Big Printer, Big Problems - Elegoo Jupiter Review
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- The past several weeks with the Elegoo Jupiter have been full of highs and lows.
Check out our video where we tried to print as many rings as we could using this large format printer: • Large Format 3D Printi...
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Very thorough and good analysis! You are using the video time very good, not rushing it, but taking your time not left out any important stuff! Good work man!
my prints keep sticking to the fep, have tried a plethora of exposure settings and nothing i do works. I have lost over 48 hours printing tinkering around with this thing, i'm at a complete loss!
I've noticed something: when you're aligning the buildplate and the paper is a little bit more loose on one side (left, right, front or back) than from the other, it's not well aligned and you tend to get the same results: great adhesion on one side, warping and unstick on another; I don't own a Jupiter, only a Mars 3, so I don't know if this applies but, judging of how you got more warping on one side than the other, that could be part of the solution.
Btw the theory is true: the suction force is stronger on a big printer than a small one, so removing the full raft could help to decrease that force (at least on my Mars 3 it happens when I fill the buildplate with rafts, especially with Bluecast resin - I'm a jeweler too - so I print without rafts when I have to print a lot). Also, reducing the z-axis speed even more than recommended could help (I saw a review of Phrozen Mega 8K and you can see it's extremely slow compared to any smaller printer, so I assume it's to compensate the suction force).
Finally, I'd recommend Decimation Master on ZBrush for lowering the size of your files. 1.5 Gb is just too much for anything. Even Formlabs Preform or Sisma Slicer for their Everes printers crashes with >800mb files.
Great videos!
So far, I had no problems using this machine. After the first test print, I increased the speed to 120-240. I have the delay at 1.5 after each layer. I am not a fan of the build plate design. I am just printing miniatures so far but will start printing bigger things soon. I filled the plate with miniatures and had two stick to the vat. I then scraped the plate a little with the scraper tool and have not had any problems. Using Siraya Tech Fast Grey resin and some mixtures with some other fast type ABS like resins. Lifting distance of 4mm-4mm
I got our first Jupiter and I am just confused about the whole build plate leveling method. I understand the first-time leveling, but then once the first print is done, I take the build plate to put it back in place, and then guess what, there is no guarantee that the L handle will be tightened exactly the same way. If it is even slightly tighter than where it was before, there is too much gap between the plate and the FEP now and nothing will stick. If it is even a tad bit loose, then the build plate is now too close to the FEP, exerting pressure on the model and essentially resulting in print failure. So as of now what I understand is, you need to calibrate your printer after each print, which is absolutely not ideal for a large-format printer like this. Any word of advice from your experience of dealing with this printer? Thanks in advance.
@@precisionmodelworks7212 I have only leveled it once. I just slowly tightened until it correctly lines up to the screws/pegs. Then tighten it until I met some resistance. Do not over tighten the plate. I am comfortable with the printer now. I use Siraya tech at 2.6 exposure time. I replaced the flash drive because something was wrong with it. But for the most part I have good prints. Only problem I have now is user supports errors.
@@Trailhiker262 Thank you kindly. I will try that method and see how it goes. I think it is a bit of a 'touch and feel' type way and my issue is the printer is a shop printer that is handled by my employees, so will have to make sure the team also understands the method. Thank you for your help. Cheers!
Wait till you start printing large prints and hollowed prints.
A tip from a friend that has lots of printers, try hitting the build plate with 220 grit sandpaper. It should help with adhesion. My Jupiter arrives today!
so whats the update on your jupiter? were you having any of the same issues as him?
whats the update?
Same here, do you have any updates, I'd be glade before I order the machine !
I am disappointed, but I appreciate you not feeding us bull shit.
SUBSCRIBED
Hit the nail on the head. The leveling system on this printer SUCKS! Failure after failure after failure. I want my money back.
thanks for the review, in the process of doing the same. I will look out for the mentioned struggles and report on it.
Instructions followed: got drunk by @5:00
big printers need warm or thin resin. i bet a chamber heater would solve his issues. as odd or different as the leveling system is, it does work well when setup properly.
The reason they didnt fixated the screen could be very reasonable. If you fixate a glass plate it will crack. Remember the show where Tesla showed their pick-up truck and they used a sledge hammer to ram the door? The glass broke cause it was fixated waaaaayyyyyy to good.
