STOP Removing Old Roots From Your Garden! Do This Instead
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- Опубликовано: 29 май 2024
- In this video, I share why you should stop removing old roots from your garden. Removing roots from garden soil disrupts soil life and robs nutrients from your garden! A core principle of no till gardening, soil should be disturbed as little as possible to maximize fertility. When it comes time to remove old plants, do this instead.
Now that fall gardening season has begun, it's time to remove old summer garden vegetables. This video discusses the most practical ways to do so that impacts the soil as little as possible. These principles can be applied to both no till growers and gardeners who may not have enough space to follow no till garden principles. No matter what your situation, you can apply these methods to your vegetable garden.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
0:00 The Secret To Amazing Garden Soil
2:13 How To Remove Old Plants Safely
4:28 Roots After Months Of Decomposition
7:12 2 Cases Where Roots Should Be Removed
9:42 Adventures With Dale
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If you enjoyed this video, please “Like” and share to help increase its reach! Thanks for watching 😊TIMESTAMPS for convenience:
0:00 The Secret To Amazing Garden Soil
2:13 How To Remove Old Plants Safely
4:28 Roots After Months Of Decomposition
7:12 2 Cases Where Roots Should Be Removed
9:42 Adventures With Dale
One of the important reasons you can't do this in smaller garden spaces is that those roots that are left will get in the way of anything else you plant in that bed and interfere with 'production'. I watched a video by an 'Urban Homesteader' that had this problem. She was following the idea of leaving the 'Roots' in the ground for several years until a couple of her beds stop being productive. Realizing that old NON-FAST decomposing roots were the problem, she pulled them all out and of course had to 'purchase' soil to add back to her beds. She was just ADDING roots on top of roots and taking up the soil space in her beds. So if you have a small space or you 'Succession' plant, you may not be able to let the previous roots 'decompose' in your beds or containers.
I simply cut all the way down to the soil level and leave them indefinitely. Early spring I add a few inches of new soil right on top of last year's mulch and cover crops, then drop in transplants/seeds + add a layer of compost and woodchips for mulch
You definitely can. I grow all throughout the winter, so sometimes space can be an issue. If I am able to leave them, I will. If you can let them sit all winter, you'll be able to plant right next to them since there won't be much of any root mass left.
Great video, and great response. I was going to comment what about us with containers !?! I’ve been removing the soil completely, adding into a larger bin, mixing it etc.
I always feel bad disturbing everything tho. Space is also an issue of course.
A new gardener here……. this is my first winter and I’m confused; so, besides peppers, none of these are annuals, the point is for the quality of the dirt, not to salvage the plant ?!
I did all this research on fig trees, mangoes, pineapples…etc., and now I have no idea what to do them; do you move your plants indoors ? I don’t have a Bsmt., but I have a gardening room, do I keep them in there in heat ? And if so, what about germinating seeds right now, can I plant them since I’m bringing the plants in ? I heard that you can replant suckers off the tomatoes for next year, thanks ! ; )
@@blessisrael6455- if you have a wall with southern exposure you can put your container plants up against that wall and hang clear drop cloth over. Add old sheets and quilts for colder nights, and possibly lights under the covers.
@@mcap713 I added all my used potting mix to a big metal tub that I have, and I’ve added a little bit of compost, but I’m also growing a cover crop of beans in the potting mix. I literally took a bag of 15 bean soup, soaked them for an hour or so, threw them in the old potting mix and they’ve all germinated! Kinda crazy to think that any dried beans we buy for eating can be easily grown! I was astounded that the germination rate of this 15 bean soup had to be somewhere between 75-95% 😂. I’m just going to let them grow until a light frost (if we get one) kills them and then mix it all into the potting mix as a “fertilizer”. I felt like a genius for this one 😅
I even dig small holes in my Garden beds and burry my kitchen scraps . Helped my soil tremendously in just 1 year!
