If you’ve got more large scale media blasting to do, you might want to look into the Speed Blaster with the Hot Spot attachment, it’s a sort of nozzle and bag so it is closer and collects a decent amount of media that bounces back off the piece Used one on a cement mixer, worked good. Especially on the mostly flat sides
Great video, I live in Mt.Clemens Michigan where this ride was built.I served these guys daily with my lunch truck way back.Kings son left the company and went on the road as there animal trainer with the Shrine circus.
This project is so neat and time consuming. I'm hoping a good plan is devised as this ride will not only entertain your grandchildren but other children as well. Maybe supporting the inner walls of those holes might be an alternative but I'm not sure how the strength or the longevity of it would be. Great channel by the way, thanks for the updates.
Cheapest Media that works Great 👍 is Silica Sand, P/U at your local Box Lumber Store, Can use 2 to 3 times, Do run through a Screan. Next if there is a Industrial Blaster within Driving Range, Show up With your Pick Up and Ask Nicely 😉 they will Dump a Load in your Box 📦 for Free.... PS they have to Pay to get Rid of the Old Sand Anyway...
Pete, great observations! ...Would you be open to contacting Wisdom Industries Ride Manufacture ..or Chance rides in Kansas and Eli Bridge Company in Illinois...(Larges Carnival Ride Manufactures in US) for assistance or their engineering departments suggestions? You could even ask them if they could recreate the whole sweep stub contraption? Just an idea. I know having them recreate this in their facilities would be a little expensive, but they are great at refurbishing older rides. I have followed their rebuilds of rides for years. Just an idea! Thanks
I think those stub tubes are fine how they are. They look plenty strong. I bet you could have just filled them full of epoxy and encapsulated the rust.
Good job Pete...I wish you continued success on this project...I my self like king rides I'm making some in 1/16 scale ...set up and take down ..my way of fun ..thank you
on the sweep tubs what you can try do is full in them sweep stubs completely with fresh metal once it all cooled off and hardened and looks like steel rods drill out a fresh new hole with a drill
Hey Pete, I'm totally loving these two projects you've got going on. I read the remaining todo list behind you. I see you're considering expanded metal for the floor. Before you do this, consider the sharpness of expanded metal on a child's knees if you are ever planning to entertain kids on the3 ride in the future. Aluminum diamond plate would be better. Probably not period correct, but safety first.
what i did on ours was i fabed what i call ears and pin system simaller to the king tug boat center and put them on just before the tube so 2 times the suport and postion power even the insepter said thats a good idea on these type rides i also just scored a king flying tiger its pretty rough but what can expect for a 50+ year plus ride good luck
This is the first episode of this that I've seen. I never got a really good look at that problematic spindle piece (or whatever it is), but from what I could see of it, it appeared to be a fairly simple weldment. I don't know what you budget is, but if you can find a welding fabrication shop in your area, it looks like they could buzz the whole thing apart with an arc gouger or plasma torch in about an hour or less, then find some appropriate DOM tubing in their stock (or possibly have to order some), and put it back together with all new pipe parts in two or three hours. You might be looking at taking it to their shop in the morning and picking up the shiny new part in the afternoon, or by the next day. Getting a proper weldment made would be very much preferable to doing something with glue and prayers. I'm guessing it would be on the order of $800-$1500 to get it done by a professional fabricator.
Could you show us a bit more about how the bar interfaces to those tubes? I am having trouble visualizing if there's a bar that goes into the rusted tube, or if it wraps around the outside or what. If it goes inside, you could make a sleeve on the lathe and weld that on. Or maybe you could modify that interface a bit, and weld on another good tube further out from the center of the hub. You'd need to shorten the bars that attach to it, but then you wouldn't need to worry about the old part at all.
Sorry about that. The piece (the sweep) that attaches to this slides over the stub. So it does not need to be hollow. I think it’s just made that way because it was easy to take two pieces of schedule 40 pipe - a 1 inch and a 1 1/4 inch and slide them together and weld them on.
If I were you I would cut the old ones off completely, grind off the surface, find new tubing that is the same size, then take it to a welder. They wouldn't charge you more than maybe 150 to do it as long as you did the prepp work. Sometimes on projects you can't do everything. I'm restoring a Cadillac but I had somebody do my exhaust because I just hate doing it. Sometimes for a better end product taking it to a pro is the best option. I don't think epoxy is a good idea there is alot of stress on those pieces and epoxy has a bad habit of snapping under pressure. If you want to remove all the rust on it look up electrolysis it's amazing how it's able to remove all the rust from something and transfer it to another piece if metal. All you need is a car battery a tub of watter, and some jumper cables.
