Thanks for watching! See below for links to get one of these tapping arms and the accessories I mentioned in the video. As an Amazon affiliate I earn from qualifying purchases. M3-M16 (#8 - 5/8") Electric Tapping Arm (with ANSI fraction collets) amzn.to/3GJy4vu amzn.to/3KCDNVb Pneumatic Version: amzn.to/406EjjS ANSI Collet set separately amzn.to/40bPwzI Long Power Cord amzn.to/3ogoXfw
I used to work General structural fabrication when I was in the Air Force, miss the work and having access to the shop and a really cool stuff I used to make. I still use those skills every day. If I could get back into it independently I would, just can't find an application to invest in the tooling for. I'm just wondering, what type of fabrication do you do? What is your business? Investing in a tool like this and being able to make money I'm just curious what your area of business is. You've obviously found a niche and I'm just curious. Thanks for posting all your videos and they're really cool ideas you share with the community!
Need a locator rod you can chuck-up and a mating cylinder you place on the table to quickly register the angle of the motor. All precision machined to both vertical and horizontal positions. Instead of a cylinder, just bore a hole to match the locator rod in a machined block you can use to register vertical and horizontal positions.
The author does like to ruclips.net/user/postUgkxkNYRBJuiJ6EwD-tQSAlxg0eFKsnR2cgz from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. As another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us don’t have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we won’t be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
I usually have to do two or three one inch holes a year in my marine business by hand so that would actually save the customer a great bit of labor. That's pretty cool!
"A little small for the half-inch but we got there" That right there is the sound of an efficient guy who knows his stuff. Just a random observation while I wait for my own tapping machine to arrive.
Thanks for another great tool tip. I appreciate your opinion and your time to make these. I hope you make a ton of money and get loads of free tools. 👍
My $400 stick welder makes me $2-3k a month in the summer. Its the everlast 210stl. Probably the best stick welder under 2k on the market. Fully adjustable arc force and hot start, vrd ,6010 capable, anti stick, lift tig AND foot pedal compatable with quick connect gas fittings. The best part is that it weighs under 20 lbs. The only way it could be better is if it had AC output, but honestly who even needs that? I would only use it once a year if it had it.
Lol, du hast viel gelernt wie man trotz der Maschine das Gewinde schief ins Werkstück schneidet! Man sollte erst lernen das Werkstück richtig im Schraubstock zu spannen
I once worked in a shop and we tapped thousands of holes in sheetmetal, (mostly aluminum) a year. Mostly small sizes, less than 3/8" We used a tapmatic in a regular drill press, and I would absolutely use that instead of this. FWIW, I have used one of these, just the expensive $5K US made version.
Holy Smokes.... .I had nonidea that these type tapping machines would do all that you have shown, I see now why they are so popular... this video is fantastic as far as showing the versatility and ease of use....... you have done a wonderful job on this video.... Thank you so much...from an old frustrated 'thread tapper' in Florida,,,,,,Cheers, Paul
This isndefinately one of those tools a guy wants to own even if he does NOT do production work. It's just that awesome! Nice demonstration and explanation here. My brain tells me I can make something like this with a cordless drill. For my purposes would be enough. Would be cool just for drilling multiple holes and guaranteeing perpendicularity. Anyway, thanks for showcasing this super cool piece of equipment.
I was thinking you could make one with the movability of it with a simple quality (Ergotron) monitor stand. But that torque detection to not break taps is worth 1000$ alone already. You could use it for assembly tasks as well. A cordless torque settable drill already costs a lot.
Awesome! Definitely overkill for me but I might just look into the clutch collets for my mill. What type of parts do you make that need so much tapping?
You could make a jig with a bored out hole with a slip fit for a bearing surface on the tapping head and that is ground flat to mate with your table surface. Then you could make sure that a surface perpinduclar to it is ground flat and could set the head for horizontal tapping.
