"D2 takes a lousy edge and holds it forever". It was it was a quote by R.W. Loveless as he remarked to Dozier as to why he did not and would not use it. Loveless and his business partner in the Loveless Shop, Jim Merritt and I were close friends, and I fully disagreed with Loveless on this point. (So did Jim secretly). Mr. Loveless brought us 154-cm. flew t Japan and convinced them to make ATS-34 when 154-CM became hard to obtain and RWL-34. Super steels in their day and were the first to really open the eyes of what was possible with Stain Resisting Steels, when stainless steel was basically pot and pan metal in cheap knives. A stigma still held by many who are not privy to what is really available today. Bob. Loveless was quite impressed with the edges I got on D2. The issue is the Vanadium in the steel. On the other hand, many steels have much more vanadium and they too require a sharpening medium harder than the Vanadium carbides in which can be up to 81 HRc. And this is the very reason so many people complain that they are not getting the long lasting edges with such steels as SV-20, M390, S-110, and S90v. (ON a side note, as far as I know, Corbit Sigman and I were the only two makers who could fully and flawlessly mirror polish D-2. Some could pull it on one some batches, but rarely. Yeah, we had a secret. LOL! Now who in the history of edged weapons, knives, implements, through out history has ever had a secret)? :
As a child in the 60s, wanting to work, prospective employers told me to come back in ten years when I'm old enough to be hired, so I decided to learn a skill so valuable that I would have my own customers and I'd produce quality so high that my youth would be overlooked. I learned to sharpen from old people who would shave with the straight razors they sharpened which was even then a dying art. I took it further, teaching myself, using a surgical microscope. Seeing my dedication, I got the gift if the book: "Custom Knives and Their Makers." I was trusted to sharpen these extremely valuable knives. My brothers got what they wanted in stamp and coin collecting and I got what I wanted which was to be dropped off at the doorsteps of those custom makers. I asked them to show me all of their secrets and was typically greeted with a belly laugh and explanation that no one gets their secrets. But, they individually relented with the notion that I was just a kid and took me in and showed me everything including what even their competitors didn't know. They all had their secrets! Generally, it was not so much the equipment and modifications, but their techniques and extraordinary skills. I might be the only person in the world alive today with the advantage of knowing the secrets of these famous custom knifemakers listed in the back of that book with their addresses. I went on to become a machinist and studied metallurgy and used the best of machinery and manufacturing equipment. RonaldHLevine4548@yahoo.com
With D2 being my favorite steel, it comprises 60% of the knives in my collection. What I learned is that D2 is very very hard to properly heat treat and the quality of the metal will depend on that even more than other steels. A well heat treated D2 can get sharper than a standard razor and keep that edge almost as long as an M390. I have a Maserin Reactor knife in D2 that keeps a shaving edge 30% longer than an M390 knife.
How can you tell if its been heat treated properly? Do you just sharpen it and test it? Also, do you know where I can find more information about this?
I have two knives in D2 that hold a razor edge really well and aren’t terrible to sharpen to razor levels. I have 3 knives in d2 that I could spend two hours on the stones and not get a great edge on because it just rolls a fine edge. S30v and the likes tend to have better heat treat with the premium view and as such sharpen well and hold the edge. D2 could be right there with it if it had the Paul Bos heat treat, k110 is. Solid example too.
If d2 is outcutting m390 it's because the m390 is heat treated horribly. D2 is a quality budget steel but it's use of almost only chromium carbides (and quite a lot of it for an ingot steel) caps it edge retention at a pretty low point. If we assume all steels are heat treated ideally then d2 will cut within spitting distance of s35vn. That would place it above 3v but still significantly below s30v and especially m390. Additionally, and decently treated steel can be gotten razor sharp. D2 isn't terribly difficult to sharpen but still isn't no where near as as easy to get a screaming edge on as something like 1095, aebl, 14c28n, or (in my opinion) 440c.
@@Freakmaster480 It is quite true that m390 is often poorly heat treated. Far harder to heat treat than D-2. and why it is so often lack luster. Properly heat treated to at least 61 hr-c, is outstanding! D-2 is mostly heat treated to 57-58. I was one of the people who pioneered the 2+2+2+ method of draw for D-2 and run it at 61-63 Hr-c. So treated, it is not brittle at all and colds a screaming edge for a very long time! KnifeMaker/Retired after over 47+ years in the Craft
The trick with D2, or probably with any other knife steel is to not let it dull too much. Practice honing or stropping after every use, if possible. In that way you wouldn't have to resharpen the blade, but just regularly touching up the edge. Hope that helps. ✌🏼😁
I have a D2 blade I carried for two years, used every day. Sharpened it once ( by hand, spent an hour), touched up on a ceramic stick after one year. 👍
I've been adding a single serration that doubles as a sharpening choil. That way it doesn't get caught up as easily as a normal choil. Just keep it sharp with a diamond rod or sandpaper wrapped around a toothpick
I am pretty new to folders, and have got three new folders with D2 the past 3-4 months. I use a Work Sharp Precision Adjust and have no problems reshaping and sharpening to shave hairs on my arm. I like D2. I have sharpened both 18 and 16 degrees with no problem. These knives are slicers. I do not use them cutting metal, chopping trees etc. For my use it works. I've read that those large carbides makes the edge almost micro serrated, which may be an advantage for some materials. I also think my CRKT Pilar III with D2 is a candidate for an every day EDC. It came with a rather acute edge (about 17 degrees each side), and I did a reshaping to 16 degrees. Cuts paper, hair, paracord and tomatoes like soft butter. My first D2 was an Adimanti Skimen D2 (made by Ganzo). I just love that design and its slicyness. So much in fact, that I got a second one for harder use, so I can keep my first one collectible. I have put an 18 degree edge on both.
@@DinoNucci he's mot the only one. i have the same sharpener and I have an easier time putting a razer edge on my d2 blades than I do my 154cm, cpm curwear. s35v blades that I have. I actually have my sog terminus in d2 so sharp right now it scares me to mess with it.
In my experience with D2 it’s the heat treat that makes it able to get a sharp edge. Even then it’s definitely not the easiest steel to sharpen and get a hair popping edge on. It takes patience no matter what but some D2 I’ve never been able to get hair popping and some I have.
I agree, D2 or K110 with poor heat treat are awful to sharpen. If the heat treat is good enough, it'll just take some time but it'll get as sharp as any steel :)
I use a Worksharp Precision Adjust with diamond plates and get my premium D2 knives (Medford, ADV, Quiet Carry etc.) as sharp as anything. A bit of work and a leather strop, and you can get a polished edge too.
I have a beautiful mirror polish on the edge of my D2 CJRB Feldspar. It wasn't too difficult at all, maybe took several more strokes per grit than your standard AUS8 or 8crMov.
@@spyhunter6411 Yeah it’s really good only problem I find is that I am not the best with pocket knives and small knives on it i prefer a manual system like diamond stones for that stuff but it’ll fix a badly damaged kitchen knife with ease !
The Sgian Dubh is usually worn inside the sock, and held in place by friction, sometimes with a simple elastic band under the sock. Back when the English forbade the wearing of any weapons by the Scottish Highlanders, the Scots had to get creative in hiding their knives, since swords were definitely not allowed. Dirks were worn behind the back, and the Sgian Dubh was worn inside the sock...out of sight. Nowadays the Sgian Dubh (black knife*) is usually mostly decorative, with a 3 to 3.5 inch blade, a flattened handle (to fit closely alongside the leg), and made of horn or stag and often with a "jeweled" crown. A good modern folding version of a Sgian Dubh is the Cold Steel Hold Out. *The original Sgian Dubh's were often made with black ebony handles.
@@gimliismyhero2045 :- l will look it up 👍 The Secret Edge is exactly the same knife (in fixed blade) as the Hold Out. Very much a modern Sgian Dubh. Edit:- Both the hold Out and the Secret Edge are available at the Knife Center.
@@blueeyeswhitedragon9839 Look up the Cold Steel Culloden. Not sure if they still make them but they were basically made to be a modern sgian duhb. A bit bigger than the secret edge, both in handle and blade.
@@craigjomaia :- A bit large for discrete carry in the sock, but still a good representation of a Sgian Dubh. I don't think it is a catalogue item for Cold Steel, but still available on Amazon.
Kilt wearer here. For a modern Sgian Dubh (“Skeen doo”), check out the Cold Steel Secret Edge (fixed) or the Cold Steel Hold Out series (folding). AUS8 on the Secret Edge, perfectly usable, but also wish they offered a better steel option with better edge holding as well. The Hold Out series is great; I’m disappointed they discontinued the most useful 4” length version - wish they’d bring it back. Side note: Sgian Dubh translates to “black knife”. It used to be a hidden knife worn in the armpit region, but is now often worn as a sock-knife, tucked to the side of the leg. Story as I heard it, is that one would tuck the hidden knife in their sock as a gesture of trust, friendliness, and non-aggression when in company of trusted companions.
