When rebuilding these carbs it’s important to keep jet and needles with each carb. Jetting and needle clip position are different between front and back banks. Years ago I was a Honda dealership service manager, a new motorcycle tech rebuilt some V65 carbs. When he reassembled and reinstalled them, idled fine, but would stutter and stumble off idle. Tried several times same results. He had soaked all jets together and reinstalled them in the wrong carbs. Once we got all jets and needles back where they belonged, it ran perfectly.
Thanks for this video. Lots of good tips here that are not easily understood in the shop manual. I've done countless carb rebuilds but usually on single cylinder or inline 4. I just picked up an '86 Magna and after spending 10 minutes trying to locate 2/4 spark plugs, I then knew that working on a V engine is going to be a lot more involved than the more simple bikes I've wrenched on in the past. (Currently have an '85 Nighthawk and a '17 KLR650 that normally get all my attention). Thanks again for a very specific video like this. It'll help me and many more to come in the future! 🤘🏻
I just got an ‘86 Magna V65. Has been riding fine but today on the freeway I felt it chug and then quit on me. I made it to work but on the ride back it quit about 20 times but I was able to barely get it running and make it home. Now that I’m home I notice there’s a leak from the petcock even in the off position I see gas dripping slowly. Any tips on where to start with my problem? Now it seems to barely want to start.. thinking about draining the gas, checking the fuel lines then carbs?
Good deal! That is the goal with this series. For getting those carbs back on make sure you check out this link for softening up the boots v4musclebike.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13477. In fact, the V4 site is a great for learning basically all there is to know about these V4's. I got my wintergreen oil from here www.ebay.com/itm/Humco-Wintergreen-Oil-Methyl-Salicylate-2oz-External-Pain-Reliever-glass-/252530453796?hash=item3acbfced24. Pain in the ass to source in the US for some reason. I've heard you can also find it labeled for horses and might be able to get it at a tractor supply or Ag store.
Mine lived outside near the NC coast for almost a decade. The entire exhaust system was a bit on the rough side. But it's since moved along to someone else into the interior of the state.
The benefit of having new carb boots. It pops out super easy when you have new boots. Old ones? It's like trying to pull Excalibur out of the stone. Not fun at all.
Only if you cannot get them out by your own hands. If it's got old boots, they are very hard to get out. You can put a pry bar between head and the body of the carb. But you want to pry on the bottom side of the plenum as it has the largest amount of cast area. The top is very thin walled. Ideally you'd pry between the head and the piece that leads into the boot just to get things moving. There's just not much space to move anything around in that valley.
I have a 1983 honda magna v45 750cc. I was told that I would have to remove the radiator to get the carbs out, but now I wonder if it would come out the same as you show here.
If memory serves, the only way I ever got it back in was to ensure the isolator boots were off the carb and the radiator hanging by just the one bolt. And even then it was a lot of moving it a bit, rearranging, moving a bit more. And then cutting yourself on the frame/carb/whatever piece of metal happened to feel particularly hungry that day. It was never a fun process.
@@MatthewWilliamsCFDEV I did eventually get it back in. But I had to remove the radiator like you said. The most difficult part for me was hooking the throttle cables back up.
@@flatbill2 I tried to repair a snapped throttle cable on the side of I40 on the way to the mountains of TN once. It was not successful. In the end I had two different throttle cables snap on me, but it's not fun or easy to get into for sure.
@@ryangraham1751 It's the exhaust blowby. It goes from that nipple on the carb into body of the head. It's more an EPA thing and could bypass to open air if you really wanted. You'd just need to make sure the nipple on the head was sealed up.
If you have the back wheel off it's much easier to get to. Right above the swing arm at the bottom of the aux tank is a 10 or 8 mm bolt. You can drain that secondary tank from there. It's a pain to get at and required my longest extension stacked on other extensions while laying on the floor looking upwards at the bottom of the bike.
Oh,Jesus. Sounds like fun. I took the front tank off, but I guess I'll drain the secondary. But if I take the supply hose off the carbs, will the tank drain from there? What happens if I don't drain secondary? Just wondering. Though I would really like to see the condition of the fuel, so I will probably drain it anyway. Thanks a lot for responding. It helps a lot. Love Clymer manuals, but they fall short. Owe you one, buddy.