Be careful!!! We used a tapping arm similar to that for a few hundred holes on some F16 gearboxes...when the studs were installed they were out of tolerance for perpendicularity. The studs were Expensive Titanium Rosan studs with the serrated lock rings. All of the studs had to be removed and all of the threaded holes had to be repaired for more super expensive oversize Rosan studs.
“F16” as in the airplane? If so, then that’s on you. It’s obvious that the (type of) machine and mechanism has loose tolerances. Even if it was “FlexArm” nothing beats a rigid setup with top shelf tools.
@@MRSketch09 I was with you, but then I got sus. I looked up Rosan studs and everything I saw was for aerospace, and they are pricey! One could certainly use them for automotive, but they are definitely spec for aerospace.. please don't use $1000 threading tools to build fighter jets, please!
Junk in, junk out. In this case your setup perhaps. So did just slap the gearbox on a workbench & go to town on 'em? Kinda sounds like you tried to cut corners because your smarter than the controlled work process that's written for any part that goes onto or repairs a JET FIGHTER. Either that or your just trying to stir sh** up but ended up looking inept. Or it was sarcasm & you're not good at that either. Allegedly.
You need to put some oil on the tap flutes and the hole after blowing off the tap between holes, I normally brush oil on the the tap with a small brush and lets the oil drip into the hole. When you only put oil into the hole the back end of the tap doesn't get as much oil and wears faster, only the first few teeth get enough oil.
When lining the nose back up to perpendicular to the table a V block would allow you to get it square a little faster. No checking from 2 different sides.
@Make Everything I used to was a machinerist. Lol. Things learned from old school toolmakers over the years. If you want to blow people's minds, next time you are laying out lines on a piece of stock and you want to put layout die or sharpie on it to scribe line into just take a sharpie and hold it between the part to be covered and your air gun. A couple blasts across the tip of your sharpie and your part will be covered with ink to scribe line into. Works great on the lathe as well for laying our lengths on a rotating part
Spiral point taps are my favourite.... especially for thru holes, spiral flute taps are great too but just a little more fragile.... and ALWAYS use the appropriate cutting fluid. 😎👍☘️🍺
Does it stop and back out to break the chip? Or just stand on it? Most the time with a small tap in hard steel if you dont break the chip youll snap the tap i was told when I worked in a very large machine shop to back out some to break the chip, doing 10 million x2 holes in aircraft aluminum 6061 i think it was with a 5/16" tap i never broke a tap. Now this is real handy on stainless steel or 4140.
Pretty cool radial arm drill/tap Is that a magnet mount or clamp mount? Magnet would be useless on none ferrous metals. And good high carbon stainless steel.
I was literally just looking into these and pneumatic options. You're a hero. FlexArm coming in at $5000 was just far too insane for a small shop. What type of taps actually fit the collets? Do you find any issues with torque? Have you broken any taps with it?
It’s a good value! Standard SAE taps fit well, and if you get in a jam get a chuck for it and that should help. I’ve never had it not be able to tap steel parts. No shortage of torque
@@Darlhim89 yeah seems to be a new option. When I got mine they were all 220v, and I got those weird metric collets. A 110v version would be way more convenient!
It looks like your taps are manual taps. Since you are using mashine to tap you should think about going to mashinst taps. the ones that they are using with cnc mills. Those have better chip evac.
Am I wrong in pointing out that most of the taps you show installed are hand taps? Most machine taps should be either 2 flutes (chips down) or spiral (chips up) - otherwise you’re working with hand taps and need to constantly backup to break the chips. Haas made a very good video on this topic fyi, it’s on RUclips.
Biggest reason I never got one is because i modified a manual thread tapper, I think by grizzly, that uses a regular drill. MUCH cheaper but slightly limited vs this but very useful regardless
Great Video, thanks for making me drool, lol.... You know you're making it hard for a broke dude to do work lol. I just want all the cool tools.. lol. Great Videos, awesome information, keep making them, very enjoyable.....
