I have a pair of Edward Green shoes and adore them like my BMW X5! I will wear them for the rest of my life and get them restored if I have to. Current pair was purchased in London in 2003 and still looks and feels as good as ever. Best shoes in the world. I know why I paid so much for them and do not regret a penny.
Last time I checked Vass where about 650-750. Sutor Mantellassi can be found for about that price range too. All Goodyear welted and fine craftsmanship. EG is good too, some people prefer it more than Lobb (YMMV) but I think for the 800-1200 range you cant beat Gaziano & Girling. Mid-Entry level you can look at Church's or Alden. Cheers!
@Khamomil Sorry for all the replys, but another note about the shank, or the peice of steel or wood or other material used. I just noticed in this video for the first time that EG uses a wood shank. Pierre corthay (french) uses this for his Pret a porter line as well as lobb owned by hermes. Wood shank is a sign of cutting costs. Steel shank is the best, but most of their customers are businessmen and dont want to take shoes off at the airport, but they could use a composite shank but its more $
@brikwak I don't think you understood me. If shoes really are "bench made", then of course it signifies good quality. However, too many companies use the term as a marketing term and don't actually "bench make" their shoes.
John lobb paris are hermes owned aka a conglomerate company. Hermes does value quality more than LVMH (berluti, lv, dior, etc), but its still a factory made, mass produced shoe. They use identical techniques to EG, but some like jlp better because of (opinion)sleeker lasts and the "museum calf" finish they use. JL paris bespoke is amazing of course but then the prices for it are through the roof. Lattanzi, Minerva, bemer, etc make a 100% hand welted and hand sewn sole shoe, but very expensive.
What do you think of John Lobb Paris shoes (Prestige and Classic lines) - also Ferragamo Tramezza line and Zegna couture shoes? In addition any thoughts on Fendi, Tod's and Bally? Thanks.
@Khamomil JM Weston as of recent is a bit confusing to me because of their terminology they use. My French is OK but not good enough to understand very specific terms used in different contexts. The founder of JM weston brand came to Weston, Massachusetts in USA to learn the process Americans taught him, and to show his appreciation to America he named the company as the town. If they did not change their process, they are hand welted with the sole machine attached, very good shoes.
@martydrooo I appreciate your taking the time to respond so thoroughly. I admit I know nothing of the shoemaker terminology. What source would you advise for learning the basics of good shoemaking, for someone who wants to buy quality? Thanks again.
@martydrooo Thanks for all the info only a "shoe insider" would know. What do you think of the JM Weston brand? I think it's French. Quite pricey but an old brand with a classic line.
Wildsmith is a shoemaker. It was established in 1847 by a couple. The wildsmith loafer, the first ever loafer design was made by Raymond Wildsmith for King George VI. Edward Green and other leading shoemakers copied the design from this original loafer. It seems the "in the know" is the uninformed. Search Wikipedia
furthermore, their only hand process is the clicking, and thats only because they can't afford the extremely expensive die press machines to machine cut the leather, thats direct from the EG camp. They're not even goodyear welted because the welt is sewn to a strip of glued linen and not a leather insole ridge. Everything else from the lasting to the welting to the closing/sole attachment is done by machine. John Lobb st james, Minerva, Bemer, etc to it ALL by hand!
Also, all the italian brands listen are either conglomerates themselves or owned by one so the quality is way down. Tods as some interesting driving shoes that can be had for less elsewhere (paying for the name)..santoni's fatte a mano line which is handmade for the most part is nice, especially if you can catch it on sale. I tend to not like the antiquing on the Italian shoes since its often overdone and tacky but sometimes looks very nice.
