I've made this video in a bit of a hurry, so I've forgot to mention a few things - sorry for that! 1) Printing with the usual temperature, but with a small nozzle will increase the chance of clogging your nozzle - this is why the steady flow is super important. 2) Higher temperature = pla gets liquefied faster, but use common sense and don't go wild with the temps. 3) Printing too close to the surface ( = super thin first layer) can also end up clogging the nozzle. 4) Keep your equipment clean from dust, including your spools. The smaller the nozzle, the higher the chance of getting clogged by dust particles.
Use matter control. It has the option to extrude more material on the bed, also only increase by 5 Degrees, that all I have done on PLA+ Anyway That's why I don't use Curu it is just finically. Matter control can also adjust prints Live.
Great job! Nice result... I'm still staying with my 0.4mm nozzle.. it's take me ages to get good at printing with it, i don't want to start learning all over again how to print with a 0.2 ;)
Thanks! Turns out once you set up your printer and slicer profile for 0.2, it's just like printing with 0.4, unless you want to keep switching - it might get a little bit of a burden that way. :) Personally, I'm sticking with 0.2 for a while, I like all the added detail.
But at the cost of 2x the print time? I TOTALLY get it for smaller details items, but for large print areas the added time cost would be EXCRUCIATING ;) I'm impressed with how easily you can change your nozzle... on the Prusa it's WAY more complicated :(
@@UnexpectedMaker I see. I wasn't aware of that. On the Ender 3 it really is just heating up the hotend so you can pull out the filament and after that, it's like replacing a screw... a very hot screw :) I thought it's pretty much the same on every printer. But on the second thought, the Prusa's moving "print head" part looks complicated compared to the Ender 3, so yeah, I guess it's harder to pick apart when needed.
no matter what i try, i can't get anything through the .2 nozzle. i'm using a sprite extruder. usinb a brass one. when i try to extrude, it shoots out a little bit and clogs. no good
I have a hunch that at this point a resin printer would be faster, more precise and not even that much weaker. Plus you can print all the parts in the same time as printing a single part because of how the exposure mechanism works. Good results tho!!
When I made this video, resin printers affordable to the average guy like me were only wishful thinking. The first sub-$500 machine came out later in that year.
Sadly, it's one of the negative things about changing the nozzle size - you need to adjust your settings accordingly. For this, I keep different profiles in Cura, which I use for slicing.
Sadly, I pretty much alter it all the time slightly - the "screw in" mechanism of the nozzle makes it sure :) This means every time I change the nozzle, I need to re-level, but then there's BLTouch :)
Would slowing the print time with increasing flow work to allow more material to be deposited while decreasing the back pressure in the hotend? Also, those tolerances look extremely satisfying.
First of all, sorry for the slow reply! Now about your question... You need to increase flow a bit anyway otherwise you risk clogging the nozzle - I usually do this together with increased temperature. Most filament manufacturers provide a wide range when it comes to printing temperature like 180-220C, etc. and the higher you crank it up within the range, the more liquefied the filament gets, which in turn yields less back pressure. But in the end it all boils down to experimenting :) Also lately I've started to set a bit smaller line width in Cura (setting it to like 90% of the nozzle size) and to slightly increase the flow and the nozzle temp. These together almost always yield nice flat surfaces and so far I haven't had a clogged nozzle.
I've made this video in a bit of a hurry, so I've forgot to mention a few things - sorry for that!
1) Printing with the usual temperature, but with a small nozzle will increase the chance of clogging your nozzle - this is why the steady flow is super important.
2) Higher temperature = pla gets liquefied faster, but use common sense and don't go wild with the temps.
3) Printing too close to the surface ( = super thin first layer) can also end up clogging the nozzle.
4) Keep your equipment clean from dust, including your spools. The smaller the nozzle, the higher the chance of getting clogged by dust particles.
How thin is it possible to go with a 0.2 nozzle... 0.05m layer height?... taking in mind 0.4 can go as 0.1.
nicely resulted. Thanks
Thanks for watching, glad you like it!
