@@user-vu4wt5wt1p I think it’s more fun flying on calm days. A gyro makes a moderately windy day feel like a calm day - personally I think that’s more enjoyable.
+1, for me gyro is a must have for all my models. Not for assist modes, only for wind rejection, It allows to fly small airplanes even in windy conditions, but still with their fast reactions. You learn/improve skills better from small models than with large ones slower and easier to fly. I have more fun with those small models, easy transportation fully assemble, fast ready to fly on the field, small batteries...etc. I use less and less my larges models. Less constraints more fun ;o) Too many people beleived that gyros are only for assist mode, they are wrong, gyros make small planes fly like larger one. Take a small PA addiction with a gyro and you have lot of fun regardless of the weather. After take a 100" 3D model, and you fill like boring with a truck, slow, smoothing mistakes.
💯 My 2 favorite planes are UMX Pitts and UMX P51 voodoo. These planes are quick, snappy and so much fun to fly. I'm now practicing with 1.2m planes and enjoy it, but definitely need to get the rates up, or they feel sluggish. In this size, Im training with a Arrows T28 Trojan...and definitely looking at that FMS Dago Red P51. Though the skywing laser in this video looks really fun!
That is so right! I’ve heard rant from the anti-gyro faction, who then tell about their favourite model, which is more than four times the size of my gyro assisted plane. No! You don’t need artificial stability to fly. I’m proud to say I learned to fly RC without a gyro. 80% of my models have no gyro. A good trainer plane is designed to be very stable, some scale models aren’t. Especially when the wingspan is less than 36 inches. I’m only an intermediate RC pilot, who occasionally attempts a manoeuvre that goes haywire, having a “self-leveling” switch can save my smaller models from a nasty crash. PS. Great camera work guys.
Great footage and demonstration guys. I like to use the feature too, especially in scale aircraft. It makes for a much more enjoyable and scale like flight when the wind is a tad ‘bumpy’.
Perfect explanation and demonstration. Especially about bad habits. 100% agree. Great camera work too. I learned to fly RC on 400mm RTF War Birds, Spitfire and Corsair. They came with 6 axis gyros. Didn't buy a simulator. Didn't buy a big floaty trainer. Didn't join a Club and use the Buddy box method. The day I decided I wanted to fly, I flew. Modern technology and EPO foam planes was the reason why and how I could "safely" (so to speak) get in the air day one. Before those of you that have different opinions torch me, I'm not saying my way was the right way or wrong way. It was just the way I learned how to fly RC. Muscle Memory was the number one thing I knew I needed to learn. Isn't that what a Simulator does? Isn't that what your instructor on the buddy box does when you get in trouble, flip the switch? Now I can fly those warbirds using their toy grade RTF transmitters without any gyro assist. Talk about crazy fun and pride on learning that skill. When I moved up to a Hobby Grade tx and larger planes, 750mm to 1270mm, they were amazingly easy and fun to fly. I too as demonstrated in your video fly using the wind mitigation mode 100% of the time to reduce my workload. I say it's like using power steering to make your Driving Experience more pleasurable. Great informational vid indeed.
"Before those of you that have different opinions torch me, I'm not saying my way was the right way or wrong way. It was just the way I learned how to fly RC." On this channel, I call this "Your money, your hobby." I say it all the time because I get pretty worn out with pontificating dogmatic "governance" imposed by certain personalities. If it works for you and you don't endanger anybody else or their property: "Your money, your hobby!"
@@RCVideoReviews thank you for your reply and understanding why I put in my "disclaimer." There are so many wonderful people on the interweb. And then there are only 2 of the others. Those 2 seem to get around a lot. 😆
I get your bad habits. What I've done is always fly my RFE in AS3X only. When flying in SAFE out at the field, I always return the plane to level myself. I don't just let go of the sticks unless I'm in trouble. I'm flying more and more just in AS3X too so that is helping me learn more and recover from my own mistakes.
I have the Admiral/Lemon RX receivers in most of my planes and love them. I'm in NW Ohio where we hardly have calm winds anymore. I've been flying for 15+ years and wouldn't fly without them.
