Audi S4 B8 & B8.5 3.0t - PCV / Air Oil Separator Replacement DIY (Audi A7, S4, S5, & SQ5)
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- Опубликовано: 25 июл 2024
- ►Audi S4 B8 and B8.5 3.0t engines feature a crankcase ventilation system, commonly referred to as the PCV, crankcase breather, or air/oil separator. If this is failing, you can experience numerous symptoms, and although they can show up at any time, most begin to show around 60,000-80,000 miles. Some symptoms of a failing PCV system on your Audi B8 are more difficult to diagnose than others, with the most common being:
Vacuum Leaks
Illuminated Check Engine Light
Illuminated Oil Pressure Light
Rough Idle
High Oil Consumption
Lean & Misfire Codes
Idle Regulation Codes
Whistling Noise from Engine Cover
Oil Leak From Rear Main Seal
Although Audi doesn't consider the PCV system a regular maintenance system, it's well known that these parts fail regularly. The symptoms are easily diagnosed as other failures; however, the PCV system should always be checked early on in the diagnostic process as it's easy to replace/repair, and the parts are affordable.
Today Cory Calvin is here to show you how you can gain access to your Audi's PCV system and how to replace it, step by step.
Read this DIY on our blog: blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-repla...
Read more Audi DIYs, guides, and features on our blog: blog.fcpeuro.com/tag/audi
Shop Parts Used In This Video Here:
Audi Crankcase Vent Valve - Genuine Audi 06E103547AB - B8.5 S4 ONLY (2013-2016) -
www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-t...
Audi Oil Separator - Genuine Audi VW 06E103547AC -
B8 S4 ONLY (2010-2012) -
www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi...
Audi VW PCV Valve Hose - Genuine Audi VW 06E103213 -
www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi...
Audi VW Intake Manifold Gasket - Elring 079129717D (6) -
www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-i...
Audi VW Coolant/Antifreeze - Genuine VW GA137741GDSP -
www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi...
Audi Supercharger Bleeder Screw Kit - 034Motorsport 034145Z043 -
www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi...
Aluminum Skid Plate - www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi...
Fits These Cars:
Audi A7 Quattro
2013-2015 Audi A7 Quattro
To 10/6/2014
Audi S4
2013-2016 Audi S4
Audi S5
2013-2017 Audi S5
Audi SQ5
2014-2017 Audi SQ5
00:00 - The Parts You Need for this Job
01:28 - What Tools You Need to Replace Your PCV System On A B8.5 S4
02:04 - How To Remove The Air Intake On A B8.5 S4
02:45 - How To Remove Supercharger On A B8.5 S4
09:29 - How To Remove Fuel Lines On A B8.5 S4
09:55 - How To Remove Intake Manifold Flaps On A B8.5 S4
16:23 - How To Remove PCV On A B8.5 S4
17:16 - What To Swap Over From Old PCV
19:00 - How To Install New PCV On A B8.5 S4
22:20 - How To Reinstall Fuel Lines On A B8.5 S4
23:26 - How To Reinstall Intake Manifold Flaps On A B8.5 S4
28:16 - How To Install Intake Manifold Gaskets
28:47 - How To Install The Supercharger On A B8.5 S4
30:06 - How To Fill & Bleed The Cooling System On A B8.5 S4
32:52 - How To Reinstall The Supercharger Belt On A B8.5 S4
33:45 - How To Reinstall The Air Intake On A B8.5 S4
34:12 - Test Start
34:40 - How To Reinstall The Under Tray On A B8.5 S4
34:57 - Conclusion
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When reinstalling your lower intakes, hold the flaps partly open or they will be stick shut and give codes .
And after they are seated, actuate the flaps and make sure they move freely
These great videos separate you from the competition. You have a life long customer for both my VAG vehicles. Keep up the great work.
Just got done doing all of this to my 2012 S4. Very insightful and a GREAT reference guide. Can’t thank you guys/gals enough for these videos, parts selection, quick shipping, and great customer support. This is how a company should be operated.
Our pleasure!
Currently doing this to my s4 😂
@@TheBlackHangerrr hey bro how long did it take you to do it?
Yep would love tonknow what kind of time lime this takes. Im Getting quoted about 13hrs to do this with the thermo and water pump.