Very nice work and thank you for the great video.
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks for the video!
Nice print, the precision looks spot on.
Nice work
Thank you! Cheers!
Use matter control. It has the option to extrude more material on the bed, also only increase by 5 Degrees, that all I have done on PLA+
Anyway That's why I don't use Curu it is just finically. Matter control can also adjust prints Live.
Great job! Nice result... I'm still staying with my 0.4mm nozzle.. it's take me ages to get good at printing with it, i don't want to start learning all over again how to print with a 0.2 ;)
Thanks! Turns out once you set up your printer and slicer profile for 0.2, it's just like printing with 0.4, unless you want to keep switching - it might get a little bit of a burden that way. :) Personally, I'm sticking with 0.2 for a while, I like all the added detail.
But at the cost of 2x the print time? I TOTALLY get it for smaller details items, but for large print areas the added time cost would be EXCRUCIATING ;)
I'm impressed with how easily you can change your nozzle... on the Prusa it's WAY more complicated :(
@@UnexpectedMaker I see. I wasn't aware of that. On the Ender 3 it really is just heating up the hotend so you can pull out the filament and after that, it's like replacing a screw... a very hot screw :) I thought it's pretty much the same on every printer. But on the second thought, the Prusa's moving "print head" part looks complicated compared to the Ender 3, so yeah, I guess it's harder to pick apart when needed.
no matter what i try, i can't get anything through the .2 nozzle.
i'm using a sprite extruder. usinb a brass one.
when i try to extrude, it shoots out a little bit and clogs. no good
Use a bit higher temperature than normally - I usually print PLA at 200 with .4 nozzles, but I use 205 or even 210 with .2
I have a hunch that at this point a resin printer would be faster, more precise and not even that much weaker. Plus you can print all the parts in the same time as printing a single part because of how the exposure mechanism works.
Good results tho!!
When I made this video, resin printers affordable to the average guy like me were only wishful thinking. The first sub-$500 machine came out later in that year.
@@TheTinkerDad I didn't take that into considderation. Prices have come down allot now but 2 years ago that wasn't the case yet.
hello sir..the setting is auto if change to 0.2mm??or do i have to adjust other setting??
Sadly, it's one of the negative things about changing the nozzle size - you need to adjust your settings accordingly. For this, I keep different profiles in Cura, which I use for slicing.
Interesting but I'm not sure why you'd have problems printing that sized box and detail with a 0.4mm nozzle? What exactly was going so wrong?
yea if that can't be printed on a .4 nozzle something else is wrong with your printer.
Did you alter the gap between the nozzle and the bed for this nozzle?
Sadly, I pretty much alter it all the time slightly - the "screw in" mechanism of the nozzle makes it sure :) This means every time I change the nozzle, I need to re-level, but then there's BLTouch :)
Would slowing the print time with increasing flow work to allow more material to be deposited while decreasing the back pressure in the hotend?
Also, those tolerances look extremely satisfying.
First of all, sorry for the slow reply! Now about your question... You need to increase flow a bit anyway otherwise you risk clogging the nozzle - I usually do this together with increased temperature. Most filament manufacturers provide a wide range when it comes to printing temperature like 180-220C, etc. and the higher you crank it up within the range, the more liquefied the filament gets, which in turn yields less back pressure. But in the end it all boils down to experimenting :) Also lately I've started to set a bit smaller line width in Cura (setting it to like 90% of the nozzle size) and to slightly increase the flow and the nozzle temp. These together almost always yield nice flat surfaces and so far I haven't had a clogged nozzle.
Your printer with this nozzle was to fast, you need slow down speed if You use smaller diameter of nozzle.
Yes, I've found that out later. Learn new things every day, right? :)
Please could you share the case stl for the sonoff.
Hi @Dan Veitch,
Somehow I've missed this comment... Here you go: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2942839
Sorry for the delay!
Whith 0.2mm nozzle its take the doble time of 0.4mm nozzle
Sadly, yea. But sometimes it worth the extra time. :)