Why not just grind a square section on the shanks of your countersinks so they can fit the collets directly without having to add the cumbersome keyless chuck? Or am I missing something?
Great machine. Great video. One question: was I misunderstanding you? So you can set it to standard size threads but the distance is still in millimeters? I think that would annoy me unless like you I knew I had a customer base to make money. Since I’m disabled and trying to find ways to support myself, perhaps, tapping holes is in my future. (just realized how that sounds)😂
In the USA and surroundings , it seems like the jobs that the small shops that get brought in or Requested by a friend (favour) ha is ridiculously ironic to the random new tool in the shop.
Love it! I need one! Do you think blowing some compressed air through the tap might clear up those snags? It just seems like there is a bunch of leftover shards that could be abstracting the tap. Thank you for another inciteful tool!
So I got one of these. Bought the collects as well. But the collects won't hold the taps. I got the ANSI and metric collects. Which collets do you have?
@@jamiehoffpauir3404 hmm weird, I have the ANSI ones and they fit all my taps. Some taps have a weird shank diameter and don’t work but generally they all fit… maybe try the manufacturer
@@MakeEverything the taps I have tried fit, but they don't stay in the collets. They just drop out. I push the sping in, insert the tap, and release the spring and they fall out. Has me baffled. Can't tap a hole with that going on.
do this machine do acme threads? or somebody call that vice screw threads. you can turn the screw on lathe, but tap that thread on cast iron is pain in the ass. do this machine encounter this problem?
I was kind of surprised that you can just use standard hand taps instead of requiring spiral fluted machine taps. To be honest I have spent much more on tools I would use far less than this.
The Tapmatic tapping heads I use all have a certain amount of float and slop in them and these are no different. These g12 collets move around a bit so as long as the drilled hole is straight and square and the tap goes in generally square it seems to tap perfectly .
Instead of a block to align perpendicularity, why not chuck a ground shaft that fits your table holes? Lower the shaft into a hole, clamp arms in place. Done
How to hell is it working?? I understand clutch and torque but you can put them onto any normal drill and it would no way go through 1/2” no way.. How is this mechanism working and is there a mobile style. This would be great for glow plugs or taps broken from trying to remove glow plugs
Great, it is metric. Now you can buy metric drill bits. Hole to drill, M nominal diam minus pitch in mm. Easier than using tables, fractional, number, alpha drill bits !!!
When you have a good drillpress you don't need this tool, there are plenty of morse taper tapping heads which is basically the same thing but you mount it in the drillpress and costs like 1/4th of the price..
But a drill press will have a limited throat like my mills do, this has a much larger swing for big plates than any drill press I’ve seen. Both have their place though!
@@MakeEverything yea to be fair i am Abit spoiled we have a double column radial drilling machine at work it has like a 3meter span and that with like 300° rotation
@@MakeEverything I'd imagine there is no contest when it comes to tapping multiple holes along the edge of a large workpiece. The workpiece is fully supported with your setup and doesn't need repositioning to process.
A+ video and content. You’re very engaging and informative. You should forward your content to an agent if you’re interested in promoting yourself to a broader audience. specifically this video. Where do you market/advertise for this type of contract work, Craigslist? Does that machine drill holes also, just curious ? 🕳️ How much cost is involved in the collets and taps?
Lots of VISIBLE runout on this thing or the tooling. Scary if you try to do any precision work. A 123 block is fine for lot tolerance work, but be careful if someone bring in close tolerance work. You don't want to make or receive THAT phone call.
Pneumatic tapping arms with a 1000 rpm motor are great for production work on 5/16" and smaller holes. I'd recommend it over this if you had tons of them to do. Looks like this has a good size range though and pretty affordable.
