I am a roofer with 18 years into the trade. The same way you measured and explained it is the same way an electrician taught me when all the trades used to sit and have lunch together every day. Good educational videos my man. Keep up the good videos
The end of the tape measure moves for a very good reason. If you're PUSHING on an edge, it moves IN to make the outside of the end your 0 line If you're PULLING on an edge, it moves OUT to make the inside of the end your 0 line. I do want to say that i also do not use the edge when doing measurement that need to be accurate to within 1/16 or 1/8, but that's due to the fact that the end is prone to being warped and damaged, giving an inaccurate measurement as a result. In times I have no choice but to use the end for a mark and need accuracy -- hole layout on a gutter for example -- I'll measure and mark the same distance off both ends of the gutter, measure between the marks, find and mark center, and then do my 1" start off that center line instead. Just a quick FYI. Great video as always man!
the one thing I like for marking out panels and boxes is using painters tape and putting all my marks on that, so I have a super clean looking box once I pull the tape off after drilling all the holes.
I use empty soup cans that I sharpen on one side and mount bits in the other and hand crank those through because I had to take a second mortgage out to get a Milwaukee Packout to store them in.
The Milwaukee knock out set is 👌 *chefs kiss* 👌 I am replacing a bunch of transformers right now and the knockouts are solid AF. The Milwaukee set is an absolute must have!
Thank you for all the years of educational videos, tutorials, reviews. As an electrician that forgets things all the time, its nice to come back to videos and get a refresh
When using carbide hole saws use the clutch setting, simple green for cutting oil, and a slow speed. It will save you from breaking off teeth and ruining the bit. I used to go through several bits a year and using the clutch and taking just a bit more time makes them last forever. The carbide gets dull really fast due to the heat if you drill at high speed.
Knockout punches are great for enlarging existing holes in metal boxes as well, where there's nowhere for a hole-saw pilot to engage. Can make the hole offset in an eccentric direction if needed, too, or even cut across pre-punched knockout panels without tearing them up. You can use the smaller 1/2" punch to make a hole large enough for the drawbar of the larger punches. Takes two punch cycles, but it's quieter and produces fewer metal shavings you have to clean up, and can work if you don't have a hole saw or step-bit handy at all. The outer diameter of the outer punch die is just slightly larger than the size of the corresponding conduit locknut. If you put the head of the drawbar inside the box, and that outer punch hard up against the wall of the box, you'll be guaranteed to still have enough space around the hole to fit a locknut on the fitting.
Gotta love the Milwaukee 6 ton knock out set I own one myself as a industrial electrician and most times we only have one hydraulic knock out set on site between two crews working on one site and dealing with apprentices breaking dies . It sure has paid for itself
We have two of the Milwaukee battery KO kits, plus the 2-1/2”-4”. It is absolutely the best performing tool of all of our tools. It works flawlessly all day, and doesn’t eat up battery at all. I have personally punched 4” holes in 1960’s 3/8” thick cable tray and it just keeps going. I will say the ball n socket provided with the kit does eat up some travel and it left me hanging more than once, so I just never use it. Not fun when the machine maxes out travel with the KO stuck and half punched. But yes, best KO kit period. Fast efficient and fun to use.
Pro-tip: wear safety glasses, especially if you are drilling above you. Seriously, my first month on the job I got a hot metal shard in my eye and had to get it drilled out. Always use glasses!
Cardboard boxes are cheap & so are safety glasses, use both !...to prevent burns on your skin/eyes. It only takes a min more to keep the hot shards off your arms and out of energized gear, a ring magnet collects shards effectively too.
I have been using a Carbide set for trade size holes 1/2, 3/4, and 1" for at least 5 years. They are great for small holes! IDEAL 36-311 carbide set... For larger holes I have a hydraulic knock out set.
I learned how to sharpen my stepped bits. I can get about 5 or 6 sharpenings out of one before the tip is gone. I also use tapping/drilling fluid or thread cutting oil when I drill. If you are ever drilling over carpeting put some cardboard down, so that metal does not melt into the carpeting. You can also put one of those doughnut magnets around the hole to catch the metal filings as they come off the bit.
AGAIN, USE CARDBOARD! You just scratched up a brand new box on rough concrete. Sorry, I do industrial work where all that stuff is exposed for everyone to see. I have 5 & 6 inch punches that are wrench drawn, and they are over 60 years old. You use a pipe wrench to turn the draw stud.
$1200 for up to 2 inch if you want the 3 inch and 4 inch knockout it’s another $200. I’ve been in the electrical industry since 1989, this is the best and easiest way to make holes in metal.
