Thanks for the mention Andy :) Have enjoyed watching your videos on the 900 engine On the output bearing retaining plate bolts, I swear they are made of cheese so heat the case to break down any thread lock used so they come out easy without damage. I also prefer the free float method of assessing the crank pre-load as the book process is time consuming and tends to give exactly the same results anyway. The process is easier if you are stripping an existing engine as you have the original shims that show the shim size difference to give you are correct centre on the crank without referring to the calculation method. Looking forward to watching the rest of the engine come together. Cheers Adam
Am I right in thinking, before you/he (depending on who answers lol) pulled the engine apart there was no preload on the crank because of the width of the gasket? And if shims needed removing, would you just take half off each side and order new shims to suit, or would you have to do the calcs to determine that? Oh,.... hey Andy?...... What kind of grease do you use??? 😀😂
@@bigdaddy741098 Ducati changed the pre-load value a while back (Not sure which year) from 0.15mm to 0.3mm, it may well be that it was in spec with the old pre-load value set from factory. If you have to remove shim width from an existing set up then yes share it between the two shims to keep the crank centralised as per original set up.
@@DesmoWerx thanks for replying. ok excellent, that means my logic was sound and I'm understanding things (learning lol ) correctly. I have a 93 900SS so I'm pretty sure mine is 0.15 preload. Btw I checked out some of your videos, I like your chilled delivery and explanations as well, so I was forced to subscribe 😆😆
Thanks for the rod bearing Tip! Next time, put the cases in the oven at 300-350F, drop the case flat on a sheet of plywood, and the bearings will fall out. The main will probably come out with its carrier. Separate them, and re-install the carrier, and the new bearings. If you're married, wait until the wife's gone shopping to do this, and put some aluminium foil in the oven under the case to catch any drippings.
Excellent video Andy, as an aircraft Technician I appreciate the engineering aspects of the rebuild, nearly as much as I love riding. You are the epitome of a good engineer, diligent and no compromise, if in doubt check it or don’t be afraid to ask someone else with experience! Keep up the good work.
Hi Andy. I have referenced this series of videos a few times while rebuilding my 907ie engine. Ive not only watched your videos but i have enjoyed them and been entertained whilst taking away valuable info. Just wanted to say thankyou. Keep up the good work.
Always great to watch someone rebuilding something and knowing what he's playing at and also giving others free useful info along the way. Great stuff fella.
Spot on Andy. Nice work. I can tell that you have been down this road more than a few times. As someone who has rebuilt machine tool spindles all my life, I can’t find fault in your work. Just to helpful, if you ever need to chill the shafts to make the tight fits easier, to fit, send them up to my house in PEI Canada. I can leave them overnight in my back garden, where it’s-25 C. Wait maybe not a good idea. According to Delbollocks that may cause the shaft to crack because the temperature in your neck of the woods is in the 40 degrees area.
Another enjoyable video. I found the midway Delboy intermission particularly amusing. The guy doesn't seem to understand the difference between material strength and hardness. Delboy - if you're listening - steels are ductile materials. Basically, page 1 of any of Timoshenko's strength of materials or mechanics textbooks would explain it all, but then again I'm sure wiseboy Delboy has never heard of Timoshenko, and confident he's not interested either. Good stuff and you're getting there!
I love how WiseBoy DelBoy lectures the world about not inserting bearings using heat and then proceeds to whack the supposedly fragile (as he refers to them) bearings with a hammer, as opposed to using a simple drawbolt as illustrated in nearly all versions of the Haynes Manuals; eg Figure 9.7 in the Kawasaki ZX7R/ZX9R manual. Good stuff and eagerly awaiting the next instalment.
That made me smile Andy. "These retaining screws are so tight in, we need a laser guided heat torch to get em out. But first ill try the allen key.." "Oh, they just come straight out!!" Lol Really interesting series this. Keep it up.
Cant tell. Some people do it wrong for 40 years. Some bus driver might be doing it right. If you refer to the specific bus driver? I rather ask my wife. She doesn’t have a clue but she has a brain and can think logically two plusses :-)
The Ducati service manual. With respect to the steering column: "Clean all contact surfaces and lubricate with the recommended grease. To fit the outer rings (8) of bearings (6) to the steering tube, use tool (D) part no. 88713.1062; Proceed as follows: - heat the steering tube to 150 °C; " And the main bearings: " Heat up the crankcase half to a temperature between 95 °C and 110 °C. Once the desired temperature is reached, drive the bearing assembly (A) fully inside the crankcase half."
Loving this, I can hardly take a plug out without fretting I’ll break it, and there you are with a blowtorch and hammer inside the crankcase. Top fella
It's great to watch other people work so much less stressful than doing it yourself. It's also great to know delbollocks school of stupid is recognised internationally
Been needed for a long time, an itemised rebuild, good on ya, this series will get you heaps of views! Also shows Ducati engines are not that complicated...... bravo!
