By far the best carriage upgrade that I have seen for the 7X mini lathe. Very thorough explanation. I appreciate the time spent filming, editing and uploading this information.
@@SteveJordan Really great job Steve (My name is also Steve). Great ideas, and great, calm, explanations/demonstrations. I really appreciate your style... It's like listening to one of your best friends explaining something to you, rather than listening to some robot instructor you don't know. Thank you so much Steve. Also, is there any chance you could help me with the problem I'm having with my machine? I just bought it preowned (supposedly never used). It's the 7x12 harbor freight, online order only, model. I'm still in the process if figuring it out, but for some reason I can't get consistent cuts. Because of this, I took pretty much everything apart. I cleaned everything up, spent a small amount of time lapping the ways/cross slides etc (very little... Not enough to measurably change any of the tolerances), relubed, and put everything back together, making sure everything was adjusted. But still, when making a a cut across the length of a 4 inch or so long piece of material, I get inconsistencies, as though something is still loose. (Please forgive my lack of knowledge rearding terminology) I've got both of the cross slides (left/right, forward/backward adjusted super tight, to the point to where it's even miserable to advance either one of them, but still I'll get deviations of several thou. of an inch on the diameter of my material over a couple inch section. Please help. I bought this lathe for the specific purpose of making a rear axle for an ebike I build for a friend. An axle that is far back ordered, with no other possible sources, and he is very anxious to get his bike going. Thanks so much Steve
3 месяца назад+1
This was beautiful to watch and listen to. Thank you very much.
Nice Job, I have a lathe that has a great deal of movement in the carriage and in the cross slide, and I appreciate receiving ideas from those who have figured out how to fix these kinds of problems. Once again, Good Job!
The best method for tightening studs is to thread two nuts onto the stud and then tighten them up against each other. You can then use the nut on the opposite side of the direction you want the stud to be driven to turn it in. The nuts lock together allowing you to apply a lot of torque to the stud and once you're done, you release the lower one [on the side of the part that is was inserted into and then simply spin bot off. Saves damage to the thread and allows far more torque to be applied to the stud than the pliers method. Has the added advantage that if needed you can torque them to a specified value with a torque wrench. Looks like a nice mod, might have to give it a whirl as parting on my CJ18 is a fraught affair. Keep up the great vids!
Thank you for the time you spent on this; a lathe like that is about all I have room to house and it's comforting to know there are meaningful upgrades for them.
Wow. I always suspected these saddle pieces were the weak link in the carriage. Thanks for doing all the leg work on this. You CLEARLY are both dedicated & competent. Great work on those upgrades!
Steve, thanks for that! My lathe is a twin to yours, without the very nice makeover. I've been slowly making modifications along the lines you have, but I was a long way behind where you were. No more after this video! The solidity of the carriage and the carriage lock is just awesome! Thank you for that video, you have given me a great project to start immediately!
+David Kennedy Hi David thanks for watching. I may not have any more Mini Lathe upgrades but I hope to show more tools to use on it and work holding fixtures etc....Regards Steve
Hi Steve, I’m new to machining, so your videos have been extremely helpful. I just purchased a new Sieg SC3 7” x 16” lathe with 500W brushless motor, and completed my first cut on steel. Suffice to say it was not pretty! I had massive tool chatter from excessive play in the lathe. I actually saw the tool move when in came into contact with the steel! This modification will be one of the first things I do to the lathe, so I can get some half decent cuts. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge.
Hi Greg, You should be able to machine ok with the lathe from new. Many people when they first get a lathe and start machining tend to make the mistake of taking too deeper cuts. Also when cutting steel I only use carbide insert tools such as the ones that take the 070204 inserts. If you have this tool set on center height, the lathe gibs correctly adjusted on the saddle and cross-slide and only take .010" cuts (,020" overall) you should get good finishes on stainless steel. Obviously you can take deeper cuts on softer materials. The upgrade does make the lathe much better especially for milling, but it is still best to use the machine as I have mentioned above. I say this because there are people that try to claim that they can take massive cuts with this lathe. Or they say that they part-off steel. This generally isn't possible with the standard compound slide and the fact that the lathe doesn't have a coolant system anyway. I do all 'parting-off' off of the lathe, in the bench vice with a hack-saw then finish face on the lathe, except when machining brass or plastics! This lathe is a great machine and I have made hundreds of great components using it, but that is because I know not to try and use it as a much more expensive heavy duty machine. Thanks for watching...Regards Steve
Steve Jordan Hi Steve, thanks for the reply. To be fair, the first cut I did, the lathe was in ‘as delivered’ condition. I was certainly not making deep cuts, 0.002” was all. I spent some time today cleaning up the lathe, adjusting both the gibs, adjusting saddle, lapping, lubing etc and have now removed nearly all the play. Now when I push/pull on the toolpost there is no discernible movement which is great. It’s now making decent cuts with just the cheap carbide tipped tools.
So glad I found your video's Steve as I've just purchased a mini lathe and I've never used one before so hopefully I'll get the basics sorted and then have a go at making some of your great modifications
Hi Steve Great that you have bought a Mini Lathe. I had mine about a year before I did any modifications. They are usually ok from new as long as you check the gib strip adjustment regularly. Also don't be tempted to make massive cuts like people say they do. I only take .010" cuts (.020" overall) maximum on most turning operations, even on my Myford lathe now. Also I do not use a parting off tool except on brass as I do not have coolant. I just use a vice and hacksaw to cut bar or components off then face to length on the lathe. I say this as many people have tool breakages which can be quite off-putting when starting machining, especially with part-off tools. Hope you get on well......Thanks for watching.....Regards Steve
Steve Jordan thanks for your reply , have you done a video on how to cut threads using the mini lathe as I've watch quite a few and still don't understand it but I assume it's because the Ines I've watched are on bigger more professional lathes.... thanks
I really do need to get a couple of chickens! We used to have some when we lived in Bolton 15 years ago and I found they take all the tension and stress out of your life, I could sit and watch them for hours. We live in Norfolk now with big gardens so it is ideal...