@@mikecooper2732 No, the >easiest< way to punch holes in metal is with a .50 BMG :) Admittedly, you're limited to about a 1/2" diameter hole, and sometimes the edges are a little ragged. But it's definitely the easiest -- a single "click" and you have a hole.
If you look on the sides of the “receiving cup” of the hand KO set, you’ll likely see 4 tick marks to align with. They’re not as nice and easily visible as the Milwaukee ones, but they definitely help
I have a swivel Dottie set I love it because you can swivel it in into tight spots and it’s pretty compact. I like using masking tape also when mapping out the 🕳.
Makita needs to step their game up and start making sets like this too. Milwaukee taking over the game with hand and power. I been heavily invested in Makita over the years and thinking of trading some for some Milwaukee in the future.
Been doing that for few years now but with dewalt half inch impact and socket with threaded stud and any k.o. And Ya it’s so much better than any hydraulic Knock out. Set. But only cost me few hundred bucks. Works great. So fast and easy.
I think you'll find that there are two main types of ko sets. Standard (two and four point) and slugbuster that breaks the cut out into two pieces. Now how you use them can be done in multiple ways which I suppose is what you mean by types of knockout sets. Small sets are typically used with a wrench, 1/2" to two inch by a ratchet set(my favorite method, not the ratchet wrench but a two handed tool), and 2" and up with a hydraulic pump. All three methods are interchangeable so if you have a hydraulic pump set up to punch big holes and you need a smaller one you can use the pump on it to.
iirc, the pilot bits on the klein and ideal carbide cutters are stepped. i have found that no matter how much i baby them they break off (esp the klein). the greenlee pilot bits for the carbide hole saws are not stepped
Carbide hole saws can be used for up to 2 inch trade size, they are all I use anymore after 20 years in the trade, much cheaper and less hassle. 1500$ is a lot for convenience... use a 5/16 self tapper to make your initial pilot hole, saves wear on the carbide hole saw pilot bit. EZ ARC brand carbide hole saws are reasonably priced, buy one a week and soon you'll have a set. WD 40 is your cheapest cutting fluid, a magnetized flat head screw driver collects the metal shards quickly and gets into corners, finally, use your 1/2 drill chuck settings... let it do the slipping rather than injury from the drill binding up on the metal, cutting holes in boxes on low speed with today's cordless drills can be brusing experience, use that clutch!
You should try manual knockout set and instead of ratchet just use a 3/8th Milwaukee stubby impact gun with the right size socket. It’s automatic and about 200 dollars lol
When you're on the low end of the totem pole the boss buys a Milwaukee set that he'll use 2x a month and gives you his manual set that you'll use every day.
Find the center mark by marking one threaded hole of the cutter. Also, take the carbide off of the mandrel when drilling your pilot hole. When it breaks through you can chip your carbides and rack your pilot bit.
8:39 The end of a tape measure moves so whether you're measuring from an outside corner, or an inside corner, you get the correct measurement. It's riveted so that the movement is the same as the return thickness.
@@tonyr6751 lol. A lumber mill once told me that you should catch the tape with your finger so that the return doesn't slam when you are retracting. If you retract at full speed all the time the rivet holes will deform and mess up your measurements.
The main reason for the carbide tipped hole saws or unibits failing is too high drill speed, slow it down and it will last, I do lot's of penetrations in stainless enclosures, slow speed and a bit of lubrication allows tools to last more than one application.
Apprentice here. What I was taught was: - pilot hole with drill bit first, - the use unibit, - but keep on Speed 1, to keep the heat from dulling your unibit.
Carbide hole saws can be used for up to 2 inch trade size, they are all I use anymore after 20 years in the trade, much cheaper and less hassle. 1500$ is a lot for convenience... use a 5/16 self tapper to make your initial pilot hole, saves wear on the carbide hole saw pilot bit. EZ ARC brand carbide hole saws are reasonably priced, buy one a week and soon you'll have a set. WD 40 is your cheapest cutting fluid, a magnetized flat head screw driver collects the metal shards quickly and gets into corners, finally, use your 1/2 drill chuck settings... let it do the slipping rather than injury from the drill binding up on the metal, cutting holes in boxes on low speed with today's cordless drills can be brusing experience, use that clutch!
@@davidwilson4190 Thanks! I've found the same, with hole saws. But I never have the right size. But your "buy one a week" suggestion is a good idea. And I never used a fluid when cutting holes. Does it make a difference? What about the mess?
@@icevariable9600 anything that keeps the carbide teeth cooler will make your tools last longer, WD-40 just seems to transfer the heat to the metal surfaces, just a little, no need to fire hose it down
I use hole saws for anything wood or sheet rock. I use the carbide bits for metal only. Everything I do is low voltage. I almost never need a hole over an inch.
