Stan, the guys are Efficient and work together like a fine oiled machine. They get more done then larger crews. Their level of excellence and pride shows in everything they do. God bless ya'll.
You guys nailed this one from the wall to the patio love how much pride everyone has in your crew keep pumping these videos out love it great job dirt monkeys 👌
fyi, the effort you took to make this soundscape has not gone un-noticed. seems like a neat idea, overlap the audio of that tool ,with this tool. giving each process their own voice. no voice-over required. the work "speaks for itself" i wonder how tough it would be to get sounds for the manual processes too, the scraping of the trowel, the thumping of the manual packer etc. im liking this idea more and more as i think about it.
Good job to the editor for the sound design. Not many people understand how hard it is to balance real world sounds (which, in a time lapse are taken from somewhere else usually) along with music. Definitely good job on that
Looks awesome. I have done a couple of my own diy homeowner patios and they never turned out perfect. They were ok, but not perfect. Your videos gave me the confidence to do a 500 sq ft patio with a partial surround wall and a natural gas fire pit. With your tips and tricks, this one turned out perfect.
@@Dirtmonkey I started watching you a couple of years ago when you were talking about a Hiniker plow. I have a Hiniker V plow and have been impressed with it.
Now I want to try to tackle a paver sidewalk and patio... After watching a bunch more Dirt Monkey videos to build confidence. Maybe next year I'll just do it! Love these videos!
Beautiful job. Clients had to be thrilled with the excellant work your crew did. Also, just want to give a shout out of 'attaboy' to your video editor. Great work too.
I'm going to do any Contractors I might hire in the future a favour... My Patio will be poured and stamped coloured concrete... That said, this is an AMAZING Job...
Great video You should look into leasing a John Deere 50g or 60g excavator for the rest of the season. They seem like they would be a great machine for your type of work.
I’ll definitely be needing experts like this in my future project. Any recommendations on the NJ phillipsburg area!!! I would love it if you guys are around!!
Yep, must be fall. As soon as cool temps start the pace of work speeds up. Why? Well heck the ground is going to freeze 🥶 and that ends working with dirt and snow ❄️ will start to fall. Gee hope spring comes early 🤞. Thanks 😌
So why are so many buckets of dirt needing to be brought in and added back in when at the beginning it seemed like there was dirt being removed?? Does there need to be a slope away from the foundation or does water just drain through the space in the pavers? Are you using polysand to fill or something else?
1:54 the soil turns dark, was that just wet class 5? And I remember that you normally cut the outside soldier course so that there aren't gaps, is that something you will do on this project or did the client want gaps? Great job all around, love the comprehensive timelapse showing start to finish.
What is the dead blow sledge hammer for? Is that to supplement the click 'n drop and re-straighten? If so, do they just use seam lines as reference? Thanks for all these videos.
Happy Wednesday Stan! Are there any mowing videos on the pipeline? Keep up the great work! Got to help lay my first paver patio this last week! Pretty cool experience!
Always great videos... And great background music. But I'd like to know more about the background music. They seem to come from 'copyright free' sites but it looks like you still have to purchase a monthly/yearly plan for licensing to use them. Is your background music from these types of plans?
I got a question I saw a paver walkway that has an arch to it and I've walked down it alot and started wondering if that was a normal way to build them with maybe a 1/4 inch or if it was just a mistake?
Crowning a walkway helps shed water to the sides, like a road. Also, the center is where the majority of traffic will travel. Crowning the center means that as it settles under the traffic faster than the edges, it doesn't become a low spot that collects water and looks bad. The right way to do it would be to crown your base material, but alot of people will just add some sand.
You do it so doffrent from the way I was taught. I use 2x4s Fram out tye area of patio do the same ad 4 to 6 inches of gravel. 1 inch of stone dust not sand. I've never used sand. Bring the sand up to top of 2x4s and lay pavers on top then remove 2x4s which suck!!! Then loamthe sides and tyen thay good edging. I've never used pipes. Been told I need to but this is how I was taught. Is this a ok way to do it or should I learn your way?