I'd recommend the Boker Barlow BFF, great little fixed blade with an incredible sheath that has a clip. Great for pocket carry and I can see it tucked in a sock.
Thanks for the always-entertaining episode, Mr. Andersen and Thomas. Favorite hard use folders? Cold Steel Drop Point Voyagers - Large and XL. Proportionally lighter, thinner, and more efficient at cutting than my AD-10, AD-15, and 4MAX Lite. Still indestructible.
Thank you Mr. Anderson. You are erudite. I appreciate that you know your business. Although an unapologetic plug for your shop's inventory, I appreciate your insight and brevity. Your quotation sounds like something Bill Moran would have said.
I love D2 for a knife blade I have a few , I don't find any difficulty sharpening and I prefer using oil on an Arkansas Stone then stopping on leather with diamond paste . I liked hearing advise of 20 degree angle because that's what I use . Thanks for this review and info share .
*Yes it is!* Speaking from experience. D2, A2, and literally every steel classed as a Tool Steel is a nightmare to resharpen once it goes dull. Folks love to talk about how amazingly long such steels stay sharp. True! But the nature of Tool Steels is why they stay sharp for such a long time. The are super hard. That's their nature. So, when they do get dull, good luck sharpening them! You'd have an easier time challenging a Sherman tank while armed with a toothpick! As much as I love my two custom Bob Dozier hunting knives I bought in the 1990s, those will continue to be the ONLY D2 bladed knives in my collection. And, sadly, they don't get used. (This was back when D2 was a premium and expensive steel.)
D2 has been my favorite steel to use. I start with 80grit then 100grit and if it needs it 220. I use aluminum oxcide wet stones and get a very polished edge and you can shave very comfortable with it.
Hey David, I asked this question last year at this time, and you wanted some more specifics, but forgot to get back to me. Totally understandable. You guys have made one hell of a channel. Frankly...I don't know how you guys do it all, but it brings me A LOT of joy. Anyway...I have an annual anniversary I wish to commemorate with an engraving. I am thinking fixed blade, but that isn't written in steel (couldn't help myself) I would like it to be an EDC. Not opposed to a pocket carry fixed blade, which I know you are partial to. Leaning toward perhaps traditional/modern traditional. Handle styling and fit and finish over blade steel type, with with a primary bevel that is ground for cutting efficiency. Something maybe a bit off the beaten path, but again...it really just comes down this. I respect your opinion, and I would like to know what you might by for yourself in my situation. No wonder you wanted more info huh? I'd love it to cost under 150, but 200 max. Keep up the great work DCA, Seth V, and Reverse Tanto Thomas.
I’ve been carrying Cuda Max D2 pocket knifes by Darell Ralph and Camillus knifes for 20 years. I own 4 of them because I love the size and how well they are constructed. The D2 is hard to sharpen but I use two ceramic rods and they seem to work. But D2 does hold an edge longer than most other steel.
For food prep in that same size and shape but with more depth for knuckle clearance, BGM Knives' CKK (compact kitchen knife). They're custom made so more expensive but worth it. Young John Miller (22) very talented does beautiful work and is a pleasure to deal with.
I like D2, it seems to like a "toothy" edge best, but my Knives of Alaska Camp knife and capers hold up very well with a course ceramic filament bulb from an old metal halide high intensity flood light as a touch up... I am kind of a hillbilly steel nerd of sorts and have a variety of fixed blade steels in my "collection", like S30v, S35, m390, and a few other random numbered spring steel types, but my most durable and toughest edge is on a winkler belt knife in his 80crv2, nothing else i have used is even close to that knifes ability to take and keep it's edge. All that ramblin out of the way, to my way of thinkin the heat treat is the secret to the steel, and the right heat can make a truck leaf spring a sword.
I had issues trying to hone my SOG Flash AT with a D2 blade. But I took a hint from Chef Jacques Pepin and used the unglazed ceramic "rim" on the back of a china plate. That did the job very nicely! Yes, you can hone a knife with the back of a china plate! Maybe you could demo that in an upcoming video?
I’ve never had a problem sharpening D2. Granted, I use a Ken Onion Worksharp or diamond whetstones. It never gets hair popping sharp, but it does take a clean working edge. Works best with a convex edge to give it some support and prevent that chipping you get with an aggressive edge.
The few D2 knives I have (I’m sure rebranded but they’re MAC tools) don’t have any issue sharpening up, it’s a little more work but they get sharp and hold it.
I EDC a Rat 2 D2 and use it a lot in my gardening job . At first I was annoyed at it for not wanting to touch up like I was used to with other steels , but then I found out that on the spyderco medium ceramic with a bit more pressure than usual , and then some stropping will quite quickly give it a very useful edge for what I use it for. And it will shave off arm hairs, but I wouldn’t want to shave my face with it 😆 tooooothy ...
I sharpen my d2 folders on the dmt or my sharpal diamond stones and they’re fine. I stop at medium grit and then strop on leather and they’re good to go. Good working blades
With standard D2 heat treatment and manufacturing matter quite a bit so I've never been a fan of it, especially on cheaper knives(Bob Dozier does great stuff with D2). Cpm D2 and psf 27 are a nice upgrade since the Carbides are smaller and more uniform increasing edge stability, toughness and a finer grain resulting in a finer edge. Russian X12 is pretty nice too(quite similar but a few small differences in composition) and they do a great job with heat treatment. On a $40-$70 knife I'll take 14c28n or Nitro-v any day over D2.
@@MFD00MTR33 it's cold rolled AEB-L at AKS. From Buderus usually. Not 14c28n. Sad face. Also Chuck banned me because he thought I was trying to get them into trouble and.. I was just getting information from John Shiesley.. I never intended to cause an issue legally. not that I let that stop me from getting stuff. Just annoying.
Hm, I had my first D2 steel just a few months ago. It came shaving sharp and I kept the edge razor sharp with the smoother side of my two-sided ceramic sharpener to go. Gotta say I had no trouble like that. It is also a neck knife, and I wore it pretty much constantly through the summer and the heatwaves. And even with the salty and moist environment I had not even a hint of even the faintest rust appearing. Love it! 🥰 And I especially love it because I am more on the budget side of things. 😅
I LOVE my Kershaw JYD 2 flipper. It has a 13c26 spine and blade body. The edge is CPM-D2 edge. It took a while but I got it shaving sharp and it rarely needs to be touched up
I, too, noticed that my SPEW didn't have a sharpening choyle. Glad someone thought to ask. As far as sharpening D2... I use automotive sandpaper that's designed for tool steel. I'm not a knife sharpening expert, however, all my knives are hair-popping sharp, now. I have 2 D2 blades, 1 RPM 90, Aus8 on the rest. Then my Mora. The videos I watched the guy used the automotive sandpaper like a strop. The 3000 grit is where you get your mirror edge.
Tim Olsen - There are a couple of makers I suggest you check out: Boker, L.T. Wright, Bark River, Anza, and Kellam knives. All make either horn, stag, or wood handles that would be a great Sgian Dubh. Look specifically at: Boker Arbolito Stag Hunter, Boker Knives Cub, Boker Knives AK1, L.T. Wright Patriot and Great Plainsman, Boker Arbolito Relincho Cuerno de Ciervo, and the Kellam Knives Finnish Falcon or Wolverine. For a budget option, consider the Real Steel Knives Bushcraft Plus, it has a 14C28N blade (one of my favorite steels) with golden ebony handles and a leather sheath.
I'll take another stab at the elegant outdoor stainless fixed blade to food prep with: I don't know it was recently discontinued, but if you can find it, the Lucas Burnley Boker plus fixed blade kwaiken has worked well for me as a decent outdoors and as a solid paring knife around camp.
First time i heard the phrase was on spyderco forums talking about s110v. When i finally tried the steel, the phrase definitely matched my experience 😅 Good thing is, learning how to use microbevels on my edges solved the issue 😁 (for the most part)
I have a question about stropping compounds. Are the colors universal as far as the grit ratings are concerned? I just bought some from your site, and would like to know what colors are for what level, or phase of sharpening/stropping. Thanks for all of the great content!
Hey DCA, for the gent in the Kilt, I would probably recommend the Lionsteel B35 or M1. He may need to go custom on the sheaths, but either knife is a nice size and can do a lot of EDC.
In my personal experience, I’ve never had issues with putting a sharp edge on D2. Whether it’s my QSP Penguin, Kershaw - Emerson CQC-4KXL, PF Beluga, (K110) but still essentially D2, etc. sharpening with diamond stones and maybe laying the angle back a bit never hurts. Sharpening basics and fundamentals are the same across the board regardless of the steel you’re sharpening.
hey DCA me and my 12 yr old son both got mora companion knives , and although they have been great knives, we would like to upgrade. a usual camp trip will include processing wood for fires, making tent stakes, cutting ropes/cord, processing bark and food prep, we also find the moras pretty easy to sharpen and maintain. could you reccomend a fixed blade knife in the 50-75 dollar range please.
