*GET THE Mars 5 or 5 Ultra Here * - geni.us/ElegooMars5Ultra Please support us by clicking our links to check out Loot Studios *Loot Studios Sci-Fi* - geni.us/LootStudiosSciFi *Loot Studios Fantasy* - geni.us/LootStudiosFantasy *Loot Studios Freebies* - geni.us/LootStudiosFreebies After watching this, get your ass over to @RisingApe !!! ruclips.net/video/Is7bgs145rs/видео.html Get any printer working easily with the Photonsters XP Range Finder - www.thingiverse.com/thing:6023738 (watch my video for full instructions ruclips.net/video/Gm0-z971tgY/видео.html) Join this channel to get access to perks: ruclips.net/channel/UC_9Jsf3SP8aMJgn0xv5jHjAjoin Buy WARGAMER - The best Resin for Miniatures yesthats3dprinted.com/pages/wargamer?ref=FauxHammer 3D Printer Cleaning Mat: geni.us/3DPrinterCleaningMat This Video is part of our series looking for the Best 3D printer for Miniatures; www.fauxhammer.com/top-10/the-best-3d-printer-for-miniatures-models/ Special thanks to the following Creators who provided models The Damned Wargames Atlantic/@MiniWarGaming - gamefound.com/projects/mwg--wargames-atlantic/the-damned#/section/the-damned-infantry-23207 (not publically available as STL Files) Wolverine - Drafnir Studios - cgtrader.sjv.io/3eJyqv Artis Opus FauxHammer Essentials Set: store.artis-opus.com/products/fauxhammer-mixed-brush-set-5-brush-deluxe FauxHammer Facebook Group - facebook.com/groups/PaintHub FauxHammer 3D Printing Group - facebook.com/groups/3dprintedminiatures FauxHammer Discord - discord.gg/dPexM9SeN4 Best Airbrush For Miniatures: www.fauxhammer.com/top-10/best-airbrushes-for-miniatures-wargames-models/ Beginner Airbrush: www.fauxhammer.com/featured/best-beginner-airbrush-for-miniatures/ Affiliate Links to support us. Element Games - elementgames.co.uk/wargames-and-miniatures-by-manufacturer/games-workshop/warhammer-40k/warhammer-40000-indomitus-english-?d=10279 Wayland Games - affiliates.waylandgames.co.uk/781-1-3-4.html Forbidden Planet: forbiddenplanet.com/catalog/?q=Warhammer%20Imperium&sort=title&page=1&affid=FauxHammer& Amazon - www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=Warhammer&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 Website: www.fauxhammer.com/ Facebook: facebook.com/pg/FauxHammerBlog/ Twitter: twitter.com/FauxHammerBlog Instagram: instagram.com/fauxhammerblog/ Pinterest: www.pinterest.co.uk/fauxhammer/ Video Editing by VidPros: app.vidpros.io/r/J50Z26
Please 🙏🏻 we definitely need a video of how to use the calibration feature on the Saturn 4 ultra. It’s very confusing. In all the groups of Facebook this has been a major issue as well as settings. Lots of people are having a hard time levelling the plate and getting things to stick or to release easily from the plate. We definitely need a good tutorial from a real expert like yourself. On a side note thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and a keeping it real. Sincerely thank you.
I also have an issue with my saturn ultra and going through customer service hell. The back of the build plate is not pressing against the film. Using a piece of paper cut in half you can move the back portion with no resistance. The front is snug like it should. Customer service has been notified of this and they are starting me with the "is your screen working?"
Hey I was just thinking of something that I don't remember you talking about that can save people a decent amount of $$ on cleaning materials. You may be able to add this to a video. Most people should know you don't want to throw out uncured resin on stuff like gloves and paper towels. I've seen people talk about throwing that stuff in the cure station, but that just makes a mess. What I do Is use a small wash basin in front of the machine when I pull the plate off. The plate goes in the basin. I pop the parts off, and put the plate back on the machine. Next I remove the prints from the supports and wash them. The bin then gets put either in a window or outside for a few hours to cure everything. You can pop out all the cured resin from the wash bin and throw it away. Don't forgot to throw your paper towel etc. here as well. Move things around every now and then if there's a lot of stuff.
Re the Cones of Calibration - I had the *EXACT* same issue with my Saturn 4 Ultra - If you look at the base on the one in the video and compare it to the actual STL, the floor is much closer to the skull/mug than it should be. I think this is down to bottom layer exposure time - I dropped mine down to 25 seconds and it printed perfectly after that. Completely amateur take here, but it looks like the plate is rising when longer exposure times are happening, making the base layers a lot thicker than it should be... Might be miles off, but glad to see the 'compression' issue is being mentioned (I print some stuff in my Etsy store directly on the plate, and the first ones I tried on the S4U weren't sellable due to this issue)
it's not bottom exposure time, if you can try longer wait times and also see if the printer allows you to adjust the z offset. on previous ones you could send the plate to hom and then move it and then set z =0. This was for if you leveld and the height in each corner was similar but they were all eg 0.5mm low. This should auto zero but it's clearly not doing it well which could be fixed by setting a higher z offset, that or the springs are compressing when they shouldn't which could be fixed with longer wait times.
@@awildtomappeared5925 I don't know what to tell you, all I did was change the bottom exposure time and it fixed it for me - went from looking like the one in the video to looking exactly like the STL 🤷🏻♂️
Did you reduce exposure time then? I got base exposure as low as I could before stuff started falling off. But Tom knows what he’s talking about, he’s the one to explained the compression issue to me. I’ll learn more and put a video together. Once I know how to consistently show it and how to test and resolve it
@@FauxHammer Just the base exposure - It was at 35s, dropped it to 25 and the issue went away. Not discounting any info at all, it's literally all I changed and it fixed it. Intrigued to see a video on the compression thing, it's plagued me across multiple prints and printers for a while until I found ways to work around it
I kind of wish they'd just fix all the obvious design flaws (and stop introducing new obvious design flaws) and just sell one model. I wonder how many people would choose a small format if the larger format was the same quality and almost identical price.
Get your crayons out Ross ! I definitely would love to learn more about layer compression without having to endure a 90mn scientific lecture detailing their methodology test bed or the fundamentals of fluids mechanics.