That looks awesome. Thanks for the detailed video. Any advice anyone can provide in terms of joint sand recommendations, polymeric or otherwise? Polymeric seems to require a good amount of regular maintenance that I'm not interested in. I'll be finishing up installing around 180 SQ ft of Holland pavers in Wisconsin within the next few weeks. Thanks for any feedback
some people are saying gator base will last up to 15 years. I haven't seen a polymeric sand last that long in Minnesota but maybe it does in other parts of the country.
An episode or two back in this series he goes over his choice on that and his reasoning. When I first started watching him I am pretty sure he was using poly sand but has now changed and uses regular sand. Can’t argue with a change like that if someone has been doing something for awhile and realizes that a way they do one part of a job or another can be improved upon and they change their ways to incorporate it. Some people are stubborn and do same ol thing even though they realize they should change it.
Thanks to you both for the feedback. Now that you mention it I do recall a video where Dirt Monkey did a comparison like this. I'll track that down. This seems to be a pretty good comparison as well. 14:10 for results ruclips.net/video/SG4aoTEgjL0/видео.html
Gary, for what it is worth, (I have posted this in Diet Monkey video before but will say it again) I was directed towards Stan’s videos by my wife’s cousin who works with his father doing hardscapes here in upstate NY. I asked how I could lay out 2100 square feet of pavers around a pool we had put it in as well as patio out my front door. Cousin wrote back with a link to Stan’s video on the subject stating “this is how we do it.” I had excavations to help set my grades in sub base and also place the 2 foot by 4 foot block retaining walls in two spots (I have a sloped property). I purchased 2100 square of techo blok pavers and also versa lok blocks for a retaining wall with stairs in the middle. Got concrete sand for bedding and went to work. I put in patio out my front door and also a length around one pool side in fall of 2017. The following summer I finished the pavers around the pool. In 2019 and 2020 I built a massive pizza oven (I had a 4 by 5 5 inch rebar filled piece of stamped concrete I used as the base, excavators set in 2017 when they did my sub base). I built the rest out of block, fire brick, and then old reclaimed brick I bought used. I never have done any masonry work before and it turned out really well still. To my point now, I used poly sand for all of my pavers. I started to see last year that it was failing in spots. It is a chore to remove the old. I have sat on the pavers and dug with a screw driver, also had my kids help here and there. I did not want to use a pressure washer and possibly screw up the sand base under the pavers. If I had to do it over again. I would have just used sand and swept new in each spring. Good luck with your project.
Would love to know a ballpark estimate of a job such as this. I mean the labor involved is so intensive....and material costs these days...forget about it. Either way, what an excellent overall project. You got a great group of guys working. Teamwork
Great video! Do you have any tips for what holds the gravel/sand in place along the edge once the job is done? For example, if you’re going to have grass come up to the pavers, do you just raise the area beside the pavers with topsoil and then grow your grass? Thanks!
The paver edging should sit directly on the base aggregate. The area excavated is typically 4-6" wider than the footprint of the patio. This means there is base aggregate 4-6" past the edge of the pavers, and only sits a few inches below finished grade (thickness of pavers + setting bed, usually 3ish inches). This leaves a pretty thin profile of topsoil under any grass that is up against the patio edge. If it's good soil, the grass will be fine. That said, I usually like to border my patios with some additional landscaping, whether that's a planting bed, a strip of decorative stone, a knee wall, or some combo of all three. This brings a lot of visual appeal to the area, and typically at a comparably low price. In the case of a knee wall, it adds some built in seating for a future fire pit or other outdoor feature. Landscaping provides privacy. A decorative stone strip can hide a drain tile that brings runoff from the patio to a different location if needed. It also directs foot traffic on and off the patio to a consistent path, and you can use something like stepping stones to help keep traffic off the grass.
@@JoeyCarb thank you! The area we put pavers in is not for a patio but rather for under the faucet for the hose. The intention is to keep that area clear of mud, but not go too far into the yard. So it sounds like it’s okay to put grass right up against the pavers, we’ll just have to make sure we have some good soil! Thanks again.