I have a parrot and penguin by Q.S.P. I sharpen my parrot (which it and my SAK Spartan are my daily EDC) By hand and can get it scary sharp.I love D2 myself and feel it's pretty close to VG 10.🦉
I have an Artisan small Archeo with a D2 blade. On one side of the edge I can slide my thumb nail down towards the edge and it catches in a groove or fold over that I cannot sharpen out. I'm using a Spyderco tri edge sharpener. It's driving me crazy because I really like this knife. Do I have to grind the whole edge down and start over sharpening it? Thanks for reading this long question if you do.
I would help you further your contradiction about the Silax! I find it to be an excellent portable food prep knife as well, which I bring with me when going OUTDOORS! Whether it’s a casual picnic, camp kitchen, or a romantic dinner date with a Sasquatch, it’s all OUTDOORS! So there, an outdoors knife! 😆
I use my blades 10-20 times a day. Work and home. Every evening I re-hone the edge and oil with gun oil. Doesn't take long and is easy as they aren't dull. Want all my edc's razor sharp the same every day. An old ritual that's quick, fairly easy for keeping up the edge where there is never a dull moment...thank you, I am out!
14:36 CRKT M16-03BS 😅 Holds up well! Good bang for buck and very easy to maintain. 🙂 And it also has one of the very rare, actually good sharpening choils, that does not cause any problems while cutting from way back of the edge. 🤫
The extra second life D2 got was when Crucible did CPM D2 which made the carbides smaller and allowed for a finer edge and better edge stability over ingot D2 while still having a similar toughness and edge retention.
Also for adding that sharpening choil, I'd advise round chainsaw rat tail files. Less risk of overheating like a rotary for the bulk cutting material, then use a fine grit flap or barrel end on a rotary at a lower speed to achieve the fine grit smooth finish. Just keep cool water flowing over it slowly (keeping the electric part of your tool out of the water, of course) and it'll get you a nice polish without compromising things.
My QSP Penguin in D2 is hair popping sharp, not hair whittling sharp but I haven't really tried. I noticed that it got the best bitey edge when I don't go over 800 or 1200 grit. I personally prefer 600/1200 or 800/1200 dual grit edge on my D2. I sharpened it at 17 or 20 degree per side. The most important part is feeling the bur, for me the side of my fingers tend to feel the bur better than the finger pads.
I have several D2 steel knives. I also have a variety of different sharpening systems, including the KME. Several of the sharpeners do fine on D2. I have no problem at all sharpening D2. Just be sure you have a decent sharpener.
From experience like many others have stated the edge you’re able to get on D2 has a lot to do with the heat treat. I have tons of D2 knives and everything I sharpen with or use being identical, some come out super sharp and others not so much. Either way I’m not a fan of D2 and usually only but knives made of D2 for beater knives or because they’re cheap.
If you are looking for a D2 blade you can ultra sharpen. I would recommend the Kershaw Sinkevich Concierge Liner Lock Knife Brown Micarta (3.25" SW D2) 4020MCB and also in Kershaw Sinkevich Concierge Liner Lock Knife Green Micarta (3.25" Black SW) 4020MCG they are a hollow ground blade.
Would love to know your opinion on pull through knife sharpeners, i used my 440 stainless knife at work cutting turf and by the end of the day it was super blunt im thinking they will be the most efficient way to sharpen it than wasting my good stones?
The first time I came across the D2 quote was from a certain David C Andersen back in the TTAK days. I still think about that as I sharpen my D2 blades (often!)
Hey DCA, and Thomas too! Sorry about your little disease vector! 😸 Hope you and her stay safe! I recently began letting my indoor cat take little excursions into the yard, and I've been using a couple Cold Steel machetes as cat defense tools. Poking around in potential snake holes, clearing some brush, light chopping, that sorta thing. They're perfectly serviceable of course, but because I have Knife Guy Brain Disease, I've been thinking about upgrading. Having trouble picking one, though. Preferably around or under $100, but I'm flexible. I'd like it to come with a pretty nice comfortable handle out of the box, maybe micarta, but I know that could raise the budget. I think I'd also like it to be a bit longer, maybe 18 inches? You know, to really get some distance from those terrifying garter snakes. I don't love the black coating on the ones I have, but I've seen that on many from other brands as well, like the lovely Condor Golok. How important is it to have that coating if I'm prepared to oil carbon steel after use? TL;DR Nice machete around $100 for yard work and critter menacing. C'mon, you know you want to put a couple nice big fixed blades on that table. Thanks!
The condor primitive bush dagger might work for a Sgiun-Dubh The sheath isn’t right but it’s pretty and I bet some DIY leather work could make a sheath with a tab ( similar to Matt Graham’s other desighns) that would nestle in a sock quite slim
I was also looking towards Condor for a solution. What stuck out to me was their Cavelore. And for something more modern, SOG Pentagon FX. Though neither are lightweight. While the SOG doesn't have a leather sheath, it seems ready to fill the role of modern Sgiun-Dubh. But I am not Scottish, so WTF do I know?
Earliest I can find that quote is by a guy names "Will" who goes by "Penguin" on 24hourcampfire: === I carry Queen knives exclusively. Pocket: 1095 canoe in crimson bone Hunting: 1095 mountain man trapper in red bone Processing: D2 trapper with red stag scales D2 takes a lousy edge and holds it forever which makes it perfect for processing the meat. But for a sharp edge nothing beats the old timers steel: 1095. Will
I use worksharp Ken onion now but I use to hone by stone it will take a hair popping edge but it takes alot longer than say 1095 but once I get an edge I like it only takes a few strokes on a ceramic once in a blue moon never have to actually profile it again
I remember hearing that phrase by either Matt Martin or Jim Stewart on the Behind the Blade podcast several years ago now; D2 takes a bad edge and holds it forever. I work in an extremely humid environment so I stick to stainless options myself.
I also only have one titanium frame lock flipper myself lol it's not the hinderer Jurassic, though I've seen them in stock all around lately and may pull the trigger one one of those or a firetac. Mine is the new chaves ultramar street liberation in full TI with a drop point that just recently came out. I've wanted a street liberation since reate first started making them like 3 or so years ago and I also want a redencion but couldn't find any for less than 500 so when I seen these were dropping a couple weeks ago I had to order one as soon as they dropped and I freaking love the knife. If I had any complaints about it, the one complaint would be the corners on the back of the knife are a little sharp when flipping the knife. You don't notice when using, only when flipping and they are that sharp, but could definitely be rounded a little more.
Thats cause everyone is tying to get rid of their Hinderer's and no one wants to buy them after that BS lawsuit of his against that kid who exposed him out on his bad heat treat.
Love how to go into detail… but I am left handed and a fixed blade fanatic as well. So would like a fixed blade that’s able to be on left side. I had the Winkler belt knife but someone stole it while I was working “wilderness surveyor “. Any other options that are good in similar or less price range? Thanks!
I don't have "Thick Fur" as suggested. I have a silky but sturdy mat of hair much like you Hoomuns have on your heads, only my body hair is a little more dense and about 3" long in most spots. Fun Fact, I do shed! As I travel from my Summer home in the Upper regions of the Pacific Northwest, British Columbia and Alaska to my Winter residence of Guaymas Mexico I shed my heavier "Woods" coat for a much lighter sandy coloured hair, I guess to match the Sonoran desert colour of my hacienda.
A D2 working edge is all you need, no need to strop at .1 micron. Remember knives are tools and D2 is a great tool steel. Leave the obsession to want to cut the fabric of time.
That last sentence made me laugh. Well said. I often find myself getting too worked up over getting a “perfect” edge when all I really need is a sharp knife.
I'd like to know why most makers make so few knives that are thin cutters. Benchmade has the Bugout with 0.100"/2.5mm, Spydecro did great with Chaparral at 0.080"/2mm and there's a few other knives out there. But for a lot of makers 0.125"/3.2mm is considered thin and a lot of knives are in the 0.156"/4mm to 0.200"/5mm and even thicker. The difference in cutting cardboard with a 2mm thin knife and a 5mm is huge, especially if one is ground thin and the other has a "utility, heavy duty" edge. To me knives are made for cutting, if you want to pry use a pry bar.
Hey DCA, I'm looking to replace my old Smith & Wesson Oasis SW421. I want it to be a similar size, both in blade length and overall length. I mainly use it at the warehouse opening boxes, cutting straps, etc. Something I won't have to baby or sharpen frequently below 100 dollars. Thank you!
I have very specific wants in my work edc it needs to be light it needs a pocket clip it needs to be tip down carry and it needs to have some sort of hole in the blade . I want to be able to reach in my pocket with thumb and for finger pull it out and wrist flick the handle down for deployment . Must be two hundred dollars or less. I will be useing this knife daily at work until it dulls to the point of not working this takes a while I will then tell my wife it doesn't work thereby justifying another purchase. Thank you dca and team.
