There is nothing like the feeling of making/harvesting your own power! Everyone needs something like this, even if it's only a 1200-2500 watt inverter, with 200 ah battery. The way things are getting, with storms and such, atleast it would keep the fridge going, and allow cooking with a microwave, and most importantly, keep you out the dark! Even if it's grid charged, being 12v LiFePo, you could charge it with a car, if you had to,,, but I'm off grid, with a 24v system, and a 12v system. I have 6, 120 ah batts, and a couple 250ah, and some Nissan leaf batteries, I modified to allow 7s connections. About 33kwh, and about 400ah 12v LiFePo bank, I'm going to get a smaller 12v inverter, that will run the fridge and microwave, about 2-2.5 kw or so, I'm using a DC to DC to keep charged, and use a balance charger , but I'm thinning I'll put 300-600 watta of pv, on the system, and keep the option of charging from the 24v bank, and vice versa, for emergencies, I have a DC generator in the works also, to charge the batteries directly, I just need a midnite classic controller, I'm using delco alternators, modified to allow charging of 12 and 24v batteries, with a 12hp engine, even with a large battery bank, charging at 96 amps it will not take that long, I could charge to about 75% without, if I only use a single 150 amp alternator, I do not want to damage the batteries! The controller us a must, maybe I will eventually get a few midnite classics, and can use for solar normally, and switch to the hydroelectric mode and use the DC generator, in a emergency, if the engine can handle it, I can do around 600amps at 28v, but will likely never do that, having no grid access, I need backups of backups, I also have a 2.5kw generator, and a 7 kw generator, but a generator running all day gets old fast! I also have a 1500 ups with 600 ah of lead acid! Back up power! Not counting all the USB power banks, the smallest is about 8ah, the largest is around 50! I'm rambling , sorry,, happy Thanksgiving,
As for the corrosion. Do not touch any metal(especially copper) that will conduct electricity with your bare hands. This is because of the accidity and sweat on your hands(even when they feel dry to you). It might look clean now but it will corrode. You might not notice this on tools or doorknobs but that is because there is no electricity flowing there. Now my experience comes from a couple of years I worked as a cable guy and for a HF coax cable those things are a lot more important(in fact the regulations for the company I worked for were so strict that when you had a random inspection and they noticed as much as a scratch on the core you would get a warning/get fired, touching the copper was another big nono and they would even measure the exposed shielding and core to the mm) but I have seen copper cable getting corroded in a year because the previous guy touched it or the customer thought it was a good idea to replace the wall socket themselves. It starts as simply dulling, then greyish but given the right conditions it will turn as green as my picture on the left. However correctly handled copper will stay nice and clean for years(as long as you do not put it in a damp basement. So do yourself a favor if you have to make a V4, wear gloves when touching any surface that has to conduct.
@@DMIINC2013 (Just watched the video) Ah yes I noticed you applied that, can't say anything about that as I never used it but I just wanted to let you know in case you were not aware of how touching copper conductors will speed up corrosion. (And perhaps others that face issues with corroding connectors or cables) That being said, I was not aware that you live in a place with a high hum lvl(This was only the first or second video of you I watched as I am researching for a EV sailboat conversion) so simply "not touching it" would probably not be enough. I would still wear simple latex gloves but to each their own and when it works it works ;)
@@DMIINC2013 1. please what is the nominal voltage of your battery bank 2. The power value 3. The continue charge current 4. The discharge current 5. The maximum System
For electrical insulation, I found cabnet liner at the dollar store, it's a opaque clear slightly rubbery plastic, it's about twice the thickness of heavy card stock, or construction paper, it cuts nice and is on a roll with a decent width and length, it has a slight texture on one side, and smooth on the other. I don't have it handy, but it is about 16-18" wide, and maybe 20' long, it's perfect for stuff like this, and it's only $5,/
Man that's a good idea I was thinking where I was going to put mine set up batteries I have Lifepo4 60 ah cell 300 off them and I did not have any idea where to store them and keep them safe for my kids that's a good idea
Love your videos and love your attention to detail, great work!! Question, is the space where your solar equipment is stay cool on hot days? Any noticeable temperature issues? Thanks
Excellent job but instead of the electrically insulating mats I will try spray on coating for the whole interior like the EPDM Flexseal or the product you put on electrical connections to insulate them
Very nice, I am planning/hoping to mirror your set up just a smaller scale. I have the fan, temp controller, shut off, monitor… Do you have a wiring diagram on the top of the power wall? Like the two small wires coming from the cut off, not sure about some it and just don’t want to miss something. Thanks!