Yes the chickens are really nice to keep. They all have their own individual character. It is very relaxing watching them. The eggs are exellent as well, so much better than shop ones.
mmmmmm ... I forgot about the eggs, they are fantastic. I used to go to my local fishing tackle shop every now and then and buy a tub of maggots, put the tub down and listen to them 'chirp' in delight, all their birthdays have come at once...
I agree with you, that is a quite nice upgrade. And I like your ingenuity on the fasteners for the back plate. You have the alignment length but you don't have to thread the nut all the way down. Good one Steve.
Thank you so much for this video. It is exactly what I need to do to my new Chinese mini lathe, I will also be using your compound slide locking screws to improve that.
Yay, I finally get to see the chickens! I keep hearing them in the background of your videos, so I knew you had a few. :-) I do need to figure out a good way to attach a shield to the front of the carriage to keep the chips off the bed in front of it when cutting. I don't know if I'm ready to do the full carriage upgrade just yet, I'm still learning to use my 7X10 mini lathe.
Hi thanks for subscribing. Great that you have bought a Super mini lathe. I hope to do some new engineering videos soon using mine. Just waiting for some warm weather as I have no heating in the workshop. Regards Steve
Now you've done it. I am tempted to get one of those lathes just so I can upgrade it as you have. I think I would go with standard metric threads and fasteners in the places where you have used BA. Also, I am leery of having steel (even mild steel) rubbing up against the cast iron of the bed. One of the advantages of having precision scraped surfaces is that they are not perfectly flat and are instead composed of both slightly low and slightly high surfaces. The lows serve as oil reservoirs that stop the cast iron from wearing quickly. Finely ground surfaces rubbing against each other wear much more quickly than precision scraped surfaces. My approach would be to mill the mild steel 5 or 10 thousandths too deep and then fill the gap with brazing rod. Then mill the brazing flat and hone to a precise fit. Let the brass soak up the wear and be replaced when necessary... sort of like Turcite. Have you put tapered bearings into this machine? Cheers, Norm Berls Katy, Texas
Ah..Oh.. Wish I d seen you videos before I sold my Conquest! Looked at a much bigger version with 1200 w motor but its not exactly portable.I have a 1910 Drummond ,strange choice perhaps, but seems to have had very little use, instead. When I m a bit more settled I ll look at the bigger lathes again and suspect your upgrades are going to be useful even on that. Very good Steve thank you for doing the videos
Hi Steve - I would like to thank you sincerely for posting such brilliant videos. I am very new to the metal working hobby but I am so enjoying making stuff and your videos not only have some great projects but the manner in which you deliver the content makes me want to get in the workshop and make things. My thanks again and please keep up the excellent work - for me you have one of the best channels. Regards, Jim
Splendid idea! I'm going to think about that middle plate for my machine (an Aussie metric equivalent of the popular American G0602) this weekend. Thanks for sharing! :)
Thanks Steve, God bless your soul. I love the use of valve grinding paste idea, the clamps for clean food for your chickens I'm guessing and the spaced out nuts on your back guard. From Terry, in Australia :-)
Hi i had a Minilathe until last year i bought a bigger lathe with 265kg and this carriage clamping was the point which I found most wrong designed... the original assembly is to weak... So first i changed the thin cast iron into thicker brass which was better but after a while i was still not satisfied... After thinking and looking for a better alternative i build a new one with a slight taper gib....that worked perfekt with one revolution of the screw holding the gib the space between the gib and the slightly tapered plate changed for 0,01mm.. Knowing that it was very easy to adjust it so that it had no play but still moved... I was very satisfied with that improvement and showed it everybody of my friends having minilathes and 2 of them copied it as well... After that chatter and bad surfaces were banned from the Minilathe as long as you handled it normally... 👍
It amazes me the lengths people will go to try and make a silk purse out of a sows ear! There are dozens of small classic lathes in very good condition for the same price or less than being paid for these badly designed and made Chinese machines. Check out "Home and Workshop Machinary" The carriage on the machine shown here is too narrow in terms of its length and engagement with the bedways.
Hi, a tip to screw in a piece of threaded, screw 2 m6 nuts on top an put some tork on them so they will hold tight to the headless bolt (sorry I'm Dutch) then you don't damage the thread. and still can use force to screw them in. If it's fermly in, turn the bottom nut clockwise and the 2 nuts spring loose The same goes for removing thread that is very tight in a screw hole. Kind regards Hans
have to send you a pic Steve my carriage is scollped out in the middle so don't have 6mm hole's in the centre of the ways ... going to have to rethink doing this mod but up for the challenge
Steve, as usual a very good, instructive video, I am sure that when I get more proficient, I maybe able to improve my Myford ML4 a little bit to. many regards Colin.
You might consider selling that setup as a kit. I'm pretty sure I'd buy it. My carriage is fairly loose, even after tightening everything as best as possible it can still rotate 0.025". I suppose everything would have to be fine tuned to each individual lathe however... May be harder to manage than I was thinking.
Thankyou Steve. One thing that does puzzle me about this upgrade though is why use steel against steel. Maybe I'm mistaken but I assumed that the piont of using the brass strips was to take the wear though I recognise that it should be minimal anyway on the undersides. Did I misunderstand this. Lovely work and great how to demo, thankyou.