Ah hah! The only Ti Frame-lock Folder in your personal collection is revealed :-) I have a Half-Track myself, love the heft of it, and the action. Really have gone all in on 'making my own' though maybe not in ways that Rick would approve of -- been learning to anodize titanium myself and have swapped nearly every screw.
Being of Nordic and Scottish decent, a small puukko with a more decorative handle would make a great sgian dubh. Helle is a great option. I’m also a fan of the Lt Wright pronghorn.
Dude that snody is sweet for the price. Handle is alittle short but blade is very sharp and sheath is Awsome for edc. One of the best sheaths going. I’m not a big kabar fan but this one is nice.
DCA… I need advice on my next knife purchase, I went through my gas station phase and through my ganzo phase! My last 3 purchases has been a pmp spartan, kizer roach, and lastly a AD 20.5! Where should I go next to continue to climb the knife ladder? PS… what would a man have to do to “get” his hands on one of your personal knives? Say if he wanted to donate it for one of the prizes for supporting knife rights during the 24 hour knife channel marathon this year? 😉
Hey, DCA, I'm looking for a knife for my dad sub $300. He works outside and often breaks tips on knives, and if he doesn't break them, he rounds them off when sharpening. He wants something he can one-hand open and close and preferably USA-made. His favorite knife years ago was the Kershaw Leek, so something in that size but less likely to break. Thanks for the help. Ps thought about a tanto to love the sharpening issue.
You can hand sharp D2 to shaving sharp it just takes time and if you have low quality tools it takes even longer time so some good tools and your golden, a good tip is to start on like a 220stone and go from there as it will cut a bit faster in the tough steel.
I have a cheap Skandi D2 and I can easily field sharpen it with a cheap v-angle pocket whetstone. Sure, it's not sharp like a razor, but it easily cuts everything I need it to and I can resharpene it in 30 seconds. I think for 90% of all use cases it's perfectly fine and for the other 10 you probably don't want an outdoor knife anyways
Lock types. I have a CRKT Bev-Edge frame lock as my EDC and just got a Buck Ranger 112 back lock. Folders will never be as secure as fixed blades, what it your opinion comes close?
I’ve got a few Boker Kalsh autos and a KC exclusive AD 20.5 in D2 (K110). I’ve also got a few of the cheap Ganzo knives in D2. D2 is harder to sharpen than many other steels. From everything I’ve read on D2. It seems like it’s harder to heat treat properly in a production environment. I follow several RUclipsrs that do knife testing and D2 usually falls short on the heat treatment no matter who made it.
So a lousy edge that lasts is exactly what it's designed for. Punching dies, shredding blades and so on. Good thing to remember a number of knife steels have been adapted to, not designed for. Question: Fender or Gibson? Relevance being which cuts through a mix better? 🤔 *edit: typo.
Number one thing with d2 is Diamond or CBN stones only so you are cutting the carbides as well as the surrounding steel matrix. Number two as with any steel holding your angle consistent from side to side ... Number 3 do not allow a large burr to be pulled up, keep the burr fine as all D2 even well heat treated D2 likes to hold on to its burr and allowing a large burr to be pulled up and flipped will not break off cleanly when you deburr.. So long as the d2 is not super soft and it's in the 59-61 range and you do your job D2 gets super sticky sharp, hair whittling sticky sharp is no problem. Another thing and this goes for any steel but especially for D2 and other milder tool steels do not over strop it, if it's not sharp off the stones your not gonna get it sharp with a strop.. come off your diamond stones and make a pass or two per side on some nice firm leather with some polydiamond emulsion in a grit that suits the finishing stone and that's it it's ready to go. Over stropping smooths out the cutting surfaces of the carbides and slicks off the micro serrations quickly. I have sharpened custom HT d2 and it was a world class blade steel and felt absolutely amazing on the stones took an amazing edge and edge retention is excellent. Poorly done D2 is difficult to pull up a nice fine burr and it's very difficult to deburr as the burr just flops from side to side and doesn't want to break off exposing a clean apex on soft D2 knowing how to properly do a micro bevel is your best friend..
Until recently I've managed to get my D2 penguin very sharp but not shaving sharp. So last time I did a sharpening session I spent more time stropping and honing. Much better results.
On the sgian dhu " black or dark blade" front as a Scot myself I've recently made a brisa necker and scara. They make lovely sheaths but I made one with a strong clip so I can pocket carry a fixed blade or slot it down my work boots in a modern sgian dhu alternative.
I ran my sog Trident D2 through a work sharp sharpener 3 times. It got better but its not there yet. Its no as good my cold steel voyager out the box. Probably 3-5 more times tonight. Should be good
I’d say that how dull are you letting your knives get ? My D2 Sog Terminus xR came with a fine edge, I use a kitchen honing steel after every couple uses. Pops back up. The Spyderco Sharpmaker makes an appearance roughly quarterly throughout the year. More if necessary. Personally I had a harder time resharpening my BM grip h20 with x15-TN steel. Summed up. Dont. Let. You. Knives. Get. Dull. And lastly not all if need a mirror skin blistering razor edge. A sharp working edge is where I keep my knives and they are not going to chip or gouge.
D2 is definitely hard for (at least) me to sharpen. Give my 154cm or 14c28n all day, over D2. I even use a fixed angle sharpening system and still takes FOREVER
DCA! I need your help! I’ve been looking for a comprehensive folding knife maintenance video. Something that covers cleaning, lubricating, sharpening and storage. Please maybe refer me to a book or some kind of information would be awesome! Stay sharp!
Along with a Buck 110 I have always had a MERCADOR K-55 somewhere handy. Looking up the MERCADOR on the net I was surprised to find it has a long history to it. Do you know of this?
@@arrowheadguys7637 i don't think you're qualified to answer this, as none of the materials you cited are as hard as Titanium. Please read the comment again, as i asked DCA, not you.
@@carloshenriquealvesdossant8855 My 20+ years of experience in engineering specializing in design and materials would differ with your opinion of my qualifications. However none of that is necessary to know that titanium is not a good material for a knife blade because it will not retain an edge and does not have the toughness to avoid chipping or breaking under use.
@@arrowheadguys7637 i don't doubt your experience, you could gave this answer instead your earlier smart @ss comment. 20+years of experience with metal work, not so much in answering questions NOT MADE FOR YOU. have a nice day.
"D2 takes a lousy edge and holds it forever". It was it was a quote by R.W. Loveless as he remarked to Dozier as to why he did not and would not use it.
Loveless and his business partner in the Loveless Shop, Jim Merritt and I were close friends, and I fully disagreed with Loveless on this point. (So did Jim secretly). Mr. Loveless brought us 154-cm. flew t Japan and convinced them to make ATS-34 when 154-CM became hard to obtain and RWL-34. Super steels in their day and were the first to really open the eyes of what was possible with Stain Resisting Steels, when stainless steel was basically pot and pan metal in cheap knives. A stigma still held by many who are not privy to what is really available today.
Bob. Loveless was quite impressed with the edges I got on D2. The issue is the Vanadium in the steel. On the other hand, many steels have much more vanadium and they too require a sharpening medium harder than the Vanadium carbides in which can be up to 81 HRc. And this is the very reason so many people complain that they are not getting the long lasting edges with such steels as SV-20, M390, S-110, and S90v.
(ON a side note, as far as I know, Corbit Sigman and I were the only two makers who could fully and flawlessly mirror polish D-2. Some could pull it on one some batches, but rarely. Yeah, we had a secret. LOL! Now who in the history of edged weapons, knives, implements, through out history has ever had a secret)? :
Stay awesome sir
Only 8 likes is a crime. Thanks for the knowledge friend!
@@SMarcey You are very Welcome. ;
As a child in the 60s, wanting to work, prospective employers told me to come back in ten years when I'm old enough to be hired, so I decided to learn a skill so valuable that I would have my own customers and I'd produce quality so high that my youth would be overlooked. I learned to sharpen from old people who would shave with the straight razors they sharpened which was even then a dying art. I took it further, teaching myself, using a surgical microscope. Seeing my dedication, I got the gift if the book: "Custom Knives and Their Makers." I was trusted to sharpen these extremely valuable knives. My brothers got what they wanted in stamp and coin collecting and I got what I wanted which was to be dropped off at the doorsteps of those custom makers. I asked them to show me all of their secrets and was typically greeted with a belly laugh and explanation that no one gets their secrets. But, they individually relented with the notion that I was just a kid and took me in and showed me everything including what even their competitors didn't know. They all had their secrets! Generally, it was not so much the equipment and modifications, but their techniques and extraordinary skills. I might be the only person in the world alive today with the advantage of knowing the secrets of these famous custom knifemakers listed in the back of that book with their addresses. I went on to become a machinist and studied metallurgy and used the best of machinery and manufacturing equipment.
RonaldHLevine4548@yahoo.com
I love D2, never had a problem sharpening to shaving sharp and put a mirror edge on it!