I am sitting here doing the same. I have found that having certain tools can change how a parent is designed. I work with a fair amount of thinner (14/16 gauge) tubing and have been able to get by welding nuts or using nutzerts where threads are needed because of the thin wall. Something like this might open a different design option, even if it is welding a 1/8” flat plate over the hole and threading it, would look better than a nut welded. Again, trying to justify it 😊
@@dandyscorner a good tap in a drill will do 100% the same thing, you already own the drill I bet. Make a collet holder to hold in the drill to prevent spinning the taps In the drill.
@@MrSims-ky2ne Not entirely true. I own a moderately expensive tapmatic head, and it works awesome however often times it is easier to bring the tap to the work than the work to the tap. Especially in the case of large flat plates. You can clamp once and move the tap around over clamping and moving it over and over.
Ok, this title is B.S. - The wife walked by, saw it, and immediately just said NO! I need some kind of app that just overlays video titles with something like "How to make your wife happy" How to deep-clean the kitchen or bathroom" or "Diamonds are a girl's best friend" or something.
Thanks for watching! See below for links to get one of these tapping arms and the accessories I mentioned in the video. As an Amazon affiliate I earn from qualifying purchases.
M3-M16 (#8 - 5/8") Electric Tapping Arm (with ANSI fraction collets)
amzn.to/3GJy4vu
amzn.to/3KCDNVb
Pneumatic Version:
amzn.to/406EjjS
ANSI Collet set separately
amzn.to/40bPwzI
Long Power Cord
amzn.to/3ogoXfw
I used to work General structural fabrication when I was in the Air Force, miss the work and having access to the shop and a really cool stuff I used to make. I still use those skills every day.
If I could get back into it independently I would, just can't find an application to invest in the tooling for. I'm just wondering, what type of fabrication do you do? What is your business? Investing in a tool like this and being able to make money I'm just curious what your area of business is.
You've obviously found a niche and I'm just curious. Thanks for posting all your videos and they're really cool ideas you share with the community!
Need a locator rod you can chuck-up and a mating cylinder you place on the table to quickly register the angle of the motor. All precision machined to both vertical and horizontal positions. Instead of a cylinder, just bore a hole to match the locator rod in a machined block you can use to register vertical and horizontal positions.
Well now that’s smart!!! Thanks for the idea!!
The author does like to ruclips.net/user/postUgkxkNYRBJuiJ6EwD-tQSAlxg0eFKsnR2cgz from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. As another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us don’t have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we won’t be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
I usually have to do two or three one inch holes a year in my marine business by hand so that would actually save the customer a great bit of labor. That's pretty cool!
"A little small for the half-inch but we got there"
That right there is the sound of an efficient guy who knows his stuff. Just a random observation while I wait for my own tapping machine to arrive.
Got to be the coolest little drilling/tapping machine I have seen. And for $1200 and a return in a month.
Great review, Chris! I rarely tap anything, but this looks like a big time saver for those who do.
Thanks for another great tool tip. I appreciate your opinion and your time to make these. I hope you make a ton of money and get loads of free tools. 👍
My $400 stick welder makes me $2-3k a month in the summer.
Its the everlast 210stl. Probably the best stick welder under 2k on the market. Fully adjustable arc force and hot start, vrd ,6010 capable, anti stick, lift tig AND foot pedal compatable with quick connect gas fittings. The best part is that it weighs under 20 lbs. The only way it could be better is if it had AC output, but honestly who even needs that? I would only use it once a year if it had it.
Wow, that is a really nice machine. Thank you for sharing.
I don't do anywhere near enough tapping to justify the expense - but I still really want one! XD
I mean, every house needs one!!
My brain said you were going to break a tap. But, thats me. :-)
Great video!
I gotta be honest it took me a while to really trust it… but when that clutch engages I know I’m safe! Now I just break taps when I do it by hand 🫠
You are a good men ! For taking your time for teach others . And that’s special . Very special ! Pal .
i bought one for my machine shop - its the cheap china one - we love that thing! its well worth the money!
I learned a LOT from this video. I know you’ve been using this for a while but I really understand it a lot better now.