I wonder if another ride manufacturer acquired the rights to the rides after King closed its doors. I know Chance rides has the rights to Allen Herschell rides. Wisdom rides has or had rights to several others if I remember correctly but its been almost 25 years since I have been in the amusement industry. Chance was a big help to us with our Allen Herschell rides as far as finding or manufacturing parts for our rides. My question for you is are you just rebuilding this ride for your grandkids and the neighborhood kids or are you planning on setting it up to make money by selling tickets. If you are doing the latter I would think that you would have to have an engineer certify all the other changes that you have already done to the ride. If you are just doing it for the grandkids I would think that the rods in the stubs would work. For a little extra insurance just to make sure the epoxy is enough you could drill a hole in the collar and through the rods and either use a roll pin or a solid rod that you could weld in to keep it from coming out. Like you said it is pretty much just to keep the spacing of the cars. Looking good and I know you will figure out the best way to tackle this dilemma just like you have for all the rest of it.
To my knowledge nobody picked up king. Heck, I own the domain name - I bought it on a whim- so I think we’re on our own. The future plan is unknown. I would like these to have a life beyond me so they can be appreciated for future generations. So far we’ve been pretty safe with our repairs. We haven’t modified the original design. The bearings that were replaced were only machined enough to clean up the bores. Most of the actual machining done was to take the new bronze bearings down to a size to match the original. But yes- these stubs are a bigger issue. It’s why I don’t feel comfortable just gluing the pieces in. If we make a change I’d want somebody to sign off on it- but if I can get those stubs out and replace them in an identical fashion I’d be comfortable with that.
Good morning Pete just watch the video and you do have a little dilemma there but I don't see it as a big problem I have an f80 ride with the same type setup for the pipes that slide over the little inserts and like you said they're only there to hold that bottom pipe they're not supporting anything even though they are fairly well rusted that doesn't make them any less than usable and if you're still not sure I'm not sure if you're pipes go all the way into the welded section of the spindle or not and if you're not real happy with the way the outside is rusted and the inside you could take the sawzall to the tubes cut them flush and because you have a lathe you can turn out some new pieces that are solid that wouldn't rest on the inside and then weld them to the original five star spindle. Sometimes the simplest ideas are better than the original. And I know you know the thing ain't going to go 90 miles an hour like a propeller on an airplane so if something was to pop loose then you know wouldn't be that hard to stop but because the rods on the top are actually holding the pipe up I'd be more worried about the pipe itself which again is replaceable with new pipe and if you do go with new pipe you could always paint the inside of the pipe by filling it with paint and then draining it out. But it's been a long time since videos I'd like to see you step it up a little bit of 😆 lol. And also you would mentioned laser cutting the tubs are you going to go back with the wood are you going to go with like an aluminum shell for the tubs. And I know sometimes you get stuck with something in your head and you're not sure what to do but just keep us updated even if you're not doing nothing little 5-minute video saying hey this is what's going on you know so we're not constantly have to search your web page for new videos I for myself and building a swing right now so it's all come down to you know what you have for energy to put out and yes I understand the heat and the rain with me it's mostly the heat out here in the desert. Then of course winter comes and then it becomes cold can't win one way or the other but keep it up I'm happy with your progress and the ride is looking good.
I appreciate your continued support and the pushing to get me to post more often. I’m trying to put things in place that I can be here more regularly. Trying to eliminate distractions that take up my time but don’t produce results.
I believe u are overthinking & over evaluating everything. U said the ride will operate at a very low speed so tolerances should be virtually non existent.
Follow the restoration here: ruclips.net/video/xyejd7LRKMQ/видео.html
What about restore Super Shot ride
That looked like a hot job all wrapped up in a sweat suit!
It was.
If you’ve got more large scale media blasting to do, you might want to look into the Speed Blaster with the Hot Spot attachment, it’s a sort of nozzle and bag so it is closer and collects a decent amount of media that bounces back off the piece
Used one on a cement mixer, worked good. Especially on the mostly flat sides
Very nice video. Thanks for posting all your great videos.
Great video, I live in Mt.Clemens Michigan where this ride was built.I served these guys daily with my lunch truck way back.Kings son left the company and went on the road as there animal trainer with the Shrine circus.
Thanks for the info!
I have rebuilt a big Eli scrambler, considering the stubs it's probably better to overdo it
This project is so neat and time consuming. I'm hoping a good plan is devised as this ride will not only entertain your grandchildren but other children as well. Maybe supporting the inner walls of those holes might be an alternative but I'm not sure how the strength or the longevity of it would be. Great channel by the way, thanks for the updates.