Im a dental technician and i use printers for models and dentures. I just bought this machine for a mass production of models for my clear aligners. I actually roughed up my buildplate with sandpaper and i use light off delay with all my printers. The difference between 0 sec and 1.5 sec delay is huge. This you will need to check through trial and error if it will improve with you castable wax.
I believe you errors are purely user faults. I use Lychee for everything and have had zero problems with full buildplates using Lychee.
The distortion is not from the machine. It is about your placement of your prints. Just angle it, or slower layer time.
Ive been using this machine for over a month. My thoughts? I like it. I've had far more successful prints than failures and the failures all seem to be my inability to tension the fep properly. I'm not a big fan of the tiny carbon filter usb thing that comes with the machine. I'm using the elegoo 8k space grey water washable resin. levelling was easy, and the machine is quite quiet. Ive not printed a full height print yet, so cant comment on the printers ability to do that, but the quality of what i have printed has been good.
I got my first Jupiter and I am just confused about the whole build plate leveling method. I understand the first-time leveling, but then once the first print is done, I take the build plate to put it back in place, and then guess what, there is no guarantee that the L handle will be tightened exactly the same way. If it is even slightly tighter than where it was before, there is too much gap between the plate and the FEP now and nothing will stick. If it is even a tad bit loose, then the build plate is now too close to the FEP, exerting pressure on the model and essentially resulting in print failure. So as of now what I understand is, you need to calibrate your printer after each print, which is absolutely not ideal for a large-format printer like this. Any word of advice from your experience of dealing with this printer? Thanks in advance.
It might be too late for you to ever see this but, a spare limit switch could probably be installed in your light's power line to make the door open feature you wanted. Also the lights might be movable with some JB weld and scrap wire. Finally, if I had a large base print that was failing I might try dividing the print up into smaller prints. 10% or even 25% fewer pieces on the build plate that complete succesfully is better than 30% failure. Still waiting on mine to be delivered so my suggestions are untested. Be safe. Great video btw.
the solution of printing smaller defeats the point of a large format printer. That's not a solution.
The problem you’re describing regarding plate adhesion is a very common problem with large format resin printers.
I have an epax 156 and I’ve had more failed prints than successful ones. By far. There is simply too much force exerted against the build plate and display as your prints get larger. The only solution is to really make sure your print is angled in such a way as to mitigate that force.
Try reprinting your jewelry at an angle. Review the build and make sure that no more tha 20-30% of the build plate is white (covered) at any given time. Once that works, adjust upwards to see how much force your machine can sustain by adding more coverage. I’m more the man happy to discuss offline.
I'm trying to picture this. For example, if I wanted to print a sculpture of a man standing on a circular base, would it be best to print this upside-down, so the base is flat against the build plate (large surface area) or from the head down (top of head on build plate)? Would the weight of the figure make it come off if you have such a tiny surface area (the head) on the build plate?
For better adhesion the bed probably needs to hit with steel wool, a chamber heater to keep the resin within optimal temperature, and slower printing to help deal with the suction force.
Am waiting on a machine that has fixed a lot of these issues or I'm never touching 3D printers again. Tested my patience to the limit.
I always lightly sand the bed with 220 grit sandpaper, adds a slight rough surface for the resin to grab
Damn I wish I'd seen this review before I ordered this machine. Thanks for the ammendment on build plate adhesion, my bottom light delay was set to 0 by default.
could be wrong but from the comments it seems you just need to hit the build plate with some sandpaper to solve the main problem. I'm still considering getting one. Let me know in a reply if that doesn't work though!
@@convolution223 It turned out that the build plate is really easy to over tighten by accident. There’s a sweet spot with that main handle between it being too loose and lifting it into a tilt. Once I worked out what the hell was going on it came good. One thing I will say is that unless you’re doing big stuff on the regular this machine is total overkill for what it offers but that opinion may change as I head into larger projects.
Could your resin temp be causing the issue? I have seen some resins that need to be 77 degrees and warmer.
For Castable resins it very well could be part of the issue. We do pre-heat as needed but with such a large vat the resin has enough time to cool down as the print goes along. There are some external heating solutions that maybe could be mounted within the Jupiter case that could help combat this.
With our recent Peopoly Forge review we were so excited to test out the heated vat with the Castable resins for this reason.
I would have stuck with the original warm white LEDs, the new ones look bluer which though blue light won't cure resin (at least in any reasonable time frame), I imagine that it does degrade it. If the housing is steel, it's easy enough to fasten any kind of light you want to the machine with magnets anyway.