@@julie-anneandjoshk5080 When you say faucet I'm assuming you mean the hose connection (I call it a hose bib, regional words are funny like that). This means it will see a lot of water. Since the area is probably pretty small I would recommend you border the pavers with some stone like a ¾" river rock. The water runoff at the edge of the pavers is going to drown the grass making it weak, which will diminish it's ability to stabilize the soil, which will cause the soil to become muddy and wash away putting you back at square one. The stone will create a place for the water runoff to disperse before hitting soil and grass. Even just a 6" wide border will have a big impact. You can buy this in bags from big box stores or a local landscape supply store for fairly cheap.
We use the paver restraints which allow the grass to grow directly up to the patio. The top of the paver restraint sits just lower than the top of the patio to create no gapping between your hardscape and softscape.
Building a raised patio in Pittsburgh, PA (from MN though!) ... so I have a wall with a cap for the step tread. How far below the cap do I set my sand bed height? The caps get set first so the paver needs to match. I've never done this so I don't know how much the pavers will settle once fill the joints with sand and then compact at the end.
It doesn't change anything. The application will determine the thickness of the base. Pavers that see vehicular traffic should have a minimum of 8" of base. If it's anything more than a small driveway on perfect subgrade, I'm doing 10" or 12" with geotextiles for added strength. One thing to note, the sand is screened at 1" but will compact by 20-25%. Typically you want to install pavers 1/8” above "finished grade". This promotes water runoff and accounts for a bit of settling. So in the case of a typical 2 ⅜” paver, I will factor the paver and sand layers as a combined 3" when setting where I want the top of my pavers to be after compaction. 2⅜ + ¾ = 3⅛.
The thickness of the pavers goes into the calculations early to determine your initial cut depth as well. IE- How deep you excavate below proposed top of patio grade.
Great stuff !! The whole job had a serious amount of involvement.. The crew seems to click with one another great.. Hope your treating them good.. Im curious what kind of fencing you plan to use on the great southern wall?
Honest question here. Why all the sand spread on top of the pavers, and why tamp it in with the vibrator? please dont make fun of me for not knowing. Just trying to learn something. I reckon that is what questions are for. Bless you bro! as always i love your videos. Prefer them to have more of you explaining what the steps are and why you do them though. Then i dont have to look like an idiot posting stupid questions. LOL
Don't quote me but as a guess, I think it was to fill in the space in between the tiles. The vibrating pad is to get the tiles moving just enough to squeeze the sand particles in between the spaces of each tile.
The compacting does two things. First is it sets the pavers. They’ll compact about 1/4 inch or so, so if your setting pavers and want them level with a concrete pad or something, then you set them a touch high and after compacting they will be level. It also helps settle the sand in between the pavers so they don’t shift side to side. They also look really nice when the sand is done, kind of like running caulking on trim or grout on tile. Just makes it flow nice and fills in the voids.
Honda Guy nailed it. We "bed" the pavers by tamping them nd it settles the sand all the way to bottom of the joint spaces. Thats why we sweep in multiple courses.
Hey Stan it's Devin with D M LANDSCAPE DESIGN LLC. I was wondering could I use asphalt millings as you use the 3/4 clear ?.. or just stick to what everyone uses which is granite dust here in GA
Im not sure about millings, but you can use asphalt for the base. It needs weep holes since the asphalt is basically impervious, and will sit on a layer of open graded aggregate. Fill the weep holes with a smaller aggregate, typically 3/8”, and place a piece of nonwoven filter fabric over the weep hole to prevent sand migration. I would avoid using what is typically referred to as "stone dust" for the base. It doesn't drain well and becomes water logged. This leads to heaving in the winter. Even in warmer climates it is not recommended. For commercial work it is not an approved material in any jurisdiction that I'm aware of, and is not approved for use as a base material by manufacturers and the ICPI.
Seems like there was a lot of wasted steps, your base should have been more level from the start. I'd suggest getting a rotating laser level and using it to set your grade before laying the class 5.
Everyone knows the value of multiple thin lifts, few do it. No one does it like I saw in this video. That patio will NEVER subside. Very nice work.
Yes.. They went the extra mile
Thanks Guys!
