I've made many window plugs for my bedroom and basement windows. The key to success is having a large air gap between the window itself and the window plug. The larger the air gap, the more noise attenuation there will be. My basement window sill is 15" deep and I hear nothing when the window plug is in, not even loud bass penetrates it. My bedroom window only has a 4" gap and I hear a bit more through it. All air gaps between the plug and frame must be sealed air tight, but you already knew that. One more thing... you have a very nice voice. Very pleasant and easy to listen to. You should consider getting a job narrating audio books.
Yes, deeper window openings (which often come with thicker walls) are super helpful, and I agree that the bigger the air gap, the better the results. My 1950s apartment building is a perfect example of how builders cut corners for several decades, resulting in an acoustical (and indoor heating) nightmare. The gap between the double-paned vinyl windows and the interior wall is only 2 inches. That's the amount of space I have to create an air gap for the plexiglass insert.These windows were retrofitted in -- the original windows were single-paned aluminum. So maybe the original air gap was slightly deeper, but the single-paned windows themselves were about as effective as a T-shirt. There's already a very small gap between the two panes of glass in the vinyl windows, but it's fairly insignificant. I envy you for that 15-inch gap in your basement windows!
I'm thinking about trying the plexiglass and would like to know if you notice any moisture problems in the tightly closed airspace. Mass is the most helpful and considering putting a large sofa pillow given to me not needed on my sofa into the airspace. I'm working with a 3'x5' FT vertical window. also, the hardware store wants to load me up with 3 screen clips on the 3 sides. Tap plastic suggested 1 at the top and 2 on each side. Whatcha think?
I haven't noticed any moisture problems in the air space, and I think I've had this plexiglass installed for about 2 years. The exterior windows are double-paned vinyl windows, retrofitted into what was originally a single-pane aluminum window frame from the 1950s. These vinyl windows are probably 20 years old and they still seem pretty airtight. The space between the two panes in the vinyl windows don't fog up, so neither does the air gap between those windows and the plexiglass sheet. As for the clips: when I first did this project, I used stationary clips on all sides. Then I realized this just made it harder to remove the plexiglass if I needed to. I don't need to remove the plexi from the smaller window. But on the larger window, it's a total hassle to remove a panel to open the window with stationary clips on the side of the plexiglass. So I replaced the side clips with two inexpensive metal latch/handles. If I can find a link for the parts I used, I'll add it later. I probably bought them at a local hardware store called "Cliff's." Basically, these are latches with a raised handle and they're meant to keep a door or gate shut. But I installed them backwards, so that the handle is positioned over the plexiglass, not the latch itself (which is too low to fit over the plexiglass), and then I use small foam shims under the handle to push against the plexiglass. You can see the latch in the video at 4:55. I still have the clips at the top (I recommend 2), and then on the left side, I have a connector to the center piece of plexiglass. And of course, on the bottom, the plexi is just sitting on the windowsill. One thing about these plexiglass window inserts: they are very weathertight. There are a few days per year that get obnoxiously hot, so you might want to remove the plexi and open the window. But in the winter, they keep cold air from leaking in and warm air from leaking out, and it will probably help you save a lot on heating bills.
@@nomadyesmad4875 Wouldn't you be blocking all the light out if you did that? How much of the space would be filled by the pillow? Is the idea to absorb some of the noise that passes from outside into the airspace? The success of a window insert is from the gap in the airspace itself, which helps to reduce the noise. Why not add the plexiglass first and see how effective it is, then see if it gets better or worse with a pillow stuff inside?