Nah, heat and cool is fine. That was a piss take of a self proclaimed expert who spreads engineering falsities all over the RUclips motorcycle community.
@@ANDY5 i use one or the other ,,, never both ,, although 99% its heat , its amazing how things change with a bit of heat . and its a lot easier to find than dry ice.
Coming along nicely!..I noticed in my "fumbling" that Duc tends to assemble "loose" ..I think that is why you had that clutch shaft bearing issue..Should be a happy Duck now...Proper warming on engine start is necessary..until Oil Temp is proper...(great time to install some more Temp. Sensors)..🇺🇸
Great video Andy. It's my understanding that the factory method for the crankshaft, measuring the exact distance from the inside of the bearing to the crankcase edge on each side, ensures that the measurements are available to shim the crank to be centred so that the con rods are centred too. The method you used probably works just fine but it assumes that play measured is equally split between both sides. If one bearing sits slightly further in or out than the other, the play is not centred but skewed; the factory method will account for this.
I did mention that just before the reshoot. My shims have already accounted for the variation but it’s a good point and I will go into it a little more during final assembly.
@@ANDY5 Hi Andy! I have the same question when i watch your video, and i agree with ittia. It's very important. I think it's never equaly split to the both sides. For the next time : when I change the bearings, I heat the casing and I freeze the bearings : you don't need any press and you preserve the case !
Nice work! Toine is a really great guy helping out and sharing his wealth of knowledge. Two things I had a think about. Haven't had my 900 2V apart, but I've had apart the bigger siblings with 4V a few times. Measuring the crank preload by assembling the case with crank is the simplest method. On the bigger ones you have a fillet radius between the crank web preload surface and the shafts. Hence, using thinner shims than required is a must for the measurement to work out. Otherwise it's just the fillet touching the bearings and not the actual preload surface on the crank web. On the other hand, looks like the old 2Vs have such thin shims (sometimes stacked) that I suppose the fillet is to small to cause a measurement fault? The gearbox shafts end float isn't really a problem either. You're tightening up the input shaft against the clutch side (with the clutch drum nut) and output shaft against the chain side by the chain sprocket nut and spacer/bushing behind it. It's the alignment of the shafts that's important to get gear selection working. The alignment is decided by the shims that's against the larger bearings. Again, here the 0.30mm reduction probably isn't causing gearbox issues. But, run through the gears to before sealing the cases up and doing final assembly. Great videos! Love the Delboi stuff 👌
All crankshafts have a fillet radius, but size does vary depending on design loads. The bearings have a radius that accommodates this. All mountings on all shafts, gearbox and crank, seat against a shoulder or taper and not the cases. The end float and preload work in isolation to everything else. Thanks for watching mate, and for taking an interest.
@@ANDY5 Obviously there's fillets. But, the 2V 900 crank seem to have a smaller fillet than the radius on the bearings inner race. That is not the case on the later Duc engines. The radius is much greater and the shims equally so. Never mind, it was just a thing I noticed.
Good work, Andy. Enjoyable to watch you go carefully through the process. I’ll keep my fingers crossed that you haven’t thermally shocked those bearings... 😂👍
andy you have the patience of a saint and turn out really great vids! how the heck ducati get such huge power from some engines is a mystery ill never figure out. 209bhp from 2 pots is incredible. anyway, looking forward to the next instalment.
And the to realise we took 209 HP out of a 2006 999F06 factory engine 😊😊 all running on full 1199 panigale electronics with ride by wire, Traction control, and riding modes like the road 1199 has ..
You also should check the gearbox action though all the gears, and check the mesh by looking through the cylinder holes (have to do this with the crank out).
Thanks Del now I know that going from the Sauna to the cold plunge pool, is the reason why I keep losing my bearings. Now I just need to figure out what happens with the missing gear teeth ?
Interesting, had a left crankshaft side case bearing give up on me at about 24,000 miles, replaced the bearing, then rechecked preload on the cases at .007 in, or .002755mm, had someone say .001 mm is fine suggesting less preload is better for water cooled bikes 748-998 perhaps, not so much for air cooled then?
I like it before I start watching so I Don't forget lol. Oh and don't worry about the videos being too long, I would watch it all if you just set a camera up and filmed it all, no editing required 😁😀 plus we have ff if you go to lunch 😂🤣 but seriously, I will have to do this at some stage so the more times I get to see things come apart and back together the better lmao. I'm actually thinking of trying to source a scrap one, but hopefully as complete as possible to practice on. See how many spare parts I have left the first time I put it back together 😀 Looking forward to the next one 👊👍
@@ANDY5 oh I know Andy, not from personal experience, but a few other channels I watch have explained and shown a bit about what it takes behind the scenes just to get it ready, then there's the uploading which can be a nightmare as well lol. That's why I appreciate small channels like yours so much, problem is the only way I can show support atm is by watching the adds and likes, but I don't remember seeing many adds in your videos, if any at all.
