Pretty awesome how they gave us those 83W total USB C/USB A sockets that allow boosting the 12V up to 15V or 20V. For the longest time I looked online and buried in the listing was (24V vehicle only get the 15V and 20V PDO) Going Baseus was the only route and now they have a 100W car charger and the 160W charger so you can fast charge a phone or tablet while the laptop gets its 100W. Probably won't see PD3.1 speeds in the car right away since boosting 12V to 28V is realllllly inefficient and would pull too many amps. So there are some DC powered 100W and one 120W Power Delivery chargers....but they come as unprotected PCB boards or in an aluminum case (which acts as a good heatsink, DO NOT get any version in an acrylic case, its just an oven for your board). The main store on Alie I use is Feb 22 Store. A nearly identical store I think is their backup is Sep 16 Store. Most of their board are meant for a DIY powerbank in a 3.7V 4S configuration in order to boost 12V-16.8V up to 20V. They have bidirectional C ports so no other charging circuit needs to take up space inside your DIY power bank shell. I had trouble with one of them until I plugged it into a 90W PD charger and charged the cells up for a min that way. Previously I had just unplugged my XT connector to get rid of the board and plugged straight into a hobby charger 120W Bidirectional Full Protocol blah blah blah-Less than $25 fo a buck boost IC and has quite a few parameters you can change with the resistors. So far so good but I haven't put it in a powerbank yet. Buck Boost IC is SC8812A and gets pretty hot, 60C is not uncommon. I think this one might be capable of giving you 5A on every voltage protocol. IP2368 based 100W PD two way blah blah blah: This is a popular one sold by many other stores in an aluminum case. Another two way buck boost. I have one on the way right now. I dont see many differnces between this and the 120W board in terms of function. IP5389 based 100W PD two way blah blah blah: Not sure what the difference is between this and the IP2368. Might be only a 4S pack on this and the other one can do 3S (60W only) to 6S (need to change a transistor for 5S and 6S). I got one of these yesterday but its on a "made for power bank" style board with two other USB ports and a lightning port(why?). Bought from TZT, they were useless in chat and sloooowww to ship but good price ($12) and the board is much more practical to use in a basic shell. 60W PD two way blah blah-not sure what chip this is or if its even a buck boost or just a buck. No point to get this one. Feb 22 also offers acrylic see through powerbanks you kinda build yourself but no soldering or anything. Just put the acrylic sheets together with the provided hardware. Comes with IP5389 and has room for two more boards so you could add two 100's or two 120's or mix them. Now offered in more than an 8 cell. 16 and 24 recently released. Can get in 18650 size or 21700 size. I WOULD NOT GET CELLS FROM THEM. Buy some nice power cells like Molicel P42A or Samsung 40T if you are putting more than 1 board on your power bank. You'll need the amperage of those two cells if you choose the 8 cell model (4S2P). The 16 and 24 are 4P and 6P so you don't need the most powerful cells available to run 3 boards with that many cells in parallel. I would say do not settle for anything less than a 10A continuous cell. Any questions go ahead and ask. These could be converted to run on a power station but keep in mind to pull 100W PD out of a 4S lithium ion pack that charged to 75% means you will pull 7A. At 12V you will pull 10A. Now stretch that out to 3 boards. You might have to pull 30A to get 300W out. This is why I was doing the math for their power banks in the previous paragraph. The smallest size would be pulling 15A per cell and even a 20A rated cell isn't going to like that. You want a 30A cell if you're going to pull 15A out of it otherwise major voltage sag and major shortened life! At $20 a port I think they aren't too expensive. There also exists some buck only options. You have to have at least 20.5V to use the 20V PDO on the SW3518S (The SW3518 is 60W, the SW3518S is 100W). These buck only modules should be more efficient but i dont know. The SW2303 boards have been a dumpster fire for me so far. Own 4 of the cheap blue boards and 1 from Feb 22 and none work. IC gets very hot very quick.
Hi Chaim, yes you could attach an inverter, however, it would need to be pretty small in order for it to fit on the outside of the ammo can but it could be done. Good luck if you end up building one of these !! -Josh
You say the USB C is available anywhere but I can't find them anywhere I did find one at Walmart but it's only 20 watts and expensive 30 dollars each today I found 2 unit builds both with USB C output
Hi Douglas, that's a good point, I shop mostly online so I should have clarified that in the video (sorry for the confusion). There are a ton of them on Amazon for around $30 or less, sometimes cheaper when deals are going on. Here is the link to the one I have (its been working great so far). a.co/d/4hUOOau There seems to be a lot of sales for these items right now online too for Black Friday so a good time to buy! I hope this helps and good luck ! -Josh
Very nice job. Great build! 👍👍👍
Pretty awesome how they gave us those 83W total USB C/USB A sockets that allow boosting the 12V up to 15V or 20V. For the longest time I looked online and buried in the listing was (24V vehicle only get the 15V and 20V PDO)
Going Baseus was the only route and now they have a 100W car charger and the 160W charger so you can fast charge a phone or tablet while the laptop gets its 100W. Probably won't see PD3.1 speeds in the car right away since boosting 12V to 28V is realllllly inefficient and would pull too many amps.
