Glad the one thing I am absolutely livid about REL S series subs is mentioned and everyone has the same problem. No markings/tactile feedback on gain, crossover just nothing. Adjusting 2 subs to mimic the other pair of settings is a royal pain. S series are not cheap either, costing several thousands yet the lower priced TX at least have notches you can count unlike the S series.
Dont understand why people complain about this one. I have 1x REL S812 in my system. Gain and crossover both have notches, so I am able to count the adjustments.... Cannot speak for other subs, as this is my first REL sub. And yes sounds absolutely amazing :-)
@@christianaltmannjohansen7309 what notches? REL 812 and 512 have no notches. Compared to T series with clear markings and noticeable notch S series is not even close. I have owned both T and S series and as much as the S blows the T series for performance, the T was much easier to setup based on what I just said. Don’t take my word for it go to your local audio shop and take a peek at the T series rear knobs and you may understand.
I probably missed it in your video.... how did u connect the 2nd Sub to your Stereo Amp L,R speaker binding posts with the wires. Can u do that for both Subs ?
@@audio_resurgence_reviews thanks. Great video, Have u tried the Airship 2 for wireless subs. I have one the S510 it got nice classy Bass, saying that im planning to add a 1510 Predator 2, I got a large long room and need extra bass for some lower end chest slam. It also does Airship 2 for stereo.
I've got a pair of REL T9/x subs and the lack of markings on the crossover and gain knobs is pretty annoying. Mine does have notches that you can kinda feel but they aren't quite defined enough to be able to count out clicks. Those annoyances aside, the pair added quite a lot of enjoyment to my Klipsch Cornwall IVs.
A bit late and you may not answer but Hello, you stated a hum issue with class D while neg* black wire floating and said you reconnected that black wire and hum was gone but didn't mention 'to what'. Was it the amp BP or chassis ground screw? Cheers
Thanks for the nice video. I like to ask the follow: In a stereo set up, adding subwoofers pair, this pair should consist with the same brand and model subwoofers or there is no problem to use different subs models?
@@ΝικόλαοςΤσιφόρος There shouldn't be any instrument localization with a properly integrated sub, or pair of subs. You can't localize specific sounds in low frequencies in the same way that you can localize sounds from 100hz up. Plus, you don't want to hear any sound coming directly from the sub. If you can, the gain is set too high or the crossover point is set too high.
@@audio_resurgence_reviews I really appreciate and thank you very much for your help, sorry if I need another definition on the matter, supposedly properly tuned subs also improve soundstage, instrument local accuracy etc..., this should affect frequencies also above than 100 Hz, so do the different unit subs, left and right, affect this the same way?
@@ΝικόλαοςΤσιφόρος A good sub can make the soundstage sound bigger and can improve image density and specificity, but most of this is obviously from contribution in the lower frequencies. You shouldn't hear image localization, where it sounds like voices or instruments are outputting from the subwoofer. If someone were taken into your room blindfolded, they shouldn't be able to point towards the location of the sub and say: 'sound is coming from there'. That's what I meant earlier when I said there shouldn't be any image localization. The sub shouldn't be 'audible' in that sense. It should disappear as the source of sound, just like your main speakers, when properly set up. Yes, though a bit counterintuitive, a subwoofer can indirectly improve the top-end frequency response of a sound system, and help with imaging, although it doesn't usually directly enhance or contribute to the high frequencies. With a 24 dB/octave low-pass crossover set at 60 Hz, the output of the subwoofer decreases by 24 dB for every octave above the crossover frequency. One octave above 60 Hz is 120 Hz. At this point, the output would be reduced by 24 dB. Two octaves above 60 Hz is 240 Hz, where the output would be reduced by 48 dB. Since an output reduction of 48 dB is significant, by the time you reach 240 Hz, the subwoofer's output is very minimal and negligible past this point. But if you're running your main speakers through the sub's high-pass input, you're relieving your speakers and your amp from handling low-frequency duties. If you set it up this way (I don't as a general rule), the subwoofer's high-pass XO allows the main speakers and amp to focus on midrange and high frequencies. This can result in a cleaner and more detailed treble because the main speakers and your power amp are no longer trying to reproduce bass frequencies. The reduced distortion and increased clarity in the main speakers can lead to an apparent improvement in the top-end response. If you're not running the main speakers through the sub's high-pass filter, and you still claim that the top-end is improved, then you might have the crossover set too high. The problem with setting the XO high is that it's hard for it not to impact phase/timing. So usually a higher XO setting will create a smearing effect, making image specificity poor, compared to running without the sub. That's unless you can perfectly set the sub's time and phase alignment running software like REW. Hope that helps a bit..