@@ANDY5 so I was replying to the Desmo dude a bit earlier and having a look through my manual, which does state differences with later models, like the cases being changed and different bolt lengths from 96 on etc. My book says nothing about the crank preload being different on your model, it still shows 0.15 not 0.3mm. I'm of course not telling you that you or your other info is wrong, I remember you saying you also have a manual which may be more up to date than mine, please let me know if it is, and you also have experts helping you, I just wanted to let you know in case it's relevant and important info so you can double check if needed, if our books are the same it's on page G32. I'm learning so much from you the manual is actually starting to make sense lol. It does say to add 0.3 but that's for the gasket, as you know, but it then definitely says add 0.15 for preload. Sorry for repeating myself but I just wanted to triple check before I sent anything. Anyway I feel like I have at least tried to help lmao. Cheers Andy
was that Tubweena asking the obvious questions? Nice vid Andy, good to see someone doing things properly, and not too proud (stupid) to ask questions. Thats the way I was taught... if in doubt, ask! Measure twice cut once, and always towards your mate!!
I suppose you could if you directly applied a flame to them. But they are happy functioning in a crankcase covered in hot oil at 90 degrees Celsius, so any radiant heat they were exposed to here is of no issue.
Loving this series Andy thou there seems to be some cross contamination going on when you were installing those new bearings, maybe it's some new virus or something.
The bearings do not appear to be taper roller bearings, which as i understand require pre loading, yours are ball bearings, not sure you need too check preload, crankshaft end float for sure.
Im taking pedantism to the extreme here but its worth mentioning here about the bearing retaining circlips and the fact that many (not all) technically have a "right" and a "wrong way" to be installed due to manufacture! This point is often overlooked and rarely mentioned but it becomes plainly obvious once you actually have a closer look.
Yes they are stamped so have a small radius on one side, I instinctively look for it but rarely mention it. I have a suspicion that I have mentioned it in another video somewhere, god knows when. Thanks mate.
@@ANDY5 Old mate way back in the day learned the hard way after reassembling is TM125 Suzuki forks. The damper valve is retained by circlips. Add a very fast and high jump, nek minnit front wheel and sliders dangling off the brake cable............... then landing...... He still bears scars from that faceplant...
It does if you do it correctly, but it’s a lot of mucking about. If you would like to see the process done properly have a look here ruclips.net/video/QsNXBEUKwuc/видео.html
@@ANDY5 I would put money on the fact that if you hadn't read that account of measuring the end float, you would have done it the way you (or anyone else would) dit it.
After watching Delnob, I am afraid to start any of my 7 internal combustion engines. Several of the engine components are exposed to fire on one side and cold coolant on the other, not to mention the parts that have fire on one side and oil on the other. And yet other parts are both compressed and scratched repeatedly. Sounds like terribly destructive situation. Then their is that series of BMW transmissions that will not come apart or go back together without putting heat on the outside of the case trying to do it any other way will result in broken transmissions case every time.
Andy mate, I'm disappointed....not only have you spent all my Patreon money on lovely new bearings for the Duke, but you then failed to install them as advised by the well known expert, Dullboy...... ....glad to see it all coming together nicely :)
First off,my only gripe .please remove "I am an idiot" in your title😁,that would be false,you are a well honed tradie with a wide knowledge and is appreciated..Now after watching many of your videos(the 900ss is brilliant series btw) this delboy you speak of with great affection🤣is a special kind of stupid isnt he which got me thinking about "thermal shock"...should I feel bad about all the "geograph" bushes I have thermally shocke d by lowering them into liquid nitrogen at -173 degrees cel then into heated boss of a couple of hundred degrees cel above 0..and believe this they never broke with all the loading that was applied to the pivot of a 600 odd tonne mining excavator...so Is it possible this delboy is a dildo?..in disguise..as usual I love your vids Andy and so does my partner,She gladly sits and watches "Andys" with me and we both think you are a "good bloke"..love your work
would be interesting to see how much heat is required to anneal the bearing as del said. my father was in engineering and would tell us sometimes about a huge bearing that was heated to fit on a shaft, you only get one go hed say.
