I lost track of how many videos I've watched on nut slotting, and all the devices, kits, specialty tools etc. THIS 5 minute video was easily the best Ive seen, and got me back on track with my builds. Establishing a line on the nut at fret height - what a "duh" moment-genius! A million thanks Ken!
You make it look easy while other videos make it look pretty complicated. I'm going to try it and cross my fingers that I don't ruin a perfectly good bone nut. I bought a handmade neck that has a bone nut installed but rough cut and unslotted. Thanks for posting this. It's real helpful.
I've been doing this guitar repair stuff for a while now, and nut slotting has always flummoxed me. This is not just a brilliant solution, but even better, an elegant solution to this problem. Just did the best slotting job I've ever done following this procedure. I can't thank you enough for sharing this information! -Nate
As soon as he talked about the guitar "not going sharp when you play the first couple frets" I knew I'd found the right video. I have a Jay Turser that's just cool, sounds great, but the nut is high, but it goes sharp playing near the nut. I've adjusted the bridge correctly, but that nut is a problem! I hope I can fix it.
Your line could be a tiny bit more precise at 1:55 if you draw the line without rotating the pencil. You want to keep the pencil parallel to how the strings would lay to get the most accurate line of fret radius. It may not matter much I know since you'll be likely making iterative adjustments, but I'm compelled by OCD exactness lol
It worked for me. I finished fixing my guitar with that just one word of knowledge that you said in the beginning, as a consequence. That where I was it was giving me sharp notes,.. and I left my guitar for few days.. Now I played after a long time. Thanks Sir. I cut and made it from a wooden block. Because readymade didn't work. So I made one. Thanks for the video. You saved my guitar. !!! 🎸
I think if you make the pencil correctly , draw the line correctly, file just to the line carefully . It will work like a charm. someone mentioned placing a piece of paper on the frets when you make the line. That couldn't hurt, might give you a buffer zone.
Great idea with the pencil. I came up with an possible alternative: Take a pencil and rub the graphite onto the edge of a business card. Then use that card to mark the nut. Wala. ...well I let you know how it turns out. Thanks for the tips!
Hot damn, that is one slick little trick with sanding the carpenter's pencil. I was already stoked by your method of setting the bridge in your last video. This just keeps getting better.
Solid down to earth.. .. the relationship between the height of the bottom of the string slot to the plane of the fret field is something I have always seen in my head, but I do not think I have ever been able to get someone to understand when I explained it. Yes, a lot of people would tell me understood, but I always felt they would tell me they understood because they didn't want to look stupid. .. The way you explained it and visually backed it up is.... well, perfect... I will use your video the next time I try to explain this. It's true that simple is the best. Just the needed info and nothing more. well done
I'm a carpenter and use those pencils everyday. I think I can spare one for this! Brilliant and simple, thanks! BTW, I just realized my '64 SG junior has a cracked original nylon nut so I ordered a new blank. I already have the files and now with this trick, the confidence!! 😎
I like the concept of making the nut slots align with the fret heights. Most guitars seem to arrive with the nut slots way too high, causing poor intonation.
Now I know why my guitar tune was suddenly changed when I placed a new nut.. wow thanks for those words of wisdom 👏👏 where you said in the begnning " so it will not sound sharp." Thank you!
This line is actually the fret height. The best way to determine nut height is with the strings on (known gauge) and slightly tuned to pitch. Look at the string relief momentarily in real time while cutting the slot.
Several years ago, when I bought a medium priced Martin, I noticed that not only was it going sharp on some first position chords, especially fretted near the nut, but it was killing my fingers. I had it worked on by a technician at the store where I purchased it and the main thing he did was cut the nut slots much deeper. What I don’t understand is how a company like Martin could let such an elementary thing happen. That is an easily measured and adjusted thing. And NOBODY wants strings that high off the first fret.
This is a great idea. However, when marking the line, the pencil should be slid across the frets, remaining parallel with the neck. Pivoting the pencil won't give you the exact top of the frets.
Excellent vid! Thank you! Great tip. I'm a novice so I'm gonna use this method on some beginner-type guitars that have needed new string nuts for a long time.
Assuming the pencil line on the nut is the same height as the first fret, would filing to the the line be going too far? Wouldn't that put the string too close to the fret?
