Nearly all the people commenting here dont know, or understand, artist materials. This is the most traditional preparation of linen painting canvas on all of RUclips. Before all the modern art supply companies & factories, this is exactly how it was done.
great video, but if you use a curved edge blade instead of the flat edge priming knife that you use, you don't get those annoying ridges between strokes that have to be sanded or smoothed out (I use a large curved edge cake spatula that looks like a double sized credit card with one edge curved out, bought from my local super market). I have also seen old pictures from painting manuscripts that show a large curved edge metal priming blade used i imagine for this reason.
Azad Rasam Or making your own brushes. You make a good point, my friend. I do think that one benefit of at least priming your own canvas, is that you are in control of the sort of surface and texture you will be painting on, which can make all the difference for some painters.
I really love your work and David A Leffel too but it seems to me that applying the glue size that way is not a good idea (as far as a I know it should be applied thinly not hot but lukewarm for the canvases and may be applied hot on panels and boards. The books ( The artist’s handbook of materials and techniques by Ralph Mayer , Artist’s Manual by Collins and Mark David Gottsegen book “Revised and expanded- The painter’s handbook- will help.l watch on you tube that everybody is showing how they size and prime their painting supports ,mostly of them wrong so be careful guys learn just from reliable sources .
Using the flake white on a prepared canvas like that is just beyond me..why would you do that? I have been painting intensely for over 10 year and never did that..if you want a white surface just mix in white chalk in the glue when you're heating it up (also the glue application is bad,it should not be in gelatine form but liquid) and that gives you a white surface,if you want it more smoothed out you just sand it down and that's it.
stojanovich chalk in glue is called traditional gesso, this is brittle and cracks very quickly on canvas it is not suitable for application on flexible supports. It should only be used on a rigid support. The safest option here, if someone insists on using RSG as a glue size, which has been shown to be one of the leading causes of cracking, due to it's hygroscopic nature and that of linen opposing expansion and contraction, instead of buffered ph neutral pva glue or gac 100 200, would be to glue the linen to a rigid support. A lead oil ground is something completely different from just flake white thinned down with mineral spirits. It contains a certain percentage of chalk and bodied oils. Safest option here would be to buy commercial lead oil ground (rublev for example) making your own is possible, but without roller mills, your home mulled paint and grounds will always have much more oil in them than the artist's quality paints that you use on top of them, breaking the fat over lean rule. Also be mindful that if you do decide to make your own, the lead white doesn't contain zinc oxide pw4, which leads to delamination and cracking. (Check a paint's safety card to see if it is truly zinc free) All that being said a good lead oil ground on sized canvas glued to a stable rigid support is a very safe and archival approach. The lead forms metal soaps that pull all subsequent paint layers together to the ground, giving strong adhesion throughout the painting.
They are saying that alot of artists oil paintings are now cracking 20-30 years after painting using acrylic bases. Nothing wrong with something proven to last 100s of years. 🙃
You make me glad I started this. Thank you.
I love the last sentence so poetic and inspirational. Amazing video. Thank you
Nearly all the people commenting here dont know, or understand, artist materials. This is the most traditional preparation of linen painting canvas on all of RUclips. Before all the modern art supply companies & factories, this is exactly how it was done.
great video, but if you use a curved edge blade instead of the flat edge priming knife that you use, you don't get those annoying ridges between strokes that have to be sanded or smoothed out (I use a large curved edge cake spatula that looks like a double sized credit card with one edge curved out, bought from my local super market). I have also seen old pictures from painting manuscripts that show a large curved edge metal priming blade used i imagine for this reason.
you guys are just awesome
i could not find lead white in canada? any other product i can alternate? tks
Does a flake white replacement work alright? Lead white is unavailable in the market and online.
look up something called Whiting (chalk/calcium carbonate) mix that with rabbit skin glue instead with a little bit of titanium white
Where do you buy your linen?
Fantastic!!!
How come the same rule is not applied to making your own paint or using a limited palette to mix your colors, grinding paint....? just saying.
Azad Rasam Or making your own brushes. You make a good point, my friend. I do think that one benefit of at least priming your own canvas, is that you are in control of the sort of surface and texture you will be painting on, which can make all the difference for some painters.
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I really love your work and David A Leffel too but it seems to me that applying the glue size that way is not a good idea (as far as a
I know it should be applied thinly not hot but lukewarm for the canvases and may be applied hot on panels and boards. The books ( The artist’s handbook of materials and techniques by Ralph Mayer , Artist’s Manual by Collins and Mark David Gottsegen book “Revised and expanded- The painter’s handbook- will help.l watch on you tube that everybody is showing how they size and prime their painting supports ,mostly of them wrong so be careful guys learn just from reliable sources .
Using the flake white on a prepared canvas like that is just beyond me..why would you do that? I have been painting intensely for over 10 year and never did that..if you want a white surface just mix in white chalk in the glue when you're heating it up (also the glue application is bad,it should not be in gelatine form but liquid) and that gives you a white surface,if you want it more smoothed out you just sand it down and that's it.
stojanovich chalk in glue is called traditional gesso, this is brittle and cracks very quickly on canvas it is not suitable for application on flexible supports. It should only be used on a rigid support.
The safest option here, if someone insists on using RSG as a glue size, which has been shown to be one of the leading causes of cracking, due to it's hygroscopic nature and that of linen opposing expansion and contraction, instead of buffered ph neutral pva glue or gac 100 200, would be to glue the linen to a rigid support.
A lead oil ground is something completely different from just flake white thinned down with mineral spirits. It contains a certain percentage of chalk and bodied oils. Safest option here would be to buy commercial lead oil ground (rublev for example) making your own is possible, but without roller mills, your home mulled paint and grounds will always have much more oil in them than the artist's quality paints that you use on top of them, breaking the fat over lean rule. Also be mindful that if you do decide to make your own, the lead white doesn't contain zinc oxide pw4, which leads to delamination and cracking. (Check a paint's safety card to see if it is truly zinc free)
All that being said a good lead oil ground on sized canvas glued to a stable rigid support is a very safe and archival approach. The lead forms metal soaps that pull all subsequent paint layers together to the ground, giving strong adhesion throughout the painting.
3:45 with more modern sizes, why use rabbit skin glue? it's been proven to be inferior.
They are saying that alot of artists oil paintings are now cracking 20-30 years after painting using acrylic bases. Nothing wrong with something proven to last 100s of years. 🙃
@@ashb1187 Not to mention that acrylic bases have a 'plastic', rubbery quality that is very unpleasant to paint on.
Rabbit skin glue is NOT inferior to acrylic. Not a chance.