You'll get a little bit draining out when you pull the carbs, but gravity is your friend here. The hose loops up over above the head and then connects up to the fuel pump. Which then connects to the fuel filter. Which finally connects up to the petcock in the aux tank. At worst it'll only drain what's between the pump and carb in that case. You could just pull the line off the petcock and drain out 95% of the fuel that way, however, if the goal is to clean things up you really need to pull the aux tank out and drain it properly. I cleaned both tanks several times while the aux was on the bike... but the amount of rust that hides in that thing is unreal. I didn't stop getting rust flakes in the carb until I really spent the time to clean both tanks properly, and even then had to seal the main tank as it would still rust up when you used up the fuel and it sat for a few days.
Ok. Got me convinced. Will drain and clean both tanks. I suspected that would be the case, but I was anxious to get riding again. Yours is the better part of wisdom. I want to do it right. Thanks again. Will be on it tomorrow. Leo
Yeah, I learned that lesson the hard way. I had bought the bike with the intention of riding it into the NC mountains 9 months later. And I just wanted it to WORK... like, right after I bought it before the almost kinda winter of NC happened ;). I did manage to get skilled enough pulling everything out of the carb area in under 30 minutes though, so... I guess that's a good skill to have? Maybe?
If the boots are old, heating them up ahead of time can help. Restoring them using oil of wintergreen and rubbing alcohol can help. Using a little bit of Sil glyde helped. But the biggest help was replacing the worn out boots from partzilla, or RonAyers was the best fix. And just a smidge of silicone on them to help keep them from getting stuck on the metal bits when trying to get the rack into place.
Ugh dude I did everything you did, and more. Removed all the clamps on the boots, tank is off completely, air box out, cables all undone and i still cant get the damn things to come out! Been sitting 15 years :(
You could maybe try a little heat. EG, hair dryer or heat gun. And then use a flat head pry bar/screw driver and a block to leverage off of and lift it just a bit at a time at different angles around the boot.
@@MatthewWilliamsCFDEV Yup I got it out with a little heat but looking down in the head theres all kinds of crap in there. This is the first vehicle I've seriously wrenched on and I think I'm royally boned with all the stuff that is probably down in the rotating assembly
That's the top portion of the plenum. The air box screws into it, and in theory, should be mostly sealed to prevent un-metered air from entering the intake. The top portion is plastic and the bottom is aluminum.
Update Went to store, bought longer screwdriver Problem solved all of my screw heads were just about stripped. I had a screwdriver that fit them decent enough. Put vice grips on the screwdriver handle and they all came off no problem. JIS screwdriver set will be on its way ASAP
I was hoping it'd take off as the newest fashion trend! Alternately, the one on the right was a smart watch/fitness tracker that had to be removed constantly for recharging. That old g-shock on the left just keeps ticking along with a battery change once every few years.
When rebuilding these carbs it’s important to keep jet and needles with each carb.
Jetting and needle clip position are different between front and back banks.
Years ago I was a Honda dealership service manager, a new motorcycle tech rebuilt some V65 carbs. When he reassembled and reinstalled them, idled fine, but would stutter and stumble off idle. Tried several times same results. He had soaked all jets together and reinstalled them in the wrong carbs. Once we got all jets and needles back where they belonged, it ran perfectly.
Thanks for this video. Lots of good tips here that are not easily understood in the shop manual. I've done countless carb rebuilds but usually on single cylinder or inline 4. I just picked up an '86 Magna and after spending 10 minutes trying to locate 2/4 spark plugs, I then knew that working on a V engine is going to be a lot more involved than the more simple bikes I've wrenched on in the past. (Currently have an '85 Nighthawk and a '17 KLR650 that normally get all my attention).
Thanks again for a very specific video like this. It'll help me and many more to come in the future! 🤘🏻
Thanks! The V4 from Honda will always hold a special place for me. I just wish they had kept with the power cruiser as the years rolled by.
I just got an ‘86 Magna V65. Has been riding fine but today on the freeway I felt it chug and then quit on me. I made it to work but on the ride back it quit about 20 times but I was able to barely get it running and make it home. Now that I’m home I notice there’s a leak from the petcock even in the off position I see gas dripping slowly. Any tips on where to start with my problem? Now it seems to barely want to start.. thinking about draining the gas, checking the fuel lines then carbs?
Dude, this helped so much, I just picked up and 84 sabre for a project build, thanks for making it look easy.