I'm still pretty novice, so I keep wind stabilization on all the time and have auto-level on a momentary switch (panic button). I use auto-level 2 ways: 1) as a baseline while trimming, i.e. trim until auto-level does not change the behavior of the plane while straight and level. 2) If I lose orientation or get into a weird angle, I can auto-level to avoid disaster. I fly with the radiomaster Zorro, which has a great little momentary button right under your index finger. This has very quickly weaned me off of "safe" mode and helped me refine my skills because I can have freedom to try maneuvers but also a bail out button if something goes wrong. Best of both worlds for a novice.
Yeah, if you're a novice without someone there to help you, they are definitely a lifesaver. As long as you connect the dots on the behavioral differences of auto level and normal mode flying.
U don't want to use auto level when your trimming....because it automatically levels out....trim your plane I no wind if possible without any assistance...or directly into the wind but no stabilization or self leveling to get the plane truly trimmed at about 3/4 throttle
@Toryh86 The auto-level is on a momentary button, so it's only engaged when actively pressing the button. When released, auto-level turns off immediately. So if there is any pitch, roll, or yaw change when releasing the button, I can instantly see how far off the trim is and in what axis. I am not trimming with the auto-level active, but using the gyros to momentarily establish an objective straight and level (1 or 2 seconds), then release the gyros and adjust trim to get back to that straight and level with out gyros engaged. Hope that makes sense.
It was blowing hard, hopefully we can get the maidens done the next time we're out there , I did have A blast with my Kaos, What a fantastic flying sport airplane that is.
So windy where i live no gyro makes it more of a chore than fun to fly. Not to mention couple weeks ago i knocked the module off my transmitter in flight but it failsafed to stabilized mode which saved me a plane somehow it landed in the only water on 11 acres but whatever
In regards to autolevel as teaching bad habits................it can and does, but not everyone has access to a friend or a club with in a decent amount a driving time where they can learn. Even there is a club say within 20 or 30 mins, there's only so many hours in the day; if I was driving to a club to have someone teach help me, that would have cut down my flying the 1st year by 80%. I started off flying FPV with a kopilot, crashed a bunch...............part of the gig (poorly trimmed planes and every other mistake a nobbie makes). Auto level/balance gives a new pilot fighting chance to get the plane in the air and get some stick time. Am I the best LOS flyer, nope. Am I the best a flying LOS in manual mode, nope. Because I'm still learning, this is how I use something like BYME A stabilizer. I launch the plane in stablized mode (assuming a maiden), get it about 3 or even 4 mistakes high, flip over to manual mode (using the trick you illustrated with the kopilot about using different rates and trims tied a flight mode), trim in out on the radio in manual mode, land, make the adjustments to trim, and repeat the process until the plane is trimmed correctly in manual. Then fly first in autobalance / level mode till I'm three mistakes high and practice flying in manual mode. That seems to work for me as way to train and get better at flying without stabilization and without having to spend most of my time repairing instead of flying.
We have a saying around here: "Your money, your hobby". You have to do what makes sense to you. FWIW I did say in the video, if you're a novice and don't have help, go ahead and use auto level. Clearly that is better than the alternative of learning the hard way.
Flying without a stabilizer is like driving without power steering and power brakes. I always land with self-leveling/ safe on, why? Because I put a higher value on my planes more than my ego.
One question that concerns me... if you are using regular wind rejection stabilised mode (not level mode), what happens if, in level flight, you close the throttle... will the plane start to descend as normal, or will the gyro try to keep the plane flying level until stall? The gyro doesn't have any 'knowledge' of throttle input so does it assume non pilot input.
The gyro only reacts to uncommanded movements. If the plane is trimmed and balanced correctly it should stay somewhat flat during power off decent in which case the gyro won’t react. If the nose drops the gyro will make an initial correction then return to neutral. It does not try to maintain level. It simply reacts once to uncommanded movement.
What would happen if I used this gyro on a twin (glow) engine and one engine dies? Would it manage the rudder for me to counter the lost torque of a single engine?
Great principal do not fly a plane that u cannot land without gyros. BTW Skywing has good sales on their planes but are not due in till October. Can you recommend one of their 48" planes over the others. I would be flying it as a sport/pattern plane not 3D Thanks
If you're looking at a 48" Skywing for sport/pattern, I think I'd start with the NG. It has a longer tail moment than the others so it doesn't wad up as tight but it's also more stable in the slower maneuvers.