You're a genius. Also, do you ever use the graphite from those pencils to 'lube' the nut grooves?? I've seen some guys use it and I was wondering if it works??
Been a month, but just in case: yes, it works fine. Save your money on any 'snake oils' you might see :-) BTW, Graphtech/TUSQ nuts are self-lubricating by nature - no need for nuthin'.
Actual useful knowledge gained. If only all guitar repair videos were so. Thanks. My first couple of frets are sharp on an Epiphone lp standard. Everything else is perfect and upgraded. Just need some nut files now. And maybe an extra bone nut in case I screw it up at first.
I was a guitar tech for buck ownes 'roy Clark ' merle haggard ' don rich' buddy Elmo's and a few other of those cats back years ago ' it used a butter knife with the handle cut off ' gave me the right slot height. I'm curious ' I'm gonna have to check out that Cole Clark fellow ' I know we have some distant cousins I've never met and never heard Roy mention his name before. Cole Clark I will see if he's on my phone.
ok and on my acoustic maton, the height at 12.fret is 1,6 and 1,2 mm and I can hear buzzing on the B string at first 3 frets once its hit harder... what to do ? shim the nut or polish the frets ?
Hello, should you check to see if your neck is straight? that there is no neck relief before you mark the nut? Or it really does not matter.......thanks
Question. You mentioned slotting at a backwards angle. 1) Does this mean going back towards the headstock? 2) Since the slot will be at an angle, which side of the nut should have the string at that marked line: towards the neck or towards the headstock? Or is it the center? Thanks
The string should rest on the point at the edge facing the fretboard. It shouldn't touch the nut anywhere else. That is why you file the fall-off towards the tuners.
Figured that out for the fist nut I made. No brainer. You can flatten a regilar pencil athough I purchased a carpenter pencil. String spacing for me is hard. If you have the old nut mark with it also.
I had a minor crisis. My nut cracked in half on Saturday. I had a big performance the next morning at church. Nobody had a guitar I could borrow. I bought a slotted nut. It was way to short. The first fret was jammed against all strings. I had to raise it 1/8". I was brain storming. I needed something that I could make small adjustments with and be very flexible. I was using a notebook to write the chords for a new song I learned. I thought "Paper". I tore a page from my notebook. Cut about 16 pieces the length and width of my new nut. The thick strings we're stronger than thin and it was lopsided and then I added four extra sheets to the thin side. Wedged the nut into the slot over the paper. It worked. Good for a short term fix. I will need a blank nut next time. Motto; don't choke when you are in a bind.
Reading through the comments and seeing all the people commenting on how if you do this, your strings will sit right on the first fret or buzz, is fascinating. So many people seem to have no understanding of how the nut actually works and what it (mechanically) represents on a guitar. To put it simply: it is essentially a "zero" fret. As such, the nut slots can and should be exactly the same height as the rest of the frets. Just not deeper than that - that's when you'd get buzz on the first fret, just like you'd get buzz on the next fret when a specific fret up the fretboard is lower than the rest. Some guitars even have an actual fret where the nut would be, and the piece of plastic that looks like a nut next to it is actually just to guide the strings, not to place them at specific height. So no, unless your guitar has some serious issue, cutting the nut slots to the exact height of the frets will not cause any issues. Just make extra sure to not go any deeper than that.
Remember, the string is very slightly higher over the first fret because it angles up towards the saddle, which should be a few millimeters higher than the first fret.
@@robinleebraun7739 I don't understand what you're trying to say. The first fret is where an open string is closest to the top of the fret (not that it matters much when your neck is straight and frets are level), so what do you mean by "is very slightly higher over the first fret"?
Thx for the video. I’m new at this so here’s the newbie question. The nut I have is slanted on top with the slots cut for the strings. Which way should the slant face? Should the slope be going up from the neck or.. should I say should the higher part of the slant face the neck or head. Hope I’m making sense
Thanks for your time and effort on this video. I have a Reville Tele style guitar with rosewood fretboard. I really love this guitar and prefer to play it instead of my MIM Strat. I decided to install a Graph Tech XL nut. It was a little wide so I sanded then fit and sanded, etc. During this the rosewood forward broke out in several small pieces and cannot be glued back to repair. I sanded it down even with the original slot and it doesn't look bad. Even though glued in place the nut will not sit properly. I then decided to install a Mighty Mite roller nut but I need 3/16" more space which means I would have to take some rosewood out toward the 1st fret. I will not do that for fear of ruining my guitar. Now I don't know what to do? Do you have any suggestions? I do have pictures but don't know how to load them here.
