Freelander 2 Starting problems
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- Uploading this video as an avid fan of the Freelander 2 vehicle. It has its flaws but I get home everytime. This video is because of the most recent issues which has me stumped. The vehicle has starting issues as of recently and I am trying to solve it so others out there can learn. Alternatively if you already know what the problem is let me know.
The battery is new and the vehicle gets serviced on time and in full. Because of the harsh conditions we tend to change oil every 10000km with fully synthetic.
So far I have checked the alternator voltage and found it to put out 13.4v. So I suspected the alternator first. However there was a drain on the battery so I charged the battery and refitted it an now I have a healthy 14.8v & the starting issue has gone away. I will run it now for a couple of weeks and check everything again.
Good day all,
I'd like to first thank you for all the consistent care and useful advices. I bought a SE TD4 from a friend which was experiencing the very same problem. After it completely gave up, I looked for solution and ended up here. The problem with mine was SOLENOID KIT and PLUNGER. It was easy to diagnose after I told the auto electrician and they fixed it in the matter of hours. It didn't cost so much and the car is perfectly fine. Cheers!
I’m glad the video can help.. there is another issue that tends to come up on the Freelander 2 cars as I experienced on a newer SD4... get a checkup done on the exhaust manifold gasket and bolt torque. These tend to work loose and can burn through wiring causing the car to die. If the turbo sound like it is blowing under load probably the gasket is on its way out. Again, simple fix on a great car..
@@seanfenwick Thank you for the great advice!
I had the same issues & four garages couldn’t find the fault. Took it to main dealership. They found wiring fault , damaged wire that goes down under subframe to starting motor / damaged. After repair all good.
I had this on my Freelander 2. It was intermittent, but always started eventually, did loads of research, RUclips, blogs etc etc. Ended up taking it in - new starter motor solved it….
Hello Sean,
It is always better to fully charge the new battery before fitting it on the car.
The reason for the lower alternator voltage was that the battery was probably discharged, so the voltage would increase after some charging time. The alternator has to source not only the battery charge, but also car's electric at same time.
It is normal to have current drain from the battery after you turn off the car for at least 45 minutes until all modules go to sleep.
Sometimes a relay does not disarm causing current drain for a longer period, in this case you can try to disconnect the battery for some time, resetting it, if it is not defective.
TDV8 Fixes we got to the bottom of this and it was a sticky starter motor. So we gave it and overhaul at a lot less than new but working perfectly now.
Sean Fenwick : Well done!
I see you have also a Diesel, so I hope my videos could be maybe helpful for you.
I was having same problem. AA guy came and tested the battery (which i had just bought new days earlier to solve this problem), then tapped the starter motor gently while i tried to start the engine again and it started. I think he said the starter motor was at fault as old one probably stuck in a position between brushes/coils, and it would explain why my problem was intermittent starting/not starting which originally led me to try a new battery
Have the same problem. Replaced starter and it went away for a couple of months then came back. So then replaced battery, same again, went away for a couple of months then returned. Then installed 2nd earth from battery direct to starter. Problem went away for about a week then re appeared?? Now wondering wether to install new starter solenoid as Im running out of things to replace!!
Hi, probably not of any help to you now, but maybe someone else having same problem, I had exact same issue with my Freelander2 and it was the starter that was warn, bought a service kit for the starter, was pretty cheap, replaced the "brushes" and "piston/plunger" and problem fixed, started every time since then.
Basically old parts was warn and didn't make proper contact, with every tick you hear when trying to start, the piston plunges and moves/turns a bit until it eventually reaches a point where there is enough contact area to power the starter.
Hope this helps someone.
Having the same problems with my 2008 Freelander 3.2 petrol with the Volvo motor. This vehicle has only 19000kms on it. Have replaced the battery but to no avail goes good for couple weeks then starting troubles again. Seems to be a problem with these Freelanders.
I have the same problem now when I've seen very positive comments about what I've been assuming it is. but I am 100% sure that I need to replace the wiring that goes from the battery to the starter motor.
