Great walkthrough but I was watching to see the armature removal and you didn't go that far 😬🙄😔 For anybody looking for the same, there is no need to remove the nut as shown in this video. A firm wiggle and pull the whole armature unit out 😉
Hi Gaz, Thanks for the info about removing the armature with a firm wiggle... hopefully it helps others. You mean removing the armature from the gearbox... yeah, I didn't do that (but I did remove the armature from the motor).
Just had the mosfet you talk about @ 9:00 let out the smoke last night, was cutting through a pipe and the cutting wheel bound up causing it to stop immediately. When I pulled the grinder apart, the mosfet had a big bubble in the center and there was a black mark on the half shell. Pretty disappointing for only 6 months of pretty light use.
Hi Kelly, that is pretty disappointing to hear... don't think it should have done that. Maybe you can buy a replacement speed control? or if its only 6 months old, isn't it still covered under warranty and the service centre can help you our with replacement parts?
Hello Grant, very informative video that I have been searching for. At “13.21” armature removal. I had ruined my tool, because I couldn’t get the armature back in. When I saw you get to that part, I froze .. and wow you saved it. What were the screwdriver sizes you used... thanks in advance.
Hi, There are two sizes of screws / fasteners. There are five T15 Torx screws holding the clamshell together and four T20 Torx screws holding the gearbox to the clamshell. Hope you were able to get your tool repaired. Keep well and safe.
Hi Icyrene... I must apologise, I missed this moment and its probably to late now but anyway... Yes, you do have to unclip / remove all the brushes, then insert the armature and then clip the brushed back in. (I often check for new comments but some still seem to slip through the cracks... I'm sorry).
Awesome! Thank you. The box says the gear box/blade can be rotated degrees by unscrewing the top (silver part), but not to pull it out more than 1/8th of an inch or it must be serviced. Do you know how / why this would be an issue, or am I missing something?
Hi Jack, The motors armature extends into and is retained in the front silver gearbox section (where the crown wheel and pinion meet) so if you unscrew the gearbox and pull it out to far from the plastic housing, the entire armature will come out and as such, the commutator will be pulled away from the brushes. Because the brushes are spring loaded, they will extend into the area where the commutator was running. If you now try push the armature back into place, the commutator will butt up against those 'extended' brushes and wont go back into place. If this happens, you will have to open the tool, unclip all 4 brushes, pull them out... then slide the armature back into place... then clip the 4 brushes back into place... which is why they say it will need to be 'serviced'. If you unscrew the gearbox and don't pull it out more than 1/8th of an inch, just pulling it out enough so that is is able to rotate to the desired position, the brushes will still be held in place by the commutator and all will be good. The gearbox is indexed with the outer case of the motor which is why you have to pull it out just a little bit in order for it to rotate. Hope this makes sense?
@@GrantBurton Thank you for the thorough explanation. It's great to have that option to turn the gearbox. For now, it's fine for my use. I re-read the instructions and they say if you unscrew the box, you should be able to rotate it without lifting it at all. My first time using a grinder, and this worked perfectly.
I’ll have to go try mine again... when I originally rotated it, I needed to lift it slightly to get it to move... maybe there was just a bit of dirt or something stopping it but thank you for pointing that out.
Hi rexhunter, I think its got to do with the design of the motor... I can't remember specifics of what i saw when I opened it but a quick google search hints to a lap wound motor design suited to low voltage and high current applications where greater torque is needed from a motor. Greater current passing through the armature results in greater torque, which will help the grinder not to bog down when cutting or putting the grinder under increased load.
Is there any way to mod the tool so that you can use the lock button to lock the power button when it's activated. So you don't have to constantly press the button when cutting or grinding.
Hi K, that is a great question... I have often needed to use the grinder without having to hold the switch and its super irritating. Both my other corded DeWALT grinders have a lock-on button. I'm not sure if there is a way... I would need to open up the tool again and have a look at look if it could be modded... maybe thats a video i need to look into.
