Probably a GPU died in that AGP socket... well done bringing it back to life!! I noticed that using the manual pump you also need to wiggle the pins afterwards with strong tweezers to let them totally free, and that yields the best results. The problem with desoldering is that some components, sometimes, are very very uncooperative, but mostly it's not a very complicated job and with an electric pump, it's even easier.
In the UK it is sold by CPC Farnell (Element14) using their Duratool brand. The spares are quite reasonable including filters at £1.37 listed as "Filters for D00672 Soldering Iron 5 Pack - D00759". I haven't got the station but when the next big job comes I will surely buy one. The over voltage on the fan and other tips have been noted, thanks.
I had the same clogging problem with this unit when I first bought it. I found a desolder temp of 375 deg and giving the iron time to properly heat the joint before hitting the trigger to suck up the solder fixed the clogging issue. I honestly cannot remember the last time I had to use the cleaning pin. Also any very dry dull joint I would wet with fresh solder before then desoldering.
Hello Sir, I use a Goot TP-100 desoldering gun. I must say that the original desoldering tip assembly was kind of faulty, couldn't desolder nothing, always cluttering. Bought replacement front assemble from ebay and new cleaning needle (original got stuck inside). Now it works really good. In fact I agree with you, this king of tool worth every euro spent on it. Videos more often please and keep that awesome soundtrack pumping. Regards, Jorge
Hello Jorge, thank you for sharing your experience. In my case I wouldn't go so far to tell, that the desoldering tip is defective. I think it's somehow to expect, that it gets cluttered from time to time. It also heavily dependent on the amount of flux, solder, age of materials etc. Sometimes I can completely desolder a full AGP, like I showed in the video, and sometimes I can't get a 16 pin IC out of the board, because the tip gets clogged all the time. Anyway, it is good to know, that other people experience similar problems, I guess. Thank you also for your kind words, I really would love to release my videos more often, however it still costs me a lot of time and I am still trying to improve my skills to get all of this done more quickly. I have so much material, that I could fill three channels with it, but unfortunately I just can't get things done. Actually I am a full time software developer and I'm doing this videos in my spare time only. Anyway, I'll try my best and hope to see you on my channel again, watching many more interesting videos in the next year :) And for now, I wish you all the best and a happy new year !!!
For cheap filters .... replacements , use your wife's makeup cleaning pads . Just cut them with scissors into the dimensions you want and that's all . A must thing to do is NOT to let your wife know about it .
I use mine to remove the switches from keyboards. After about 10 boards with up to 400 solder points each I did start to run into some trouble. I thought my heating element was bad since it would report the temperature but still was having a hard time. So I replaced it and it still had a hard time. I tried one of the other tips that came with it and it worked like the first day I got it. I can't really explain how the tip isn't transferring heat properly. Maybe theres some internal cracks.... So if your station is reporting correct high temps but solder still wont melt, try another tip before replacing the element.
The original filter should be ceramic based it is possible to clean and reuse it using an appropriate flux thinner. Isopropyl alcohol should do the trick.
I tried to clean that, but nothing helped. It also gets a lot worse if you desolder very old parts where colophony was used to solder back in the days.
Even a brand desoldering station ike Hakko 474 will get clogged. There is only one simple solution. Let it warm up at 5 to 10 minutes so the whole tube will be hot enough. The problem is not that the tip is not hot enough. It is the tube which runs from the tip to the solder collection tube, that gets clogged.
Hi, I have no experience with another desoldering stations, but I guess you are right. However, if I am working with it, it usually runs for longer, than 5-10 minutes anyway, still I have to clean it from time to time. I also have a feeling, that it became worse after some time. May be through cleaning the tube, it got some scratches inside and now the residue sticks better on the walls?! Anyway, this tool is still a huge help and I am glad to have it.
@@necro_wareI do ;-) Since I do a lot of desoldering. So I tried several machines. The ZD 915, 985 an 8915 are all made by Zhongdi in China. Not the out of the box performance, but the build quality and longterm reliability is the big difference with a brand like Hakko. Aoyue produces good mid range gear.
Hi, no I don't, but the tip gets bad after a while because you have to wiggle the parts during the desoldering and that scratches the tip from inside. You barely can avoid, that it get's damaged after a while. I already replaced 3 tips, but I also do a lot of desoldering on oxidized contacts, which is very stressful for the tip.