@@BoudreauGuitars ahh good to know. I just started a new nut and wanted to make sure I get it right. I like having the strings as low as possible without buz
I'm going to start shaping my guitar's nut tomorrow. Its an Epiphone Less Paul custom with 3 pickups. What do you think is the perfect height for each string at the 1st fret? I like when the strings are low going up the neck. I don't care for high strings where you got to press down hard for chords played up on the neck. If you could help me with those numbers, i'd appreciate it big time.
@@BoudreauGuitars I am just asking because I want to know. Not to be a contrarian, but why would the bridge be higher ? Wouldn't I want the string to be as straight as possible to the bridge saddle? Keeping the string height as equal as possible to the saddle? I do like the method. And I'm going to try it, but I'd like to have my action as low as I can manage it. It seems like if there were a shim at .02 under the pencil and the tip was very sharp then that would be where the action would optimally sit. Or perhaps I am not seeing the proper reasoning.
Tite bond original is a good luthier glue.. with the nut do t overdo it because it can make a mess and because you may need to remove it, replace it, or do a repair that requires removing the nut ... so a real light dab is good. A d you can literally pop it out easily... most nuts are set in a pocket between the fretboard and the headstock face plate... When gluing it keep a warm damp rag or some q-tips handy to wipe the excess off. Titebond is water soluble..
I bought a axemasters brass nut for my bc rich kkv and it's to tall the slots and length are good I'm just sanding the bottom flat side down till I get the height that I want I'm hoping I'm doing it right 😮😮
Fail. When drawing the line, you need to keep the pencil parallel to the centreline of the neck. The line you drew is too high on the bass side because you didnt keep parallel
I didn't have a nut file so I dug out a couple of holes with a scissor... had to saw with the sharp end but I might've gone too far or maybe my neck is bowed because the action is kind of high. It always was, ever since I got it from the shops. Not sure how to do a proper set up & I'm too embarrassed to have a luthier inspect my guitar. :(
I knew the trick, and that's a really good one. I personally use the IKEA pencils... free, and easy to sand dow (yeah, you could argue that it's a bit short to sat on many frets at a time, it only sits on 2... I may change my habits).
@@Brent-Nelson68 Actually if you think about it , no different than fretting notes up the fretboard. frets are finished even. they are somewhat touchy though.
@@yrulooknatmeexcept, wouldn’t neck relief add compensation? There’s no relief between the nut and first fret. I’m thinking the spacer would help immensely.
quick question, the profile of the slot, would you say that its square? all 90*s or would there be a slight taper? I haven't been able to find that out yet. Thanks
I agree 100% with your method. I'm surprised there are so many people out there who disagree. Look at any factory or custom produced guitar's nut and you'll see a nut whose slots are not deep enough, giving unnecessarily high action that can't be fixed by other adjustments. If you ask most guitar repair technicians, they will shy away from slotting to the fret height, and say it will make the guitar buzz. But that's only true if there is a weakness elsewhere in the setup.
They won't do it cause they don't want people complaining that their strings are buzzing. So they let people play with high action so it's not their fault from the factory.
PROBLEM: the problem is that i tried using an eraser (my kid's) on the nut which was really dirty. cleaned it right up (gibson les paul standard) i didn't think there would be any harm. turns out now on the high e string when i play it open i hear buzzing. what should i do i'm freaking out!?!?
You can use the 'super glue and baking soda (powder)' trick...fill the slot at the front (where it meets the fretboard) with the powder and then either add some super glue with a cocktail stick to create a solid fill in there...Then recut the slot...Check out the trick on youtube...there's folks on here showing you how to do it with visuals...
Cool idea. But bringing the bottom of the slots down to the line would cause the strings to sit on the first fret, wouldn’t it?Or am I missing something here?Seems like cutting down to .020 above the line would net the desired height, if .020 is your goal. But I’m not a luthier, just someone applying logic. Thx!