@@GrantBurton It would be great if you could figure out a way to do it. I see a lot of these DeWalt grinders at work places and most people would find having this feature useful. Thanks!
Haha... thats pretty funny... imagine that actually happened and it had to be chased across the road. I must say in all my years I've never dropped a grinder while using it... I have however once plugged one in and the switch was in the on position... had to change my underpants after that... haha
Thinking of This or the DCG413b Brushless - but i Don't like the Handle Shape !!! this Handle looks better to Hold not as FAT as the Brushless one . also Seen a Teardown of the Brushless - CHAOS more Wiring Good Video BTW
After a bit of use, I don't like the DCG 412's handle shape... its not my favourite. The reason is when trying to use the tool with a single hand, the trigger is too far back from the cutting disk, which greatly reduces control. Comparing that to the small corded grinders where the switch is up near the gearbox and your hand grips over the motor... this gives far more control of the tool. Looking at the DCG413's paddle switch and grip, It looks like a person could grip a full hand over the motor and use their last two fingers to activate the switch. I haven't actually tried this which is why I say it looks like a person might be able to use it this way. I say all of this however as much as I know the safest practice is to grip the grinder with two hands at all times, most of us often use these small grinders single handed. I also think the brushless grinder will be more efficient considering power versus runtime.
![TEARDOWN DeWALT DCF 880 20v MAX 1/2" Impact Wrench - Burton Builds S03E05 [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/M6UdqqJm85w/mqdefault.jpg)
That tiny battery spring was the reason why I watched the video. Thanks for making it!!
Hi Alonso, thanks for the comment, happy you found the video helpful.
Yeah, me too, my grinder would not spin, took it apart and clean it and didn't see the battery spring pop out. Thanks very helpful.
Great walkthrough but I was watching to see the armature removal and you didn't go that far 😬🙄😔 For anybody looking for the same, there is no need to remove the nut as shown in this video. A firm wiggle and pull the whole armature unit out 😉
Hi Gaz, Thanks for the info about removing the armature with a firm wiggle... hopefully it helps others.
You mean removing the armature from the gearbox... yeah, I didn't do that (but I did remove the armature from the motor).
Great video, thanks :)
Hi David, thanks very much 😁
Just had the mosfet you talk about @ 9:00 let out the smoke last night, was cutting through a pipe and the cutting wheel bound up causing it to stop immediately. When I pulled the grinder apart, the mosfet had a big bubble in the center and there was a black mark on the half shell. Pretty disappointing for only 6 months of pretty light use.
Hi Kelly, that is pretty disappointing to hear... don't think it should have done that. Maybe you can buy a replacement speed control? or if its only 6 months old, isn't it still covered under warranty and the service centre can help you our with replacement parts?
Hello Grant, very informative video that I have been searching for. At “13.21” armature removal. I had ruined my tool, because I couldn’t get the armature back in. When I saw you get to that part, I froze .. and wow you saved it. What were the screwdriver sizes you used... thanks in advance.
Hi, There are two sizes of screws / fasteners. There are five T15 Torx screws holding the clamshell together and four T20 Torx screws holding the gearbox to the clamshell. Hope you were able to get your tool repaired. Keep well and safe.
Hi Grant, I still cant figure out how to get the armature back in , do I have to remove all the brush's ??
@@GrantBurton Hi Grant, I have to remove the brushes to get the armature back in ?
Hi Icyrene... I must apologise, I missed this moment and its probably to late now but anyway... Yes, you do have to unclip / remove all the brushes, then insert the armature and then clip the brushed back in. (I often check for new comments but some still seem to slip through the cracks... I'm sorry).
Awesome! Thank you. The box says the gear box/blade can be rotated degrees by unscrewing the top (silver part), but not to pull it out more than 1/8th of an inch or it must be serviced. Do you know how / why this would be an issue, or am I missing something?