Even when I already do the tip of the day i stick around for the Adventures with Dale 😊
I'm glad you enjoy Dale's antics 🐕😆
I piled-on fall leaves, cardboard, & a few corner rocks to weigh it down last year. Not enough weight to cause compaction. Just enough to keep the board from blowing away. Sometimes i lift the cardboard & toss in kitchen scraps. I had worms GALORE. I’ll leave roots in place this year. I’m a newbie.
Thank you once again. Beginner gardener here and I was just thinking yesterday that it is time to pull out the dying cucumbers, squash, melons peas and beans. Perfect timing!
I cannot say I have ever tried this method. 🤔 Perhaps I will consider it
If you have the space, it's so easy. Pulling plants is hard work. It's a cakewalk to just cut them down and leave the roots to decompose, and it's better for your soil. Less work, more progress.
I decided I'm leaving all of my roots to rot in the ground over the winter after spectacular results last year. Prepping the beds was far easier, and I know that it added something when the cover crops started growing vigorously!
I like how you showed the example. Because by the title, I was concerned that the root ball would cause new plants or seedlings to not be able to spread their roots past it. But since the root ball will be removed, it works so much better. I have seen youtubers who left their root balls in and it caused future problems because they never removed them. This makes so much sense. Thank you!
Interestingly, if you leave a short piece of stalk showing you can plant the next crop in the undisturbed space thus leaving the roots in the ground for a longer period. I do this because my 12 month garden doesn't get a winter rest.
Thank you, this is what I have been doing for the last several years.
Excellent! Do you like the results?
100% agree. It also creates a perfect planting hole for spring transplants.
You really don't disappoint with your videos. I don't know whether I'm more impressed by your great camera shots, or the volume of information. Thank you.
Thank you! I appreciate it. I try to set up the camera so things are as visible as possible.
@@TheMillennialGardener I sure appreciate the channel. Just moved to South Carolina from Seattle Washington and have gotten some good information from you, very similar climate, pests, and sandy soil to you. I feel like I'm on another planet. Hope you have a great night.
Well said !! So true. 🙂
Thanks for that tip, I've had a few battles pulling dead corn bases out of the ground. Not this year, this year they'll die in peace👍
If you can let them sit all winter, that's the best thing for sure.
That's a habit that I'm trying to stop, no more pulling old plants. I just cut to the ground and cover them with plastic to "solarize" and hopefully kill some nematodes at the same time. Shame I can not kill some of those asian worms though 😢. Sweet boy Dale🐕💕
That's a good idea. If the roots decompose significantly enough, you don't need to remove them at all. You can just plant a new plant next to the old roots. As long as they're broken down significantly, they won't impede the new plant's growth.
I always learn from your videos. Although I have never learned about how inappropriately removing plants and roots from the soil can affect the soil life of my garden, the information in your video makes much sense. I do have a very small garden area, however, I don’t plant much in ground during fall and will now change the way I remove plants and roots at the end of summer growing season. Thanks for sharing.
Fungal webs are amazing. They interconnect like a giant organism. When you pull out roots, you make a big hole in them that has to heal over, almost like a tear in skin. By not removing the roots, you leave the web intact. Plus, you'll have the added benefit of doing a lot less work, not losing your garden soil and you'll return all those nutrients in the roots back to the soil. If you allow the roots to decompose enough, you can basically plant another plant right next to it and it won't impede the new plant's development.
I do this for my potted tomatoes. I'll cut out the plants when they start to die. pull all the green and mold harboring dead stuff out and make a mulch pile.
Then in the spring when it's time to plant I pull out the center, add some fertilizer and a scoop of fresh soil then plant the new plant in the hole.
Each of my plant pots has a colony of earthworms... some sort of wild mushroom, and creepy crawlers.
I was almost certain winecaps were growing in my Tomatillos last year but I wasn't going to eat em and find out lol
Do you have freezing winters? I have freezing winters and was going to dump my pots out next week and wash out the pots.