Top bar only prevents movement in the pack. There is very little stress on any one component due to design. My charge and discharge per cell is way lower then 0.2C per cell.
The Link to the DC to DC converter doesn't work. What is it for. Shouldn't the batteries create the voltage you want? Or is it a voltage regulator? Can you post the brand/model so we can find it.
I saw that you had planned on using a transfer switch at the main panel to add a generator. Are you using a pure sign generator and could you elaborate on any plans? What model of generator and the plan to integrate would be interesting. Thank you for the videos !
My system will be so called selfish solar. So I will be using grid as my back up once everything is done. Transfer switch will be used only in case of total solar system failure as inverters can act as transfer switch in case batteries get low. So no generator use of any kind.
I have a quick question. with the LV5048 or LV6548 units, once your batteries are fully charged does the inverters have the capability to send excess solar power to the electric grid for a credit?
Is it really a good idea to have these cells on their side with all that weight on them? I've heard that prismatic cells must be used in standing position.
Thanks for the comment. I am coming on to 2 years for cells in the PowerWall 1 being on their side. No ill effect so far. Subsequently, I have made more videos in regards to their performance ruclips.net/video/zP2dx4mn1Rk/видео.html
Outstanding work. Looks like you saved yourself a boat load of cash. That being said, what in the world are you powering with that setup? A CIA server farm? 😁
Sorry, it's better to use the battery cells in upright position, standing on themselves with a bit of compression. This prevents squeezing of the cells by the weight of the other cells. By charging and discharging they will push something. Naturally they like to get bold and fatter. If all the weight of other cells in a stack, will give a force too (weight), this will be to much for the bottom ones. Therefor the bottom cell or cells will start leaking! So upright is the only correct position. You can't stack them. Only like books on shelves. I only used the cardboard very stiff corner pieces with came inside the box. on the four corners and some ducktape underpressure around the pack. In the cap between the duck- gorilla tape I put a piece of kartonbox. This way the cells are never in contact with the tape, but are compressed to each other by the ducktape. AFter taping on cardboard compressing the cells. I tiedend the screws of my busbars. I got a real stable battery-pack with no cost, some compression by ducktape on carton.
what length width and hieght are the cells you use in mm if possible the link doesn't go to a specific cell and there are many several may bot fit in the cabinet 4 widths across
What I have is this www.alibaba.com/product-detail/CATL-3-2v-Lifepo4-120ah-prismatic_62347534119.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.0.0.64f15e2f6AueUG and you can get brand new 150 AH which are same size and weight from here www.alibaba.com/product-detail/LiFePo4-3-2V-150Ah-Cell-Lithium_62449546236.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.0.0.778617ecYdgU3J Good luck with shipping anything from China at this point.
Quick question - one of the items in your parts list is a DC to DC converter. Can you explain what you use this for, and how it's connected? Also, the Amazon link is not working, so can you recommend an alternate? Thanks!
I use DC to DC converter for thermostatic fan control module. I also use it for 12 volt USB chargers. www.amazon.com/dp/B08LPVWX74/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_KPMASA0RYN70HHCFNE0C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@DMIINC2013 That's very helpful, and thanks for updating the link. What is your input power source for the DC to DC onverter? Is it powered by the batteries, or by one of the outputs on the LV5048?
Hi, I knew that lifepo4 cells must be placed vertically to function correctly, otherwise they can have malfunctions, decreased life cycles and even short circuits.
Over 2 years on the side and so far without issues. I have 144 cells like that. Out of curiosity how many cells you have and what is your experience so far? Thanks.
@@DMIINC2013 Hi, thanks for answering me. I have no direct experience yet. I am choosing the components for my first solar system and when I saw your video it seemed a great solution to me because I have very little space for batteries and other equipment in my house. But then I googled the "correct positioning of lifepo4 cells" and found that they can only be positioned vertically. I am designing a system with 32 280 ah 48v s / p cells and a 6kw / 12kw inverter.
@@DMIINC2013 I have heard the same thing as Roberto. From what I have read you might 'possibly' shorten the life/power efficacy of the LifePo4 over- time . The LifePo4 Electrolyte (Lithium Salt is the term I heard) might migrate away from some of the "jelly roll" pouches on the top and instead of getting 3000 discharges you get 2000 (IDK , just speculating) .
@@DMIINC2013 corrosion and high current is a serious problem.... At first is not worth of mention but with the time is getting worse and high current is exponentially make tings more worse... If I could sugest..... between cupper busbars and battery terminal put stainless steel washer... Great video's by the way.... 👍
Nice build. Im liking those cabinets for the battery storage!
Thanks!