AMAZING crew....EVERYONE has pride in what they do and what the final results look like.....
Thank you sir!
You guys have it down to a science!!! Everybody knows what they’re doing and no wasted moves. I like how they compacted right over the string!
They have it pretty well dialed in.
Stan, the guys are Efficient and work together like a fine oiled machine. They get more done then larger crews. Their level of excellence and pride shows in everything they do. God bless ya'll.
Thank you kindly!
You guys nailed this one from the wall to the patio love how much pride everyone has in your crew keep pumping these videos out love it great job dirt monkeys 👌
Thank you sir!
Watching your crew kneel for this job hurts my old knees.....great job guys.......
Yeah- it takes it toll on knees.
fyi, the effort you took to make this soundscape has not gone un-noticed.
seems like a neat idea, overlap the audio of that tool ,with this tool. giving each process their own voice. no voice-over required. the work "speaks for itself"
i wonder how tough it would be to get sounds for the manual processes too, the scraping of the trowel, the thumping of the manual packer etc.
im liking this idea more and more as i think about it.
I like it as well. Every now and then just shutting up and showing whats happening.
What an incredible space they now have due to your team's magnificent work!
Thank you very much!
Awesome!! As you are well aware you have an amazing crew!!
Thanks Derek.
I need to go back and see part one again. I was under the weather and don't remember much. Thank you for these videos. 😊🙏
Hope you feel better soon! part 1 was on Monday
Good job to the editor for the sound design. Not many people understand how hard it is to balance real world sounds (which, in a time lapse are taken from somewhere else usually) along with music. Definitely good job on that
Danny (the editor) got it dialed in.
I came for the tools, stayed as your music selection is always 👌
Cool!😎. Thanks for staying!
Looks awesome. I have done a couple of my own diy homeowner patios and they never turned out perfect. They were ok, but not perfect.
Your videos gave me the confidence to do a 500 sq ft patio with a partial surround wall and a natural gas fire pit. With your tips and tricks, this one turned out perfect.
That is awesome!
You have made yet another amazing video
You seem to never be able to make a bad video!!!
Never stop thank you
Wow- Thank you!
They dropped a lot of coin on that backyard. You crew is awesome, great video Stan.
Thank you!
Today it's andouille sausage and jambalaya again. Last night we made andouille mac n cheese and that was phenomenal. Now on to the show... 🙂
LOVE jambalya. One of My favorite dishes!
Great video keep up the good work have a good day god bless 👊👊👊👊
Thanks Aaron and same to you. have an awesome day and God bless bro👊
Man, that's some impressive workmanship.
Thank you!
@@Dirtmonkey
I started watching you a couple of years ago when you were talking about a Hiniker plow.
I have a Hiniker V plow and have been impressed with it.
Me to- I still like my Hiniker plows.
Now I want to try to tackle a paver sidewalk and patio... After watching a bunch more Dirt Monkey videos to build confidence. Maybe next year I'll just do it! Love these videos!
Glad you like them!
Why do I love this channel so much?
what ever the reason is- thank you!
I would have loved to have seen the final, final...with the sod, furniture, grill, birdbath, and windchime.
Thank you Stan for another awesome video god bless
Hope you like this format- trying out a little change of pace today.
Have to say Stan - you and your guys did a beautiful job. Nice project all the way around.
Thanks a bunch!
Really like the signature at the end
its a fun touch to end a job.
Thanks for the ride along, Stan!! Enjoyed it very much. Thanks again!
Cool! Hope you enjoyed it.
Beautiful job. Clients had to be thrilled with the excellant work your crew did. Also, just want to give a shout out of 'attaboy' to your video editor. Great work too.
Thank you very much!
That is some thorough prep work. Grade A.
Thank you!
Looks great Stan your guys always doing great work 🇺🇲
Thanks 👍
Excellent ending to a series of great videos. Totally dug it. I enjoyed this format along with the others. On merge to the next projects, can’t wait.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Enjoyed the series, it turned out nice. Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching along!
Great work! Thank you for the video.
Glad you liked it!
Wow!, your crew works really fast! Speedy Petes they are.
laying pavers comes pretty natural to them.
