Probably the single most important bit of advice in this video for me personally: “Make it look like crap. That’s okay.” I need to get over my perfectionist tendencies and learn that there is a process, and not all steps are pretty. Once I can get that, I will try taking on NMM.
Cloth is always something I struggle with, because the big flat areas that I want to insert contrast into is hard to properly blend. Yay for this video!
Thanks Vince. Always good to hear that message of ‘don’t worry’ when it comes to that messy stage of mapping out the values. I often get stuck on fixing it as I go
V.V. - I can't thank you enough for showing this color value portion. Heavy layer stokes and how to blend them back in. Great example for me to follow!
Awesome! Really handy this popping up as I have four cloaks to work on and I seriously need some wet blending experience. Thanks Vince. That is a BIG brush!
Vince, I'd love to see a video where you tackle punching up your painting on a model that doesn't lend itself to a loft of normal techniques. Battletech models, for instance, don't really work very well with the usual methods I employ. Speed/contrast/express paints don't work well over broad flat panels, washes can tend to leave tide marks, there's very little that's presented as round so blending can be awkward. Additionally, the 6mm scale on these can be difficult to imagine, we don't see things in our lives this size that are dynamic so there's little intuition in tackling how light plays on them. Honestly, I end up layering and edge highlighting most of the time or employing drybrush stippling and actual drybrushing for basecoating. I'd really appreciate seeing how you handle it.
Well, you'll be waiting a while on that sort of thing. I certainly will tackle robits, I love painting them. That being said, 28mm is as small as I go. I don't like smaller scales and though I have a deep and abiding love for Battletech, I hate the models of those mechs. I painted one many years back and swore I would never do it again. If they werein 28mm, I would paint them like crazy.
@@VinceVenturella well, I've seen it done but an Atlas printed at 28mm is a little smaller than a small titan. I do believe you might know some people with access to such things.
@@parallaxgames Yes, the issue is, all the sculpts that are available for 3-D prints aren't the versions I want. I am very picky, you mentioned the Atlas (an all time banger for sure) and I want the original AS7-D, star league era model. Not the more current redesign. Same thing is true for most. Most of the versions you see for print are post-clan invasion, when what I really want is a star league era or at latest 3025 era set of designs to print (technically, the AS7-D is the 3025 variant, but it hadn't changed much since Star League era as far as the house models go).
Vince i love this specific videos. Im struggling to do this, always looking so flat... making all the mistakes you talked-about. Beautiful "fabric". Thank you so much!
Is it just me or is there a lot of Frazetta in the color schemes of things like this thumbnail and the Rethinking Skin video? And that is an incredibly high compliment from me.
Yay for the fix! Great timing for the video as i got a keeper of secrets waiting to be painted! Also a sigvald wich will be my first time nmm challange to myself
I still remember and re-watch your wet blending video in which you paint a green cloak on a bust. And I still can not achieve that smoothness. I see this is a similar technique. But I'd like to see it applied to a small, gaming size mini.
1. For the wet blending portion would you it be useful to use retarder? 2. For the glazing portion would it better to use a thinner needle or a thicker one? I typically use a 0.7 needle in badger. The times I have really thinned down the paint, it does not come out as an even layer. So I was not sure, where my mistake is.
Sure, though you don’t want much, it’s better to work with thicker paint and rely on that to prevent drying. You generally want a smaller needle, so you have more control of placement, but something like a .3 will work. One of the keys is in trigger control and an even 18 or less PSI. It’s a time and practice thing, but you can do it!
Hi Vince. I really struggle with cloaks so this was really helpful. On the unifying stage, could you use Contrast paints? Sacrificing some quality for speed if you’re painting a unit? Thanks in advance
So I wouldn’t, unless they’re going through the airbrush, then they’re fine. The chemistry of contrast paints means when applied by brush, they are not going to be an even application, and that’s what you want.
I remember seeing a video where Vince was paint a black cloak and made it look like satin by adding light purples and ice yellow. Does anyone remember which video that is?
Great Video, as always. Sponde or later, I will have to try wet blending, even though it scares me a lot, I have been using glazing all my hobby life. In other news, new Epic was announced. Do you plan to make a video with tips for painting small scale models, or is it just primer (maybe Zenithal?) and contrast?
I seriously love that blue on the frontside of the cloak - any chance you could talk about the blues you used? I struggle trying to get that hue and saturation level with mine at times so I would love some guidance. Also I might just check out Mindworks - that model is fantastic esp. for a Slaanesh demon proxy I would think - might need some work but
When you are using such thin paint consistency in the airbrush, how do you avoid causing spidering issues with the paint spreading around after its sprayed?
Very careful trigger control. Basically, you want just a little bit of air, it's really just practice (which isn't the most helpful answer), but you can lower the pressure in the beginning to assist.