@@scottcasey4400 Holy moly, shop i brought it to quoted total price for only PCV replacment for $1800, so it was little over $600 in parts and 1200 in labor ($250/hr)
They kinda gloss over the part at 15:22 where you pull the coolant pipe but it had me stuck for a while. There's two screws on the bracket in the back. The lower one is kind of unreachable but don't mess with that one. Just push the pipe out of the bracket sideways and then push it back and it comes right out :)
Not seeing that bracket but what im reading from others is that pipe is connected to a flexible brakcet/pipe and can be pushed back. Is that accurate ? I think ive spent more time on this pipe than replacing the waterpump and thermostat.
@@aeda84 yeah same that part sucked. It is connected to a flexible piece so you just take the one screw out and slide it out towards the driver side
On mine someone previously replaced the torx with a hex screw. The bracket is bent back enough to get the screw in without going through the bracket. It just runs right through the pipe. A ratcheting box wrench made quick work of it. Really good hack imo.
I've spent an hour trying to get the pipe out. I could remove the T30 at the back just using a T30 on a 5 inch extension. But that pipe just won't come out of the hole up at the front by the thermostat. If anyone has a suggestion, please put it here. Thx.
@@ijdad99 I'm stuck on the same pipe Called it quits for the night and will reevaluate. If I figure it out tomorrow I'll post a reply. Let me know if you succeed.
I started this video thinking it's a sunday morning DIY project. Heck! It'll take me 2 weekends just to gather/buy the tools and parts.
well hopfully after those 2 weekends gathering, you'll find the repair itself easier to knockout on a Sunday
@@fcpeuro any more plans for further 3.0T b8.5 videos ? maybe one of them should be to tackle the timing chain guides😄
It'll take me two weeks just list out the steps, time stamp and tools.
Can you tackle engine wiring harness
I was thinking the same thing. Uhhhh....
Great video nice and calm. I have been working on Mercedes and BMW for 24 years and occasionally I will get a client that will beg me to work on their audi or jag. Your video was helpfull and its nice to see an instructional by a real tech not a back yard boy tearing into a car with no knowlage. A+
Thanks again from Shane at California Mercedes and BMW in Fresno CA.😎 HAPPY MOTORING.
You did a phenomenal job with this video! Keep u the great work. This helped me a ton
Good job on this video. Appreciate the work you put into it.
Great vid!! Can you guys do a Front and rear brake DIY next in the B8.5 ?!
Same process for a 2011 3.2 q5. I had to remove an intake runner as well. Very easy!
Thank you very much for this video!
Refered back a couple of times to find routing etc.
I have 114k miles on my 2014 A7 Prestige and have not changed water pump, PCV Valve, or Thermostat! None are exhibiting problems, but after that many miles in hot AZ, I am on borrowed time. I'm going to use this great video and the one for thermostat/water pump to tackle this weekend. I can't thank you enough for the great vids! Thanks also for the comments about the coolant pipe at 15:22
Thanks guys! Very informative. Is there a comparison between revisions H and AB?
Love your 3.0t series of videos, very good instructions and detail. My PCV went bad and my symptoms were high vacuum on oil cap while running, leaking seals, and rough idle. all of those went away after pcv replacement. It's a good idea to do all of these maintenance parts at once because they are all under the supercharger.
Thank you for this informative Video, I'm about to order my parts for my Audi A7 today.
Thank you. Doing this on my 2015 q7. I need to check out more of your videos. You have one on an intake cleaner to remove carbon build up on back of valves??
Great video! I've been waiting for this one.
Thank You ! Awesome tutorial I have a 2011 Audi Q7 Premium and was able to follow your instructions
Awesome, Matthew!
Very good congratulations for your professionalism, Thank you👍
For anyone stuck at 15:00, what I did was grab a regular Allen key set and find one that fit the T30 well enough to crack the torque on the bolt. After that I was able to unthread it by hand or just using a T30 screwdriver bit with my hand. Good luck all!
yes
U are a lifesaver just about gave up on that bolt haha
@@jalapep503 :) your welcome
I used a T30 bit and a 1/4" fine tooth ratcheting box end wrench. Just enough clearance to get in there and get it out. Now I am stuck on removing the damn coolant pipe!