Hi Jack, The motors armature extends into and is retained in the front silver gearbox section (where the crown wheel and pinion meet) so if you unscrew the gearbox and pull it out to far from the plastic housing, the entire armature will come out and as such, the commutator will be pulled away from the brushes. Because the brushes are spring loaded, they will extend into the area where the commutator was running. If you now try push the armature back into place, the commutator will butt up against those 'extended' brushes and wont go back into place. If this happens, you will have to open the tool, unclip all 4 brushes, pull them out... then slide the armature back into place... then clip the 4 brushes back into place... which is why they say it will need to be 'serviced'.
If you unscrew the gearbox and don't pull it out more than 1/8th of an inch, just pulling it out enough so that is is able to rotate to the desired position, the brushes will still be held in place by the commutator and all will be good. The gearbox is indexed with the outer case of the motor which is why you have to pull it out just a little bit in order for it to rotate.
Hope this makes sense?
@@GrantBurton Thank you for the thorough explanation. It's great to have that option to turn the gearbox. For now, it's fine for my use. I re-read the instructions and they say if you unscrew the box, you should be able to rotate it without lifting it at all. My first time using a grinder, and this worked perfectly.
I’ll have to go try mine again... when I originally rotated it, I needed to lift it slightly to get it to move... maybe there was just a bit of dirt or something stopping it but thank you for pointing that out.
is there any reason there is 4 brushes for this grinder ?
most of the tools i have seen they have 2
Hi rexhunter, I think its got to do with the design of the motor... I can't remember specifics of what i saw when I opened it but a quick google search hints to a lap wound motor design suited to low voltage and high current applications where greater torque is needed from a motor. Greater current passing through the armature results in greater torque, which will help the grinder not to bog down when cutting or putting the grinder under increased load.
just Picked one dcg412B $99.99 CAD
Is there any way to mod the tool so that you can use the lock button to lock the power button when it's activated. So you don't have to constantly press the button when cutting or grinding.
Hi K, that is a great question... I have often needed to use the grinder without having to hold the switch and its super irritating. Both my other corded DeWALT grinders have a lock-on button. I'm not sure if there is a way... I would need to open up the tool again and have a look at look if it could be modded... maybe thats a video i need to look into.
@@GrantBurton It would be great if you could figure out a way to do it. I see a lot of these DeWalt grinders at work places and most people would find having this feature useful. Thanks!
Ha.. A locking trigger is a good way to lose your grinder to oncoming traffic... if you drop it while it's running..
Haha... thats pretty funny... imagine that actually happened and it had to be chased across the road.
I must say in all my years I've never dropped a grinder while using it... I have however once plugged one in and the switch was in the on position... had to change my underpants after that... haha
@@GrantBurton Haha... I know what you mean...
Thinking of This or the DCG413b Brushless - but i Don't like the Handle Shape !!!
this Handle looks better to Hold not as FAT as the Brushless one .
also Seen a Teardown of the Brushless - CHAOS more Wiring
Good Video BTW
After a bit of use, I don't like the DCG 412's handle shape... its not my favourite. The reason is when trying to use the tool with a single hand, the trigger is too far back from the cutting disk, which greatly reduces control. Comparing that to the small corded grinders where the switch is up near the gearbox and your hand grips over the motor... this gives far more control of the tool.
Looking at the DCG413's paddle switch and grip, It looks like a person could grip a full hand over the motor and use their last two fingers to activate the switch. I haven't actually tried this which is why I say it looks like a person might be able to use it this way.
I say all of this however as much as I know the safest practice is to grip the grinder with two hands at all times, most of us often use these small grinders single handed.
I also think the brushless grinder will be more efficient considering power versus runtime.
@@GrantBurton the RPM is 1000 rpm Quicker - Brushless 9000 rpm vs 8000 for the 412- picked up the 412 on Sale $99.99 CAD