Hi guys I just wanted to Introduce to you my other Channel "Kirkman's Academy" - which i'm just getting started. It's a go-to channel for simple explanations for hard to grasp subjects such as physics, maths and chemistry etc. Here is the link: www.youtube.com/@kirkmansacademy/videos . Thank you so much for looking, and if these topics interest you then I hope to see you the there. Many thanks indeed. Craig 😊👍
first time to find and view your exceptional channel! your attention to detail but put in layman's terms makes this my favorite channel for small engine repair. Thank you from South Carolina, in the colonies. I'm a retired small farm raised chemical engineer so I appreciate just how thoroughly and carefully you teach us...the only issue has to do with your pronunciation of carburetor. ;) Keep up the great work!! A grateful Yank!
I run everything at 25:1 and always have. My cheap gears seem to never die, had 10 year runs from cheap new weedeaters and the recoil goes or the shaft bearings wear out but engine still starts and runs perfectly. I use Mobil outboard usually as it has the blue die so it's easy to not mix fuels up. My exhausts are dripping with oil and smoke like mad but my rule is if it ain't smoking it ain't got enough oil. On my chainsaws the plugs oil up as I'm often idling or on and off throttle but my weedeaters are generally idled till warm then on full song until the tank runs dry with very little off throttle time and they stay quite clean but both types of machines I very rarely have a plug really gunk up. If anybody read this far another thing Indo to get extremely long service life from small 2 strokes is periodically blast them down with degreaser externally to keep the cylinder jug clean. Oil holds dust, dust builds up and essentially forms an insulating barrier between the alloy and the air. I'm sure that proper cooling has made my gear last so long as well as 25:1 mix always, in everything, regardless of manufacturers recommendations.
I have found that when using more oil in the mix, I get more muffler and spark arresror oil fouling. If it clogs the muffler, the engine can't breath and will stall after a bit. Time to remove the muffler and put a propane torch to it to burn off the oil. This has worked for me.
VP race gas, lucas 2 stroke mixed 40 to 1 in all my Stihls. My 1984 024 and 1979 032 both still run like new. I have on occasion run junk gas and whatever oil I can find but it gets mixed more oily. One can STP to a gallon of 30 weight on the bar. I believe part of the longevity of my saws is due to giving them a good long time to warm up before hammering the throttle. That, and never running them at redline. Nice presentation.
I would NEVER run 50:1... I never go over 24:1. I dont care how high quality the engine is or high end the oil is. NEVER listen to the engine manufacturer on any matter that is influenced by the EPA, they are not going to give you the best advice for longevity of the engine.
32 to 1 works good with small amounts of fuel, i.e. 1 ounce/30ml to 1qt/1liter. Easy to mix up. I used MC1+ for the Ryobi, at 32 to 1. Will use *more* oil (Maxima K2) for the Zenoah.
sir you rang the bell with this video, absolutely sound advice. It seems the prevailing notion these days is that modern oils are so advanced you not only can but should limit oil to 50:1 or even less oil. I do not care how advanced an oil is, there needs to be a certain concentration of oil molecules to allow good operation and prevent damage due to lack of lubrication. I too have run 32:1 since 1981 when I first started buying and using chainsaws. To this day those old saws are still running and the cylinder/piston assemblies look excellent. Never had plug fouling, or exhaust blockage and recent inspections show very minimal carbon build up. I even used Stihl oil for the majority of the time which is maligned by many as terrible for deposit build up. I do not buy that at all. I used these saws heavily in wood milling and firewood cutting. On the other side of things I have acquired many vintage saws on line as a collector and the amount of heat/low lubrication damage is astonishing for about 50% of these saws. I can assume the operators of these saws opted for the idea of low oil concentrations and worked their saws hard.
I have been using my Alpina BC43DS, ( 43 cc ) for like 15 years ( bought new) , I am not a commercial user but have substantial reason to use a 43 cc machine during the UK grass season , Its not babied but not abused, it has a genuine Japanese Mitsubishi engine 2 stroke engine ( not cloned) and its an absolute screamer if you need it to, (whet grass for instance and you cant wait for a dry day) . The manual says ( 50.1 fully synthetic) From the get go I have ran it on green bottle " Castrol TT " 2 stroke racing oil fully synth but @ 40.1, Not had a moments problem , just recently replaced the NGK spark plug ( avoid them no mark jobs from hardware stores ) and a new genuine part air filter, SO, quality engine, quality oil, quality parts, my own experience confirms your statement.
My machines (blower, string trimmer, etc.), according to the manufacturer, are 50:1 gas/oil ratio engines. But I run them at 40:1, been doing that for a long while. It smokes slightly, but I believe that is worth the benefits of less wear.
I am an amature and have just started using a cheepy household chainsaw. Glad I found you on U-Tube. Thank you for the excellent advice. Will be looking at your other videos as well for advice.
Great Vid Craig, thanks! Here in the states the 10% ethanol added to our fuel compounds our issues! I use Stihl Ultra at 40-1 and the only issues I see are as you stated fouled spark plugs and spark arresters but I check them monthly. Also I tell my customers to limit idle time and part throttle operation as it also increases the likelihood of carbon buildup. Thanks again. Knowledge IS Power!!
@@bobp6742 just keep in mind if you mix a little water in there to phase separate the gas and the ethanol, it will reduce the octane by about 10 points so you need to add octane booster after to bring it back up to the correct octane. Ethanol is very high octane
My personal preference is quality synthetic at 30:1 break in then 40:1 forever in all of my 2 strokes. Chain saw, weed eater, scooters, toys. I do use 50:1 break in on small 4 strokes. One tank only.
Stihl HP oil 50:1 to all My stihl chainsaws! The oldest one my Ms 290, after 20+ years, never have any problem, and piston looks like new! Nice video man! 👍
Ive had a solo 2 stroke brush cutter for the past 20 years I remember once I picked up the wrong can filled it with straight petrol , noticed straight away it it lacked power (assuming it was the extra friction) turn it off and put the right fuel and saved from more damage.Also noticed with older 2 strokes more oil in the mix helps with compression ie more power.
Whatever I mix for my power saw I use for everything else, weed eater, hedge trimmer, and ECT. I'm doing this for 35 40 years, and I never had to replace any of them for a motor problems. Had a weed eater for 30 years I just finally went and bought a new one because of a problem with the shaft wearing out. I hedge trimmers same way I've used them for years and years and years. Couple years ago I went and bought a new pair hedge trimmer.
Thanks for this explanation. I bought a knockoff cheap chainsaw that recommends 20:1 for first 20 hours and 25:1 thereafter. That sounded really rich from what I have read is best to use in a chainsaw (I’m new to chainsaws). Couldn’t find any good explanations online for when it’s ok to use more oil until I found your video. Now I feel more confident following the manufacturer’s recommendation.
I've always used 50:1 Stihl regular mix, when I've needed to rebuild my equipment it always has a nice coating of oil on the upper and lower end. I also tend to run a touch rich.
I've run my Chinese strimmer at 50:1 and it's now 17 years old and this time of year I run it for 40 minutes twice a week. Same with my cheap Chinese chainsaw, never had any problems running them at 50:1. Now I've said that I bet it goes bang next time I use it.
I have ran 32-1 for years with no issues. Chainsaws, weedeaters, Motorcycles. I use only gasoline with no ethanol. I use penzol 2 stroke. I go through gallons of fuel at times, I bought a used 2 stroke dirt bike with unknown hours. I went through the motor and worked on power valves. Old rings and I have over 70 hours on bike for myself.
I use the amsoil saber synthetic at 50:1 in all my gear , even my vintage lawn boy mowers (32:1 on the original lawn boy oil). No problems in 10 years . I buy a case once every 5 years or so.
Spot on tips you have sir. I also might add to get the non ethanol fuel if you can get it. It's a bit more expensive, but way better. Easy starting, it's not so hard on the rubber a plastics. Ethanol just eventually ate up my rider gas cap insides and it crumbled down into a full tank of gas. Yes newer stuff is not as good as the old. Keep them running a little rich and they age like a fine wine. I have had BRAND NEW stuff shoot raw fuel out the exhaust.
I Break in/ run in two tanks light duty or ideling at 16 to 1 then 32 to 1 after if its a modern chainsaw, 25 to 1 if its old or a Chinese chainsaw or trimmer .