@@mosinnagant76how did you get the coolant pipe out, I’ve been stuck on it for like 4 hours
I'm following your process on my A7 and I must say, you have impaccable skill and patients, great job my friend🙂!
just curious on how that is going. Currently looking to do it on my 2012.
Just did this job on my 2016 SQ5, thanks for this detailed video! The only snafu I had was in how to put back the fuel injector seals, I mistakenly thought they went on top of the injector rather than just underneath its top lip, so I had a but of a fuel spray when I tested :) I went and got new 3 seal kits and replaced the seals on the 3 injectors on the passenger side, no issues after that.
I know your pain rofl but double since I had both off from also scrapping carbon off the valves
Looking at the blueprints for the PCV and oil separator and thinking about the FSI carbon build up problems. Wouldn't be just easiest to plug the intake and blower ports for this whole squid thing and let the nonreturn PCV line just hanging/ideally connecting it to longer hose and letting it ventilating on the road.....? would that be possible? Once it would do blasting after the engine should be good fer ever, right?
Do not forget to make sure u put the injector O rings back mine fell off when I took the IM valve off and didn’t know till I found it in the pcv valley area glad I caught that before reasembly
always check each gasket and mating area :p
Excellent video tutorial.
Hi FCP if coolant spills when you remove the pcv, does that mean you have to change the oil too? As that coolant could mix with the oil?
Thank you guys for this vid it helped me out so much keep up the the great work
Glad to hear it!
That t-30 in the adjustable was a brave move 🧐 👍🏻👍🏻
Maybe a flexible attachment to the impact gun would elevate this issue in the future
It's easy to get to using a normal T30 bit on a 5 inch extension. No worries about dropping a tool into the abyss.
Would strongly recommend laying a shop towel over, or gently stuffing parts of a shop towel into the intake ports.
Gorilla tape works well for that.
I was thinking the same after he mentioned not letting anything fall in them.
Hey fcp I have a question! I see on this car there is a cold air intake like I have on mine, do you have any suggestions for what I should do for my secondary air hose?
GOD DAMN! I’m having that vaccum problem at the moment, didn’t realize I needed to change it that soon
Great video I was able to replace mine with this video.
Replaced Pcv with aftermarket(autozone) one,no more whistle noise,but strong vacuum still there!
is there any recommendations for flushing the coolant out of the oil system other than just putting fresh oil in it? Would a product like motor flush be a good solution?
Great video! Definitely taking it to the Audi service center. Not something I have time to do.
be ready to fork out $1700.00...that is what they quoted me on my 2017 Q7 3.0t
Could have it done at a local small audi specialist shop!
Any help is appreciated i replaced my PCV due to coolant in my supercharger valley after installation I did an oil change I drained half a cup of clean coolant, oil is just black not mixed with coolant oil cap looks clean no milkshake at all I cough the issues early i pressurized the cooling system for 30 min only dropped half a psi is coolant in oil one of the pcv symptoms or is it a blown head gasket
Thanks
Ideally you should recommend before doing this job to remove the fuse for the fuel pump and start the car and let it die or let it crank for a little while longer. That way the fuel lines can have it's pressure reduced from the dangerous high pressure it might be primed at. Then you won't have the issue of the line being primed by opening the door.
I saw this comment and followed your advice. Still leaked some fuel when pulling off the manifolds and the fuel lines but didn't seem to be as much fuel as in this video
@@mosinnagant76 yes should be drastically reduced, a shop towerl around to soak up the residual fuel is also wise. Further, as you're backing off the fuel lines, back it off slowly so the higher pressure can slowly dissipate vs being flung out everywhere causing vapour and possibility of ignition of fuel.
got any moe info on the coolant vacuum tool you used? Thanks
hello friend - I have a 2010 s4 full apr catalogue . I just hit 70k miles and today i started the car and the start up was rough as well as the idle until it got warm. at a stop sign there was a bad smell and a very light amount of grey smoke coming from the exhaust. any ideas? no cel and car didnt overheat.
So is there any way of putting a catch can on the b8.5? to help reduce the carbon build up?
