This is the dilemma. Especially for renters. Often the neighbor who creates the noise is not willing to help solve the issue. But the most-effective solutions are at the noise source (the neighbor) and not in your apartment. If you rent, you can't do construction to make a thicker wall. Sometimes you get lucky and a neighbor is willing to compromise if you give them something for free, like anti-vibration pads to go under a machine, or panels to put on their wall, or a rug pad. But, sometimes they're not.
Awesome video thank you! What do you think would be best for the inside of a computer case with high pitched noises (not fan vibrations but coil whine from graphics card)?
I probably have more questions than answers. When you say "computer case," do you mean a desktop computer (versus a laptop)? How big is the case? My first thought is any kind of dampening might increase the heat inside the case. Maybe creating a larger box that with perforations/vents that fits over the computer could help reduce the noise, but again, you don't want to overheat your gear. You've probably seen this video, which is basically about using more technology to try to reduce it. (Or contact the manufacturer) ruclips.net/video/jtXAuIJchps/видео.html
I'm not sure if you mean ALL types of clogs, or if there's a brand of shoes called "Cloggs" that are made of foam. In general, I think most clog-type shoes have heavier soles, sometimes even made of wood. BUT I've seen that some shoes seem to have much softer soles on them, and I'm not sure what the materials are made from. I have a pair of very "cloud-like" sandals that are made from some kind of foam, and I think they reduce impact noise. (And they're very comfortable to walk on.) There are also more types of "barefoot shoes" that seem to have flexible and soft soles. I think it all depends on the brand. You have the right idea to wear open-backed shoes in the house (to keep your heel bone from hitting the floor first), but I think most clog-type shoes could turn out to be very noisy in the apartment.
I have a question. I live in a condominium complex and the walls are very thin basically only some sheets of drywall and the studs separate us and she is always yelling at us to keep it down even when we are just having a normal volume conversation. anyway I was looking into getting foam to stick on the wall that separates us, I just don't know what kind to get. I was thinking of 4 inch Acoustic Foam Pyramid Style Panels made of open cell polyurethane. All I need to do is soundproof our side of the condo, so which material should I stick to our walls? Neoprene, Polyurethane, or polyethylene?
The open-cell foam panels aren't going to stop your sound waves from going into the wall and into your neighbor's apartment. They're meant for softening the acoustics for audio recording (to reduce echo and bounce). Typically, you need more mass (something more solid) combined with absorption (closed-cell foam or insulation) and some resiliency (decoupling with resilient channel, or a cheap workaround like adding a second layer of drywall over the existing drywall, with a layer of Green Glue inbetween). Some soundproofing experts disagree with me about the Green Glue/double drywall, but if it's just conversation noise and not deep bass or impact noise --- and if you own the condo, and you're not a renter -- this is something you can consider.
@@soundproofist Thank you so much for getting back to me. I have been doing a lot of research and there are so many products that advertise as "soundproofing" but the more I look into it only very few materials actually are, for what I can do in my condo. I am the owner, so I will look into doing what you suggested.
I have an explanation, though not a good one. I recorded the original video and spoke into the microphone while I was showing the products. But it was unscripted and I said "um, uh" so many times and made other mistakes, so that if I edited my dialogue, the video would look too jumpy. So I simply recorded a separate voiceover and put it over the video. As for the Fahrenheit, many of the viewers are in the US, which uses Fahrenheit, and sometimes I make an online conversion to Celsius and mention both, but I guess I didn't in this video. About your "what size is a square" question, I'm not sure what you're asking?
Thanks for your response @@soundproofist. It’s all fine, no need to explain, although it’s nice to get a bit of insight into the making of it. The video is quite well done regardless. Funny what it does to your brain when what you see doesn’t match with what you hear. 🙂 Yes, most of the world uses Celsius (you know it’s simple, water freezes at 0 and boils at 100, but I guess it’s what you’re used to) that’s why is it always kind of upsets me when I have to pause the video and do the conversion. Never mind about the square, l misunderstood. Thanks for all the good work you put into this. Gave me a good overview into the subject matter.
@@moz9357 Thank you! And your comment made me check the stats. It looks like only half the viewers of this channel live in the USA, so I really should be using Celsius and the metric system equally with Fahrenheit and US measurements on all the videos.