Lol, du hast viel gelernt wie man trotz der Maschine das Gewinde schief ins Werkstück schneidet! Man sollte erst lernen das Werkstück richtig im Schraubstock zu spannen
I once worked in a shop and we tapped thousands of holes in sheetmetal, (mostly aluminum) a year. Mostly small sizes, less than 3/8" We used a tapmatic in a regular drill press, and I would absolutely use that instead of this. FWIW, I have used one of these, just the expensive $5K US made version.
Holy Smokes....
.I had nonidea that these type tapping machines would do all that you have shown,
I see now why they are so popular...
this video is fantastic as far as showing the versatility and ease of use.......
you have done a wonderful job on this video....
Thank you so much...from an old frustrated 'thread tapper' in Florida,,,,,,Cheers, Paul
This isndefinately one of those tools a guy wants to own even if he does NOT do production work. It's just that awesome!
Nice demonstration and explanation here.
My brain tells me I can make something like this with a cordless drill. For my purposes would be enough. Would be cool just for drilling multiple holes and guaranteeing perpendicularity.
Anyway, thanks for showcasing this super cool piece of equipment.
Just buy a Procunier and put it on a drill press,, at least 10 X as fast as the pile of trash in this video..
I was thinking you could make one with the movability of it with a simple quality (Ergotron) monitor stand.
But that torque detection to not break taps is worth 1000$ alone already. You could use it for assembly tasks as well. A cordless torque settable drill already costs a lot.
that thing's pretty sweet. if i had the shop space and clientele to get a fab business going on the side i'd def add this tool too my collection.
Damn, 1200 for that beast! There's plenty of jobs Ive done where that would've cut the time take to tap by at least 10x
It's a little steep of an investment for most small shops but over the course of its life I think it's well worth it. It has been for me at least!
gotta love those 'gun taps' my go to tap for through tapping.....
the spiral fluted taps are fantastic too...
Awesome! Definitely overkill for me but I might just look into the clutch collets for my mill. What type of parts do you make that need so much tapping?
Stop it. Everyone should have an electric tapping arm. Even my mother won't shut up about them.
Buy some tap sockets for the 3/8 adapter. Not as spindly as the tap holder. Lisle makes a good set for around 30 bucks
Not something I’m into at this point but your class sold me if I do get deeper into fabrication
Always interesting and Educational. Stay well .... DON'T DIE
You could make a jig with a bored out hole with a slip fit for a bearing surface on the tapping head and that is ground flat to mate with your table surface. Then you could make sure that a surface perpinduclar to it is ground flat and could set the head for horizontal tapping.
Be careful!!!
We used a tapping arm similar to that for a few hundred holes on some F16 gearboxes...when the studs were installed they were out of tolerance for perpendicularity. The studs were Expensive Titanium Rosan studs with the serrated lock rings. All of the studs had to be removed and all of the threaded holes had to be repaired for more super expensive oversize Rosan studs.
“F16” as in the airplane? If so, then that’s on you. It’s obvious that the (type of) machine and mechanism has loose tolerances. Even if it was “FlexArm” nothing beats a rigid setup with top shelf tools.
@@marcosmota1094 I think he means race cars... b/c he mentioned "Gear boxes".
@@MRSketch09 I was with you, but then I got sus. I looked up Rosan studs and everything I saw was for aerospace, and they are pricey! One could certainly use them for automotive, but they are definitely spec for aerospace.. please don't use $1000 threading tools to build fighter jets, please!
Junk in, junk out. In this case your setup perhaps. So did just slap the gearbox on a workbench & go to town on 'em? Kinda sounds like you tried to cut corners because your smarter than the controlled work process that's written for any part that goes onto or repairs a JET FIGHTER. Either that or your just trying to stir sh** up but ended up looking inept. Or it was sarcasm & you're not good at that either. Allegedly.