ho delle proac studio 140 ascolto vinile con un technics sl 1200 mk2 e un amplificatore ma 6300 vorrei mettere un subwoofer della bk, l xxls400 ff, credi sia una buona scelta o non otterrei miglioramenti? grazie
Ciao, non conosco il subwoofer BK, ma penso che le Studio 140 siano veloci e dinamiche con un'eccellente risposta ai transienti, quindi trarrebbero beneficio da un subwoofer di alta qualità. Consiglierei un subwoofer più piccolo della REL, ci sono molte opzioni sul mercato dell'usato e non devono necessariamente essere costosi.
No mention of using a actual crossover, which I think is very important with sub for integration into a two channel set up. Glad you mentioned it here.
Personally I can only comment on the Carbon Specials as I haven't owned the S/812. I think either choice is probably fine. I don't think REL make any bad sounding subs, though they're not the easiest to integrate.
This is a fantastic video. I could not like more the sound of my pair of s/510. I really do not mind all the adjustment work, having SVS with a phone app on my HT system, those pots with no scale and lack of remote is complete horse shit,, making the setup 10X more annoying than it needs to be. High quality motorized pots dont cost much. $20 top. Come'on REL
With a pair of subs.............. Stack the two, centered between the Mains & all front baffles equidistant from front wall. ANY two separated subs will create cancellation & the 'sub crawl' is absolutely ridiculous. The ONLY reason 'audiophiles' don't stack centered subs is because it blocks their view of their gear which should NOT be between the Mains in the first place. Reggae, Funk & Brass 🔈🔉🔊
@@tagtag-connected5263 IRL, right & wrong do exist. Or in other words, results must be predictable and repeatable. What happens in your room is neither.
If you are a serious Audiophiliac with a 2-Channel audio system there is no way 2 subs is enough to get the most from your investment to improve the soundstage, detail, tonality, and give the sound more of a live feel
@@audio_resurgence_reviews I have 2 SVS Ultra subs with upgraded plate amps, but also my tower speakers have built-in powered subs with gain control Must say it sounds amazing indeed
Thanks for your suggestion Bobby, but I’m not shopping for subs. My direct question to you since you specifically criticized REL subs was “what are the better options in price AND performance compared to REL’s”? You can use the reviewer’s model or pick any other REL model and price point that suits you. I bet you would be hard pressed to find anything comparable. Have a nice day! :)
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Just a great explination, took me years but same experiance.
Glad the one thing I am absolutely livid about REL S series subs is mentioned and everyone has the same problem. No markings/tactile feedback on gain, crossover just nothing. Adjusting 2 subs to mimic the other pair of settings is a royal pain. S series are not cheap either, costing several thousands yet the lower priced TX at least have notches you can count unlike the S series.
I would agree, that is the only reason I went with T series REL
No Eq either. Hahahaha 🤣
Dont understand why people complain about this one. I have 1x REL S812 in my system. Gain and crossover both have notches, so I am able to count the adjustments.... Cannot speak for other subs, as this is my first REL sub. And yes sounds absolutely amazing :-)
@@christianaltmannjohansen7309 what notches? REL 812 and 512 have no notches. Compared to T series with clear markings and noticeable notch S series is not even close. I have owned both T and S series and as much as the S blows the T series for performance, the T was much easier to setup based on what I just said. Don’t take my word for it go to your local audio shop and take a peek at the T series rear knobs and you may understand.