Love this patio! Well done Stan!
Thank you🙏
Looks great . Amazing work and thanks for sharing this with us take care
Thanks for being here hayden.
@@Dirtmonkey You're welcome bud 👍🏻 stay safe over there
Looks fantastic, crew done a great job 👍
Thanks 👍
Another cool video Stanley.
You have a well oiled machine!
Thank you sir!
well done! on a side note I really enjoy the tunes!
Beautiful job 👍 🇬🇧🇺🇸
I'm going to do any Contractors I might hire in the future a favour...
My Patio will be poured and stamped coloured concrete...
That said, this is an AMAZING Job...
😂👍
Stan looking great I saw them making the radius with the paver edging I usually use plastic conduit but whatever works for you👍
The edging works great and it helps we have it handy😃
Great time lapse
Thanks Charles!
Love the vids
Thanks Clay.
Stan that is some good stuff in video 👍
Glad you enjoyed it Robert. Thanks for your support through all these videos.
Great work as always. Can’t wait until I finally get do this. Too many tire kickers in my area though :/
best of luck with your project when it all comes together for you.
Thanks man God bless.
here to help
Thanks Nash!
Love the profile pic stan
Thank you!
Cool in fast forward
Glad you liked it!
Great video
You should look into leasing a John Deere 50g or 60g excavator for the rest of the season. They seem like they would be a great machine for your type of work.
Ii think I will be testing out a new Mini excavator
@@Dirtmonkey can’t wait!! Hope you like enough to buy it lol
Am I allowed to watch this while stuck in traffic ? Gotta love Los Angeles traffic.
I was only there (LA) once- I couldn't do that traffic. It takes a very patient person.
Great video Stan! Hope the winter treats you guys well!
Any new fun toys for this upcoming snow season??
I still haven't lined up any new toys yet but their is plenty of time.
great job, will you be putting in the grass as well?
No- that part is by the customer.
Done 1 brick driveway. It sucks but iv seen a few things iv done differently thats seeing you do. Regardless its tedious work
Yeah- projects like this are labor intensive.
oh you have a go pro i just got the go pro 8 black it does time lapse like that too
Thats what I use but 7's instead of 8's
I’ll definitely be needing experts like this in my future project. Any recommendations on the NJ phillipsburg area!!! I would love it if you guys are around!!
Great work guys. Stan is there a reason you didn’t show them cutting the curve?
Yep, must be fall. As soon as cool temps start the pace of work speeds up. Why? Well heck the ground is going to freeze 🥶 and that ends working with dirt and snow ❄️ will start to fall. Gee hope spring comes early 🤞. Thanks 😌
Today was the first cold day we had and happens to be the first day of fall. Winter is coming to fast
So why are so many buckets of dirt needing to be brought in and added back in when at the beginning it seemed like there was dirt being removed?? Does there need to be a slope away from the foundation or does water just drain through the space in the pavers? Are you using polysand to fill or something else?
We are importing structural soil as the base and removing unsuitable soil
1:54 the soil turns dark, was that just wet class 5? And I remember that you normally cut the outside soldier course so that there aren't gaps, is that something you will do on this project or did the client want gaps? Great job all around, love the comprehensive timelapse showing start to finish.
The dark soil is wet class 5 like you said.
What is the dead blow sledge hammer for? Is that to supplement the click 'n drop and re-straighten? If so, do they just use seam lines as reference? Thanks for all these videos.
its basically a persuador. A good hammer is always needed on almost anything we do.
@@Dirtmonkey nice... falls into the get a bigger hammer category!
Like watching art
Glad you enjoy the show!
Happy Wednesday Stan! Are there any mowing videos on the pipeline? Keep up the great work! Got to help lay my first paver patio this last week! Pretty cool experience!
yes a new mowing video will be out in 12 days or so
@@Dirtmonkey awesome!
Always great videos... And great background music. But I'd like to know more about the background music. They seem to come from 'copyright free' sites but it looks like you still have to purchase a monthly/yearly plan for licensing to use them. Is your background music from these types of plans?
artlist- I pay $250 a year to access music
Hey Stan, why don't you guys just excavate the entire patio with the ASV? I find the excavators to be slow.
we need more precision next to the foundation of the house
Looks great! What's next up on your video plate?