@@MRSketch09Most jet engines have gear boxes. There are other places you could have them on an aircraft. Landing gear could have a sort of a gearbox.
Bro, watching this thing cut threads is addicting haha!
It’s sweet!
You need to put some oil on the tap flutes and the hole after blowing off the tap between holes, I normally brush oil on the the tap with a small brush and lets the oil drip into the hole. When you only put oil into the hole the back end of the tap doesn't get as much oil and wears faster, only the first few teeth get enough oil.
the same is true for drill bits also
When lining the nose back up to perpendicular to the table a V block would allow you to get it square a little faster. No checking from 2 different sides.
Great idea! I didn’t even think of that 🤦🏻♂️
@Make Everything I used to was a machinerist. Lol. Things learned from old school toolmakers over the years. If you want to blow people's minds, next time you are laying out lines on a piece of stock and you want to put layout die or sharpie on it to scribe line into just take a sharpie and hold it between the part to be covered and your air gun. A couple blasts across the tip of your sharpie and your part will be covered with ink to scribe line into. Works great on the lathe as well for laying our lengths on a rotating part
for this small sizes of threads you can surely set highest rpm and do all of them in that settings.
75% of that above 1/2
Spiral point taps are my favourite.... especially for thru holes, spiral flute taps are great too but just a little more fragile.... and ALWAYS use the appropriate cutting fluid.
😎👍☘️🍺
Agreed, not just 3 in 1 oil.
if i only had space... I use a Fein Mag with reverse works great Drills and taps
Need a companion mag-drill with the same articulating arm setup.
I've used a similar machine before and they are definitely worth the cost.
Calling inches "standard" is funny.
Anyhow, a really nice tapper!
You’re the man Chris!
Does it stop and back out to break the chip? Or just stand on it? Most the time with a small tap in hard steel if you dont break the chip youll snap the tap i was told when I worked in a very large machine shop to back out some to break the chip, doing 10 million x2 holes in aircraft aluminum 6061 i think it was with a 5/16" tap i never broke a tap. Now this is real handy on stainless steel or 4140.
should put some sorta breaker/fuse inline, I think welder plug is 50amp..... possible fire risk
12:21 that's big brain, Nice!
Pretty cool radial arm drill/tap
Is that a magnet mount or clamp mount? Magnet would be useless on none ferrous metals. And good high carbon stainless steel.
Interesting machine. I like your work table. Was it something you bought or made? What do you use it for mostly?
cool design, does it have a soft start at the beginning of the tapping procedure? That's when I seem to break taps.
Great tool, great information and video.
Thanks for sharing.
is there a link to that mount you spoke of for the tapper?
I'm sold. great sales man. lol
wonderful video, cheers from Florida, Paul
Am I the only one who left with the feeling of been watching a convention commercial presentation?
please show part # for the drill collet with jt33 shank
I was literally just looking into these and pneumatic options. You're a hero. FlexArm coming in at $5000 was just far too insane for a small shop.
What type of taps actually fit the collets? Do you find any issues with torque? Have you broken any taps with it?
It’s a good value! Standard SAE taps fit well, and if you get in a jam get a chuck for it and that should help. I’ve never had it not be able to tap steel parts. No shortage of torque
@@MakeEverything Looks like the model you show in the video comes in 110v imperial collet option? Was this made available after you bought yours?
@@Darlhim89 yeah seems to be a new option. When I got mine they were all 220v, and I got those weird metric collets. A 110v version would be way more convenient!
It looks like your taps are manual taps. Since you are using mashine to tap you should think about going to mashinst taps. the ones that they are using with cnc mills. Those have better chip evac.
I’ve been wanting to get one of these for some time, but I’m not sure where to mount it. If I could figure that out, I would get it.
Am I wrong in pointing out that most of the taps you show installed are hand taps? Most machine taps should be either 2 flutes (chips down) or spiral (chips up) - otherwise you’re working with hand taps and need to constantly backup to break the chips. Haas made a very good video on this topic fyi, it’s on RUclips.