This is 100% correct. White/Blue spectrum LEDs do start affecting the resin as the light spectrum starts approaching 400 nanometers. Warm light is the way to go. The current LEDs should be off as much as possible
First rule that every beginner should know, never use the usb key provided with the printer. That is a basic.
If you can't even use something as simple as the USB that is provided it really shows how much these companies value their clients...
@@ClearMindJewellery it is unfortunately the case for many Chinese 3d printers. I am fine if I only have to update the usb key and save 1000$/euros. It is the same for the tools they provide (backers box), they are cheap and have to be updated.
I have my own usb drives, I'd rather they not include them and save the waste
My Jupiter finally arrived last week. Still haven't gotten a print to work. Every print has about .25 inches stuck to the FEP and not the plate. Total waste of money so far!
Dude same. I keep having my prints stick to the FEP and it is driving me NUTS
Same here , so far i burned 24 hours of bed leveling only ( got a timer everytime i had to do it again because of prints peeling of the build plate and sticking to the fep), still not working
I was having that same issue originally. First three attempts failed. But that's because I was trying to print their recommended "Rooks" included on the thumb drive. In trying to remove the prints from the FEP, I ruined one FEP and manged to drop the build plate which scratched the screen.
After cleaning up all that mess, I checked that the screen wasn't ruined; it just has a small area that I should avoid printing on. I then replaced th FEP. After reading some tips and watching some videos, I tried again. First, I buffed the build plate so that instead of a smooth surface, it now it a bit rough, but still flat. Second, I coated it has FEP with PTFE lubricant. Third, I releveled the he build plate and this time checked the home setting twice before putting the FEP vat back in. Finally, I made my own file to test print. I found a free bust model online, scaled it down significantly, tilted the model to a 45 degree angle, added a raft, added supports and then printed that. Result: a successful test print.
I've printed about 8 batches of various prints without any issues. The "Rooks" test file is bogus so you are better off making your own files using their provided software. I was even able to modify the Rooks like I did for the other models and now those print. Never print vertical models, always do angles with rafts and supports. Not sure how much of an impact the plate buffing and PTFE added, but it's cheap and easy enough to do. Hope that helps.
Use Rainblocker on the FEP !
I got mine and so far, the only issue I've had with it is the bed adhesion, like you point out, it's the back and for me specifically it's the back left side of the plate that has a hard time building up. I've had nothing but good things from Elegoo so I trust it as a brand but even I agree this one is a bit of a pain to get the build plate flush when leveling.
Elgoo is a Hit or miss But not you my friend, You contributing mad value to the 3d printing community , I have so much love and respect for what you doing. specially for jewelery industry much love . Brother and keep doing what you do. is amazing.
I'm not sure what came first, this video or ameralabs blog post (good read), but the lod info is great path.
I’ve had the same print bed adhesion issues on this machine
I got our first Jupiter and I am just confused about the whole build plate leveling method. I understand the first-time leveling, but then once the first print is done, I take the build plate to put it back in place, and then guess what, there is no guarantee that the L handle will be tightened exactly the same way. If it is even slightly tighter than where it was before, there is too much gap between the plate and the FEP now and nothing will stick. If it is even a tad bit loose, then the build plate is now too close to the FEP, exerting pressure on the model and essentially resulting in print failure. So as of now what I understand is, you need to calibrate your printer after each print, which is absolutely not ideal for a large-format printer like this. Any word of advice from your experience of dealing with this printer? Thanks in advance.
You said it all, frankly. This is the reason we sold this on already. The build plate levelling system is just not great.
Hopefully someone else in the comments has an answer.
I was going to say I don't think the failures are coming from the machine. It is much more likely from setup and print settings that you need to spend time and fine tune. Resin printing is not a setup up and print thing you need to spend time learning the machine and resins. Trial and error
I’ve never levelled between prints. When I put the build plate back in , I twist the screw till it bites then an eighth twist. I print on a raft which sorts out any inconsistencies
I’m having one hell of a problem so I really should have watched this prior
You don't mention it, so just confirming you removed the seal from inside the carbon filter before use! The carbon in the unit is sealed in plastic for delivery and it doesn't work very well until it's removed ;)
Yep we showed that process in our unboxing ruclips.net/video/RT_DgXDLp0k/видео.html
I can not get anything to get to adhere to the build plate. Its really frustrating.
For the coal filter did you remove the plastic bag around the filter??
yes we did. still not enough for the volume of resin in use.