Thanks for following along. That is the goal. Make sure these rides can be enjoyed for the future and are not lost to time.
Cheapest Media that works Great 👍 is Silica Sand, P/U at your local Box Lumber Store, Can use 2 to 3 times, Do run through a Screan. Next if there is a Industrial Blaster within Driving Range, Show up With your Pick Up and Ask Nicely 😉 they will Dump a Load in your Box 📦 for Free.... PS they have to Pay to get Rid of the Old Sand Anyway...
Pete, great observations! ...Would you be open to contacting Wisdom Industries Ride Manufacture ..or Chance rides in Kansas and Eli Bridge Company in Illinois...(Larges Carnival Ride Manufactures in US) for assistance or their engineering departments suggestions? You could even ask them if they could recreate the whole sweep stub contraption? Just an idea. I know having them recreate this in their facilities would be a little expensive, but they are great at refurbishing older rides. I have followed their rebuilds of rides for years. Just an idea! Thanks
I think those stub tubes are fine how they are. They look plenty strong. I bet you could have just filled them full of epoxy and encapsulated the rust.
I personally think for safety it's best to bite the bullet and remake the whole sweep assembly
That is the current plan.
Looking good. I hate sandblasting no mater how much protection I wear I end up getting sand in places I really don’t want.
lol
Good job Pete...I wish you continued success on this project...I my self like king rides I'm making some in 1/16 scale ...set up and take down ..my way of fun ..thank you
on the sweep tubs what you can try do is full in them sweep stubs completely with fresh metal once it all cooled off and hardened and looks like steel rods drill out a fresh new hole with a drill
You can ream them out or set it up in a mill and bore the old parts. If you're not in a hurry I cab help you out with it.
Hey Pete, I'm totally loving these two projects you've got going on. I read the remaining todo list behind you. I see you're considering expanded metal for the floor. Before you do this, consider the sharpness of expanded metal on a child's knees if you are ever planning to entertain kids on the3 ride in the future. Aluminum diamond plate would be better. Probably not period correct, but safety first.
what i did on ours was i fabed what i call ears and pin system simaller to the king tug boat center and put them on just before the tube so 2 times the suport and postion power even the insepter said thats a good idea on these type rides i also just scored a king flying tiger its pretty rough but what can expect for a 50+ year plus ride good luck
Nice job Pete. I wish we where neighbours so I could lend you a hand.
This is the first episode of this that I've seen. I never got a really good look at that problematic spindle piece (or whatever it is), but from what I could see of it, it appeared to be a fairly simple weldment.
I don't know what you budget is, but if you can find a welding fabrication shop in your area, it looks like they could buzz the whole thing apart with an arc gouger or plasma torch in about an hour or less, then find some appropriate DOM tubing in their stock (or possibly have to order some), and put it back together with all new pipe parts in two or three hours.
You might be looking at taking it to their shop in the morning and picking up the shiny new part in the afternoon, or by the next day. Getting a proper weldment made would be very much preferable to doing something with glue and prayers. I'm guessing it would be on the order of $800-$1500 to get it done by a professional fabricator.
Another great episode Pete! I wasnt able to get my dark ride, he was way over the value.....got close to having it though.
Sorry to hear that. Hopefully something else will come along
Could you show us a bit more about how the bar interfaces to those tubes? I am having trouble visualizing if there's a bar that goes into the rusted tube, or if it wraps around the outside or what. If it goes inside, you could make a sleeve on the lathe and weld that on. Or maybe you could modify that interface a bit, and weld on another good tube further out from the center of the hub. You'd need to shorten the bars that attach to it, but then you wouldn't need to worry about the old part at all.
Sorry about that. The piece (the sweep) that attaches to this slides over the stub. So it does not need to be hollow. I think it’s just made that way because it was easy to take two pieces of schedule 40 pipe - a 1 inch and a 1 1/4 inch and slide them together and weld them on.
wow so cool
I would like to see it finished instead of setup rides
Can you find another company that can make you a new one that's my advice but stronger when they make it
they may be threaded
so cool
If I were you I would cut the old ones off completely, grind off the surface, find new tubing that is the same size, then take it to a welder. They wouldn't charge you more than maybe 150 to do it as long as you did the prepp work. Sometimes on projects you can't do everything. I'm restoring a Cadillac but I had somebody do my exhaust because I just hate doing it. Sometimes for a better end product taking it to a pro is the best option. I don't think epoxy is a good idea there is alot of stress on those pieces and epoxy has a bad habit of snapping under pressure. If you want to remove all the rust on it look up electrolysis it's amazing how it's able to remove all the rust from something and transfer it to another piece if metal. All you need is a car battery a tub of watter, and some jumper cables.