Also, if you are interested in this desoldering station, you should really take a look at another video I made about it later: ruclips.net/video/2zr097eMff0/видео.html
good day. I've been looking at this station for a long time. I would like to know if you tried to dismantle pci-e, on lead-free solder. is power enough?
Hi, it is doable, however, it is not easy and I'm not sure if any desoldering station can do this easily. To desolder lead-free joints, you will have to go over all contacts with leaded solder first and then work with additional heat gun desoldereing the joints one by one. It is a tedious job and I hate to desolder lead-free stuff, but I did it already couple of times and it took a long time :)
@@necro_ware I already have multiple dismantling experience, using infrared station, air gun and adding lead solder. I spend 2-3 hours on this, many pins remain in the board, since even at 3kw it is not possible to warm up evenly and so as not to damage the mask. I hope this equipment will reduce the time and effort spent.
Yeah, well, I don't quite remember anymore, but I guess, it took me like 20 minutes to desolder that AGP slot. It's not PCIe, but still quite nasty and I can't imagine, I'd be able to do this without the station.
@@necro_ware I do. I add and solder with Rose's alloy. I heat the textolite with the lower heating up to 150-170 degrees. I add heating from the top so as not to melt the plastic 240-250. turns out well. but for a very long time. sorry for my english.
Yes, rose's metal is also something I'm using from time to time if I want to prevent the parts from overheating. For example in one of my latest videos, about overclocking a 386 CPU, I used rose's metal to get the SMD CPU from the board without damaging it. Your English is just fine, at least as good as my. I'm also not a native speaker, as you probably can hear it from my videos :)
The other cheap ass way of desoldering is using a paint stripper heat gun on the board and when it's hot enough tapping the board on a hard surface with the components facing down, anything that had it's solder hot enough to melt will fall out. Best done in a well ventilated room or outside :-D
Probably a GPU died in that AGP socket... well done bringing it back to life!! I noticed that using the manual pump you also need to wiggle the pins afterwards with strong tweezers to let them totally free, and that yields the best results. The problem with desoldering is that some components, sometimes, are very very uncooperative, but mostly it's not a very complicated job and with an electric pump, it's even easier.
In the UK it is sold by CPC Farnell (Element14) using their Duratool brand. The spares are quite reasonable including filters at £1.37 listed as "Filters for D00672 Soldering Iron 5 Pack - D00759". I haven't got the station but when the next big job comes I will surely buy one. The over voltage on the fan and other tips have been noted, thanks.
I had the same clogging problem with this unit when I first bought it. I found a desolder temp of 375 deg and giving the iron time to properly heat the joint before hitting the trigger to suck up the solder fixed the clogging issue. I honestly cannot remember the last time I had to use the cleaning pin. Also any very dry dull joint I would wet with fresh solder before then desoldering.
Ok, thank you for suggestions! I'll try it.
Hello Sir, I use a Goot TP-100 desoldering gun. I must say that the original desoldering tip assembly was kind of faulty, couldn't desolder nothing, always cluttering. Bought replacement front assemble from ebay and new cleaning needle (original got stuck inside). Now it works really good. In fact I agree with you, this king of tool worth every euro spent on it.
Videos more often please and keep that awesome soundtrack pumping.
Regards, Jorge
Hello Jorge, thank you for sharing your experience. In my case I wouldn't go so far to tell, that the desoldering tip is defective. I think it's somehow to expect, that it gets cluttered from time to time. It also heavily dependent on the amount of flux, solder, age of materials etc. Sometimes I can completely desolder a full AGP, like I showed in the video, and sometimes I can't get a 16 pin IC out of the board, because the tip gets clogged all the time. Anyway, it is good to know, that other people experience similar problems, I guess.
Thank you also for your kind words, I really would love to release my videos more often, however it still costs me a lot of time and I am still trying to improve my skills to get all of this done more quickly. I have so much material, that I could fill three channels with it, but unfortunately I just can't get things done. Actually I am a full time software developer and I'm doing this videos in my spare time only. Anyway, I'll try my best and hope to see you on my channel again, watching many more interesting videos in the next year :)
And for now, I wish you all the best and a happy new year !!!
For cheap filters .... replacements , use your wife's makeup cleaning pads . Just cut them with scissors into the dimensions you want and that's all . A must thing to do is NOT to let your wife know about it .