Zone 6 @@cathybestlercurtis coldest is usually negative single digits in the coldest winters. Wind chill can get to -20.
My Tomatoes are all in my greenhouse so I have another month of them putting out their last energy.
I also use cloth pots, which let air kill roots so they dont circle the pots, so come spring there will only be 6 inches of root.
(plus they're cheap enough that if you want a transplant you can cut them off with scissors and protect the roots from transplant shock)
Great information! Thank you MG!!😊👍👍
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
If you are growing host plants and flowers for pollinators, it is critical to leave those dead plants alone until late spring. There is no point in feeding the parents but then cutting off and destroying the host plant that allows the next generation to over winter. If absolutely necessary, lay the cut off plants in a sheltered place over the winter.
Thanks for this video & glad to see you smiling again.
Interesting, I didn't know this. Hi to Dale 🐕🐾💞
Mr. Dale sends his love!
Thanks as always 😊
Hi to Dale 🤗
You're welcome! Dale sends his love 🐕
Awesome thanks for the tip
Thank you! This was very helpful!
Good point!
I love this guy. Great advice
I appreciate that! Thank you!
You Are So Fabulous!!! Gonna Do This Tip. I Have Pulled The Whole Root Up And Have Noticed I Lost So Much Soil. Thank You For Your Videos. ❤
Thank you! I'm glad to hear the videos are helpful.
Great topic!
Nothing goes to waste. 😊
We try to save as much as is practical.
I have learned so much from your excellent videos. Thanks very much!
I have learned so much from your excellent videos. Thanks for sharing . Thanks very much!
Who knew? So informative thank you 😍
Sweet dale😊
He really is a sweetheart. He's so gentle, unless you're a bunny that finds its way into his yard 😅
This was super informative. Thanks for sharing and the comparison!
You're welcome! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
You provide outstanding evidence. I'm 50% convinced to go No Dig. I will continue watching + listening to your channel.
P.S. your dog is a sweetie pie.🥰 Boxers have such great personalities.
Dale's a mix of American Foxhound, Staffordshire and Pit Bull terriers. He's a rescue, so he has an interesting look about him due to the blend. No one's ever been able to guess him successfully outside of some sort of hound.
Definitely doing this. I noticed that my soil turns to quickly to desolate sand if I just rip things out. Then all the friggin ants move in. I plan to pile up deep mulch as much as possible for the winter so I can start with good soil next spring.
One of your best vids yet!
I appreciate it! Thanks for watching!
Very helpful!
Thank you!
Thanks MG for another informative gardening lesson. Great stuff. 🙏
You're welcome! I'm glad you enjoyed it.
@@TheMillennialGardener Im in Akron, Ohio Zone 6. If I miss the Fall planting of garlic could I grow a softneck variety May 20th through the summer?
Very interesting video! Last few winters I kept wondering about this.
It's so much easier. Less work, better results.
Very interesting! I always learn something g from you in every video!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
This was great, thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Have nematodes on tomatoes, peppers and okra. I pull those up and put on a brush pile. Everything else gets composted.
Thank you for this information!
You’re welcome!
Really helpful. Thank you
You're welcome!
I ❤❤ your channel and Dale! I love details 🙂Going somewhat 180° out here on roots. I have a SW USA/Latin American herb plant (evergreen woodsy limbs at the bottom and towards the top are the flowers and green stems) that I need to bring in to the house for the winter. I would like to propagate the plant with little green trimmings. What is a good organic root hormone (gel or powder) that I can purchase? This is a fussy plant which isn't easy receiving seeds from.
Thank you for this valuable information
Glad it was helpful!
I love nourishing my soul! It makes such delicious veggies.
Thanks for watching!
*soil🤣🤣
Thank you🙂👍.Very informative
You're welcome!