If you would use a pencil to make your line larger than you outer hole, the hand knockouts have alinement marks to square up on the line so that the holes will always be centered. Just like the red lines later in the video, but smaller, harder to see, and not red. Thumbs up on the video.
Haha! I think its so funny you are as pumped about this tool as me. I just started my business and this was the first investment on tools I made. I get a raging clue every time I use this thing!
I have all three, greenlee ratchet and the hydraulic from my dad, I got a job that paid for the milwaukee with just that one job, Mines went bad twice/ or should I say I used it enough times I had to get it rebuilt twice and everytime it was the bladders that hold the hydraulic fluid and here I was thinking it had no hydraulics
You should clean and lube the threads on the bolt that goes through the center of the punch before each hole. I also recommend using a good high pressure anti-seizing compound instead of just oil. The aluminum or copper based anti-seizing compound will make the job go faster and extend the life of the threads.
The end of the tape measure moves for a reason as the first inch of a tape measure is actually 15/16 so as you pull on the tape measure it stretches a 16th of an inch to give you a full inch also known as true zero… Milwaukee has come out with quite a few specialty tools recently that make it really nice for the trades
I got the greenlee manual knockout set, but I use the milwaukee high torque impact wrench with socket. Works very fast. Only had to get couple new bolts but much faster than manual
Greenleee 767! Saved my bacon! I'm very strong for a woman, and even now can manage to keep up with the younger guy in productivity (experience pays dividends). But - hydraulics and the best power tools made things requiring brute strength possible for me. I enjoyed watching Dustin muscle through that 1.5" conduit hole, but even he can't do that many all day, every day without wearing his wrists out.
the company I worked for before bought a milwaukee 18v KO set, and my foreman literally won't let anyone use it, so it was just sitting in the job box, while I use the heavy-ass hydraulic KO (which is fine), but I wished I could have tried it out, it looks pretty sweet, my personal set is a hand-cranked one, for hand-cranked KO, always use a cheater bar to KO those bigger holes to prevent injury, : )
Used this sweet girl on a job doing all the infrastructure for a bunch of pantographs that was all run in SS316, custom boxes and all. This thing popped through that shit like no ones business. It’s worth every single penny lol
I know someone has told u before but always use pencils and not markers.. I got chewed out for using markers so much that I wouldn't carry any markers for the longest time.. and I am a big milwaukee inksall fan boy.. when u become top pro amd start hiding your mistakes then u learn to use silver sharpies on metal.. lol I do it all the time now.. I make my layouts with pencil and go over the important parts with a silver sharpie.. or u can get soap stones or w/e the welders call them.. I have a few but I don't like them.. the markings they make wont hold up as well as a pencil..
No C frame punch? We used to prefab cans with the old C frames. Good apprentice work. Have a journeyman do the layout lines. We also use an 881 bender's or a 666 bender's hydraulic pump to run the KO sets so it's super fast and you can destroy the cutters and dies very easily.
Hey Dustin, got a question you might have some experience with. I can't find much in my googling. I've got a new mexico journeyman license, but have been working in Texas for the last couple of years...I know there's reciprocity between the states but it's been suggested that I'd be better off if I wrote the exam and got a Texas license as well. Do you know how I'd go about that? Do I need to get all my hours signed off again like when I was an apprentice? Is there an equivalency exam I could just take? Any insight would be appreciated sir. Thanks By the way, many insightful videos 👍
Dustin you should review the southwire marksman. It’s a conduit layout tool for panels. I bought one but haven’t used it in the field yet seems pretty nifty to get perfect spacing from 1/2” to 4”.
I really like the carbide hole saws, especially when you are making a hole into something with wire in it. Because it will stop about a half inch in, and the spring on the pilot bit helps slow you down once it pierces the metal, so the hole saw doesn't grab suddenly and jerk your hand and wrist around. These are worth the investment! Personally, I think Greenlee is made from better metal and last longer. I like there drill and tap sets as well; they're handy for so many things!
You glaze over my preference fo KOs - carbide hole cutters. The fastest method. Tool abusers will do too fast and burn pilots and knock off teeth. I’ve has some sets from before they were trendy. Going on ten years. Only I use them - they are mine… A small pilot like 1/8” to get precise placement. Do all layouts based on center of holes in hole inch increments. Skip fractions whenever possible. Then a moderate speed - without rocking the hole cutter. Smoke means you’re going to fast. The same rules you would apply to bi-metal hole saws! (If you didn’t know that already) A well cared for tool will last years. If you have help that doesn’t have a healthy respect for tools. Add misc money to the job for bi-metal hole saws - and make them a job cost. Burn one - no big deal. If they survive into the next job - bonus. Have carbide hole cutter for wood as well - they don’t get used on metal- and the metal ones don’t get used on wood. My guys know my rules and will police each other.