So there are some DC powered 100W and one 120W Power Delivery chargers....but they come as unprotected PCB boards or in an aluminum case (which acts as a good heatsink, DO NOT get any version in an acrylic case, its just an oven for your board). The main store on Alie I use is Feb 22 Store. A nearly identical store I think is their backup is Sep 16 Store. Most of their board are meant for a DIY powerbank in a 3.7V 4S configuration in order to boost 12V-16.8V up to 20V. They have bidirectional C ports so no other charging circuit needs to take up space inside your DIY power bank shell. I had trouble with one of them until I plugged it into a 90W PD charger and charged the cells up for a min that way. Previously I had just unplugged my XT connector to get rid of the board and plugged straight into a hobby charger
120W Bidirectional Full Protocol blah blah blah-Less than $25 fo a buck boost IC and has quite a few parameters you can change with the resistors. So far so good but I haven't put it in a powerbank yet. Buck Boost IC is SC8812A and gets pretty hot, 60C is not uncommon. I think this one might be capable of giving you 5A on every voltage protocol.
IP2368 based 100W PD two way blah blah blah: This is a popular one sold by many other stores in an aluminum case. Another two way buck boost. I have one on the way right now. I dont see many differnces between this and the 120W board in terms of function.
IP5389 based 100W PD two way blah blah blah: Not sure what the difference is between this and the IP2368. Might be only a 4S pack on this and the other one can do 3S (60W only) to 6S (need to change a transistor for 5S and 6S). I got one of these yesterday but its on a "made for power bank" style board with two other USB ports and a lightning port(why?). Bought from TZT, they were useless in chat and sloooowww to ship but good price ($12) and the board is much more practical to use in a basic shell.
60W PD two way blah blah-not sure what chip this is or if its even a buck boost or just a buck. No point to get this one.
Feb 22 also offers acrylic see through powerbanks you kinda build yourself but no soldering or anything. Just put the acrylic sheets together with the provided hardware. Comes with IP5389 and has room for two more boards so you could add two 100's or two 120's or mix them. Now offered in more than an 8 cell. 16 and 24 recently released. Can get in 18650 size or 21700 size. I WOULD NOT GET CELLS FROM THEM. Buy some nice power cells like Molicel P42A or Samsung 40T if you are putting more than 1 board on your power bank. You'll need the amperage of those two cells if you choose the 8 cell model (4S2P). The 16 and 24 are 4P and 6P so you don't need the most powerful cells available to run 3 boards with that many cells in parallel. I would say do not settle for anything less than a 10A continuous cell.
Any questions go ahead and ask. These could be converted to run on a power station but keep in mind to pull 100W PD out of a 4S lithium ion pack that charged to 75% means you will pull 7A. At 12V you will pull 10A. Now stretch that out to 3 boards. You might have to pull 30A to get 300W out. This is why I was doing the math for their power banks in the previous paragraph. The smallest size would be pulling 15A per cell and even a 20A rated cell isn't going to like that. You want a 30A cell if you're going to pull 15A out of it otherwise major voltage sag and major shortened life!
At $20 a port I think they aren't too expensive.
There also exists some buck only options. You have to have at least 20.5V to use the 20V PDO on the SW3518S (The SW3518 is 60W, the SW3518S is 100W). These buck only modules should be more efficient but i dont know.
The SW2303 boards have been a dumpster fire for me so far. Own 4 of the cheap blue boards and 1 from Feb 22 and none work. IC gets very hot very quick.
Hi Erick! Thank you for all of this information !!!
Could you attach an inverter on the outside?
This is an awesome build, I may try to do it
Hi Chaim, yes you could attach an inverter, however, it would need to be pretty small in order for it to fit on the outside of the ammo can but it could be done. Good luck if you end up building one of these !!
-Josh
@@oh2bfr337 i think those ammo cans come in a few larger sizes. it would be fun to see a small inverter hooked to this
That's a good point ! I might try that in a future video !! I agree, that would be fun !
You say the USB C is available anywhere but I can't find them anywhere I did find one at Walmart but it's only 20 watts and expensive 30 dollars each today I found 2 unit builds both with USB C output
Hi Douglas, that's a good point, I shop mostly online so I should have clarified that in the video (sorry for the confusion). There are a ton of them on Amazon for around $30 or less, sometimes cheaper when deals are going on. Here is the link to the one I have (its been working great so far).
a.co/d/4hUOOau
There seems to be a lot of sales for these items right now online too for Black Friday so a good time to buy! I hope this helps and good luck !
-Josh