40 to 45:1 Echo red armour imported into the UK mixed with Stihl 4mix silver canned fuel. Not motomix, this contains the Ultra oil which i find low grade FB rated, dirty/dry burn. Only use "FD" rated oils which are much better quality and have greater cleaning additives within them.
I like 40:1 only I don't use a two cycle oil. I use Mobil One synthetic motor oil high mileage. I use the the highest viscosity I can find. The high mileage also has additives that keep crank seals,and carb diagrams pliable. I've been doing this for twenty plus years and have had good service with it.
In the Stihl manual they give you a quantity of oil other than Stihl brand to use. If I remember correcrly it is about twice whart the Stihl brand oil is.
I use Husqvarna XP oil in all my 2-stroke machines, 2.5% (40:1) in Chinese engines and 2% (50:1) in brand name engines. I tried 3%, but the muffler was then spitting out oil, not only dripping, like it does at 2.5%. I disassembled several of those engines and found lubrication to be more than adequate. I might even switch to 2% for all machines. Modern brand name oils are really good.
Husqvarna LS (low smoke) 2-stroke is not good enough? Why Husqvarna XP when the LS has fuel stabiliser added but the XP has NOT. The XP was developed for Husqvarna Engines > 55cc.
@@set3777 I used LS in the past, actually. Was very satisfied with it. But then got a VERY good deal for a few 1L bottles of XP oil and now I'm using it. So, XP is not some of my preference, but just a good deal.
@@homopit42 But the LS+ already exceeded the JASO FC and FD specs but the XP (without +) is only rated at JASO FB according to some reports. XP+ may have finally passed the JASO FC and FD specs.
When decreasing the fuel/oil ratio so drastically (25:1), don’t you find that you have to readjust your carb? The increased temperature is most likely due to a lean condition as you’re reducing the available fuel to mix with air for each intake cycle.
If the fuel/oil ratio is decreased, surely you'd need less air, so adjust the carb. But what about the spark timing. You wouldn't need to start burning too early to burn all the air/fuel thoroughly!?
The mixture depends on the application if you have a modern-day 2-stroke such as a Weedeater or string trimmer whipper snipper whatever you want to call it that it typically runs a 50 to 1 but let's say you have older equipment or something like a motorcycle from the 1970s or 80s those call for a 40 to 1 mixture sometimes 25:1 I have a lawnmower that calls for 16:1 yes the oils these days are better but we have to remember that the tolerance of those engines are much less close together and need the extra oil to keep the parts from rubbing together example I also have a 1957 johnson 7.5 seahorse outboard 16:1 why you ask because it has babbitt bearings and those require large amounts of oil to lubricate them but you don't see that stuff being used much these days so 50:1 is common and if you are unsure of a an equipment age I was always told when unsure 32:1 will work yes it will smoke a bit but that means at least it getting lubricated
Thank you for sharing your insights on 2-stroke engine oil mix ratios and their applications. Your knowledge of different ratios for various equipment types, along with the historical context, is impressive. It's essential to consider the manufacturer's recommendations for the appropriate oil-to-fuel ratio for each specific engine, as you've rightly pointed out. You've highlighted the importance of understanding the unique requirements of older equipment and how the tolerances of engine components can vary significantly. Your advice on using a 32:1 ratio when unsure is a practical approach to ensure proper lubrication, even if it may result in a bit more smoke. Your willingness to share your expertise is greatly appreciated, and I'm sure it will be valuable to others navigating the world of 2-stroke engines and their oil mixtures. If you have any more insights or questions on this topic or any other, please feel free to continue the discussion. Many thanks indeed Craig
Very interesting! I bought a Poulan Pro PR5020 (made by Husqvarna) and a gallon can of Husqvarna Bar & Chain Oil and a gallon of Husqvarna 50:1 Premium Fuel because I thought 50:1 is what's one the box packaging cover. I haven't used it yet. I recently read that all Poulan Pro chainsaws are 40:1, and now, after watching this, I notice on the box it says both 40:1 and 50:1, implying that I have a choice. I thought 50:1 meant more oil, but now I know better. However, the manual says to add 2.6 ounces of Full Synthetic 2-Cycle Oil to one gallon of Fresh Gasoline for a 50:1 mixture actually 49.23:1) without specifying Regular or Premium. To go with your recommendation, I'll have to exchange mine for 40:1. I'm going to contact Poulan or Husqvarna to see what they recommend and ask if 40:1 is OK. It says that E10 is OK, but E15 or E85. I run all my small engines with E0 Regular now, but I think this chainsaw will do better with the Premium premixed canned. Thanks for bringing this to my attention!
Regardless QUALITY oil is a must. You're playing Russian roulette with a fully loaded gun if you don't use good oil. The best you can hope for ,even if you step the mix up is a carbon stuck ring set. I don't know how many blowers,and trimmers I've had to tear down and decarbon.
I have a cheap asse petrol strimmer had it 4years 1st year it was the work horse ... I always let it warm up before using it ... 2nd year it was the back up Strimmer 3rd and 4th years it only comes out for big jobs as it has the handle bars and its so light compared to the newer ones ... its always been on 40-1 with budget oil from wilkos most of the time ... she's still running 💪
This video is exactly what I yearned for. Someone with tons of experience, no bios intentions, and a clear explanation. Unless you're an oil chemist why experiment using anything other than two cycle oil on your equipment?
I think I own over 20 2t engines, from rc, mx, v6 merc outboards, chainsaws, etc, even a 2t diesel. My theory is you use quality oil, at a ratio that suits the application. 1:5 - 50:1, my most used ratio is 40:1.
H, wondered what you think about less known brand ouls, that are JASO FD or ISO EGD rated, ? Understand that most budget 2T oil is mineral based FB rated. For long duration, high speed operation would you recommend the use of semisynthetic to achieve best protection for whole engine ?
I have a husqvarna 128 LD string trimmer that is running a little to hot at a 50:1 mix (husqvarna 2 cycle oil) that is required by the manufacturer. The tip of my spark plug is solid white, so I started mixing a 30:1 mix and it seems to be running a little better, but I will eventually move up to a 40:1 mix. My question is, while I am experimenting with different fuel and oil mixtures is it necessary to adjust my carburetor (Idle mixture screws 2300-3200 rps/H screw or Max Speed 8000 rpms)? If yes, how would I go about making those adjustments?
I use the stihl 50:1 mixed with non ethanol mid grade. Oil technology has become very advanced, so I stick with the manufacturer recommendations. If using ethanol fuel, Lucas oil makes an additive to treat the fuel.
I only use Aspen 2 in my high quality Two-stroke equipment, it's expensive but the motors are like new inside after years of regular usage. No smoke or smell either.
As always an oil video gets 2-stroke folks all churned up. I tend to stay out of the brawls even though I have my opinions. The worst thing about excess oil ratio is carbon buildup in the head flaking and scoring. An operator or tech can easily change plugs, burn off spark arrestors and even scrape exhaust ports but cleaning the cylinder head requires gaskets, disassembly, reassembly and vacuum and pressure testing the work. I like to ride motorized bikes with chinese engines, cheap transport that can park in bike racks while running errands at 25 to 30mph. The heads unbolt off the cylinders so cleaning carbon is really simple and cheap. The mix oil I settled on after years of cleaning heads is Red Armor, an Echo/Shindaiwa product, because it has de-carbonizer in the mix. I use non-ethanol in all small engines, mixed at 25:1 break in, 40:1 later.
So much this. The Stihl 25cc here has so much coke buildup on top the piston. Come back after cleaning (when changing cyl head gasket). All the oven cleaners say not to use on aluminum, so cant get it off that way. What to do❓
@@bacilluscereus1299 I use brake cleaner and 3m pads in green or red. I have some fittings for a die grinder as well but the pads will remove carbon good enough by hand
@@bacilluscereus1299 For cylinder heads I make mandrels out of 3/8" aluminum bar or hardwood dowell slotted enough to jam a 3m square in and remove it with brake clean and a drill. But I put a ground off spark plug in the port to protect the threads
I use strictly Stihl Ultra at 50 to 1 in all my Stihl Chainsaws and String trimmers. I have never had a single problem for 12 yrs. Synthetic oils are by far superior oils. And I use mobile 1 in my car and truck.
I recently sold a 40 year old Stihl 038 chainsaw, one of the very early ones. I shudder think how much firewood I had cut up with that let alone the trees it had cut down (Mostly Elms ravaged by Dutch Elm disease, willows etc. plus the odd oak) I only ever used Stihl's own oil in it at the correct 50:1 ratio, In all that time I never had to touch the engine itself apart from routine things like plugs and air filters but over the years dozens of chains , sprockets and a few bars of course. When the guy came to pick it up it started 1st pull and ran like a champ. Q.E.D.