The tape measure whether pushed or pulled will measure 1",try this and see if pulling measure from inside of hook to the inch mark and when pushing use the outside of the hook to measure..
@@juz4kix YES!!!! So many times I've seen someone store them cutting edge down on a service truck. Then wonder why they lose the sharp point and call them junk. Operator error!
I have used my 3/8 impact gun and a 1" socket with my manual ko set and it works great too, at least up to 2". I haven't tried it on larger sizes. One less tool to buy for smaller jobs.
Hey I just watched the Roger walkfeild plumber vs electrician and I was wondering if you could do do some videos talking about all the different kinds electrical work like low voltage. Something other than the standered residential and commercial work you know I've just been curious about it
Absolutely cool...... i use step bits all the time on my modified computer case builds... i alway use a cutting oil as well. Suggestion..... try a plastic hole template... they have center line markings for exact center's. You can use the template with your knockout kit size cutters for making perfectly centered holes. The templates have a range of hole sizes from real tiny to very large sizes.
I've also tried using a 1 inch socket on a impact wrench when using the manual way. It does shorten the life of the knock out it self, but its nice for tight areas. also cheaper than buying the actual knockout tool.
I am a roofer with 18 years into the trade. The same way you measured and explained it is the same way an electrician taught me when all the trades used to sit and have lunch together every day. Good educational videos my man. Keep up the good videos
The end of the tape measure moves for a very good reason.
If you're PUSHING on an edge, it moves IN to make the outside of the end your 0 line
If you're PULLING on an edge, it moves OUT to make the inside of the end your 0 line.
I do want to say that i also do not use the edge when doing measurement that need to be accurate to within 1/16 or 1/8, but that's due to the fact that the end is prone to being warped and damaged, giving an inaccurate measurement as a result.
In times I have no choice but to use the end for a mark and need accuracy -- hole layout on a gutter for example -- I'll measure and mark the same distance off both ends of the gutter, measure between the marks, find and mark center, and then do my 1" start off that center line instead.
Just a quick FYI. Great video as always man!
the one thing I like for marking out panels and boxes is using painters tape and putting all my marks on that, so I have a super clean looking box once I pull the tape off after drilling all the holes.
Last time i asked to borrow someone's knock out set, they said "okay" and knocked my ass out 🤣
I use empty soup cans that I sharpen on one side and mount bits in the other and hand crank those through because I had to take a second mortgage out to get a Milwaukee Packout to store them in.
The Milwaukee knock out set is 👌 *chefs kiss* 👌 I am replacing a bunch of transformers right now and the knockouts are solid AF. The Milwaukee set is an absolute must have!
What's the tool number?
@@JadedMax 2677-23
Ya if u have an extra 2gs laying around... 🤔
@@joshespe7985 my employer provides them
@@LexElectric mine too. They are nice. But I could never justify having one of my own on a Journeyman's wage .
My boss has that Milwaukee knockout set. I have to find excuses to use it because it's just awesome.
Thank you for all the years of educational videos, tutorials, reviews. As an electrician that forgets things all the time, its nice to come back to videos and get a refresh
Thank you for watching my friend!
When using carbide hole saws use the clutch setting, simple green for cutting oil, and a slow speed. It will save you from breaking off teeth and ruining the bit. I used to go through several bits a year and using the clutch and taking just a bit more time makes them last forever.
The carbide gets dull really fast due to the heat if you drill at high speed.
19:47
Knockout punches are great for enlarging existing holes in metal boxes as well, where there's nowhere for a hole-saw pilot to engage. Can make the hole offset in an eccentric direction if needed, too, or even cut across pre-punched knockout panels without tearing them up.
You can use the smaller 1/2" punch to make a hole large enough for the drawbar of the larger punches. Takes two punch cycles, but it's quieter and produces fewer metal shavings you have to clean up, and can work if you don't have a hole saw or step-bit handy at all.
The outer diameter of the outer punch die is just slightly larger than the size of the corresponding conduit locknut. If you put the head of the drawbar inside the box, and that outer punch hard up against the wall of the box, you'll be guaranteed to still have enough space around the hole to fit a locknut on the fitting.
I like to use a hammer and nail to punch a starter hole through thin sheet metal or a self tapping screw.
I'd invest in an automatic center punch. Minor tool, but absolutely worth it.
Anyone doing distro should own an auto punch for sure, slick tool
Pro tip: a 1" socket and an impact driver make that $300 ratcheting set just as fast and easy as that $1800 electric set.