@@philtreadgold3853 as a blacksmith by trade. i can tell you that the annealing process for steel, is to heat till red hot and cool slowly, even in air it will still be hard. for aluminium, rub a bar of soap on the part, heat ill the soap turns black , then quench in water, copper heat till cherry red then quench in water
ANDY I LOVE YOUR VEDIOS THANK YOU BUT I DO BELIEVE YOUR MAIN BEARINGS ARE GOING TO FAIL!!! THOSE 2 SHIMS ARE THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THE ENGINE! I DONT THINK YOUSEATED THEM QUITE RIGHT OR SHIMED THEM RIGHT I HAVE BEEN THERE WITH SS 900S THOSE BEARINGS MUST BE PERFECTLY FLUSH WITH THE HOUSEING AND MEARSURED GREAT BUILD GREAT SHOW I WISH YOU THE BEST !!!
Im just about to do this. Certainly on my M900 1995 the bearing will definitely NOT be flush. The retaining ring measures a depth of around 16.3mm and the bearing is 17mm so its going to be proud . And , yes I did avoid the small radius on the inside corner of the retaining ring.
how to ruin your interfearance fit by not heating the casing and knocking out the bearing. heat the case to 180 and the bearings will fall out on their own, job done.
After all that work and $$$$$$$ hope you ride the shit out of your 900 !!!! The bearings on my 900ss were still working at 190.000 miles put a crank bearing in along with a ebay transmission at 195.000 😎😎😎😎😎🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺
Andy's Motorcycle Obsessions ,, damn , well at least you made the perfect 100 before the penny dropped 😜 Ya got those creepy pictures at work because they’re not allowed in the house hey?
Penny dropped? I see what you did there 😂 Oh contraire my dear Minxy, we actually had those hanging along side of the stairs between the mid level and lounge/kitchen at home. We’re a little weird like that.
Del cannot take constructive criticism and will delete all posts that are not posts licking his arse. del is the guy who hardens screwdrivers to use as chisels, mars a perfectly good steering stem removing the bearings, advocates using engine oil designed for cars ( with anti friction additives) for bike engines with wet clutches
@@BigBadLoneWolf I seem to remember he also did a video explaining describing a synchromesh gearbox in a bandit, changing head and wheel bearings and renewing clutch plates doesn’t make him a mechanic, and he clearly has NO clue about engines apart from what can be bolted on and off.
Thanks for the mention Andy :)
Have enjoyed watching your videos on the 900 engine
On the output bearing retaining plate bolts, I swear they are made of cheese so heat the case to break down any thread lock used so they come out easy without damage.
I also prefer the free float method of assessing the crank pre-load as the book process is time consuming and tends to give exactly the same results anyway.
The process is easier if you are stripping an existing engine as you have the original shims that show the shim size difference to give you are correct centre on the crank without referring to the calculation method.
Looking forward to watching the rest of the engine come together.
Cheers
Adam
Cheers Adam, great!! Another Ducati master watching me fumble 😂 I have enjoyed your Thunderbike and 916 series particularly.
Great video's Andy & Adam. I enjoy watching both your RUclips channels.. keep up the good work!!!😍
Am I right in thinking, before you/he (depending on who answers lol) pulled the engine apart there was no preload on the crank because of the width of the gasket? And if shims needed removing, would you just take half off each side and order new shims to suit, or would you have to do the calcs to determine that?
Oh,.... hey Andy?...... What kind of grease do you use??? 😀😂
@@bigdaddy741098 Ducati changed the pre-load value a while back (Not sure which year) from 0.15mm to 0.3mm, it may well be that it was in spec with the old pre-load value set from factory.
If you have to remove shim width from an existing set up then yes share it between the two shims to keep the crank centralised as per original set up.
@@DesmoWerx thanks for replying. ok excellent, that means my logic was sound and I'm understanding things (learning lol ) correctly. I have a 93 900SS so I'm pretty sure mine is 0.15 preload. Btw I checked out some of your videos, I like your chilled delivery and explanations as well, so I was forced to subscribe 😆😆
Thanks for the rod bearing Tip!
Next time, put the cases in the oven at 300-350F, drop the case flat on a sheet of plywood, and the bearings will fall out. The main will probably come out with its carrier. Separate them, and re-install the carrier, and the new bearings. If you're married, wait until the wife's gone shopping to do this, and put some aluminium foil in the oven under the case to catch any drippings.
Excellent video Andy, as an aircraft Technician I appreciate the engineering aspects of the rebuild, nearly as much as I love riding. You are the epitome of a good engineer, diligent and no compromise, if in doubt check it or don’t be afraid to ask someone else with experience! Keep up the good work.
Hi Andy. I have referenced this series of videos a few times while rebuilding my 907ie engine. Ive not only watched your videos but i have enjoyed them and been entertained whilst taking away valuable info. Just wanted to say thankyou. Keep up the good work.
Thanks mate
Always great to watch someone rebuilding something and knowing what he's playing at and also giving others free useful info along the way. Great stuff fella.