I use mine to remove the switches from keyboards. After about 10 boards with up to 400 solder points each I did start to run into some trouble. I thought my heating element was bad since it would report the temperature but still was having a hard time. So I replaced it and it still had a hard time. I tried one of the other tips that came with it and it worked like the first day I got it. I can't really explain how the tip isn't transferring heat properly. Maybe theres some internal cracks.... So if your station is reporting correct high temps but solder still wont melt, try another tip before replacing the element.
To prevent clogging, run the station at a high temp. I run mine at almost max temperature and barely get clogs.
The original filter should be ceramic based it is possible to clean and reuse it using an appropriate flux thinner. Isopropyl alcohol should do the trick.
I tried to clean that, but nothing helped. It also gets a lot worse if you desolder very old parts where colophony was used to solder back in the days.
Even a brand desoldering station ike Hakko 474 will get clogged. There is only one simple solution. Let it warm up at 5 to 10 minutes so the whole tube will be hot enough. The problem is not that the tip is not hot enough. It is the tube which runs from the tip to the solder collection tube, that gets clogged.
Hi, I have no experience with another desoldering stations, but I guess you are right. However, if I am working with it, it usually runs for longer, than 5-10 minutes anyway, still I have to clean it from time to time. I also have a feeling, that it became worse after some time. May be through cleaning the tube, it got some scratches inside and now the residue sticks better on the walls?! Anyway, this tool is still a huge help and I am glad to have it.
@@necro_wareI do ;-) Since I do a lot of desoldering. So I tried several machines. The ZD 915, 985 an 8915 are all made by Zhongdi in China. Not the out of the box performance, but the build quality and longterm reliability is the big difference with a brand like Hakko. Aoyue produces good mid range gear.
I've stopped using flux for desoldering, it's often better to add fresh tin.
I do both. Flux helps to get through the oxide on the old solder joints. Sometimes fresh tin just doesn't want to stick on it.
The agp slot will not fit the other way around as there is a plastic pin where the key is.
That's true...
I know this is an old video but I have a question about how you maintain the tip. Do you need to regularly tin it with solder like a regular iron?
Hi, no I don't, but the tip gets bad after a while because you have to wiggle the parts during the desoldering and that scratches the tip from inside. You barely can avoid, that it get's damaged after a while. I already replaced 3 tips, but I also do a lot of desoldering on oxidized contacts, which is very stressful for the tip.
Also, if you are interested in this desoldering station, you should really take a look at another video I made about it later: ruclips.net/video/2zr097eMff0/видео.html
@@necro_ware I have watched it - very informative, thanks.
good day. I've been looking at this station for a long time. I would like to know if you tried to dismantle pci-e, on lead-free solder. is power enough?
Hi, it is doable, however, it is not easy and I'm not sure if any desoldering station can do this easily. To desolder lead-free joints, you will have to go over all contacts with leaded solder first and then work with additional heat gun desoldereing the joints one by one. It is a tedious job and I hate to desolder lead-free stuff, but I did it already couple of times and it took a long time :)
@@necro_ware I already have multiple dismantling experience, using infrared station, air gun and adding lead solder. I spend 2-3 hours on this, many pins remain in the board, since even at 3kw it is not possible to warm up evenly and so as not to damage the mask. I hope this equipment will reduce the time and effort spent.
Yeah, well, I don't quite remember anymore, but I guess, it took me like 20 minutes to desolder that AGP slot. It's not PCIe, but still quite nasty and I can't imagine, I'd be able to do this without the station.
@@necro_ware I do. I add and solder with Rose's alloy. I heat the textolite with the lower heating up to 150-170 degrees. I add heating from the top so as not to melt the plastic 240-250. turns out well. but for a very long time. sorry for my english.
Yes, rose's metal is also something I'm using from time to time if I want to prevent the parts from overheating. For example in one of my latest videos, about overclocking a 386 CPU, I used rose's metal to get the SMD CPU from the board without damaging it. Your English is just fine, at least as good as my. I'm also not a native speaker, as you probably can hear it from my videos :)
The other cheap ass way of desoldering is using a paint stripper heat gun on the board and when it's hot enough tapping the board on a hard surface with the components facing down, anything that had it's solder hot enough to melt will fall out.
Best done in a well ventilated room or outside :-D
Yes :) I do it sometimes, if I need to get everything from a PCB. But, boy, it stinks...