I have put Alubutyl in my car's doors, for reducing engine-caused vibrations. I want to add a kind of foam for the external air-born noise. I read that open cell foam holds moisture and rusts the doors. Is it true? Is the closed cell water-proof? Is close cell made only from Polyethylene, but not from other chemicals?
Open-cell foam isn't going to block external noise -- it's too porous and light. Closed-cell foam would be a better choice. It's not completely waterproof, but it's "water-resistant". I'm not sure what other chemicals might be in different closed-cell foam products. Maybe the product's website might answer that?
@@soundproofist thank you for your response. I am digging the internet for information, but there is too much confusion, misinformation and contradicting opinions. By other chemicals, i mean polypropylene, isoprene, all these types of synthetic rubber, polyester fibers , felt, synthetic wool. It is a mess of information about sound dampening
@@billonious Yes, there's a lot of confusing information out there. I know there are some companies that make adhesive-backed sound-deadening panels for the inside of car doors, etc... they're very heavy and probably similar to what you used. But I don't know what chemicals are in them. And there are more healthful insulation materials like recycled denim batts and cellulose, but those are not appropriate for the interior of a car, which might get damp. Seems like natural rubber might also be helpful and more healthy. Just a random search pulled this up on a Home Depot site, but I'm not sure what your needs and specs are, exactly: www.homedepot.com/p/Rubber-Cal-Recycled-Rubber-60A-Sheets-and-Rolls-3-8-in-T-x-4-in-W-x-4-in-L-Black-Rubber-Garage-Flooring-5-Pack-21-102-AB-04-004-5pk/314439977
When you say "drum," do you mean like a big bass drum (Low-frequency "boom")? Or an actual tapping noise? What kind of noises cause the drum effect, and have you reduced some types of noise, but not others?
@@miniioe This has been my experience, too. I figured that my deep noise problem was more than just the windows, but also the walls. The windows were the easiest and cheapest to tackle first. The inserts I made reduce or eliminate conversation noise and distant noise (more than 50 feet away). So they're not useless, but they're not a complete solution. I'm glad I didn't spend thousands of dollars on custom-made window inserts, because of the bass noise. My building is very close to the street and there's been an increase in construction trucks, delivery trucks, etc. and they all have very loud engines. They're so close to the building when they drive by. So that's going right through the 2x4s in the building frame in front. I think, unfortunately, the front interior walls need to be removed and soundproofing done inside of them before putting the walls back. Ideally, decoupling the drywall from the studs, because there's a lot of wood framing around the windows that can't be soundproofed other than separating them from the drywall. But this will mean some reconstruction of other adjacent parts of the front room that touch those walls. You can bet that if I ever get the budget for this major project, I'll document the whole thing on RUclips.
Can any of nowadays construction spray foams be used on car's noise cancelation? How's the sound proofing ability 😮😊 just curious about the possibility as they looks pretty light and soft.
I don't think you want to spray foam inside your car. There are products you can buy to deaden the sound inside, but they're typically pretty heavy, with an adhesive backing. That's because most of the sound you probably want to block is low-frequency noise, so you need more weight and mass. Typically these products get applied on the floor of the car or the trunk, under the carpet/mat.
I've never been asked this before, but I have two suggestions. The first is to line the interior of the crate (if it's mostly solid plastic) with sound-dampening, adhesive-backed foam sheets like "Quiet Barrier": www.soundproofcow.com/product/quiet-barrier%C2%AD-md-soundproofing-material-sheet/. This should absorb some of the noise inside the create, but of course, you need openings for your dog to get air, which also means some sound will escape. If your dog crate is a wire cage (no plastic walls, just open) and you can't insulate the walls, or if you just want to add an extra layer around the crate (after adding absorption to the plastic walls inside), consider also adding getting an external cover for it, where you can roll up parts of it to create an open window: www.coversandall.com/patio-furniture-covers/outdoor-lifestyle-covers/custom-dog-crate-cover-p
I have another question sorry - if i were to use a plexiglass, what would i need to stick it on to the glass? Given my plexiglass is smaller than thr the frame itself. Something adhesive but won't ruin the window? Thanks 🙏
You don't put the plexiglass directly onto the existing window glass, if I understand your question correctly. You need to have a gap between the existing pane of glass and any new pane of glass or plexi. This is true also in double-paned windows -- there's a gap between pane #1 and pane #2. If you've already cut the plexi, and it's smaller than the inner dimensions of the window frame, you should make a frame around the plexi so that you can wedge it into the window frame opening, but not touching the original window. Kind of a plug. It should be as snug inside the window frame as possible. I tried to do that with the first piece of plexiglass that I made (in the video) but my dimensions were imperfect, so it fit well at the bottom of the inside window frame, but not at the top. I think it worked out better for me to make the plexiglass pieces larger than the window opening and put them tightly against the drywall. But this only works in homes like mine, that don't have proper wooden frames around the windows -- we have a windowsill, but the rest of of the window is just a cut hole in the drywall (no frame around it).