Thanks for the video and the camera job. I have s6r in some of my planes, and for those with digital servos they just shut-off randomly, I imagine because of not enough BEC current. What’s the minimum amps required ? (off course over what’s needed for the servos themselves)
The RX itself doesn't need much. If you have your BEC/ESC connected to pins on the RX with a common voltage rail, the RX will not interfere with current delivery. If you have servos cutting off randomly, I definitely would stop flying that setup until sorting it out.
Might be nitpicking but your term “wind rejection” stabilizer might be a little misleading. It isn’t exactly removing WIND effects, but TURBULENCE effects! For example, In a steady-state wind situation the aircraft would fly just as smoothly with or without the 3 axis stabilizer. However, in gusty situations, which are more often the case, the stabilizer commands control outputs to “dampen” the effects of turbulence. Interesting how for $50 or so one can put a very similar stabilizer in their cheap foamboard airplane as a modern transport aircraft such as the Boeing 787 (my current office!) Great concept for a video though and great explanation John! Love your work👍
I have turned on notification 'All'. but no popup or new video uploaded indication. it showed in suggestion only. RUclips is worst in their notification part.
Have you ever gotten the S6R stabilization to work with a dual channel aileron setup? It's fine with a Y cable, but I can't get it working with separate channels. I used the Lua script to change channel 5 from AUX to AIL2, but the stabilization only moves the aileron on channel 1.
Pretty regularly. Watch this: ruclips.net/video/BObseyO1cjE/видео.html Also, make sure you do the calibration routine AFTER setting Aileron 2 up on the Aux output with *full stick deflection for all control surfaces after the servo dance*.
Wind rejection or uncommanded movement is a perturbance in this case as a result of wind. So the reaction by the gyro is temporary. In autolevel modes the gyro references a level configuration and moves the surface until the model returns to that level configuration.
Have you found out a way to have full servo throws when the gyro is on with the sxr? I am setting up a plane with an s8r and it's limited to 50% throws while the gyro is on. Thanks!
I have a HobbyEagle A3Pro I want to use in my new HobbyKing Crusader 30E. I would like to add Flaperons. Do you know if I can do that with a Gyro? I kind of feel like I might need more then 3 out ports so I can run a lead to both wing servos instead of a Y-lead/wire. Maybe you can give me some insight on this. Thank you.
For an SBUS RX with no PWM pins, you need the A3 S4 otherwise you won't have throttle out. The A3S4 is the only one I'm aware of that can pass 5 channels through: A1/2, E, T, R or A, E1/2, T, R.
@@RCVideoReviews newbi question: pass 5 ch through means that you need something else to power the channel in addition to the gyro mini? i saw a video using a min and the sbus rx only without anything else....am i missing something?
Is it possible to have flaperons going through a gyro with some edgeTX trickery? Specifically a Byme-A gyro paired with a FS-ia6b reciever. I do know each aileron servo needs to be controlled independently. No y cable.
Probably with a mix. When the gyro is enabled, it will do what it needs to do based on your gyro setup to correct a perturbance. Your radio setup should be independent of those corrections. i.e. If you were to reverse an elevator output, your stick motions would need to be inverted, but the gyro is unaware of that reversal, so if it needs to level pitch, it would do the same thing it always does to correct. For flaperons, you could create a mix for the two channels. The gyro will continue manipulating those two channels as setup. I don't see a reason this wouldn't work with a simple mix.
Do you STLs for your 3D printed benchtop "proof of concept" model? Love the channel. You have been a ton of help in navigating edge tx. You have caused many light bulb moments followed by what if. Thank you
@@anastigmat I appreciate your concern for that particular word I used to describe a 3-axis stabilization unit. I felt calling it a gyro was just simpler.
I wanted to add an update. I was able to get flaperons to work when using the Byme-A stabilizer. However I discovered that the Byme-A module offers no stabilization correction through its ch3 pins, its just an uncorrected throttle pass through.
Well done ! I have a gyro in all my planes since a very windy holiday. Thanks to the cameramen 👍
I’ve got a cheap LemonRX stabiliser receiver. Love it! It’s like having an off switch for bad weather. Makes terrible weather flyable.
Amen!