Installing an old style Amish fence on a farm
I got a question I saw a paver walkway that has an arch to it and I've walked down it alot and started wondering if that was a normal way to build them with maybe a 1/4 inch or if it was just a mistake?
Crowning a walkway helps shed water to the sides, like a road. Also, the center is where the majority of traffic will travel. Crowning the center means that as it settles under the traffic faster than the edges, it doesn't become a low spot that collects water and looks bad. The right way to do it would be to crown your base material, but alot of people will just add some sand.
1/4 inch is an aggressive arch on a sidewalk that is probably 4 feet wide or so? Could be differential settlement
Is Sam going to give that review on those mask for cutting concrete. I've been looking for a solid mask for masonry work
RZ masks is what Blaine has used for 5 plus years and loves it.
You do it so doffrent from the way I was taught. I use 2x4s Fram out tye area of patio do the same ad 4 to 6 inches of gravel. 1 inch of stone dust not sand. I've never used sand. Bring the sand up to top of 2x4s and lay pavers on top then remove 2x4s which suck!!! Then loamthe sides and tyen thay good edging. I've never used pipes. Been told I need to but this is how I was taught. Is this a ok way to do it or should I learn your way?
That looks awesome. Thanks for the detailed video.
Any advice anyone can provide in terms of joint sand recommendations, polymeric or otherwise? Polymeric seems to require a good amount of regular maintenance that I'm not interested in. I'll be finishing up installing around 180 SQ ft of Holland pavers in Wisconsin within the next few weeks.
Thanks for any feedback
some people are saying gator base will last up to 15 years. I haven't seen a polymeric sand last that long in Minnesota but maybe it does in other parts of the country.
An episode or two back in this series he goes over his choice on that and his reasoning. When I first started watching him I am pretty sure he was using poly sand but has now changed and uses regular sand. Can’t argue with a change like that if someone has been doing something for awhile and realizes that a way they do one part of a job or another can be improved upon and they change their ways to incorporate it. Some people are stubborn and do same ol thing even though they realize they should change it.
Thanks to you both for the feedback. Now that you mention it I do recall a video where Dirt Monkey did a comparison like this. I'll track that down.
This seems to be a pretty good comparison as well. 14:10 for results
ruclips.net/video/SG4aoTEgjL0/видео.html
Gary, for what it is worth, (I have posted this in Diet Monkey video before but will say it again) I was directed towards Stan’s videos by my wife’s cousin who works with his father doing hardscapes here in upstate NY. I asked how I could lay out 2100 square feet of pavers around a pool we had put it in as well as patio out my front door. Cousin wrote back with a link to Stan’s video on the subject stating “this is how we do it.” I had excavations to help set my grades in sub base and also place the 2 foot by 4 foot block retaining walls in two spots (I have a sloped property). I purchased 2100 square of techo blok pavers and also versa lok blocks for a retaining wall with stairs in the middle. Got concrete sand for bedding and went to work. I put in patio out my front door and also a length around one pool side in fall of 2017. The following summer I finished the pavers around the pool. In 2019 and 2020 I built a massive pizza oven (I had a 4 by 5 5 inch rebar filled piece of stamped concrete I used as the base, excavators set in 2017 when they did my sub base). I built the rest out of block, fire brick, and then old reclaimed brick I bought used. I never have done any masonry work before and it turned out really well still. To my point now, I used poly sand for all of my pavers. I started to see last year that it was failing in spots. It is a chore to remove the old. I have sat on the pavers and dug with a screw driver, also had my kids help here and there. I did not want to use a pressure washer and possibly screw up the sand base under the pavers. If I had to do it over again. I would have just used sand and swept new in each spring. Good luck with your project.
@@MrChristopoop Thanks for all that info. It looks like I'll be deciding between something like the Gator Maxx G2 or the EZ Joint
Would love to know a ballpark estimate of a job such as this. I mean the labor involved is so intensive....and material costs these days...forget about it.