With D2 being my favorite steel, it comprises 60% of the knives in my collection. What I learned is that D2 is very very hard to properly heat treat and the quality of the metal will depend on that even more than other steels. A well heat treated D2 can get sharper than a standard razor and keep that edge almost as long as an M390. I have a Maserin Reactor knife in D2 that keeps a shaving edge 30% longer than an M390 knife.
Mine too but my favorite version is the sleipner I also love bohler n695 joker knives does a great job with it my favorite knife is my joker nomad
How can you tell if its been heat treated properly? Do you just sharpen it and test it? Also, do you know where I can find more information about this?
I have two knives in D2 that hold a razor edge really well and aren’t terrible to sharpen to razor levels. I have 3 knives in d2 that I could spend two hours on the stones and not get a great edge on because it just rolls a fine edge. S30v and the likes tend to have better heat treat with the premium view and as such sharpen well and hold the edge. D2 could be right there with it if it had the Paul Bos heat treat, k110 is. Solid example too.
If d2 is outcutting m390 it's because the m390 is heat treated horribly. D2 is a quality budget steel but it's use of almost only chromium carbides (and quite a lot of it for an ingot steel) caps it edge retention at a pretty low point. If we assume all steels are heat treated ideally then d2 will cut within spitting distance of s35vn. That would place it above 3v but still significantly below s30v and especially m390.
Additionally, and decently treated steel can be gotten razor sharp. D2 isn't terribly difficult to sharpen but still isn't no where near as as easy to get a screaming edge on as something like 1095, aebl, 14c28n, or (in my opinion) 440c.
@@Freakmaster480 It is quite true that m390 is often poorly heat treated. Far harder to heat treat than D-2. and why it is so often lack luster.
Properly heat treated to at least 61 hr-c, is outstanding! D-2 is mostly heat treated to 57-58. I was one of the people who pioneered the 2+2+2+ method of draw for D-2 and run it at 61-63 Hr-c. So treated, it is not brittle at all and colds a screaming edge for a very long time!
KnifeMaker/Retired after over 47+ years in the Craft
The trick with D2, or probably with any other knife steel is to not let it dull too much. Practice honing or stropping after every use, if possible. In that way you wouldn't have to resharpen the blade, but just regularly touching up the edge. Hope that helps. ✌🏼😁
I have a D2 blade I carried for two years, used every day.
Sharpened it once ( by hand, spent an hour), touched up on a ceramic stick after one year. 👍
I've been adding a single serration that doubles as a sharpening choil. That way it doesn't get caught up as easily as a normal choil. Just keep it sharp with a diamond rod or sandpaper wrapped around a toothpick
Genius!
Fantastic suggestion, thank you!
Not a bad idea.
brilliant idea!
This is very good advice!
KnifeMaker
I am pretty new to folders, and have got three new folders with D2 the past 3-4 months. I use a Work Sharp Precision Adjust and have no problems reshaping and sharpening to shave hairs on my arm. I like D2.
I have sharpened both 18 and 16 degrees with no problem. These knives are slicers. I do not use them cutting metal, chopping trees etc. For my use it works.
I've read that those large carbides makes the edge almost micro serrated, which may be an advantage for some materials.
I also think my CRKT Pilar III with D2 is a candidate for an every day EDC. It came with a rather acute edge (about 17 degrees each side), and I did a reshaping to 16 degrees. Cuts paper, hair, paracord and tomatoes like soft butter.
My first D2 was an Adimanti Skimen D2 (made by Ganzo). I just love that design and its slicyness. So much in fact, that I got a second one for harder use, so I can keep my first one collectible. I have put an 18 degree edge on both.
Ur lucky
@@DinoNucci he's mot the only one. i have the same sharpener and I have an easier time putting a razer edge on my d2 blades than I do my 154cm, cpm curwear. s35v blades that I have. I actually have my sog terminus in d2 so sharp right now it scares me to mess with it.
@@nickkuhlmam1336 well then sharpen mine
@@DinoNucci sent it over lol
Hi! What is the final grit you sharpen d2, do you put micro bevel or just strop?
In my experience with D2 it’s the heat treat that makes it able to get a sharp edge. Even then it’s definitely not the easiest steel to sharpen and get a hair popping edge on. It takes patience no matter what but some D2 I’ve never been able to get hair popping and some I have.
I agree, D2 or K110 with poor heat treat are awful to sharpen. If the heat treat is good enough, it'll just take some time but it'll get as sharp as any steel :)
I use a Worksharp Precision Adjust with diamond plates and get my premium D2 knives (Medford, ADV, Quiet Carry etc.) as sharp as anything. A bit of work and a leather strop, and you can get a polished edge too.
I use a KME with diamond stones (similar style sharpener) and have no problems either.
I love that system I want one I have the Ken onion and a field sharpener going to get the bench guided system which can sharpen D2 really well
I have a beautiful mirror polish on the edge of my D2 CJRB Feldspar. It wasn't too difficult at all, maybe took several more strokes per grit than your standard AUS8 or 8crMov.
@@grovesy333 the blade and tool grinder for the ken onion is excellent. Should have bought it years ago.
@@spyhunter6411 Yeah it’s really good only problem I find is that I am not the best with pocket knives and small knives on it i prefer a manual system like diamond stones for that stuff but it’ll fix a badly damaged kitchen knife with ease !
I just put a hair popping edge on my civivvi fixed blade in d2 in minutes. With super cheap diamond plates too. I love D2
The Sgian Dubh is usually worn inside the sock, and held in place by friction, sometimes with a simple elastic band under the sock.
Back when the English forbade the wearing of any weapons by the Scottish Highlanders, the Scots had to get creative in hiding their knives, since swords were definitely not allowed.
Dirks were worn behind the back, and the Sgian Dubh was worn inside the sock...out of sight.
Nowadays the Sgian Dubh (black knife*) is usually mostly decorative, with a 3 to 3.5 inch blade, a flattened handle (to fit closely alongside the leg), and made of horn or stag and often with a "jeweled" crown.
A good modern folding version of a Sgian Dubh is the Cold Steel Hold Out.
*The original Sgian Dubh's were often made with black ebony handles.
The secret edge by cold steel is a good fixed version of the hold out, plastic sheathing though (unless you get a custom leather one)
@@gimliismyhero2045 :- l will look it up 👍
The Secret Edge is exactly the same knife (in fixed blade) as the Hold Out.
Very much a modern Sgian Dubh.
Edit:- Both the hold Out and the Secret Edge are available at the Knife Center.
I was under the impression that the traditional handles were bog oak. The tannins in the water turn the wood black eventually.
@@blueeyeswhitedragon9839 Look up the Cold Steel Culloden. Not sure if they still make them but they were basically made to be a modern sgian duhb. A bit bigger than the secret edge, both in handle and blade.
@@craigjomaia :- A bit large for discrete carry in the sock, but still a good representation of a Sgian Dubh. I don't think it is a catalogue item for Cold Steel, but still available on Amazon.
Kilt wearer here. For a modern Sgian Dubh (“Skeen doo”), check out the Cold Steel Secret Edge (fixed) or the Cold Steel Hold Out series (folding). AUS8 on the Secret Edge, perfectly usable, but also wish they offered a better steel option with better edge holding as well. The Hold Out series is great; I’m disappointed they discontinued the most useful 4” length version - wish they’d bring it back.
Side note: Sgian Dubh translates to “black knife”. It used to be a hidden knife worn in the armpit region, but is now often worn as a sock-knife, tucked to the side of the leg. Story as I heard it, is that one would tuck the hidden knife in their sock as a gesture of trust, friendliness, and non-aggression when in company of trusted companions.
I'd recommend the Boker Barlow BFF, great little fixed blade with an incredible sheath that has a clip. Great for pocket carry and I can see it tucked in a sock.
Thanks for the always-entertaining episode, Mr. Andersen and Thomas.
Favorite hard use folders? Cold Steel Drop Point Voyagers - Large and XL. Proportionally lighter, thinner, and more efficient at cutting than my AD-10, AD-15, and 4MAX Lite. Still indestructible.
Thank you Mr. Anderson. You are erudite. I appreciate that you know your business. Although an unapologetic plug for your shop's inventory, I appreciate your insight and brevity.
Your quotation sounds like something Bill Moran would have said.
Thanks DCA! I'm Santa Sized, but Fella works just fine.
Brisa Necker or Bobtail might be interesting for you, too. Both available with different handle and sheath materials, and scandi or flat grind.
LOL :D -DCA
@@knifecenter your thoughts about the D2 version of the Buck 119 knife ?
Appreciate all your work for educating people - cheers!
Regarding D2 sharpening, it was Bob Engnath who said so.
I love D2 for a knife blade I have a few , I don't find any difficulty sharpening and I prefer using oil on an Arkansas Stone then stopping on leather with diamond paste . I liked hearing advise of 20 degree angle because that's what I use .