I honestly don't see why you don't just go ahead and rebuild the head. That way you know it's 100% safe.
That is probably what is going to happen
Do you have the set up ferris wheel Sky Diver thank s
I don’t have the sky diver. I’ll hopefully be doing a Ferris wheel 🎡 in a few weeks
I wonder if another ride manufacturer acquired the rights to the rides after King closed its doors. I know Chance rides has the rights to Allen Herschell rides. Wisdom rides has or had rights to several others if I remember correctly but its been almost 25 years since I have been in the amusement industry. Chance was a big help to us with our Allen Herschell rides as far as finding or manufacturing parts for our rides. My question for you is are you just rebuilding this ride for your grandkids and the neighborhood kids or are you planning on setting it up to make money by selling tickets. If you are doing the latter I would think that you would have to have an engineer certify all the other changes that you have already done to the ride. If you are just doing it for the grandkids I would think that the rods in the stubs would work. For a little extra insurance just to make sure the epoxy is enough you could drill a hole in the collar and through the rods and either use a roll pin or a solid rod that you could weld in to keep it from coming out. Like you said it is pretty much just to keep the spacing of the cars. Looking good and I know you will figure out the best way to tackle this dilemma just like you have for all the rest of it.
To my knowledge nobody picked up king. Heck, I own the domain name - I bought it on a whim- so I think we’re on our own. The future plan is unknown. I would like these to have a life beyond me so they can be appreciated for future generations. So far we’ve been pretty safe with our repairs. We haven’t modified the original design. The bearings that were replaced were only machined enough to clean up the bores. Most of the actual machining done was to take the new bronze bearings down to a size to match the original. But yes- these stubs are a bigger issue. It’s why I don’t feel comfortable just gluing the pieces in. If we make a change I’d want somebody to sign off on it- but if I can get those stubs out and replace them in an identical fashion I’d be comfortable with that.
could the pipes be cut down as close as possible then drilled out just a pain with the size
and loving the editing nice one
That’s kinda the thought I have. Just need to figure out how without breaking my wrists with a big hand drill. Lol
@@PeteRondeau very true defiantly don't want that drill spinning
@@PeteRondeau Can you rent/borrow a magnetic base drill? Design a welded chanel/face plate to drill one out a time for the mag base.
Nice train. Is that your NEXT project?😁
Yeah. But first I need to build a siding and a tunnel to hide It in so I can secretly divert it when it comes through
Keep us posted...we're wishing you the best. Lol
Good morning Pete just watch the video and you do have a little dilemma there but I don't see it as a big problem I have an f80 ride with the same type setup for the pipes that slide over the little inserts and like you said they're only there to hold that bottom pipe they're not supporting anything even though they are fairly well rusted that doesn't make them any less than usable and if you're still not sure I'm not sure if you're pipes go all the way into the welded section of the spindle or not and if you're not real happy with the way the outside is rusted and the inside you could take the sawzall to the tubes cut them flush and because you have a lathe you can turn out some new pieces that are solid that wouldn't rest on the inside and then weld them to the original five star spindle. Sometimes the simplest ideas are better than the original. And I know you know the thing ain't going to go 90 miles an hour like a propeller on an airplane so if something was to pop loose then you know wouldn't be that hard to stop but because the rods on the top are actually holding the pipe up I'd be more worried about the pipe itself which again is replaceable with new pipe and if you do go with new pipe you could always paint the inside of the pipe by filling it with paint and then draining it out. But it's been a long time since videos I'd like to see you step it up a little bit of 😆 lol. And also you would mentioned laser cutting the tubs are you going to go back with the wood are you going to go with like an aluminum shell for the tubs. And I know sometimes you get stuck with something in your head and you're not sure what to do but just keep us updated even if you're not doing nothing little 5-minute video saying hey this is what's going on you know so we're not constantly have to search your web page for new videos I for myself and building a swing right now so it's all come down to you know what you have for energy to put out and yes I understand the heat and the rain with me it's mostly the heat out here in the desert. Then of course winter comes and then it becomes cold can't win one way or the other but keep it up I'm happy with your progress and the ride is looking good.
I appreciate your continued support and the pushing to get me to post more often. I’m trying to put things in place that I can be here more regularly. Trying to eliminate distractions that take up my time but don’t produce results.
put some liquid in and use the brush
I believe u are overthinking & over evaluating everything. U said the ride will operate at a very low speed so tolerances should be virtually non existent.
We have one of these rides also in Kentucky if you need anything let us know www.Bluegrassrides.com
Thanks for the info!