If only they made an 5 Ultra version without the camera, I don't see any use for it, could've saved about 50 bucks on the cost of the machine, or they could've left out the camera, and put a heater in..
i would trade a lot of these features just for built-in heating. normally printers are heated with a heating belt, but i'm concerned this new tilting mechanism would interfere with that :/
Yo man I'm thinking of picking up the Mars 5 Ultra. I try clicking your affiliate link but it links to US site. When I change it to EU on prompt the web URL removes the affiliate in the source. Is there aw ay to get your link to work for EU store?
Picked up one of these for smaller jobs and one for a friend who owns a games and comics store and who hosts our weekly game. He does a lot of 40k, but GW is making life difficult on retailers and he's trying to stay on top of the trends. Now that ABS-like is a thing, he's getting more willing to explore options. I figure with a Mars 5 Ultra, he can get his feet wet. I wouldn't be surprised if he had a half dozen Saturn 4 Ultras cranking out models in a year. I used your link, Ross. Mazel Tov!
I think I'll stick with my Mars 3 Pro, and get the Saturn 3 for larger prints. The Saturn 4 Ultra and this 5 Ultra just isn't worth it, in my opinion...
Hm. My Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k is starting to die (LCD is wigging out a bit) and it's probably time to upgrade... So the question becomes... Mars 5 Ultra or Saturn 4 Ultra, haha.
Except for the tilt all those features add to the cost of the machine and will cause extra problems. Resin printers should be as mechanically simple as possible so that they are super easy to clean which is super important for safety. They shouldn't have any nooks and crannies for resin to hide in. They shouldn't have any additional parts like cameras or sensors that would require extra trouble shooting or that could get resin on them. I'll stick with my Mars 2 Pro. It's easy to maintain.
Hey hey hey hey hey. Slow down. I WOULD watch the rest of the video. I knew how titanic ended, still watched it. I’m here for those dulcet British Tones™.
Hahah, the slower I talk the longer the video. The longer the video, the fewer people watch when they see the timestamp. Also it costs me mroe to edit a longer vid
I'm torn about this. I like some of the features, on paper. My mars3 is still working well. I only consider the mars series, as I have limited space, and I really just use my mars for prototyping my miniature designs, so I don't currently need more. If the speed is increased, that would help immensely, so the tilt could be a great feature for me. Disappointing about the new cones of calibration not being fully successful.
I'm glad you've continued using the Micron measurement you outlined in that one video, make it a lot easier to compare the printer's detail capabilities
My wife want to buy a 3D printer for my birthday. I never had one. The question is... should it be a Mars 5 Ultra or Saturn 4 Ultra? I prefer better print quality, but the Saturn is bigger.
Will be purchasing my first resin printer for miniatures at the end of the summer so I’m anxious to see what’s available at that time. My priorities are accuracy, ease of use, ability to easily hook up ventilation (gonna be venting it to the outside with fans). I’m particularly interested in the projector (DLP) printers, but none of the consumer brands seem to be making any new ones.
Meh, not for me as I need to print directly on the build plate (apparently for some non obvious mysterious reason to the reviewer). Maybe the Mars 5 is the way to go for those of us who print functional parts directly on the build plate.
the issue will be present on the Mars 5 too. as I said, It affects every printer ever made. It will take me a while to put a video together and I'd look up the compression issue
@@FauxHammer Yes, but this looks way way worse. In your video clips you can see the build plate flexing upwards every time the vat comes up - that's not good as you are mashing the screen/vat film into the build plate/previous layers/thin layer of resin trapped between the build plate/vat surface. If there is not enough wait time between the vat reaching the top and the start of the print all sorts of things will be flexing and moving around. You should try the "slow" mode. On my Mars 3 and 4 machines I have to slow things way down for the initial layers to avoid compression, which goes against fast printing.
@@FauxHammer Hey, thanks for these videos though! I always watch your videos even though I don't print miniatures, etc. (I'm a direct on plate part printer) because invariably I learn something useful.
Hi, awesome videos, beginner looking to print resin terrain as well as miniatures, would it be best to pay the extra for the Saturn 5 or would i be ok with the Mars 5? Thank you for any help 😊
Thanks, Ross. I got the pre-order email this morning and was curious about the resolution claims. You've answered them quite handily. I think I'll stick with my Mono X 6Ks for the size and keep saving for that Micron SLS 😁
He must not watch RUclips because the way he thinks about the people that watch his videos are wrong, well from the lease my standpoint the people who watch the videos to get the information as quick as possible and then stop watching will scrub through the video so it doesn't matter where you put the information in the beginning or the end they will find it get it and click away, some people just like watching a well put together video...................
The same calibration issues you showed here I'm currently having on my new Mars 4 Ultra. I changed to nFEP but I just can't dial the resin in precisely, like I have on all my other printers (Phrozen Mini 8K, Mighty 8K, Mars 3...). The tests tell me that I need both shorter and longer exposure at the same time! The resin needs more exposure to build tensile strength as small stuff gets ripped off, but at the same time I already see clear signs of overexposure with small gaps starting to fill, small details get slightly bloated with less sharp edges. This has never happened on any of my other printers. I'm getting close to giving up on it and sending it back. If this is the same on the Mars 5 then there's no point for me.
I’m brand new to 3d printing, and I just bought the mars 5 ultra and can’t even get a basic calibration matrix or cones of calibration to adhere to the build plate. Every print just sticks to the FEP. I’m using a castable resin (Power Resins Vintage) and using a fermentation band to keep the resin warm. But other than that, I can’t figure out the issue. I can’t try and see if the plate isn’t preoperly level as the machine is supposedly self leveling. Are there any other factors that could be leading the first layers of resin to stick to the FEP instead of the build plate?
Castable resins can be trickier because they are softer, often need longer curing times and slower speed. VogMan may be a better person to ask as he uses castables. I don't. but i don;t know how responsive he is in comments, please use your printer in slow mode, that's a setting on the UI. And Increase your base exposure times. try 1 minute or longer on base exposure. if that gets parts sticking to the plate at least, that's half the battle won.