@Always Flying Seems to work brilliantly to me.
Just learn to fly properly and the wind will not bother you. No need for a crutch!
@@user-vu4wt5wt1p I think it’s more fun flying on calm days. A gyro makes a moderately windy day feel like a calm day - personally I think that’s more enjoyable.
Great clarification on how wind rejection on these gyros works, And great camera work guys. Keep up the great job.
👍
Thanks for the with/without stabilisation demonstration!
That was awesome👌🏻
And thanks Dave and Fred for the great camerawork 📹🤳👍😅
+1, for me gyro is a must have for all my models. Not for assist modes, only for wind rejection, It allows to fly small airplanes even in windy conditions, but still with their fast reactions. You learn/improve skills better from small models than with large ones slower and easier to fly. I have more fun with those small models, easy transportation fully assemble, fast ready to fly on the field, small batteries...etc. I use less and less my larges models. Less constraints more fun ;o)
Too many people beleived that gyros are only for assist mode, they are wrong, gyros make small planes fly like larger one. Take a small PA addiction with a gyro and you have lot of fun regardless of the weather. After take a 100" 3D model, and you fill like boring with a truck, slow, smoothing mistakes.
Well said and we agree 👏😊👍
💯 My 2 favorite planes are UMX Pitts and UMX P51 voodoo. These planes are quick, snappy and so much fun to fly. I'm now practicing with 1.2m planes and enjoy it, but definitely need to get the rates up, or they feel sluggish. In this size, Im training with a Arrows T28 Trojan...and definitely looking at that FMS Dago Red P51. Though the skywing laser in this video looks really fun!
That is so right!
I’ve heard rant from the anti-gyro faction, who then tell about their favourite model, which is more than four times the size of my gyro assisted plane. No! You don’t need artificial stability to fly. I’m proud to say I learned to fly RC without a gyro. 80% of my models have no gyro.
A good trainer plane is designed to be very stable, some scale models aren’t. Especially when the wingspan is less than 36 inches.
I’m only an intermediate RC pilot, who occasionally attempts a manoeuvre that goes haywire, having a “self-leveling” switch can save my smaller models from a nasty crash.
PS. Great camera work guys.
Gyros really help out on smaller wingspan planes. I use the Radiolink Byme-a , Spektrum AS3X 🎉
That Byme-a is a little thing. Nice find.
Thanks for the video guys. Great job filming. Worth every penny.😊
👍🙂
Great footage and demonstration guys. I like to use the feature too, especially in scale aircraft. It makes for a much more enjoyable and scale like flight when the wind is a tad ‘bumpy’.
Definitely. There's so much vitriol out there when it comes to gyros--I don't understand it and don't care. I think they're great devices.
Great video guys.. Really appreciate the work you put into these videos. I know it ain't easy... - Will
Dave and Fred have been angles for the channel. So glad to have them around.
@@RCVideoReviews I need a couple camera men for my channel. The GoPro hat cam just doesn’t cut it.
@@RCVideoReviews 😇🙏😇😁
I know exactly how you feel. I used a hat cam for a very long time. Despite your best effort to make it work, there's only so much you can do.
Perfect explanation and demonstration.
Especially about bad habits. 100% agree.
Great camera work too.
I learned to fly RC on 400mm RTF War Birds, Spitfire and Corsair.
They came with 6 axis gyros.
Didn't buy a simulator.
Didn't buy a big floaty trainer.
Didn't join a Club and use the Buddy box method.
The day I decided I wanted to fly, I flew.
Modern technology and EPO foam planes was the reason why and how I could "safely" (so to speak) get in the air day one.
Before those of you that have different opinions torch me, I'm not saying my way was the right way or wrong way. It was just the way I learned how to fly RC.
Muscle Memory was the number one thing I knew I needed to learn.
Isn't that what a Simulator does?
Isn't that what your instructor on the buddy box does when you get in trouble, flip the switch?
Now I can fly those warbirds using their toy grade RTF transmitters without any gyro assist.
Talk about crazy fun and pride on learning that skill.
When I moved up to a Hobby Grade tx and larger planes, 750mm to 1270mm, they were amazingly easy and fun to fly.
I too as demonstrated in your video fly using the wind mitigation mode 100% of the time to reduce my workload.