Beautiful work very organized and detailed. Wishing you some solar happiness on the panels
Excellent videos. Very informative. Thank you for taking the time to make them and sharing.
There is nothing like the feeling of making/harvesting your own power! Everyone needs something like this, even if it's only a 1200-2500 watt inverter, with 200 ah battery. The way things are getting, with storms and such, atleast it would keep the fridge going, and allow cooking with a microwave, and most importantly, keep you out the dark! Even if it's grid charged, being 12v LiFePo, you could charge it with a car, if you had to,,, but I'm off grid, with a 24v system, and a 12v system. I have 6, 120 ah batts, and a couple 250ah, and some Nissan leaf batteries, I modified to allow 7s connections. About 33kwh, and about 400ah 12v LiFePo bank, I'm going to get a smaller 12v inverter, that will run the fridge and microwave, about 2-2.5 kw or so, I'm using a DC to DC to keep charged, and use a balance charger , but I'm thinning I'll put 300-600 watta of pv, on the system, and keep the option of charging from the 24v bank, and vice versa, for emergencies, I have a DC generator in the works also, to charge the batteries directly, I just need a midnite classic controller, I'm using delco alternators, modified to allow charging of 12 and 24v batteries, with a 12hp engine, even with a large battery bank, charging at 96 amps it will not take that long, I could charge to about 75% without, if I only use a single 150 amp alternator, I do not want to damage the batteries! The controller us a must, maybe I will eventually get a few midnite classics, and can use for solar normally, and switch to the hydroelectric mode and use the DC generator, in a emergency, if the engine can handle it, I can do around 600amps at 28v, but will likely never do that, having no grid access, I need backups of backups, I also have a 2.5kw generator, and a 7 kw generator, but a generator running all day gets old fast! I also have a 1500 ups with 600 ah of lead acid! Back up power! Not counting all the USB power banks, the smallest is about 8ah, the largest is around 50! I'm rambling , sorry,, happy Thanksgiving,
As for the corrosion.
Do not touch any metal(especially copper) that will conduct electricity with your bare hands.
This is because of the accidity and sweat on your hands(even when they feel dry to you). It might look clean now but it will corrode.
You might not notice this on tools or doorknobs but that is because there is no electricity flowing there.
Now my experience comes from a couple of years I worked as a cable guy and for a HF coax cable those things are a lot more important(in fact the regulations for the company I worked for were so strict that when you had a random inspection and they noticed as much as a scratch on the core you would get a warning/get fired, touching the copper was another big nono and they would even measure the exposed shielding and core to the mm) but I have seen copper cable getting corroded in a year because the previous guy touched it or the customer thought it was a good idea to replace the wall socket themselves.
It starts as simply dulling, then greyish but given the right conditions it will turn as green as my picture on the left. However correctly handled copper will stay nice and clean for years(as long as you do not put it in a damp basement.
So do yourself a favor if you have to make a V4, wear gloves when touching any surface that has to conduct.
Correct and this is what I have used to minimize problems with corrosion. ruclips.net/video/c2fM01O0vQQ/видео.html
@@DMIINC2013 (Just watched the video)
Ah yes I noticed you applied that, can't say anything about that as I never used it but I just wanted to let you know in case you were not aware of how touching copper conductors will speed up corrosion.
(And perhaps others that face issues with corroding connectors or cables)
That being said, I was not aware that you live in a place with a high hum lvl(This was only the first or second video of you I watched as I am researching for a EV sailboat conversion) so simply "not touching it" would probably not be enough.
I would still wear simple latex gloves but to each their own and when it works it works ;)
Congrats on finishing it! Looks like it took a long time. Update us in the future as to how your system is doing.
will do. It took 7 days to build. maybe 25-30 hours.
@@DMIINC2013
1. please what is the nominal voltage of your battery bank
2. The power value
3. The continue charge current
4. The discharge current
5. The maximum System
@@godfreyjohn-obaika8368 ruclips.net/video/lTPHlZ1pibU/видео.html
For electrical insulation, I found cabnet liner at the dollar store, it's a opaque clear slightly rubbery plastic, it's about twice the thickness of heavy card stock, or construction paper, it cuts nice and is on a roll with a decent width and length, it has a slight texture on one side, and smooth on the other. I don't have it handy, but it is about 16-18" wide, and maybe 20' long, it's perfect for stuff like this, and it's only $5,/
awesome build and item layout... love how it looks
Thanks a bunch!
Great content in your videos.. You are doing a really nice job putting all this together. Keep it up!
Thanks, will do!