Either way, what an excellent overall project.
You got a great group of guys working. Teamwork
I couldn’t even imagine what this cost. Huge job.
13k-17k with material and labor in North Carolina
@@AlexG-zu3je how? I would think at least 20k-25k
Since this was a on a private residence I don't feel comfortable sharing those numbers. Sorry
@@Josh-pg3km square footage, lol that'd be a little high here. Lol
Great video! Do you have any tips for what holds the gravel/sand in place along the edge once the job is done? For example, if you’re going to have grass come up to the pavers, do you just raise the area beside the pavers with topsoil and then grow your grass? Thanks!
The paver edging should sit directly on the base aggregate. The area excavated is typically 4-6" wider than the footprint of the patio. This means there is base aggregate 4-6" past the edge of the pavers, and only sits a few inches below finished grade (thickness of pavers + setting bed, usually 3ish inches). This leaves a pretty thin profile of topsoil under any grass that is up against the patio edge. If it's good soil, the grass will be fine. That said, I usually like to border my patios with some additional landscaping, whether that's a planting bed, a strip of decorative stone, a knee wall, or some combo of all three. This brings a lot of visual appeal to the area, and typically at a comparably low price. In the case of a knee wall, it adds some built in seating for a future fire pit or other outdoor feature. Landscaping provides privacy. A decorative stone strip can hide a drain tile that brings runoff from the patio to a different location if needed. It also directs foot traffic on and off the patio to a consistent path, and you can use something like stepping stones to help keep traffic off the grass.
@@JoeyCarb thank you! The area we put pavers in is not for a patio but rather for under the faucet for the hose. The intention is to keep that area clear of mud, but not go too far into the yard. So it sounds like it’s okay to put grass right up against the pavers, we’ll just have to make sure we have some good soil! Thanks again.
@@julie-anneandjoshk5080 When you say faucet I'm assuming you mean the hose connection (I call it a hose bib, regional words are funny like that). This means it will see a lot of water. Since the area is probably pretty small I would recommend you border the pavers with some stone like a ¾" river rock. The water runoff at the edge of the pavers is going to drown the grass making it weak, which will diminish it's ability to stabilize the soil, which will cause the soil to become muddy and wash away putting you back at square one. The stone will create a place for the water runoff to disperse before hitting soil and grass. Even just a 6" wide border will have a big impact. You can buy this in bags from big box stores or a local landscape supply store for fairly cheap.
We use the paver restraints which allow the grass to grow directly up to the patio. The top of the paver restraint sits just lower than the top of the patio to create no gapping between your hardscape and softscape.
Does a fence need to be installed around the top of that wall since it’s 11’ high?
yes- they need to install fall protection around it.
Did they not need a fence along the retaining wall?
They do. but that part is not in our contract
Building a raised patio in Pittsburgh, PA (from MN though!) ... so I have a wall with a cap for the step tread. How far below the cap do I set my sand bed height? The caps get set first so the paver needs to match. I've never done this so I don't know how much the pavers will settle once fill the joints with sand and then compact at the end.
How do you keep weeds from growing up between the cracks?
spray them with a weed killer before they take over.
How does the thickness of the paver stone change anyhting about the project? sand / base thickness?
It doesn't change anything. The application will determine the thickness of the base. Pavers that see vehicular traffic should have a minimum of 8" of base. If it's anything more than a small driveway on perfect subgrade, I'm doing 10" or 12" with geotextiles for added strength. One thing to note, the sand is screened at 1" but will compact by 20-25%. Typically you want to install pavers 1/8” above "finished grade". This promotes water runoff and accounts for a bit of settling. So in the case of a typical 2 ⅜” paver, I will factor the paver and sand layers as a combined 3" when setting where I want the top of my pavers to be after compaction. 2⅜ + ¾ = 3⅛.
The thickness of the pavers goes into the calculations early to determine your initial cut depth as well. IE- How deep you excavate below proposed top of patio grade.
Good Evening Stan. Hope all is good. Coke a cola today, hby?
Good evening. nothing to drink at the moment. but a cup of coffee sounds tempting. hows your day going?