The first carriage stop I made for mine, I used two pieces of metal in the centre of the ways too. Lol I've since made one to fit on top of the V way.Excellent job Steve,....I must get around to making that tool post rotate easily, think that you did a video on that??
Tip for fastening studs without damaging the threads: lock two nuts together. Thank you for the tips by the way. You could get to the point a little bit earlier in de video: the first minute and a half you were just beating around the bush ;)
Hello from the guys on the outher side of the globe. (Montréal Quebec Canada!) Found your channel from the @UCgye4RmWOR8AmleinMxgbYw channel and your mod is surely the first thing I will do to mine when it gets here. If anyone have a good provider for those nice little machine let me know. I know they are not equal and some are worst then the other. As a new guy in machining stuff it wont be a bad deision to pay some extra to start with a not too bad bed. Nice trick with the valve grinding paste.
Nice mods. Nice finish on the cut. Is that with the original ball bearings? I have mine apart right now to convert to tapered roller bearings. Mine cuts nice but going to tapered bearings. I bored out my tailstock to take slightly larger pieces, larger chuck, balanced the chuck to remove all vibrations. Modded tailstock. Scored gears to lower my feed rate. Most people with a 36" lathe only uses the first foot. Thats why the first foot of lathe ways are worn down. You never use the other 2 foot of ways.
Hi Thanks, I changed to tapered roller bearings a while back although I did use the original bearings for some time. You have done some good upgrades. It really does pay off on these machines.
PRO TIP +Steve Jordan To install the STUDS you DON'T use Emery cloth and Pliers!! LOL YOU USE 2 NUTS together on the end but then you ONLY use a wrench on the TOP-MOST nut which will cause the nuts to lock together w the thread and you can then tighten the Stud as much as you need. Then you use 2 Wrenches, one on each nut to Break them loose, and easily remove them w your fingers. To REMOVE the Studs you also use 2 NUTS but this time you use a Wrench on the LOWER nut and unscrew until it locks w the upper nut and the thread Then you can remove the Stud. then finally you use 2 Wrenches, one on each nut and break them loose of the stud! and VIOLA.
Hi you can use whatever method you like...LOL....it doesn't make any difference on this particular job, as most of the thread doesn't get used....I did it like this for a quick method to keep the video short, rather than showing other screw-stud installation methods..... Lengthening the videos, I think, would be nuts for the viewers....:)
Great video and very well made. Have You noticed any problem with the rear middle plate screw loosening because of vibrations? Also using it for locking the carriage is just brilliant.
I bought mine from a company called arceurotrade UK many years ago. They probably still sell them and are generally easy to get hold of from various companies online. Regards Steve
I've been looking for a more reliable way to stabilise the carriage and this is a really nice mod. Unfortunately many of these Chinese mini lathes have a H shaped saddle so there is no place to attach the new plates to. Also, on my lathe at least, I know that the underside of the bed is not parallel to the ways. Not too big an issue for the tail stock locking mechanism but would require some grinding to make this modification work. BTW, you still sound pretty good at 2x ;)
Hi Steve! I enjoy yuor videos very much, specially the way of your teaching. I'm 66. Some years ego went retire. On last Christmas I've got a new SIEG SC4 lathe. From that time my favourite pastime is doing something in my shop. In your videos the QCTP is not familier for me. So many types are recomended to mini lathes (Shars AXA,OXA, A2Z ........) My SIEG SC4 has 210mm (about 8") swing above the bed and M12 thead size on cross slide for the stud. Please give me the type of your QCTP and where I can get it. Thanks a lot. László Lendl from Hungary. By the way I also had worked for aviation more than 30 years.
Very informative video! Thank you! Can you share the tolerance this lathe has working with hard material like steel :D I got a used Chinese lathe which creates unacceptable tolerance working with material like cast iron or steel. I gave up using it for a long time as im disappointed cause I bought it to work with said materials, but the thought that you are able to upgrade it give me hope again :D Nice chicks btw haha
i have never seen a piece of steel being cut like that on that particular lathe model that's F'n impressive, SJ! Damn good job 3 JAW EVEN! holy smokes! with all that you've done to that machine,, when do you stop calling it a Chinese mini-lathe and start referring to it as a JORDAN?
Hi Steve - love your videos & have learned a huge amount from them. Thank you so much for all your time & effort in making them & your generosity in sharing your knowledge. One question on this video: please could you elaborate a little for a beginner on the process you describe as “I worked out the shim I needed” under the saddle plates? Thanks, Ian.
Hi Ian, Thanks for your encouraging feedback. What I did was put a thin shim in first and tighten up. If it locks the carriage on tightening, then loosen and add thicker shim. Tighten again and see if it locks the carriage or tightens it making it too tight to move. Keep doing this, just adding or putting in thicker shim until it suddenly becomes smooth to operate, so at one time it maybe tight, but by adding say .002" thou thick shim, it will suddenly be right. (Smooth movement). Having done this method one will the know that there is he minimal amount of clearance, between the saddle plates and the underside of the ways, or lathe bed, thus giving maximum rigidity. It sometimes takes a bit of time as there maybe some difference on the thickness of the lathe bed over its length, but you will have to strike the best possible outcome. Mine is a very slightly tight towards the back half of the lathe, but ok at the front half where most machining is done, so I left it at that and it is fine. ....Hope this helps....Regards Steve
A lot of work but you explain well. Just drives me nuts though with all the metric fitting and plate dimensions. I loaned a jig I made to drill and tap and it seem to never get returned so I guess I need to create again after watching you.
@@SteveJordan thanks, I will do this upgrade too. But in fact the overall tolerance is leading for perfect results in making parts, therefore the next improvement would be to make perfect anti-backlash nuts to eleminate play.