Thanks for this review and info share .
I’ve found that D2 prefers a toothier edge. I don’t put those polished extra finely finished edges on D2
*Yes it is!*
Speaking from experience. D2, A2, and literally every steel classed as a Tool Steel is a nightmare to resharpen once it goes dull. Folks love to talk about how amazingly long such steels stay sharp. True! But the nature of Tool Steels is why they stay sharp for such a long time. The are super hard. That's their nature. So, when they do get dull, good luck sharpening them! You'd have an easier time challenging a Sherman tank while armed with a toothpick! As much as I love my two custom Bob Dozier hunting knives I bought in the 1990s, those will continue to be the ONLY D2 bladed knives in my collection. And, sadly, they don't get used. (This was back when D2 was a premium and expensive steel.)
D2 has been my favorite steel to use. I start with 80grit then 100grit and if it needs it 220. I use aluminum oxcide wet stones and get a very polished edge and you can shave very comfortable with it.
Hey David, I asked this question last year at this time, and you wanted some more specifics, but forgot to get back to me. Totally understandable. You guys have made one hell of a channel. Frankly...I don't know how you guys do it all, but it brings me A LOT of joy. Anyway...I have an annual anniversary I wish to commemorate with an engraving. I am thinking fixed blade, but that isn't written in steel (couldn't help myself) I would like it to be an EDC. Not opposed to a pocket carry fixed blade, which I know you are partial to. Leaning toward perhaps traditional/modern traditional. Handle styling and fit and finish over blade steel type, with with a primary bevel that is ground for cutting efficiency. Something maybe a bit off the beaten path, but again...it really just comes down this. I respect your opinion, and I would like to know what you might by for yourself in my situation. No wonder you wanted more info huh? I'd love it to cost under 150, but 200 max. Keep up the great work DCA, Seth V, and Reverse Tanto Thomas.
I have several D2, CPM D2, fixed and folding knives with various grinds, and never had any issues sharpening any of them.
How do u sharpen them ? Stone or
“He said his name was Tim “. Pure gold fellas! Great show once again, thank you.
I’ve been carrying Cuda Max D2 pocket knifes by Darell Ralph and Camillus knifes for 20 years. I own 4 of them because I love the size and how well they are constructed. The D2 is hard to sharpen but I use two ceramic rods and they seem to work. But D2 does hold an edge longer than most other steel.
For food prep in that same size and shape but with more depth for knuckle clearance, BGM Knives' CKK (compact kitchen knife). They're custom made so more expensive but worth it. Young John Miller (22) very talented does beautiful work and is a pleasure to deal with.
I like D2, it seems to like a "toothy" edge best, but my Knives of Alaska Camp knife and capers hold up very well with a course ceramic filament bulb from an old metal halide high intensity flood light as a touch up... I am kind of a hillbilly steel nerd of sorts and have a variety of fixed blade steels in my "collection", like S30v, S35, m390, and a few other random numbered spring steel types, but my most durable and toughest edge is on a winkler belt knife in his 80crv2, nothing else i have used is even close to that knifes ability to take and keep it's edge.
All that ramblin out of the way, to my way of thinkin the heat treat is the secret to the steel, and the right heat can make a truck leaf spring a sword.
I had issues trying to hone my SOG Flash AT with a D2 blade. But I took a hint from Chef Jacques Pepin and used the unglazed ceramic "rim" on the back of a china plate. That did the job very nicely! Yes, you can hone a knife with the back of a china plate! Maybe you could demo that in an upcoming video?
Same with the bottom of a coffee mug. Also, if you roll down your car window you can use the top edge of the glass to hone an edge.
I use a coffee cup.
I can totally relate. It seems like our son was constantly sick when he started daycare.
I’ve never had a problem sharpening D2. Granted, I use a Ken Onion Worksharp or diamond whetstones. It never gets hair popping sharp, but it does take a clean working edge. Works best with a convex edge to give it some support and prevent that chipping you get with an aggressive edge.
The few D2 knives I have (I’m sure rebranded but they’re MAC tools) don’t have any issue sharpening up, it’s a little more work but they get sharp and hold it.
I EDC a Rat 2 D2 and use it a lot in my gardening job . At first I was annoyed at it for not wanting to touch up like I was used to with other steels , but then I found out that on the spyderco medium ceramic with a bit more pressure than usual , and then some stropping will quite quickly give it a very useful edge for what I use it for. And it will shave off arm hairs, but I wouldn’t want to shave my face with it 😆 tooooothy ...
I sharpen my d2 folders on the dmt or my sharpal diamond stones and they’re fine. I stop at medium grit and then strop on leather and they’re good to go. Good working blades
With standard D2 heat treatment and manufacturing matter quite a bit so I've never been a fan of it, especially on cheaper knives(Bob Dozier does great stuff with D2). Cpm D2 and psf 27 are a nice upgrade since the Carbides are smaller and more uniform increasing edge stability, toughness and a finer grain resulting in a finer edge. Russian X12 is pretty nice too(quite similar but a few small differences in composition) and they do a great job with heat treatment.
On a $40-$70 knife I'll take 14c28n or Nitro-v any day over D2.
You know a reputable distributor for 14c28n? Else wise than sandvik directly. Not AEB-L, real sandvik material?
Preferably cold rolled but not necessary
@@veraxknives0331 have you checked Alpha Knife Supply? They usually have a good selection of steels in many thickness' choices.
@@MFD00MTR33 it's cold rolled AEB-L at AKS. From Buderus usually. Not 14c28n. Sad face. Also Chuck banned me because he thought I was trying to get them into trouble and.. I was just getting information from John Shiesley.. I never intended to cause an issue legally. not that I let that stop me from getting stuff. Just annoying.
And yes I'm aware how similar the elementary composition is. Not asking for that.
Hm, I had my first D2 steel just a few months ago. It came shaving sharp and I kept the edge razor sharp with the smoother side of my two-sided ceramic sharpener to go. Gotta say I had no trouble like that. It is also a neck knife, and I wore it pretty much constantly through the summer and the heatwaves. And even with the salty and moist environment I had not even a hint of even the faintest rust appearing. Love it! 🥰
And I especially love it because I am more on the budget side of things. 😅
I wear it with a ball-chain, but I also got an Ulti Clip and a karabiner on it, for maximum wearing-flexibility. 😅
I LOVE my Kershaw JYD 2 flipper. It has a 13c26 spine and blade body. The edge is CPM-D2 edge. It took a while but I got it shaving sharp and it rarely needs to be touched up
I, too, noticed that my SPEW didn't have a sharpening choyle. Glad someone thought to ask. As far as sharpening D2... I use automotive sandpaper that's designed for tool steel. I'm not a knife sharpening expert, however, all my knives are hair-popping sharp, now. I have 2 D2 blades, 1 RPM 90, Aus8 on the rest. Then my Mora. The videos I watched the guy used the automotive sandpaper like a strop. The 3000 grit is where you get your mirror edge.
Tim Olsen - There are a couple of makers I suggest you check out: Boker, L.T. Wright, Bark River, Anza, and Kellam knives. All make either horn, stag, or wood handles that would be a great Sgian Dubh. Look specifically at: Boker Arbolito Stag Hunter, Boker Knives Cub, Boker Knives AK1, L.T. Wright Patriot and Great Plainsman, Boker Arbolito Relincho Cuerno de Ciervo, and the Kellam Knives Finnish Falcon or Wolverine. For a budget option, consider the Real Steel Knives Bushcraft Plus, it has a 14C28N blade (one of my favorite steels) with golden ebony handles and a leather sheath.
I'll take another stab at the elegant outdoor stainless fixed blade to food prep with: I don't know it was recently discontinued, but if you can find it, the Lucas Burnley Boker plus fixed blade kwaiken has worked well for me as a decent outdoors and as a solid paring knife around camp.
I just picked up a crjb centros with d2 steel and it's been good so far the edge retention is been really well
First time i heard the phrase was on spyderco forums talking about s110v. When i finally tried the steel, the phrase definitely matched my experience 😅
Good thing is, learning how to use microbevels on my edges solved the issue 😁 (for the most part)
I've always liked D2 because it holds a edge so well but I agree it's harder to get super sharp but when you do it holds up
I have a question about stropping compounds. Are the colors universal as far as the grit ratings are concerned? I just bought some from your site, and would like to know what colors are for what level, or phase of sharpening/stropping. Thanks for all of the great content!
Hey DCA, for the gent in the Kilt, I would probably recommend the Lionsteel B35 or M1. He may need to go custom on the sheaths, but either knife is a nice size and can do a lot of EDC.