I have this problem and heard loads of clicks eventually but the vehicle starts perfectly when jump started with leads, so it cannot be the foot brake switch. Once I had the vehicle running (the battery was in a low sate of charge anyway before hand) I popped up to a fuel station out of town to give it a run. Vehicle reached operating temperature way before I reached the garage just driving it normally with no harsh acceleration. Garage was between 20 - 30 minutes drive away and all A road so 30.40.50 & 60 mph limits.. When I got to the garage to fuel up I believed it was safe enough to turn engine off. (I may of been able to leave engine running to fuel up as it is diesel but I didn't risk it). I finished fuelling and after paying vehicle failed to start again. This is when I hear most of the clicks and saw dashboard lights going mental flashing all over and then nothing . I thought maybe starter motor is failing but eventually I got another jump start and vehicle started first go easy as pie. I got back home and parked up. Turned engine off and tried starting it again and it fired up fine first time again.. I then left the vehicle for just one or two days and tried it again and nothing doing dead as a Dodo. It looks like an old battery so could be at end of life? Alternator is fine when engine running and lights do not dip when revving engine. Battery could be on it's last legs and not using vehicle much finished it off. Next step is remove battery and see if it will charge and hope by then somewhere is open that can sell or deliver one. Batteries do just come to the end of their charging lives. I have had this with other vehicles and when replacement battery fitted no more problems but it is best to know for sure before spending out. If original battery removed and fails to charge or takes days or shows as poor on a voltmeter even then chances are it is time to retire it. Batteries on modern vehicles have so much more to do it is no wonder they become unusable quicker.
Paw Paw mine was definitely the starter motor because I had it rebuilt 2 years ago and haven’t had a problem since. When I buy a car(I have never bought a new car) I always change the battery to a higher AH unit. The other reason I was sure is that even with a new battery I still needed more power to get the starter to spin up and engage the motor. So if it struggles to start I always start at the battery and then follow the power chain to the next item...
@@seanfenwick I got a completely new stater motor for one of my vehicles a couple of years ago (A Transit van). If the garage keeps the old motor and sends it back or rebuilds it they give a good discount on the work. I got a brand new motor fitted all in with part, labour and VAT for £64.00 which I thought was pretty good and just an hours work. Removing the battery from my Freelander 2 recently I noticed a wire had come loose maybe because jump leads were used but the connection was a solid one that requires a plastic tab to be pushed in to release the two pronged small connection so I don't know if the wire should be connected or not. The wire runs from a small black electrical connection box about the size of a thumb (from knuckle to nail) near the positive terminal to a bullet type connection right next to the negative terminal. I will need to see a wiring diagram to find out what this wire is and what it does but also should it be connected. In the meantime I am charging the battery to see if it holds it's charge. Pain in the ass once the battery is removed the vehicle cannot be locked. Luckily the boot stays lock.
I had this issue right out the blue. Had my freelander 2 since February this year, 3 weeks ago leaving work. Lights up as normal and clicked but not even a kick. As you say jump start went fine, and it ran for a week after without issue before i changed battery(original was 13yrs old as got all paperwork but no batteries bought for it since it was made)
This morning it's done this again but exactly like video, it eventually kicked in. Mines is a manual and I'm sure mine doesn't have that lead you say that was lose on yours
@@calumaitchison Ah are you saying you still had problems starting vehicle even after new battery fitted? I found out the wire should be connected and I also found out my old battery may have been the original from 2011. 13 years use out of a battery is unheard of, what make was that do you know? My old battery refused to charge after three days and I discovered a hairline crack in the bottom of it. Only because I looked down and my t shirt was suddenly full of holes and it was a new ish t shirt Grrr.. :0) New battery fitted and all is well except the new battery is slightly shorter than the old one and the retaining bolt and clamp now fail to hold it in place so I am using a wooden wedge to keep it from moving. Damn annoying. Great cars to drive though compared to my old series 1 05 TD4 manual.. Whoops I appear to have a rather growing collection of automobiles.. I didn't buy a manual yet for the wiring diagram but will do soon. Good luck with your S2..
@@Keepingitrespectfulmostly. believe it or not. Mine started perfect up until 4 weeks ago when it first done it. And as i suspected battery was the issue as i am short journeys early morning with lights on mainly, it took me the week to find one that i would pay the money for but it started perfect everyday until i changed battery 2 weeks ago. And this is first time since changing that it happened. I just spammed my start button until it stsrted as could hear starter trying to go and it did kick over a couple times before it properly started.