Hi steve I think i have watched all your videos and yougot me started on the mini lathe I haven't touched a lathe for nearly 45 years can you tell me how you worked ouy the shim thickness to put on the saddle plate thank you
Hi Frank, Thanks. I inserted a certain thickness of shim, then tightened the allen bolts and tested to see if the carriage locked up and was unable to move. I then added shim thickness of about .005"/.010" thou and repeated the process until the carriage would move freely with the minimum amount of added shim. Then I measured the total thickness and cut a piece of single brass plate that equaled the shim and fitted that in. It took a bit of time, because I found the lathe ways to be slightly uneven, so it could be just right at the front, but when towards the back of the lathe, the carriage could be tight. Obviously you need to make sure its not overly tight as that puts strain on the lathe carriage travel mechanisms. You can also find the nearest shim like this, and if it tightens just a bit too much, just back the front allen bolt off by a 1/4 of a turn and use the lathe for several weeks. Over time it runs in a bit and you can gradually tighten the front bolt up fully. The back allen bolt is just tightened by feel as I use this one to lock the carriage. After locking I can just release by a 1/4 turn. I didn't think of it at the time, but you may be able to lock the front bolt up without any shim and get a rough idea of the thickness needed using feeler gauges in the middle gap? Regards Steve
@@SteveJordan thank you for the quick reply, i just bought the 7x14 mini lathe and i am doing most of the mods you have done. What i used to do in 1/2 hour now takes me a couple of days but at least its got me moving.
Hi I just reduced the thickness until there was hardly any up and down movement. It took quite a bit of trial and error to get right though. Regards Steve
any problems with the nut for the carriage? I noticed you cleaned up the clearance and had adjustment for the back of the carriage, however, clearance seemed to be rigid for front. Any ideas for adding grub screws to the front to take up that slack? Great job overall btw... =D
Hi Steve very impressed with this video, I will be looking at my Chester 9-20 lathe to do these modifications, it's very important to have a rigid carriage especially when parting off as we all soon find out, do you have names for your chickens?
Hi Grahame, I must admit that I rarely part-off on any of my lathes, except for brass. Mainly because I haven't set up coolant yet. I still rely on the old hacksaw! ....Thanks for watching....Regards Steve
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By far the best carriage upgrade that I have seen for the 7X mini lathe. Very thorough explanation. I appreciate the time spent filming, editing and uploading this information.
Hi Hans, Thanks for watching and your encouraging comments....Regards Steve
Hans Schmidt - Just saved me some writing.
Thanks Steve Jordan. ;-)
Awq
I agree, thanks for all that you do. I know i must take alot longer than we think to make up a video. Ta.
@@SteveJordan Really great job Steve (My name is also Steve). Great ideas, and great, calm, explanations/demonstrations. I really appreciate your style... It's like listening to one of your best friends explaining something to you, rather than listening to some robot instructor you don't know. Thank you so much Steve. Also, is there any chance you could help me with the problem I'm having with my machine? I just bought it preowned (supposedly never used). It's the 7x12 harbor freight, online order only, model. I'm still in the process if figuring it out, but for some reason I can't get consistent cuts. Because of this, I took pretty much everything apart. I cleaned everything up, spent a small amount of time lapping the ways/cross slides etc (very little... Not enough to measurably change any of the tolerances), relubed, and put everything back together, making sure everything was adjusted. But still, when making a a cut across the length of a 4 inch or so long piece of material, I get inconsistencies, as though something is still loose. (Please forgive my lack of knowledge rearding terminology) I've got both of the cross slides (left/right, forward/backward adjusted super tight, to the point to where it's even miserable to advance either one of them, but still I'll get deviations of several thou. of an inch on the diameter of my material over a couple inch section.
Please help. I bought this lathe for the specific purpose of making a rear axle for an ebike I build for a friend. An axle that is far back ordered, with no other possible sources, and he is very anxious to get his bike going.
Thanks so much
Steve
This was beautiful to watch and listen to. Thank you very much.
Thanks Steve, I've just recently joined the ranks of mini lathe owners and your videos are excellent education for me.
It is always a pleasure to watch a thinking craftsman working, and presenting a very informative, well-made video. Thank you, Steve.
Nice Job, I have a lathe that has a great deal of movement in the carriage and in the cross slide, and I appreciate receiving ideas from those who have figured out how to fix these kinds of problems. Once again, Good Job!
That looks like a great upgrade, and the weight that's added must have made it even better for rigidity, brilliant!
I love the way you mount the rear splash guard. Very convenient and certainly something I will make myself!
The best method for tightening studs is to thread two nuts onto the stud and then tighten them up against each other. You can then use the nut on the opposite side of the direction you want the stud to be driven to turn it in. The nuts lock together allowing you to apply a lot of torque to the stud and once you're done, you release the lower one [on the side of the part that is was inserted into and then simply spin bot off. Saves damage to the thread and allows far more torque to be applied to the stud than the pliers method. Has the added advantage that if needed you can torque them to a specified value with a torque wrench.
Looks like a nice mod, might have to give it a whirl as parting on my CJ18 is a fraught affair.
Keep up the great vids!
Hi Thanks Yes that is the best method really. Thanks for watching.....Regards Steve
That's a valuable improvement to the stability of the saddle
With all these awesome mods you’re making, I’ll never get out of my shop! Perfect!
Thank you for the time you spent on this; a lathe like that is about all I have room to house and it's comforting to know there are meaningful upgrades for them.
Wow. I always suspected these saddle pieces were the weak link in the carriage. Thanks for doing all the leg work on this. You CLEARLY are both dedicated & competent. Great work on those upgrades!