Spot on Andy. Nice work. I can tell that you have been down this road more than a few times. As someone who has rebuilt machine tool spindles all my life, I can’t find fault in your work. Just to helpful, if you ever need to chill the shafts to make the tight fits easier, to fit, send them up to my house in PEI Canada. I can leave them overnight in my back garden, where it’s-25 C. Wait maybe not a good idea. According to Delbollocks that may cause the shaft to crack because the temperature in your neck of the woods is in the 40 degrees area.
It took me a while to grasp preload measured by length. I was used to torque measurements. Finally got it....Thanks!
Another enjoyable video. I found the midway Delboy intermission particularly amusing. The guy doesn't seem to understand the difference between material strength and hardness. Delboy - if you're listening - steels are ductile materials. Basically, page 1 of any of Timoshenko's strength of materials or mechanics textbooks would explain it all, but then again I'm sure wiseboy Delboy has never heard of Timoshenko, and confident he's not interested either.
Good stuff and you're getting there!
I love how WiseBoy DelBoy lectures the world about not inserting bearings using heat and then proceeds to whack the supposedly fragile (as he refers to them) bearings with a hammer, as opposed to using a simple drawbolt as illustrated in nearly all versions of the Haynes Manuals; eg Figure 9.7 in the Kawasaki ZX7R/ZX9R manual. Good stuff and eagerly awaiting the next instalment.
That made me smile Andy.
"These retaining screws are so tight in, we need a laser guided heat torch to get em out. But first ill try the allen key.." "Oh, they just come straight out!!" Lol
Really interesting series this. Keep it up.
Who's advice would you take, for installing bearings ?. A man with 40 + years experience in eng , or a Bus driver ?
Bus driver?? 🤣
A narcissistic bald bus driver.
Is he a bus Driver? I thought he was a engineering god ! Lol he certainly thinks he’s a god.
Cant tell. Some people do it wrong for 40 years. Some bus driver might be doing it right. If you refer to the specific bus driver? I rather ask my wife. She doesn’t have a clue but she has a brain and can think logically two plusses :-)
The Ducati service manual. With respect to the steering column:
"Clean all contact surfaces and lubricate with the recommended grease. To fit the outer rings (8) of bearings (6) to the steering tube, use tool (D) part no. 88713.1062; Proceed as follows:
- heat the steering tube to 150 °C; "
And the main bearings:
" Heat up the crankcase half to a temperature between 95 °C and 110 °C. Once the desired temperature is reached, drive the bearing assembly (A) fully inside the crankcase half."
Finally.......someone that doesn’t hammer bearings in!!!!!!
Loving this, I can hardly take a plug out without fretting I’ll break it, and there you are with a blowtorch and hammer inside the crankcase. Top fella
It's great to watch other people work so much less stressful than doing it yourself. It's also great to know delbollocks school of stupid is recognised internationally
Delboy = Wiseboy
Great job Andy, nice to see how thorough you have to be assemblin engines. 👍🏻
Expertly done Andy! Great work!
Been needed for a long time, an itemised rebuild, good on ya, this series will get you heaps of views! Also shows Ducati engines are not that complicated...... bravo!
Compulsive viewing Andy can't wait till the next episode.
Hi, please supply all the bearing part numbers. Thanks
Good work mate
That engine is going to be built to a much higher standard than the factory ever managed! Can’t wait for the next video!!
Great help all these video"s. Best regards from The Netherlands!
Great vid Andy so easy to watch. Delbollx the gift that keeps on giving.
Excellent , great watching you work through the problems Andy its going to be a cracking bike when its finished.
great video , well explained, I totally agree , either heat or cool , but never both.
Nah, heat and cool is fine. That was a piss take of a self proclaimed expert who spreads engineering falsities all over the RUclips motorcycle community.
@@ANDY5
i use one or the other ,,, never both ,, although 99% its heat , its amazing how things change with a bit of heat . and its a lot easier to find than dry ice.
Coming along nicely!..I noticed in my "fumbling" that Duc tends to assemble "loose" ..I think that is why you had that clutch shaft bearing issue..Should be a happy Duck now...Proper warming on engine start is necessary..until Oil Temp is proper...(great time to install some more Temp. Sensors)..🇺🇸
Great series Andy great viewing keep up the good work.
Great video Andy. It's my understanding that the factory method for the crankshaft, measuring the exact distance from the inside of the bearing to the crankcase edge on each side, ensures that the measurements are available to shim the crank to be centred so that the con rods are centred too. The method you used probably works just fine but it assumes that play measured is equally split between both sides. If one bearing sits slightly further in or out than the other, the play is not centred but skewed; the factory method will account for this.
I did mention that just before the reshoot. My shims have already accounted for the variation but it’s a good point and I will go into it a little more during final assembly.
