PT Cruiser CV Axle Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 22 авг 2024
- I show you step by step how to replace the CV axles on a PT Cruiser, this should cover all years of PT's, there may be minor differences on the turbo models. One of my axles was extremely difficult to remove and so I also show some advanced removal technics.
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Hi Matt. Owner of a 2007 PT Cruiser convertible. Been a subscriber for a few years now. Started hearing grinding and knocking from under the gas pedal. After ruling out the passenger side wheel bearing, I concluded that it was the cv axle. Your step by step video helped me swap out the old with the new in an hour's time. Now she runs quiet and smooth again...
Keep up with the PT videos as there aren't many out there as detailed as yours! Cheers! 👍
Thank you Matt, these are great cars, we've gotta keep 'em going!
Indeed!
Glad YOU think so.
Matt, couldn't believe you actually ripped the inner axel boot in two trying to get the passenger side axel out. Actually with the trans in neutral, and tapping on the metal part attached to the boot,while rotating it, usually produces exellent results. For the real stubborn ones , place a pry bar or large pickle fork on the metal part and SMOKE it towards the outside of the car. I usually
put anti seize on the splines before reassembly, and that cures the problem.
Beautiful
Boy that was a bugger but way to stay with it ! Great job !
Thanks! Yes and I actually have back troubles so in the end I recall this took me 3 or 4 days to complete because it was making me so sore trying to push and pull on things. Luckily this car was really good to me otherwise and this was the only major hurdle I ever had with it.
Great video. Thanks for that.
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.
Hey Matt I just got my 2006 PT and love it but my front end makes noise an a rattle please help me figure out what's wrong your the only guy that I can trust withy new baby😀 Thanks!!
Ava Gates That is likely the control arm bushings, pretty common on these cars, the rear bushings wear out and clunk. Best to just buy the Moog brand total replacement control arms, they come ready to bolt in the car for only $65 a side and it takes about 30-45mins a side to change them out. Best to replace both sides at once. There’s a chance the sway bar end links are worn and clunking as well but the control arms are the more common cause.
@@CarswithNash ok it's coming from the left side also the car pull right when driving..🤦is this going to cost alot to get the parts ?
Ava Gates If it’s pulling as well it may be more serious, you should have someone look at it in person. You’ll at least need a wheel alignment to correct the pulling.
@@CarswithNash Thanks so much for the help !!
@@CarswithNash , it's 2022 and I just bought a right side lower
control arm. Gotta love how they say the rear vertical "may" shear the captive nut loose from its mooring inside the frame rail. Here's their fix, in the likely hood of that happening. Pull back the carpet and underlay. This will expose the dimpled area that will need "only" three cuts. Then you simply peel back and there (sitting in the rust and debris) is the spinning nut. Thankfully mine didn't spin. That's because the last time I changed that control arm (five yrs ago) I used anti size, the book calls for 180 ft lbs torque........try that flat on your back under the car that hates you. Just another fine Chrysler Automobile. In all the time they made this thing, they knew, and the best they could come up with was dimple the floor, where you should cut? Have you done a vid on "How to remove the alternator" from a PT/GT.
What a nightmare that is.
There's a locking ring on the drivers side. According to the manual...
Yes an internal snap ring, as I showed in the video. I have removed more of these axles than I can count, I know what I'm doing.
I would have removed the hub nut and calipers first.Still helpful.
Replaced my driver's side axle and it began to leak ATF fluid and wouldn't stop any helpful knowledge you can spare
It’s normal for some ATF to spill out when you remove the old axle but I’m assuming you mean it has been leaking since you put the new one in, in that case you would need to remove the axle again and change the axle seal. Also make sure there are no defects on the surface where the seal rides on the new axle, I have seen machining defects on them and had to polish them with some fine emery cloth.
Any tips on how to put a new one in
Können Sie empfehlen Medikamente für Furz und Durchfall?
Anyone else see that tool move by its self at @13:00
I moved it with my mind.😉
Spooky , im not wrking on my car mow ,,,
Why didn't you take off the back plate and pry it out from there?
You mean the back cover? I don’t believe that would give me access, I did try pulling the other axle and going through the hole to punch it out but again there’s not enough room to get anything in there.
@@CarswithNash well... I just tried to pop that 'cover' off and it did not go well. I started prying it off and noticed oil leaking out the other side. And now it won't push back in. I will go buy a die grinder and get follow your method, but now I'm worried about what I just did.
So that plate is not a plate; its the race for the differential bearings.
Here I is.
MostlymoparIH Happy Easter Martin!
@@CarswithNash Hey back at cha Thanks.
Rent a CV axle puller at O'Reilly's and save yourselves a LOT of aggravation!
Besides the fact we don’t have O’Reillys in Canada there is not a CV axle tool on the planet that would fit around that aftermarket axle in there, I also don’t believe one would’ve given me the force it took to get this out.
Rip my transmission
Oh? What happened?
Refill axel grease
That would not work because the metal parts are actually worn out, there was tons of slack in that joint.