Man that's a good idea I was thinking where I was going to put mine set up batteries I have Lifepo4 60 ah cell 300 off them and I did not have any idea where to store them and keep them safe for my kids that's a good idea
Cute! your daughtor? I have two daughtors, but now they grew up, so, young children's voice is very nostalgic.
Love your videos and love your attention to detail, great work!! Question, is the space where your solar equipment is stay cool on hot days? Any noticeable temperature issues? Thanks
Not at all. Temps stay around 30-35 deg C
Looks awesome nice and neat keep it up brother let us know how it's going
Excellent job but instead of the electrically insulating mats I will try spray on coating for the whole interior like the EPDM Flexseal or the product you put on electrical connections to insulate them
Make a video. I want to see that.
really neat setup.....
Thanks!
Oustanding work!!
Very good work!!!!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Very nice, I am planning/hoping to mirror your set up just a smaller scale. I have the fan, temp controller, shut off, monitor… Do you have a wiring diagram on the top of the power wall? Like the two small wires coming from the cut off, not sure about some it and just don’t want to miss something. Thanks!
What I did is in the video. Two wires from the cut off are for DC to DC converter and Volt meter. Thanks.
Love your setup man! does this top bar enough to compress/fix the batteries? and stop the stress on the copper busbars?
Top bar only prevents movement in the pack. There is very little stress on any one component due to design. My charge and discharge per cell is way lower then 0.2C per cell.
@@DMIINC2013 never tough of using mesh busbars?
@@TheMahdifarhat May I know why would you suggest mesh/flexible bus bars? Power Wall 1 is two years old with out any ill effects.
Well done, good job
Thank you,
The Link to the DC to DC converter doesn't work. What is it for. Shouldn't the batteries create the voltage you want? Or is it a voltage regulator? Can you post the brand/model so we can find it.
Powers fan, fan temp control and USB charging port.
www.amazon.com/Converter-DROK-Adjustable-Regulator-Transformer/dp/B08LPVWX74/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=YLIVX8IBPQST&keywords=dc+dc+converter&qid=1644185182&sprefix=dc+dc+%2Caps%2C145&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExNFpKMEo5QkVNMzRJJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDI3MDMxMkFUSDJHRTMyNktLQiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzczODIyQjFEOFNBSFlIMUJEJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
@@DMIINC2013 Okay, got it, it is not for the battery power. It is to power all the other supporting electronics and USB ports. thanks
Which bms did you use for this project? The link for Alibaba is nolonger available
It appear so!!!! However this video talks more about it, ruclips.net/video/EZfhcsIeuW4/видео.html
Where do ppl find such long balance lead wires my wires are very short
the BMS link in the description has gone stale and produces a 404 not found error. What model/manufacturer was it?
It is voltcell 120 amp model.
Im in nw NC,in the foothills it doesn't snow that much here either!
Excellent job.... 👍😎🖖
I saw that you had planned on using a transfer switch at the main panel to add a generator. Are you using a pure sign generator and could you elaborate on any plans? What model of generator and the plan to integrate would be interesting. Thank you for the videos !
My system will be so called selfish solar. So I will be using grid as my back up once everything is done. Transfer switch will be used only in case of total solar system failure as inverters can act as transfer switch in case batteries get low. So no generator use of any kind.
I have a quick question. with the LV5048 or LV6548 units, once your batteries are fully charged does the inverters have the capability to send excess solar power to the electric grid for a credit?
No.
Excellent job! This is the template for all us Lifepo4 lovers. Do you have a component list, with url, you could share?
It is in this video. ruclips.net/video/sZnntvsFwes/видео.html But I will copy and paste that info here too.
Is it really a good idea to have these cells on their side with all that weight on them? I've heard that prismatic cells must be used in standing position.
Thanks for the comment. I am coming on to 2 years for cells in the PowerWall 1 being on their side. No ill effect so far. Subsequently, I have made more videos in regards to their performance ruclips.net/video/zP2dx4mn1Rk/видео.html
@@DMIINC2013 Fair enough! What works in practice is what counts. I actually really like your setup! Thanks for the videos!
@@mcg6762 thank you.
Outstanding work. Looks like you saved yourself a boat load of cash. That being said, what in the world are you powering with that setup? A CIA server farm? 😁
Sorry, it's better to use the battery cells in upright position, standing on themselves with a bit of compression. This prevents squeezing of the cells by the weight of the other cells. By charging and discharging they will push something. Naturally they like to get bold and fatter. If all the weight of other cells in a stack, will give a force too (weight), this will be to much for the bottom ones. Therefor the bottom cell or cells will start leaking! So upright is the only correct position. You can't stack them. Only like books on shelves.