Steve, thanks for that! My lathe is a twin to yours, without the very nice makeover. I've been slowly making modifications along the lines you have, but I was a long way behind where you were. No more after this video! The solidity of the carriage and the carriage lock is just awesome! Thank you for that video, you have given me a great project to start immediately!
+David Kennedy Hi David thanks for watching. I may not have any more Mini Lathe upgrades but I hope to show more tools to use on it and work holding fixtures etc....Regards Steve
Hi Steve, I’m new to machining, so your videos have been extremely helpful. I just purchased a new Sieg SC3 7” x 16” lathe with 500W brushless motor, and completed my first cut on steel. Suffice to say it was not pretty! I had massive tool chatter from excessive play in the lathe. I actually saw the tool move when in came into contact with the steel! This modification will be one of the first things I do to the lathe, so I can get some half decent cuts. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge.
Hi Greg, You should be able to machine ok with the lathe from new. Many people when they first get a lathe and start machining tend to make the mistake of taking too deeper cuts. Also when cutting steel I only use carbide insert tools such as the ones that take the 070204 inserts. If you have this tool set on center height, the lathe gibs correctly adjusted on the saddle and cross-slide and only take .010" cuts (,020" overall) you should get good finishes on stainless steel. Obviously you can take deeper cuts on softer materials.
The upgrade does make the lathe much better especially for milling, but it is still best to use the machine as I have mentioned above. I say this because there are people that try to claim that they can take massive cuts with this lathe. Or they say that they part-off steel. This generally isn't possible with the standard compound slide and the fact that the lathe doesn't have a coolant system anyway. I do all 'parting-off' off of the lathe, in the bench vice with a hack-saw then finish face on the lathe, except when machining brass or plastics!
This lathe is a great machine and I have made hundreds of great components using it, but that is because I know not to try and use it as a much more expensive heavy duty machine. Thanks for watching...Regards Steve
Steve Jordan
Hi Steve, thanks for the reply. To be fair, the first cut I did, the lathe was in ‘as delivered’ condition. I was certainly not making deep cuts, 0.002” was all. I spent some time today cleaning up the lathe, adjusting both the gibs, adjusting saddle, lapping, lubing etc and have now removed nearly all the play. Now when I push/pull on the toolpost there is no discernible movement which is great. It’s now making decent cuts with just the cheap carbide tipped tools.
I really must do this carriage mod. The carriage is pretty chattery as it is. Thanks for sharing Steve...
So glad I found your video's Steve as I've just purchased a mini lathe and I've never used one before so hopefully I'll get the basics sorted and then have a go at making some of your great modifications
Hi Steve Great that you have bought a Mini Lathe. I had mine about a year before I did any modifications. They are usually ok from new as long as you check the gib strip adjustment regularly.
Also don't be tempted to make massive cuts like people say they do. I only take .010" cuts (.020" overall) maximum on most turning operations, even on my Myford lathe now. Also I do not use a parting off tool except on brass as I do not have coolant. I just use a vice and hacksaw to cut bar or components off then face to length on the lathe. I say this as many people have tool breakages which can be quite off-putting when starting machining, especially with part-off tools. Hope you get on well......Thanks for watching.....Regards Steve
Steve Jordan thanks for your reply , have you done a video on how to cut threads using the mini lathe as I've watch quite a few and still don't understand it but I assume it's because the Ines I've watched are on bigger more professional lathes.... thanks
Absolutely brilliant work! Thanks for sharing.
Another great mod Steve the lathe had no problems with steel it was machining, thanks for sharing.
Hi Robert, Thanks for watching....Regards Steve
You've inspired me to look at my mini lathe, it suffers from too much play in the carriage. Thanks Peter
Hi Peter....Thanks for watching....Regards Steve
I really do need to get a couple of chickens! We used to have some when we lived in Bolton 15 years ago and I found they take all the tension and stress out of your life, I could sit and watch them for hours. We live in Norfolk now with big gardens so it is ideal...
Yes the chickens are really nice to keep. They all have their own individual character. It is very relaxing watching them. The eggs are exellent as well, so much better than shop ones.
mmmmmm ... I forgot about the eggs, they are fantastic. I used to go to my local fishing tackle shop every now and then and buy a tub of maggots, put the tub down and listen to them 'chirp' in delight, all their birthdays have come at once...
very nice and rigid upgrade there. i like it so much .I think i will go for it for mine .thanks Steve for sharing with us.
Hi Al.....Thanks for watching....Regards Steve
Great video Mr. Lawrence Welk
I agree with you, that is a quite nice upgrade. And I like your ingenuity on the fasteners for the back plate. You have the alignment length but you don't have to thread the nut all the way down. Good one Steve.
Hi Glenn....Thanks....Regards Steve
I just did this up grade and it works great..thank u
Nice job Steve. Very professional. After I get done building my CNC machine, I'm thinking about setting up a mini lathe.
Thank you so much for this video. It is exactly what I need to do to my new Chinese mini lathe, I will also be using your compound slide locking screws to improve that.
Thanks for watching and thanks for your comments.
Thanks for watching and thanks for your comments.
Thanks for watching and thanks for your comments.
I'm kind of at a loss for words that was great your workmanship is unbelievable I wished I had the talent and was able to do that to mine
Yay, I finally get to see the chickens!
I keep hearing them in the background of your videos, so I knew you had a few. :-)
I do need to figure out a good way to attach a shield to the front of the carriage to keep the chips off the bed in front of it when cutting. I don't know if I'm ready to do the full carriage upgrade just yet, I'm still learning to use my 7X10 mini lathe.