That's incredible! It sounds like your Stihl 038 chainsaw was an absolute workhorse for you over the years, tackling all those trees and providing you with countless hours of service. It's a testament to both the quality of Stihl's products and your diligent maintenance. The fact that it started on the first pull even after 40 years is truly impressive. Thanks for sharing this great story of durability and reliability! Thanks Craig
I bought a brand new trimmer (Chinese brand). It was running fine until I refilled with my own stihl 50:1 mix. Now the engine sputters, suddenly loses power. What can be the cause?
I had some bad experiences with some lesser brands of lawn equipment so I went with Echo some years ago. I also only use Echo 2 stroke oil at 50:1 since I have heard of failures when other oils were used - and consequently not covered under warranty because of that. Over the years, the only thing I have needed to do outside of very little standard maintenance was rebuild one carb --> likely due to the ethanol in our pump gas.
Yes, there is. But rather than being about viscosity it is about testing the additive package in the lubricant. There are three active standards bodies: 1) the American Petrolium Institue (API), 2) the Japanese Automobile Standards Organization (JASO), and 3) Europe's ISO. JASO and ISO have superceeded API's standards. JASO has four standards, FA, FB, FC and FD, (FD being the highest) . ISO has four standards, L-EGA, L-EGB, L-EGC and L-EGD (L-EGD being the highest) For bevity sake, the ISO adopted the JASO standards and extended them, improved them, by requiring more cleaners in the adative package. There has been revolutionary improvements in two-cycle fuel additives. The FD standard requires that FD lubricants added to gasoline for a 50:1 ratio be backwards compatible for FA, FB and FC, plus be backwards compatible to higher fuel:lubricant ratios. FD mixed at 50:1 is required to lubricate engines that require a 40:1 mix, or a 32:1 mix, or 25:1 mix or whatever:1 no matter what the owner's manual calls for. It has that much lubricant in it and it is that good. Only purchase lubricants that feature FD or L-EGD on the label. JASO's list of certified oils is easy to find on the internet. The 'oil is cheap insurance argument' no longer applies. The 'use this ratio when you do this' argument no longers applies. Those arguments are almost 50 years old and come from the days when manufacturers were switching from using HD 30w oil at 20:1 to modern lubricant additives. The one caveat i can think of is that your two-cycle engines need accurate carburetor adjustments. Ear-alone tuning is dangerous in modern engines using moden lubricants. Inadequate fuel to air mixtures through the carburetor is identified as inadequate lubrication because of the scoring. But it isn't the lack of oil, it is the lack of fuel (gasoline plus lubricant) and too much air. If the oxygen in the super heated cylinder does not combine with gasoline it will combine with the metals and wreck the engine.
I got a strong Brush Cutter from Dolmar. The Man who sold it to me said he always used the Brush Cutter with a richer mixture. He never said what mixture exactly. The Manual says 1:100, 1:50 and 1:40 is recommended. Im thinking now about using 1:25. The cutter can hold 0.5 litre. So with 1:25 mix I need to add 20 millilitres of oil and top it off with fuel. Im afraid the Brush Cutter will have Problems starting because of so much oil. Is my fear justified or not? Im happy about any opinions.
I doubt it’ll have issues starting… If it says 50:1 I use 40:1. The T-27 I have says 25:1 on the cap. Oil quality has improved but I still mix 20:1 & it generally starts first pull. I have two cycle weed eaters, mowers & leaf blowers so I keep 20:1 & 40:1 mixed.
I recently bought a Supmix chainsaw, model S-6251and, as per the instructions, I must use 25:1, 2 cycles engine oil, but I can't find any oil which has that ratio in its label. What can I do?? I'm very close to return it to Amazon
Hi. As long as you use 2 cycle oil, you need to mix it yourself to the specified ratio, you don’t actually buy it at that ratio. If you buy the 2 cycle oil and a mixing container then you can mix the fuel to oil ratio easily using the container or mixing bottle. This is the way all two stroke owners do this. I hope this helps and let me know how you get on with this Craig
Hi Craig i have a question to ask you. I have one of those chinese 58cc chainsaws it recommended 25-1 oil mix. Could i use 40-1 or 50-1 Stihl over on these chainsaws or 25-1 with stilh oil for it?
I have just secured a UK 🇬🇧 supplier of Amsoil Sabre. I have a range of saws from Jonsered Husky and Stihl with and without autotone/mtronic I was thinking of running a 50:1 ratio. What do you think? Amsoil say you can run it at 100:1. I always used to run 40:1 so it seems very strange to run such a ratio.
I don't like the 50:1 mix, regardless of which brand of 2 Cycle Oil is used. 50:1 Snowblower runs fine at 40:1, with no spark plug fouling. All of my other Outdoor Power Equipment is run at the manufacturers mix ratio. Especially, my oldest equipment from the 1980's. In those machines, I run 32:1.
The other thing to consider with recommendations whether cheap chinese or name brand is emissions regulations. By that I mean the OEM is going to recommend something that complies with regulations of the target market and will last long enough that there won't likely be a warranty claim. I don't know what regulations are like in the US but an interesting comparison is between the US and here in Australia. The US has fairly strict standards for new engines whereas Australia has no emissions regulations at all for non road engines and a lot of the cheap chinese products seem to run a lot nicer here in my experience than they appear to run in the US. I don't know this for a fact and there are other factors at play too, namely shipping to Australia is cheaper than the US or the UK so you can buy a higher quality chinese tool for the same price. I bought a chinese chainsaw for 108aud which is about 64gbp and it's amazing. High quality plastics, well tuned powerful engine, foam filter and a decent bar and chain. It also came with a spare spark plug and gasket kit which was nice. I have been using it very heavily and I'm still very impressed it handles eucalypt very well. Personally I run 40:1 most of the time, the Australian spec chinese tools seem to run a little rich compared to the US market so they get extra oil from the over fueling. The chainsaw asks for 25:1 for break in then 40:1 and I've been following that so far.
Maybe those companies who make the oil should be held accountable. They should let the customers know that they need to make a richer mix and what the equivalent ratio is while using their product.
Unless they have upgraded to the top standard lately; Stihl Ultra is not FD rated. I have switched to Husqvarna oil and have some Echo on hand to try too. The exhause odor is more tolerable with the Husky product, for whatever that is worth.
Ive used optimal opti two for around 40 years , never had a break down . 1 oz. To the gallon , i can cut back a dab on the fuel if im working something harder . Ive used it in every 2 cycle ive ever ran , and working on small engines for 40 years , thats quite a few .
Hi thank you for your question about the best 2-stroke mix strength for a 50 horsepower Mercury outboard motor. The optimal 2-stroke mix strength for your Mercury outboard motor can depend on several factors, including the specific model and year of your engine. Generally, most outboard motors from reputable manufacturers like Mercury will have specific requirements outlined in the owner's manual or on the motor itself. To provide a safe and efficient fuel mixture for your 50 horsepower Mercury outboard, I recommend the following steps: Consult the Owner's Manual: Refer to the owner's manual for your outboard motor to find the recommended fuel mixture ratio. This ratio typically ranges from 50:1 (50 parts gasoline to 1 part oil) to 100:1, depending on the model and year. Use High-Quality 2-Stroke Oil: Ensure you use a high-quality 2-stroke marine oil that is specifically designed for outboard engines. Using the correct oil is crucial for engine performance, lubrication, and longevity. Mix Properly: When mixing fuel and oil, always measure accurately to achieve the recommended ratio. Use a fuel mixing container and follow the manufacturer's guidelines to avoid errors. Consider Operating Conditions: If you frequently operate your outboard motor under high load or in harsh conditions, it may be beneficial to use a slightly richer oil mixture ratio (e.g., 50:1) for added engine protection. Regular Maintenance: Perform regular maintenance on your outboard motor, including checking and cleaning the fuel system components, to ensure optimal performance and reliability. If you have specific concerns or need further guidance, I recommend reaching out to a certified Mercury dealer or technician who can provide tailored advice based on your engine's specifications. Thank you for your question and for being part of our community. If you have more inquiries or need assistance, feel free to reach out! Best regards, Craig
Hi sorry dont know your name....watched several of your videos today and leaned a lot. Can I talk about my 50 year old 2 stroke motor bike....BSA BANTAM. since the 50s 60s BSA Recommended a 2 stroke mix of 20 to 24 to 1....with primitive mineral oil....the smoke from the used to be terrible....and gummed up pistons ring badly. I use a modern well known semi synthetic 2 stroke oil and run at 40/1. The oil is burn fully with the petrol with zero smoke. Extra oil gives a weaker petrol to air ratio as well...not good....2 strokes running weak lead to hot running..