@@tomgrimes2674 Hmm, I can't think of anything else to be honest. I mean, it could be too long base exposure too. I guess the other thin may be if your plate is not level? as shown in this there is a guide on levelling from Geek Detour?
Cheers Ross. Your advice to purchase a larger model over a few quality of life features certainly resonates and is appreciated. Now I'm off to check out this, 'Bi-pedal in progress primate' friend of yours ;)
Great Video Ross!! will click on the link as soon as I commit. Would you please let me know if the Mars 4 Ultra has antialiasing working? Also I have got killer resolution with it, using normal FEP, the validation matrix is very crispy. Am I delusional? What is your opinion on the resolution of the Mars 4 Ultra?
I honestly would like to see a 5" inch, fast printer with the 18 micron pixel size. something a little smaller than say, an OG photon, with all of the modern bells and whistles.
You say you want 18 micron pixels. but so far the 18 micron printers are not as sharp as these. There's technical reasons for that which I'm gonna share in upcoming videos. like my Mars 5 video
@@gkeaton9755 100%, I'm just making sure people understand that pixel size no longer means better quality.. I;m about to doa review of a 10" 8k printer that blows 12k and 14k out of the water!
Hi! I have seen several of your videos about this type of printer, and in the latest ones, you talk about sharpness issues. If today you had to choose the best "mini" printer in terms of quality-price ratio, even if it's not the latest model, which one would you choose? Thank you!
Dimensional accuracy depends on the resin used; light intensity alone won't help in achieving it. Some low to medium quality resins can be adjusted for either tensile strength or dimensional accuracy, but not both simultaneously.
Hi, I noticed you said “you don’t know why people ever print direct on the build plate” is this always the case no exceptions ? Love the content by the way always my go to channel for 3d printing help and advice and I got the Saturn 3 12k.
Thanks, I know why I preint exposure tetsts from the bed, but I don't understand why people would print functional/usable models this way rather than support them? The early layers will be overexposed naturally for adherance reasons, so yeah, why would you introduce that natural outcome to your result? If anyone has a reason, I'd love to hear it. That;s why i made the comment, hoping i get educated
It makes sense to me but I printed a loads of micro controllers cases and if I support them I will get nubs all over the side I support. I need to have a play with it. Also get a Neptune 3 pro tomorrow ( also after watching your video ). I love you my wife hates you 😂😂😂😂
@@FauxHammer I'll take the flak 😂 - I sell printed trophies and desk-toy plaques on my Etsy store. They're designed in such a way that they don't need support if printed on the plate, and they also keep a very flat base that I've struggled to get with supports even with different orientation. Minis etc, I understand, but there are dozens of us. Dozens!
This is a weird thing to ask. You talk about anti-aliasing a lot during your reviews. If it isn't a bother would you make a video of how you choose your settings for that? Even if I am not looking for a new printer, I watch all the full videos you make and absolutely love the paint reviews. Not that I agree with them. I find that it is more of a preference when it comes to paints but it is always something new that I can look forward to seeing. Techniques you use and results. Results are more interesting to me than anything else.
yeah, that's how you should definately look at reviews. I was going to make that video this month. but Chituboix just changed all the settings in their new chituboix basic app!
Hey there! I’m new to the 3D printing world and I’m deciding between mars 4 ultra, mars 5 ultra or anycubic photo mono M5s for my 1/24 scale car parts (wheels, body kits,…). Which one do you recommend? Im more interested on the elegoo ones but don’t know which to choose from the 3. As always, great review! Keep up with the good work! Cheers from Portugal
Thanks. I favour the Saturn. But some people may need the heater in the Phiton. And with the photon you need to change the release fim to get the same detail.
I know little about resin printing, but it occurs to me that if the first few layers of prints are susceptible to compression artifacts, would it not be worth printing these calibration test with X mms of support materials under them to replicate the use case of having prints suspended from supports? Is that maybe a waste of time if prints on supports tend to come out decently anyway? I'm just wondering if people calibrate their settings based on getting the test prints to work when printed right on the bed when they're in that "zone" that is susceptible to warping, but are then printing stuff on supports anyway, then maybe the settings that were "dialed in" aren't actually *that* dialed in?
Hi, I want to exclusively 3D print relatively flat pieces but with max resolutions. I'd love to learn more about the compression issue and how you can actually get true 18µm resolution (microfluidics/microchannels with 50 to few hundred micron channel diameters inside the part). Thanks!
I’ll look to cover the compression issue. But I do t think you can get that accurate with it. At least not without hours, or even days if dialing g it in. And for that you want a more specialist technical channel. I’m the crayons guy
Did I mishear or misunderstand about the Z axis having "dual linear rails"? I see only 1, while the Saturn series has always had 2, one of the reasons I'd gone Saturn from v1 and am awaiting my 4 Ultra.
Am I the only one to think that this auto-whatever feature is actually a big disadvantage? I mean, leveling a resin printer is no big thing. And what I want least is a mechanism that just squishes the plate to the bottom for whatever amount of first layers. And this stupid concept comes with the additional bonus of the extra pain cleaning that stuff. Seriously, if Elegoo would provide a Mars/Saturn 5/4 with the old-fashioned fixed plate, even at extra costs, I'd consider buying it. But this stupid build plate is a deal breaker.
With the Saturn 4 Ultra coming out in the next few weeks I think an explicit guide to the exposure test process would be great. I would like to know if it would be ideal to use the cones of calibration or some other test.
For printing about 9 or less 32 mm miniatures (per unit) for Star Wars Legion, would this be enough or do you still recommend Saturn 4 Ultra? I don't plan to print any terrain.
Do I sense a hint of a 12-14k Jupiter coming soon? Now that my Jupiter is putting out prints with minimal failures I would hop on an upgraded one in a heartbeat
I was looking at the promo page for this and was thinking many of the same things you brought up about the size. I'll stick to the Mars 4 Ultra and see what happens instead. Thanks Ross, good video. Total protonic reversal. Right, and that's bad. Okay, good advice. Thanks, Ray.
What a shame that they didn’t change the lid to a hinged version and having a vent hole in the back of that lid. Really? Regarding printing directly on the build plate. I do that quite often with my Phrozen mini 8K. Just need to compensate using UVTools (which btw does not work on the Saturn 3 Ultra and i have yet to find out if it will work with the Saturn 4 Ultra. Reason I print on the build plate is that I print mant technical parts that have flat services and it is just easier to print directly on the build plate.
