TLDW #1 - Full Process: Forging a Shear Steel Tanto Blade - Historical Knife Making
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 6 май 2014
- ***This is the full length version from start to finish (minus all the heating time), for the 4 minute radio edit, see: • SOTW #5 - Forging A T...
**Note that this is a classical Japanese style tanto based on the Aizu Shintogo: islandblacksmith.ca/2014/04/ai...
Charcoal forging a traditional tanto pattern blade from half of a reclaimed shear steel horse carriage leaf spring. The two distinct stages are sunobe and hizukuri...sunobe establishes the geometry and proportions, and hizukuri is putting in the bevels and creating the final shape. The final dimensions take a little extra care as this blade is being forged very closely to a traditional kata.
The kata I am measuring it against is the Aizu Shintogo, however there was not enough steel to produce the full thickness on the mune (motokasane) of the original blade. Info on the Aizu Shintogo tanto: islandblacksmith.ca/2014/04/ai...
More about classical tanto geometry: islandblacksmith.ca/tag/tanto-...
The finished forging has a subtle recurve and a slightly dropping spine compared to the kata as the process of yaki-ire will cause the spine to curve upwards.
Shear steel is a very old and somewhat rare form of steel produced by increasing the carbon content of wrought iron using heat and charcoal to create a reduction atmosphere and then forge welding and folding layers together to homogenize the billet. Finished blade has distinct visible layers telling the story of its history.
Actual forging time including heating and some of the final work lost to battery issues was probably about 2 hours.
It's so rare to have someone upload in real time, most of the time it's always sped up. Thank you!
i try to do both when i can...real time is good for study but most folks won't watch the whole thing...
I could watch that steel getting shaped all day, I really need to get myself a little forge, God how I'd like to try that myself. Thank you for your work, it's incredible to have such resources available.
glad to help inspire!
@@islandblacksmith Well Thank You Very much for the entire process. I'm the guy that will watch every hammer stroke.
much appreciated!
Great vid man! I love watching a "pure" bladesmithing vids where it's all done by hand. You did a great job forging it, I hope you will film more of the making of this tanto, I really enjoy your work :)
ちゃんとした作り方で作っていて素晴らしいです！
I'm going to try my hand at one of these as a gift for a friend. I'm sure it won't be anywhere close to this high quality though.
maybe the first one(s) won't, but the journey is important!
Very well done, awesome...Thank You...
That's amazing to watch
dam thats a big anvil what weight is it
what's with the water on the anvil? It it to deal with scale?
yep, the thin layer of water creates steam explosions that blast the scale off to keep it from getting hammered into the surface of the steel...scale doesn't compress so steel always loses...
Amazing.
Hi. Wonderful job. Congratulations.
Please, could you tell me where I can find the all measures (length, thickness, shape) of that Tanto?
thanks! islandblacksmith.ca/2014/04/aizu-shintogo-kunimitsu-tanto-kata/
Correct me if I'm wrong but can you make the largest type of katana an okatana
i think the largest type of swords are more commonly oudachi or nodachi, okatana/ogatana sounds more like the polite version of katana but technically could also mean large katana depending on the kanji...
great video :)
as espadas katanas verdadeiras recebem algum tipo de tratamento pra aliviar tençoes?
Late comment but hopefully someone can respond... as I understand it, the water on the anvil helps to blast away scale in the steam that is created during blows, but is the heat loss worth it vs just wire brushing the blade?
i'd say more heat loss brushing cause it takes a lot more time, and water still works best...the air and anvil are drawing a lot of heat even when dry...to each his own though, dave of cedarlore forge uses water on the wire brush! ^___^
How much do one of your tangos cost. Beautiful work. I could sit there and just watch in amazement
glad you enjoy the process! you can see some styles and types of tanto on the website: islandblacksmith.ca/
Great video...I am setting up and trying to figure out how to forge knives..I learned a lot by watching. Do you have uploads for hardening and tempering blades? Your forge?
What metal do you recommend? Looked like you used an old leaf spring. I live 1/8 mile from a junk yard. :)
yep, there's some info on the website under process, but be warned that i do everything the hard way: islandblacksmith.ca/process/yaki-ire-clay-tempering/
this blade was half of a shear steel horse drawn carriage leaf spring, pretty old stuff...
Where do you find the shear steel? Is it better than modern steels or just a personal preference?
very hard to find, only rarely out at this end of the continent...not better by any means, just closest in alloy composition and physical construction to very old sword steel so it forges, hardens, and finishes in a similar way...
Good
Wait the video title says shear steel but this looks more like a mini leaf spring, what is that you're making it out of?
the answer is yes (^___^) "...half of a reclaimed shear steel horse carriage leaf spring" (125-150 years old steel) ...more info in the description.