@@ANDY5 Hi Andy! I have the same question when i watch your video, and i agree with ittia. It's very important. I think it's never equaly split to the both sides. For the next time : when I change the bearings, I heat the casing and I freeze the bearings : you don't need any press and you preserve the case !
Arrrr. Watching this was better than sliding into a warm bath and playing with my rubber ducky 😘
Nice work! Toine is a really great guy helping out and sharing his wealth of knowledge.
Two things I had a think about. Haven't had my 900 2V apart, but I've had apart the bigger siblings with 4V a few times.
Measuring the crank preload by assembling the case with crank is the simplest method. On the bigger ones you have a fillet radius between the crank web preload surface and the shafts. Hence, using thinner shims than required is a must for the measurement to work out. Otherwise it's just the fillet touching the bearings and not the actual preload surface on the crank web.
On the other hand, looks like the old 2Vs have such thin shims (sometimes stacked) that I suppose the fillet is to small to cause a measurement fault?
The gearbox shafts end float isn't really a problem either. You're tightening up the input shaft against the clutch side (with the clutch drum nut) and output shaft against the chain side by the chain sprocket nut and spacer/bushing behind it. It's the alignment of the shafts that's important to get gear selection working. The alignment is decided by the shims that's against the larger bearings.
Again, here the 0.30mm reduction probably isn't causing gearbox issues. But, run through the gears to before sealing the cases up and doing final assembly.
Great videos! Love the Delboi stuff 👌
All crankshafts have a fillet radius, but size does vary depending on design loads. The bearings have a radius that accommodates this.
All mountings on all shafts, gearbox and crank, seat against a shoulder or taper and not the cases. The end float and preload work in isolation to everything else.
Thanks for watching mate, and for taking an interest.
@@ANDY5 Obviously there's fillets. But, the 2V 900 crank seem to have a smaller fillet than the radius on the bearings inner race. That is not the case on the later Duc engines. The radius is much greater and the shims equally so. Never mind, it was just a thing I noticed.
Yes, good pick up. Obviously the 4V has a higher design load 👍
Glued ! Loving every second .
Good work, Andy. Enjoyable to watch you go carefully through the process. I’ll keep my fingers crossed that you haven’t thermally shocked those bearings... 😂👍
Sitting here with a bacon butty and a mug of tea, waiting for the main feature! ;)
I loved this video. As you say, another step towards the goal. Made to look so easy Andy👊👊
Love these videos. Best wishes to you Andy!
its going to awesome once assembled
I really like a big arbor press for this work
Great video pal proper entertainment
andy you have the patience of a saint and turn out really great vids! how the heck ducati get such huge power from some engines is a mystery ill never figure out. 209bhp from 2 pots is incredible. anyway, looking forward to the next instalment.
And the to realise we took 209 HP out of a 2006 999F06 factory engine 😊😊 all running on full 1199 panigale electronics with ride by wire, Traction control, and riding modes like the road 1199 has ..
nearly had my eye out with that slide hammer ,lol
Loved the Delsplaining insert. 😂 Great video, really enjoyed it..
You also should check the gearbox action though all the gears, and check the mesh by looking through the cylinder holes (have to do this with the crank out).
All false neutrals are where I left them 👍
Loving this Andy slow and steady wins de race 👋😉☘☘☘
Another great vid Andy 👍
Really good video. Cheers
Hi really interesting to watch great videos love the content up the great work
Thanks Del now I know that going from the Sauna to the cold plunge pool, is the reason why I keep losing my bearings.
Now I just need to figure out what happens with the missing gear teeth ?
Interesting, had a left crankshaft side case bearing give up on me at about 24,000 miles, replaced the bearing, then rechecked preload on the cases at .007 in, or .002755mm, had someone say .001 mm is fine suggesting less preload is better for water cooled bikes 748-998 perhaps, not so much for air cooled then?
I like it before I start watching so I Don't forget lol. Oh and don't worry about the videos being too long, I would watch it all if you just set a camera up and filmed it all, no editing required 😁😀 plus we have ff if you go to lunch 😂🤣 but seriously, I will have to do this at some stage so the more times I get to see things come apart and back together the better lmao. I'm actually thinking of trying to source a scrap one, but hopefully as complete as possible to practice on. See how many spare parts I have left the first time I put it back together 😀
Looking forward to the next one 👊👍
It’s the amount of editing, often more than 12 hours work for a video of this length with three cameras. I’m not worried about the viewing length.
@@ANDY5 oh I know Andy, not from personal experience, but a few other channels I watch have explained and shown a bit about what it takes behind the scenes just to get it ready, then there's the uploading which can be a nightmare as well lol. That's why I appreciate small channels like yours so much, problem is the only way I can show support atm is by watching the adds and likes, but I don't remember seeing many adds in your videos, if any at all.