I've been doing that for years without any issues, only used the ratchet a few times in tight spots.
Gotta love the Milwaukee 6 ton knock out set I own one myself as a industrial electrician and most times we only have one hydraulic knock out set on site between two crews working on one site and dealing with apprentices breaking dies . It sure has paid for itself
We have two of the Milwaukee battery KO kits, plus the 2-1/2”-4”. It is absolutely the best performing tool of all of our tools. It works flawlessly all day, and doesn’t eat up battery at all. I have personally punched 4” holes in 1960’s 3/8” thick cable tray and it just keeps going. I will say the ball n socket provided with the kit does eat up some travel and it left me hanging more than once, so I just never use it. Not fun when the machine maxes out travel with the KO stuck and half punched. But yes, best KO kit period. Fast efficient and fun to use.
Pro-tip: wear safety glasses, especially if you are drilling above you. Seriously, my first month on the job I got a hot metal shard in my eye and had to get it drilled out. Always use glasses!
No joke dude, this happens to people so often. Great tip!
My rule of thumb is if your squinting put them on. My hardhat fits a pair of safety glasses in-between the shell and the harness
@@thomasr1051 why do my safety glasses get foggy?🤓
Just drill with your eyes closed
Cardboard boxes are cheap & so are safety glasses, use both !...to prevent burns on your skin/eyes. It only takes a min more to keep the hot shards off your arms and out of energized gear, a ring magnet collects shards effectively too.
I have been using a Carbide set for trade size holes 1/2, 3/4, and 1" for at least 5 years. They are great for small holes! IDEAL 36-311 carbide set... For larger holes I have a hydraulic knock out set.
SNIFF SINIFF, [TAKE CARE OF THAT COLD]
My master eletrician makes me use a damn step bit for the last 3 years... I feel like I could cry now.
I come from VN and working job same you. My tools like you. I watching your video for learning English. Thanks you.
I learned how to sharpen my stepped bits. I can get about 5 or 6 sharpenings out of one before the tip is gone. I also use tapping/drilling fluid or thread cutting oil when I drill. If you are ever drilling over carpeting put some cardboard down, so that metal does not melt into the carpeting. You can also put one of those doughnut magnets around the hole to catch the metal filings as they come off the bit.
AGAIN, USE CARDBOARD! You just scratched up a brand new box on rough concrete. Sorry, I do industrial work where all that stuff is exposed for everyone to see. I have 5 & 6 inch punches that are wrench drawn, and they are over 60 years old. You use a pipe wrench to turn the draw stud.
Let's play "Guess how much that Milwaukee 4 piece set costs".
Big bag
$1200 for up to 2 inch if you want the 3 inch and 4 inch knockout it’s another $200. I’ve been in the electrical industry since 1989, this is the best and easiest way to make holes in metal.
Prices have sure come down I paid upwards of 4k to aquire mines
@@mikecooper2732 No, the >easiest< way to punch holes in metal is with a .50 BMG :) Admittedly, you're limited to about a 1/2" diameter hole, and sometimes the edges are a little ragged. But it's definitely the easiest -- a single "click" and you have a hole.
KO sets are all expensive. My basic Greenly is $500, and that only has a torque wrench
If you look on the sides of the “receiving cup” of the hand KO set, you’ll likely see 4 tick marks to align with. They’re not as nice and easily visible as the Milwaukee ones, but they definitely help
Yeah, surprised some don't know about that too.
We would always grab a soapstone to highlight the tick marks
I have a swivel Dottie set I love it because you can swivel it in into tight spots and it’s pretty compact. I like using masking tape also when mapping out the 🕳.
I have that same klein KO set and use a half inch impact to drive the stud... vonderbah!
Makita needs to step their game up and start making sets like this too. Milwaukee taking over the game with hand and power. I been heavily invested in Makita over the years and thinking of trading some for some Milwaukee in the future.
Theyre too fixated on homeowner grade lawn equipment. I feel like you do as well.
Greenlee makes a battery knockout tool that uses Makita batteries.
Been doing that for few years now but with dewalt half inch impact and socket with threaded stud and any k.o. And Ya it’s so much better than any hydraulic Knock out. Set. But only cost me few hundred bucks. Works great. So fast and easy.
I really appreciate a guy that is dialed into his trade. It's an inspiring thing to watch.
I am seriously drooling all over the place looking at this. I feel weird inside right now.