Very informative, thank you for sharing!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you I learn something from you
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Your tips is master piece thanks
I appreciate it! Thanks for watching!
Do the same for container plants as well?
Great video. I'm in the same area as you and I was going to pull my tomatoes up, but they started making fruit again. So, I've decided to leave them for now. When they are done, I guess I will be using this method.
As long as you don't have nematodes, you should be okay leaving the roots. However, if you're like me and get the root knot nematodes, you may want to pull them. For my tomatoes, what I do is I cut them down and let them sit for 2-3 weeks, then pull them. This helps them partially rot so they're easier to remove and do less damage upon removal, but I don't want them sitting all winter holding the nematodes as a host.
OK, I am a small backyard, container gardener. I have been forced to pull up plants and dispose of them.
If the plant suffers from a disease that killed it, I just throw them away. However, if a plant is at the end of its season and dies of natural causes or will not be blooming anymore, and I have to remove it, this is what I'm doing.
I chopped the roots up into tiny pieces as well as the leaves and the non woody stems and put them in my compost bin. That way, I can plant new crops for the new season. I am hoping to put the nutrients that would normally stay in the ground, into my compost. I hope I'm doing it right?
If the woody stems are thin enough I chopped those into tiny pieces and put them into my compost bins, too. If I need to do anything else please let me know.
Container gardening is a little more challenging. There isn't much of a micro-biome in a container. I've noticed decomposition happens at a much, much slower pace than my garden beds, which are full of worms and trillions more bacteria and fungi. All you can do is do the best that you can.
Amazingly enough, I have 2 different 10 gallon cloth containers that I found one red nightcrawler worm, alive and doing well in each. I found each worm while harvesting my sweet potatoes. Oh, and several rolly-poly type millpedes. How the heck? LOLOLOL
Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for this timely video. One question, does this apply to containers(plastic pots and grow bags)?
In my garden I have 2 raised beds and the rest are pots and grow bags. Is there a benefit to leaving the roots in the soil in them?
Thanks,
Christine
Haddon Twp, NJ 7a
With annual plants, this method makes sense; with tree roots, never! Multiple reasons for that, but the main one on my mind is the termite issue. Termites love decomposing wood in soil. I've learned the hard way to never leave tree stumps or roots, soil network be darned! It will recover.
What do you recommend for grub infestation if you are aware. I’m in Az, my amended soils attract them. Thanks
What are your thoughts on cover crops for winter in beds you plan on “resting”?
I wish I had seen this before I pulled up my cornstalks a few days ago! I would not have pulled my shoulder either😉 Thanks so much for the info, it really helps me a lot😊
You're welcome! It's a lot easier this way.
Dale sighting 😁 🐕.
Was going to pull out okra this weekend. Cut them instead now! Thx!
If Dale is outside, he's on pawtrol. Definitely cut the okra down. Ripping them up causes a lot of soil damage.
Thank you MG! Is this still useful for potted plants?
It's...less useful. Potted plants have a limited micro-biome. You won't find the diversity of fungi and bacteria in a container, let alone earthworms and other invertebrates that assist in the breakdown of organic matter. Things decompose at a fraction of the rate in containers. You can let the roots sit if you don't need your potted plants soon. It's not going to hurt the pots. However, even if I were to let the roots sit all winter long, they still won't break down all the way, so I eventually have to yank them and re-nutrify the containers. This is how I do it here: ruclips.net/video/_FmroOI-l4A/видео.htmlsi=CKiQlpHlLbOl6NRw
Thanks! This is the first year I am using all raised beds and the first time I didn’t pull the old plants. I just cut them off and left them.
It's a lot easier. It's hard work ripping up well-rooted plants. This makes it a simple twist-and-pull.