Good deal! That is the goal with this series. For getting those carbs back on make sure you check out this link for softening up the boots v4musclebike.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13477. In fact, the V4 site is a great for learning basically all there is to know about these V4's. I got my wintergreen oil from here www.ebay.com/itm/Humco-Wintergreen-Oil-Methyl-Salicylate-2oz-External-Pain-Reliever-glass-/252530453796?hash=item3acbfced24. Pain in the ass to source in the US for some reason. I've heard you can also find it labeled for horses and might be able to get it at a tractor supply or Ag store.
First time pulling the tank up with the new fairings and I learned that lesson. Thanks for the video!
F. I feel your pain, my fairing is cracked from a previous owner. rippp
Wish me luck. My boots are old and stubborn.
Awesome tutorial and hope helps someone too down the road ^^
I need to get some better lighting.
man yours is in such good shape. rofl mine has corrosion everywhere, trying to get it running. gonna need a lot of cosmetic work
Mine lived outside near the NC coast for almost a decade. The entire exhaust system was a bit on the rough side. But it's since moved along to someone else into the interior of the state.
You made that look easy and painless....
The benefit of having new carb boots. It pops out super easy when you have new boots. Old ones? It's like trying to pull Excalibur out of the stone. Not fun at all.
You mention using used cables (replaced previously), were new cables not available?
Have been dealing with leaking carbs for a year. Have pulled this at minimum of 6 times! It does NOT get any easier or fun to do...
What kind of problems we're you having?
Is the "here and here" for the pry bar to disconnect from boots at the float bowls?
Only if you cannot get them out by your own hands. If it's got old boots, they are very hard to get out. You can put a pry bar between head and the body of the carb. But you want to pry on the bottom side of the plenum as it has the largest amount of cast area. The top is very thin walled. Ideally you'd pry between the head and the piece that leads into the boot just to get things moving. There's just not much space to move anything around in that valley.
You might point the camera at what you are talking about.
I have a 1983 honda magna v45 750cc. I was told that I would have to remove the radiator to get the carbs out, but now I wonder if it would come out the same as you show here.
Spent +2 hours trying to get the carbs out of my v45, definitely think ill have to remove the radiator to fit it out
I laughed a bit at the fuel line not being totally drained ;)
I'm starting to think I should use it as cologne at this point. I pretty much bath in it ever time I work on something with this bike.
Sex Panther, 60% of the Time, It Works Every Time
Noted for future reference.
I got it out but I can't seem to get it back in. Your frame looks like it's welded a little bit wider than mine.
If memory serves, the only way I ever got it back in was to ensure the isolator boots were off the carb and the radiator hanging by just the one bolt. And even then it was a lot of moving it a bit, rearranging, moving a bit more. And then cutting yourself on the frame/carb/whatever piece of metal happened to feel particularly hungry that day. It was never a fun process.
@@MatthewWilliamsCFDEV I did eventually get it back in. But I had to remove the radiator like you said. The most difficult part for me was hooking the throttle cables back up.
@@flatbill2 I tried to repair a snapped throttle cable on the side of I40 on the way to the mountains of TN once. It was not successful. In the end I had two different throttle cables snap on me, but it's not fun or easy to get into for sure.
You should probably title the video and add tags for the bike so people searching youtube for that bike will find it easier.
It's done.
Matthew Williams yay!!
Where does the second hose you pulled off come from? Having troubles getting mine back together
The one in center rear of the carbs
@@ryangraham1751 It's the exhaust blowby. It goes from that nipple on the carb into body of the head. It's more an EPA thing and could bypass to open air if you really wanted. You'd just need to make sure the nipple on the head was sealed up.
made quick work of it if ya ask me.. i've been there.
Yeah... you know why it seemed quick? This is likely the 20th time I've had these carbs off this bike. I know how to finesse them now ;).
fugginA
On the plus side maybe I could start a business restoring old V4's?
you're the only one that would ever say that... lol. call it four on the floor XD
It's not for nothing that the moniker is pronounced "off balance" ;)
Clymers said to drain the secondary tank. Is that necessary? If so how do you do it.
If you have the back wheel off it's much easier to get to. Right above the swing arm at the bottom of the aux tank is a 10 or 8 mm bolt. You can drain that secondary tank from there. It's a pain to get at and required my longest extension stacked on other extensions while laying on the floor looking upwards at the bottom of the bike.