I say it's like using power steering to make your Driving Experience more pleasurable.
Great informational vid indeed.
"Before those of you that have different opinions torch me, I'm not saying my way was the right way or wrong way. It was just the way I learned how to fly RC."
On this channel, I call this "Your money, your hobby." I say it all the time because I get pretty worn out with pontificating dogmatic "governance" imposed by certain personalities. If it works for you and you don't endanger anybody else or their property: "Your money, your hobby!"
@@RCVideoReviews thank you for your reply and understanding why I put in my "disclaimer."
There are so many wonderful people on the interweb.
And then there are only 2 of the others.
Those 2 seem to get around a lot. 😆
I get your bad habits. What I've done is always fly my RFE in AS3X only. When flying in SAFE out at the field, I always return the plane to level myself. I don't just let go of the sticks unless I'm in trouble. I'm flying more and more just in AS3X too so that is helping me learn more and recover from my own mistakes.
I have the Admiral/Lemon RX receivers in most of my planes and love them.
I'm in NW Ohio where we hardly have calm winds anymore.
I've been flying for 15+ years and wouldn't fly without them.
They make flying more relaxing.
I'm still pretty novice, so I keep wind stabilization on all the time and have auto-level on a momentary switch (panic button). I use auto-level 2 ways: 1) as a baseline while trimming, i.e. trim until auto-level does not change the behavior of the plane while straight and level. 2) If I lose orientation or get into a weird angle, I can auto-level to avoid disaster.
I fly with the radiomaster Zorro, which has a great little momentary button right under your index finger. This has very quickly weaned me off of "safe" mode and helped me refine my skills because I can have freedom to try maneuvers but also a bail out button if something goes wrong. Best of both worlds for a novice.
Yeah, if you're a novice without someone there to help you, they are definitely a lifesaver. As long as you connect the dots on the behavioral differences of auto level and normal mode flying.
U don't want to use auto level when your trimming....because it automatically levels out....trim your plane I no wind if possible without any assistance...or directly into the wind but no stabilization or self leveling to get the plane truly trimmed at about 3/4 throttle
@Toryh86 The auto-level is on a momentary button, so it's only engaged when actively pressing the button. When released, auto-level turns off immediately. So if there is any pitch, roll, or yaw change when releasing the button, I can instantly see how far off the trim is and in what axis. I am not trimming with the auto-level active, but using the gyros to momentarily establish an objective straight and level (1 or 2 seconds), then release the gyros and adjust trim to get back to that straight and level with out gyros engaged. Hope that makes sense.
I use gyros and self-leveling because I like them.
Excellent as always!
Thank you.
❤ thanks fellas❤
👍
It was blowing hard, hopefully we can get the maidens done the next time we're out there , I did have A blast with my Kaos, What a fantastic flying sport airplane that is.
Turned out to be a good day yesterday. Glad you were able to make it out.
@@RCVideoReviews 👍🙂
hmmm ok .... I never got my completely hooked up so I'll try it again
Some bad habits are good tooo 😉 great vid you guys 😉😎
LOL, yeah.
So windy where i live no gyro makes it more of a chore than fun to fly. Not to mention couple weeks ago i knocked the module off my transmitter in flight but it failsafed to stabilized mode which saved me a plane somehow it landed in the only water on 11 acres but whatever
Wow, that is lucky.
what stabilizer are you using?
Gyros are great. They keep your plane safe just incase you run into trouble. Great camera work guys ..
Thank you.
Well done to your cameramen
What a beautiful flying area
Agreed. Very nice field. I'm lucky to have access to it.
In regards to autolevel as teaching bad habits................it can and does, but not everyone has access to a friend or a club with in a decent amount a driving time where they can learn. Even there is a club say within 20 or 30 mins, there's only so many hours in the day; if I was driving to a club to have someone teach help me, that would have cut down my flying the 1st year by 80%. I started off flying FPV with a kopilot, crashed a bunch...............part of the gig (poorly trimmed planes and every other mistake a nobbie makes). Auto level/balance gives a new pilot fighting chance to get the plane in the air and get some stick time. Am I the best LOS flyer, nope. Am I the best a flying LOS in manual mode, nope. Because I'm still learning, this is how I use something like BYME A stabilizer. I launch the plane in stablized mode (assuming a maiden), get it about 3 or even 4 mistakes high, flip over to manual mode (using the trick you illustrated with the kopilot about using different rates and trims tied a flight mode), trim in out on the radio in manual mode, land, make the adjustments to trim, and repeat the process until the plane is trimmed correctly in manual. Then fly first in autobalance / level mode till I'm three mistakes high and practice flying in manual mode. That seems to work for me as way to train and get better at flying without stabilization and without having to spend most of my time repairing instead of flying.