Great video
Great video forgot to mention on both sides injector low intake you have to open by hand the flaps before you seat both sides injectors or you will get a code for intake manifold stuck open ,
Other from that great video .👍🏽✅
very important step right here. The flaps get stuck on the baffles if you dont remember when reinstalling. I get to remove the lower intakes again.
@@CallSignWireless ya I didn’t get this far in the video then I started throwing stuff back together and I’m experiencing the same issue but I have to start from scratch
If it's like the 3.2, not only do you have to hold the flaps open a bit, but after placing the manifold back on you need to hold the manifold down while tightening some screws. Once screwed down, ensure the flaps move manually before final torquing.
What happens if you don’t push down flaps? Just get code or?
He did mention it at 23:50.
Just ordered the kit…about to do it once it arrives, hopefully my car makes it til then 😅
Looks like you guys didn't include footage on reinstalling the hoses underneath? 😂 hope ppl have common sense on that one. Great videos! Really helped clear things up for me.
What is the part number for the coolant pipe O-ring? Also on a 2013 do the injectors need to be removed? Thanks
I have a 2015 s5 3.0tfsi which needs an intake manifold potential air leak identified with engine management light. Quoted 4.5 hours of labour just to strip and investigate. Will it really take this long? Or is the dealer pulling a fast one?
Great job Tech!!!
Thank you! Cheers!
I need to change oil filter housing on Q5 3.0t. Will I need to take out the supercharger? Or in q5, do I have enough space?
Thank you very much for this video, I have an Audi Sq5 with the same issue, going to try it myself.
Btw I live in Amsterdam otherwise I would have ordered it at FCP :)
We ordered the full kit from FCP, followed this video step by step and have code P2006 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed Bank 1. Now we get to tear it all back down and do it over again.
my pcv and cats went at the same time on my b8. ive always wondered if my pcv went first and i didnt notice and driving with it caused the cats to melt
If I’m putting an engine from 2013 S4 into 2011 S4 B8 - do I need the PCV valve with a part number for 2011 S4 (because ECM is programmed for that) or I do need the one for 2013 S4 B8.5?
Very good job, thanks
Our pleasure Carlos
FCP euro are there any differences with the A6 C7 and B8.5 (your title) in terms of 3.0t engine? How long is the job to do on this particular model, PM service?
How did you get that coolant return pipe off? I am stuck here....
Loved the explanation. I just changed the crankcase valve on my 2017 Audi Q7 3.0t. After starting up the engine lite came on and a P2014 code came up. Any recommendations? Thanks
I know this is really late, but for anyone reading later... This is the standard code saying that the intake vanes under the intake manifold are not moving when told to. If you removed the intakes
(like if doing carbon removal) then when you reinstalled them they got caught and won't move. But if you followed the video and didn't remove them, then my guess is maybe you missed attaching the vacuum hose to one side or the other. Those vanes are moved by little vacuum powered motors. On the plus side, if that happened then they should be ready to see and reinstall without taking anything off.
Ugh. I cracked a PCV breather hose changing valve cover gaskets due to an oil leak. I figure since I have to pull the supercharger to get to the hose that I might as well do the PCV (2013 car), but now I'm not sure. Still, great video. Thank you for sharing.
u are that best thansk for this video thanks for help
Is it possible for the pcv to send coolant in one cylinder or would it be all cylinder ?
Thank you for the video, the FCP videos are the best! I didn't hear any mention of replacing the crankcase breather hose while in there. Had a shop do the PCV job, and months later the car is throwing Error Code 20136 - PCV Valve Malfunction in VCDS although there is no check engine light on. The little research I've done seems to point towards the crankcase breather hose, meaning it all has to be disassembled again. Any insight on this? Thanks!
I have the Audi A4 B8 TFSI 2010 with the black top PCV. Can I use the upgraded white top PCV?
Thank you so much ❤
Do I have to change oil after replacement pcv valve? I have read on internet, that there is possible that druing replacement the water may mix with oil ?
Well I replaced the PCV valve but it still has high vacuum. A post on Audizine said that the PCV house should be replaced. I looked at FCP and there are 2. Any idea how I can test which one is bad? Or is one prone to failing? I'm going on a big trip soon and need to fix it. Thx
Really great tutorial but have a few complaints (maybe the B8.5 is different). There is one more electrical plug below the MAF sensor and two more vacuum lines attached to that plug. I spent 45 minutes wondering why the supercharger would not lift off!!!
