New Battery and Mounting Bracket - 1966 Mustang
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- This is another super easy upgrade to do on our classic Mustangs. Replacing the battery is super easy, but it needs to be secured and that's why we replace the mounting plate the battery sits on and add a securing strap too.
Battery Tray: CJPony Parts, part # BT9
Battery Hold Down Kit: CJPony Parts, part # BTC3K
The correct Battery for the Classic Mustang = Group 24F
The car is a 1966 Mustang Coupe with a factory V8 and 4 speed transmission.
Shot with GoPro Hero 8 with the Media Mod, edited on Davinci Resolve 16.
Credit for the music in the video:
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Epidemic Sound
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#Mustang
#1966
The blue and white is as beautiful as ever!
Thanks!
Just did this a few weeks back. Much more at ease knowing its not gonna fly out
It's one of those things that's on the list and I hate to leave it until the end.
What a beautiful site!!! That car is so gorgeous❤🔥
We agree!
Rick Caldwell good video
Thanks!
I know that this is an older video but I just came across it, I like all your videos on how to do things on your 66 I just bought a 66 289 coup and I am doing the battery tray upgrade as my first project as my tray is eaten away by battery acid. I noticed that you are missing the battery shield that bolts to the inner fender by the positive side to prevent an accidental positive to chassis mishap. I see that you have the 4 mounting holes for the shield, you might want to pick on up. I wanted to know what length of positive cable that you are running, I like the way that you noughted it.
Thanks for the heads up on the battery tray thing, however, I don't have the coupe anymore, I sold a few years back. :)
Thanks for the quick response ,keep the great videos coming. I can use all the Mustang information I can get.@@AndyKruseChannel
Andy, was following this video install; everything went back except forward bolt in the bumper bracket. Had I known it would be an issue to line up I might not have taken it out as you did about 3:18 mark.
At 5:44 you referenced ‘putting the bolts back in the bumper we took out’ but I didn’t see that done in the video. I’m thinking that is what is creating the problem re: the bumper bracket not wanting to line up.
@@graesson I believe those first two bolts I took out at the 3:18 mark can be tricky if the nut in the frame is not lined up correctly. You are correct, it looks like I didn't put that part in video where I install those bolts back in. I do recall struggling with them, but it was because the nut in the frame wasn't cooperating. I remember trying to get to that bolt for the tray behind the bumper bracket, but I just couldn't make it happen, that's why I had to take the bumper bolts out.
I've got a '66 coming badged up like a GT350, same color yours 302 380 hp, so got lots stuff I, adding like yours, love watching work on it and can relate, I'm best wrench turner and mess up new parts like you, sorry, but I'm your clone
It’s always great to hear about other people’s cars, and the 380HP sounds fun!
Like I was watching you do the battery holder I’m like oh no he’s got another problem it’s like that’s exactly me it’s like every time it looks like something simple it’s like give me a break after break something again or cut myself and like I said I’m waiting on the car it’s going to be shipped next week the person who owned it before or the dealership that owned it before have done something to make the 302 380 or 390 I don’t know exactly what because it’s got stock manifold headers self but I’ve got a bunch of Shelby stuff ordered sequential lights the center consul from CJ pony looks great that I’m getting Thanks for posting how tall are you because I was saw you sitting in the car I hope I’m not all bunched up like that but a friend of mine in high school was 6’4”and he used to have a 65 convertible used to ride around in
@@jatalberg That tray was a pain to remove, thankfully I can carefully edit the video to make it look as easy as it's supposed to be.
Only 6 foot, plenty of clearance in the car. It's a good thing these seats essentially sit on the floor or I might have a problem fitting. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Oh thank you yes I’m 6 foot like I said my buddy had one back in high school which he actually stole and it’s all original he was going to sell to me for 15,000 free shipping but I wanted to say other one I didn’t want to stock mustang needs a little bit of work but the 14 inch steering wheel helped with the clearance thanks
Noticed the QuickJack system hanging on the wall there. Enjoy that, or more trouble than it's worth?
Does it work with the Mustang well?
It's great if you are working the front half or back half of the car. If you have to work in the middle, it can be a pain. You cannot enter from the side, you have to come in from the end. Also, more specifically to my '66, the frame rails are more inboard than lifting points of most cars. This causes a problem as the Quickjacks have to sit inboard more, therefore leaving less room in between them. For example, replacing the output shaft seal on the trans is more difficult because of the available room. In that scenario someone is better off using jack stands so they can access the trans area more easily.
I've had them for a few years now and they have come in handy quite a few times. They offer roughly 21" of ground clearance, which is quite a bit for most work needed to be done under the car. They take a few minutes to setup (positioning) but are a decent alternative for those that don't have room for a lift. I bought them when they were on sale for $1k, which is about as much as I would pay for something like this.
@@AndyKruseChannel I was thinking about getting one for my uses (including my '68 Mustang), but they seem to have a love it or hate it reputation online.
I did see that they make pinch weld blocks for them too, but hard to find anyone who's really using that on classic Mustangs to get a real evaluation from!
Where did you get your battery tray and hold down? I have the tray to use with the later model hold down, but that's it.
CJ Pony Parts. I try to always put the part numbers and places where I purchased the parts in the description for the video. :)
So recently i just inherited my grandpas 65 mustang and I need to change the battery but there is no marking on the battery for positive and negative and both the cables are black, how do I know which side is which
Congrats on the new addition, welcome to the club!
One of the cables will go from the battery to the starter solenoid mounted on the passenger inner fender skirt (between the battery and the shock tower). That cable is your positive cable. In the thumbnail for this video, you'll see the red cable on my car going to that solenoid, that's the device you are looking for. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thank you!! Found out afterwards that the positive and negative markings were hidden under the cables
what car battery did you use?
Interstate, 24F class battery, 700 CCA. :)
My battery is new but the tray is rusted... I'll change it once I send the car to paint
Sounds good. What color are you going to paint the car?
@@AndyKruseChannel the car is silver blue but I'm going to paint in dark blue with white stripes.
I'll eventually feature it in my channel
@@XSpt1 Dark blue is going to look great!
@ 4:51 Deez nuts
Ha, it almost sounds like I said that. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Haha yeah, sorry couldn't resist. I'm changing out my old rusted battery tray on my 66. Greatly appreciate your videos.
Moet je hem niet spuiten
Spray what?
De batterij steun beschermen tegen roest
@@franswijnands4022 The new battery tray comes with a black paint coat, so it's protected from rusting. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel mooi ben erg jaloers op je wagen hier in Holland erg duur
@@franswijnands4022 Thanks! They're getting expensive here too. :)