Thanks for that clarification. I do talk in some videos about source--path-receiver, and they usually require different solutions. Foam products are going to be more helpful at the source (acoustic treatment of a room that you're in or dampening noise from equipment that you use) or maybe on the path (the path that the noise travels on before it gets to you), but it is unlikely to be effective for most "receiver" situations (when you're the recipient of external noise coming in).
It does sound a bit monstrous, but that was kind of intentional. The idea was to simulate how something normal can sound really bad (with a lot of bass) when it comes through your wall from outside. Maybe it's time for a new intro, though?
With rent so high, the only option is Room For Rent, and sometimes a neighbour who has a TV or is loud you def need this
This is the dilemma. Especially for renters. Often the neighbor who creates the noise is not willing to help solve the issue. But the most-effective solutions are at the noise source (the neighbor) and not in your apartment. If you rent, you can't do construction to make a thicker wall. Sometimes you get lucky and a neighbor is willing to compromise if you give them something for free, like anti-vibration pads to go under a machine, or panels to put on their wall, or a rug pad. But, sometimes they're not.
Thank you! I really appreciate your dedication and hard work you made by making this video. Kudos!
You're welcome! Hope it's helpful to you!
Good video. Very informative
Glad it was helpful!
Wonderful video! Very clear, concise, and most of all, informative. It’s a shame the cat isn’t included, but I understand😸
Awesome video thank you! What do you think would be best for the inside of a computer case with high pitched noises (not fan vibrations but coil whine from graphics card)?
I probably have more questions than answers. When you say "computer case," do you mean a desktop computer (versus a laptop)? How big is the case? My first thought is any kind of dampening might increase the heat inside the case. Maybe creating a larger box that with perforations/vents that fits over the computer could help reduce the noise, but again, you don't want to overheat your gear. You've probably seen this video, which is basically about using more technology to try to reduce it. (Or contact the manufacturer) ruclips.net/video/jtXAuIJchps/видео.html
What type of foam are cloggs shoes made of? 😊Just to get a an idea.
I'm not sure if you mean ALL types of clogs, or if there's a brand of shoes called "Cloggs" that are made of foam. In general, I think most clog-type shoes have heavier soles, sometimes even made of wood. BUT I've seen that some shoes seem to have much softer soles on them, and I'm not sure what the materials are made from. I have a pair of very "cloud-like" sandals that are made from some kind of foam, and I think they reduce impact noise. (And they're very comfortable to walk on.) There are also more types of "barefoot shoes" that seem to have flexible and soft soles. I think it all depends on the brand. You have the right idea to wear open-backed shoes in the house (to keep your heel bone from hitting the floor first), but I think most clog-type shoes could turn out to be very noisy in the apartment.
I mean the soft, light, foam-type cloggs. I wear them at home and, luckily, my neigbors have never complained! @@soundproofist
@@anaesterhazy631 Those sound like they're OK! They sound like my "foam" sandals and those are really quiet.
I have a question. I live in a condominium complex and the walls are very thin basically only some sheets of drywall and the studs separate us and she is always yelling at us to keep it down even when we are just having a normal volume conversation. anyway I was looking into getting foam to stick on the wall that separates us, I just don't know what kind to get. I was thinking of 4 inch Acoustic Foam Pyramid Style Panels made of open cell polyurethane. All I need to do is soundproof our side of the condo, so which material should I stick to our walls? Neoprene, Polyurethane, or polyethylene?