@Khamomil Also know that like many brands, JM weston is introducing new lines with easier/cheaper construction, but because what the people at weston say I could not get a direct answer. Their aesthetic finishing isn't as pleasing as lobb/green but if they still hand welt the shoes (most important part) then they are superior to lobb/green, which are both machine welted. I did see a linen feather at JMW before so maybe they are machine welting now. Their sole and upper leather is exceptional tho
@Dudufrias Edward Green are probably the best made shoes in the world, but that's down to the craftsmen they have working for them. EG originally only made shoes, not designed. There biggest cheat to date is copying the notable Wildsmith Loafer of Wildsmith & Co. Wildsmiths got these made by EG then shortly after, EG were producing a shoes called 'The Harrow' which was exactly the same...........you decide!
I would suggest a book called "Handmade Shoes for Men" by Laszlo Vass. I would also suggest saving your $ to buy a pair of Vass shoes. Shoes 5x lesser in quality, finish and detail are only 2x less in price so they are not worth getting. Finally I would suggest you look at a article called "Shoe Pyramid" by John Cusey.
Sorry I dont know about them, but Tom Ford uses G&G for some of their shoes. Ralph Lauren purple label shoes are sometimes from EG and G&G. Most large fashion houses wont be making their own shoes so if you buy shoes go straight to the source and buy a reliable pair from a respectable house. Allen Edmond and Alden are good, made in USA and affordable.
WhoChrisLiu I would go for Alden instead of Allen Edmond, the leather and construction are just not comparable. G&G worked at EG and created his models there, so you can basically find some very similar shoes in both, but I would go to the source... EG
I think you'll find they are goodyear welted, the goodyear term refers to machinery, youre getting confused with bespoke, its impossible to use the goodyear way with a hand carved insole, it can only be done with an awl and bristle, EG heels are built up by hand, no machine used in this process, C&J are cheaper than EG for a reason, they cost less to make, not only are C&J basically the same as EG, all manufacturers are basically the same, they all make shoes! materials and effort are what costs
C&J hand grade are basically the same exact thing as edward green, only EG are pricier. Companies try to say "hand made" without completely lying so they say handgrade which as a word means nothing. What I like about c&j is that they are more affordable than their overpriced cousin edward green. Don't get me wrong, c&j, eg, etc are nice shoes, but I'm using the benchmark of a entirely hand crafted shoe, because quality can only diminish from there but cant get better...
are you kidding me? theyre 95% machine made, far from the best, not to mention they use crust leathers, and the real reason they do that is to save money (no need to purchase more than 1 kind of leather) but the leather never has the same qualities as a leather fully finished at the tannery
lol, mass production using extensive machinineries. I highly doubt even 5% of the people who worked there can make a shoes from scratch to a finished piece.
I feel sorry for these leather workers, how content they are with spending lifetime at this toil for meager rewards. This movie is about sadness of human existence unexamined.
They earn very good money,have excellent working conditions,they love their jobs,and are dediated to their art.Northamptonshre does not have sweat shops or employ child labour.Do your research before commenting.
skills that are second to none? I would like to test that!... pfft. Second of the worst more like it. I would like to see one of there workers compete against me or any worker at John Lobb in London.
Excellent overview of a truly great shoemakng line. Love the guy / master of his craft who has been plying his trade for over 20 years, bless him .
I have a pair of Edward Green shoes and adore them like my BMW X5! I will wear them for the rest of my life and get them restored if I have to. Current pair was purchased in London in 2003 and still looks and feels as good as ever. Best shoes in the world. I know why I paid so much for them and do not regret a penny.
What a fine bunch of coves and covette's these shoes look magnificent I will be purchasing a pair for my daughter's wedding next year
Now all we need is some Vass, G&G and Berluti videos.
that's dedication to his craft
Oh super. How frightfully nice.
Last time I checked Vass where about 650-750. Sutor Mantellassi can be found for about that price range too. All Goodyear welted and fine craftsmanship. EG is good too, some people prefer it more than Lobb (YMMV) but I think for the 800-1200 range you cant beat Gaziano & Girling. Mid-Entry level you can look at Church's or Alden.
Cheers!