I seen a video of the battery clamp and apparently you can split the bottom bracket off and there should be a 2nd threaded hole that would make the original clamp hold a shorter battery without need for the block of wood.
My original battery is a 80Ah, 700amp EXIDE with the land rover label still on it....only reason i believe its the original is the fact i have all service documents and there is no receipt for new battery.
Have read up on it and and i thinknits the starter contacts on the bottom of the starter motor corroding or disintegrating. A lot of replies to the thread said that fixed the issue.
I think mine is just really starting to become a problem and will need to have a look myself or get garage to fix it for me. It wont be land rover mechanics as i would have liked just for price reasons.....rip off here in UK
The screen disappears temporarily to allow the current to go to the starter motor. Hundreds of amps are consumed by the starter motor
Hi 100% starter motor I had same problem there is a small wire that breaks i fitted new starter and its all good again we hit the top of starter for few months
Guarantee it's the starter solenoid contacts
Repair kit available on eBay for £15 and took me an hour to remove and starter and fit the parts.very easy job to do yourself however getting at the top starr bolt can be fiddley. Garages will fit a new starter at a small fortune so give it a go. My car hasn't miss d a beat in the 5 m I nths since doing it.
Stu I also rebuilt my entire starter for about £75 and refitted it now 24months ago.. no problem since
Sean Fenwick hey Sean. I only realised after how old your post was lol. Glad your motor is still going strong 👍 apologies for the late response.
Kindly send link to ebay pls and how to fix it.Im having the same problem.Many thanks
Hi Sean- I have the same problem ...the mechanics say it a starter so tomorrow we will change and see how much it cost.
So how much was it?
So how much was it? And did it fix the problem
I have the same problem, same car. Sounds like the starter motor needs replacing or a kit...
Hi Gavin, it was the starter motor. Just a recondition was needed and now has another 120000km on and a few years problem hasn’t come back.
Did you ever get to the bottom of this problem? I've had a similar issue recently and replaced the battery but am still occasionally getting the problem. I'm not convinced the new battery I bought is good and will check this but was interested to hear how you had got on with finding the fault.
Stuart Brabbs I did indeed....and it was actually and easy fix. The starter motor needed an overhaul. Took my local Landy guy a couple of hours and I have a 12 month warranty. Hasn’t missed a beat since. The overhaul was about R2800 instead of a new unit at R8000
Thanks for letting me know. I've ordered a starter solenoid repair kit for £16 which is peanuts so hopefully it will solve the problem. Elsewhere, I've seen others with this problem but no solutions. Some scary stories of LR charging over £1000 to sort this and the bills mounting. None of the forums seemed to have any clear answers so I'm pleased I found your post.
Stuart Brabbs a few more months on and still working perfectly. So the starter motor overhaul did the trick.
Hi Sean, could you please share the contact details of your local Landy guy, hoping he is around Gauteng. I will need to take my Freelander to him, lately it has become very stubborn when it comes to starting.
Hlanai Chipwanya hi, certainly, you can try two places. I have used both and I more happy with the first which is Land Rover mega Centre, kempton park 0119795095 and 4wheel traction 0169313156. Hope you come right.
Could also be a faulty switch on the Foot brake
Pearce Carl could be. But in my case it was the starter motor which needed a refurbishment. Been 2+ years and perfect now..
I have the same car and I’m having this issue as I’m typing this but this happened to me before and is happening to this day but my battery died and I got A new one and out a new one in it and I had to have a diagnostic reader hook up to the car and I had to reprogram the car to the battery but once it gets reprogrammed it will start up and work fine even if the battery dies your can’t jumó it or anything I was told only way to get it started is getting a diagnostic tester and reprogram the car to thre battery the cars these days are confusing
Hi , my Freelander 2 has had a lot of problems , mine seems to have started with the key fob, it was stuck in and I had to pull it out with pliers. Having no dash lights ,no central locking it wouldn't turn over. I did read on line to reset the ECU try this, it doesn't cure my key fob problem but it did start my car. Disconnect the negative leave off for for a hour then touch the negative to the positive this drains any power left in the ECU reconnect negative and hopefully like mine it should be OK. I have mine in ,having new key dicking unit fitted now.