If FCP is still reading these posts, I have a question. I replaced the PCV valve at the start of 2022 due to coolant leaking into the engine valley (not from water pump or thermostat which I had replaced earlier). By the end of 2022, I checked the suction of the oil filler cap due to code P052E00 and the suction was very high. I returned the part in warranty and replaced it to find no difference. Doing some research, I found that I should have also replaced the crankcase breather hose. So I then replaced that. I also replaced the connector pipe between the supercharger and the PCV valve as well as the gaskets between the supercharger and the intake guide valve housing. It's still throwing that code. I thought that these were the only parts causing that code. If I hook a clamp up to the oil filler cap and attach a luggage scale, it shows about 5 pounds force to break it free, which I read is on the high side.
Does something have to get coded at the dealer for a new PCV valve? I thought it was all strictly mechanical.
One other question... at 4:17 in the video you mention removing the connector to the Hose Evap. Well mine were on really tightly due to that hose degrading over time so I removed it at the little black canister that the house connects to. Unfortunately I broke the end off of it. I taped it all up and it drove but I'd like to replace it but strangely Audi doesn't show that part in their schematics. Do you know what part that is and does FCP sell it and or the hose itself? Is it hollow or did something maybe fall out when I broke it? Like if it's a check valve.
Thx. BTW, this video is great. I can now do this job practically blindfolded.
Have a question . I have a A6 3.0ltr , just did the PCV replacement five months ago for oil consumption. Now the oil consumption has gone back up to the levels of the old PCV. Audi says my mechanic didn't do the ECM update and the new PCV isn't functioning correctly . My mechanic says the update doesn't do anything and I'm wasting money doing the update . Any thoughts as I don't want to go back to the mechanic and state the part was incorrectly installed ?????
Is this pct valve the same for Audi Q5 3.2 engine or different pvc. Valve
Nice job bro. Do you have to have a gasket underneath?
Can a bad pcv cause an oil leak that is significant or possibly the oil valley pan maybe cracked? Have a leak but seems like it coming from inside engine but cant tell where. Was told it could be one of these 2 parts.
Will a bad pcv unit cause coolant to mix with oil
Is it possible to replace directly the pcv valve and didnt touch original oil separator?
@FCP Euro I bought your Ultimate Breather Kit, which comes with everything I need to change everything under the supercharger at once. I'm in the middle of reassembly on my 2014 S4. The engine crankcase breather hose is different, as I guess Audi added an electronic check valve where your plastic one is. Do you have a feasible workaround for this? The molded tubing is not coming off of the barbed fitting at the check valve, or I'd just swap hoses. The one on my check valve is cracked, and not reusable.I literally can make no further progress, so if anyone else reads this and has dealt with the issue, please advise. Thanks so much.
Any chance you guys can do a video on installing a blind spot monitor system (mirrors and radars), is what Audi calls Side-Assist, on a car that comes without one?
You would need to explore aftermarket option for that one
Cory/FCP! Thank you for the video. I had my customer order all parts for this job from you all. I've just completed it, about to bleed the coolant system. I've seen one guy crack the bleeders, and heater hose. Is that necessary with a vac bleed?
Glad it helped! If you are using a vacuum bleeder you will want the rest of the system completely closed off so it can hold vacuum.
Is there a part number for the cold air intake on this vehicle? I realize it's an older vid, but figured I'd ask.
I have a Porsche hybrid with same engine I get the fault p2279 intake air system leak do I need to change the pvc or does the pvc have normally different fault code
very good video nice work 👍🏻 i have a question please what is the name of the pipe in the minute 15:40 or what is the part number
The work is not easy. 5 hours to uninstall. No breaks, with assistance of good lights with all necessary tools handy.Expecting 3 hours to put back everything together. Things I learned /did other than the video
2015 Q5 S ( q5 has more room in the engine bay to work with)
1. Took out fuse for fuel pump (2nd row 25amp driver side box)
2. Drained coolant before anything else
3. Someone pointed out 15:22 mark . Another hose needs to come out to access the single screw on metal bracket to remove plastic pipe
4. Should not have removed screws from right side injectors assembly
Be patient. It all works out. Saved myself 2000 dollars. 🎊
Im doing the pcv upgrade and a walnut blast while theyre in there. costs 2k here in sweden though.
