I replaced two of these (torque mount and drivers side) and this video was invaluable - thanks! The driver's side mount in particular was a real hassle with getting the intake and air box out of there!
@@ToyotaGR86Performance one question for you: I changed the mounts due to an engine rumble, which still is not fixed 100%. The torque mount was 100% broken and the drivers mount looked okay. What are the chances the passenger mount is the cause of the vibration? The car rumbles even when idle but it's most noticeable in gears 2 and 3. I think I'm going to follow your guide to complete the last engine mount anyway just wanted to hear if you had an opinion! Thanks again, amazing resource you have created for smart car owners.
Engine vibration would be apparent in all gears at all speeds if the mounts have gone bad. If your engine is shaking at specific speeds/loads, you may have other underlying issues.
High rpm meaning the engine is under high load? Yes, that’s what I was referring to when I said “specific speeds/loads”. I can’t really diagnose it through the Internet, but if it’s shaking violently at higher RPM personally I would not take the engine to that point until I get it diagnosed and fixed.
Very informative video. It helped me a lot to try to change mine, but I found a bigger problem, my original bolts M10x1.5, are very loose, the thread would not hold them even after using a thread chaser. Would the solution be rethread the block for wider bolts? I am afraid to do something wrong and damage the block and will greatly appreciate any advice.
Be very careful with anything that you choose to do. You could use something to re-thread the larger bolt size, or you could use something to fix the current threads. Whatever you choose, if you are not 100% certain on how to do it, I recommend taking this to a shop to have it professionally done. If you destroy the threads in the block permanently beyond repair, you will be forced to pay a lot more for repairs at that point.
YES MY VIDEO aside from the scary clutch or transmission noises mine makes, the lower motor mount is completely torn. In fact with the way I drive it maybe I’ll just take the old torn lower “torque” mount and either weld it or rebuild it with custom polyurethane or something.
You’re very welcome. I just want to help people. I have a ton of maintenance videos on my channel, and when my car needs more different type of maintenance, I will be posting all the videos here.
@@ToyotaGR86Performance i need your help I have some problem when car become warm transmission make hit r and d same (( problem in transmission or what ?
@@Knowhowca if it’s doing that when hot, it’s a possibility the fluid has lost some of its friction characteristics due to age. A simple drain and full of the transmission fluid in conjunction with re-greasing the actuator should completely fix your issue.
Hey since you’re like an expert at finding all the service information and making these smart 451 wrenching videos my request would be flushing/replacing the coolant because mine isn’t green or anything, still the blue stuff, but it looks like shit because it’s probably the original from ‘09. All dark and stuff. There’s a couple videos out there but it’s like this whole damn confusing bleeding procedure if you don’t use an air lift coolant tool.
So, you went from the bolts on the front mount being tightened to them magically being loosened - how did you go about doing that part? Breaker bar? Heat? Hammer Wrench? Because those two are beyond stuck on my poor little smartie...
Every bolt can be stuck in a different way. Usually a good bet when dealing with a stuck bolt is spray some penetrating oil on it and let it sit for 5 minutes then work the bolt back and forth to loosen it up.
Recent subscriber as I bought a 2009 Brabus. The issue is the drivers door won't lock. No clicky sound like the passenger door which locks as does the rear glass tail gate. , so I'm thinking the cable is fine but the actuator is bad or maybe a bad/broken electrical connection, I'm guessing I'll need to remove the outer drivers door panel to replace. Any videos on that?
@@subiesojourner777 outer skin always comes off first. You can get the actuator off with a bit of wiggling. No need to take the interior panel off at all.
@@ToyotaGR86Performance MB? In the video at 38 seconds in you show they had the smart logo filed off and mentioned they were a fifth of the cost of what MB had?
@@booboo6033 that is the difference between OE and OEM. OE would be Mercedes-Benz with their logo on there. Or it would have a smart logo on there. OEM means original equipment manufacturer. Mercedes does not make these parts, they have other companies make it for them, and those companies stamped the Mercedes logo on it from the factory. when those companies want to sell them as aftermarket parts, by law, they have to grind off the Mercedes and or smart logo off the parts so they can sell it as their own. That is an OEM part. It is literally the same thing from the dealer, but it is missing the primary auto manufacturers logo.
This might sound really dumb, but walk away from your car and take a coffee break. A lot of the time you can’t get something back in because you keep trying it the same way over and over and it doesn’t work. Take a coffee break and come out later, I’m sure it’ll pop right back in within one to two minutes. There is no secret, it’s just wiggling it into place.
I had to re-upload this video due to an error in the video. Sorry about that.
Wonderful video. You are the only one to post the torque specs.
I replaced two of these (torque mount and drivers side) and this video was invaluable - thanks! The driver's side mount in particular was a real hassle with getting the intake and air box out of there!
I’m glad I could help. ^_^
@@ToyotaGR86Performance one question for you: I changed the mounts due to an engine rumble, which still is not fixed 100%. The torque mount was 100% broken and the drivers mount looked okay. What are the chances the passenger mount is the cause of the vibration? The car rumbles even when idle but it's most noticeable in gears 2 and 3. I think I'm going to follow your guide to complete the last engine mount anyway just wanted to hear if you had an opinion! Thanks again, amazing resource you have created for smart car owners.
Engine vibration would be apparent in all gears at all speeds if the mounts have gone bad.
If your engine is shaking at specific speeds/loads, you may have other underlying issues.