Vince, I've recently come across your videos and you have in particular made me confident to pick up my airbrush again. I'm doing a lot of ghosts and cloaks at the moment so this video was great. Question: at the end when you glazed, did you only use the initial base purple to glaze the whole lot? Or did you glaze in several colors?
Amazing video! I am trying something similar but for a black cloack and I am having troubles with it trying to not make it read as grey...I tried to wet bled just the ridges from black straight to a hued dark grey but too stark and hard to blend smoothly without turning too much of the surface away from looking black. Would you try with oils or do yout instructions still apply and I just neet to geet the swoops right? Just trying to figure out whether I should get different acrylics (I am using VMC black and AK ash grey for the first blends) or go straight to oils
Yes, depending on the black cloak, it can come all the way up to white (if it's satin or a silk cloak or something), the key is the right volumes and the balance (hitting that 50-60% number is critical).
I've got pretty good at painting cloaks, they are usually the best part of any miniature I paint. For some reason I can't work out, I can succesfully use mmost techniques on a cloak but as soon as I try them on other areas, they fall apart quickly.
Just out of curiosity: did you have to record the audio anew, or were you able to retrieve the missing part? As always, excellent stuff, Vince! Cheers from Brazil
Hello, I have been a scale modeller of military vehicles mostly for around 30 years on and off, nothing serious just an escape really. I have been watching your videos and you have inspired me to try and push my skills that bit further with figures. Can you tell me where is the best place to get figures and where to start. Many Thanks.
Boy, that's a big question, I mean the list is near limitless, games are your first place, board games you think are cool or warhammer. If you're talking about display figures, then you're talking about a fairly distrbuted set of options, Big Child Creatives, Journeyman Miniatures, Mind Work games and so on are all excellent display figure producers.
Other channels get me excited for their projects, your channel gets me excited *to paint.*
Indeed
“Make it look like crap”
Finally I’ve found something I can accomplish!
Nothing to say, just wanted to feed the algorithm so ppl know the audio's fixed.
Thank you!! I was waiting to see if it would get fixed and this video popped back up in my timeline
Probably the single most important bit of advice in this video for me personally: “Make it look like crap. That’s okay.” I need to get over my perfectionist tendencies and learn that there is a process, and not all steps are pretty. Once I can get that, I will try taking on NMM.
Cloth is always something I struggle with, because the big flat areas that I want to insert contrast into is hard to properly blend. Yay for this video!
Thanks for the quick fix in the audio 👍
Thanks for the reupload, perfect timing for the tips as im working on a flowing cloth right now so its a great help!
I love the subtle effect you accomplished with the V of the flat section.
Always struggled with cloaks. Probably the best video on the subject I've watched. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for this. Perfect timing since i'm starting a bunch of custodes cloaks today.
Literally, everything I need advice on you have covered. Thank you so much for taking the time to share your passion and knowledge.
Glad it's helping!
Really great seeing you paint up models from companies other than GW. Cloak looks amazing!
Thanks for the quick fix great work as usual.
Thank you for the quick audio fix
Thanks Vince. Always good to hear that message of ‘don’t worry’ when it comes to that messy stage of mapping out the values. I often get stuck on fixing it as I go
Absolutely!
Another great video, Vince!
V.V. - I can't thank you enough for showing this color value portion. Heavy layer stokes and how to blend them back in. Great example for me to follow!
Glad it was helpful!
I’ve been dreading working on a model because of its cloak, this was such good timing for me!
Glad I could help!
Awesome! Really handy this popping up as I have four cloaks to work on and I seriously need some wet blending experience. Thanks Vince. That is a BIG brush!
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Vince. Very good timing with this vid. Thanks Vince.
Vince, I'd love to see a video where you tackle punching up your painting on a model that doesn't lend itself to a loft of normal techniques. Battletech models, for instance, don't really work very well with the usual methods I employ. Speed/contrast/express paints don't work well over broad flat panels, washes can tend to leave tide marks, there's very little that's presented as round so blending can be awkward. Additionally, the 6mm scale on these can be difficult to imagine, we don't see things in our lives this size that are dynamic so there's little intuition in tackling how light plays on them. Honestly, I end up layering and edge highlighting most of the time or employing drybrush stippling and actual drybrushing for basecoating. I'd really appreciate seeing how you handle it.
Well, you'll be waiting a while on that sort of thing. I certainly will tackle robits, I love painting them. That being said, 28mm is as small as I go. I don't like smaller scales and though I have a deep and abiding love for Battletech, I hate the models of those mechs. I painted one many years back and swore I would never do it again. If they werein 28mm, I would paint them like crazy.
@@VinceVenturella well, I've seen it done but an Atlas printed at 28mm is a little smaller than a small titan. I do believe you might know some people with access to such things.