@@Dirtmonkey Day is going great, Thanks for asking.
Why didn’t they tamp the substrate before base?
They did on the other video.
dang, the guys did that pretty fast! how much red bull did they drink?
2 cans a day lol
@@Dirtmonkey lol, you spelled cases wrong.
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Great stuff !! The whole job had a serious amount of involvement..
The crew seems to click with one another great.. Hope your treating them good..
Im curious what kind of fencing you plan to use on the great southern wall?
I'm not sure what they are doing for fall protection yet. Thats part of the job we aren't involved with.
@@Dirtmonkey Hopefully you can get a few clips of the finished product.
Honest question here. Why all the sand spread on top of the pavers, and why tamp it in with the vibrator? please dont make fun of me for not knowing. Just trying to learn something. I reckon that is what questions are for. Bless you bro! as always i love your videos. Prefer them to have more of you explaining what the steps are and why you do them though. Then i dont have to look like an idiot posting stupid questions. LOL
Don't quote me but as a guess, I think it was to fill in the space in between the tiles. The vibrating pad is to get the tiles moving just enough to squeeze the sand particles in between the spaces of each tile.
The compacting does two things. First is it sets the pavers. They’ll compact about 1/4 inch or so, so if your setting pavers and want them level with a concrete pad or something, then you set them a touch high and after compacting they will be level.
It also helps settle the sand in between the pavers so they don’t shift side to side. They also look really nice when the sand is done, kind of like running caulking on trim or grout on tile. Just makes it flow nice and fills in the voids.
Honda Guy nailed it. We "bed" the pavers by tamping them nd it settles the sand all the way to bottom of the joint spaces. Thats why we sweep in multiple courses.
@@Dirtmonkey Thanx! that is actually what i kinda thought. God bless you Stan and Honda guy!
Do you by chance watch Sampson Boat Builder Stanley?
no- is he good?
There are 5 6x6 blocks in a row
That might be the soldier course(that what we call it)
Wow
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I can't find a plate compactor with a pad. Will I be ok not having one on it when I compact my pavers?
I ended up getting a piece of cow matting and attached it to it and it worked perfect
10:20 They are literally going to sit on their patio and stare at the treetops.
😃I never thought of that
So this is a paver parking lot 🤔 I thought it was least going to be a grass yard there 🤔
yep- grass will be going in.
Stan do you have any playlists with the music that is used in your videos? where can we get this music?
I buy my music from artlist. I pay $250 or so a year to access their music playlist
Hey Stan it's Devin with D M LANDSCAPE DESIGN LLC. I was wondering could I use asphalt millings as you use the 3/4 clear ?.. or just stick to what everyone uses which is granite dust here in GA
Im not sure about millings, but you can use asphalt for the base. It needs weep holes since the asphalt is basically impervious, and will sit on a layer of open graded aggregate. Fill the weep holes with a smaller aggregate, typically 3/8”, and place a piece of nonwoven filter fabric over the weep hole to prevent sand migration. I would avoid using what is typically referred to as "stone dust" for the base. It doesn't drain well and becomes water logged. This leads to heaving in the winter. Even in warmer climates it is not recommended. For commercial work it is not an approved material in any jurisdiction that I'm aware of, and is not approved for use as a base material by manufacturers and the ICPI.
Joe nailed it.
Where do you find all the music
Artlist- I buy it from them.
@@Dirtmonkey ok thank you
Railings on the retaining wall?
fall protection will be going in
That's a few thousands of dollars worths of patio
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All that dust and sand without masks? I'd be coughing up crap for a week.
Good catch- they should have had their masks on.
Hey! That isnt a 1/2 circle!?!..... Its a half round!...
I meant semi circular.
Dang pouring concrete is way easier!!
yep
did i miss the benny hill music???
That would make a good blooper real lol.
This will probably outlast 35w hahaha 😆 🤣 😂
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Plus seems
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Thanks Grant.
Seems like there was a lot of wasted steps, your base should have been more level from the start.
I'd suggest getting a rotating laser level and using it to set your grade before laying the class 5.
we do use that but it wasn't shown in the video. thats how we set up our base.