Nah if ya go to the bottom of the line or through the line it may be getting a bit tight the bottom of the line is level with the fretts then you have you bridge which is slightly higher than the fretboard to so the strings should be clear of the fretts even if you went right to the bottom of the line ... Providing kneck is straight and nothing wired is going on
Drastic Measures no U didn't miss a damn thing. great way to ruin a nut. best thing to do is sit the old nut agains the new one and make some general markings for each string
So, since I'm filing at a back angle will the depth of the slot on the headstock side of the nut be below the maximum I determined with the line that I drew (if i cut right up to the line on the fretboard side of the nut)?
You likely know the answer by now, but yes, of course. The highest point of the nut slot is the one that matters, because that's where the string "starts" (where the "zero" fret the nut stands in for would be), and as such the highest point of the nut slot should be right on the fretboard edge of the nut.
I replaced the nut with a Tusq pre slotted and the GBE slots were cut too deep!I contacted the vendor and they are sending a replacement. The strangest part was that the Low E A and D slots were just fine!Must be bad quality control.
philo426 happened to me too apparently guitars made after a specific year get a slightly different model nut yet I didnt see this info anywhere when I bought it
Every workshop guitar repair/tinkerer owes you a debt of gratitude. One of the peskiest guitar problems solved simply and easily. Brilliant. Thanks!
I lost track of how many videos I've watched on nut slotting, and all the devices, kits, specialty tools etc. THIS 5 minute video was easily the best Ive seen, and got me back on track with my builds. Establishing a line on the nut at fret height - what a "duh" moment-genius! A million thanks Ken!
You make it look easy while other videos make it look pretty complicated. I'm going to try it and cross my fingers that I don't ruin a perfectly good bone nut. I bought a handmade neck that has a bone nut installed but rough cut and unslotted. Thanks for posting this. It's real helpful.
Genius tip!
The cool thing about this method is that it also shows the radius of each individual guitar. Thank you 😊
I've been doing this guitar repair stuff for a while now, and nut slotting has always flummoxed me. This is not just a brilliant solution, but even better, an elegant solution to this problem. Just did the best slotting job I've ever done following this procedure. I can't thank you enough for sharing this information! -Nate
As soon as he talked about the guitar "not going sharp when you play the first couple frets" I knew I'd found the right video. I have a Jay Turser that's just cool, sounds great, but the nut is high, but it goes sharp playing near the nut. I've adjusted the bridge correctly, but that nut is a problem! I hope I can fix it.
Did you fix it???
The slot where my nut god is crooked need to retake it off and clean it
Your line could be a tiny bit more precise at 1:55 if you draw the line without rotating the pencil. You want to keep the pencil parallel to how the strings would lay to get the most accurate line of fret radius. It may not matter much I know since you'll be likely making iterative adjustments, but I'm compelled by OCD exactness lol
clvinning , you are correct, I did rush it a little
It worked for me. I finished fixing my guitar with that just one word of knowledge that you said in the beginning, as a consequence.
That where I was it was giving me sharp notes,.. and I left my guitar for few days.. Now I played after a long time. Thanks Sir.
I cut and made it from a wooden block. Because readymade didn't work. So I made one. Thanks for the video. You saved my guitar.
!!! 🎸
Very educational!! Great video!!I’ve learned something new after playing guitar for 57 years.
I think if you make the pencil correctly , draw the line correctly, file just to the line carefully . It will work like a charm. someone mentioned placing a piece of paper on the frets when you make the line. That couldn't hurt, might give you a buffer zone.
Great idea with the pencil. I came up with an possible alternative:
Take a pencil and rub the graphite onto the edge of a business card. Then use that card to mark the nut. Wala.
...well I let you know how it turns out.
Thanks for the tips!
Was trying to figure it out myself also... no belt sander here. Thankyou
Holy smokes. Thanks for the tip. Don't have sander.
Or credit card
Hot damn, that is one slick little trick with sanding the carpenter's pencil. I was already stoked by your method of setting the bridge in your last video. This just keeps getting better.