I have one that would not start after the alternator went bad. Turns out all i had to do was clear the codes. Cranked right away.
How did you clear them, which cords
I have a problem with my freelander 2 2007 model
1.Hdc fault system unavailable
2.it doest start
3.it has letter E where it shows selected gears
4.it always says the key is in the ignition even when the key is in my pocket
Starter motor connections external or internal. Mine was changed before I bought it at about 5 years old
My dad have a starting problem in his freelander of 2007 2.2diesel. The mechanic could not solve it, but it shows a code P0603 (KAM) keep-alive-memory module. Please can someone tell me, where to refer, is anything to check, a fuse or something that is relatet to this module?? The engine crank but dont start. And lately engine took some longer time while cranking
Hi, my 04, freelancer is constantly stalling, it I undo drain plug behind back wheel I can hear air coming out, I let Deisel drip out couple of minutes and it will drive about 2 miles and cut out , I have to drain again, any ideas please?
Tony Martin hi, I don’t have a F1 LR, but if any vehicle keeps cutting out I would first check that fuel is in constant delivery to the engine. There could be an airlock so bleed the fuel system from tank to injectors. Second if that’s all good make sure you don’t have any cracked lines leaking air into the system. So there should be no air getting into the system at all.. after all that the next item is the fuel pump to ensure it’s delivering the right fuel pressure. You can short out the fuel pump and pump the whole system with 12v power.. it all that is in check then the injectors would be due a change or decent clean.. that should be all the parts in the fuel system..
Hello from Canada, I'm facing a similar issue and have tried to troubleshoot it the way you gave just to get it started. But nothing happened, I've noticed that the check engine light and the battery light comes on and does not go away. Mind you I've not done the overhaul yet. It requires a service and will be taking it to the shop next week. Any idea how to get it started? Any help would be much appreciated!!
Mehdi Poptani at the end of the day you have to redo the starter motor..
I have an 08 FL 2 which cut out while driving. Tried to start the engine again, it turns but isn't starting. Showing battery and engine light and has a Low engine performance and HDC error message. A month ago I went to start the car and it gave the low engine performance message but I got it jump started and had no trouble until now. This time I've tried jump starting but no luck. I've read it could be due to low voltage of the battery (not starting) and could also be the reason the engine cut out (caused undue labour on the alternator and engine). Has anyone had a similar issue and think it could be the battery? Or maybe a faulty sensor or what? Unfortunately we are in lockdown and struggling to find a mechanic who's open! Hope its just a old faulty battery (6 years since it was replaced).
Richard Duffy hi Richard, logic would suggest to replace the battery first and see if that sorts it. Since modern cars are very fussy with electronics I would start there and also check if you have all your earths secure. If you are in JHB get hold of Jaco at Land Rover Mega Centre.
Starting motor
I have one and my starting motor did that
@richard it was the crankshaft sensor
@@richardduffy9110 yes i had the same with my 07 FL2,would crank over in the drive and maybe 4th attempt would start ,let me drive out onto the road and get 200yds from home and then die,again after several tries it would start,had code read and it showed up crank shaft sensor,replaced it (5min job) and been fine now for 18months.
Had a smiler problem crank shaft sensor my guys out a replacement one in but had same problem after 2 weeks then changed to a more expensive one no issues at all since great motor
I love the motor and even the SD4 is potent. I use my landy for towing and heavier work than most and mine now has 290k km on it with no major issues really. Did you know that the 2.2 came from a Peugeot/Citroen van and not the Ford everyone thinks? It's the same PSA diesel you find in the Boxer and relay commercial vans. another top tip is that many parts from the Volvo bin fit the FL2 like engine mounts and suspension strut mounts etc.
Sean Fenwick Iv started to use the bottles called forte trust me Diesel treatment as well as turbo on a full fill tank my LR like a new motor cleanse all your engine vains in turbo £35 for 2 bottles best money Iv ever spent put ya foot down now black smoke just clear !!!! A must to try 👍👍👍👍
I have this problem now! I’ve replaced the starter motor and it’s happened twice since? The last time it got recovered to the garage it then started there every time and they could not fault it (No faults on diagnostics) and has then ran perfectly for a few weeks, now it’s gone and won’t start again! Could anyone maybe help me out please? I’m meant to drive to Spain in it in a few weeks and I need this sorting asap! Could this still be the solenoid? Or would this not be replaced with the new starter motor? Thanks for any advice!!