Stihl chainsaw and trimmer, stihl oil only, 1:50. 10 years on, all good. But one thing: switching from regular red oil to the most expensive dark green full synth Ultra stihl oil, what a difference in cold starts after a month or two of non-usage (probably because of fuel stabilizers). THAT was a revelation. From then on, only Ultra oil.
@@robertoduranos5196 Oh, now I see I already watched his video. In my view, BS without any real proof, just a lot of blah-blah, inconsistent and so on.
Remember seeing my uncle who's a builder of 30 years pour petrol into his Sthl saw then casually pour in some 2-stroke. (Not Sthl). Always a bit smoky but probably never a seized engine! I'm a gardener myself so I get through a bit, got assorted of diffrent brand tools so generally go got a 1:40 mix in everything. I keep 2-3 litres of pre mix in a can and just give it a good shake.
Hi. To be honest I have used both over the years and I can tell you what I personally thinking about the whole flashpoint topic. The flash point of the oil is not typically the deciding factor when selecting two-stroke oil. Instead, the key factors to consider are the oil's viscosity, its compatibility with the engine, and the manufacturer's recommendations. The oil's flash point, which indicates its flammability, doesn't directly determine its suitability for a two-stroke engine. It's crucial to choose an oil specifically formulated for two-stroke engines and that meets the engine manufacturer's specifications for optimal performance and protection. Just my opinion and I hope it helps a little. Craig
Thank you. Very good video. I fly gas powered RC airplanes with high performance 2 stroke 50cc motors. I use STIHL full synthetic `40:1 and REDLINE oil about the same ratio.
Any, as long as there is no ethanol. Never run any % ethanol fuel in small gas engines. That goes for 2-stroke as well as 4-stroke. There is a noticable difference in operation, as well as not damaging the machine in the long run. Ethanol is hydroscopic, meaning it draws water to it. Even in the gas can or tank on a machine, it will draw out the moisture from the air and that water ends up in your fuel. Corroding parts, and causing damage.
Any advice on common faults on an honda gx35 4t engine ? Working fine one minute, then refused to run the next...went and changed all usual service parts, spark plug, filter etc...but i want to know if theres anything i shoulf be aware of before i let loose on the carburettor 😅
I have a question. I have a stihl MS311, it came with a 20 inch bar, but I am running a 25 inch bar, should I use a 40:1, or should I just use the 50:1 ? I’m using the synthetic stihl oil. Thank you.
Well, in my personal opinion, and to guarantee optimum performance, and for your saw's longevity, it's crucial to adhere to the manufacturer's recommendations when it comes to the fuel-to-oil ratio for your Stihl MS311 chainsaw. The MS311 is intended to run at a 50:1 fuel-to-oil ratio, in accordance with Stihl's specifications. No matter what bar length you're using, it's preferable to adhere to the suggested 50:1 ratio. Especially if you are using synthetic Stihl oil, which is really good quality. This ratio will indeed do a very good job at minimising the possibility of accelerated wear and damage by ensuring sufficient lubrication and protection for the chainsaw's engine. Although a 40:1 ratio might provide a little bit extra oil for lubrication, you will find that the engine may well smoke more, and run at a hotter temperature. It may lag a little as well, which will probably create the need for you to start making carburetor adjustments. So deviating from the manufacturer's recommendations, in your case, can result in less than ideal performance, and higher carbon buildup. So, regardless of the bar length you're using, my personal advice is to adhere to Stihl's recommended 50:1 fuel-to-oil ratio. If you are still unsure about this, then it's always a good idea to refer to the official Stihl documentation for your saw, or contact their customer care for advice relating to your chainsaw model. I hope has helped a little. Craig
@@TheRepairSpecialist thank you, sir. I do appreciate your advice on this one. I enjoy running my saw, and I want to keep my saw in top shape. I love watching your videos, and again you are a big help. I look forward to watching more videos.
In a two-stroke engine, the fuel mixture typically includes a proportion of two-stroke oil to ensure proper lubrication of engine components. However, when there's more two-stroke oil mixed with the fuel, it can lead to the engine running hotter for several reasons: Combustion Characteristics**: Two-stroke oil does not burn as cleanly or efficiently as gasoline. When there is more oil in the mixture, it can affect the combustion process, making it less efficient. Inefficient combustion can increase engine temperatures as the unburned oil can create deposits and hotspots. Lubrication vs. Cooling**: While two-stroke oil provides essential lubrication, it does not contribute to cooling the way gasoline does. Gasoline has a cooling effect as it evaporates in the intake process, absorbing heat. When the oil content is higher, there is less gasoline to provide this cooling effect, leading to higher operating temperatures. Deposit Formation**: Higher oil content can lead to more carbon and residue deposits inside the combustion chamber, on the spark plugs, and in the exhaust system. These deposits can create hotspots and restrict airflow, further increasing engine temperatures. In summary, while two-stroke oil is necessary for lubrication, an excess amount can result in a leaner mixture, inefficient combustion, and reduced cooling, all contributing to higher operating temperatures in the engine.
Hi guys I just wanted to Introduce to you my other Channel "Kirkman's Academy" - which i'm just getting started. It's a go-to channel for simple explanations for hard to grasp subjects such as physics, maths and chemistry etc. Here is the link: www.youtube.com/@kirkmansacademy/videos . Thank you so much for looking, and if these topics interest you then I hope to see you the there. Many thanks indeed. Craig 😊👍
You are an educated man with a sensible approach. I don't see anything wrong here. Keep up the good work. People need this information.
Thank you so much for your king feedback and words on support. I really appreciate it. Craig
first time to find and view your exceptional channel! your attention to detail but put in layman's terms makes this my favorite channel for small engine repair. Thank you from South Carolina, in the colonies. I'm a retired small farm raised chemical engineer so
I appreciate just how thoroughly and carefully you teach us...the only issue has to do with your pronunciation of carburetor. ;) Keep up the great work!! A grateful Yank!
I run everything at 25:1 and always have. My cheap gears seem to never die, had 10 year runs from cheap new weedeaters and the recoil goes or the shaft bearings wear out but engine still starts and runs perfectly. I use Mobil outboard usually as it has the blue die so it's easy to not mix fuels up. My exhausts are dripping with oil and smoke like mad but my rule is if it ain't smoking it ain't got enough oil. On my chainsaws the plugs oil up as I'm often idling or on and off throttle but my weedeaters are generally idled till warm then on full song until the tank runs dry with very little off throttle time and they stay quite clean but both types of machines I very rarely have a plug really gunk up. If anybody read this far another thing Indo to get extremely long service life from small 2 strokes is periodically blast them down with degreaser externally to keep the cylinder jug clean. Oil holds dust, dust builds up and essentially forms an insulating barrier between the alloy and the air. I'm sure that proper cooling has made my gear last so long as well as 25:1 mix always, in everything, regardless of manufacturers recommendations.
more oil means more power, but if it's leaking oil from the exhaust you could probably try 32:1
I have found that when using more oil in the mix, I get more muffler and spark arresror oil fouling. If it clogs the muffler, the engine can't breath and will stall after a bit. Time to remove the muffler and put a propane torch to it to burn off the oil. This has worked for me.
Uk
50-1 is 20ml to 1ltr
40-1 is 25ml to 1ltr
32-1 is 31ml to 1ltr
25-1 is 40ml to 1ltr
VP race gas, lucas 2 stroke mixed 40 to 1 in all my Stihls. My 1984 024 and 1979 032 both still run like new. I have on occasion run junk gas and whatever oil I can find but it gets mixed more oily. One can STP to a gallon of 30 weight on the bar. I believe part of the longevity of my saws is due to giving them a good long time to warm up before hammering the throttle. That, and never running them at redline.
Nice presentation.
I would NEVER run 50:1... I never go over 24:1. I dont care how high quality the engine is or high end the oil is. NEVER listen to the engine manufacturer on any matter that is influenced by the EPA, they are not going to give you the best advice for longevity of the engine.
A LOT of people I know in the trade would very much agree with you!