The open-cell foam panels aren't going to stop your sound waves from going into the wall and into your neighbor's apartment. They're meant for softening the acoustics for audio recording (to reduce echo and bounce). Typically, you need more mass (something more solid) combined with absorption (closed-cell foam or insulation) and some resiliency (decoupling with resilient channel, or a cheap workaround like adding a second layer of drywall over the existing drywall, with a layer of Green Glue inbetween). Some soundproofing experts disagree with me about the Green Glue/double drywall, but if it's just conversation noise and not deep bass or impact noise --- and if you own the condo, and you're not a renter -- this is something you can consider.
@@soundproofist Thank you so much for getting back to me. I have been doing a lot of research and there are so many products that advertise as "soundproofing" but the more I look into it only very few materials actually are, for what I can do in my condo. I am the owner, so I will look into doing what you suggested.
It is so weird if someone moves their lips and someone else talks. I can’t look. Also why Fahrenheit, and what size is a square?
I have an explanation, though not a good one. I recorded the original video and spoke into the microphone while I was showing the products. But it was unscripted and I said "um, uh" so many times and made other mistakes, so that if I edited my dialogue, the video would look too jumpy. So I simply recorded a separate voiceover and put it over the video. As for the Fahrenheit, many of the viewers are in the US, which uses Fahrenheit, and sometimes I make an online conversion to Celsius and mention both, but I guess I didn't in this video. About your "what size is a square" question, I'm not sure what you're asking?
Thanks for your response @@soundproofist. It’s all fine, no need to explain, although it’s nice to get a bit of insight into the making of it. The video is quite well done regardless. Funny what it does to your brain when what you see doesn’t match with what you hear. 🙂
Yes, most of the world uses Celsius (you know it’s simple, water freezes at 0 and boils at 100, but I guess it’s what you’re used to) that’s why is it always kind of upsets me when I have to pause the video and do the conversion.
Never mind about the square, l misunderstood.
Thanks for all the good work you put into this. Gave me a good overview into the subject matter.
@@moz9357 Thank you! And your comment made me check the stats. It looks like only half the viewers of this channel live in the USA, so I really should be using Celsius and the metric system equally with Fahrenheit and US measurements on all the videos.
@@soundproofist good on you. I am actually surprised that you have such a proportionally large subscriber base in the US.
Very helpful, thanks so much!
You’re welcome!
I have put Alubutyl in my car's doors, for reducing engine-caused vibrations. I want to add a kind of foam for the external air-born noise. I read that open cell foam holds moisture and rusts the doors. Is it true? Is the closed cell water-proof? Is close cell made only from Polyethylene, but not from other chemicals?
Open-cell foam isn't going to block external noise -- it's too porous and light. Closed-cell foam would be a better choice. It's not completely waterproof, but it's "water-resistant". I'm not sure what other chemicals might be in different closed-cell foam products. Maybe the product's website might answer that?
@@soundproofist thank you for your response. I am digging the internet for information, but there is too much confusion, misinformation and contradicting opinions. By other chemicals, i mean polypropylene, isoprene, all these types of synthetic rubber, polyester fibers , felt, synthetic wool. It is a mess of information about sound dampening
@@billonious Yes, there's a lot of confusing information out there. I know there are some companies that make adhesive-backed sound-deadening panels for the inside of car doors, etc... they're very heavy and probably similar to what you used. But I don't know what chemicals are in them. And there are more healthful insulation materials like recycled denim batts and cellulose, but those are not appropriate for the interior of a car, which might get damp. Seems like natural rubber might also be helpful and more healthy. Just a random search pulled this up on a Home Depot site, but I'm not sure what your needs and specs are, exactly: www.homedepot.com/p/Rubber-Cal-Recycled-Rubber-60A-Sheets-and-Rolls-3-8-in-T-x-4-in-W-x-4-in-L-Black-Rubber-Garage-Flooring-5-Pack-21-102-AB-04-004-5pk/314439977
I bought a new window but it still has this drum effect whenever noises enter. It is so annoying - how do i get rid of this sound?
When you say "drum," do you mean like a big bass drum (Low-frequency "boom")? Or an actual tapping noise? What kind of noises cause the drum effect, and have you reduced some types of noise, but not others?
