This is a good tip. I wasn’t aware of the valve. I’d suggest you also change your oil to 0w synthetic. I changed mine after my compressor wouldn’t start when it was cold. The old oil was way too thick. Now it starts up without hesitation in cold winter temperatures below 20 degrees F.
Maybe it doesn't matter in the relatively short life of these but there is not 0w compressor oil. I have read many people though just run any type of engine oil though.
I thought about changing the oil to something lighter but a compressor really should have non-detergent oil since there is not filtration. With the additional start valve I have not had any issues with 30wt compressor oil down into the low teens. I also try not to need to work on things when it is cold outside but of course that's when the tires are low too.
@@mazamike We tend to try to fix what we have at the farm and half the time that is how we acquired the equipment in the first place. This one was pretty straightforward and I think the extra valve was under $10.
This double valve fix my problem!! I thought it was the capacitor but, it was just the valve, I try just one and didn’t work, then I tried the tee with two new valves and it worked!! I try it at 30 degrees and it started smooth.
I just googled 1/4 compressor start valve and picked one that looked like what I had. Grainger, Amazon, eBay, likely a local industrial supply house if you have one. It is unclear to me if there are different "settings" or spring strengths or if all the valves are the same.
Release all pressure by keeping the air valve open for initial start. Works
Accidentally got two of these shipped. Put the one on and improved starting /not tripping. I'lll give this a try. Thanks
This is a good tip. I wasn’t aware of the valve. I’d suggest you also change your oil to 0w synthetic. I changed mine after my compressor wouldn’t start when it was cold. The old oil was way too thick. Now it starts up without hesitation in cold winter temperatures below 20 degrees F.
Maybe it doesn't matter in the relatively short life of these but there is not 0w compressor oil. I have read many people though just run any type of engine oil though.
I thought about changing the oil to something lighter but a compressor really should have non-detergent oil since there is not filtration. With the additional start valve I have not had any issues with 30wt compressor oil down into the low teens. I also try not to need to work on things when it is cold outside but of course that's when the tires are low too.
Ready to give mine to the dumps
@@mazamike put a ball valve in it. Let it get up to rpm then close it. Usually only happens that first time when cold
@@mazamike
We tend to try to fix what we have at the farm and half the time that is how we acquired the equipment in the first place. This one was pretty straightforward and I think the extra valve was under $10.
This double valve fix my problem!! I thought it was the capacitor but, it was just the valve, I try just one and didn’t work, then I tried the tee with two new valves and it worked!! I try it at 30 degrees and it started smooth.
I watched your video, so you have a link where I can go buy the same part that you bought; please respond, and thank you for your time
I just googled 1/4 compressor start valve and picked one that looked like what I had. Grainger, Amazon, eBay, likely a local industrial supply house if you have one. It is unclear to me if there are different "settings" or spring strengths or if all the valves are the same.
What size is the valve?
1/4" npt thread