Just finished the mods as per your video it is a big improvement thanks for sharing your ideas keep up the good work
+Roger Halcrow Hi Roger Great...Thanks for watching...Regards Steve
Hi Steve you have been recommended to me so I have subscribed. I am new to this and have bought a Super mini lathe.
Hi thanks for subscribing. Great that you have bought a Super mini lathe. I hope to do some new engineering videos soon using mine. Just waiting for some warm weather as I have no heating in the workshop. Regards Steve
Now you've done it. I am tempted to get one of those lathes just so I can upgrade it as you have.
I think I would go with standard metric threads and fasteners in the places where you have used BA.
Also, I am leery of having steel (even mild steel) rubbing up against the cast iron of the bed. One of the advantages of having precision scraped surfaces is that they are not perfectly flat and are instead composed of both slightly low and slightly high surfaces. The lows serve as oil reservoirs that stop the cast iron from wearing quickly. Finely ground surfaces rubbing against each other wear much more quickly than precision scraped surfaces.
My approach would be to mill the mild steel 5 or 10 thousandths too deep and then fill the gap with brazing rod. Then mill the brazing flat and hone to a precise fit. Let the brass soak up the wear and be replaced when necessary... sort of like Turcite.
Have you put tapered bearings into this machine?
Cheers,
Norm Berls
Katy, Texas
Interesting use for old jumper cable clamps !!
Hi, where did you see those?
@@SteveJordan At 22:15- look like old clamps holding the leafy chicken feed.
Oh yes. I forgot this chicken clip was on this video!. 😃
@@SteveJordan Chickens are easy to forget til ya get a rooster learning to crow. At 3, 4 and 5am !!
Nice job, those clamps are also doing a good job holding the egg machines greens
Hi David, Yes the clamps are great....The hens love their greens. Thanks for watching....Regards Steve
Looks like my carriage is coming apart this weekend. Thanks Steve!
Hi Joel, Thanks for watching....Regards Steve
Ah..Oh..
Wish I d seen you videos before I sold my Conquest!
Looked at a much bigger version with 1200 w motor but its not exactly portable.I have a 1910 Drummond ,strange choice perhaps, but seems to have had very little use, instead.
When I m a bit more settled I ll look at the bigger lathes again and suspect your upgrades are going to be useful even on that.
Very good Steve thank you for doing the videos
great video Steve ,always a pleasure to watch.
Hi Ray....Thanks for watching....Regards Steve
Hi Steve - I would like to thank you sincerely for posting such brilliant videos. I am very new to the metal working hobby but I am so enjoying making stuff and your videos not only have some great projects but the manner in which you deliver the content makes me want to get in the workshop and make things. My thanks again and please keep up the excellent work - for me you have one of the best channels. Regards, Jim
+Jim Morrison Hi Jim, I'm pleased you like the videos. I hope to do another one soon. Thanks for watching....Regards Steve
Great improvement. Thank you for sharing
absolutly brilliant idea
Hi Lajos.....Thanks for watching....Regards Steve
Splendid idea! I'm going to think about that middle plate for my machine (an Aussie metric equivalent of the popular American G0602) this weekend.
Thanks for sharing! :)
Hi Adam, Thanks for watching.....Regards Steve
Thanks Steve, God bless your soul. I love the use of valve grinding paste idea, the clamps for clean food for your chickens I'm guessing and the spaced out nuts on your back guard. From Terry, in Australia :-)
Inspired Steve - brilliant job and nice results too. How great to improve the machine so well.
Happy chickens :)
Thanks Chris......Yes chickens are very happy...probably a bit over fed with nice food!! Regards Steve
yes I love the chickens too! thank you for helping everyone make our mini lathes better!
interesting toolpost also.
great idea,will make one cheers
Hi i had a Minilathe until last year i bought a bigger lathe with 265kg and this carriage clamping was the point which I found most wrong designed... the original assembly is to weak... So first i changed the thin cast iron into thicker brass which was better but after a while i was still not satisfied... After thinking and looking for a better alternative i build a new one with a slight taper gib....that worked perfekt with one revolution of the screw holding the gib the space between the gib and the slightly tapered plate changed for 0,01mm.. Knowing that it was very easy to adjust it so that it had no play but still moved... I was very satisfied with that improvement and showed it everybody of my friends having minilathes and 2 of them copied it as well... After that chatter and bad surfaces were banned from the Minilathe as long as you handled it normally... 👍
It amazes me the lengths people will go to try and make a silk purse out of a sows ear!
There are dozens of small classic lathes in very good condition for the same price or less than being paid for these badly designed and made Chinese machines. Check out "Home and Workshop Machinary"
The carriage on the machine shown here is too narrow in terms of its length and engagement with the bedways.
Hi, a tip to screw in a piece of threaded, screw 2 m6 nuts on top an put some tork on them so they will hold tight to the headless bolt (sorry I'm Dutch) then you don't damage the thread. and still can use force to screw them in. If it's fermly in, turn the bottom nut clockwise and the 2 nuts spring loose
The same goes for removing thread that is very tight in a screw hole. Kind regards Hans
Brilliant idea, i like this idea, one machine serve many things.
Love the girls having their greens!
AAR
PS: Great Mod for the lathe!
Hi Albert, They get greens every day if they are available!....Thanks for watching...Regards Steve
have to send you a pic Steve my carriage is scollped out in the middle so don't have 6mm hole's in the centre of the ways ... going to have to rethink doing this mod but up for the challenge
Well done and very well explained
Hi Isidoro....Thanks for watching....Regards Steve
Nice neat & tidy job
Hi....Thanks for watching....Regards Steve
Steve, as usual a very good, instructive video, I am sure that when I get more proficient, I maybe able to improve my Myford ML4 a little bit to.
many regards Colin.