Really? Mine was fine… what sliver are you using. If it’s Lychee. That’s probably why. It’s a chitu based printer with a chitu motherboard. Chitubox is the way to go. 2xAA with 2x image blur and layer lines should be fine entirely
Question, i see you recommended bigger printers at the start, but if it's just talking about print quality, and im not interested in the larger area, is this one better? Also because in the budget that I'm currently am 270 is a lot of difference against a 330 for a saturn 3.
I would like a video about compression issue. My Saturn 4 Ultra WAS good but now has compression issues even with new Firmware supplied by Elegoo. Trying to resolve with customer service 😢
Elegoo are claiming the tilt feature on the Saturn 4 and Mars 5 is "new and innovative", yet the Prusa SL1 had this functionality nearly 6 years ago. Why has it taken so long to catch up?
@@FauxHammer Regardless of its cost or sales numbers (which "never sold" is a not true), it is still effective tech that has been around for a long time, which I think you should at least state that Elegoo are catching up.
hi faux! i’m getting ready to take the plunge into the world of 3d printing, specifically for miniatures, and i had a question about your own wargamer brand of resin. it is water washable, but would you still recommend using meth spirits regardless? in your beginner video you said that water washable resins absorb water and that can cause problems. would using meth spirits on your water washable resin avoid that problem? is it even desirable to do so?
Hiya, yes it is, and yes you can and yes I still prefer to do that myself. It can be cleaned with water unlike some other resins where water will just not dilute the resin at all, but I uses Methys mostly because a 20 minute bath with soften the resin and save you having to use warm water to heat the resin up which also makes the supports softer. Also, imagine cleaning a tile floor, you can clean it with water but cleaning it with something alcohol bases is still a more thorough clean. No idea why, I'm not a chemist, but it works.
@@FauxHammer a bigger better quality elegoo printer I'm just hoping it happens, any chance you might do that armour from you mini It would be very cool?
Amazing review, but I am torn between buying the mars 5 ultra and saturn 4 ultra. I am an absolute beginner at 3D resin printing and mostly want to print miniatures or maybe larger dragons for dnd campaigns, does anyone have advice on what to buy?
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After watching this, get your ass over to @RisingApe !!! ruclips.net/video/Is7bgs145rs/видео.html
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Special thanks to the following Creators who provided models
The Damned Wargames Atlantic/@MiniWarGaming - gamefound.com/projects/mwg--wargames-atlantic/the-damned#/section/the-damned-infantry-23207 (not publically available as STL Files)
Wolverine - Drafnir Studios - cgtrader.sjv.io/3eJyqv
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Do not buy the Mars 5. Elegoo only sells replacement LCDs for the Mars 5 Ultra.
Please 🙏🏻 we definitely need a video of how to use the calibration feature on the Saturn 4 ultra. It’s very confusing. In all the groups of Facebook this has been a major issue as well as settings. Lots of people are having a hard time levelling the plate and getting things to stick or to release easily from the plate. We definitely need a good tutorial from a real expert like yourself. On a side note thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and a keeping it real. Sincerely thank you.
Yea i cancelled my preorder after seeing this
I've been printing like mad with it. Haven't run into an issue. Will have to look into what folks are saying
I also have an issue with my saturn ultra and going through customer service hell.
The back of the build plate is not pressing against the film. Using a piece of paper cut in half you can move the back portion with no resistance. The front is snug like it should.
Customer service has been notified of this and they are starting me with the "is your screen working?"
I’ve heard of this and will do some research.
@@FauxHammer thank you kindly 🙏🏻definitely looking forward to seeing that video.
Hey I was just thinking of something that I don't remember you talking about that can save people a decent amount of $$ on cleaning materials. You may be able to add this to a video.
Most people should know you don't want to throw out uncured resin on stuff like gloves and paper towels. I've seen people talk about throwing that stuff in the cure station, but that just makes a mess. What I do Is use a small wash basin in front of the machine when I pull the plate off. The plate goes in the basin. I pop the parts off, and put the plate back on the machine.
Next I remove the prints from the supports and wash them. The bin then gets put either in a window or outside for a few hours to cure everything. You can pop out all the cured resin from the wash bin and throw it away. Don't forgot to throw your paper towel etc. here as well. Move things around every now and then if there's a lot of stuff.
Haha 😂 thanks for the shout out and yes people, use Ross’s links
Any time!!!!
Just bought mars 4 dlp. No worries regarding lcd
Yup great model👍
Great printer and excellent longgevity too
We are in need of your crayons.
I’ll get the sharpener out!
Re the Cones of Calibration - I had the *EXACT* same issue with my Saturn 4 Ultra - If you look at the base on the one in the video and compare it to the actual STL, the floor is much closer to the skull/mug than it should be. I think this is down to bottom layer exposure time - I dropped mine down to 25 seconds and it printed perfectly after that.
Completely amateur take here, but it looks like the plate is rising when longer exposure times are happening, making the base layers a lot thicker than it should be... Might be miles off, but glad to see the 'compression' issue is being mentioned (I print some stuff in my Etsy store directly on the plate, and the first ones I tried on the S4U weren't sellable due to this issue)
it's not bottom exposure time, if you can try longer wait times and also see if the printer allows you to adjust the z offset. on previous ones you could send the plate to hom and then move it and then set z =0. This was for if you leveld and the height in each corner was similar but they were all eg 0.5mm low. This should auto zero but it's clearly not doing it well which could be fixed by setting a higher z offset, that or the springs are compressing when they shouldn't which could be fixed with longer wait times.
@@awildtomappeared5925 I don't know what to tell you, all I did was change the bottom exposure time and it fixed it for me - went from looking like the one in the video to looking exactly like the STL 🤷🏻♂️
Did you reduce exposure time then? I got base exposure as low as I could before stuff started falling off.
But Tom knows what he’s talking about, he’s the one to explained the compression issue to me. I’ll learn more and put a video together.