Solid down to earth.. .. the relationship between the height of the bottom of the string slot to the plane of the fret field is something I have always seen in my head, but I do not think I have ever been able to get someone to understand when I explained it. Yes, a lot of people would tell me understood, but I always felt they would tell me they understood because they didn't want to look stupid. .. The way you explained it and visually backed it up is.... well, perfect... I will use your video the next time I try to explain this. It's true that simple is the best. Just the needed info and nothing more.
well done
I'm a carpenter and use those pencils everyday. I think I can spare one for this!
Brilliant and simple, thanks!
BTW, I just realized my '64 SG junior has a cracked original nylon nut so I ordered a new blank. I already have the files and now with this trick, the confidence!! 😎
I like the concept of making the nut slots align with the fret heights. Most guitars seem to arrive with the nut slots way too high, causing poor intonation.
It looks they filed the slot too much on my B and High E there is fret buzz on the first 3 frets. all the other strings are good.
Krikeys! This is the video I've been looking for. Gone through a bunch of nuts while trying to learn. This seems simple enough. Thanks!
Simple, direct, concise explanation thumbs up here.
Now I know why my guitar tune was suddenly changed when I placed a new nut.. wow thanks for those words of wisdom 👏👏 where you said in the begnning " so it will not sound sharp." Thank you!
This line is actually the fret height. The best way to determine nut height is with the strings on (known gauge) and slightly tuned to pitch. Look at the string relief momentarily in real time while cutting the slot.
I was about to start doing mine but thought I would watch a couple more videos. Great tip! Thanks
anyone home my pleasure! Happy to help,
Finally someone with a clear and easy answer! I don’t know why it was so hard to find this video. Should be a top hit. Thank you.
Several years ago, when I bought a medium priced Martin, I noticed that not only was it going sharp on some first position chords, especially fretted near the nut, but it was killing my fingers. I had it worked on by a technician at the store where I purchased it and the main thing he did was cut the nut slots much deeper. What I don’t understand is how a company like Martin could let such an elementary thing happen. That is an easily measured and adjusted thing. And NOBODY wants strings that high off the first fret.
Mr. Boudreau - great video, so simple but so effective and useful. Thank You!
This is a great idea. However, when marking the line, the pencil should be slid across the frets, remaining parallel with the neck. Pivoting the pencil won't give you the exact top of the frets.
Excellent vid! Thank you! Great tip. I'm a novice so I'm gonna use this method on some beginner-type guitars that have needed new string nuts for a long time.
I love this, thank you so much for sharing.
This is so stupid simple, and nothing brings quite the joy as something done stupid simple and well :)
That pencil trick is awesome! Thank you!
Thanks for that great trick with the pencil straight to the information and demo I was looking for .
Simple and yet brilliant, why didn't I think of that? Thank you very much!!!
Assuming the pencil line on the nut is the same height as the first fret, would filing to the the line be going too far? Wouldn't that put the string too close to the fret?
I was thinking the same . Isent it to low ?
You're a genius. Also, do you ever use the graphite from those pencils to 'lube' the nut grooves?? I've seen some guys use it and I was wondering if it works??
Been a month, but just in case: yes, it works fine. Save your money on any 'snake oils' you might see :-)
BTW, Graphtech/TUSQ nuts are self-lubricating by nature - no need for nuthin'.
That DID help me out. Thanks dude.
Building my first guitar. Excellent idea with the pencil. I’m going to do that.
I got the neck flat. Frets flat and crowned. This is my neck step.
Actual useful knowledge gained. If only all guitar repair videos were so. Thanks. My first couple of frets are sharp on an Epiphone lp standard. Everything else is perfect and upgraded. Just need some nut files now. And maybe an extra bone nut in case I screw it up at first.
We used to use a metal ruler as a height guide when cutting nut slots when I was a guitar tech for Cole Clark guitars. That's how they did it.
I was a guitar tech for buck ownes 'roy Clark ' merle haggard ' don rich' buddy Elmo's and a few other of those cats back years ago ' it used a butter knife with the handle cut off ' gave me the right slot height. I'm curious ' I'm gonna have to check out that Cole Clark fellow ' I know we have some distant cousins I've never met and never heard Roy mention his name before.
Cole Clark I will see if he's on my phone.
Your a very smart man. Thanks for the knowledge. I intend to use it!
Awesome videos. You should have way more likes and no thumbs down.
Great tip! Thank you very much! Would this work the same for a bass guitar? Or, an acoustic guitar, with heavier strings?