Hi Colin, Great.....Thanks for watching....Regards Steve
nice one steve.
You might consider selling that setup as a kit. I'm pretty sure I'd buy it. My carriage is fairly loose, even after tightening everything as best as possible it can still rotate 0.025". I suppose everything would have to be fine tuned to each individual lathe however... May be harder to manage than I was thinking.
Thankyou Steve. One thing that does puzzle me about this upgrade though is why use steel against steel. Maybe I'm mistaken but I assumed that the piont of using the brass strips was to take the wear though I recognise that it should be minimal anyway on the undersides. Did I misunderstand this. Lovely work and great how to demo, thankyou.
The first carriage stop I made for mine, I used two pieces of metal in the centre of the ways too. Lol I've since made one to fit on top of the V way.Excellent job Steve,....I must get around to making that tool post rotate easily, think that you did a video on that??
+Steve Clark Hi Steve....Thanks for watching....Regards Steve
Hi Steve, instead of s/s stud could you use a s/s flat point grub screw, say M6 x 40mm? then I could use an allen key to tighten it.
Looks a good job.
Nice work
Excellent!
Quality content.... Chickens are happy & so am I.
Hi Thanks for watching.....Regards Steve
Thank you
i watch all your videos,very easy to understand, and very well put together.....keep up the good work......ray
+Ray Falcone Hi Ray...Thanks for watching...Regards Steve
I will try the shim idea that looks amazing. I have a similar rear guard system, but mine is a bit more fiddly... guess I need to upgrade that too 😁
PERFECT!!!!
Nice modification Steve. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Robert....Thanks for watching....Regards Steve
Very nice job. 😎👍
Tip for fastening studs without damaging the threads: lock two nuts together.
Thank you for the tips by the way. You could get to the point a little bit earlier in de video: the first minute and a half you were just beating around the bush ;)
always fun to watch!
Nice improvement. Now the spindle gear, which is sounding like a gravel crusher, needs a work-over
Nice to lettuce see your off sprung dinosaurs.
Hi Steve, best one I have seen yet! chickens love them some greens! :)
+Lawrence Harasim Hi Lawrence thanks. Yes they do love their greens...:) Regards Steve
Hello from the guys on the outher side of the globe. (Montréal Quebec Canada!) Found your channel from the @UCgye4RmWOR8AmleinMxgbYw channel and your mod is surely the first thing I will do to mine when it gets here. If anyone have a good provider for those nice little machine let me know. I know they are not equal and some are worst then the other. As a new guy in machining stuff it wont be a bad deision to pay some extra to start with a not too bad bed. Nice trick with the valve grinding paste.
7.40 wise words steve just cracked the saddle plate on mine bummer ....
Thank you.
Nice mods. Nice finish on the cut. Is that with the original ball bearings? I have mine apart right now to convert to tapered roller bearings. Mine cuts nice but going to tapered bearings. I bored out my tailstock to take slightly larger pieces, larger chuck, balanced the chuck to remove all vibrations. Modded tailstock. Scored gears to lower my feed rate. Most people with a 36" lathe only uses the first foot. Thats why the first foot of lathe ways are worn down. You never use the other 2 foot of ways.
Hi Thanks, I changed to tapered roller bearings a while back although I did use the original bearings for some time. You have done some good upgrades. It really does pay off on these machines.
PRO TIP
+Steve Jordan
To install the STUDS you DON'T use Emery cloth and Pliers!! LOL
YOU USE 2 NUTS together on the end but then you ONLY use a wrench on the TOP-MOST nut which will cause the nuts to lock together w the thread and you can then tighten the Stud as much as you need. Then you use 2 Wrenches, one on each nut to Break them loose, and easily remove them w your fingers.
To REMOVE the Studs you also use 2 NUTS but this time you use a Wrench on the LOWER nut and unscrew until it locks w the upper nut and the thread Then you can remove the Stud.
then finally you use 2 Wrenches, one on each nut and break them loose of the stud!
and VIOLA.
Hi you can use whatever method you like...LOL....it doesn't make any difference on this particular job, as most of the thread doesn't get used....I did it like this for a quick method to keep the video short, rather than showing other screw-stud installation methods..... Lengthening the videos, I think, would be nuts for the viewers....:)
Great video and very well made.
Have You noticed any problem with the rear middle plate screw loosening because of vibrations? Also using it for locking the carriage is just brilliant.
Great videos. I like your carriage handwheel, where can I find one like that? Thanks.
I bought mine from a company called arceurotrade UK many years ago. They probably still sell them and are generally easy to get hold of from various companies online. Regards Steve
The added weight alone should have a positive effect.
Hi Yes it should ....Thanks for watching....Regards Steve
I've been looking for a more reliable way to stabilise the carriage and this is a really nice mod. Unfortunately many of these Chinese mini lathes have a H shaped saddle so there is no place to attach the new plates to. Also, on my lathe at least, I know that the underside of the bed is not parallel to the ways. Not too big an issue for the tail stock locking mechanism but would require some grinding to make this modification work. BTW, you still sound pretty good at 2x ;)
Complimenti, hai delle galline stupende 👍🏿
great video. What you need is another critique by looks of comments section, lol. So here go, upgrade that noisy motor! peace
Hi Steve! I enjoy yuor videos very much, specially the way of your teaching. I'm 66. Some years ego went retire. On last Christmas I've got a new SIEG SC4 lathe. From that time my favourite pastime is doing something in my shop. In your videos the QCTP is not familier for me. So many types are recomended to mini lathes (Shars AXA,OXA, A2Z ........) My SIEG SC4 has 210mm (about 8") swing above the bed and M12 thead size on cross slide for the stud. Please give me the type of your QCTP and where I can get it. Thanks a lot. László Lendl from Hungary. By the way I also had worked for aviation more than 30 years.