Can tilling annually be okay for some soil? I have some issues that research has told me tilling is helpful (not enough decomposing matter, huge pest issues)
Finally, a break in the heat here in Sylacauga Alabama. Temps are down into the lower 70s. I'm taking advantage of it today, and tomorrow. Today, I planted Elephant Garlic, and grocery store mystery garden in raised bed number five, and covered raised beds 1, 2, 4, and 5 with netting to protect my garden from deer. I also got raised beds 7, and 8 ready to sow seeds tomorrow. In raised bed number two, I sowed seeds for Hilton Cabbage. I up potted 7 comfrey sprouts that will be transplanted into the herb garden next spring, and brought my tomato seedlings outside, so they can start climatizing. Tomorrow, I'll sow seeds for Purple Top Turnips, Tokinashi Turnips, and Golden Detroit Beets. My peppers and Seascape Strawberries are still producing, and my Late Nagasaki Cabbage, Kohlrabi, Pak Choi. Komatsuna, and Yellow Heart Winter Choy are all doing well, except I think a few Tokinashi Turnip seeds may have gotten mixed into the Komatsuna seeds. No, matter, whatever comes up, will be eaten. I just harvested my first turnips the other day, and am looking forward to another harvest in about a week, so time to get planting more seeds. Other than doing a few late season transplants, and sowing a few sees, my fall garden is about finished. Soon, I'll have basil to clean up, a few growbags to replace, and I need to relocate some of my growbags to new locations for spring planting. Oh, before it gets cold, I need to set up my potting table inside my polytunnel greenhouse.
Hello from Opelika
Do you sell starter pieces of tuber plants and cuttings of your figs...
Great video I’m wondering why you didn’t cut the stalk even with the ground. ?
He said it was to leave a little handle to pull it out with..
Where do you buy your starter fig trees? All I am finding is cuttings and woe! I might as well just buy a tree considering the price they want! Thanks.
You live in area that has a heavy load of root knot nematodes. ( microscopic round worms.) Be careful and inspect your roots carefully or you can pretty much be destroying your beds. Please test your beds for RKN by getting the boxes from the local extension service. The tests are $3 each. I had been leaving roots in the ground too and now I am paying dearly.
Wow, great information, makes sense! I've always yanked my plants out at the end of the season so everything looks tidy. Will definitely clip them off this year instead. Any additional advice on the nematode issue? Have you ever considered doing a video on electroculture?
This method is a lot less work. I mean *a lot* less. And no more mess. My solution to nematodes is moving the tomatoes and eggplants to straw bales where they'll be safe. Other plants like leafy greens and brassicas aren't affected, and plants like peppers have smaller roots that stay in the compost layer and don't tap into the native soil, so they seem to do fine in my raised beds. If you have severe nematode issues, go with really deep raised beds with a really thick layer of organic matter underneath. Those 3ft deep hugelkultur beds probably do well to keep the RKN's out. I don't buy into electroculture. I ask myself, if it's that easy, why doesn't every commercial farm do it? When I see literally 0 professionals adopting something, I question it.
@@TheMillennialGardener thank you for the advice!
@TheMillennialGardener I had RKN get into a large grow bag that my tomato plant was growing in. It was also about 3 feet off the ground on a table. Now I can't swear I never had that bag sitting on a patio or somewhere lower at some point, but I'm still baffled at how they got in there. All I can think of is maybe it was it my compost?
If you are having problems with nematodes, try companion planting. Marigolds deter nematodes. They will also give your garden a little pop of color, and attract pollinators.
@jaytoney3007 yes, I actually used marigolds as a cover crop in one of my garden beds this year. Also, as companion plants. My latest tactic is using crab meal, crossing my fingers on seeing less issues this planting season.
Greetings MG! Well, we've made it to the end of another growing seaason. This info was fascinating but leaves me with 2 questions. Do you use the same method when growing in bags? We are still dealing with some grasshoppers and understand that they lay their eggs now in the dirt. Our plan was to empty all the bags in a big pile, stir them up really well, add compost (boy did those trash cans work well!) refill the bags and mulch heavily. Is there a better way? Should the plants just get cut off? We mostly have just nightshades and a couple of cucumber plants left. We have had NO diseaases on our nightshades thanks to our really dry southern CO climate.