Once I know how to consistently show it and how to test and resolve it
@@FauxHammer Just the base exposure - It was at 35s, dropped it to 25 and the issue went away. Not discounting any info at all, it's literally all I changed and it fixed it. Intrigued to see a video on the compression thing, it's plagued me across multiple prints and printers for a while until I found ways to work around it
@@NextGenBase thats not what I would expect, but the spring system is well throwing 4 springs in the works so anything can happen.
I kind of wish they'd just fix all the obvious design flaws (and stop introducing new obvious design flaws) and just sell one model. I wonder how many people would choose a small format if the larger format was the same quality and almost identical price.
Now the 4 Max is being phased out should I get this as a starter printer?
Two questions, what lights would you recommend to install?
2) for your tests of minis: what layer level are you using? 50 or 30?
Get your crayons out Ross ! I definitely would love to learn more about layer compression without having to endure a 90mn scientific lecture detailing their methodology test bed or the fundamentals of fluids mechanics.
If only they made an 5 Ultra version without the camera, I don't see any use for it, could've saved about 50 bucks on the cost of the machine, or they could've left out the camera, and put a heater in..
i would trade a lot of these features just for built-in heating. normally printers are heated with a heating belt, but i'm concerned this new tilting mechanism would interfere with that :/
Yo man I'm thinking of picking up the Mars 5 Ultra. I try clicking your affiliate link but it links to US site. When I change it to EU on prompt the web URL removes the affiliate in the source. Is there aw ay to get your link to work for EU store?
Aww. Thanks for checking mate. But it will still work. Once you go there they will have logged the visit.
Picked up one of these for smaller jobs and one for a friend who owns a games and comics store and who hosts our weekly game. He does a lot of 40k, but GW is making life difficult on retailers and he's trying to stay on top of the trends. Now that ABS-like is a thing, he's getting more willing to explore options. I figure with a Mars 5 Ultra, he can get his feet wet. I wouldn't be surprised if he had a half dozen Saturn 4 Ultras cranking out models in a year. I used your link, Ross. Mazel Tov!
Thanks mate, and yeah! That’s how it starts!!!
I think I'll stick with my Mars 3 Pro, and get the Saturn 3 for larger prints. The Saturn 4 Ultra and this 5 Ultra just isn't worth it, in my opinion...
Totally fair. Pick what is right for you. The Saturn 3 is ace!!!
Yeah so what's next the Jupiter 2/2Ultra or the Mars 5 Max ultra
No idea from Elegoo. I’ll speak more soon
Hm. My Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k is starting to die (LCD is wigging out a bit) and it's probably time to upgrade... So the question becomes... Mars 5 Ultra or Saturn 4 Ultra, haha.
lol. Saturn 4 IMO, it's sharper and bigger
Except for the tilt all those features add to the cost of the machine and will cause extra problems. Resin printers should be as mechanically simple as possible so that they are super easy to clean which is super important for safety. They shouldn't have any nooks and crannies for resin to hide in. They shouldn't have any additional parts like cameras or sensors that would require extra trouble shooting or that could get resin on them. I'll stick with my Mars 2 Pro. It's easy to maintain.
I'm pretty sure the tilt also adds to the cost and can cause extra problems.
Hey hey hey hey hey. Slow down. I WOULD watch the rest of the video. I knew how titanic ended, still watched it. I’m here for those dulcet British Tones™.
Hahah, the slower I talk the longer the video. The longer the video, the fewer people watch when they see the timestamp. Also it costs me mroe to edit a longer vid
@@FauxHammer no no, I mean slow down with the “you wouldn’t watch the rest of the video” talk; we’re here for a good time AND a long time 😂
@@GrayeWilliamsahhhhh!!! lol. Thanks. But trust me. Most wouldn’t 😂😂
Why is your timestamp wrong?
Which one?
I'm torn about this. I like some of the features, on paper. My mars3 is still working well. I only consider the mars series, as I have limited space, and I really just use my mars for prototyping my miniature designs, so I don't currently need more. If the speed is increased, that would help immensely, so the tilt could be a great feature for me.
Disappointing about the new cones of calibration not being fully successful.
Ist better than the Mars 3 but not by a huge amount. Speed is the main thing
12:23 You prefer something 9 inches plus? 😢
10” ideally. Going back to something this small just didn’t give me the volume I needed
😂😂😂😂😂
I'm glad you've continued using the Micron measurement you outlined in that one video, make it a lot easier to compare the printer's detail capabilities
Glad it was helpful!
Would be interested in the compression issue you spoke about at 4:54 :)
On it
Hi Ross!!! You got your video quickly this time! ❤
Thanks mate, made sure to have it ready for launch!
@@FauxHammer By the way I cannot find the Cones of Calibration V3 - the one with the Sword... Could you put a link for it please?
wifi only works sometimes.
other times it sends 0.01% of the file
and you have to transfer via usb
My wife want to buy a 3D printer for my birthday.
I never had one.
The question is... should it be a Mars 5 Ultra or Saturn 4 Ultra?
I prefer better print quality, but the Saturn is bigger.
Saturn 4 Ultra has both better print quality and it's bigger.
@@FauxHammer thanks!
Will be purchasing my first resin printer for miniatures at the end of the summer so I’m anxious to see what’s available at that time. My priorities are accuracy, ease of use, ability to easily hook up ventilation (gonna be venting it to the outside with fans). I’m particularly interested in the projector (DLP) printers, but none of the consumer brands seem to be making any new ones.
Meh, not for me as I need to print directly on the build plate (apparently for some non obvious mysterious reason to the reviewer). Maybe the Mars 5 is the way to go for those of us who print functional parts directly on the build plate.
the issue will be present on the Mars 5 too. as I said, It affects every printer ever made. It will take me a while to put a video together and I'd look up the compression issue
@@FauxHammer Yes, but this looks way way worse. In your video clips you can see the build plate flexing upwards every time the vat comes up - that's not good as you are mashing the screen/vat film into the build plate/previous layers/thin layer of resin trapped between the build plate/vat surface. If there is not enough wait time between the vat reaching the top and the start of the print all sorts of things will be flexing and moving around. You should try the "slow" mode. On my Mars 3 and 4 machines I have to slow things way down for the initial layers to avoid compression, which goes against fast printing.