I think you'll find that there are two main types of ko sets. Standard (two and four point) and slugbuster that breaks the cut out into two pieces. Now how you use them can be done in multiple ways which I suppose is what you mean by types of knockout sets. Small sets are typically used with a wrench, 1/2" to two inch by a ratchet set(my favorite method, not the ratchet wrench but a two handed tool), and 2" and up with a hydraulic pump. All three methods are interchangeable so if you have a hydraulic pump set up to punch big holes and you need a smaller one you can use the pump on it to.
iirc, the pilot bits on the klein and ideal carbide cutters are stepped. i have found that no matter how much i baby them they break off (esp the klein). the greenlee pilot bits for the carbide hole saws are not stepped
Dustin got Milwaukee Sponsorship money now he snifflin
Am I the only one that picked up on that as well?
I used the last tool , the Milwaukee knockout and what a sweet tool it is
Carbide hole saws can be used for up to 2 inch trade size, they are all I use anymore after 20 years in the trade, much cheaper and less hassle. 1500$ is a lot for convenience... use a 5/16 self tapper to make your initial pilot hole, saves wear on the carbide hole saw pilot bit. EZ ARC brand carbide hole saws are reasonably priced, buy one a week and soon you'll have a set. WD 40 is your cheapest cutting fluid, a magnetized flat head screw driver collects the metal shards quickly and gets into corners, finally, use your 1/2 drill chuck settings... let it do the slipping rather than injury from the drill binding up on the metal, cutting holes in boxes on low speed with today's cordless drills can be brusing experience, use that clutch!
I've used all of these. the milwaukee one is by far the best. pays for itself in labour cost after 1 good sized job
Works way better on pre-cut rings on knockouts. Glad I bought the entire set.
I use a 1" impact socket for the hand crank set instead of the ratchet, so much better. But that Milwaukee tool looks amazing.
I always oil the threads on the punch bolt so it spins smooth and it actually gets pretty hot sometimes
You should try manual knockout set and instead of ratchet just use a 3/8th Milwaukee stubby impact gun with the right size socket. It’s automatic and about 200 dollars lol
When you're on the low end of the totem pole the boss buys a Milwaukee set that he'll use 2x a month and gives you his manual set that you'll use every day.
Check the wrench size on the manual set, find the appropriate bit for the drill/driver....
also with the Milwaukee it splits the knock out for easy removal from the ko punch
Find the center mark by marking one threaded hole of the cutter.
Also, take the carbide off of the mandrel when drilling your pilot hole. When it breaks through you can chip your carbides and rack your pilot bit.
Learned this the hard way about the carbide :/
8:39 The end of a tape measure moves so whether you're measuring from an outside corner, or an inside corner, you get the correct measurement. It's riveted so that the movement is the same as the return thickness.
Yup. Surprised how many people just think they have an old tape measure that has come loose.
@@wakes_inc *_"I spent 3 hours at Home Depot trying to find a tape measure that wasn't loose at the end!"_* haha
@@tonyr6751 lol. A lumber mill once told me that you should catch the tape with your finger so that the return doesn't slam when you are retracting. If you retract at full speed all the time the rivet holes will deform and mess up your measurements.
@@wakes_inc That makes sense.
When I'm measuring less than 2 inches I use a line and not the end so it can lay flat
Add some wd-40 to the step bit and those shards should stick to the bit
The main reason for the carbide tipped hole saws or unibits failing is too high drill speed, slow it down and it will last, I do lot's of penetrations in stainless enclosures, slow speed and a bit of lubrication allows tools to last more than one application.
Apprentice here.
What I was taught was:
- pilot hole with drill bit first,
- the use unibit,
- but keep on Speed 1, to keep the heat from dulling your unibit.
Same way I was taught at 18 years old in 1999.
Carbide hole saws can be used for up to 2 inch trade size, they are all I use anymore after 20 years in the trade, much cheaper and less hassle. 1500$ is a lot for convenience... use a 5/16 self tapper to make your initial pilot hole, saves wear on the carbide hole saw pilot bit. EZ ARC brand carbide hole saws are reasonably priced, buy one a week and soon you'll have a set. WD 40 is your cheapest cutting fluid, a magnetized flat head screw driver collects the metal shards quickly and gets into corners, finally, use your 1/2 drill chuck settings... let it do the slipping rather than injury from the drill binding up on the metal, cutting holes in boxes on low speed with today's cordless drills can be brusing experience, use that clutch!
@@davidwilson4190 Thanks! I've found the same, with hole saws. But I never have the right size. But your "buy one a week" suggestion is a good idea. And I never used a fluid when cutting holes. Does it make a difference? What about the mess?
@@icevariable9600 anything that keeps the carbide teeth cooler will make your tools last longer, WD-40 just seems to transfer the heat to the metal surfaces, just a little, no need to fire hose it down
@@davidwilson4190 Gotchya. Thanks.