You guys are the master! I have done the same but i forgot to put back the cover at 28:48 ( between the pcv valve and supercharger) is it okay or should i put it back .. please advice
For anyone else wondering this, that black cover is just for sound deadening and is not needed at all. It will make your supercharger a little louder though.
00:32 sec what's that o ring part number, or does it come with the waterpump kit, i got a 2013 b8.5
can you make a video change Oil seperator by audi s6/s7 rs6/rs7
4.0tfsi
If I’m getting a code: P0456 “very small leak detected”
Would this potentially be the PCV? If not, what could be the potential issue? And what is the severity of this issue?
what is the labor time for this job?
Last comment haha maybe. I recommend replacing the gasket (ELRING 236060) that connects the oil filter canister to the engine when you do the PCV. Mine was leaking a LOT of oil. But buckle up its annoying to do.
Another great video! I will be doing this at the same time I do my carbon cleaning. Can you post a link to the O-ring for the coolant pipe shown at 20:30?
while you are there I highly suggest replacing your oil check valves which are under the pcv. Only 60$ each and eliminate the possibility of startup rattles on all 3.0t's. They are only installed from factory on the b8 s4's but they will fit all other 3.0t's.
@@Mikeeg0607 are u sire thats the right one ? The one from number you provided looks littlebit diffrent ?
@@quattro4944 thanks for the reminder, I just deleted my post.That was not the correct part number. I ended up not replacing the thermostat and rebuilding the pcv instead of replacing the whole thing when I did my carbon cleaning.
So some advice and explanations ideally someone will pin this: 1. buy some sythetic grease (permatex) for gasket lube, buy the narrowest bit holder you can for a t30, buy 6 or at least 3 injector gasket sets (with green plastic stopper, mine were brittle af) and o-ring yes theyre 50 bucks - but you own a high end worth it sports car its okay. Also make sure you have a torque wrench that goes down to 9 ft/lbs or your regional equivalent, a really good set of hose picks (vim are good) and a nice small to large assortment of pry bars (mine are the 3 set from Craftsman)
2. If you have a stock airbox then you may have to remove the "snorkle" between the air box and front trim using the 2 body trim clips then take that plastic piece out so you can take the belt off (it makes room for your long wrench). Dont do what I did and pry the wide plastic part off -.- which broke them. you can reach under them from the sides and pop the middle up and out releasing the wide trim bits. Off to my guys for 2 trim bits.
3. dont try and pull the tab on the position sensor just use 2 picks and pull the 3 parts of the tab off the connector so it can slip off dont bother with the grey locking tab, slide your pick between the plug and the 2 black and 1 grey tabs then move them away from the connector while pushing down on the head of the connectors lip - wont break the grey tab like i did but came right off (this works brilliantly for both flapper bodies). Also for those grey tab pull and pinch connectors, sometimes they just get stuck so I wedge a pick tip between the body of the connector and the bottom of the grey tab on the front of the connector which is usually enough to unstick it.
4. Also those flapper assemblies are hard as fuck to get off just disconnect like he did here and pull up and wiggle, lots of wiggling I also GENTLY pried on it after much sweat tears and swearing pried from the valve cover side like barely and in mulitple spots - always be wiggling.
5. vaccum your intake and then cover and keep covered as often as possible
6. you can just remove the air hoses that are attached to the PCV unit from the heads really easily so you can reduce the chance of breakage
7. For that FUCKING coolant pipe (lol, it is a good design though once on wont come out) over the Valve body make a thin metal shim, twist the pipe to slip the shim between the moulded bolt hole and connector bracket then with a towel around the pipe near the block side gently put a pair of pliers either vice or regular (no needle nose) around the bend down and with a pry bar braced against the metal block at an angle pry against the pliers - this should be enough to pop off the coolant pipe so that you can manually push it back (basically like cracking any bolt, once the hard bit is done you can do it manually).