@@FauxHammer Hey, thanks for these videos though! I always watch your videos even though I don't print miniatures, etc. (I'm a direct on plate part printer) because invariably I learn something useful.
Whose making a large detailed printer!?!? Heated? Tilting?
Come back in 1-2 weeks. Yes, No
So if your budget can stretch the S4U is a better buy then this?
100% better
What about the regular (4k) Mars 5? I can only find reviews for the ultra version
Hi, awesome videos, beginner looking to print resin terrain as well as miniatures, would it be best to pay the extra for the Saturn 5 or would i be ok with the Mars 5? Thank you for any help 😊
welcome!!! it would definately be better toi get a bigger printer
@@FauxHammer awesome thank you for the help 🙂
Thanks, Ross. I got the pre-order email this morning and was curious about the resolution claims. You've answered them quite handily. I think I'll stick with my Mono X 6Ks for the size and keep saving for that Micron SLS 😁
Ooof that SLS looks crazy interesting. Wish they would send me one!
@@FauxHammer Saving my pennies ... at $2K US, maybe by 2027 ...
He must not watch RUclips because the way he thinks about the people that watch his videos are wrong, well from the lease my standpoint the people who watch the videos to get the information as quick as possible and then stop watching will scrub through the video so it doesn't matter where you put the information in the beginning or the end they will find it get it and click away, some people just like watching a well put together video...................
The same calibration issues you showed here I'm currently having on my new Mars 4 Ultra. I changed to nFEP but I just can't dial the resin in precisely, like I have on all my other printers (Phrozen Mini 8K, Mighty 8K, Mars 3...). The tests tell me that I need both shorter and longer exposure at the same time! The resin needs more exposure to build tensile strength as small stuff gets ripped off, but at the same time I already see clear signs of overexposure with small gaps starting to fill, small details get slightly bloated with less sharp edges. This has never happened on any of my other printers. I'm getting close to giving up on it and sending it back. If this is the same on the Mars 5 then there's no point for me.
I’m brand new to 3d printing, and I just bought the mars 5 ultra and can’t even get a basic calibration matrix or cones of calibration to adhere to the build plate.
Every print just sticks to the FEP.
I’m using a castable resin (Power Resins Vintage) and using a fermentation band to keep the resin warm. But other than that, I can’t figure out the issue. I can’t try and see if the plate isn’t preoperly level as the machine is supposedly self leveling.
Are there any other factors that could be leading the first layers of resin to stick to the FEP instead of the build plate?
Castable resins can be trickier because they are softer, often need longer curing times and slower speed. VogMan may be a better person to ask as he uses castables. I don't. but i don;t know how responsive he is in comments,
please use your printer in slow mode, that's a setting on the UI.
And Increase your base exposure times. try 1 minute or longer on base exposure. if that gets parts sticking to the plate at least, that's half the battle won.
@@FauxHammer thanks Ross! So far these are all things I’ve tried, but I appreciate you taking the time to help either way… I’ll just keep trying!!
@@tomgrimes2674 Hmm, I can't think of anything else to be honest. I mean, it could be too long base exposure too.
I guess the other thin may be if your plate is not level? as shown in this there is a guide on levelling from Geek Detour?
Cheers Ross. Your advice to purchase a larger model over a few quality of life features certainly resonates and is appreciated. Now I'm off to check out this, 'Bi-pedal in progress primate' friend of yours ;)
Maybe compression is why my post/holes calibration prints seemed so flat after i replaced the vat on my5S Pro. Should i try those with supports?
Great Video Ross!! will click on the link as soon as I commit. Would you please let me know if the Mars 4 Ultra has antialiasing working? Also I have got killer resolution with it, using normal FEP, the validation matrix is very crispy. Am I delusional? What is your opinion on the resolution of the Mars 4 Ultra?
Thankyou. I’ve no idea if the Mars 4 ever fixed the antialiasing issue. I’m not sure they did.
Mars 4 ultra is same resolution as this
yes a simple explanation about the compression issue would be appreciated
I honestly would like to see a 5" inch, fast printer with the 18 micron pixel size. something a little smaller than say, an OG photon, with all of the modern bells and whistles.
You say you want 18 micron pixels. but so far the 18 micron printers are not as sharp as these. There's technical reasons for that which I'm gonna share in upcoming videos. like my Mars 5 video
You get what I am trying to say, though? Small, fast, easy to deal with. I find myself printing one or two minis at a time, not armies.
@@gkeaton9755 100%, I'm just making sure people understand that pixel size no longer means better quality.. I;m about to doa review of a 10" 8k printer that blows 12k and 14k out of the water!
Hi! I have seen several of your videos about this type of printer, and in the latest ones, you talk about sharpness issues. If today you had to choose the best "mini" printer in terms of quality-price ratio, even if it's not the latest model, which one would you choose? Thank you!
Heya. HeyGears UltraCraft Reflex, but it’s not for everyone. But this is by far the best
@@FauxHammer And in the same price range? $150-200? Even if it's an older model like the 3Pro?
Oh same price as this? I'd probably try to find a Saturn 3 , even if paying a tad more
Great review! I was wondering if you could tell me where you found the cones of calibration v3? I’d love to give it a go, but can’t find it anywhere
Dimensional accuracy depends on the resin used; light intensity alone won't help in achieving it. Some low to medium quality resins can be adjusted for either tensile strength or dimensional accuracy, but not both simultaneously.
As always, great review! Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hey Ross, a video on layer compression would be great, I had no idea that was a thing and now I understand why my small 8mm models had weird lines.
You are saying that this 18micron printer is worse than 28 micron saturn🤔
I'm saying it's not as sharp, yes. Just lik ethe Mars 4, But I did not sue the word "Worse"
@@FauxHammer well it should be sharper... please try lowering the light intensity for 20% - i had to do this on my anycubic 6k
@@SportsCarsSpotter-pk4zvHang on... I'll lower the light intensity by 20% which suggests I should also up exposure time by 20%... same result.?
Hi, I noticed you said “you don’t know why people ever print direct on the build plate” is this always the case no exceptions ?
Love the content by the way always my go to channel for 3d printing help and advice and I got the Saturn 3 12k.