Greenlee knockout set is awesome idk about the other brands I haven't used them but I'm sure they all do the same
Done 'em all---but you did a great job showing how!! Jim
I use hole saws for anything wood or sheet rock. I use the carbide bits for metal only. Everything I do is low voltage. I almost never need a hole over an inch.
If you would use a pencil to make your line larger than you outer hole, the hand knockouts have alinement marks to square up on the line so that the holes will always be centered. Just like the red lines later in the video, but smaller, harder to see, and not red. Thumbs up on the video.
Haha! I think its so funny you are as pumped about this tool as me. I just started my business and this was the first investment on tools I made. I get a raging clue every time I use this thing!
I used to have a set of greenlee chassis punches, just used a shifting spanner after drilling the correct hole.
I have all three, greenlee ratchet and the hydraulic from my dad, I got a job that paid for the milwaukee with just that one job,
Mines went bad twice/ or should I say I used it enough times I had to get it rebuilt twice and everytime it was the bladders that hold the hydraulic fluid and here I was thinking it had no hydraulics
Also becareful out there I've snapped are arbor off of one these milwaukee knockout
the whole point of carbide is that it is more heat resistant. it is, however, not as resistant to shock loads as high speed steel...
You should clean and lube the threads on the bolt that goes through the center of the punch before each hole. I also recommend using a good high pressure anti-seizing compound instead of just oil. The aluminum or copper based anti-seizing compound will make the job go faster and extend the life of the threads.
The end of the tape measure moves for a reason as the first inch of a tape measure is actually 15/16 so as you pull on the tape measure it stretches a 16th of an inch to give you a full inch also known as true zero… Milwaukee has come out with quite a few specialty tools recently that make it really nice for the trades
We have the Milwaukee set 1/2 to 4"" it's a must have.
Years ago, I remember using an electric impact to drive the nut doing knockout vs ratcheting. Noise, yes, but also fast.
I’m about to share this to my journeymen right now
I've said it before, but I really dig this 8-bit music theme.
I got the greenlee manual knockout set, but I use the milwaukee high torque impact wrench with socket. Works very fast. Only had to get couple new bolts but much faster than manual
Greenleee 767! Saved my bacon! I'm very strong for a woman, and even now can manage to keep up with the younger guy in productivity (experience pays dividends). But - hydraulics and the best power tools made things requiring brute strength possible for me. I enjoyed watching Dustin muscle through that 1.5" conduit hole, but even he can't do that many all day, every day without wearing his wrists out.
the company I worked for before bought a milwaukee 18v KO set, and my foreman literally won't let anyone use it, so it was just sitting in the job box, while I use the heavy-ass hydraulic KO (which is fine), but I wished I could have tried it out, it looks pretty sweet, my personal set is a hand-cranked one, for hand-cranked KO, always use a cheater bar to KO those bigger holes to prevent injury, : )
i miss the trade, i wish i wasnt so broken, your vids are great.
yeah that knock out set is sweet use it daily, my favorite Milwaukee tool right now though is there m18 threader love that thing.
Greenlee makes carbide hole cutters with replaceable teeth. Better than throwing the whole arbor away each time a new guy burns your up.
Why not use an impact for the manual version?
This is on the list, being a general contractor now, I tend to not need this nearly as much. However, I would still buy it lol
all that hand motion your the scotty Kilmer of electrians! LOL
Could you just use an impact with a socket on the manual one?
Sure can, 1” socket full send. Although you will have to replace a draw stud every now and again.
RIP junction box….thank you for your service.
What bit are you using to drill the hole? I need 7 of them.
Used this sweet girl on a job doing all the infrastructure for a bunch of pantographs that was all run in SS316, custom boxes and all. This thing popped through that shit like no ones business. It’s worth every single penny lol
I never use a Sharpie on a box or any bend marks on exposed conduit....always a pencil & those marks are always removed. Great vids!
Thanks. Just passed to friend’s son who is about to enter apprenticeship.
Nothing beats the good ole green lee hydraulic set lol
I love my Milwaukee cordless knockout set
I know someone has told u before but always use pencils and not markers.. I got chewed out for using markers so much that I wouldn't carry any markers for the longest time.. and I am a big milwaukee inksall fan boy.. when u become top pro amd start hiding your mistakes then u learn to use silver sharpies on metal.. lol I do it all the time now.. I make my layouts with pencil and go over the important parts with a silver sharpie.. or u can get soap stones or w/e the welders call them.. I have a few but I don't like them.. the markings they make wont hold up as well as a pencil..