I probably missed it in your video.... how did u connect the 2nd Sub to your Stereo Amp L,R speaker binding posts with the wires. Can u do that for both Subs ?
Yes, just connect each sub the same way to the L/R binding posts..
@@audio_resurgence_reviews thanks. Great video, Have u tried the Airship 2 for wireless subs. I have one the S510 it got nice classy Bass, saying that im planning to add a 1510 Predator 2, I got a large long room and need extra bass for some lower end chest slam. It also does Airship 2 for stereo.
I've got a pair of REL T9/x subs and the lack of markings on the crossover and gain knobs is pretty annoying. Mine does have notches that you can kinda feel but they aren't quite defined enough to be able to count out clicks. Those annoyances aside, the pair added quite a lot of enjoyment to my Klipsch Cornwall IVs.
A bit late and you may not answer but Hello, you stated a hum issue with class D while neg* black wire floating and said you reconnected that black wire and hum was gone but didn't mention 'to what'. Was it the amp BP or chassis ground screw? Cheers
I reconnected to the amp's speaker binding post. This is contrary to what it says in the manual, so check with your amp manufacturer first...
Please give tips to connect high level speakon+LFE- with rca from processor- in REL britannia b1 sub..
What's a good track to use for the setup?
REL recommends track 4 from the Sneakers soundtrack. I used some of Bilie Eilish songs.
Thanks for the nice video. I like to ask the follow: In a stereo set up, adding subwoofers pair, this pair should consist with the same brand and model subwoofers or there is no problem to use different subs models?
There's no problem using subs from different manufacturers so long as they're setup properly and so long as each sub is of the requisite quality.
@@audio_resurgence_reviews Thanks for your quick response, the reason I ask if different subs shift the instrument localization in stereo image.
@@ΝικόλαοςΤσιφόρος There shouldn't be any instrument localization with a properly integrated sub, or pair of subs. You can't localize specific sounds in low frequencies in the same way that you can localize sounds from 100hz up. Plus, you don't want to hear any sound coming directly from the sub. If you can, the gain is set too high or the crossover point is set too high.
@@audio_resurgence_reviews I really appreciate and thank you very much for your help, sorry if I need another definition on the matter, supposedly properly tuned subs also improve soundstage, instrument local accuracy etc..., this should affect frequencies also above than 100 Hz, so do the different unit subs, left and right, affect this the same way?
@@ΝικόλαοςΤσιφόρος A good sub can make the soundstage sound bigger and can improve image density and specificity, but most of this is obviously from contribution in the lower frequencies.
You shouldn't hear image localization, where it sounds like voices or instruments are outputting from the subwoofer. If someone were taken into your room blindfolded, they shouldn't be able to point towards the location of the sub and say: 'sound is coming from there'. That's what I meant earlier when I said there shouldn't be any image localization. The sub shouldn't be 'audible' in that sense. It should disappear as the source of sound, just like your main speakers, when properly set up.
Yes, though a bit counterintuitive, a subwoofer can indirectly improve the top-end frequency response of a sound system, and help with imaging, although it doesn't usually directly enhance or contribute to the high frequencies.
With a 24 dB/octave low-pass crossover set at 60 Hz, the output of the subwoofer decreases by 24 dB for every octave above the crossover frequency. One octave above 60 Hz is 120 Hz. At this point, the output would be reduced by 24 dB. Two octaves above 60 Hz is 240 Hz, where the output would be reduced by 48 dB.
Since an output reduction of 48 dB is significant, by the time you reach 240 Hz, the subwoofer's output is very minimal and negligible past this point.
But if you're running your main speakers through the sub's high-pass input, you're relieving your speakers and your amp from handling low-frequency duties. If you set it up this way (I don't as a general rule), the subwoofer's high-pass XO allows the main speakers and amp to focus on midrange and high frequencies. This can result in a cleaner and more detailed treble because the main speakers and your power amp are no longer trying to reproduce bass frequencies. The reduced distortion and increased clarity in the main speakers can lead to an apparent improvement in the top-end response.