Thanks, I know why I preint exposure tetsts from the bed, but I don't understand why people would print functional/usable models this way rather than support them?
The early layers will be overexposed naturally for adherance reasons, so yeah, why would you introduce that natural outcome to your result?
If anyone has a reason, I'd love to hear it. That;s why i made the comment, hoping i get educated
It makes sense to me but I printed a loads of micro controllers cases and if I support them I will get nubs all over the side I support.
I need to have a play with it.
Also get a Neptune 3 pro tomorrow ( also after watching your video ).
I love you my wife hates you 😂😂😂😂
@@FauxHammer I'll take the flak 😂 - I sell printed trophies and desk-toy plaques on my Etsy store. They're designed in such a way that they don't need support if printed on the plate, and they also keep a very flat base that I've struggled to get with supports even with different orientation. Minis etc, I understand, but there are dozens of us. Dozens!
This appears to have a single linear rail, not dual like the saturn.
It does. But so does the GkTWO and that is awesome!
Dang im looking forward to this!
Too bad i already ordered my s4u
Too bad? I think you’ll enjoy the video
@@FauxHammer oh oh lol
@@FauxHammeroh no!!
the weird thing it i almost order S4u yesterday win for me i guess
they really need to add a flexible plate
I think there is no reason for you to regret your purchase! The print size is quite bigger!
Get the crayons, I’d love a video about the compression issue!
I’m torn between this and the Anycubic mono x 6ks.
This. X6ks is end of life. You already can’t get replacement screens. But I think you’d be better with a Mars 4 max if budget is an issue
@@FauxHammer thank you for the advice
a follow up vid on that compression thing would be great! i wasnt aware of this and would love more info
Waiting for
marsh 5 dlp 4k
Will probably never happen.
Hey what layer hight do you use personally for your miniatures❤❤❤
This is a weird thing to ask. You talk about anti-aliasing a lot during your reviews. If it isn't a bother would you make a video of how you choose your settings for that?
Even if I am not looking for a new printer, I watch all the full videos you make and absolutely love the paint reviews. Not that I agree with them. I find that it is more of a preference when it comes to paints but it is always something new that I can look forward to seeing. Techniques you use and results. Results are more interesting to me than anything else.
yeah, that's how you should definately look at reviews. I was going to make that video this month. but Chituboix just changed all the settings in their new chituboix basic app!
@@FauxHammer well I hope you get it done at some point. Now that I know it is on your radar
@@jaakkosippola7191 I will. it;s been on my radar about a year, i have a draft, then they changed it!
@@FauxHammer bad timing xD but I can wait xD
Well done, and thanks for ditching the stock footage use.
I still prefer the Mars 4 Ultra over this…I’ll stick with what I have.
Is the layer compression existent on the Saturn 4 Ultra?
seems perfect for me as i only print small jewelry, thanks for the video.
Hey there! I’m new to the 3D printing world and I’m deciding between mars 4 ultra, mars 5 ultra or anycubic photo mono M5s for my 1/24 scale car parts (wheels, body kits,…). Which one do you recommend? Im more interested on the elegoo ones but don’t know which to choose from the 3. As always, great review! Keep up with the good work! Cheers from Portugal
Thanks. I favour the Saturn. But some people may need the heater in the Phiton. And with the photon you need to change the release fim to get the same detail.
I know little about resin printing, but it occurs to me that if the first few layers of prints are susceptible to compression artifacts, would it not be worth printing these calibration test with X mms of support materials under them to replicate the use case of having prints suspended from supports?
Is that maybe a waste of time if prints on supports tend to come out decently anyway?
I'm just wondering if people calibrate their settings based on getting the test prints to work when printed right on the bed when they're in that "zone" that is susceptible to warping, but are then printing stuff on supports anyway, then maybe the settings that were "dialed in" aren't actually *that* dialed in?
There is potential for that yes but I have seen it only once where the pressure release is where the details of a flat test are
Hi, I want to exclusively 3D print relatively flat pieces but with max resolutions. I'd love to learn more about the compression issue and how you can actually get true 18µm resolution (microfluidics/microchannels with 50 to few hundred micron channel diameters inside the part). Thanks!
I’ll look to cover the compression issue. But I do t think you can get that accurate with it. At least not without hours, or even days if dialing g it in. And for that you want a more specialist technical channel.
I’m the crayons guy
Did I mishear or misunderstand about the Z axis having "dual linear rails"? I see only 1, while the Saturn series has always had 2, one of the reasons I'd gone Saturn from v1 and am awaiting my 4 Ultra.
Sorry, yeah. Only 1
Am I the only one to think that this auto-whatever feature is actually a big disadvantage? I mean, leveling a resin printer is no big thing. And what I want least is a mechanism that just squishes the plate to the bottom for whatever amount of first layers. And this stupid concept comes with the additional bonus of the extra pain cleaning that stuff. Seriously, if Elegoo would provide a Mars/Saturn 5/4 with the old-fashioned fixed plate, even at extra costs, I'd consider buying it. But this stupid build plate is a deal breaker.
Fair, a few people have said this. It doesn’t bother me too much. But it’s your money! 100% Spend it how you see best to spend it!
With the Saturn 4 Ultra coming out in the next few weeks I think an explicit guide to the exposure test process would be great. I would like to know if it would be ideal to use the cones of calibration or some other test.
On it! May not have it out soon…
Do i have to do something to get my name back in the credits? This is the second vid i havent seen it...i live for it lol
I’m really sorry. It really should be there. Let me check first yoh specifically on the next update. But it’s updated at the beginning of each month.
Hey dude just leaving a comment to support you anyway I can. Appreciate all the effort u put into these.
For printing about 9 or less 32 mm miniatures (per unit) for Star Wars Legion, would this be enough or do you still recommend Saturn 4 Ultra? I don't plan to print any terrain.
I still recommend the Saturn ultra. It’s sharper. And I promise you will soon want to try bigger prints
Do I sense a hint of a 12-14k Jupiter coming soon? Now that my Jupiter is putting out prints with minimal failures I would hop on an upgraded one in a heartbeat
I can’t say. See you for a live video in the next couple of weeks
@@FauxHammer fingers crossed .