@@soundproofist Proofist, I am having another horrible experience with customer service, As we know there isn't any nowadays. No matter how nice I am, C-S people are so rude and downright vengeful. It must be the State I live in. I was put through major stress with Macy's for 8 months just to buy a sofa that was crafted to a decent expected condition. Just unreal. The Tap Plastic older guy was horrible as well confirmed by people I talk to about it. Was quite mum about if it would fit in my car and didn't want to say anything it seemed to lose a purchase. I gave him the rough opening measurements and said " I need extra space on the sides " to install it. He said he would give an extra 1/2 inch. I trusted his experience with others who have done this, but am now disappointed he didn't ask how much I wanted. I have had pain issues for years and went along with it to discover when I sat it on the window ledge. The window is out of square so I'm getting a small gap of 4 inches at the top left-side and bottom right-side. I bought vinyl foam tape 1 1/4" wide and 3/16" thick and screen clips, but I'm not sure how I should seal it not having the foam tape width on the sides of the plexi like how Mike's video showed. The window is basically 3ft. wide and 5ft. tall. Sorry for the long details. I'm just having a time with it and nobody to help me, especially the lifting. I have to just do it and then deal with the pain it gives me. I really appreciate your opinion about it. Thanks
@@nomadyesmad4875 I'm sorry you had a bad experience with TAP. If I understand correctly, you wanted to install the plexiglass on the outside of the window frame (not inside the frame). Is that correct? And the person at TAP Plastic cut the plexiglass so that it was only 1/2-inch wider than the window opening (in each direction, or total)? On the large window in my apartment, I had the plexiglass cut to be 1.5 inches taller than the window opening. The plexiglass sits on the windowsill, so the entire extra 1.5 inches in height extends above the window opening at the top. On the sides, the panel on the far left and the far right also extend 1.5 to 2 inches beyond the window opening. If you have a gap of 4 inches (on the sides or the height?) the first thing that comes to mind, which is a bit of a funky work-around, might be to buy an additional piece of plexiglass that's at least six inches wide (I'm guessing on these dimensions, please check) and place it next to the one you bought already, connected with an H-shaped joiner, which is also sold by TAP Plastics. The additional piece of plexiglass should be same thickness as the piece you have already. Make sure it is also tall enough to clear the top of the window opening with additional space to secure it against the wall. Make sure the width of the new piece is enough so that when you place it next to the piece you bought already, the entire plexiglass (both pieces) extends at least 1.5 inches on either side of the window opening to completely cover the opening and extends far enough to install clips to hold it in place. And if your window is 5 feet tall, the piece should be at least 61.5 inches tall (5 feet plus at least 1.5 inches of clearance). Yes, you will have a seam on one side of your window (where the two pieces connect, vertically) but this is probably better than having a 4-inch gap or wasting the large piece of plexiglass that you bought already. Someone else reading these comments might also have another work-around idea -- many of the people who post here are smart and helpful and have really good suggestions.
Have you tried leaf rain gutter covers? They have some made of plastic and some probably aluminum. They are perforated. Also, has anyone told you remind them of Susan Sarandon. ✌
I haven't tried rain gutter covers, but that's a great idea! It's the right concept (perforated exterior with a space inside to capture and diffuse noise). And to your second question....yes, I've had people say this to me before!
You might want to try a sound meter app on your phone for doing before/after testing. This assumes that you have a sufficiently constant din to make comparisons valid. Alternatively you could set up a loudspeaker outside your window to generate a test sound.
Oh, I use sound meters a lot, both smartphone and handheld. You'll see them in a lot of my other videos. Some reasons why I didn't this time, not yet: 1) I've only made one absorber so far, and I don't think I'll see a notable difference until I have at least 2 or 3 in absorbers inside the window frame, 2) because low-frequency noise comes through the walls and not just the window, some noise will still get picked up by the sound meter even when I finish the window, which will skew the results, and 3) I'm still looking for a resource to buy a small amount of micro-perforated metal, because I'd really like to try that on the long part of the frame along the windowsill (94 inches). Maybe a better experiment will be in the room where I have double-drywall, in the back of the apartment. So the only weak link in that room is the window, and I haven't put plexiglass over that window yet, either.
Possibly not enough, and it also depends on your walls and other aspects of your home. 4.5mm (0.17 inch) is thinner than 1/4 inch (0.25 inch, or 6.35mm), which is what I used on my windows. And car-engine noise can be one of the harder frequencies to minimize, even with 6.35mm. Is this the only thickness of plexiglass available to you?
@@M.lizz1 A thinner piece of plexiglass could flex, which would make it less effective against certain noises. I'm not sure if sandwiching two pieces of plexiglass will be effective. The noise reduction comes from the mass of the extra plexi, plus an air gap between the original window and the plexiglass. I understand budget constraints -- did you see our list of plastic suppliers on the Soundproofist website?
The depth of the cavity in between the window and window plug is what gives you the dead space and attenuates the noise. The more depth you have the less mass you need.
In my case, it doesn't affect what I actually hear in the living room, because my walls are thin and a lot of traffic noise comes through them. I've been procrastinating on setting up a frequency test (inserting a microphone between the plexiglass and the original window and connecting it to a noise meter), testing with and without the DIY absorbers, to see if it makes a measurable difference inside the window frame. Thanks for the reminder.
I think you mean "noise" and not "moose"? Or maybe you live someplace like Canada, and need to block actual moose(s) from your window? Either way, some yoga mats are made from E.V.A. and they might be better than no sound mitigation at all, and easy to remove.
@@soundproofist yes noise haha! Phone must have autocorrected. I've put in 2 layers of the yoga mat inside a cardboard styrofoam box. It does seem to help *just* a bit..
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I've made many window plugs for my bedroom and basement windows. The key to success is having a large air gap between the window itself and the window plug. The larger the air gap, the more noise attenuation there will be. My basement window sill is 15" deep and I hear nothing when the window plug is in, not even loud bass penetrates it. My bedroom window only has a 4" gap and I hear a bit more through it. All air gaps between the plug and frame must be sealed air tight, but you already knew that.