Grow bags are challenging. They don't have the microbiome that real in-ground soil has. There are no worms and comparatively little fungi and bacteria, so decomposition in grow bags happens very slowly. Because the roots break down so slowly in grow bags, I have to eventually pull them and rehabilitate the container with fresh soil and compost. I made a video on how I do that every spring here: ruclips.net/video/_FmroOI-l4A/видео.htmlsi=J1bR_4lhLz4LcMN3
I think your plan is just fine. I don't even bother dumping them out, though. I just rip out the old plants, dig my hand in there and loosen everything up, add some potting mix as necessary, mix it back up and top with compost. I've been growing in the grow bags for 7 years and they're still great.
I, as a total shit gardener, can't understand why better gardeners wouldn't know to leave roots to decompose. Even I know that this breakdown will add nutrients into the soil without having to add so much compost. I mean, you're composting in place.
Also, I have to say I'm VERY impressed that you address the continuity of the soil micro biome.
There are many plant species all over the world that rely on a communication network that lives below ground and uses any number of different means of communicating from one plant to another. Disrupt that communication, and it could have very bad results for your garden.
As an extension, did you know that the film "The Happening" was based on this very communication between trees?
Fun fact:
Back in the early 70's, there was a huge die-off of Kudu antelope. Thousands. No one knew why. One researcher (and you can find some bare bones information on his study ... but I have so many saved links I can't find it ... sorry) went to find out. That year there was a devastating drought in Africa, so animals of all kinds restored to eating what they could find.
The Kudu found that they could reach leaves of the Acacia trees, but were eating so many of the leaves that it was causing damage to the Acacia trees.
The researcher looked at what the Kudu were eating, and then covered the trees with a covering that would trap gasses.
What the researchers learned was that, when the kudu were eating enough of the leaves to cause damage to the trees, the Acacia released Ethelene gas, that was a signal to other Acacia trees that they were under attack, which prompted other trees downwind to increase tannin production.
Having been triggered, the trees proceeded to produce more tannin, which is liver-toxic in high doses, so the Kudu were dying of liver failure because of an increase of tannin produced by one tree and then signaled to others to do the same. Trees communicated to launch a chemical attack that essentially worked.
That film, thus, is based on fact. Not that people will necessarily go crazy and off themselves or others, but there's the potential I suppose.
I found on another page that if you provide a link, you'll be blocked. So, if you look up Kudu dying in the 1970's, or "Van Hoven", you'll find the research.
A lot of us gardeners like a neat, tidy and orderly garden. Having those old, ugly plants in the garden is an eyesore, I think. But, it's the best thing to do. I think a lot of us also want to follow an old crop with a new one and we don't have the space to leave old roots in indefinitely, or we just botch the timing. Timing is always tough, and weather is so unpredictable. I always feel like I'm running behind.
I watched The Happening. I tried to forget about it. It was not great 😂 At least in my opinion.
That is fascinating. Thanks
What about hot peppers? Those are nightshades too right? I seem to hardly ever have any diseases or pest problems with my peppers. Should I pull them or let them sit and decompose the roots?
definitely ! ~:; 🌿🌱🦎🦎🦎🌲💠
What are you doing to prevent further nematode issues? I'd love to see some info on that if you find any success.. It's taking over our garden. My first thought here was I'm afraid to leave any roots in ground. Even plants that aren't supposed to be affected are getting infested. I'm taking time off growing nothing but marigolds, mustard, etc.. I've thrown out crab meal.. I've resorted to seven dust in specific beds to test.. it's awful. I'm wondering if my area is too contaminated to continue.