In my personal experience, I’ve never had issues with putting a sharp edge on D2. Whether it’s my QSP Penguin, Kershaw - Emerson CQC-4KXL, PF Beluga, (K110) but still essentially D2, etc. sharpening with diamond stones and maybe laying the angle back a bit never hurts. Sharpening basics and fundamentals are the same across the board regardless of the steel you’re sharpening.
hey DCA me and my 12 yr old son both got mora companion knives , and although they have been great knives, we would like to upgrade. a usual camp trip will include processing wood for fires, making tent stakes, cutting ropes/cord, processing bark and food prep, we also find the moras pretty easy to sharpen and maintain. could you reccomend a fixed blade knife in the 50-75 dollar range please.
Cold Steel made a Sgian Dubh in the past. (The Culloden? ) I used it as a boot knife for years in the Service.
I have a parrot and penguin by Q.S.P. I sharpen my parrot (which it and my SAK Spartan are my daily EDC) By hand and can get it scary sharp.I love D2 myself and feel it's pretty close to VG 10.🦉
I have an Artisan small Archeo with a D2 blade. On one side of the edge I can slide my thumb nail down towards the edge and it catches in a groove or fold over that I cannot sharpen out. I'm using a Spyderco tri edge sharpener. It's driving me crazy because I really like this knife. Do I have to grind the whole edge down and start over sharpening it? Thanks for reading this long question if you do.
I would help you further your contradiction about the Silax! I find it to be an excellent portable food prep knife as well, which I bring with me when going OUTDOORS! Whether it’s a casual picnic, camp kitchen, or a romantic dinner date with a Sasquatch, it’s all OUTDOORS! So there, an outdoors knife! 😆
I use my blades 10-20 times a day. Work and home. Every evening I re-hone the edge and oil with gun oil. Doesn't take long and is easy as they aren't dull. Want all my edc's razor sharp the same every day. An old ritual that's quick, fairly easy for keeping up the edge where there is never a dull moment...thank you, I am out!
For a sgian dubh I recommend the Bark River Ansgar if you can find it. Maybe a bit long but I thought there was a shorter one as well.
14:36 CRKT M16-03BS 😅 Holds up well! Good bang for buck and very easy to maintain. 🙂
And it also has one of the very rare, actually good sharpening choils, that does not cause any problems while cutting from way back of the edge. 🤫
The extra second life D2 got was when Crucible did CPM D2 which made the carbides smaller and allowed for a finer edge and better edge stability over ingot D2 while still having a similar toughness and edge retention.
Also for adding that sharpening choil, I'd advise round chainsaw rat tail files. Less risk of overheating like a rotary for the bulk cutting material, then use a fine grit flap or barrel end on a rotary at a lower speed to achieve the fine grit smooth finish. Just keep cool water flowing over it slowly (keeping the electric part of your tool out of the water, of course) and it'll get you a nice polish without compromising things.
My QSP Penguin in D2 is hair popping sharp, not hair whittling sharp but I haven't really tried. I noticed that it got the best bitey edge when I don't go over 800 or 1200 grit. I personally prefer 600/1200 or 800/1200 dual grit edge on my D2. I sharpened it at 17 or 20 degree per side. The most important part is feeling the bur, for me the side of my fingers tend to feel the bur better than the finger pads.
I have several D2 steel knives. I also have a variety of different sharpening systems, including the KME. Several of the sharpeners do fine on D2. I have no problem at all sharpening D2. Just be sure you have a decent sharpener.
From experience like many others have stated the edge you’re able to get on D2 has a lot to do with the heat treat. I have tons of D2 knives and everything I sharpen with or use being identical, some come out super sharp and others not so much. Either way I’m not a fan of D2 and usually only but knives made of D2 for beater knives or because they’re cheap.
If you are looking for a D2 blade you can ultra sharpen. I would recommend the Kershaw Sinkevich Concierge Liner Lock Knife Brown Micarta (3.25" SW D2) 4020MCB and also in Kershaw Sinkevich Concierge Liner Lock Knife Green Micarta (3.25" Black SW) 4020MCG
they are a hollow ground blade.
My outdoor "kitchen" knife is my BK62 Becker Ka-bar Kephart knife.
Would love to know your opinion on pull through knife sharpeners, i used my 440 stainless knife at work cutting turf and by the end of the day it was super blunt im thinking they will be the most efficient way to sharpen it than wasting my good stones?
Is the Cold Steel Air Lite just an overgrown grandchild of the Gerber LST, my first EDC?
Emerson makes a great traditional sgian dubh with modern steel, my wife plays in a pipe and drum band and loves hers.
The first time I came across the D2 quote was from a certain David C Andersen back in the TTAK days. I still think about that as I sharpen my D2 blades (often!)
Hey there Stuart! At least I'm consistent lol -DCA
Hey DCA, and Thomas too! Sorry about your little disease vector! 😸 Hope you and her stay safe!
I recently began letting my indoor cat take little excursions into the yard, and I've been using a couple Cold Steel machetes as cat defense tools. Poking around in potential snake holes, clearing some brush, light chopping, that sorta thing. They're perfectly serviceable of course, but because I have Knife Guy Brain Disease, I've been thinking about upgrading. Having trouble picking one, though. Preferably around or under $100, but I'm flexible.
I'd like it to come with a pretty nice comfortable handle out of the box, maybe micarta, but I know that could raise the budget. I think I'd also like it to be a bit longer, maybe 18 inches? You know, to really get some distance from those terrifying garter snakes. I don't love the black coating on the ones I have, but I've seen that on many from other brands as well, like the lovely Condor Golok. How important is it to have that coating if I'm prepared to oil carbon steel after use?
TL;DR Nice machete around $100 for yard work and critter menacing. C'mon, you know you want to put a couple nice big fixed blades on that table. Thanks!
I got some cryo d2 blades you can shave molecules with! The D2 is tempered correctly it can be great steel!
The condor primitive bush dagger might work for a Sgiun-Dubh
The sheath isn’t right but it’s pretty and I bet some DIY leather work could make a sheath with a tab ( similar to Matt Graham’s other desighns) that would nestle in a sock quite slim
I was also looking towards Condor for a solution. What stuck out to me was their Cavelore. And for something more modern, SOG Pentagon FX. Though neither are lightweight. While the SOG doesn't have a leather sheath, it seems ready to fill the role of modern Sgiun-Dubh. But I am not Scottish, so WTF do I know?
Earliest I can find that quote is by a guy names "Will" who goes by "Penguin" on 24hourcampfire:
===
I carry Queen knives exclusively.
Pocket: 1095 canoe in crimson bone
Hunting: 1095 mountain man trapper in red bone
Processing: D2 trapper with red stag scales
D2 takes a lousy edge and holds it forever which makes it perfect for processing the meat. But for a sharp edge nothing beats the old timers steel: 1095.
Will
I use worksharp Ken onion now but I use to hone by stone it will take a hair popping edge but it takes alot longer than say 1095 but once I get an edge I like it only takes a few strokes on a ceramic once in a blue moon never have to actually profile it again
I remember hearing that phrase by either Matt Martin or Jim Stewart on the Behind the Blade podcast several years ago now; D2 takes a bad edge and holds it forever. I work in an extremely humid environment so I stick to stainless options myself.
I also only have one titanium frame lock flipper myself lol it's not the hinderer Jurassic, though I've seen them in stock all around lately and may pull the trigger one one of those or a firetac. Mine is the new chaves ultramar street liberation in full TI with a drop point that just recently came out. I've wanted a street liberation since reate first started making them like 3 or so years ago and I also want a redencion but couldn't find any for less than 500 so when I seen these were dropping a couple weeks ago I had to order one as soon as they dropped and I freaking love the knife. If I had any complaints about it, the one complaint would be the corners on the back of the knife are a little sharp when flipping the knife. You don't notice when using, only when flipping and they are that sharp, but could definitely be rounded a little more.
Thats cause everyone is tying to get rid of their Hinderer's and no one wants to buy them after that BS lawsuit of his against that kid who exposed him out on his bad heat treat.
Love how to go into detail… but I am left handed and a fixed blade fanatic as well. So would like a fixed blade that’s able to be on left side. I had the Winkler belt knife but someone stole it while I was working “wilderness surveyor “. Any other options that are good in similar or less price range? Thanks!
I don't have "Thick Fur" as suggested. I have a silky but sturdy mat of hair much like you Hoomuns have on your heads, only my body hair is a little more dense and about 3" long in most spots. Fun Fact, I do shed! As I travel from my Summer home in the Upper regions of the Pacific Northwest, British Columbia and Alaska to my Winter residence of Guaymas Mexico I shed my heavier "Woods" coat for a much lighter sandy coloured hair, I guess to match the Sonoran desert colour of my hacienda.
A D2 working edge is all you need, no need to strop at .1 micron. Remember knives are tools and D2 is a great tool steel. Leave the obsession to want to cut the fabric of time.
That last sentence made me laugh. Well said. I often find myself getting too worked up over getting a “perfect” edge when all I really need is a sharp knife.
