You should add in the title words such as "brake bleeder", alternatively, you should add the words brake, bleeder, pressure, problems, sealing, leaking, air, not tight, silicone, paste, grease, fix, fixes, repair, modification in the tags section of the video. Lucky for me I found this video, I've just ordered the same chinese made unit from ebay. The way you've titled this video means that only those who own a Sealey VS820 would be able to search for this video, even though you've stated that this is a china made copy. Great video, thanks.
A word of warning, when I tried to use the vs820 today the main seal that goes between the pump and the reservoir was fitted poorly and caused it to warp horribly. I couldn't get it into the correct shape and had to abandon the brake bleeding attempt. However, I emailed Sealey and they replied with 1 hour that they would post me a replacement seal. Very impressive customer service I must say, well done Sealey!
OK - As a footnote . . . I stated in the video that the drop tube is HDPE - it is actually translucent polypropylene and I found it almost impossible to source, even though it is widely used in hand pumps for soap dispensers etc. HDPE might be persuaded to work but isn't the ideal solution and nor was PTFE - both proved difficult to engage on the nipple. In the end I purchased a small length of OD4mm x 3mm ID stainless tubing to merely insert into the end of the pickup tube. The original plastic will take on a "set" using boiling water (not quite hot enough unless you're very patient) or a hot air gun but if you use the latter - be careful not to melt/overheat it. I placed a length from a soap dispenser into the oven, set at 150Celsius and due to local "hotspots" , managed to destroy it. Usng heat in this way, the lower end of the stainless can be guided into the foot of the main vessel and trimmed to length.Also, the "elbow cap" is only 3/4 turn from "engaged" to fully tight. In other words, for a quarter of its circumference, it isn't held in place by the threads at all - simply put . . the cap is a little too shallow and the Sealey "spare" with a vertical connector is deeper and therefore, held in place more securely around it's full circumference. The former would appear O.K but will be susceptible to being "blown off" if either a poor fit (compare VERY carefully with your original cap) or if you over-pressure the bleeder.Be sure to bear the following in mind - the E20 thread cap has a diameter of 4.3cm AND therefore, a surface area of almost exactly 2.25 square inches. If you pump the bleeder up to only 20psi, you are generating a force of 45lbs trying to blow the cap off, which in turn, is only held on around 3/4 of it's available thread. If you inflate it to 30psi or above, that's 67lbs and more . . . . . . . BANG!!!!!!Bear in mind that the vehicle's fluid reservoir is not designed to be pressurised internally and remains at atmospheric pressure at all times during braking. I will probably buy the spare Sealey cap as a safer alternative but use the minimum pressure that I can get away with. I will start off at 6-8psi and if it takes a little longer to complete the job . . . so be it!!
They probably left the pick-up tube short in order to ensure it doesn’t pick up any dirt from the bottom of the vessel. But anyway thanks for the tips on the seals.
Sounds like getting the made in Taiwan Sealey, and not one of the made in China cheap copies, would be the best bet!! I just got a Sealey & it held 10psi straight away, no problems.
Very well explained, thanks. Will try Alba . Tried the Sealey universal adapter. Hopeless, cap distorts and leaks , need to reinforce. Still leaks !!, ,,,
Hi, read my footnote below your enquiry as I had the same issue sourcing the tubing and went for a different and ultimately more satisfactory solution!!
If you look on the master cylinder cap connector you will see stamped in the metal the letters '20SH'. if you type that in Google it will all become clear. They are available on ebay, but of course they come from China. Thanks for the advice I will tune up my VS820 as soon as possible.
You should add in the title words such as "brake bleeder", alternatively, you should add the words brake, bleeder, pressure, problems, sealing, leaking, air, not tight, silicone, paste, grease, fix, fixes, repair, modification in the tags section of the video. Lucky for me I found this video, I've just ordered the same chinese made unit from ebay. The way you've titled this video means that only those who own a Sealey VS820 would be able to search for this video, even though you've stated that this is a china made copy. Great video, thanks.
