I noticed you didn't use any pruning sealer on your cut sites after you inserted the grafts... found it doesn't work great for you or ? Can you walk through process or do follow up vid of graft maintenance afterwards ie, tree placement in relation to sun, when you start venting the bag, how often you go back to add vents ect.... I can fumble a sure thing in the aftercare process, looks great and that they took, start slowly venting and I'll get pretty high failure rate. Tough to get right for some reason, going to try and keep all grafts in mini greenhouse I have this year see if that helps.
I'll wait a couple months before doing anything. If the grafts start to grow, then you can start slowly adding vents. If they're green but not moving, just wait, but often that means that they didn't take.
Have you ever tried it without the bag? I've never seen professional grafters use them here, but then again we use the tape to keep water out rather than in. My lecturers always tell us to avoid touching the scion wound with our fingers and preferrably to avoid having it touch anything at all. Apparently it can impart small amounts of oil onto the vascular tissue which will not be helpful for water transportation. The new camera is working really well, the close-up cuts are very nice for details.
Not without a bag - no. It's typically so dry here that the scions wouldn't stand a chance I think. But, I do know people who graft using a greenhouse without bagging the scions.
The sphagnum is to preserve humidity right? Have you tried the “doobie” method where you just wrap the scion in grafting tape and let it naturally break through as it takes?
If I have access to a greenhouse can I skip the baggin process of the scion graft? thank you for a very informative video! Also, the best time to do this procedure is end of winter, beggining of spring? thanks!
Yes, but there is another method though - using stretchy plastic tape - blanking on the name right now - it's called the doobie method because the resulting scion looks like a hand-rolled joint.
How did you decide that a shohin size was best for the future design of the tree? Did it have features that weren’t desirable above a certain point, or was there something else?
I think the issue with this piece of material is that it's relatively straight, with minimal natural features. The deadwood is interesting but not super. So, creating a shohin, where the current upper branches are all jin seemed like an improvement. Everything more than about 2" above the top graft point was relatively uninteresting structurally, so it might not even make good jin. But, with jin it will give the opportunity for carving and reduction. The natural foliage is too coarse to create a well ramified small tree.
Amazing Process here Erich. The process looked great. What are your thoughts on using a black or colored baggie to block out the sun? would that be probable or cause issues later? Thank you for sharing!
generally, I tie the grafts after inserting them, then add the bag. If you add the bag in advance and tie it to the scion that would be another way. This former was the way I my teacher did it. But, I think the doobie method is much faster than either of those options. (wrapping the scion tight in Parafilm.)
Thanks for the Lesson on grafting but please try to Bend the Taller Branches and maybe split the Branches to help bend them. Or you could sell it to Me. We in Ohio Never get a Chance to buy these Kinds of Junipers. Do you have Bonsai Today Junipers Book?
Personally, I don't like split juniper branches. I think they look eternally awkward. Grafting largely disappears...although there will be a transition in the bark character at the least. The Bonsai Today Juniper book is re-edited articles from Bonsai Today, which originally came from Kinbon magazine. I have seen them but I don't own them. As for sourcing material in Ohio - the National show is in Rochester this October - and I suspect there would be material like this available there. I once drove all night from Rochester to Columbus chasing thunderstorms to try to take photos.
@@Bonsaify thanks. For info. I just you May like to look at these Books? Are you from Ohio ? Do you Chase Storms? Could you air layer the Top since you want to remove it? I like the Top. So good Luck thanks Again. Greg
I used to chase storms. Got some good shots back in the day when we had to burn film to do it. I'll use the top as jin - maybe carve it down a little. I also may end up leaning the tree over more.
Only 1 of the 4. And 1 of 8 on another rocky that I grafted. And 12 of 13 on a San Jose. Interesting result. But I'll wait a bit to share it in more detail.
@Bonsaify it's crazy how they can be successful on one tree, but not on another. I've been grafting kishu on a Sierra Juniper of mine and have had good success. I did a bunch of grafts on a San Jose last year, and none of them took.
We'll know in about 2-3 months if the grafts have taken. Then, start removing the bags by clipping corners or making a slice. Then it takes as long as it takes to grow out the grafts and make the tree.
Thank you so much for making this video. Please make a follow up on how the grafts do? I greatly appreciate all your videos.
A Shohin Surgeon at work! Great video, Eric.
Great to see you posting again. I don’t think I’ve ever seen the plastic bag technique, interesting.
I just saved the Video for instructions when i am going to try it myself! Thanks so much for sharing
You should make a video on how to sharpen spherical concave cutters and knob cutters.
Thanks for sharing. Could you have opted for wrapping the scions with plastic instead of using the plastic bags?
I noticed you didn't use any pruning sealer on your cut sites after you inserted the grafts... found it doesn't work great for you or ? Can you walk through process or do follow up vid of graft maintenance afterwards ie, tree placement in relation to sun, when you start venting the bag, how often you go back to add vents ect.... I can fumble a sure thing in the aftercare process, looks great and that they took, start slowly venting and I'll get pretty high failure rate. Tough to get right for some reason, going to try and keep all grafts in mini greenhouse I have this year see if that helps.