32 to 1 works good with small amounts of fuel, i.e. 1 ounce/30ml to 1qt/1liter. Easy to mix up.
I used MC1+ for the Ryobi, at 32 to 1.
Will use *more* oil (Maxima K2) for the Zenoah.
32 to 1 works in about everything for me I use valvoline two cycle. Love my lawn boy.
Thanks. I never considered the various qualitative differences between oils and machines in setting the mix. Brilliantly explained.
sir you rang the bell with this video, absolutely sound advice. It seems the prevailing notion these days is that modern oils are so advanced you not only can but should limit oil to 50:1 or even less oil. I do not care how advanced an oil is, there needs to be a certain concentration of oil molecules to allow good operation and prevent damage due to lack of lubrication. I too have run 32:1 since 1981 when I first started buying and using chainsaws. To this day those old saws are still running and the cylinder/piston assemblies look excellent. Never had plug fouling, or exhaust blockage and recent inspections show very minimal carbon build up. I even used Stihl oil for the majority of the time which is maligned by many as terrible for deposit build up. I do not buy that at all. I used these saws heavily in wood milling and firewood cutting. On the other side of things I have acquired many vintage saws on line as a collector and the amount of heat/low lubrication damage is astonishing for about 50% of these saws. I can assume the operators of these saws opted for the idea of low oil concentrations and worked their saws hard.
Awesome. Thank you for you feedback and contribution 👍👍👍
To mix any any ratio devide amount of gas by ratio desired. i.e. 12 oz / 50 = 0.24 oz.
In short formula form g/r=oil.
I have been using my Alpina BC43DS, ( 43 cc ) for like 15 years ( bought new) , I am not a commercial user but have substantial reason to use a 43 cc machine during the UK grass season , Its not babied but not abused, it has a genuine Japanese Mitsubishi engine 2 stroke engine ( not cloned) and its an absolute screamer if you need it to, (whet grass for instance and you cant wait for a dry day) . The manual says ( 50.1 fully synthetic) From the get go I have ran it on green bottle " Castrol TT " 2 stroke racing oil fully synth but @ 40.1, Not had a moments problem , just recently replaced the NGK spark plug ( avoid them no mark jobs from hardware stores ) and a new genuine part air filter, SO, quality engine, quality oil, quality parts, my own experience confirms your statement.
My machines (blower, string trimmer, etc.), according to the manufacturer, are 50:1 gas/oil ratio engines. But I run them at 40:1, been doing that for a long while. It smokes slightly, but I believe that is worth the benefits of less wear.
Nice one. 👍
I am an amature and have just started using a cheepy household chainsaw. Glad I found you on U-Tube. Thank you for the excellent advice. Will be looking at your other videos as well for advice.
Awesome, thank you! Craig
Great Vid Craig, thanks! Here in the states the 10% ethanol added to our fuel compounds our issues! I use Stihl Ultra at 40-1 and the only issues I see are as you stated fouled spark plugs and spark arresters but I check them monthly. Also I tell my customers to limit idle time and part throttle operation as it also increases the likelihood of carbon buildup. Thanks again. Knowledge IS Power!!
Chevron 94 ethanol free.
@@timcline2799 not available in SW Connecticut!
Sorry to hear. I’m in BC Canada. Before I found Chevron 94 ethanol free..what a headache it was figuring out the ethanol problem
Why not take the ethanol out its easy to do.
@@bobp6742 just keep in mind if you mix a little water in there to phase separate the gas and the ethanol, it will reduce the octane by about 10 points so you need to add octane booster after to bring it back up to the correct octane. Ethanol is very high octane
My personal preference is quality synthetic at 30:1 break in then 40:1 forever in all of my 2 strokes. Chain saw, weed eater, scooters, toys. I do use 50:1 break in on small 4 strokes. One tank only.
Great advice. I’ve been hearing lots of cases brand new high end chainsaws ruined by overheating caused by ethanol separation.
Stihl HP oil 50:1 to all
My stihl chainsaws! The oldest one my Ms 290, after 20+ years, never have any problem, and piston looks like new! Nice video man! 👍
Totally agree Craig, to be on the safe side a good Husqvarna oil 50 to 1 on a good machine I run with 45 to 1 and cheap machine is 25 to 1
Ive had a solo 2 stroke brush cutter for the past 20 years I remember once I picked up the wrong can filled it with straight petrol , noticed straight away it it lacked power (assuming it was the extra friction) turn it off and put the right fuel and saved from more damage.Also noticed with older 2 strokes more oil in the mix helps with compression ie more power.
Whatever I mix for my power saw I use for everything else, weed eater, hedge trimmer, and ECT.
I'm doing this for 35 40 years, and I never had to replace any of them for a motor problems.
Had a weed eater for 30 years I just finally went and bought a new one because of a problem with the shaft wearing out.
I hedge trimmers same way I've used them for years and years and years.
Couple years ago I went and bought a new pair hedge trimmer.
Thanks for this explanation. I bought a knockoff cheap chainsaw that recommends 20:1 for first 20 hours and 25:1 thereafter. That sounded really rich from what I have read is best to use in a chainsaw (I’m new to chainsaws). Couldn’t find any good explanations online for when it’s ok to use more oil until I found your video. Now I feel more confident following the manufacturer’s recommendation.
I've always used 50:1 Stihl regular mix, when I've needed to rebuild my equipment it always has a nice coating of oil on the upper and lower end. I also tend to run a touch rich.
So much this.
The top of the piston in the 25cc here has a coke buildup tho, so not sure if the burn is ✔☑
I've run my Chinese strimmer at 50:1 and it's now 17 years old and this time of year I run it for 40 minutes twice a week.
Same with my cheap Chinese chainsaw, never had any problems running them at 50:1.
Now I've said that I bet it goes bang next time I use it.
Awesome 👍
I have ran 32-1 for years with no issues. Chainsaws, weedeaters, Motorcycles. I use only gasoline with no ethanol. I use penzol 2 stroke. I go through gallons of fuel at times, I bought a used 2 stroke dirt bike with unknown hours. I went through the motor and worked on power valves. Old rings and I have over 70 hours on bike for myself.
Awesome, thanks for letting me know 👍
I use the amsoil saber synthetic at 50:1 in all my gear , even my vintage lawn boy mowers (32:1 on the original lawn boy oil). No problems in 10 years . I buy a case once every 5 years or so.
Spot on tips you have sir. I also might add to get the non ethanol fuel if you can get it. It's a bit more expensive, but way better. Easy starting, it's not so hard on the rubber a plastics. Ethanol just eventually ate up my rider gas cap insides and it crumbled down into a full tank of gas. Yes newer stuff is not as good as the old. Keep them running a little rich and they age like a fine wine. I have had BRAND NEW stuff shoot raw fuel out the exhaust.
Still ultra or Echo red armor at 40:1 in my Stihl, Husqvarna, Poulan, Mantis, Ryobi equipment. Seems to work fine.
just what I was looking for! keep up the good work! good on you!
Awesome! Thank you!
I Break in/ run in two tanks light duty or ideling at 16 to 1 then 32 to 1 after if its a modern chainsaw, 25 to 1 if its old or a Chinese chainsaw or trimmer .
Thanks.
40 to 45:1 Echo red armour imported into the UK mixed with Stihl 4mix silver canned fuel.
Not motomix, this contains the Ultra oil which i find low grade FB rated, dirty/dry burn.
Only use "FD" rated oils which are much better quality and have greater cleaning additives within them.
I like 40:1 only I don't use a two cycle oil. I use Mobil One synthetic motor oil high mileage. I use the the highest viscosity I can find. The high mileage also has additives that keep crank seals,and carb diagrams pliable. I've been doing this for twenty plus years and have had good service with it.
So this is NOT a 2 cycle oil, but rather regular motor oil?
@@Gadol_Adonai_196 Yeah, synthetic motor oil for cars. It's done a good job for me.
Do you use ethanol free?
why
Just got a new gas chainsaw (my previous one was battery powered.) I appreciate your insights (on this, and a couple other of you videos.)
Thanks
In the Stihl manual they give you a quantity of oil other than Stihl brand to use. If I remember correcrly it is about twice whart the Stihl brand oil is.
I use Husqvarna XP oil in all my 2-stroke machines, 2.5% (40:1) in Chinese engines and 2% (50:1) in brand name engines. I tried 3%, but the muffler was then spitting out oil, not only dripping, like it does at 2.5%. I disassembled several of those engines and found lubrication to be more than adequate. I might even switch to 2% for all machines. Modern brand name oils are really good.