A word of warning, when I tried to use the vs820 today the main seal that goes between the pump and the reservoir was fitted poorly and caused it to warp horribly.
I couldn't get it into the correct shape and had to abandon the brake bleeding attempt.
However, I emailed Sealey and they replied with 1 hour that they would post me a replacement seal.
Very impressive customer service I must say, well done Sealey!
I got the replacement part from Sealey and it looks like they have upgraded the design of that seal.
Fitted it and bled my brakes with no issues.
OK - As a footnote . . . I stated in the video that the drop tube is HDPE - it is actually translucent polypropylene and I found it almost impossible to source, even though it is widely used in hand pumps for soap dispensers etc. HDPE might be persuaded to work but isn't the ideal solution and nor was PTFE - both proved difficult to engage on the nipple. In the end I purchased a small length of OD4mm x 3mm ID stainless tubing to merely insert into the end of the pickup tube. The original plastic will take on a "set" using boiling water (not quite hot enough unless you're very patient) or a hot air gun but if you use the latter - be careful not to melt/overheat it. I placed a length from a soap dispenser into the oven, set at 150Celsius and due to local "hotspots" , managed to destroy it. Usng heat in this way, the lower end of the stainless can be guided into the foot of the main vessel and trimmed to length.Also, the "elbow cap" is only 3/4 turn from "engaged" to fully tight. In other words, for a quarter of its circumference, it isn't held in place by the threads at all - simply put . . the cap is a little too shallow and the Sealey "spare" with a vertical connector is deeper and therefore, held in place more securely around it's full circumference. The former would appear O.K but will be susceptible to being "blown off" if either a poor fit (compare VERY carefully with your original cap) or if you over-pressure the bleeder.Be sure to bear the following in mind - the E20 thread cap has a diameter of 4.3cm AND therefore, a surface area of almost exactly 2.25 square inches. If you pump the bleeder up to only 20psi, you are generating a force of 45lbs trying to blow the cap off, which in turn, is only held on around 3/4 of it's available thread. If you inflate it to 30psi or above, that's 67lbs and more . . . . . . . BANG!!!!!!Bear in mind that the vehicle's fluid reservoir is not designed to be pressurised internally and remains at atmospheric pressure at all times during braking. I will probably buy the spare Sealey cap as a safer alternative but use the minimum pressure that I can get away with. I will start off at 6-8psi and if it takes a little longer to complete the job . . . so be it!!
They probably left the pick-up tube short in order to ensure it doesn’t pick up any dirt from the bottom of the vessel. But anyway thanks for the tips on the seals.
Sounds like getting the made in Taiwan Sealey, and not one of the made in China cheap copies, would be the best bet!!
I just got a Sealey & it held 10psi straight away, no problems.
Very useful video. I followed your advice and it works perfectly - no leaks. The supplied brake/clutch adaptor fits my 1994 Land Rover Defender.
Superb advice. You can look after my car any day!
My pickup tube is a good 3" from the bottom... Unfortunately I only realised once it started pulling ait through 😕
Superb framing
handy video...just modifying my pipe , pretty lousy how another inch would have made it better , dont want to be using 2ltrs every time
Thanks for the useful video, connector is a ¼ BSP Japanese style airline connector. ¼ BSP
is in fact 13.157mm confusing I know.
Very well explained, thanks. Will try Alba . Tried the Sealey universal adapter. Hopeless, cap distorts and leaks
, need to reinforce. Still leaks !!,
,,,
I reckon this could be used as a reverse bleeder kit. I would need to find a brake nipple adaptor
Thanks for a very helpful video.
I wasn't able to find the HDPE tube on ebay, could you post a link to it please?
Hi, read my footnote below your enquiry as I had the same issue sourcing the tubing and went for a different and ultimately more satisfactory solution!!
If you look on the master cylinder cap connector you will see stamped in the metal the letters '20SH'. if you type that in Google it will all become clear. They are available on ebay, but of course they come from China. Thanks for the advice I will tune up my VS820 as soon as possible.