To square up easily use a V block.
Are you sure your tap is spinning concentrically?
This is a cool machine!
Do you use this as a drill press and tap or just to tap?
Biggest reason I never got one is because i modified a manual thread tapper, I think by grizzly, that uses a regular drill. MUCH cheaper but slightly limited vs this but very useful regardless
Great Video, thanks for making me drool, lol.... You know you're making it hard for a broke dude to do work lol. I just want all the cool tools.. lol. Great Videos, awesome information, keep making them, very enjoyable.....
At first I loved the bench. Then I thought, how many nuts and bolts and stuff fell through it.
Where did you order your tapping machine from
Great content ! Thank you. Subscribed keep up the great work
Why not just grind a square section on the shanks of your countersinks so they can fit the collets directly without having to add the cumbersome keyless chuck? Or am I missing something?
Great machine. Great video. One question: was I misunderstanding you? So you can set it to standard size threads but the distance is still in millimeters? I think that would annoy me unless like you I knew I had a customer base to make money. Since I’m disabled and trying to find ways to support myself, perhaps, tapping holes is in my future. (just realized how that sounds)😂
wow nice tool i dident now it exist till now
What about M3,M4,M5 can we tap with this machine, how much chances to break tap
It's very hectic when tap broken
We haven’t broken a single tap with it
Am I the only one who is bothered by the power button being clocked out of line?
The “Odinary Operation” button bothered me too! 😳😳
It does now you mentioned it , greens a nice colour though 😇
I'm bothered by putting a welder plug on the end of a 15' computer cord and plugging it into any outlet in the shop! Not good!
Well I am now
I couldn’t stop staring
Your review is about a year old now, so after a year's use do you still highly recommend this unit? Any issues with using it over the past year?
Aren’t you concerned bout lack of concentricity with diy tap holder?
I see that also
In the USA and surroundings , it seems like the jobs that the small shops that get brought in or
Requested by a friend (favour) ha is ridiculously ironic to the random new tool in the shop.
Love it! I need one! Do you think blowing some compressed air through the tap might clear up those snags? It just seems like there is a bunch of leftover shards that could be abstracting the tap. Thank you for another inciteful tool!
So I got one of these. Bought the collects as well. But the collects won't hold the taps. I got the ANSI and metric collects. Which collets do you have?
@@jamiehoffpauir3404 hmm weird, I have the ANSI ones and they fit all my taps. Some taps have a weird shank diameter and don’t work but generally they all fit… maybe try the manufacturer
@@MakeEverything the taps I have tried fit, but they don't stay in the collets. They just drop out. I push the sping in, insert the tap, and release the spring and they fall out. Has me baffled. Can't tap a hole with that going on.
@@jamiehoffpauir3404 that’s very odd there should be little pawls that grab them and the square on the end should index and lock in…
wow 1000 dollar for that tool good price mate
That’s it, take my money!😳🤣💸
do this machine do acme threads? or somebody call that vice screw threads. you can turn the screw on lathe, but tap that thread on cast iron is pain in the ass. do this machine encounter this problem?
He should have 10 more and be extremely efficient, with other guys running them.
Way cool!
I was kind of surprised that you can just use standard hand taps instead of requiring spiral fluted machine taps. To be honest I have spent much more on tools I would use far less than this.
thanks, i do mine by hand
Impact driver and tap go brrrrr
Fantastic 👍
Forgot the most important spec in the entire process. Concentricity your homemade collet holder is bunk.
The Tapmatic tapping heads I use all have a certain amount of float and slop in them and these are no different. These g12 collets move around a bit so as long as the drilled hole is straight and square and the tap goes in generally square it seems to tap perfectly .
@@MakeEverything the uneven countersinks would drive me nuts. Why did it appear to "stop" on the 1/2 hole as well.