I was looking at the promo page for this and was thinking many of the same things you brought up about the size. I'll stick to the Mars 4 Ultra and see what happens instead. Thanks Ross, good video.
Total protonic reversal. Right, and that's bad. Okay, good advice. Thanks, Ray.
Hahah, thanks mate. Glad we are working the same language!
What a shame that they didn’t change the lid to a hinged version and having a vent hole in the back of that lid. Really? Regarding printing directly on the build plate. I do that quite often with my Phrozen mini 8K. Just need to compensate using UVTools (which btw does not work on the Saturn 3 Ultra and i have yet to find out if it will work with the Saturn 4 Ultra. Reason I print on the build plate is that I print mant technical parts that have flat services and it is just easier to print directly on the build plate.
Sounds fair but it would not be as easy to angle the parts, support them and not need to worry about the uv tools requirement?
Again, just curious
Simpleminded compression video, yes please!
Unfortunately these new machines from Elegoo seems to have this build plate design even w/o the tilting vat (i.e., the Mars 5).
Yep. And I’ll talk about that soon in my Saturn 4 and Mars 5 reviews.
Anti-aliasing is still a problem with my Saturn 2, which seems to produce identically aliased prints no matter how much I crank up that setting.
Really? Mine was fine… what sliver are you using. If it’s Lychee. That’s probably why. It’s a chitu based printer with a chitu motherboard. Chitubox is the way to go.
2xAA with 2x image blur and layer lines should be fine entirely
Any idea about the mars 5 vs the mars 5 ultra ?
Another great review, and heard today the ETA for the Heaters is now Aug 2024. More time to save, boost the ole budget for a Q3 purchase :)
I have one on order but Elegoo said they would send one too
Question, i see you recommended bigger printers at the start, but if it's just talking about print quality, and im not interested in the larger area, is this one better?
Also because in the budget that I'm currently am 270 is a lot of difference against a 330 for a saturn 3.
No, later in the video I say that this is just not as sharp as those bigger machines either.
But it really is a minimal difference
Oooooo Where did you get cones of calibration with the skull and sword? I’m loving my S4U and it’s cute to see it has a smaller sibling now lol. 😆
Thanks, the cones v3 is on their discord
The bottom layers compression effect can be decreased by using wait *after* cure time.
Please try it....
They can on some printers. do you know why this is the case? if so, you probably understand why it's less likely here..
How do you clean those buld plates?
anyone know what/where the primaris helm that he frequently shows off is?
I went down a rabbit hole looking for it to no avail :(
I had it commissioned.
One can see the build plate flex upward every time when the vat comes up - that's not good.
At what part of the video? This is in the early layers right? If so, that’s compression
I'm just still impatiently waiting for my Saturn 4 Ultra to ship.
Hope it’s soon!
Don't Cross the Streams - Advise from a Film and the Mens Rooms ! ! ! !
And an orgy!
16k 13 inch finally here? heard about those panels last year but it's taken a while lol
See you soon then!
I would like a video about compression issue. My Saturn 4 Ultra WAS good but now has compression issues even with new Firmware supplied by Elegoo. Trying to resolve with customer service 😢
Ok, will do it. But it’s Nothing to do with the firmware. It’s a hardware thing. Something in your printers z-me Hankin’s has loosened/weakened
@@FauxHammer Thanks! I will bring that up with Elegoo customer support.
Voice over sounds much nicer this time, thanks Ross!
Thanks mate, don’t watch my latest video, especially with headphones. Fucked it right up.
No built-in heater 🤮
I feel bad for buying the printer before watching the video, i wanted to contribute😢
No worries. Thanks for your intention of support, but so long as you got what you wanted. That’s what matters!
As always, great review 👌
Thanks so much!
what do you think that the standard mars 5 is only 4k? basically a mars 3.
I think it's a smart idea. without the Mars 3 being available, we had no printer at an entry-level price point until this.
Elegoo are claiming the tilt feature on the Saturn 4 and Mars 5 is "new and innovative", yet the Prusa SL1 had this functionality nearly 6 years ago. Why has it taken so long to catch up?
It was too expensive and never sold. Elegoo made it affordable
@@FauxHammer Regardless of its cost or sales numbers (which "never sold" is a not true), it is still effective tech that has been around for a long time, which I think you should at least state that Elegoo are catching up.
Shrunk
oh yeah, Duhhhh!
I thought mars saturn jupiter, small medium large with elegoo no?
hi faux! i’m getting ready to take the plunge into the world of 3d printing, specifically for miniatures, and i had a question about your own wargamer brand of resin. it is water washable, but would you still recommend using meth spirits regardless? in your beginner video you said that water washable resins absorb water and that can cause problems. would using meth spirits on your water washable resin avoid that problem? is it even desirable to do so?
Hiya, yes it is, and yes you can and yes I still prefer to do that myself.
It can be cleaned with water unlike some other resins where water will just not dilute the resin at all, but I uses Methys mostly because a 20 minute bath with soften the resin and save you having to use warm water to heat the resin up which also makes the supports softer.
Also, imagine cleaning a tile floor, you can clean it with water but cleaning it with something alcohol bases is still a more thorough clean. No idea why, I'm not a chemist, but it works.
@@FauxHammer Thanks for getting back to me! your channel is so helpful
The Prusa SL1 SPEED already innovated the tilting bed 3 years ago btw.
Yet nobody bought it
@@FauxHammer Yeah, it was too expensive unfortunately
Possibility of an upgraded jupiter sounds good hopefully with the tilting vat?
Hmm, I don’t think I ever suggested a Jupiter…
@@FauxHammer a bigger better quality elegoo printer I'm just hoping it happens, any chance you might do that armour from you mini
It would be very cool?
Amazing review, but I am torn between buying the mars 5 ultra and saturn 4 ultra. I am an absolute beginner at 3D resin printing and mostly want to print miniatures or maybe larger dragons for dnd campaigns, does anyone have advice on what to buy?
Saturn 4 Uktra. Easily. It’s sharper, but also it’s bigger and whether is no is or not, imo this felt crippiligly small now I’ve had a bigger one
Thank you so much for the answer, i bought saturn 4 ultra and i have no regrets. Great 3D printer and easy to use