizes brass 1thou to fit their chamber that's an issue waiting to happen
Thanks for your knowledge sir you’re one of the best by the way I’m just starting to reload i’m on a fixed income find a piece of the time I’m ready to start buying my dies and powder etc. I wanna listen to a lot more of your reloading videos it makes sense how you explain it I’ve watching several videos can you explain for a dummy like me I understand your Videos
Haven't read all the comments yet, but will. I guess I'm one of those guys that takes more measurements - but in essence, I believe I'm accomplishing the same. I use a comparator type measuring tool to measure to the fired case datum point on the case shoulder. I've found a once fired case will contract slightly in the chamber, just a couple thousands, and chamber just fine without pushing the shoulder back at all. But that same case after being fired several times starts to work harden, and will not contract back as much, and start to become harder to chamber. So I measure to the datum liine - adjust my fl die to where it just starts pushing the shoulder back, and then back it off again to the point the shoulder is not being pushed back at all on a once fired case. Lock that die in, label it for that specific gun / chamber, and document the setting, place that documentation in the die box. That way, when the cases have been fired several times, and the brass starts to lose elasticity, the die will size back to the once fired dimensions. Any over-sized cases from the above steps are put in a separate pile, and reloaded, shot, so they can be resized to the exact spec's of a once fired case. I measure my cases for concentricity, but what I've found is those measurements just kind of tell me the quality of that specific fl die. Some dies are less concentric than other dies, even of the same brand. Being diligent in reloading steps seems to yield concentric measurements that are basically the same shell after shell. If there is too much variance - get a different FL die and the results change - consistent again, but different than the other FL die. I have my reservations about pulling an expander ball back through the neck - as when the expander ball is being pulled through the neck, the case is no longer supported the full case length. While it may not make much sense other than adding steps to a reloading hobby, I'm getting more comfortable with trimming the case necks to a consistent thickness, and using a button to size the case mouth for more consistent bullet tension. It stands to reason the case of more supported in a Neck sizing die than a button sized neck FL die. Again, I'm experimenting with steps, but I've become a believer in a Body die, then neck size die as a 2 step process. More important than any of the above, bullet seating can be done with many different tools, the most important to be that the seater fully supports the cartridge during the seating process. What I've gravitated to is the LE Wilson seating dies. The case is completely supported, and then the bullet is pushed down into the supported case from above, instead of pushing the case up into the bullet.
Randy, I have a 25/06 that I had made up on a 1938 M98 action and a Douglas barrel by Flaigs in Pennsylvania in 1968 when it was a wildcat cartridge. I'm now getting rounds that don't fire, blown primers sometime and I had a rim split. I've found out the chamber length is 2.588" If chamber length should be .010-.020 longer than the suggested trim to length, this chamber is .074 too long. If I resize .270 cases, which are longer than .25/06 cases, my case would be 2.544". Add .020", the chamber would be 2.564" to be correct. Doing this, the excess chamber length would be reduced to .024. Not great but alot better than .074". I've checked and a NO GO and a FIELD gauge will close on the bolt. I don't have a heck of a lot of cases fired thru this gun and I'm baffled why all of a sudden I'm getting these problems. Shoot straight, Fred