Spend the extra money and get polycarbonate 3/8 inch panels instead of acrylic. I made this 7 months ago and have been playing on it a fair amount, but I had one of my panels break yesterday. I don't stomp or even really lift much, and I'm not that big (6', 170-180 pounds). As LazyyFox said, don't even bother with the clincher connectors with Interlink FSRs. I tried so hard to get them to work but they just don't. Soldering is easy and the connection is way better than whatever jank you will get out of the clinchers. Had no prior soldering experience and had no issue doing it/didn't melt the FSRs. I also suggest running velcro across the entire length of the panels, where the sensors go. I was having connectivity issues that were hard to figure out. Turns out that the depressions from the panels onto the FSRs overhanging the velcro was essentially cutting the FSRs; had to replace 3 of them. Build this if you want to play at home. Works great.
If you're willing to spend a bit more, the FSRio board makes everything braindead easy. Its a PCB with USB c out that is purpose built for dance pads. You just plug the FSRs into them and plug the board into your PC. It works out of the box with no software, but there is software for it where you just run an EXE and with it you can adjust the sensitivity, set sensors to inputs, and even set LED lighting (it has support for that too). I built a pad similar to this using it and it was incredibly easy.
Just wanted to stop by and mention that if you're doing this build and buy your FSRs from interlink, DO NOT use clincher connectors. I am making this pad and made this mistake. The FSRs from interlink only come with the solder tabs, and since the clincher connectors are designed to crimp onto the same spot that the solder tabs are crimped onto... there isn't enough room left to get the connector on. I tried cutting off the solder tabs on the hope that there was enough of the ribbon left to get a connection, however I only got two of them to work initially and one of them stopped working once they were actually taped down onto the pad. Please do not make my mistake and just solder onto the tabs (or do the janky crimping thing Bandit did in the video I'm not your mom). As long as you do it quick (pre-tin the wire) there is little risk that you melt the tabs off. Now excuse me while I stare out the window in sadness while waiting for a new set of FSRs to ship on the 30th.
This is good to know about the clincher. I already attached 1 sensor per pad on my ltek but want to add a second to each pad. I soldered the first 4 but was considering using these clinchers for the new ones since soldering was tricky. I will just solder the others. For what it's worth, I did notice after melting one of the fsrs (I bought a couple extra, thankfully) that it was easier to keep together when I used electrical tape to create a 'heat shield' right at the base wherethe solder tab connected to the ribbon. I'm a novice at soldering, but that seemed to get pretty consistent results and all the sensors worked in the end.
Shoes are pretty grippy on acrylic in general, so you *might* start sliding the velcro apart if you play slide-heavy. I don't see casual-level play with shoes being an issue though, or even faster play with slippery shoes.
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Spend the extra money and get polycarbonate 3/8 inch panels instead of acrylic. I made this 7 months ago and have been playing on it a fair amount, but I had one of my panels break yesterday. I don't stomp or even really lift much, and I'm not that big (6', 170-180 pounds).
As LazyyFox said, don't even bother with the clincher connectors with Interlink FSRs. I tried so hard to get them to work but they just don't. Soldering is easy and the connection is way better than whatever jank you will get out of the clinchers. Had no prior soldering experience and had no issue doing it/didn't melt the FSRs.
I also suggest running velcro across the entire length of the panels, where the sensors go. I was having connectivity issues that were hard to figure out. Turns out that the depressions from the panels onto the FSRs overhanging the velcro was essentially cutting the FSRs; had to replace 3 of them.
Build this if you want to play at home. Works great.
Thanks for putting this together man, I intended on putting together a "better" version of the pad but it seems like you kinda did it for me haha
If you're willing to spend a bit more, the FSRio board makes everything braindead easy. Its a PCB with USB c out that is purpose built for dance pads. You just plug the FSRs into them and plug the board into your PC. It works out of the box with no software, but there is software for it where you just run an EXE and with it you can adjust the sensitivity, set sensors to inputs, and even set LED lighting (it has support for that too). I built a pad similar to this using it and it was incredibly easy.
Can you show me where that is if still available?
thank you!
Just wanted to stop by and mention that if you're doing this build and buy your FSRs from interlink, DO NOT use clincher connectors. I am making this pad and made this mistake. The FSRs from interlink only come with the solder tabs, and since the clincher connectors are designed to crimp onto the same spot that the solder tabs are crimped onto... there isn't enough room left to get the connector on. I tried cutting off the solder tabs on the hope that there was enough of the ribbon left to get a connection, however I only got two of them to work initially and one of them stopped working once they were actually taped down onto the pad.
Please do not make my mistake and just solder onto the tabs (or do the janky crimping thing Bandit did in the video I'm not your mom). As long as you do it quick (pre-tin the wire) there is little risk that you melt the tabs off.
Now excuse me while I stare out the window in sadness while waiting for a new set of FSRs to ship on the 30th.
This is good to know about the clincher. I already attached 1 sensor per pad on my ltek but want to add a second to each pad. I soldered the first 4 but was considering using these clinchers for the new ones since soldering was tricky. I will just solder the others.
For what it's worth, I did notice after melting one of the fsrs (I bought a couple extra, thankfully) that it was easier to keep together when I used electrical tape to create a 'heat shield' right at the base wherethe solder tab connected to the ribbon. I'm a novice at soldering, but that seemed to get pretty consistent results and all the sensors worked in the end.
This was super helpful! Helped me improve my diy pad a ton.
Built this travel pad :D
when you mentioned using countersunk screws, would you forgo any kind of padding for the fsr and just stick it direct to the plywood?
Does this work with arduino Leonardo boards?
Using a leonardo, can't seem to get my sensors working. Pretty new with breadboards and such, do you have any recommendations for the Leonardo?
So people are just putting the sensor directly on the polycarb tile? I am getting fsr in todale and gutting out my arcade sensor trays. Wish me luck
Pretty slick and elegant. Is it socks-only or could you safely use shoes on this?
Shoes are pretty grippy on acrylic in general, so you *might* start sliding the velcro apart if you play slide-heavy. I don't see casual-level play with shoes being an issue though, or even faster play with slippery shoes.
Can a casual player with a conventional (no bar stomp) playstyle make use of this?
Replace the acrylic with polycarbonate and make it somewhat thick. The panels on L-tek pads are ~3mm thick but can still crack on occasion.
Badass! :D
thats pretty good
woah amelia watson commented on my video
@@goose_asdf yea haha thanks for the love and support keep up the good work
legendary
epic
very kool
i don't play this rhythm game, but neat
step on arrows with us it will be fun
@@goose_asdf play with a small toy guitar with us it will be fun
@@tomorrowisscrewed play a fake piano and dj table with us it will be fun
@@sorimasn come tap on some buttons and twist knobs with us it will be fun