I'd like to know why most makers make so few knives that are thin cutters. Benchmade has the Bugout with 0.100"/2.5mm, Spydecro did great with Chaparral at 0.080"/2mm and there's a few other knives out there. But for a lot of makers 0.125"/3.2mm is considered thin and a lot of knives are in the 0.156"/4mm to 0.200"/5mm and even thicker. The difference in cutting cardboard with a 2mm thin knife and a 5mm is huge, especially if one is ground thin and the other has a "utility, heavy duty" edge. To me knives are made for cutting, if you want to pry use a pry bar.
Hey DCA, I'm looking to replace my old Smith & Wesson Oasis SW421. I want it to be a similar size, both in blade length and overall length. I mainly use it at the warehouse opening boxes, cutting straps, etc. Something I won't have to baby or sharpen frequently below 100 dollars. Thank you!
Plenty of options, first that comes to mind is the CRKT M16, newer ones with the frame lock and 12C27 steel should do nicely kcoti.com/3HBWZAg
Ontario Rat1 or Rat2 might also make some good hard use folders. They're reasonably tough and cheap to replace.
I have very specific wants in my work edc it needs to be light it needs a pocket clip it needs to be tip down carry and it needs to have some sort of hole in the blade . I want to be able to reach in my pocket with thumb and for finger pull it out and wrist flick the handle down for deployment . Must be two hundred dollars or less. I will be useing this knife daily at work until it dulls to the point of not working this takes a while I will then tell my wife it doesn't work thereby justifying another purchase. Thank you dca and team.
Ah hah! The only Ti Frame-lock Folder in your personal collection is revealed :-)
I have a Half-Track myself, love the heft of it, and the action. Really have gone all in on 'making my own' though maybe not in ways that Rick would approve of -- been learning to anodize titanium myself and have swapped nearly every screw.
Tim Olsen: although it might be totally sacrilegious, perhaps a Scandinavian knife would work as your sgian dubh. The Helle Trofe looks really nice.
Being of Nordic and Scottish decent, a small puukko with a more decorative handle would make a great sgian dubh. Helle is a great option. I’m also a fan of the Lt Wright pronghorn.
Dude that snody is sweet for the price. Handle is alittle short but blade is very sharp and sheath is Awsome for edc. One of the best sheaths going. I’m not a big kabar fan but this one is nice.
What are some good “bird and trout” small fixed blades that would great pulling double duty as an EDC? Preferably in a powdered steel. Thanks DCA.
DCA… I need advice on my next knife purchase, I went through my gas station phase and through my ganzo phase! My last 3 purchases has been a pmp spartan, kizer roach, and lastly a AD 20.5! Where should I go next to continue to climb the knife ladder?
PS… what would a man have to do to “get” his hands on one of your personal knives? Say if he wanted to donate it for one of the prizes for supporting knife rights during the 24 hour knife channel marathon this year? 😉
Hey, DCA, I'm looking for a knife for my dad sub $300. He works outside and often breaks tips on knives, and if he doesn't break them, he rounds them off when sharpening. He wants something he can one-hand open and close and preferably USA-made. His favorite knife years ago was the Kershaw Leek, so something in that size but less likely to break.
Thanks for the help.
Ps thought about a tanto to love the sharpening issue.
You can hand sharp D2 to shaving sharp it just takes time and if you have low quality tools it takes even longer time so some good tools and your golden, a good tip is to start on like a 220stone and go from there as it will cut a bit faster in the tough steel.
I have a cheap Skandi D2 and I can easily field sharpen it with a cheap v-angle pocket whetstone. Sure, it's not sharp like a razor, but it easily cuts everything I need it to and I can resharpene it in 30 seconds. I think for 90% of all use cases it's perfectly fine and for the other 10 you probably don't want an outdoor knife anyways
Lock types. I have a CRKT Bev-Edge frame lock as my EDC and just got a Buck Ranger 112 back lock. Folders will never be as secure as fixed blades, what it your opinion comes close?
I’ve got a few Boker Kalsh autos and a KC exclusive AD 20.5 in D2 (K110). I’ve also got a few of the cheap Ganzo knives in D2. D2 is harder to sharpen than many other steels. From everything I’ve read on D2. It seems like it’s harder to heat treat properly in a production environment. I follow several RUclipsrs that do knife testing and D2 usually falls short on the heat treatment no matter who made it.
The Boker Barlow BFF is also a good Sgian-Dubh alternative.
So a lousy edge that lasts is exactly what it's designed for. Punching dies, shredding blades and so on. Good thing to remember a number of knife steels have been adapted to, not designed for.
Question: Fender or Gibson? Relevance being which cuts through a mix better? 🤔 *edit: typo.
No matter which axe you choose, it should have no problems cutting through your mixer ;) -DCA
Number one thing with d2 is Diamond or CBN stones only so you are cutting the carbides as well as the surrounding steel matrix. Number two as with any steel holding your angle consistent from side to side ... Number 3 do not allow a large burr to be pulled up, keep the burr fine as all D2 even well heat treated D2 likes to hold on to its burr and allowing a large burr to be pulled up and flipped will not break off cleanly when you deburr..
So long as the d2 is not super soft and it's in the 59-61 range and you do your job D2 gets super sticky sharp, hair whittling sticky sharp is no problem.
Another thing and this goes for any steel but especially for D2 and other milder tool steels do not over strop it, if it's not sharp off the stones your not gonna get it sharp with a strop.. come off your diamond stones and make a pass or two per side on some nice firm leather with some polydiamond emulsion in a grit that suits the finishing stone and that's it it's ready to go. Over stropping smooths out the cutting surfaces of the carbides and slicks off the micro serrations quickly.
I have sharpened custom HT d2 and it was a world class blade steel and felt absolutely amazing on the stones took an amazing edge and edge retention is excellent. Poorly done D2 is difficult to pull up a nice fine burr and it's very difficult to deburr as the burr just flops from side to side and doesn't want to break off exposing a clean apex on soft D2 knowing how to properly do a micro bevel is your best friend..
Until recently I've managed to get my D2 penguin very sharp but not shaving sharp. So last time I did a sharpening session I spent more time stropping and honing. Much better results.
On the sgian dhu " black or dark blade" front as a Scot myself I've recently made a brisa necker and scara. They make lovely sheaths but I made one with a strong clip so I can pocket carry a fixed blade or slot it down my work boots in a modern sgian dhu alternative.
A sgian dubh is an EDC knife. It was literally designed for that use. Next point, the sgian dubh sheath is held in place by the hose and flashes.
I ran my sog Trident D2 through a work sharp sharpener 3 times. It got better but its not there yet. Its no as good my cold steel voyager out the box. Probably 3-5 more times tonight. Should be good
I’d say that how dull are you letting your knives get ? My D2 Sog Terminus xR came with a fine edge, I use a kitchen honing steel after every couple uses. Pops back up. The Spyderco Sharpmaker makes an appearance roughly quarterly throughout the year. More if necessary. Personally I had a harder time resharpening my BM grip h20 with x15-TN steel. Summed up. Dont. Let. You. Knives. Get. Dull. And lastly not all if need a mirror skin blistering razor edge. A sharp working edge is where I keep my knives and they are not going to chip or gouge.
True.
My D2 knives all came sharp AF.
Mostly I strop them regularly.
But I never had a problem sharpening D2 to razor-sharp.
D2 is definitely hard for (at least) me to sharpen. Give my 154cm or 14c28n all day, over D2. I even use a fixed angle sharpening system and still takes FOREVER
Get diamond stones for your system if you don't already have them.
If you can't freehand to a shaving sharp edge move to a fixed angle system. Use bonded diamond stones not plates.
I use the Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker
what are some of your favorite big slicey knives , think similar to pmp spartan or civivi mastodon
DCA! I need your help!
I’ve been looking for a comprehensive folding knife maintenance video. Something that covers cleaning, lubricating, sharpening and storage. Please maybe refer me to a book or some kind of information would be awesome!
Stay sharp!
Along with a Buck 110 I have always had a MERCADOR K-55 somewhere handy. Looking up the MERCADOR on the net I was surprised to find it has a long history to it. Do you know of this?
What are some good knives with glass breakers?
Hello DCA and Thomas, could you explain why Titanium isn't used for blades, just scales or parts? Thanks!
Same reason aluminum, brass, micarta and G10 are only used on handle scales and not blades.
@@arrowheadguys7637 i don't think you're qualified to answer this, as none of the materials you cited are as hard as Titanium. Please read the comment again, as i asked DCA, not you.
@@carloshenriquealvesdossant8855 My 20+ years of experience in engineering specializing in design and materials would differ with your opinion of my qualifications. However none of that is necessary to know that titanium is not a good material for a knife blade because it will not retain an edge and does not have the toughness to avoid chipping or breaking under use.
If you ever see titanium on an edge, I think it would need to be "carbidized" so that it would have some wear resistance.
@@arrowheadguys7637 i don't doubt your experience, you could gave this answer instead your earlier smart @ss comment. 20+years of experience with metal work, not so much in answering questions NOT MADE FOR YOU. have a nice day.