Oh,Jesus. Sounds like fun. I took the front tank off, but I guess I'll drain the secondary. But if I take the supply hose off the carbs, will the tank drain from there? What happens if I don't drain secondary? Just wondering. Though I would really like to see the condition of the fuel, so I will probably drain it anyway. Thanks a lot for responding. It helps a lot. Love Clymer manuals, but they fall short. Owe you one, buddy.
You'll get a little bit draining out when you pull the carbs, but gravity is your friend here. The hose loops up over above the head and then connects up to the fuel pump. Which then connects to the fuel filter. Which finally connects up to the petcock in the aux tank. At worst it'll only drain what's between the pump and carb in that case. You could just pull the line off the petcock and drain out 95% of the fuel that way, however, if the goal is to clean things up you really need to pull the aux tank out and drain it properly. I cleaned both tanks several times while the aux was on the bike... but the amount of rust that hides in that thing is unreal. I didn't stop getting rust flakes in the carb until I really spent the time to clean both tanks properly, and even then had to seal the main tank as it would still rust up when you used up the fuel and it sat for a few days.
Ok. Got me convinced. Will drain and clean both tanks. I suspected that would be the case, but I was anxious to get riding again. Yours is the better part of wisdom. I want to do it right. Thanks again. Will be on it tomorrow. Leo
Yeah, I learned that lesson the hard way. I had bought the bike with the intention of riding it into the NC mountains 9 months later. And I just wanted it to WORK... like, right after I bought it before the almost kinda winter of NC happened ;). I did manage to get skilled enough pulling everything out of the carb area in under 30 minutes though, so... I guess that's a good skill to have? Maybe?
any tips on putting it back on?
If the boots are old, heating them up ahead of time can help. Restoring them using oil of wintergreen and rubbing alcohol can help. Using a little bit of Sil glyde helped. But the biggest help was replacing the worn out boots from partzilla, or RonAyers was the best fix. And just a smidge of silicone on them to help keep them from getting stuck on the metal bits when trying to get the rack into place.
U know ?
If u use an old hair drier to heat up old intake boots ?
They come off easer
I wasn't concerned. They only had to come off once as I bought replacements.
@@MatthewWilliamsCFDEV what was the carb you used? OEM?
@@Lv.zx6r It's the stock carbs that came on the bike in '83. I bought a rebuild kit online for the jets and seals and such.
Ugh dude I did everything you did, and more. Removed all the clamps on the boots, tank is off completely, air box out, cables all undone and i still cant get the damn things to come out! Been sitting 15 years :(
You could maybe try a little heat. EG, hair dryer or heat gun. And then use a flat head pry bar/screw driver and a block to leverage off of and lift it just a bit at a time at different angles around the boot.
@@MatthewWilliamsCFDEV Yup I got it out with a little heat but looking down in the head theres all kinds of crap in there. This is the first vehicle I've seriously wrenched on and I think I'm royally boned with all the stuff that is probably down in the rotating assembly
is there a way to get the key code to this bike? I have an '82 magna v45. Kids lost key.
Pull the helmet lock the key code is stamped on it.
Just heat up the boots carefully with a heat gun-hair dryer they come right out,it works!
Now if only I could get it back into the boots
Was gonna say, the coming out isn’t the problem, it’s the going in
what was that box at 5:15 that you were removing?
That's the top portion of the plenum. The air box screws into it, and in theory, should be mostly sealed to prevent un-metered air from entering the intake. The top portion is plastic and the bottom is aluminum.
bro
HOW THE HELL DID YOU GET THE LAST AIRBOX TOP PEICE SCREW OUT
it’s killing me, cause everything else is butter after the fact
At least one was missing. I got lucky enough to have a screwdriver that fit the space. Even worse is they're self tapping
Update
Went to store, bought longer screwdriver
Problem solved
all of my screw heads were just about stripped. I had a screwdriver that fit them decent enough. Put vice grips on the screwdriver handle and they all came off no problem.
JIS screwdriver set will be on its way ASAP
@@psychedelicbdsm7301 yeah, JIS is a necessity with these older bikes.
You need a new camera man. Couldn't see half of what you were doing. On to another web site.
Why are you wearing 2 watches???
I was hoping it'd take off as the newest fashion trend! Alternately, the one on the right was a smart watch/fitness tracker that had to be removed constantly for recharging. That old g-shock on the left just keeps ticking along with a battery change once every few years.
Video too dark!!
Apologies. Very tall ceilings and just the one light in the garage.
horrible video, explains things OK but you really can't see what he is talking about because he doesn't have the camera pointed at where he is working