@Khamomil Sorry for all the replys, but another note about the shank, or the peice of steel or wood or other material used. I just noticed in this video for the first time that EG uses a wood shank. Pierre corthay (french) uses this for his Pret a porter line as well as lobb owned by hermes. Wood shank is a sign of cutting costs. Steel shank is the best, but most of their customers are businessmen and dont want to take shoes off at the airport, but they could use a composite shank but its more $
@brikwak I don't think you understood me. If shoes really are "bench made", then of course it signifies good quality. However, too many companies use the term as a marketing term and don't actually "bench make" their shoes.
Ho avuto il privilegio di fare uno stage nel 1991 grandissima esperienza professionale.
John lobb paris are hermes owned aka a conglomerate company. Hermes does value quality more than LVMH (berluti, lv, dior, etc), but its still a factory made, mass produced shoe. They use identical techniques to EG, but some like jlp better because of (opinion)sleeker lasts and the "museum calf" finish they use. JL paris bespoke is amazing of course but then the prices for it are through the roof. Lattanzi, Minerva, bemer, etc make a 100% hand welted and hand sewn sole shoe, but very expensive.
lots of prep work
Beautiful work.
What do you think of John Lobb Paris shoes (Prestige and Classic lines) - also Ferragamo Tramezza line and Zegna couture shoes? In addition any thoughts on Fendi, Tod's and Bally? Thanks.
@Khamomil JM Weston as of recent is a bit confusing to me because of their terminology they use. My French is OK but not good enough to understand very specific terms used in different contexts. The founder of JM weston brand came to Weston, Massachusetts in USA to learn the process Americans taught him, and to show his appreciation to America he named the company as the town. If they did not change their process, they are hand welted with the sole machine attached, very good shoes.
@martydrooo I appreciate your taking the time to respond so thoroughly. I admit I know nothing of the shoemaker terminology.
What source would you advise for learning the basics of good shoemaking, for someone who wants to buy quality? Thanks again.
EG's are the best shoes in the world!
@martydrooo
Thanks for all the info only a "shoe insider" would know.
What do you think of the JM Weston brand? I think it's French. Quite pricey but an old brand with a classic line.
Isn't this the same argument went on in Styleforum and AskAndy...
Very Noyce!
the guy who licked the polishing cloth...we should all pray for him.
the true spit shine lol
Wildsmith is a shoemaker. It was established in 1847 by a couple. The wildsmith loafer, the first ever loafer design was made by Raymond Wildsmith for King George VI. Edward Green and other leading shoemakers copied the design from this original loafer. It seems the "in the know" is the uninformed.
Search Wikipedia
Handmade shoes: lasted by machine, goodyear welted by machine, and outsole stitched by mahcine.
furthermore, their only hand process is the clicking, and thats only because they can't afford the extremely expensive die press machines to machine cut the leather, thats direct from the EG camp. They're not even goodyear welted because the welt is sewn to a strip of glued linen and not a leather insole ridge. Everything else from the lasting to the welting to the closing/sole attachment is done by machine. John Lobb st james, Minerva, Bemer, etc to it ALL by hand!
the radio next to the lady at 1:40 looks so cheap and all the material there are god damn expensive!
Also, all the italian brands listen are either conglomerates themselves or owned by one so the quality is way down. Tods as some interesting driving shoes that can be had for less elsewhere (paying for the name)..santoni's fatte a mano line which is handmade for the most part is nice, especially if you can catch it on sale. I tend to not like the antiquing on the Italian shoes since its often overdone and tacky but sometimes looks very nice.
the most important part of the process is 6.40 :-) I like too!
they been stitching welt dry, machine lasting and using cork since 1890?
nice.
@Khamomil Also know that like many brands, JM weston is introducing new lines with easier/cheaper construction, but because what the people at weston say I could not get a direct answer. Their aesthetic finishing isn't as pleasing as lobb/green but if they still hand welt the shoes (most important part) then they are superior to lobb/green, which are both machine welted. I did see a linen feather at JMW before so maybe they are machine welting now. Their sole and upper leather is exceptional tho
I want one!