Husqvarna LS (low smoke) 2-stroke is not good enough?
Why Husqvarna XP when the LS has fuel stabiliser added but the XP has NOT.
The XP was developed for Husqvarna Engines > 55cc.
@@set3777 I used LS in the past, actually. Was very satisfied with it. But then got a VERY good deal for a few 1L bottles of XP oil and now I'm using it. So, XP is not some of my preference, but just a good deal.
@@homopit42 But the LS+ already exceeded the JASO FC and FD specs but the XP (without +) is only rated at JASO FB according to some reports. XP+ may have finally passed the JASO FC and FD specs.
@@set3777 On the XP bottle, it says "JASO FD"
@@homopit42 Is it laelled XP+ or just XP
When decreasing the fuel/oil ratio so drastically (25:1), don’t you find that you have to readjust your carb? The increased temperature is most likely due to a lean condition as you’re reducing the available fuel to mix with air for each intake cycle.
If the fuel/oil ratio is decreased, surely you'd need less air, so adjust the carb. But what about the spark timing. You wouldn't need to start burning too early to burn all the air/fuel thoroughly!?
The mixture depends on the application if you have a modern-day 2-stroke such as a Weedeater or string trimmer whipper snipper whatever you want to call it that it typically runs a 50 to 1 but let's say you have older equipment or something like a motorcycle from the 1970s or 80s those call for a 40 to 1 mixture sometimes 25:1 I have a lawnmower that calls for 16:1 yes the oils these days are better but we have to remember that the tolerance of those engines are much less close together and need the extra oil to keep the parts from rubbing together example I also have a 1957 johnson 7.5 seahorse outboard 16:1 why you ask because it has babbitt bearings and those require large amounts of oil to lubricate them but you don't see that stuff being used much these days so 50:1 is common and if you are unsure of a an equipment age I was always told when unsure 32:1 will work yes it will smoke a bit but that means at least it getting lubricated
Thank you for sharing your insights on 2-stroke engine oil mix ratios and their applications. Your knowledge of different ratios for various equipment types, along with the historical context, is impressive. It's essential to consider the manufacturer's recommendations for the appropriate oil-to-fuel ratio for each specific engine, as you've rightly pointed out.
You've highlighted the importance of understanding the unique requirements of older equipment and how the tolerances of engine components can vary significantly. Your advice on using a 32:1 ratio when unsure is a practical approach to ensure proper lubrication, even if it may result in a bit more smoke.
Your willingness to share your expertise is greatly appreciated, and I'm sure it will be valuable to others navigating the world of 2-stroke engines and their oil mixtures. If you have any more insights or questions on this topic or any other, please feel free to continue the discussion.
Many thanks indeed
Craig
@@TheRepairSpecialist will do I am very knowledgeable on small engines 2 or 4 stroke vintage or modern and diesel engines too
Very interesting! I bought a Poulan Pro PR5020 (made by Husqvarna) and a gallon can of Husqvarna Bar & Chain Oil and a gallon of Husqvarna 50:1 Premium Fuel because I thought 50:1 is what's one the box packaging cover. I haven't used it yet. I recently read that all Poulan Pro chainsaws are 40:1, and now, after watching this, I notice on the box it says both 40:1 and 50:1, implying that I have a choice. I thought 50:1 meant more oil, but now I know better. However, the manual says to add 2.6 ounces of Full Synthetic 2-Cycle Oil to one gallon of Fresh Gasoline for a 50:1 mixture actually 49.23:1) without specifying Regular or Premium. To go with your recommendation, I'll have to exchange mine for 40:1. I'm going to contact Poulan or Husqvarna to see what they recommend and ask if 40:1 is OK. It says that E10 is OK, but E15 or E85. I run all my small engines with E0 Regular now, but I think this chainsaw will do better with the Premium premixed canned. Thanks for bringing this to my attention!
my equipment lasted longer under tough conditions. Had to change the plug more often after hard use for next season.
Regardless QUALITY oil is a must. You're playing Russian roulette with a fully loaded gun if you don't use good oil. The best you can hope for ,even if you step the mix up is a carbon stuck ring set. I don't know how many blowers,and trimmers I've had to tear down and decarbon.
Thanks for the video mate.. interesting.. I normally run at 40 to 1 in the cheapest ones but I use good quality oil..
I’m gonna call my Weed Whacker a Strimmer from now on! It just sounds cooler! 😂
I have a cheap asse petrol strimmer had it 4years 1st year it was the work horse ... I always let it warm up before using it ... 2nd year it was the back up Strimmer 3rd and 4th years it only comes out for big jobs as it has the handle bars and its so light compared to the newer ones ... its always been on 40-1 with budget oil from wilkos most of the time ... she's still running 💪
Great video, Craig 👍🏼. Thanks mate…
This video is exactly what I yearned for. Someone with tons of experience, no bios intentions, and a clear explanation. Unless you're an oil chemist why experiment using anything other than two cycle oil on your equipment?
Sounds logical to me, cheers for the help john
Thank you John. Craig 👍
I think I own over 20 2t engines, from rc, mx, v6 merc outboards, chainsaws, etc, even a 2t diesel.
My theory is you use quality oil, at a ratio that suits the application.
1:5 - 50:1, my most used ratio is 40:1.
H, wondered what you think about less known brand ouls, that are JASO FD or ISO EGD rated, ? Understand that most budget 2T oil is mineral based FB rated.
For long duration, high speed operation would you recommend the use of semisynthetic to achieve best protection for whole engine ?
I use 50:1 in all my branded/non branded equipment using brand name oil/s.I use 100:1 in my Yamaha outboard using yamalube.
I have a husqvarna 128 LD string trimmer that is running a little to hot at a 50:1 mix (husqvarna 2 cycle oil) that is required by the manufacturer. The tip of my spark plug is solid white, so I started mixing a 30:1 mix and it seems to be running a little better, but I will eventually move up to a 40:1 mix. My question is, while I am experimenting with different fuel and oil mixtures is it necessary to adjust my carburetor (Idle mixture screws 2300-3200 rps/H screw or Max Speed 8000 rpms)? If yes, how would I go about making those adjustments?
I use the stihl 50:1 mixed with non ethanol mid grade. Oil technology has become very advanced, so I stick with the manufacturer recommendations.
If using ethanol fuel, Lucas oil makes an additive to treat the fuel.
Where can I find that bottle with the gas line & oil line? Can someone help me pls
EBay or Amazon is the best bet maybe
I got mine from Amazon
Great video and advice. Thanks for sharing! 👍
I only use Aspen 2 in my high quality Two-stroke equipment, it's expensive but the motors are like new inside after years of regular usage. No smoke or smell either.
Yes very good oil in my opinion 👍👍
As always an oil video gets 2-stroke folks all churned up. I tend to stay out of the brawls even though I have my opinions. The worst thing about excess oil ratio is carbon buildup in the head flaking and scoring. An operator or tech can easily change plugs, burn off spark arrestors and even scrape exhaust ports but cleaning the cylinder head requires gaskets, disassembly, reassembly and vacuum and pressure testing the work. I like to ride motorized bikes with chinese engines, cheap transport that can park in bike racks while running errands at 25 to 30mph. The heads unbolt off the cylinders so cleaning carbon is really simple and cheap. The mix oil I settled on after years of cleaning heads is Red Armor, an Echo/Shindaiwa product, because it has de-carbonizer in the mix. I use non-ethanol in all small engines, mixed at 25:1 break in, 40:1 later.
So much this. The Stihl 25cc here has so much coke buildup on top the piston. Come back after cleaning (when changing cyl head gasket).
All the oven cleaners say not to use on aluminum, so cant get it off that way.
What to do❓
@@bacilluscereus1299 I use brake cleaner and 3m pads in green or red. I have some fittings for a die grinder as well but the pads will remove carbon good enough by hand
@@bacilluscereus1299 For cylinder heads I make mandrels out of 3/8" aluminum bar or hardwood dowell slotted enough to jam a 3m square in and remove it with brake clean and a drill. But I put a ground off spark plug in the port to protect the threads
I use strictly Stihl Ultra at 50 to 1 in all my Stihl Chainsaws and String trimmers. I have never had a single problem for 12 yrs. Synthetic oils are by far superior oils. And I use mobile 1 in my car and truck.