@@MrSims-ky2ne the countersink was a single flute so at a low rpm it tends to looks like it’s running crooked. It was too small for the 1/2” hole
Instead of a block to align perpendicularity, why not chuck a ground shaft that fits your table holes? Lower the shaft into a hole, clamp arms in place. Done
How to hell is it working?? I understand clutch and torque but you can put them onto any normal drill and it would no way go through 1/2” no way.. How is this mechanism working and is there a mobile style. This would be great for glow plugs or taps broken from trying to remove glow plugs
I believe it's the high torque low RPM motor in it. It's pretty amazing and really useful. I know they make some handheld tapping versions too!
Cool !! 👍👍👍👍
Me , hmm not sure I can wait 16 minutes to see this working.....suddenly you are showing me how it works at 16:10 !!!
Great, it is metric. Now you can buy metric drill bits. Hole to drill, M nominal diam minus pitch in mm. Easier than using tables, fractional, number, alpha drill bits !!!
When you have a good drillpress you don't need this tool, there are plenty of morse taper tapping heads which is basically the same thing but you mount it in the drillpress and costs like 1/4th of the price..
But a drill press will have a limited throat like my mills do, this has a much larger swing for big plates than any drill press I’ve seen. Both have their place though!
@@MakeEverything yea to be fair i am Abit spoiled we have a double column radial drilling machine at work it has like a 3meter span and that with like 300° rotation
@@FireGodSpeed well now you’re just showing off
@@FireGodSpeed And does it cost $1,000?
@@MakeEverything I'd imagine there is no contest when it comes to tapping multiple holes along the edge of a large workpiece. The workpiece is fully supported with your setup and doesn't need repositioning to process.
A+ video and content. You’re very engaging and informative. You should forward your content to an agent if you’re interested in promoting yourself to a broader audience. specifically this video.
Where do you market/advertise for this type of contract work, Craigslist?
Does that machine drill holes also, just curious ? 🕳️
How much cost is involved in the collets and taps?
Lots of VISIBLE runout on this thing or the tooling. Scary if you try to do any precision work. A 123 block is fine for lot tolerance work, but be careful if someone bring in close tolerance work. You don't want to make or receive THAT phone call.
Awesome
Pneumatic tapping arms with a 1000 rpm motor are great for production work on 5/16" and smaller holes. I'd recommend it over this if you had tons of them to do. Looks like this has a good size range though and pretty affordable.
A poor man's radial drill !
"Odinary Observation". lol
Stupid question what exactly do you call this tool ?
Cool
Nice tool. BTW: it's RPM not RPMs. Just saying. Revolutions per minute not revolutions per minutes...
I don’t need this whatsoever…but I will justify it somehow
I am sitting here doing the same. I have found that having certain tools can change how a parent is designed. I work with a fair amount of thinner (14/16 gauge) tubing and have been able to get by welding nuts or using nutzerts where threads are needed because of the thin wall. Something like this might open a different design option, even if it is welding a 1/8” flat plate over the hole and threading it, would look better than a nut welded. Again, trying to justify it 😊
@@dandyscorner a good tap in a drill will do 100% the same thing, you already own the drill I bet. Make a collet holder to hold in the drill to prevent spinning the taps In the drill.
@@MrSims-ky2ne Not entirely true. I own a moderately expensive tapmatic head, and it works awesome however often times it is easier to bring the tap to the work than the work to the tap. Especially in the case of large flat plates. You can clamp once and move the tap around over clamping and moving it over and over.
@Zachary Mihlrad hey dipshit hand taps exsist for that very reason! But if you need this shit inferior Chinese tool go right ahead. 😂😂
"Odinary Operation"??
Ok, this title is B.S. - The wife walked by, saw it, and immediately just said NO! I need some kind of app that just overlays video titles with something like "How to make your wife happy" How to deep-clean the kitchen or bathroom" or "Diamonds are a girl's best friend" or something.
Next time I’ll title it, how I bought my an even BIGGER engagement ring! 😉