@@ANDY5 so I was replying to the Desmo dude a bit earlier and having a look through my manual, which does state differences with later models, like the cases being changed and different bolt lengths from 96 on etc.
My book says nothing about the crank preload being different on your model, it still shows 0.15 not 0.3mm. I'm of course not telling you that you or your other info is wrong, I remember you saying you also have a manual which may be more up to date than mine, please let me know if it is, and you also have experts helping you, I just wanted to let you know in case it's relevant and important info so you can double check if needed, if our books are the same it's on page G32.
I'm learning so much from you the manual is actually starting to make sense lol. It does say to add 0.3 but that's for the gasket, as you know, but it then definitely says add 0.15 for preload.
Sorry for repeating myself but I just wanted to triple check before I sent anything. Anyway I feel like I have at least tried to help lmao.
Cheers Andy
Andy, its like climbing Everest, we're close to the summit. (Chris Hokitika NZ)
Andy, quick question. Will you be covering the shell bearing modification you mentioned ? I have a set and am going to use them in my next build.
Yes mate, next video.
👍 Great workmanship.
Must admit I do like it when you take the piss out of the 🔔end
was that Tubweena asking the obvious questions? Nice vid Andy, good to see someone doing things properly, and not too proud (stupid) to ask questions. Thats the way I was taught... if in doubt, ask! Measure twice cut once, and always towards your mate!!
GuiriRides I don’t look as good in a bikini as Tubweena mate 😂
@@ANDY5 mmm, few do Andy, few do.
Another very useful video. Thanks Andy. "Smoo"?
Fantastic stuff Andy. Question, when heating the casing near to the pickups is there the possibility of damaging the pickups or associated wiring?
I suppose you could if you directly applied a flame to them. But they are happy functioning in a crankcase covered in hot oil at 90 degrees Celsius, so any radiant heat they were exposed to here is of no issue.
Quality work as always. Lots of maths though!!🤣🤣
Haha... Now I see why the edits were complex. It was hard, but not brittle....
Loving this series Andy thou there seems to be some cross contamination going on when you were installing those new bearings, maybe it's some new virus or something.
The bearings do not appear to be taper roller bearings, which as i understand require pre loading, yours are ball bearings, not sure you need too check preload, crankshaft end float for sure.
Sorry Mark, but you’re wrong
@@ANDY5 They are special ball bearings. They are angular contact bearings which do require preload.
Im taking pedantism to the extreme here but its worth mentioning here about the bearing retaining circlips and the fact that many (not all) technically have a "right" and a "wrong way" to be installed due to manufacture!
This point is often overlooked and rarely mentioned but it becomes plainly obvious once you actually have a closer look.
Yes they are stamped so have a small radius on one side, I instinctively look for it but rarely mention it. I have a suspicion that I have mentioned it in another video somewhere, god knows when. Thanks mate.
@@ANDY5 Old mate way back in the day learned the hard way after reassembling is TM125 Suzuki forks. The damper valve is retained by circlips.
Add a very fast and high jump, nek minnit front wheel and sliders dangling off the brake cable............... then landing......
He still bears scars from that faceplant...
fly Andy 👍
My beloved 1198 seems to have main bearing failure. I've been told my bike is terminally sick. Does this mean that she can be saved?
Great informative video as usual. Out of interest did the book method for measuring end float yield the same results?
It does if you do it correctly, but it’s a lot of mucking about. If you would like to see the process done properly have a look here ruclips.net/video/QsNXBEUKwuc/видео.html
@@ANDY5 I would put money on the fact that if you hadn't read that account of measuring the end float, you would have done it the way you (or anyone else would) dit it.
I presume the crank has some sort of sludge trap and plug?
Yup. I have washed it out.
After watching Delnob, I am afraid to start any of my 7 internal combustion engines. Several of the engine components are exposed to fire on one side and cold coolant on the other, not to mention the parts that have fire on one side and oil on the other. And yet other parts are both compressed and scratched repeatedly. Sounds like terribly destructive situation. Then their is that series of BMW transmissions that will not come apart or go back together without putting heat on the outside of the case trying to do it any other way will result in broken transmissions case every time.
your spot on there, wait, theres fire inside an aluminium engine?? (im kidding)
@@philtreadgold3853 worst yet some engin components are made of magnesium and magnesium is highly flammable.
Give us the dupli color code?
Would of taken the bearings out then painted the cases, nice job though. Nice into too lol
Why?
No other reason than I’d probably damage the fresh paint lol
Got ya, I thought you were suggesting that I paint the inside of the cases 😂
No I’m not Del lol
Even better - spray the engine casings once all the new bearings have been fitted!