@@ToyotaGR86Performance really? It seems to be a high rpm thing.
High rpm meaning the engine is under high load? Yes, that’s what I was referring to when I said “specific speeds/loads”.
I can’t really diagnose it through the Internet, but if it’s shaking violently at higher RPM personally I would not take the engine to that point until I get it diagnosed and fixed.
Very informative video. It helped me a lot to try to change mine, but I found a bigger problem, my original bolts M10x1.5, are very loose, the thread would not hold them even after using a thread chaser. Would the solution be rethread the block for wider bolts? I am afraid to do something wrong and damage the block and will greatly appreciate any advice.
Be very careful with anything that you choose to do. You could use something to re-thread the larger bolt size, or you could use something to fix the current threads. Whatever you choose, if you are not 100% certain on how to do it, I recommend taking this to a shop to have it professionally done. If you destroy the threads in the block permanently beyond repair, you will be forced to pay a lot more for repairs at that point.
YES MY VIDEO aside from the scary clutch or transmission noises mine makes, the lower motor mount is completely torn. In fact with the way I drive it maybe I’ll just take the old torn lower “torque” mount and either weld it or rebuild it with custom polyurethane or something.
Lower torque mounts are like $30 on eBay.
Great video, keep it up !
Thanks, will do!
Great! Thanks a lot :)
Would you share a comment on how you solved the bolt thread issue? These aluminum blocks are delicate.
Use a pick to clean out as much debris as you can then use a thread chaser to clean it up the rest of the way.
You used the same bolts then. There was no need to re-thread the bolt hole. Thank you very much for your prompt response.
What is the correct size of the thread chaser? I will have to some threads in my car and maybe do a larger one that may not be able to save.
@@andrescoll2203 I don’t recall the size. Just bring a single bolt with you to an hardware store and get it sized. Then buy the correct chaser.
That's what I will do, thank you very much for your help.
1000 time thank you 🙏
You’re very welcome. I just want to help people.
I have a ton of maintenance videos on my channel, and when my car needs more different type of maintenance, I will be posting all the videos here.
@@ToyotaGR86Performance i need your help I have some problem when car become warm transmission make hit r and d same (( problem in transmission or what ?
@@Knowhowca if it’s doing that when hot, it’s a possibility the fluid has lost some of its friction characteristics due to age.
A simple drain and full of the transmission fluid in conjunction with re-greasing the actuator should completely fix your issue.
Ciao, complimenti per i video sempre belli da vedere ti chiedevo quando fai un video per la pulizia del corpo farfallato. grazie
Hey since you’re like an expert at finding all the service information and making these smart 451 wrenching videos my request would be flushing/replacing the coolant because mine isn’t green or anything, still the blue stuff, but it looks like shit because it’s probably the original from ‘09. All dark and stuff. There’s a couple videos out there but it’s like this whole damn confusing bleeding procedure if you don’t use an air lift coolant tool.
Good news, I already have a coolant flush video! ^_^
@@ToyotaGR86Performance oh I stupid
So, you went from the bolts on the front mount being tightened to them magically being loosened - how did you go about doing that part? Breaker bar? Heat? Hammer Wrench? Because those two are beyond stuck on my poor little smartie...
Every bolt can be stuck in a different way. Usually a good bet when dealing with a stuck bolt is spray some penetrating oil on it and let it sit for 5 minutes then work the bolt back and forth to loosen it up.
Recent subscriber as I bought a 2009 Brabus. The issue is the drivers door won't lock. No clicky sound like the passenger door which locks as does the rear glass tail gate. , so I'm thinking the cable is fine but the actuator is bad or maybe a bad/broken electrical connection, I'm guessing I'll need to remove the outer drivers door panel to replace. Any videos on that?
Yes. Just go through my video library and you’ll see exterior door skin removal or something along those lines. ^_^
@@ToyotaGR86Performance To get to the actuator, do I remove the outer skin or interior door panel?
@@subiesojourner777 outer skin always comes off first. You can get the actuator off with a bit of wiggling. No need to take the interior panel off at all.
How many miles does your car have?
~45,000
Where did you get the motor mounts 🤔
Mercedes Benz.
@@ToyotaGR86Performance MB? In the video at 38 seconds in you show they had the smart logo filed off and mentioned they were a fifth of the cost of what MB had?
@@booboo6033 that is the difference between OE and OEM. OE would be Mercedes-Benz with their logo on there. Or it would have a smart logo on there. OEM means original equipment manufacturer. Mercedes does not make these parts, they have other companies make it for them, and those companies stamped the Mercedes logo on it from the factory. when those companies want to sell them as aftermarket parts, by law, they have to grind off the Mercedes and or smart logo off the parts so they can sell it as their own. That is an OEM part. It is literally the same thing from the dealer, but it is missing the primary auto manufacturers logo.
How on earth did you get that air box back in there. I've been at mine for an hour and I could not get it to fit back in there I've tried everything
This might sound really dumb, but walk away from your car and take a coffee break. A lot of the time you can’t get something back in because you keep trying it the same way over and over and it doesn’t work. Take a coffee break and come out later, I’m sure it’ll pop right back in within one to two minutes.
There is no secret, it’s just wiggling it into place.
That's not cross threading. It's gauling of threads because the engine block is aluminum and the bolt is steel.
How do you deal with that? 🤔
Noalox paste🤔
Thread chasers, new bolts, whatever works and can still torque to spec.