Actually just found this video & its helped me out alot Ken !! Thank you again bud !! Hope your well !! :)
Great tip .. but what kind of glue is using to instal the nut ?
Brilliant! Just the advice😀 I was looking for
ok and on my acoustic maton, the height at 12.fret is 1,6 and 1,2 mm and I can hear buzzing on the B string at first 3 frets once its hit harder... what to do ? shim the nut or polish the frets ?
You bet that helped! I was just about to start filing my nut and I caught your video just in time. Thank you for the info, much appreciated!
happy to help!
Hello, should you check to see if your neck is straight? that there is no neck relief before you mark the nut? Or it really does not matter.......thanks
WOW!! absolutely next level thinking
Question. You mentioned slotting at a backwards angle. 1) Does this mean going back towards the headstock? 2) Since the slot will be at an angle, which side of the nut should have the string at that marked line: towards the neck or towards the headstock? Or is it the center? Thanks
James Bradner file the slots at the same angle as the headstock
The string should rest on the point at the edge facing the fretboard. It shouldn't touch the nut anywhere else. That is why you file the fall-off towards the tuners.
Figured that out for the fist nut I made. No brainer. You can flatten a regilar pencil athough I purchased a carpenter pencil. String spacing for me is hard. If you have the old nut mark with it also.
I had a minor crisis. My nut cracked in half on Saturday. I had a big performance the next morning at church. Nobody had a guitar I could borrow. I bought a slotted nut. It was way to short. The first fret was jammed against all strings. I had to raise it 1/8". I was brain storming. I needed something that I could make small adjustments with and be very flexible. I was using a notebook to write the chords for a new song I learned. I thought "Paper". I tore a page from my notebook. Cut about 16 pieces the length and width of my new nut. The thick strings we're stronger than thin and it was lopsided and then I added four extra sheets to the thin side. Wedged the nut into the slot over the paper. It worked. Good for a short term fix. I will need a blank nut next time. Motto; don't choke when you are in a bind.
Thanks for that advice,great little tip.I will be using it.cheers
Reading through the comments and seeing all the people commenting on how if you do this, your strings will sit right on the first fret or buzz, is fascinating. So many people seem to have no understanding of how the nut actually works and what it (mechanically) represents on a guitar. To put it simply: it is essentially a "zero" fret. As such, the nut slots can and should be exactly the same height as the rest of the frets. Just not deeper than that - that's when you'd get buzz on the first fret, just like you'd get buzz on the next fret when a specific fret up the fretboard is lower than the rest. Some guitars even have an actual fret where the nut would be, and the piece of plastic that looks like a nut next to it is actually just to guide the strings, not to place them at specific height. So no, unless your guitar has some serious issue, cutting the nut slots to the exact height of the frets will not cause any issues. Just make extra sure to not go any deeper than that.
Remember, the string is very slightly higher over the first fret because it angles up towards the saddle, which should be a few millimeters higher than the first fret.
@@robinleebraun7739 I don't understand what you're trying to say. The first fret is where an open string is closest to the top of the fret (not that it matters much when your neck is straight and frets are level), so what do you mean by "is very slightly higher over the first fret"?
Thx for the video. I’m new at this so here’s the newbie question. The nut I have is slanted on top with the slots cut for the strings. Which way should the slant face? Should the slope be going up from the neck or.. should I say should the higher part of the slant face the neck or head. Hope I’m making sense
The neck
Brilliant, sweet and simple!
Thanks for your time and effort on this video. I have a Reville Tele style guitar with rosewood fretboard. I really love this guitar and prefer to play it instead of my MIM Strat. I decided to install a Graph Tech XL nut. It was a little wide so I sanded then fit and sanded, etc. During this the rosewood forward broke out in several small pieces and cannot be glued back to repair. I sanded it down even with the original slot and it doesn't look bad. Even though glued in place the nut will not sit properly. I then decided to install a Mighty Mite roller nut but I need 3/16" more space which means I would have to take some rosewood out toward the 1st fret. I will not do that for fear of ruining my guitar. Now I don't know what to do? Do you have any suggestions? I do have pictures but don't know how to load them here.