One more thing... you have a very nice voice. Very pleasant and easy to listen to. You should consider getting a job narrating audio books.
Yes, deeper window openings (which often come with thicker walls) are super helpful, and I agree that the bigger the air gap, the better the results. My 1950s apartment building is a perfect example of how builders cut corners for several decades, resulting in an acoustical (and indoor heating) nightmare. The gap between the double-paned vinyl windows and the interior wall is only 2 inches. That's the amount of space I have to create an air gap for the plexiglass insert.These windows were retrofitted in -- the original windows were single-paned aluminum. So maybe the original air gap was slightly deeper, but the single-paned windows themselves were about as effective as a T-shirt. There's already a very small gap between the two panes of glass in the vinyl windows, but it's fairly insignificant. I envy you for that 15-inch gap in your basement windows!
I'm thinking about trying the plexiglass and would like to know if you notice any moisture problems in the tightly closed airspace. Mass is the most helpful and considering putting a large sofa pillow given to me not needed on my sofa into the airspace. I'm working with a 3'x5' FT vertical window. also, the hardware store wants to load me up with 3 screen clips on the 3 sides. Tap plastic suggested 1 at the top and 2 on each side. Whatcha think?
I haven't noticed any moisture problems in the air space, and I think I've had this plexiglass installed for about 2 years. The exterior windows are double-paned vinyl windows, retrofitted into what was originally a single-pane aluminum window frame from the 1950s. These vinyl windows are probably 20 years old and they still seem pretty airtight. The space between the two panes in the vinyl windows don't fog up, so neither does the air gap between those windows and the plexiglass sheet. As for the clips: when I first did this project, I used stationary clips on all sides. Then I realized this just made it harder to remove the plexiglass if I needed to. I don't need to remove the plexi from the smaller window. But on the larger window, it's a total hassle to remove a panel to open the window with stationary clips on the side of the plexiglass.
So I replaced the side clips with two inexpensive metal latch/handles. If I can find a link for the parts I used, I'll add it later. I probably bought them at a local hardware store called "Cliff's." Basically, these are latches with a raised handle and they're meant to keep a door or gate shut. But I installed them backwards, so that the handle is positioned over the plexiglass, not the latch itself (which is too low to fit over the plexiglass), and then I use small foam shims under the handle to push against the plexiglass. You can see the latch in the video at 4:55. I still have the clips at the top (I recommend 2), and then on the left side, I have a connector to the center piece of plexiglass. And of course, on the bottom, the plexi is just sitting on the windowsill.
One thing about these plexiglass window inserts: they are very weathertight. There are a few days per year that get obnoxiously hot, so you might want to remove the plexi and open the window. But in the winter, they keep cold air from leaking in and warm air from leaking out, and it will probably help you save a lot on heating bills.
@@soundproofist Thank You for your detailed reply, I'm still wondering what you think of the sofa pillow idea in the airspace to add mass?
@@nomadyesmad4875 Wouldn't you be blocking all the light out if you did that? How much of the space would be filled by the pillow? Is the idea to absorb some of the noise that passes from outside into the airspace? The success of a window insert is from the gap in the airspace itself, which helps to reduce the noise. Why not add the plexiglass first and see how effective it is, then see if it gets better or worse with a pillow stuff inside?
@@soundproofist Proofist, I am having another horrible experience with customer service, As we know there isn't any nowadays. No matter how nice I am, C-S people are so rude and downright vengeful. It must be the State I live in. I was put through major stress with Macy's for 8 months just to buy a sofa that was crafted to a decent expected condition. Just unreal. The Tap Plastic older guy was horrible as well confirmed by people I talk to about it. Was quite mum about if it would fit in my car and didn't want to say anything it seemed to lose a purchase. I gave him the rough opening measurements and said " I need extra space on the sides " to install it. He said he would give an extra 1/2 inch. I trusted his experience with others who have done this, but am now disappointed he didn't ask how much I wanted. I have had pain issues for years and went along with it to discover when I sat it on the window ledge. The window is out of square so I'm getting a small gap of 4 inches at the top left-side and bottom right-side. I bought vinyl foam tape 1 1/4" wide and 3/16" thick and screen clips, but I'm not sure how I should seal it not having the foam tape width on the sides of the plexi like how Mike's video showed. The window is basically 3ft. wide and 5ft. tall. Sorry for the long details. I'm just having a time with it and nobody to help me, especially the lifting. I have to just do it and then deal with the pain it gives me. I really appreciate your opinion about it. Thanks