No C frame punch? We used to prefab cans with the old C frames. Good apprentice work. Have a journeyman do the layout lines. We also use an 881 bender's or a 666 bender's hydraulic pump to run the KO sets so it's super fast and you can destroy the cutters and dies very easily.
Hey Dustin, got a question you might have some experience with. I can't find much in my googling.
I've got a new mexico journeyman license, but have been working in Texas for the last couple of years...I know there's reciprocity between the states but it's been suggested that I'd be better off if I wrote the exam and got a Texas license as well.
Do you know how I'd go about that? Do I need to get all my hours signed off again like when I was an apprentice? Is there an equivalency exam I could just take?
Any insight would be appreciated sir.
Thanks
By the way, many insightful videos 👍
Thanks for watching! Try asking in our discord server: discord.com/invite/7ykYfbh
There might be someone there who's been in the same situation.
Carbide is best when used fast unlike bi-metal which needs more care taken to drilling speed.
The Klein knockout set is good for me I just put my impact wrench with a deep socket instead of cranking it I drill through it like the Milwaukee
Dustin you should review the southwire marksman. It’s a conduit layout tool for panels. I bought one but haven’t used it in the field yet seems pretty nifty to get perfect spacing from 1/2” to 4”.
Use self drilling screws to start before using the unibit, it'll save you some time!
I really like the carbide hole saws, especially when you are making a hole into something with wire in it. Because it will stop about a half inch in, and the spring on the pilot bit helps slow you down once it pierces the metal, so the hole saw doesn't grab suddenly and jerk your hand and wrist around. These are worth the investment! Personally, I think Greenlee is made from better metal and last longer. I like there drill and tap sets as well; they're handy for so many things!
You glaze over my preference fo KOs - carbide hole cutters. The fastest method. Tool abusers will do too fast and burn pilots and knock off teeth. I’ve has some sets from before they were trendy. Going on ten years. Only I use them - they are mine…
A small pilot like 1/8” to get precise placement. Do all layouts based on center of holes in hole inch increments. Skip fractions whenever possible.
Then a moderate speed - without rocking the hole cutter. Smoke means you’re going to fast. The same rules you would apply to bi-metal hole saws! (If you didn’t know that already) A well cared for tool will last years.
If you have help that doesn’t have a healthy respect for tools. Add misc money to the job for bi-metal hole saws - and make them a job cost. Burn one - no big deal. If they survive into the next job - bonus.
Have carbide hole cutter for wood as well - they don’t get used on metal- and the metal ones don’t get used on wood.
My guys know my rules and will police each other.
yeah my boss got two sets of the milwalke ones. so damn good
The tape measure tip moves so you can measure by pushing your tape against the inside of something and hook it onto the outside of something
The tape measure whether pushed or pulled will measure 1",try this and see if pulling measure from inside of hook to the inch mark and when pushing use the outside of the hook to measure..
Keep the dies, cups and draw bolts clean. A little dirt can ruin knock out tools.
And store your dies with the cutting edge OUT of the cup.
@@juz4kix YES!!!! So many times I've seen someone store them cutting edge down on a service truck. Then wonder why they lose the sharp point and call them junk. Operator error!
Excelente vídeo y muy interesante,saludos
I have used my 3/8 impact gun and a 1" socket with my manual ko set and it works great too, at least up to 2".
I haven't tried it on larger sizes.
One less tool to buy for smaller jobs.
Id face the box opening away when using. Wasn't to long ago I saw one of the knock outs explode while knocking out the hole. but awesome tool for sure
So far my Pittsburgh hydraulic punch kit hasn't let me down yet.
Had a question For the hand knock-out set can you use an impact wrench with a socket, to punch the hole out? instead of using the wrench. 🔧
Hey I just watched the Roger walkfeild plumber vs electrician and I was wondering if you could do do some videos talking about all the different kinds electrical work like low voltage. Something other than the standered residential and commercial work you know I've just been curious about it
Agree would like to see some content on panel building/servicing and motorl control stuff.
You can use a socket on your impact gun with the manual set also.
Nós perdemos muito tempo fazendo algumas adaptações quando não temos as ferramentas adequadas.
Ferramenta é tudo.
Parabéns pelo excelente trabalho.
Absolutely cool...... i use step bits all the time on my modified computer case builds... i alway use a cutting oil as well. Suggestion..... try a plastic hole template... they have center line markings for exact center's. You can use the template with your knockout kit size cutters for making perfectly centered holes. The templates have a range of hole sizes from real tiny to very large sizes.
I've also tried using a 1 inch socket on a impact wrench when using the manual way. It does shorten the life of the knock out it self, but its nice for tight areas. also cheaper than buying the actual knockout tool.