I only used the cardboard very stiff corner pieces with came inside the box. on the four corners and some ducktape underpressure around the pack. In the cap between the duck- gorilla tape I put a piece of kartonbox. This way the cells are never in contact with the tape, but are compressed to each other by the ducktape. AFter taping on cardboard compressing the cells. I tiedend the screws of my busbars. I got a real stable battery-pack with no cost, some compression by ducktape on carton.
Agreed
Next time just build it out and spray it all with flex seal rubber spray!
Hello, can you tell me what difference does a 16s 3p of 100ah have, with a 16s 1p of 300ah? Thank you so much
My setup was most economical solution at that time for me. If I had chance I would have went with 300aH cells.
what length width and hieght are the cells you use in mm if possible the link doesn't go to a specific cell and there are many several may bot fit in the cabinet 4 widths across
What I have is this www.alibaba.com/product-detail/CATL-3-2v-Lifepo4-120ah-prismatic_62347534119.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.0.0.64f15e2f6AueUG and you can get brand new 150 AH which are same size and weight from here www.alibaba.com/product-detail/LiFePo4-3-2V-150Ah-Cell-Lithium_62449546236.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.0.0.778617ecYdgU3J Good luck with shipping anything from China at this point.
Quick question - one of the items in your parts list is a DC to DC converter. Can you explain what you use this for, and how it's connected? Also, the Amazon link is not working, so can you recommend an alternate? Thanks!
I use DC to DC converter for thermostatic fan control module. I also use it for 12 volt USB chargers. www.amazon.com/dp/B08LPVWX74/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_KPMASA0RYN70HHCFNE0C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@DMIINC2013 That's very helpful, and thanks for updating the link. What is your input power source for the DC to DC onverter? Is it powered by the batteries, or by one of the outputs on the LV5048?
Batteries.
Why don’t you use copper bus bars also horizontally and you use copper wire ?
So modules can move.
Very well done but put on work shoes next time!
Nice work man! How much KW per box?
Thank you, 18.4KWh per wall.
Hi, I knew that lifepo4 cells must be placed vertically to function correctly, otherwise they can have malfunctions, decreased life cycles and even short circuits.
Over 2 years on the side and so far without issues. I have 144 cells like that. Out of curiosity how many cells you have and what is your experience so far? Thanks.
@@DMIINC2013 Hi, thanks for answering me. I have no direct experience yet. I am choosing the components for my first solar system and when I saw your video it seemed a great solution to me because I have very little space for batteries and other equipment in my house. But then I googled the "correct positioning of lifepo4 cells" and found that they can only be positioned vertically. I am designing a system with 32 280 ah 48v s / p cells and a 6kw / 12kw inverter.
Great.
@@DMIINC2013 I have heard the same thing as Roberto. From what I have read you might 'possibly' shorten the life/power efficacy of the LifePo4 over- time . The LifePo4 Electrolyte (Lithium Salt is the term I heard) might migrate away from some of the "jelly roll" pouches on the top and instead of getting 3000 discharges you get 2000 (IDK , just speculating) .
It might matter what Brand Lifepo4 Cells you have . Do you know ?
where is the insulation for the cabinet front portion ?
You can see it in other videos!!!!!
@@DMIINC2013 great work it actually needs a great amount of planing to execute
Hi why you uesd balance and bms ? You used 2 of them ?? Thanks bro
Best solution for me.
What's the price of the cabnets?
Phease can I have link to buy Bms please
There are links in the description. Click on them.
Do you have a diagram of the battery array and busbars
ruclips.net/video/lTPHlZ1pibU/видео.html
20:24 LOL your baby stole your styrofoam
I see you line in alibaba $5 for each ?
Nolax would be better.....prevent galvanic corrosion between aluminum contact on the cells and copper busbars....or make aluminum busbars....
Trying a proven solution first. For power wall 2.0 I will use, if ox-gard works as I think it will, some of MG Chemical silver conductive grease.
@@DMIINC2013 corrosion and high current is a serious problem.... At first is not worth of mention but with the time is getting worse and high current is exponentially make tings more worse...
If I could sugest..... between cupper busbars and battery terminal put stainless steel washer...
Great video's by the way.... 👍
Hi.
Can you please direct me to the fans you are using
It's in the video description.
@@DMIINC2013
Hi ok thanks, I found it on Amazon.
That's an awesome system that you have created
@@edwardshomestead9074 Thank you.
Please get a dedicated mic
I will. All of the filming was done via cell phone.
15:22 you are wrong! gloves make it more dangerous! Never ever wear gloves on a Mill, Drill or Lathe.... NEVER!
This is so ridiculous all this work just to make a simple battery bank That’s so lame.