Hi Charlie, process of elimination.. 1. Check battery for sufficient cranking power and amps, 2. Check all cable connections and earthing straps, a bad earth will give trouble. And I do mean disconnect and clean all the connections. 3. Make sure your starter motor bendix is kicking in. Sometime they need to be lubed up a bit. Weak current means it won’t kick in or even over.
Hi,just got fixed my LR today,the problem was the fuse from the plus leads on battery,the leeds connect the starter motor
motor glow hieter is your problem.Posible DPF not cleaned
I had this problem. No dash lights and not starting just a clicking noise from passenger footwell. Battery at 12.4v. Disconnected both battery cables and zip tied them together for 15min and connected jumpleads to my Disco. Reconnected and it started 1st try. Hope this helps someone
Hi sir I have samiler problem with my 2007 freelander 2 is start and stop. And I thought it was a battery but I bought new one still it has no power!?
Hi Thabo, where are you based? It is likely that it is the starter motor. So any decent recon centre should be able to get it right for relatively little money. But if you’re in South Africa let me know. I’m glad to try help. WhatsApp 27833061874
@@seanfenwick yes I am in South Africa in mpumalanga currently stay in witbank
That click is the starter motor
audionut yup that’s right, mine was that as well, quick and easy fix
sean fenwick did you find out what the problem was in the end.plz let me know. got the same here.
zap man hi Zap man, so basically your starter motor has frozen up. Suggest a rebuild or put in a new starter motor. A rebuild is not so difficult and you can even get an auto electrician to do it cheaper than a new unit. What happens is all the moving components get stiff and then there is not enough power to in the unit to spin up. Sometimes it could be a bearing inside as well. So a complete rebuild should solve all that.
@@seanfenwick Hi I'm having the same problem my 2010 lr2 I've replaced the starter and same thing
I have a Land Rover LR2 I cant start my car because it says steering column locked can u tell how u got it started I still don’t understand in your video
Jeremiah Lansangan tell me more?
Hi, 100% the starter motor, this can be repaired or replaced. Can happen to any car, at any time,
It’s not the starter mate iv got same issue iv replaced starter with genuine part and a new battery same thing just clicks and nothing happens in tearing my hair out atm
I have FL2 HSE I6 engine it has starting problem and missing can you tell me any advise
On the petrol motors start with the spark plugs, make sure you’re getting a good spark and check that the plus is correct. Then check the HT leads and just continue to eliminate items methodically. Also check fuel pump and pressure of fuel pump as well as all inline filters. Basically make sure the engine is getting fuel, air and spark. The starting problem could be an worn starter motor. If all that checks out it could be dirty fuel. If you have a video let me know
Hi have u found out what was the problem I've got the Same problem
Mine was a faulty alternator so I just had a good auto-electrician refurbish the unit and put it back in.. quick and cheap
@@seanfenwick Hi Sean, How is possible that the problem was with an alternator? It makes me sence that the problem should have been with a starter as you were not able to start your car.
I had the same problem it was the crankshaft sensor
How to Starting Engine Fuel & Sensor problems
Hi my Eric lgot the problem also my car l was driving they cut off the deshbonder does is move the key was lock does came out and the batien they show red
When I brought mine freelander, I had to replace my starter too,
Why not a reconditioned unit?
I did, there sold reconditioned, you have to give them the old one .
gear is not in parking position.
If you continue reading my comments it was eventually the starter motor which needed and overhaul. But at the same time weak battery.. I know how an auto works since I had owned this vehicle for a number of years already
I have a 2014 freelander coachman. Last year started having problems starting it with the key in. Then I didn't have the problem. This year I had the same problem, someone told me it's the battery, the battery was check out they said it's still good. It did and didn't start. I got a new battery and it was ok , until I was ready to take a trip home. When I stop at rest area, turned it off and guess what, it wouldn't start. Ask a man to help, he jiggle the key and it started. Thank God. I got home and to it to the rv shop and they change 3 sensor, everything was working good, went to Stanford Ct. Will be going to Philly checked it to make sure everything worked. A friend stop by to see why my carbonator was beeping, The battery under steps wasn't working, I got 2 new battery installed one, still would start, waited a few hours an it started.Will check it out tomorrow. Now I am trying to find out how to connect the other battery to the new one I just. You tube need help. Think all I need is 2 cables and connect them together. I know the red red and negative to negative.
