Your wiring looks great! Much better than factory, but then the factory couldn't afford to pay the time it takes to do that. It really is amazing how the 70's equipment is still going. Thanks for the tip on the writable heat shrink, I'm going to look for that.
Thanks Tony. With respect to tantalums. They tend to be more stable/age better than electrolytics. The big trick with them is to use a voltage double to their anticipated voltage. They do not deal with over-voltage at all...including momentary spikes. But if one is using tantalums with voltage rating of at least double the nominal circuit voltage, I've never had one blow up/short out.
I poked around for printable shrink tube. Found some made for Brother P-touch label makers, and I have one of those. Never knew they had it. Thanks for the tip!
Hey Tony, still loving this series!! Just a suggestion to replace all the fuses as well. Over the use of this amp over time, some of those fuses may have been stressed a little bit at some point. And the connections of the fusible wire into the caps is known to deteriorate over time as well. I've had perfectly good looking fuses, in old equipment, fail after I gave them a mechanical shock just because of the connection within the cap on the end. And if you're getting a little esoteric, there are audio grade fuses available as well.
Those printable heat shrink tubes are great! Brady makes them for their M210 handheld printer. They are great for adding stuff to control panels if you want to keep the professional look.
I appreciate what you do, but with such a strong advanced rebuild process (new main capacitors, improved power supply board), why don't you disassembly each switch and the potentiometer and clean them as it should be done? contact spray treatment works for a very short period of time (I also do audio service)
I'm wondering instead of using the pin vice to widen the small holes if one couldn't use a hypodermic syringe with a small needle and squirt contact cleaner and later Deoxit into the small holes with a narrow gauge needle. The syringe and needles can be purchased through a veterinary supply place or just get some from one's vet.
It's easier to desolder the switches and then clean them (they come apart pretty easy). After cleaning you have to grease them, which you can't use by spraying deoxit, and they will last longer.
@@paulpaulzadeh6172 PE is connected to chassis, and so is the mid point of the 2 power supply rails. You have +70V to ground on one rail and -70V to ground on the other rail. That supplies a push-pull complimentary output stage. Your chassis ground, power supply midpoint, speaker - (negative terminal) and PE are all connected together at the same potential - "ground". I hope that makes sense :)
I’m not crazy about those terminal blocks. My experience with them has them loosening over time. Relatively short time. Even after what seems like tightening them pretty good. Plus it’s another connection, which we all know are weak points.
Your wiring looks great! Much better than factory, but then the factory couldn't afford to pay the time it takes to do that. It really is amazing how the 70's equipment is still going. Thanks for the tip on the writable heat shrink, I'm going to look for that.
Thanks Tony. With respect to tantalums. They tend to be more stable/age better than electrolytics. The big trick with them is to use a voltage double to their anticipated voltage. They do not deal with over-voltage at all...including momentary spikes. But if one is using tantalums with voltage rating of at least double the nominal circuit voltage, I've never had one blow up/short out.
Another awesome video. Thanks for the fun Tony….hope you never run out of projects 😊
I poked around for printable shrink tube. Found some made for Brother P-touch label makers, and I have one of those. Never knew they had it. Thanks for the tip!
Nice neat job! Thanks for what you do!!
Wow….congratulations. Thanks.
Hey Tony, still loving this series!! Just a suggestion to replace all the fuses as well. Over the use of this amp over time, some of those fuses may have been stressed a little bit at some point. And the connections of the fusible wire into the caps is known to deteriorate over time as well. I've had perfectly good looking fuses, in old equipment, fail after I gave them a mechanical shock just because of the connection within the cap on the end. And if you're getting a little esoteric, there are audio grade fuses available as well.
Those printable heat shrink tubes are great! Brady makes them for their M210 handheld printer. They are great for adding stuff to control panels if you want to keep the professional look.
that heatshrink is, indeed, really cool.
Amp looks great.. I'm looking forward to bench test results and see how the new replacement modules perform.
Awesome job, Tony! That indeed looked like a lot of work. That would probably take me weeks to do. 😅
Impressive.
I appreciate what you do, but with such a strong advanced rebuild process (new main capacitors, improved power supply board), why don't you disassembly each switch and the potentiometer and clean them as it should be done? contact spray treatment works for a very short period of time (I also do audio service)
Would you let us know where we can obtain the write-on shrink tubing? Thanks.
I'm wondering instead of using the pin vice to widen the small holes if one couldn't use a hypodermic syringe with a small needle and squirt contact cleaner and later Deoxit into the small holes with a narrow gauge needle. The syringe and needles can be purchased through a veterinary supply place or just get some from one's vet.
It's easier to desolder the switches and then clean them (they come apart pretty easy). After cleaning you have to grease them, which you can't use by spraying deoxit, and they will last longer.
I noticed on this build you didnt use the crimped pins for terminating to the new boards like you did on the 1980?
why the center point of plus and minus capacitor are connected to chassis?! risk for ground loop .
It is a grounded mid-point of a +/- DC power supply. Pretty standard in all amplifiers. Take a look at some schematics, it will make more sense.
@@ElektrikaCo PE connection becomes a problem
@@paulpaulzadeh6172 PE is connected to chassis, and so is the mid point of the 2 power supply rails. You have +70V to ground on one rail and -70V to ground on the other rail. That supplies a push-pull complimentary output stage. Your chassis ground, power supply midpoint, speaker - (negative terminal) and PE are all connected together at the same potential - "ground". I hope that makes sense :)
Nice job! Thanks for the look see.Really like the shrink tubing, used that on industrial equipment, worked on in the past.
Where did the "new" boards come from ?
I’m not crazy about those terminal blocks. My experience with them has them loosening over time. Relatively short time. Even after what seems like tightening them pretty good. Plus it’s another connection, which we all know are weak points.
Do you have time to do a Eico ST-97 FM tuner?
That heat shrink is a great idea. Where can we get it without needing a mortgage? LOL
I got it on eBay a few years back. At the time it wasn't very expensive. Who knows, now....
tony, why are you not using ukl for the orange low leakage elnas any more?
I could have, but I had all of the FG series in stock. They seem to work very well also.
The heat shrink technique is exactly the same as what we used to do as kids in the 70's, Shrinky Dinks. The detail was always better after baking.
I totally forgot about those!
@@xraytonyb You know the old saying, "What's old is new again." 😁
That amp is a pain to work on. My pioneer elite might be worse, never took it apart. It's between 13 to 18 years old