Awesome 👍
I recently sold a 40 year old Stihl 038 chainsaw, one of the very early ones. I shudder think how much firewood I had cut up with that let alone the trees it had cut down (Mostly Elms ravaged by Dutch Elm disease, willows etc. plus the odd oak) I only ever used Stihl's own oil in it at the correct 50:1 ratio, In all that time I never had to touch the engine itself apart from routine things like plugs and air filters but over the years dozens of chains , sprockets and a few bars of course. When the guy came to pick it up it started 1st pull and ran like a champ. Q.E.D.
That's incredible! It sounds like your Stihl 038 chainsaw was an absolute workhorse for you over the years, tackling all those trees and providing you with countless hours of service. It's a testament to both the quality of Stihl's products and your diligent maintenance. The fact that it started on the first pull even after 40 years is truly impressive. Thanks for sharing this great story of durability and reliability!
Thanks
Craig
Could you explain the marking's on mixing bottles and oil botttles please also the difference between red and green oil. thank's
I bought a brand new trimmer (Chinese brand). It was running fine until I refilled with my own stihl 50:1 mix. Now the engine sputters, suddenly loses power. What can be the cause?
Likely cause is that you did not retune the carburetor for that fuel mix.
I had some bad experiences with some lesser brands of lawn equipment so I went with Echo some years ago. I also only use Echo 2 stroke oil at 50:1 since I have heard of failures when other oils were used - and consequently not covered under warranty because of that. Over the years, the only thing I have needed to do outside of very little standard maintenance was rebuild one carb --> likely due to the ethanol in our pump gas.
Can I should use motul 800 for may grass cutter husqvarna 541rs?
Isn't there a standard formulated oil, like 10W30 or 5W20 4 stroke engine oil so that there's no guess work as to quality!?
Yes, there is. But rather than being about viscosity it is about testing the additive package in the lubricant.
There are three active standards bodies: 1) the American Petrolium Institue (API), 2) the Japanese Automobile Standards Organization (JASO), and 3) Europe's ISO. JASO and ISO have superceeded API's standards. JASO has four standards, FA, FB, FC and FD, (FD being the highest) . ISO has four standards, L-EGA, L-EGB, L-EGC and L-EGD (L-EGD being the highest) For bevity sake, the ISO adopted the JASO standards and extended them, improved them, by requiring more cleaners in the adative package.
There has been revolutionary improvements in two-cycle fuel additives. The FD standard requires that FD lubricants added to gasoline for a 50:1 ratio be backwards compatible for FA, FB and FC, plus be backwards compatible to higher fuel:lubricant ratios. FD mixed at 50:1 is required to lubricate engines that require a 40:1 mix, or a 32:1 mix, or 25:1 mix or whatever:1 no matter what the owner's manual calls for. It has that much lubricant in it and it is that good.
Only purchase lubricants that feature FD or L-EGD on the label. JASO's list of certified oils is easy to find on the internet.
The 'oil is cheap insurance argument' no longer applies. The 'use this ratio when you do this' argument no longers applies. Those arguments are almost 50 years old and come from the days when manufacturers were switching from using HD 30w oil at 20:1 to modern lubricant additives.
The one caveat i can think of is that your two-cycle engines need accurate carburetor adjustments. Ear-alone tuning is dangerous in modern engines using moden lubricants. Inadequate fuel to air mixtures through the carburetor is identified as inadequate lubrication because of the scoring. But it isn't the lack of oil, it is the lack of fuel (gasoline plus lubricant) and too much air. If the oxygen in the super heated cylinder does not combine with gasoline it will combine with the metals and wreck the engine.
Really wondering if i can use aspen 2 in my 1 to 40 parkside multitool 52cc 2t for 3 times a year use for 5 minutes. Until now it runs...
Yes I use a little more oil a dealership told me to use a little more.
👍
I got a strong Brush Cutter from Dolmar. The Man who sold it to me said he always used the Brush Cutter with a richer mixture. He never said what mixture exactly. The Manual says 1:100, 1:50 and 1:40 is recommended. Im thinking now about using 1:25. The cutter can hold 0.5 litre. So with 1:25 mix I need to add 20 millilitres of oil and top it off with fuel. Im afraid the Brush Cutter will have Problems starting because of so much oil. Is my fear justified or not? Im happy about any opinions.
I doubt it’ll have issues starting… If it says 50:1 I use 40:1. The T-27 I have says 25:1 on the cap. Oil quality has improved but I still mix 20:1 & it generally starts first pull. I have two cycle weed eaters, mowers & leaf blowers so I keep 20:1 & 40:1 mixed.
I recently bought a Supmix chainsaw, model S-6251and, as per the instructions, I must use 25:1, 2 cycles engine oil, but I can't find any oil which has that ratio in its label. What can I do?? I'm very close to return it to Amazon
Hi. As long as you use 2 cycle oil, you need to mix it yourself to the specified ratio, you don’t actually buy it at that ratio. If you buy the 2 cycle oil and a mixing container then you can mix the fuel to oil ratio easily using the container or mixing bottle. This is the way all two stroke owners do this.
I hope this helps and let me know how you get on with this
Craig
Hi Craig i have a question to ask you. I have one of those chinese 58cc chainsaws it recommended 25-1 oil mix. Could i use 40-1 or 50-1 Stihl over on these chainsaws or 25-1 with stilh oil for it?
I have just secured a UK 🇬🇧 supplier of Amsoil Sabre. I have a range of saws from Jonsered Husky and Stihl with and without autotone/mtronic I was thinking of running a 50:1 ratio. What do you think? Amsoil say you can run it at 100:1. I always used to run 40:1 so it seems very strange to run such a ratio.
very helpful video like all another from your channel
my Husqvarna 130 wore out after 2 years I always used 50.1 Husqvarna oil. it makes me wonder if I should have used 40.1
I agree
I don't like the 50:1 mix, regardless of which brand of 2 Cycle Oil is used.
50:1 Snowblower runs fine at 40:1, with no spark plug fouling.
All of my other Outdoor Power Equipment is run at the manufacturers mix ratio.
Especially, my oldest equipment from the 1980's. In those machines, I run 32:1.
Saber by amsoil has been reccomended to me, is it good for say a stihl fs240 trimmer?
25:1 is equal to how many milliliter (ml) ???
I use 40:1 with both my Husky weed whacker and Poulan Pro 4218 and use the Husky oil.
Awesome 👍👍👍
Hi guys could anyone explain 40 to 1 on a strimmer how many ML does i4 go on 5L of fuel
Good advice. Thank you
I always go rather heavy on oil, smoke & drips are much better than blown engines.
The other thing to consider with recommendations whether cheap chinese or name brand is emissions regulations. By that I mean the OEM is going to recommend something that complies with regulations of the target market and will last long enough that there won't likely be a warranty claim.
I don't know what regulations are like in the US but an interesting comparison is between the US and here in Australia. The US has fairly strict standards for new engines whereas Australia has no emissions regulations at all for non road engines and a lot of the cheap chinese products seem to run a lot nicer here in my experience than they appear to run in the US. I don't know this for a fact and there are other factors at play too, namely shipping to Australia is cheaper than the US or the UK so you can buy a higher quality chinese tool for the same price. I bought a chinese chainsaw for 108aud which is about 64gbp and it's amazing. High quality plastics, well tuned powerful engine, foam filter and a decent bar and chain. It also came with a spare spark plug and gasket kit which was nice. I have been using it very heavily and I'm still very impressed it handles eucalypt very well.
Personally I run 40:1 most of the time, the Australian spec chinese tools seem to run a little rich compared to the US market so they get extra oil from the over fueling. The chainsaw asks for 25:1 for break in then 40:1 and I've been following that so far.
Great! Thank you for letting us know. I really appreciate it. Craig
Slightly off subject, but what is your opinion on Aspen 2 fuel? I’m only an occasional user running a husqvarna 560xp and an old ms230..
Thanks Craig..
Maybe those companies who make the oil should be held accountable. They should let the customers know that they need to make a richer mix and what the equivalent ratio is while using their product.
This information came out of practical experience!
Thank you 👍👍👍
Unless they have upgraded to the top standard lately; Stihl Ultra is not FD rated. I have switched to Husqvarna oil and have some Echo on hand to try too. The exhause odor is more tolerable with the Husky product, for whatever that is worth.
Thank you for your feedback
Ive used optimal opti two for around 40 years , never had a break down . 1 oz. To the gallon , i can cut back a dab on the fuel if im working something harder . Ive used it in every 2 cycle ive ever ran , and working on small engines for 40 years , thats quite a few .