@@soundproofist like a low frequency bass sound. Whenever cars go by
@@miniioe This has been my experience, too. I figured that my deep noise problem was more than just the windows, but also the walls. The windows were the easiest and cheapest to tackle first. The inserts I made reduce or eliminate conversation noise and distant noise (more than 50 feet away). So they're not useless, but they're not a complete solution. I'm glad I didn't spend thousands of dollars on custom-made window inserts, because of the bass noise. My building is very close to the street and there's been an increase in construction trucks, delivery trucks, etc. and they all have very loud engines. They're so close to the building when they drive by. So that's going right through the 2x4s in the building frame in front. I think, unfortunately, the front interior walls need to be removed and soundproofing done inside of them before putting the walls back. Ideally, decoupling the drywall from the studs, because there's a lot of wood framing around the windows that can't be soundproofed other than separating them from the drywall. But this will mean some reconstruction of other adjacent parts of the front room that touch those walls. You can bet that if I ever get the budget for this major project, I'll document the whole thing on RUclips.
Can any of nowadays construction spray foams be used on car's noise cancelation? How's the sound proofing ability 😮😊 just curious about the possibility as they looks pretty light and soft.
I don't think you want to spray foam inside your car. There are products you can buy to deaden the sound inside, but they're typically pretty heavy, with an adhesive backing. That's because most of the sound you probably want to block is low-frequency noise, so you need more weight and mass. Typically these products get applied on the floor of the car or the trunk, under the carpet/mat.
I need to sound proof my pet dog for his crate cause bark too much.. Which foam do you recommend? And link please
I've never been asked this before, but I have two suggestions. The first is to line the interior of the crate (if it's mostly solid plastic) with sound-dampening, adhesive-backed foam sheets like "Quiet Barrier": www.soundproofcow.com/product/quiet-barrier%C2%AD-md-soundproofing-material-sheet/. This should absorb some of the noise inside the create, but of course, you need openings for your dog to get air, which also means some sound will escape. If your dog crate is a wire cage (no plastic walls, just open) and you can't insulate the walls, or if you just want to add an extra layer around the crate (after adding absorption to the plastic walls inside), consider also adding getting an external cover for it, where you can roll up parts of it to create an open window: www.coversandall.com/patio-furniture-covers/outdoor-lifestyle-covers/custom-dog-crate-cover-p
Dogs aren't meant to be caged up in a crate. Think about it, if you were caged, you would be yelling to be let out. Dogs are very emotional creatures.
Thank you
You’re welcome!
I have another question sorry - if i were to use a plexiglass, what would i need to stick it on to the glass? Given my plexiglass is smaller than thr the frame itself. Something adhesive but won't ruin the window? Thanks 🙏
You don't put the plexiglass directly onto the existing window glass, if I understand your question correctly. You need to have a gap between the existing pane of glass and any new pane of glass or plexi. This is true also in double-paned windows -- there's a gap between pane #1 and pane #2. If you've already cut the plexi, and it's smaller than the inner dimensions of the window frame, you should make a frame around the plexi so that you can wedge it into the window frame opening, but not touching the original window. Kind of a plug. It should be as snug inside the window frame as possible. I tried to do that with the first piece of plexiglass that I made (in the video) but my dimensions were imperfect, so it fit well at the bottom of the inside window frame, but not at the top. I think it worked out better for me to make the plexiglass pieces larger than the window opening and put them tightly against the drywall. But this only works in homes like mine, that don't have proper wooden frames around the windows -- we have a windowsill, but the rest of of the window is just a cut hole in the drywall (no frame around it).
word of advice to anyone looking for a material that blocks external sound: that's not covered in this video
Thanks for that clarification. I do talk in some videos about source--path-receiver, and they usually require different solutions. Foam products are going to be more helpful at the source (acoustic treatment of a room that you're in or dampening noise from equipment that you use) or maybe on the path (the path that the noise travels on before it gets to you), but it is unlikely to be effective for most "receiver" situations (when you're the recipient of external noise coming in).
the intro is just creepy, dudes
It does sound a bit monstrous, but that was kind of intentional. The idea was to simulate how something normal can sound really bad (with a lot of bass) when it comes through your wall from outside. Maybe it's time for a new intro, though?