If you're not running the main speakers through the sub's high-pass filter, and you still claim that the top-end is improved, then you might have the crossover set too high. The problem with setting the XO high is that it's hard for it not to impact phase/timing. So usually a higher XO setting will create a smearing effect, making image specificity poor, compared to running without the sub. That's unless you can perfectly set the sub's time and phase alignment running software like REW. Hope that helps a bit..
ho delle proac studio 140 ascolto vinile con un technics sl 1200 mk2 e un amplificatore ma 6300 vorrei mettere un subwoofer della bk, l xxls400 ff, credi sia una buona scelta o non otterrei miglioramenti? grazie
Ciao, non conosco il subwoofer BK, ma penso che le Studio 140 siano veloci e dinamiche con un'eccellente risposta ai transienti, quindi trarrebbero beneficio da un subwoofer di alta qualità. Consiglierei un subwoofer più piccolo della REL, ci sono molte opzioni sul mercato dell'usato e non devono necessariamente essere costosi.
2 Rel Carbon Specials 😊
JLA cr-1 active crossover
Shunyata Python xlr's 2.5m
Nice!
No mention of using a actual crossover, which I think is very important with sub for integration into a two channel set up. Glad you mentioned it here.
this clown pay 4000$ for a stupid cable? XDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD
I find with my t7 i have a music position and a movie position; I just can't get the thing to integrate for both on my Marantz SR8015
Which SPL Meter app do you recommend for the crossover setup?, I couldn’t locate the link. Great video!
I use 'SPL Meter' by Studio Six Digital on my iPhone
I just bought a pair of B&W 802 d4 speakers, which REL’s would you recommend, the S/812 or the Carbon Special?
Personally I can only comment on the Carbon Specials as I haven't owned the S/812. I think either choice is probably fine. I don't think REL make any bad sounding subs, though they're not the easiest to integrate.
This is a fantastic video. I could not like more the sound of my pair of s/510. I really do not mind all the adjustment work, having SVS with a phone app on my HT system, those pots with no scale and lack of remote is complete horse shit,, making the setup 10X more annoying than it needs to be. High quality motorized pots dont cost much. $20 top. Come'on REL
Two subs? Bass is not stereo related signal! 😂😂😂
With a pair of subs..............
Stack the two, centered between the Mains & all front baffles equidistant from front wall. ANY two separated subs will create cancellation & the 'sub crawl' is absolutely ridiculous.
The ONLY reason 'audiophiles' don't stack centered subs is because it blocks their view of their gear which should NOT be between the Mains in the first place.
Reggae, Funk & Brass 🔈🔉🔊
My subs sound much better in the corners. Each room will be different so no right or wrong.
@@tagtag-connected5263
IRL, right & wrong do exist. Or in other words, results must be predictable and repeatable. What happens in your room is neither.
If you are a serious Audiophiliac with a 2-Channel audio system there is no way 2 subs is enough to get the most from your investment to improve the soundstage, detail, tonality, and give the sound more of a live feel
How many subs do you consider to be enough?
@@audio_resurgence_reviews
I have 2 SVS Ultra subs with upgraded plate amps, but also my tower speakers have built-in powered subs with gain control Must say it sounds amazing indeed
REL subs are overrated and overpriced. There are plenty of better options out there in price and performance.
They either just had another or about to have another price increase.
@@madcrabber1113 bad move
So what are the “better options”?
@@CVH0907 All major brands have subs, for your every need and budget. Knock yourself out.
Thanks for your suggestion Bobby, but I’m not shopping for subs. My direct question to you since you specifically criticized REL subs was “what are the better options in price AND performance compared to REL’s”? You can use the reviewer’s model or pick any other REL model and price point that suits you. I bet you would be hard pressed to find anything comparable. Have a nice day! :)