Ok, awesome 👍
What about a 50 horse Mercury outboard?
Hi
thank you for your question about the best 2-stroke mix strength for a 50 horsepower Mercury outboard motor.
The optimal 2-stroke mix strength for your Mercury outboard motor can depend on several factors, including the specific model and year of your engine. Generally, most outboard motors from reputable manufacturers like Mercury will have specific requirements outlined in the owner's manual or on the motor itself.
To provide a safe and efficient fuel mixture for your 50 horsepower Mercury outboard, I recommend the following steps:
Consult the Owner's Manual: Refer to the owner's manual for your outboard motor to find the recommended fuel mixture ratio. This ratio typically ranges from 50:1 (50 parts gasoline to 1 part oil) to 100:1, depending on the model and year.
Use High-Quality 2-Stroke Oil: Ensure you use a high-quality 2-stroke marine oil that is specifically designed for outboard engines. Using the correct oil is crucial for engine performance, lubrication, and longevity.
Mix Properly: When mixing fuel and oil, always measure accurately to achieve the recommended ratio. Use a fuel mixing container and follow the manufacturer's guidelines to avoid errors.
Consider Operating Conditions: If you frequently operate your outboard motor under high load or in harsh conditions, it may be beneficial to use a slightly richer oil mixture ratio (e.g., 50:1) for added engine protection.
Regular Maintenance: Perform regular maintenance on your outboard motor, including checking and cleaning the fuel system components, to ensure optimal performance and reliability.
If you have specific concerns or need further guidance, I recommend reaching out to a certified Mercury dealer or technician who can provide tailored advice based on your engine's specifications.
Thank you for your question and for being part of our community. If you have more inquiries or need assistance, feel free to reach out!
Best regards,
Craig
My big saw gets a hard work out . On a chainsaw mill ripping hardwood slabs. 40-1 with quality oil for me.
Ok, Thanks for the info. Craig
Hi sorry dont know your name....watched several of your videos today and leaned a lot.
Can I talk about my 50 year old 2 stroke motor bike....BSA BANTAM.
since the 50s 60s BSA Recommended a 2 stroke mix of 20 to 24 to 1....with primitive mineral oil....the smoke from the used to be terrible....and gummed up pistons ring badly.
I use a modern well known semi synthetic 2 stroke oil and run at 40/1.
The oil is burn fully with the petrol with zero smoke.
Extra oil gives a weaker petrol to air ratio as well...not good....2 strokes running weak lead to hot running..
Stihl chainsaw and trimmer, stihl oil only, 1:50. 10 years on, all good. But one thing: switching from regular red oil to the most expensive dark green full synth Ultra stihl oil, what a difference in cold starts after a month or two of non-usage (probably because of fuel stabilizers). THAT was a revelation. From then on, only Ultra oil.
Awesome, thanks for letting me know. Craig 👍
The Stihl Ultra is only FB rated, lesser quality and a dirty/dry burn. "FD" rated oils are much better. Echo and Hysky are mostly FD rated.
@@robertoduranos5196 Well, dunno, will investigate, but 10 years without any problems or wear, can't be bad, can it?
@@robertoduranos5196 I can check but there are many yt "connosiers" whom I don't believe a thing.
@@robertoduranos5196 Oh, now I see I already watched his video. In my view, BS without any real proof, just a lot of blah-blah, inconsistent and so on.
Remember seeing my uncle who's a builder of 30 years pour petrol into his Sthl saw then casually pour in some 2-stroke. (Not Sthl).
Always a bit smoky but probably never a seized engine!
I'm a gardener myself so I get through a bit, got assorted of diffrent brand tools so generally go got a 1:40 mix in everything.
I keep 2-3 litres of pre mix in a can and just give it a good shake.
Yes sir... I agree. Better to have too much oil and be on the safe side. And no ethanol also. That is poison in 2 Cycle engine equipment...
Is it better for the engine to use oil with a higher or lower flash point?
Hi. To be honest I have used both over the years and I can tell you what I personally thinking about the whole flashpoint topic. The flash point of the oil is not typically the deciding factor when selecting two-stroke oil. Instead, the key factors to consider are the oil's viscosity, its compatibility with the engine, and the manufacturer's recommendations. The oil's flash point, which indicates its flammability, doesn't directly determine its suitability for a two-stroke engine. It's crucial to choose an oil specifically formulated for two-stroke engines and that meets the engine manufacturer's specifications for optimal performance and protection.
Just my opinion and I hope it helps a little.
Craig
Thank you. Very good video.
I fly gas powered RC airplanes with high performance 2 stroke 50cc motors.
I use STIHL full synthetic `40:1 and REDLINE oil about the same ratio.
Thanks for sharing👍
Super video - thanks for bringing this up 👍👍
I use only 40:1 period and I’m 72 and never had a galled piston
Awesome
What octane gasoline do you recommend for 2-strokes?
Any, as long as there is no ethanol. Never run any % ethanol fuel in small gas engines. That goes for 2-stroke as well as 4-stroke. There is a noticable difference in operation, as well as not damaging the machine in the long run.
Ethanol is hydroscopic, meaning it draws water to it. Even in the gas can or tank on a machine, it will draw out the moisture from the air and that water ends up in your fuel. Corroding parts, and causing damage.
Any advice on common faults on an honda gx35 4t engine ? Working fine one minute, then refused to run the next...went and changed all usual service parts, spark plug, filter etc...but i want to know if theres anything i shoulf be aware of before i let loose on the carburettor 😅
I have a question. I have a stihl MS311, it came with a 20 inch bar, but I am running a 25 inch bar, should I use a 40:1, or should I just use the 50:1 ? I’m using the synthetic stihl oil. Thank you.
Well, in my personal opinion, and to guarantee optimum performance, and for your saw's longevity, it's crucial to adhere to the manufacturer's recommendations when it comes to the fuel-to-oil ratio for your Stihl MS311 chainsaw. The MS311 is intended to run at a 50:1 fuel-to-oil ratio, in accordance with Stihl's specifications.
No matter what bar length you're using, it's preferable to adhere to the suggested 50:1 ratio. Especially if you are using synthetic Stihl oil, which is really good quality. This ratio will indeed do a very good job at minimising the possibility of accelerated wear and damage by ensuring sufficient lubrication and protection for the chainsaw's engine.
Although a 40:1 ratio might provide a little bit extra oil for lubrication, you will find that the engine may well smoke more, and run at a hotter temperature. It may lag a little as well, which will probably create the need for you to start making carburetor adjustments. So deviating from the manufacturer's recommendations, in your case, can result in less than ideal performance, and higher carbon buildup. So, regardless of the bar length you're using, my personal advice is to adhere to Stihl's recommended 50:1 fuel-to-oil ratio.
If you are still unsure about this, then it's always a good idea to refer to the official Stihl documentation for your saw, or contact their customer care for advice relating to your chainsaw model.
I hope has helped a little.
Craig
@@TheRepairSpecialist thank you, sir. I do appreciate your advice on this one. I enjoy running my saw, and I want to keep my saw in top shape. I love watching your videos, and again you are a big help. I look forward to watching more videos.
How does it run hotter with more 2 stroke oil?
In a two-stroke engine, the fuel mixture typically includes a proportion of two-stroke oil to ensure proper lubrication of engine components. However, when there's more two-stroke oil mixed with the fuel, it can lead to the engine running hotter for several reasons:
Combustion Characteristics**: Two-stroke oil does not burn as cleanly or efficiently as gasoline. When there is more oil in the mixture, it can affect the combustion process, making it less efficient. Inefficient combustion can increase engine temperatures as the unburned oil can create deposits and hotspots.
Lubrication vs. Cooling**: While two-stroke oil provides essential lubrication, it does not contribute to cooling the way gasoline does. Gasoline has a cooling effect as it evaporates in the intake process, absorbing heat. When the oil content is higher, there is less gasoline to provide this cooling effect, leading to higher operating temperatures.
Deposit Formation**: Higher oil content can lead to more carbon and residue deposits inside the combustion chamber, on the spark plugs, and in the exhaust system. These deposits can create hotspots and restrict airflow, further increasing engine temperatures.
In summary, while two-stroke oil is necessary for lubrication, an excess amount can result in a leaner mixture, inefficient combustion, and reduced cooling, all contributing to higher operating temperatures in the engine.
I use Red Armor in all my Husqvarna, Stihl, and Echo saws at 50:1