Gale Watkins that’s a really strange one. Batteries generally speaking can’t die that quickly. Check your alternator output is about 14v. Change the remote battery. Another known problem is check for a bad earth connection. These are all primary quick steps
Starter motor
You lucky it even starts,mine shows a e on the dash and will not even attempt to start,on top of that has been a electronic nightmare for the past year,bit the worse part is there is nobody that knows enough about this vehicles to fix it! This is,in my 40 years driving, the worst car I ever have!
12masterr sorry bout that man. I’ve had worse vehicles, mine works very hard for me. But there was another fault that happened recently. The exhaust gasket can begin to blow hot gas over your wiring loom and then the car is immobile. We have some excellent mechanics but perhaps you can post a vid and ask us to look at it.
@@seanfenwick thanks! When you put the smart key in,all the dash ligths up, a E appears on the right small dash,and the temp gauge go all the way up. And will not do anything. It was the same when it was doing it on the road,same thing will happen, tje car will not react to the gas pedal, and will go crazy with messages like transmission faul,hdc not available, and more. But at the time you can shut the vehicle and restart it,and everything will go back to normal. Now will not even start! (New battery too). Also,it will not communicate with tje obd2 reader either!
12masterr get the mechanic to check the wiring loom near the exhaust manifold for damage.
about to donate my car, has been the least reliable car I've ever owned and it received very regular maintenance
@master we have the same problem and did you get any help?😢
You have starter motor issues is clicking not returning the should be
Have reconditioned and will be perfect
Car diagnostic Technician it was indeed the issue. So I did recondition the starter motor and been working fine since..
My car wont start😭 its not the batter i just bought a brand new one and the lights inside the car still turn on i can listen to music and the windows still work it just doesnt run anyone know whats the issue??
Sara Hermida can you post a video of the problem? Sounds like the starter motor is stuck and won’t spin. What is your location? A good Land Rover independent mechanic should sort it.
Sean Fenwick Oregon!
You Americans like this car then?
John Salmon well I’m South African, so I don’t know how you come to that conclusion. At 270000km it is still performing pretty well and my particular unit has to really work quite hard at towing, loading, long distance cruising and generally a dogs body. Many other types would have broken properly by now. So yeah it’s a good car. It has its faults but every vehicle does. If I had to choose another car to do the same work it would be a Touareg.
@@seanfenwick awesome engines. People use them as everyday cars here in UK. It's crazy
American?
1. He doesn't sound American
2. It's a right hand drive
I have a 2010 land rover range rover HSE not supercharged or sport just the regular one. Same problem I changed out the starter but the engine just won't start full battery everything works electrically but nothing on the engine. I am getting that click as well. My car is in the shop at the moment and the mechanic can't figure it out. If anyone can suggest something please tell me . Thanks
@@charlesrandolph102 I can help, tell him. To put a socket and half inch long bar on the main front crankshaft pulley. If you can not turn it with big bar then crankshaft snapped.
If its the 3.0 diesel there common for this. Milage don't matter I've seen it seized at 20k
Should’ve gave the starter some healthy taps with a hammer
Gave the starter an overhaul
Landrover freelander 2 have a serious issue in winter with voltage drop had my battery tested it had a weak cell new battery cured the problem there are niggling issues, with the electronics on them some say bad software programming ALL computer controlled engines and body controlled electronics are a pain in the rear. Thunder storms set off my alarm system at 3am in the morning its, not funny.
Mine has now 310000km and apart from the exhaust gasket being a pain I have had much else to worry about.
@@seanfenwick doing well then mines, had maf and map sensors was throwing low boost pressure code more than likely split in the air duct from the turbo known to split especially from the intercooler to throttle body I've upgraded the throttle gears to brass as an after market kit rather than the plastic as they are known to strip.