8. When inserting the flapper valve back on make sure the gaskets are lubed with syn grease (permatex is fine) and make sure they're on the nozzles to your injectors otherwise you'll have a bad time. Ideally you'd take other flapper body off and replace those gaskets as well as the passenger side sure they're 50 bucks a piece but piece of mind right. Also he quickly mentions it but it needs repeating MAKE SURE YOUR FLAPS ARE FULLY OPEN WHEN PUSHING THE BODY DOWN and that when the flapper body is down that you can see the metal baffle in each intake that the flap rests against. if unsure try actuating the flaps if they do not go down then you have inserted incorrectly and you'll throw codes along with power issues.
9. If you have a fuel leak after testing by opening the door it will not do it again (or at least mine didn't) I talked to my shop and disconnecting and reconnecting the batter MIGHT work but as a VAG auto owner I have a rosstech aka VCDS so just went into the engine module and hunted around looking for a fuel pump test or in my case a "fuel pump electronics test" you turn it on and it primes continously so make sure you stay close to turn it off because you have to turn it off manually in VCDS
10. lube your air intake gaskets lightly
11. make sure that your double ended vaccume hose the U shaped one is up and to the side so it can come around the back of the super charger
12. I found it really easy to do the coolant hoses when the bracket at the front was attached so kinda get the ones on the super charger aligned then put the bolt through the bracket and align it with the bolt then tighten - easy peasy that way.
13. def use a vaccume bleeder for the coolant super easy and you can check for leaks. Schwaben @ ECSTUNING makes a decent one for 75ish USD that works with an air compressor or hand pump
14. when doing the belt grab a pry bar or two (I have a 3 set of craftsman that are perfect). Use one to put light tension on the loose end by running through it across the rad and block (its not tight just keeps it from dangling so you can use the longer one to nudge the belt back onto pulleys (worked seamlessly). Then use the short one to hold the belt if you dont have a long ratcheting wrench (i didn't) so I held the belt it its barely on position using that pry bar and repositioned the wrench on the tensioner to get the needed amount of slack to gently use the wide pry bar end to work the edges over the pulley - worked really well.
15. before starting make sure to recant the litany to the Omnissiah and offer praise to it's machine spirit (if you know you know haha)
Doing this for the second time this year. The PCV valve seems to have failed. Ugh.
This time I bought the special 16mm tensioner tool from Harbor Freight for $20. Took no time at all, and I have an my knuckle skin. The first time took over 30 minutes, and my arms were all hacked up and most knuckle skin was gone. Definitely worth the twenty bucks.
I do wish there was more filming of the tubes around the "neck" end of the PCV valve at the firewall end of the PCV valve. I think I may have incorrectly put a line under it that should have gone over it. I'll know soon enough. That was the only trouble area during attempt number one, other than the tensioner tool.
Thanks for the feedback, and great notes.
With my supercharger off, what other replacements can I do?
Is this pcv make coolant leak?
Is this the same for the 2010 A6 Quattro supercharger 3.0
Why do you have to undo the two coolant lines underneath the car? Is that not counterintuitive?
Would you recommend disconnecting the battery so the fuel pump doesn't run when the door is open?
Excellent video!!! Thanks very much. Can the fuel rail line be reused or does it have to be replaced? Any issues with leaks if it is reused?
the fuel rail is built into the "flapper body" so yes you should reuse it unless you broke it or is damaged prior. I would give you the advice as a VW enthusiast gave to me: turn the flapper over and make sure your gaskets aren't stuck in the ports because they most likely are. 2nd probably should replace the injector o-rings and plastic brace (green bit in the injector seal kit) 3rd is get some permatex synthetic lube and lube the o-ring making sure its on the injector under the lip
How similar is this to a 2014 Audi A6 3.0t? Aren’t they the same engine?
really wish you would have said something about taking the headlights out or being very careful not to break the very fragile tabs on the headlights when putting the car in the service position . i broke several trying to get a little more room. i was told afterward from a tech that you always take the headlights out when putting in service position.
Also at the end of the video I didn't see you reinstall the under hoses at 8:58 before you fired up the engine.
Hi what is part number for O-Ring PLASTIC COOLANT PIPE pls?
Is this pretty much the same procedure for the 2012 A6 3.0T?