Andy mate, I'm disappointed....not only have you spent all my Patreon money on lovely new bearings for the Duke, but you then failed to install them as advised by the well known expert, Dullboy......
....glad to see it all coming together nicely :)
I spend all your money on hookers and blow, this is my coin here 😂
Now get back to that Landrover
First off,my only gripe
.please remove "I am an idiot" in your title😁,that would be false,you are a well honed tradie with a wide knowledge and is appreciated..Now after watching many of your videos(the 900ss is brilliant series btw) this delboy you speak of with great affection🤣is a special kind of stupid isnt he which got me thinking about "thermal shock"...should I feel bad about all the "geograph" bushes I have thermally shocke d by lowering them into liquid nitrogen at -173 degrees cel then into heated boss of a couple of hundred degrees cel above 0..and believe this they never broke with all the loading that was applied to the pivot of a 600 odd tonne mining excavator...so Is it possible this delboy is a dildo?..in disguise..as usual I love your vids Andy and so does my partner,She gladly sits and watches "Andys" with me and we both think you are a "good bloke"..love your work
a dildo has a use
I’ve done the same with liquid nitrogen when I was an apprentice. We use to manufacture screw compressors and that’s how they were assembled.
That's those super double hard bearings ruined!
would be interesting to see how much heat is required to anneal the bearing as del said. my father was in engineering and would tell us sometimes about a huge bearing that was heated to fit on a shaft, you only get one go hed say.
@@philtreadgold3853 as a blacksmith by trade. i can tell you that the annealing process for steel, is to heat till red hot and cool slowly, even in air it will still be hard. for aluminium, rub a bar of soap on the part, heat ill the soap turns black , then quench in water, copper heat till cherry red then quench in water
ANDY I LOVE YOUR VEDIOS THANK YOU BUT I DO BELIEVE YOUR MAIN BEARINGS ARE GOING TO FAIL!!!
THOSE 2 SHIMS ARE THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THE ENGINE! I DONT THINK YOUSEATED THEM QUITE RIGHT OR SHIMED THEM RIGHT I HAVE BEEN THERE WITH SS 900S
THOSE BEARINGS MUST BE PERFECTLY FLUSH WITH THE HOUSEING AND MEARSURED GREAT BUILD GREAT SHOW I WISH YOU THE BEST !!!
Thanks mate. The bearings are definitely seated in the housing, 100% guaranteed.
THANK YOU MAYBE ITS THE CAMERA ANGLE?
Im just about to do this. Certainly on my M900 1995 the bearing will definitely NOT be flush. The retaining ring measures a depth of around 16.3mm and the bearing is 17mm so its going to be proud . And , yes I did avoid the small radius on the inside corner of the retaining ring.
But,..but,..you didn't listen to Dellbocks...!?
how to ruin your interfearance fit by not heating the casing and knocking out the bearing.
heat the case to 180 and the bearings will fall out on their own, job done.
After all that work and $$$$$$$ hope you ride the shit out of your 900 !!!! The bearings on my 900ss were still working at 190.000 miles put a crank bearing in along with a ebay transmission at 195.000 😎😎😎😎😎🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺
Well aren’t you Mr. Popular ... not one dislike!
Shall I be the first ?
lol, you spoke too soon mate
Andy's Motorcycle Obsessions ,, damn , well at least you made the perfect 100 before the penny dropped 😜
Ya got those creepy pictures at work because they’re not allowed in the house hey?
Penny dropped? I see what you did there 😂
Oh contraire my dear Minxy, we actually had those hanging along side of the stairs between the mid level and lounge/kitchen at home. We’re a little weird like that.
Andy's Motorcycle Obsessions ,, what ... I didn’t do anything anywhere 😇
@@ANDY5 that's not weird, that just means you found yourself a keeper 👍
I'm sure Ducati changed the crank preload from 0.15 to 0.30 mm, someone will have the info.
Thought it was 0.35 if replacing the main bearings, and 0.15 if re-using the existing bearings. Away from home at the moment, so can't check.
17.00 mins in, haha.
I was loving this until you showed that dipstick
super hard 🤔
The issue with Del is he has let his internet friend numbers go to his head and he actually thinks he’s a mechanic.
Del cannot take constructive criticism and will delete all posts that are not posts licking his arse. del is the guy who hardens screwdrivers to use as chisels, mars a perfectly good steering stem removing the bearings, advocates using engine oil designed for cars ( with anti friction additives) for bike engines with wet clutches
@@BigBadLoneWolf I seem to remember he also did a video explaining describing a synchromesh gearbox in a bandit, changing head and wheel bearings and renewing clutch plates doesn’t make him a mechanic, and he clearly has NO clue about engines apart from what can be bolted on and off.
One thumbs down,Del must be spying on ye!.
Always
Hi really interesting to watch great videos love the content up the great work