Very informative video! Thank you! Can you share the tolerance this lathe has working with hard material like steel :D I got a used Chinese lathe which creates unacceptable tolerance working with material like cast iron or steel. I gave up using it for a long time as im disappointed cause I bought it to work with said materials, but the thought that you are able to upgrade it give me hope again :D
Nice chicks btw haha
i have never seen a piece of steel being cut like that on that particular lathe model
that's F'n impressive, SJ!
Damn good job
3 JAW EVEN!
holy smokes!
with all that you've done to that machine,,
when do you stop calling it a Chinese mini-lathe and start referring to it as a JORDAN?
Hi Atticus.....Thanks for watching.....Regards Steve
Hi Steve - love your videos & have learned a huge amount from them. Thank you so much for all your time & effort in making them & your generosity in sharing your knowledge. One question on this video: please could you elaborate a little for a beginner on the process you describe as “I worked out the shim I needed” under the saddle plates?
Thanks, Ian.
Hi Ian, Thanks for your encouraging feedback.
What I did was put a thin shim in first and tighten up. If it locks the carriage on tightening, then loosen and add thicker shim. Tighten again and see if it locks the carriage or tightens it making it too tight to move. Keep doing this, just adding or putting in thicker shim until it suddenly becomes smooth to operate, so at one time it maybe tight, but by adding say .002" thou thick shim, it will suddenly be right. (Smooth movement).
Having done this method one will the know that there is he minimal amount of clearance, between the saddle plates and the underside of the ways, or lathe bed, thus giving maximum rigidity.
It sometimes takes a bit of time as there maybe some difference on the thickness of the lathe bed over its length, but you will have to strike the best possible outcome.
Mine is a very slightly tight towards the back half of the lathe, but ok at the front half where most machining is done, so I left it at that and it is fine. ....Hope this helps....Regards Steve
Steve Jordan : yes, thank you - that helps a lot. I understand the process now. Please keep these top videos coming!
best regards, Ian
The shims look like made of brass. How, or where, did You get hold of them? Making them Yourself?
What is definition of 2BA screw? Not familiar with the term here in Canada. Other times I believe you have also made reference to 4BA screws. ????
British Association specs, similar to our SAE, or numbered screws such as 10-32.
How do get hold of the shims? They must be precise, exactly what is needed for each situation, each place.
You can make shims out of thin metal like stainless steel or brass. Say .005/.010 thickness.
Do You say buying metall sheets of a few different thicknesses and cut out shims?
Nice work. I had no idea chickens would eat lettuce.
Hi Bruce, Yes they love all types of greens....They even like red grapes!....Thanks for watching...Regards Steve
like your chickens
A lot of work but you explain well. Just drives me nuts though with all the metric fitting and plate dimensions. I loaned a jig I made to drill and tap and it seem to never get returned so I guess I need to create again after watching you.
What do you consider to be mild Steel? Thanks Greg
What material are the shims? Nice fixed carriage!
I just use brass shims cut from thin brass sheet, but any sheet metal will do really.
@@SteveJordan thanks, I will do this upgrade too. But in fact the overall tolerance is leading for perfect results in making parts, therefore the next improvement would be to make perfect anti-backlash nuts to eleminate play.
you've coined a new phrase: "chooks approval"
Hi steve I think i have watched all your videos and yougot me started on the mini lathe I haven't touched a lathe for nearly 45 years can you tell me how you worked ouy the shim thickness to put on the saddle plate thank you
Hi Frank, Thanks. I inserted a certain thickness of shim, then tightened the allen bolts and tested to see if the carriage locked up and was unable to move. I then added shim thickness of about .005"/.010" thou and repeated the process until the carriage would move freely with the minimum amount of added shim. Then I measured the total thickness and cut a piece of single brass plate that equaled the shim and fitted that in.
It took a bit of time, because I found the lathe ways to be slightly uneven, so it could be just right at the front, but when towards the back of the lathe, the carriage could be tight. Obviously you need to make sure its not overly tight as that puts strain on the lathe carriage travel mechanisms.
You can also find the nearest shim like this, and if it tightens just a bit too much, just back the front allen bolt off by a 1/4 of a turn and use the lathe for several weeks. Over time it runs in a bit and you can gradually tighten the front bolt up fully. The back allen bolt is just tightened by feel as I use this one to lock the carriage. After locking I can just release by a 1/4 turn.
I didn't think of it at the time, but you may be able to lock the front bolt up without any shim and get a rough idea of the thickness needed using feeler gauges in the middle gap?
Regards Steve
@@SteveJordan thank you for the quick reply, i just bought the 7x14 mini lathe and i am doing most of the mods you have done. What i used to do in 1/2 hour now takes me a couple of days but at least its got me moving.
How did you work out the shim size
Hi I just reduced the thickness until there was hardly any up and down movement. It took quite a bit of trial and error to get right though. Regards Steve
Is the guard absolutely needed?
Hi, no, not really. It's just better to have one, I think. Regards Steve
any problems with the nut for the carriage?
I noticed you cleaned up the clearance and had adjustment for the back of the carriage, however, clearance seemed to be rigid for front. Any ideas for adding grub screws to the front to take up that slack?
Great job overall btw... =D
Hi Steve very impressed with this video, I will be looking at my Chester 9-20 lathe to do these modifications, it's very important to have a rigid carriage especially when parting off as we all soon find out, do you have names for your chickens?
Hi Grahame, I must admit that I rarely part-off on any of my lathes, except for brass. Mainly because I haven't set up coolant yet. I still rely on the old hacksaw! ....Thanks for watching....Regards Steve