"Too Strong" is demonstrating PERFECT Climbing Guide behaviors: 1.) He is safe, and discusses with his client the actual placement of the sort of gear regular climbers would place n this route. Dave is a 5.12 climber, and he could do the route with just a piece or two without sacrificing safety...he's that good...but he is "guiding" and in that situation it is always best to model safe climbing. 2.) He models perfect movement and opens his client's eyes to the myriad placements for his feet. Jamming, edging, smearing...all come to play, and "Too Strong" clearly defines each possibility. 3.) He shows where resting also becomes a place to consider gear, and though he did make a case for this, it is rather obvious to the client that each gear placement was made from a comfortable stance. MODEL CLIMBING GUIDE BEHAVIOR!!! (Please pass that on to Dave when you see him next>>
As a longtime Gunkie, my first route in JT was Double Cross. I was terrified for the whole upper wider crack where I didn't get much gear as everything I was carrying was on a typical Gunks rack. Great climb.
"Too Strong" got his name from his wrist wrestling days, and he'd go to Peteluma to pull down against some real beasty dudes. On a visit to his home near JT back in the early 90's he gave me a chance to pull against him with a "handicap": He was pulling against a thick-ass truck inner tube, too. I was about as strong as I ever could be back then, touching into the 5.12's out there, but he just eased my fist right down, talking me through the obvious defeat in the same manner he was talkin' pro with the client in this film. "Too Strong" is a living legend out there in his home turf of JT, and he's been pulling hard there for over 30 years.
Some accidents have been from trying to do the start up the seam/ crack to the left of where Dave started. I liked Dave mentioning it takes hexes well. I first did it with just hexes and stoppers. It is an excellent crack to practice placing them. One can even learn on lead by placing cams as well.
My guess the reason this route has the most injuries is the beginning section he did before he got his first protection in. You can slip going on top of that weird bulge thing before you get next to the crack.
It isn't, usually, that they don't get a piece in. It is that they don't get a good piece in and the belayer is out away from the base. This leads to a outward pull and the piece fails. This can be seen over and over again in many of those weekend whipper videos. The answer is whenever doing a long, easy sections to stack pieces when the climbing could lead to a fall and the failure of one piece would lead to serious injury. Even a perfect piece can fail if the carabiner is triaxial loaded or momentary gate opening. Putting in the first piece of DC is also awkward for a beginning leader which makes it even more important to put a good piece in, then pull out a little more, with the confidence of the first piece, and place a second piece with a runner. The first one limits the fall, the second lessens the angle between the belayer and the tension of the falling climber. Plus, providing back up to the first one. Since the failure of the first one is almost guaranteed to get you a helicopter ride. Basic rock craft.
YEAH... BABY..."Too Strong Dave" lookin like you never aged a minute!! My Dad (RIP) really dug that time we hung out at your pad over 20 years ago! Remember when you guided that client next to me at Suicide when I was having some serious "Female" issues? You parked near us all day long, and I'm sure the agenda was: "Let's see how uncomfortable we can make good old Pete." I think that's why I took that one fall in the crux of "Season's End". GREAT TO CLIMB ALONG WITH YOU IN THIS SORT OF CYBER-SPACE WAY. Hope all is well. Do you still arm wrestle those truck inner tubes? Stay strong Amigo!
"Too Strong" is demonstrating PERFECT Climbing Guide behaviors: 1.) He is safe, and discusses with his client the actual placement of the sort of gear regular climbers would place n this route. Dave is a 5.12 climber, and he could do the route with just a piece or two without sacrificing safety...he's that good...but he is "guiding" and in that situation it is always best to model safe climbing. 2.) He models perfect movement and opens his client's eyes to the myriad placements for his feet. Jamming, edging, smearing...all come to play, and "Too Strong" clearly defines each possibility. 3.) He shows where resting also becomes a place to consider gear, and though he did make a case for this, it is rather obvious to the client that each gear placement was made from a comfortable stance. MODEL CLIMBING GUIDE BEHAVIOR!!! (Please pass that on to Dave when you see him next>>
As a longtime Gunkie, my first route in JT was Double Cross. I was terrified for the whole upper wider crack where I didn't get much gear as everything I was carrying was on a typical Gunks rack. Great climb.
"Too Strong" got his name from his wrist wrestling days, and he'd go to Peteluma to pull down against some real beasty dudes. On a visit to his home near JT back in the early 90's he gave me a chance to pull against him with a "handicap": He was pulling against a thick-ass truck inner tube, too. I was about as strong as I ever could be back then, touching into the 5.12's out there, but he just eased my fist right down, talking me through the obvious defeat in the same manner he was talkin' pro with the client in this film. "Too Strong" is a living legend out there in his home turf of JT, and he's been pulling hard there for over 30 years.
Is that on Old Woman? My memory is a little hazy after 40 years. I used to solo The Orphan all the time. Hidden Valley was so beautiful.
“Always a foot in the crack!” ...takes his foot out of the crack 🤣 I love this guy!
Mayville is so rad!!!
A JT classic with a long history of accidents from climbers under estimating the location and degree of difficulty.
Some accidents have been from trying to do the start up the seam/ crack to the left of where Dave started.
I liked Dave mentioning it takes hexes well. I first did it with just hexes and stoppers. It is an excellent crack to practice placing them.
One can even learn on lead by placing cams as well.
Spooky start!
My guess the reason this route has the most injuries is the beginning section he did before he got his first protection in. You can slip going on top of that weird bulge thing before you get next to the crack.
It isn't, usually, that they don't get a piece in. It is that they don't get a good piece in and the belayer is out away from the base. This leads to a outward pull and the piece fails. This can be seen over and over again in many of those weekend whipper videos. The answer is whenever doing a long, easy sections to stack pieces when the climbing could lead to a fall and the failure of one piece would lead to serious injury. Even a perfect piece can fail if the carabiner is triaxial loaded or momentary gate opening. Putting in the first piece of DC is also awkward for a beginning leader which makes it even more important to put a good piece in, then pull out a little more, with the confidence of the first piece, and place a second piece with a runner. The first one limits the fall, the second lessens the angle between the belayer and the tension of the falling climber. Plus, providing back up to the first one. Since the failure of the first one is almost guaranteed to get you a helicopter ride. Basic rock craft.
YEAH... BABY..."Too Strong Dave" lookin like you never aged a minute!! My Dad (RIP) really dug that time we hung out at your pad over 20 years ago! Remember when you guided that client next to me at Suicide when I was having some serious "Female" issues? You parked near us all day long, and I'm sure the agenda was: "Let's see how uncomfortable we can make good old Pete." I think that's why I took that one fall in the crux of "Season's End". GREAT TO CLIMB ALONG WITH YOU IN THIS SORT OF CYBER-SPACE WAY. Hope all is well. Do you still arm wrestle those truck inner tubes? Stay strong Amigo!
i solo this one alot
who is the ATC?
www.rei.com/product/149644/black-diamond-atc-guide-belay-device
And Woody Stark authorized a bolt :)
“Why would you get hurt on this climb.?.” If you don’t know how to place gear.
shouldnt he wear pants so he wouldnt get his knees scratched up falling?
Dude, this is "Too Strong"! Scratching his knees :) Double Cross was his down-climb after soloing harder routes on this formation.
Don't fall/ use good technique by knowing where your knees are.