@@nomadyesmad4875 I'm sorry you had a bad experience with TAP. If I understand correctly, you wanted to install the plexiglass on the outside of the window frame (not inside the frame). Is that correct? And the person at TAP Plastic cut the plexiglass so that it was only 1/2-inch wider than the window opening (in each direction, or total)? On the large window in my apartment, I had the plexiglass cut to be 1.5 inches taller than the window opening. The plexiglass sits on the windowsill, so the entire extra 1.5 inches in height extends above the window opening at the top. On the sides, the panel on the far left and the far right also extend 1.5 to 2 inches beyond the window opening. If you have a gap of 4 inches (on the sides or the height?) the first thing that comes to mind, which is a bit of a funky work-around, might be to buy an additional piece of plexiglass that's at least six inches wide (I'm guessing on these dimensions, please check) and place it next to the one you bought already, connected with an H-shaped joiner, which is also sold by TAP Plastics. The additional piece of plexiglass should be same thickness as the piece you have already. Make sure it is also tall enough to clear the top of the window opening with additional space to secure it against the wall. Make sure the width of the new piece is enough so that when you place it next to the piece you bought already, the entire plexiglass (both pieces) extends at least 1.5 inches on either side of the window opening to completely cover the opening and extends far enough to install clips to hold it in place. And if your window is 5 feet tall, the piece should be at least 61.5 inches tall (5 feet plus at least 1.5 inches of clearance). Yes, you will have a seam on one side of your window (where the two pieces connect, vertically) but this is probably better than having a 4-inch gap or wasting the large piece of plexiglass that you bought already. Someone else reading these comments might also have another work-around idea -- many of the people who post here are smart and helpful and have really good suggestions.
Have you tried leaf rain gutter covers? They have some made of plastic and some probably aluminum. They are perforated. Also, has anyone told you remind them of Susan Sarandon. ✌
I haven't tried rain gutter covers, but that's a great idea! It's the right concept (perforated exterior with a space inside to capture and diffuse noise). And to your second question....yes, I've had people say this to me before!
You might want to try a sound meter app on your phone for doing before/after testing. This assumes that you have a sufficiently constant din to make comparisons valid. Alternatively you could set up a loudspeaker outside your window to generate a test sound.
Oh, I use sound meters a lot, both smartphone and handheld. You'll see them in a lot of my other videos. Some reasons why I didn't this time, not yet: 1) I've only made one absorber so far, and I don't think I'll see a notable difference until I have at least 2 or 3 in absorbers inside the window frame, 2) because low-frequency noise comes through the walls and not just the window, some noise will still get picked up by the sound meter even when I finish the window, which will skew the results, and 3) I'm still looking for a resource to buy a small amount of micro-perforated metal, because I'd really like to try that on the long part of the frame along the windowsill (94 inches). Maybe a better experiment will be in the room where I have double-drywall, in the back of the apartment. So the only weak link in that room is the window, and I haven't put plexiglass over that window yet, either.
Thank you. :-)
You're welcome!
Would a 4.5 mm thickness plexiglass be strong enough to mitigate vibrations from engines and other traffic noise?
Possibly not enough, and it also depends on your walls and other aspects of your home. 4.5mm (0.17 inch) is thinner than 1/4 inch (0.25 inch, or 6.35mm), which is what I used on my windows. And car-engine noise can be one of the harder frequencies to minimize, even with 6.35mm. Is this the only thickness of plexiglass available to you?
@@soundproofist is the only cheapest option.... But I guess I buy 2 pieces
@@M.lizz1 A thinner piece of plexiglass could flex, which would make it less effective against certain noises. I'm not sure if sandwiching two pieces of plexiglass will be effective. The noise reduction comes from the mass of the extra plexi, plus an air gap between the original window and the plexiglass. I understand budget constraints -- did you see our list of plastic suppliers on the Soundproofist website?
The depth of the cavity in between the window and window plug is what gives you the dead space and attenuates the noise. The more depth you have the less mass you need.
Thanks for video, this gives me a great idea
You're welcome! Glad this gave you some good ideas -- that's my goal!
So, did it help? Or no?
In my case, it doesn't affect what I actually hear in the living room, because my walls are thin and a lot of traffic noise comes through them. I've been procrastinating on setting up a frequency test (inserting a microphone between the plexiglass and the original window and connecting it to a noise meter), testing with and without the DIY absorbers, to see if it makes a measurable difference inside the window frame. Thanks for the reminder.
thank you ...i am on it
You're awesome
Thank you!
This may sound unorthodox but I've been using yoga mats to block moose from my window lol. I can't afford mass loaded vinyl and such
I think you mean "noise" and not "moose"? Or maybe you live someplace like Canada, and need to block actual moose(s) from your window? Either way, some yoga mats are made from E.V.A. and they might be better than no sound mitigation at all, and easy to remove.
@@soundproofist yes noise haha! Phone must have autocorrected. I've put in 2 layers of the yoga mat inside a cardboard styrofoam box. It does seem to help *just* a bit..