We have a saying around here: "Your money, your hobby". You have to do what makes sense to you.
FWIW I did say in the video, if you're a novice and don't have help, go ahead and use auto level. Clearly that is better than the alternative of learning the hard way.
@@RCVideoReviews Hope I didn't come across as not appreciating the content of your video or disagreeing with your approach. Happy flying!
Thx for this. What is your 'go to' gyro unit for wind rejection?
Hobbyeagle A3 Super 4 is my first choice.
Flying without a stabilizer is like driving without power steering and power brakes.
I always land with self-leveling/ safe on, why?
Because I put a higher value on my planes more than my ego.
Practical point of view. If it works for you, you're not wrong. :)
Wind rejection? What is it? Is it the same as As3x? Optimized mode? Stabilizer mode?
Couldn't tell you. I don't use Spektrum gear.
It is the SAME as AS3X and if you DO fly Spektrum, it is SUPER easy to setup with FORWARD PROGRAMMING on the Spektrum transmitter 😉
@@re3065 thanks. Yes I used Spektrum tx, rx. But, I never used gyros. Thx.
love gyros in my small planes!!! Im not Proud! lol
If it works for you, that's all that matters.
Couldn’t agree more. The technology is cheap, gives you more flying days and saves in spare parts.
100%
@ 4:30 @Dave, thanks (LOL!!!!), "inverted wind rejection¨ is not available yet! ;-D
👍🙂
One question that concerns me... if you are using regular wind rejection stabilised mode (not level mode), what happens if, in level flight, you close the throttle... will the plane start to descend as normal, or will the gyro try to keep the plane flying level until stall? The gyro doesn't have any 'knowledge' of throttle input so does it assume non pilot input.
The gyro only reacts to uncommanded movements. If the plane is trimmed and balanced correctly it should stay somewhat flat during power off decent in which case the gyro won’t react. If the nose drops the gyro will make an initial correction then return to neutral. It does not try to maintain level. It simply reacts once to uncommanded movement.
@@RCVideoReviews Hi, thanks for the clarification.
What would happen if I used this gyro on a twin (glow) engine and one engine dies? Would it manage the rudder for me to counter the lost torque of a single engine?
The gyro makes it fun
Great principal do not fly a plane that u cannot land without gyros. BTW Skywing has good sales on their planes but are not due in till October. Can you recommend one of their 48" planes over the others. I would be flying it as a sport/pattern plane not 3D Thanks
If you're looking at a 48" Skywing for sport/pattern, I think I'd start with the NG. It has a longer tail moment than the others so it doesn't wad up as tight but it's also more stable in the slower maneuvers.
@@RCVideoReviews Merci beaucoup
May i know what brand gyro u are using..and . Can u share how tu setting gyro
ruclips.net/video/sbTH7e0Tp0s/видео.html
Lovely stuff!
Thanks!
Thanks for the video and the camera job.
I have s6r in some of my planes, and for those with digital servos they just shut-off randomly, I imagine because of not enough BEC current.
What’s the minimum amps required ? (off course over what’s needed for the servos themselves)
The RX itself doesn't need much. If you have your BEC/ESC connected to pins on the RX with a common voltage rail, the RX will not interfere with current delivery. If you have servos cutting off randomly, I definitely would stop flying that setup until sorting it out.
Might be nitpicking but your term “wind rejection” stabilizer might be a little misleading. It isn’t exactly removing WIND effects, but TURBULENCE effects! For example, In a steady-state wind situation the aircraft would fly just as smoothly with or without the 3 axis stabilizer. However, in gusty situations, which are more often the case, the stabilizer commands control outputs to “dampen” the effects of turbulence. Interesting how for $50 or so one can put a very similar stabilizer in their cheap foamboard airplane as a modern transport aircraft such as the Boeing 787 (my current office!) Great concept for a video though and great explanation John! Love your work👍
I have turned on notification 'All'. but no popup or new video uploaded indication. it showed in suggestion only. RUclips is worst in their notification part.