@Dudufrias Edward Green are probably the best made shoes in the world, but that's down to the craftsmen they have working for them. EG originally only made shoes, not designed. There biggest cheat to date is copying the notable Wildsmith Loafer of Wildsmith & Co. Wildsmiths got these made by EG then shortly after, EG were producing a shoes called 'The Harrow' which was exactly the same...........you decide!
I would suggest a book called "Handmade Shoes for Men" by Laszlo Vass. I would also suggest saving your $ to buy a pair of Vass shoes. Shoes 5x lesser in quality, finish and detail are only 2x less in price so they are not worth getting. Finally I would suggest you look at a article called "Shoe Pyramid" by John Cusey.
WhoChrisLiu comparing vass to EG... lol
Sorry I dont know about them, but Tom Ford uses G&G for some of their shoes. Ralph Lauren purple label shoes are sometimes from EG and G&G. Most large fashion houses wont be making their own shoes so if you buy shoes go straight to the source and buy a reliable pair from a respectable house. Allen Edmond and Alden are good, made in USA and affordable.
WhoChrisLiu I would go for Alden instead of Allen Edmond, the leather and construction are just not comparable.
G&G worked at EG and created his models there, so you can basically find some very similar shoes in both, but I would go to the source... EG
Sebastien Hurgon Id rather have AE calf than Alden...but Alden has better shell in my opinion
Bonjour je suis algerien jaimmes votres mities inceque il ya un poste de travailles chez vous. Merci bo courages mercie
so beautiful! im a girl and gosh. i wish i could wear men's shoes =__=''
What about Crockett and Jones handgrade line?
I think you'll find they are goodyear welted, the goodyear term refers to machinery, youre getting confused with bespoke, its impossible to use the goodyear way with a hand carved insole, it can only be done with an awl and bristle, EG heels are built up by hand, no machine used in this process, C&J are cheaper than EG for a reason, they cost less to make, not only are C&J basically the same as EG, all manufacturers are basically the same, they all make shoes! materials and effort are what costs
prada gucci ferragamo etc claim that their shoes are made by artisans in italy is that true? do you know something about that?
@rubicscube007
maybe you could get such a pair bespoke-made for you?!
what is the cost?
C&J hand grade are basically the same exact thing as edward green, only EG are pricier. Companies try to say "hand made" without completely lying so they say handgrade which as a word means nothing. What I like about c&j is that they are more affordable than their overpriced cousin edward green. Don't get me wrong, c&j, eg, etc are nice shoes, but I'm using the benchmark of a entirely hand crafted shoe, because quality can only diminish from there but cant get better...
The quality of leather is really different, as well as finition level
@magicmatt500 Yes, I suppose so.
エドワードもぉ～最高だよ！ラブ注入！！！
6:42 dude what are you doing ??
I can agree with that but just referring to the guy getting a nice taste of that dirty assed looking rag not the whole process of making the shoes
are you kidding me? theyre 95% machine made, far from the best, not to mention they use crust leathers, and the real reason they do that is to save money (no need to purchase more than 1 kind of leather) but the leather never has the same qualities as a leather fully finished at the tannery
martydrooo it is not crust
I´m messing with you.
in fact, most of the big English shoemakers are not true shoemakers. Those exist in a few countries, notably Hungary, Japan and recently Brazil.
lol, mass production using extensive machinineries. I highly doubt even 5% of the people who worked there can make a shoes from scratch to a finished piece.
I feel sorry for these leather workers, how content they are with spending lifetime at this toil for meager rewards. This movie is about sadness of human existence unexamined.
They earn very good money,have excellent working conditions,they love their jobs,and are dediated to their art.Northamptonshre does not have sweat shops or employ child labour.Do your research before commenting.
skills that are second to none? I would like to test that!... pfft. Second of the worst more like it. I would like to see one of there workers compete against me or any worker at John Lobb in London.
RHBootmakers come on be nice with us...
both eg and lobb do a great job...
I promise I will buy a pair of your brand one day
RHBootmakers dont forget eg made john lobb shoes in the beginning...
1 person is a woman.