Really good review. I have this machine and have had the same issues, bonding, leveling, blooming. I basically have to relevel before every print. The light off delay/wait before print function is essential. So is sanding the bed. So are heavy supports and extra vent holes if you are using hollowed models. I have a print farm and am very experienced with resin and FDM printing and this machine has driven me to my wits end. I never thought about the flexing of the surface that the bed sits on but that makes a lot of sense. I just assumed it was just the z-wobble issue due to the z axis being so tall and not being attached to the body at the top. I am hoping that the Elegoo or the community comes up with some fixes as this printer has a lot of great features but many things that need to be fixed.
Maybe that resin can't handle being large and flat and wants to curl... try some relief in the build and split it into 2 or 3 sections
you can actually get 40mm 5v fans that could run off the usb port that the carbon filter fits into.
Thakn you for mentioning the door, I'd not even cosidered how much of an issue that would be for me because I'm left handed.
The USB port is 24v @ 0.5amp
honest review！not some sponsored bullshit.
If they would match the build capabilities of the M3 Max, fix the backlash problem, and make it 8K they would have a buyer right here.
I am rather new to 3D printing - I have a anycubic photon mono x - I have played with a bit -
I use Lychee - it’s what I have been learning on - is this printer compatible with Lychee ?
Yes it is.
I am curious about something. Was this one of their Kickstarter units or did it come from their non kick starter product lines? Lot of these companies have problems with initial kick starter units.
There were several issues with some of the kickstarter units. We did get a kickstarter unit but due to our delivery date our model is closer to what a production model would be. Im not sure you can even purchase through their regular site right now.
Can it print resin for lost wax casting jewellery?
All printers can, it just depends on which ones are the best match.
As it doesn't have a heated vat castable resins that require a pre-heat are not recommended. Castable resins that are prone to separation are not recommended for large printers in general.
We however did not find the Jupiter a reliable enough unit for our business, personally.
nICE VIDEO... START WITH LESS RESIN AT START AND LATER ADD MORE IN PROCESS..
I have a Jupiter and never have this problem. The rings big base just pointles and material wasting and the holes in the base make suction. I really not understand why you make a giant base for a small rings
5:10 - I like the concept, but the problem I see is that the resin is sitting there for hours or days in the bottle without being agitated.
This is also an issue depending on resin. Thank you for mentioning it. So many things to go over with this machine.
I'm interested in your adapter on the siryatech resin, mentioned it was free. Am I missing the link to it? Otherwise great video, enjoyed it. Loving my Jupiter so far. Other than the auto-feeder, everything working great. Auto-feeder works for crap though :D
www.printables.com/model/214051-bottle-adapter-for-elegoo-jupiter-autofill
@@ClearMindJewellery I don't know if you updated, but that seeming bed leveling problem may be a slightly warped build plate, almost all of the first run of the Anycubic Mono X (which was a pretty good printer) had the same problem, for example.
Check the build plate with a good quality steel ruler that's at least as long as the build print diagonal - press the edge of the ruler onto the build plate hard and look at it in front of a bright light. If you see light coming through between the ruler edge and the build plate, the plate is warped. In that case, take some photos and send it to Elegoo and demand a level build plate.
Good luck and best wishes.
11:32 level the bed? if this is leveled, i will eat a broom and maybe the witch flying it.
For a machine targeted towards professionals, it for sure needs more refinement
The antialiasing in this machine works as bad as the Anycubic printers, only Phrozen printers can achieve a good AA. I hope we can upgrade the screen in a soon.
Where i can buy elegoo jupiter; i cant find any store selling it
www.elegoo.com/products/elegoo-jupiter-resin-3d-printer-6k-mono-msla-3d-printer
@@ClearMindJewellery thank you!
Talked me out of buying this. Thank you for saving me a gigantic headache!
you checked the bed with a ruler? probably wonky
Or the large format won't be the printer of choice for non-traditional resin.
Can you please recommend which resin are you using right now and what would be the best budget resin for casting on phrozen mega
ruclips.net/video/0XDt-r8N2nY/видео.html
Maybe my eyes aren't the best but at 22:45 it does look like your bp may not be level. And that can cause fails. I hope I'm not sounding rude, that's what I see.
This machine was transported to the studio for filming and was not setup for use.
I want a 3d printer. Should I buy it
Bed is too thick. Too much bed.
I've found with larger printer like this I get better results with Siratech Fast. Its thin and not super think and works really well on my larger Peopoly printers.