How can someone identify shear steel? I have some really old leaf springs, maybe off a carriage. Do I just do a bend test like normal wrought?
if you anneal it you may get a bend test to show a bit but it isn't like wrought iron...try polishing and etching in warm vinegar to see if there is some hada texture...they have to be a good bit more than a century old and are very rare...
Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith will do.
Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith Alright, thanks! It came off an old homestead in Western Alberta, roughly 100 years old or more.
that sounds promising! ...the carbon content changes the ductility so a bend test won't give the same results as with the wrought it was made from...
Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith Thanks! I'll get back to you on if it's shear or not.
Each and every one of your hammer blows have a meaning behind them. There is not a single waste in your movement. Honestly I am as impressed as when I first saw my master forging. Thanks for uploading. By the way how much does the hammer you started using on 10:15 mark weigh?
much appreciated, still learning all the time! ...that hammer is maybe just under 3lbs...just two sizes of hand hammer cover most bladesmithing, a larger one for rough work, 1.5kg-2kg (~3.5lbs-4.5lbs), and a smaller one for finishing, 1.2kg-1.4kg (~2.5lbs-3lbs)...
Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith Thanks a lot!
What is the purpose of the doghead hammer? Or is it dogface?
mainly physics...more weight over smaller surface area to optimize force and accuracy, but also the forward balance performs well on thinner work (sawsmiths, saw tuners, and knifemakers use similar designs)
islandblacksmith.ca/2013/04/why-you-need-a-japanese-swordsmiths-hammer/
I must have watched this video a dozen times. I am currently at a rough sunobe and and about to start on the bevels. Its tapered both forward and rear of the machi however I am uncertain of how to start the beveling. By that i mean where to start the blade edge. I presume one just picks a spot about where he wants the ha/munemachi to be and goes at it? I noticed you beveled the nakago at the end? Any reason for this.
Thanks for reading my comments and i understand if you are too busy to reply. Long shot here.
P.S. Great work, big fan.
good! the nakago is beveled at the same angle as the blade, here are some articles on tanto geometry: islandblacksmith.ca/tag/tanto-geometry/ and check this for an order of operations: ruclips.net/video/0qU9wg_DVaY/видео.html ...after sunobe, first the spine is peaked, then beveling starts from the machi up to the tip and then back down again to refine things...
Holy **** i got a reply. Dave, huge thanks, big fan. I have also watch the video you linked me to several times. I must pay closer attention on the next iteration. I am hoping to get onto the blade again this evening and guess i will crack on with mune peak and then the edge. Any tips for getting a nice peak on the mune? Do you work both sides of the heat at once then move forward and heat the next section? I also presume gentle strikes are the order of the day on the spine?
(sorry to keep asking Q's. I understand traditional learning is through watching but being a perfectionist i just need to know!)
i think it is because most things can't be known with words, you have to feel and see the steel before you even know the right questions to ask...go for it, concentrate on the same angle on each side to save filing later...and find those two articles on the tang and machi geometry before you start hammering...
Thanks for the encouragement Dave. Cheers from Australia.
^_____^
Question. Why is water poured into the anvil? Thank you in advance sir.
the thin layer of water creates steam explosions that blast the scale
off to keep it from getting hammered into the surface of the
steel...scale doesn't compress so steel always loses unless you clean it off somehow...
is the same reason to brush the steel as it comes out the forge , isn"t it ?
similar, yes...but while forging more scale can form so for the final stages water is used...
Impacting hot steel into the water on the surface of the anvil creates a blast of steam that breaks scale and blows it off at the same time.
Thank you for the reply
Why did you chose this steel ？
it is more than one hundred years old, it is handmade steel with hada...it is a treasure!
Thank you for reply.
Вуди Вудпекер
Make a kiridashi
Для чего он воду на наковальню льёт?
the thin layer of water creates steam explosions that blast the oxide scale off to keep it from getting hammered into the surface of the steel...
Спасибо )))
Blade need to be folded several times ti give the tanto consitency
the steel has already been refined prior to this video, the consistency is almost perfect!
Why do you have to hammer the tip in opposit direction.. It's not a sanamai dude..
because you must.
...but not so much for sanmai, for kobuse construction and for any material that has a hada or layering to it, the grain should flow along the edge...but do it anyways so you know/practice the proper technique ^_____^
Thats not a tanto
that is technically correct! until it survives yaki-ire, the hardening process, it is considered to be just a piece of steel, not a blade... islandblacksmith.ca/process/yaki-ire-clay-tempering/
CrossedHeartForge ok i understand
Onto. Not into.