Robert Watkins friend me on Facebook, we’ll talk
Wouldn't doing it like that put the strings RIGHT on the fret? I kinda want my E string at around .030 "factory specs" above the 1st fret.
Matt's Horsemanship , no it wouldn’t because the bridge is set higher . 0.030” is quite high
@@BoudreauGuitars ahh good to know. I just started a new nut and wanted to make sure I get it right. I like having the strings as low as possible without buz
I'm going to start shaping my guitar's nut tomorrow. Its an Epiphone Less Paul custom with 3 pickups. What do you think is the perfect height for each string at the 1st fret? I like when the strings are low going up the neck. I don't care for high strings where you got to press down hard for chords played up on the neck. If you could help me with those numbers, i'd appreciate it big time.
@@BoudreauGuitars I am just asking because I want to know. Not to be a contrarian, but why would the bridge be higher ? Wouldn't I want the string to be as straight as possible to the bridge saddle? Keeping the string height as equal as possible to the saddle? I do like the method. And I'm going to try it, but I'd like to have my action as low as I can manage it. It seems like if there were a shim at .02 under the pencil and the tip was very sharp then that would be where the action would optimally sit. Or perhaps I am not seeing the proper reasoning.
This made changing the nut seem like a feasable thing for a newbie to do.
Likewise.
It seems to me that the line is at the same level as the frets.
Correct?
What an absolutely excellent tip!
What about bass nuts? Those strings tend to vibrate a bit wider..?
Clearance between string and first fret is similar on bass. About 20-22 thou.
Brilliant!
Is it safe to assume that you reset the neck relief to zero, perfectly straight neck, before you did the marking? Or is that unnecessary?
Brilliantly simple. Thanks.
Genius! Thanks!
Hey Ken - Can I assume the same principle applies to bass guitars?
Richie Primo absolutely
Thank you, Sir!
Brilliantly simple your a gentleman
you are a star thank you this is tomorrows job
what kind of file do i use?
Thank you for this! Definitely going to fix my guitar soon
Tite bond original is a good luthier glue.. with the nut do t overdo it because it can make a mess and because you may need to remove it, replace it, or do a repair that requires removing the nut ... so a real light dab is good. A d you can literally pop it out easily... most nuts are set in a pocket between the fretboard and the headstock face plate...
When gluing it keep a warm damp rag or some q-tips handy to wipe the excess off. Titebond is water soluble..
I bought a axemasters brass nut for my bc rich kkv and it's to tall the slots and length are good I'm just sanding the bottom flat side down till I get the height that I want I'm hoping I'm doing it right 😮😮
Fail.
When drawing the line, you need to keep the pencil parallel to the centreline of the neck.
The line you drew is too high on the bass side because you didnt keep parallel
I didn't have a nut file so I dug out a couple of holes with a scissor... had to saw with the sharp end but I might've gone too far or maybe my neck is bowed because the action is kind of high. It always was, ever since I got it from the shops. Not sure how to do a proper set up & I'm too embarrassed to have a luthier inspect my guitar. :(
Very clever. Thank you 👍👍👍👍
Thanks, really nice method. Now I just need to work out what to use for a Black Tusq XL Nut :-/
I wish I would have seen this 5 nuts ago. Ive screwed up so many of em. Thanks maybe Ill get it right next time
I knew the trick, and that's a really good one. I personally use the IKEA pencils... free, and easy to sand dow (yeah, you could argue that it's a bit short to sat on many frets at a time, it only sits on 2... I may change my habits).
Excellent tip
Put a 20 thou feeler gauge under your pencil THEN draw the line and file to it to avoid filing too low.
John Jones that will work also
I was thinking that if you filed the slots down to to that line your strings would be right on top of the frets
@@Brent-Nelson68 Actually if you think about it , no different than fretting notes up the fretboard. frets are finished even. they are somewhat touchy though.
@@yrulooknatmeexcept, wouldn’t neck relief add compensation? There’s no relief between the nut and first fret. I’m thinking the spacer would help immensely.
@@pauladouglass9456 I say get close to the line and sneak up on it. It’s easy to file more… a pain if you go to far
Great tips Ken.
this was awesome. Very helpful!
quick question, the profile of the slot, would you say that its square? all 90*s or would there be a slight taper? I haven't been able to find that out yet. Thanks
#BeWorship... The fret slot should follow the angle towards the tuning peg for respective string and match the angle of the peg head.