Look into Beneficial nematodes, and there is a specific one for root knot nematodes
Steinernema feltiae nematodes. (BENEFICIAL NEMATODES)
Several different species of beneficial nematodes were then applied to the soil of these plants. The number of knots (or galls) were counted after nine weeks, with the application of Steinernema feltiae nematodes reducing the number of knots that developed each time.
That is some great information but there is one burning question left unanswered. How was the corn??
I harvested the early corn a couple days too late, so it started to get starchy. The later corn, which was Peaches and Cream hybrid, I got the timing right on. It was very good. Best corn I've had in awhile.
dosnt removing all the dirt from the root ball back in the hole a decent alternative? usually i have a root mass that 2inch thick or more over the entire bed restricting nutrients and water from getting deeper into the soil?
The problem is that ripping up the roots tears a giant hole in the bacterial and fungal web in our soil. Fungal webs are interesting. They turn into a giant interconnected organism. When you tear a hole in it, it has to repair itself. Even if you shake all the soil back into the hole, you're still damaging the web. The idea is to allow the roots to break down as much as possible so if the day comes where you must pop the roots out, you cause the tiniest disturbance possible. If you can *not* pull the roots and let them decompose 100%, that's even better. Then you have no damage to the web and you allow all the nutrients to return to the soil.
Do you recommend covering your garden over the winter ? Or just leave it open ? Thank you
Always cover. I have a lot of videos on restoring and overwintering garden beds: ruclips.net/video/Vuw6nBrGdmQ/видео.htmlsi=nWcgH3bpb5sRLi0m
I grow all winter long, here, but this is especially important in winter if you don't grow and the garden is sitting not being used. The UV of the sun effectively bleaches the top layer of your garden soil. Either cover it with a tarp, a thick layer of mulch, or grow a cover crop on it. Protect the soil from the sun.
@TheMillennialGardener excellent information thank you
Unfortunately, it's not ideal for us with short growing seasons and limited space. I generally need to replant NOW if I want more than 1 crop per season, since I get ... maybe 4 months a year. I do leave plants sit in ground over winter, though (unless they are ill and may leave pathogens). I don't even clip them, I allow them to shed leaves and stuff, too.
If you have a short growing season, then you can definitely cut down your plants and let the roots sit during the winter. I assume your winters are probably too cold to grow, so you may as well let the roots decompose.
Would it be okay to leave the roots, and just plant around them the next time?
hmmm is that why they leave corn stubble in the field? green fertilizer? also i have a container garden. would i still rip up all the tomatoes?
I'm not sure, but it would make a lot of sense. Corn stalks are brutal to rip up when they're fresh and green. The roots are like copper wire. Leaving them to sit is going to remove 95% of the work when it comes time to turn the field for the next season.
If you are growing nightshade in grow bags. Do you have to worry about nematodes like in raised beds?
Maybe. If you set the grow bags directly on soil that's infected with nematodes, they can make their way into the pots. What some growers do is they buy concrete cinder blocks, then place the pots on top of the cinder blocks to get them off the ground. Elevating the pots so there is no ground contact helps.
Can anyone please explain what the thinking is for burning fields after harvest? I heard that was a good idea to return nutrients to the soil. Thanks
Burning does release any minerals that may be in the dry material back to the earth much faster. The question is- can the next crop take up those nutrients?
@@commonlaw5400 I thought you had to plan ahead and rotate crops to get that to happen. That’s the general gist, I think. Unless there’s a reason why you said that specifically because of burning? Are you implying that the nutrients will be lost in some way?Thanks
What would you do if there was a case of powdery mildew involved in the bed?
Doesn't that need a host to survive? Cut the plants, cover the beds in a tarp and let it sit in the sun to roast.
We need some fig action man…
What have you got ripening at the moment?
How’s your del sen Jaume gran, i258, cdd blanc and new BNR trees going???
How’s white Madeira #1 doing also??