Hmm, yeah that sucks.
Have you ever gotten the S6R stabilization to work with a dual channel aileron setup? It's fine with a Y cable, but I can't get it working with separate channels. I used the Lua script to change channel 5 from AUX to AIL2, but the stabilization only moves the aileron on channel 1.
Pretty regularly. Watch this: ruclips.net/video/BObseyO1cjE/видео.html
Also, make sure you do the calibration routine AFTER setting Aileron 2 up on the Aux output with *full stick deflection for all control surfaces after the servo dance*.
When you say "wind rejection" are you referring to NORMAL or LOCK (AVCS) mode on the gyro? I feel like both of these modes are wind rejection?
Wind rejection or uncommanded movement is a perturbance in this case as a result of wind. So the reaction by the gyro is temporary. In autolevel modes the gyro references a level configuration and moves the surface until the model returns to that level configuration.
Have you found out a way to have full servo throws when the gyro is on with the sxr? I am setting up a plane with an s8r and it's limited to 50% throws while the gyro is on. Thanks!
Sounds like you need to do the calibration....ruclips.net/video/BObseyO1cjE/видео.html
wind rejection stabilize ? i just heard that . how to activate it ? i'am using A3 Pro v1
I use the phrase wind rejection to characterize what the basic stab mode is doing.
So basically like acro mode using a flight controller?
Similar with the exception there is no governance over rate of movement which you normally specify in an inav/bf setup for Acro mode.
I have a HobbyEagle A3Pro I want to use in my new HobbyKing Crusader 30E. I would like to add Flaperons. Do you know if I can do that with a Gyro? I kind of feel like I might need more then 3 out ports so I can run a lead to both wing servos instead of a Y-lead/wire. Maybe you can give me some insight on this. Thank you.
Yes. Flaperon control will simply appear to be aileron output to the gyro. It won't interfere.
What % of correction rate did you use?
I never had a gyro on my airplanes. Do you have a link for a good one?
Thanks!
Look for a Hobbyeagle A3 Super 4. Motion has them for $30 www.motionrc.com/products/eagle-a3-super-4-airplane-gyro-standard-edition-hea3s4
Does gyros works well with analog servos?
Yes.
Thoughts on the A3 Super 4 vs the A3 Mini? Would they both work equally well with ELRS SBUS?
For an SBUS RX with no PWM pins, you need the A3 S4 otherwise you won't have throttle out. The A3S4 is the only one I'm aware of that can pass 5 channels through: A1/2, E, T, R or A, E1/2, T, R.
@@RCVideoReviews newbi question: pass 5 ch through means that you need something else to power the channel in addition to the gyro mini?
i saw a video using a min and the sbus rx only without anything else....am i missing something?
Is it possible to have flaperons going through a gyro with some edgeTX trickery? Specifically a Byme-A gyro paired with a FS-ia6b reciever. I do know each aileron servo needs to be controlled independently. No y cable.
Probably with a mix. When the gyro is enabled, it will do what it needs to do based on your gyro setup to correct a perturbance. Your radio setup should be independent of those corrections. i.e. If you were to reverse an elevator output, your stick motions would need to be inverted, but the gyro is unaware of that reversal, so if it needs to level pitch, it would do the same thing it always does to correct.
For flaperons, you could create a mix for the two channels. The gyro will continue manipulating those two channels as setup. I don't see a reason this wouldn't work with a simple mix.
Do you STLs for your 3D printed benchtop "proof of concept" model? Love the channel. You have been a ton of help in navigating edge tx. You have caused many light bulb moments followed by what if. Thank you
ruclips.net/user/livepnnZsoIRyGM
Glad the channel has been helpful for you.
@@anastigmat I appreciate your concern for that particular word I used to describe a 3-axis stabilization unit. I felt calling it a gyro was just simpler.
I wanted to add an update. I was able to get flaperons to work when using the Byme-A stabilizer. However I discovered that the Byme-A module offers no stabilization correction through its ch3 pins, its just an uncorrected throttle pass through.