I'll wait a couple months before doing anything. If the grafts start to grow, then you can start slowly adding vents. If they're green but not moving, just wait, but often that means that they didn't take.
Have you ever tried it without the bag? I've never seen professional grafters use them here, but then again we use the tape to keep water out rather than in. My lecturers always tell us to avoid touching the scion wound with our fingers and preferrably to avoid having it touch anything at all. Apparently it can impart small amounts of oil onto the vascular tissue which will not be helpful for water transportation. The new camera is working really well, the close-up cuts are very nice for details.
Not without a bag - no. It's typically so dry here that the scions wouldn't stand a chance I think. But, I do know people who graft using a greenhouse without bagging the scions.
Was it successful?
The sphagnum is to preserve humidity right? Have you tried the “doobie” method where you just wrap the scion in grafting tape and let it naturally break through as it takes?
Yes, I have. It's a bit quicker I think. Not sure it's more or less successful. I just did a couple trees that way.
If I have access to a greenhouse can I skip the baggin process of the scion graft? thank you for a very informative video! Also, the best time to do this procedure is end of winter, beggining of spring? thanks!
Yes, but I haven't tried it that way. And yes on the timing.
Nice video! Would u have to make that tent with pines ? If u have any jbp u could graft i would love to see that being done.
Yes, same bagging or Parafilm is used for pines.
Very nice tree and thx for all your videos. I injoy them very much and I find them very helpful. Do you really need to put this plastic bags over it?
Yes, but there is another method though - using stretchy plastic tape - blanking on the name right now - it's called the doobie method because the resulting scion looks like a hand-rolled joint.
@@Bonsaify parafilm?
Yes!
How did you decide that a shohin size was best for the future design of the tree? Did it have features that weren’t desirable above a certain point, or was there something else?
I think the issue with this piece of material is that it's relatively straight, with minimal natural features. The deadwood is interesting but not super. So, creating a shohin, where the current upper branches are all jin seemed like an improvement. Everything more than about 2" above the top graft point was relatively uninteresting structurally, so it might not even make good jin. But, with jin it will give the opportunity for carving and reduction. The natural foliage is too coarse to create a well ramified small tree.
Amazing Process here Erich. The process looked great. What are your thoughts on using a black or colored baggie to block out the sun? would that be probable or cause issues later? Thank you for sharing!
I suspect a black bag would be worse in terms of heat, and obviously it would block light. But I've never tried it so I don't know.
@@Bonsaify well after those two great points, I think you are right. Black will just not work.
I’ve always grafted pines in February and juniper in June (in Oregon)
Have you experimented with the timing of grafting?
Nope, but that sounds interesting. Scion grafts in june? Or approach grafts?
@@Bonsaify scion grafts in June. Learned that from Michael Hagedorn. Good success rate her in Oregon
Can you make the appropriate cut and insert the scion so that it points down instead of up?
As far as I understand - not on junipers, but yes you can on pines. Might be worth a try anyway on a juniper.
Is there a reason you didn’t put the foliage in the bags before insertion?
generally, I tie the grafts after inserting them, then add the bag. If you add the bag in advance and tie it to the scion that would be another way. This former was the way I my teacher did it. But, I think the doobie method is much faster than either of those options. (wrapping the scion tight in Parafilm.)
Thanks for the Lesson on grafting but please try to Bend the Taller Branches and maybe split the Branches to help bend them. Or you could sell it to Me. We in Ohio Never get a Chance to buy these Kinds of Junipers. Do you have Bonsai Today Junipers Book?
Personally, I don't like split juniper branches. I think they look eternally awkward. Grafting largely disappears...although there will be a transition in the bark character at the least.
The Bonsai Today Juniper book is re-edited articles from Bonsai Today, which originally came from Kinbon magazine. I have seen them but I don't own them. As for sourcing material in Ohio - the National show is in Rochester this October - and I suspect there would be material like this available there. I once drove all night from Rochester to Columbus chasing thunderstorms to try to take photos.
@@Bonsaify thanks. For info. I just you May like to look at these Books? Are you from Ohio ? Do you Chase Storms? Could you air layer the Top since you want to remove it? I like the Top. So good Luck thanks Again. Greg
I used to chase storms. Got some good shots back in the day when we had to burn film to do it. I'll use the top as jin - maybe carve it down a little. I also may end up leaning the tree over more.
@@Bonsaify Thanks for the Works. Does you friend still sell Yamadori trees? Peace Be With You and Wife
❤❤❤❤❤
Did your grafts take?
Only 1 of the 4. And 1 of 8 on another rocky that I grafted. And 12 of 13 on a San Jose. Interesting result. But I'll wait a bit to share it in more detail.
@Bonsaify it's crazy how they can be successful on one tree, but not on another. I've been grafting kishu on a Sierra Juniper of mine and have had good success. I did a bunch of grafts on a San Jose last year, and none of them took.
How long it will take regards
We'll know in about 2-3 months if the grafts have taken. Then, start removing the bags by clipping corners or making a slice. Then it takes as long as it takes to grow out the grafts and make the tree.
@@Bonsaify thank you