Figs are pretty much done for the season. My DSJG is probably dead. It got hit by the ambrosia beetle. I cut it down 5 months ago and it never came back. I think it's gone forever. Most of my in-ground trees were behind big time this season. We had a cold spring and a cold start to Fall. It only got hot here in July and August. Our June was absurdly cool, so my Blanc's are only starting to ripen now, which isn't faring well now that we're going to have nights in the 40's the next couple nights.
Will roots left in containers break down and help fortify the mix?
Yes
In my experience, not so well. Containers lack a microbiome like in-ground garden beds do, and there are no worms and other macro life in there. As a result, decomposition is very slow. Roots break down in my garden beds many, many times faster than my containers. I will let the roots sit for a bit, but I eventually have to pull them. I restore the containers using this method: ruclips.net/video/_FmroOI-l4A/видео.htmlsi=gXCr5tw6P_g2ZU7Z
What about the holes from pulling weeds? Is it the same way?
Great question. The key is to stay on top of the weeds and pull them while they're still small. Pulling weeds is a necessary evil, because if they go to seed, you'll have even more. The best weapon against weeds is to mulch often and maintain that mulch layer. That will minimize the weeds and protect your soil.
If I do not have enough space but one bed, I would use pots and place it on the beds while decomposing beneath.
Only if the plant/tree you are removing does not through suckers (new shoots) from its roots when the main plant has been removed ;-) Then you may also need to place a tarp down.
I let my whole tomato plants die and decompose over winter, then removed dead branches in spring. My tomatoes came back all on their own from fallen seeds with minimal weeds!
So the way I’ve been doing it. Is I just hold the base of the rootball and basically pull the main stem while pushing down on the roots. This leaves 99% of the roots in place and removes the plant at the same time. I’m sure someone will tell me that this is a horrible idea but I’m still a newer gardener so trial and error ya know 😂
Question: What about rototilling it all together with the soil?
That's not something you'd ever want to do in a raised bed. That's only feasible with larger earth beds. It's common on traditional farms to sow a winter cover crop of nitrogen-fixing legumes, then till it under to add organic matter to the soil. I've never had a large earth plot, so I can't say what's better: no-till or tilling in nitrogen fixers. If you follow Lazy Dog Farm, he's always been a nitrogen-fixing cover crop tiller, but after a few years I think he swears his no-till plot is more fertile. It took awhile and didn't do well at first, but after years it caught up and in some ways surpasses. The downside: no-till can be quite expensive if you buy your own compost since it requires so much.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thank you very much.
@@jackijax505 you're welcome!
Just wondering why you left the eggplants on there. For seeds? I'm glad to know that me being lazy benefits the soil😅. Thanks!!
I get tired of them. I only eat them sparingly and they produce more than I want. I eventually forget about them.
My problem is I don’t have all those beds and all that room, so I have to replant quicker than a couple of months if I want things growing.
I address this problem toward the end of the video. All you can do is do the best you do. Let them decompose as long as you can in between plantings. Just do the best you can.
digging up root crops damages the soil--but is there any way to mitigate the damage?
That's what the video shows.
@TheMillennialGardener --I missed it then-- what did the video show to lessen the soil damage when digging up root crops?
Beneficial nematodes help get rid of root knot nematodes, and so does the crab and lobster mix.
The crab and lobster shell meal is a great product, but the amount I'd need for my entire garden would bankrupt me. That stuff is costly 😂
So pull the tomatoes and eggplants??
If you think your plants are infected, yes. What I do now is I cut my tomato plants and let them sit for 2-3 weeks, then pull them. I won't let them sit for months, but if I let them sit for 2-3 weeks, it makes them *a lot* easier to pull up. Ripping up fresh tomato plants is rough.
Thanks 😊
I'm just hit it with my mower at the lowest setting and leave it. I haven't tilled or dug in the garden except to plant transplants. Maybe a lil overkill but I'm just lazy I guess.
Cant i just pull it out and cut the roots and soil back into the soil so thejjy can finish decomposing into the soil...