Why is the pencil line not symmetric? I guess I assumed that the neck radius, and therefore the fret wires, were symmetric.
baumfr Bass string needs more space to vibrate freely.
It’s likely because the slot for the nut is not centred at the radius of this the neck.
Wow, that's brilliant!
I agree 100% with your method. I'm surprised there are so many people out there who disagree. Look at any factory or custom produced guitar's nut and you'll see a nut whose slots are not deep enough, giving unnecessarily high action that can't be fixed by other adjustments. If you ask most guitar repair technicians, they will shy away from slotting to the fret height, and say it will make the guitar buzz. But that's only true if there is a weakness elsewhere in the setup.
They won't do it cause they don't want people complaining that their strings are buzzing. So they let people play with high action so it's not their fault from the factory.
Jack Rory Staunton It's not rocket science. U put a business cards thickness under the string to make sure its not too low.
Jack Rory Staunton or just make another line a mm above the 1st line to be safe from dropping the slotts too low
Daniel Hartle you could also put a piece of construction paper or something of equivalent thickness over the frets and redraw the line
Great tip, thank you!
Thanks! I needed that
Neither my Jackson or Gibson have slots that low but my two Takamine's do.. It seems like it would be too low
Your neck angle is what would making those slots in the nut to low.
Very helpful , thanks !
What a great Idea.
Thank you!!!
Good Video Bud!
PROBLEM: the problem is that i tried using an eraser (my kid's) on the nut which was really dirty. cleaned it right up (gibson les paul standard) i didn't think there would be any harm. turns out now on the high e string when i play it open i hear buzzing. what should i do i'm freaking out!?!?
You can use the 'super glue and baking soda (powder)' trick...fill the slot at the front (where it meets the fretboard) with the powder and then either add some super glue with a cocktail stick to create a solid fill in there...Then recut the slot...Check out the trick on youtube...there's folks on here showing you how to do it with visuals...
Cool idea/tip!
Great tip...thanks for sharing this...
I've seen your builds on MLP forum. They're nice!
Gee Mac72 thanks, brother !
Very use full thanks for sharing sir.
I need to clean my slot where it go’s because I just put it on like that gbe strings are lower then the ead
Cool idea. But bringing the bottom of the slots down to the line would cause the strings to sit on the first fret, wouldn’t it?Or am I missing something here?Seems like cutting down to .020 above the line would net the desired height, if .020 is your goal.
But I’m not a luthier, just someone applying logic.
Thx!
Nah if ya go to the bottom of the line or through the line it may be getting a bit tight the bottom of the line is level with the fretts then you have you bridge which is slightly higher than the fretboard to so the strings should be clear of the fretts even if you went right to the bottom of the line ... Providing kneck is straight and nothing wired is going on
nicholas merwarth I’m going to be making a bone nut for a strat neck that is arriving this week.
Guess I’ll see first hand how well it works.
On some older guitars the nut is actually a fret..and that's the height you are creating here...Same height as if it were a fret...Its a great tip
Drastic Measures no U didn't miss a damn thing. great way to ruin a nut. best thing to do is sit the old nut agains the new one and make some general markings for each string
Drastic Measures , You are correct, take the strings down to the line and they will lay on the first fret !!!
Nice idea, thanks!
BRILLIANT!
So, since I'm filing at a back angle will the depth of the slot on the headstock side of the nut be below the maximum I determined with the line that I drew (if i cut right up to the line on the fretboard side of the nut)?
You likely know the answer by now, but yes, of course. The highest point of the nut slot is the one that matters, because that's where the string "starts" (where the "zero" fret the nut stands in for would be), and as such the highest point of the nut slot should be right on the fretboard edge of the nut.
Wow. Brilliant 🙏🙏🎶
I replaced the nut with a Tusq pre slotted and the GBE slots were cut too deep!I contacted the vendor and they are sending a replacement. The strangest part was that the Low E A and D slots were just fine!Must be bad quality control.
philo426 definitely try to stay away from pre-slotted nuts,
philo426 happened to me too apparently guitars made after a specific year get a slightly different model nut
yet I didnt see this info anywhere when I bought it
Great Tip