@@parallaxgames Yes, the issue is, all the sculpts that are available for 3-D prints aren't the versions I want. I am very picky, you mentioned the Atlas (an all time banger for sure) and I want the original AS7-D, star league era model. Not the more current redesign. Same thing is true for most. Most of the versions you see for print are post-clan invasion, when what I really want is a star league era or at latest 3025 era set of designs to print (technically, the AS7-D is the 3025 variant, but it hadn't changed much since Star League era as far as the house models go).
Thanks for making this process feel just a tad less intimidating
I love this approach.
Vince i love this specific videos. Im struggling to do this, always looking so flat... making all the mistakes you talked-about.
Beautiful "fabric".
Thank you so much!
You got this!
Awesome video just as im about to start to tackle the Lion, Thanks again Vince!
Beautiful work as always. Thank you
Thank you! Cheers!
Amazing result and explanation, thank you very much as always
Glad you liked it!
Great instructional video as always, inspiring and to the point. Thank you Vince!
My pleasure!
Awesome video as always, thanks for fixing the audio. My imaginary sound track wasn’t as good. 😂
Will watch again
Awesome once again mate. Great info. Fantastic end results! 😍
Beautiful work! Thx for the tutorial
You're welcome 😊
Fantastic tutorial. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Is it just me or is there a lot of Frazetta in the color schemes of things like this thumbnail and the Rethinking Skin video? And that is an incredibly high compliment from me.
Good stuff. Never tried this technique before.
You should!
Yay for the fix! Great timing for the video as i got a keeper of secrets waiting to be painted! Also a sigvald wich will be my first time nmm challange to myself
Have fun!
@@VinceVenturella Absolutely will!! Experimenting with purple and especialy mixing with magenta, has been a absolute blast.
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Thank you 👍
Truly a master
Thank you!
You're welcome!
I still remember and re-watch your wet blending video in which you paint a green cloak on a bust. And I still can not achieve that smoothness.
I see this is a similar technique. But I'd like to see it applied to a small, gaming size mini.
Really useful video
Thanks a lot!
You're welcome!
“Make it look like crap.” Got it.
Yay cloaks!
1. For the wet blending portion would you it be useful to use retarder?
2. For the glazing portion would it better to use a thinner needle or a thicker one? I typically use a 0.7 needle in badger. The times I have really thinned down the paint, it does not come out as an even layer. So I was not sure, where my mistake is.
Sure, though you don’t want much, it’s better to work with thicker paint and rely on that to prevent drying. You generally want a smaller needle, so you have more control of placement, but something like a .3 will work. One of the keys is in trigger control and an even 18 or less PSI. It’s a time and practice thing, but you can do it!
@@VinceVenturella Got it thank you for advice!
Stunning as always Vince, just love the colour, what paints did you use to finish off if you dont mind?
Just the same earlier purple, it's my purple from my Pro Acryl set.
Hi Vince. I really struggle with cloaks so this was really helpful. On the unifying stage, could you use Contrast paints? Sacrificing some quality for speed if you’re painting a unit? Thanks in advance
So I wouldn’t, unless they’re going through the airbrush, then they’re fine. The chemistry of contrast paints means when applied by brush, they are not going to be an even application, and that’s what you want.
I remember seeing a video where Vince was paint a black cloak and made it look like satin by adding light purples and ice yellow. Does anyone remember which video that is?
I believe this is what you're talking about - ruclips.net/video/_fScMZ1ZkOU/видео.html&pp=gAQBiAQB
Great Video, as always. Sponde or later, I will have to try wet blending, even though it scares me a lot, I have been using glazing all my hobby life.
In other news, new Epic was announced. Do you plan to make a video with tips for painting small scale models, or is it just primer (maybe Zenithal?) and contrast?
I doubt I will touch it, small scale just isn't my bag, but I think something like Zenithal and so on is the right way to go.
I seriously love that blue on the frontside of the cloak - any chance you could talk about the blues you used? I struggle trying to get that hue and saturation level with mine at times so I would love some guidance. Also I might just check out Mindworks - that model is fantastic esp. for a Slaanesh demon proxy I would think - might need some work but
It was pretty simple in all honesty, just AK Interactive Turquoise and then blue green with a very slight touch of pastel green at the very end.
When you are using such thin paint consistency in the airbrush, how do you avoid causing spidering issues with the paint spreading around after its sprayed?
Very careful trigger control. Basically, you want just a little bit of air, it's really just practice (which isn't the most helpful answer), but you can lower the pressure in the beginning to assist.
Hey Vince, the final airbrush glaze step, which value are you using for that? The midtone?
Yes indeed
❤
Vince, I've recently come across your videos and you have in particular made me confident to pick up my airbrush again. I'm doing a lot of ghosts and cloaks at the moment so this video was great. Question: at the end when you glazed, did you only use the initial base purple to glaze the whole lot? Or did you glaze in several colors?
Several colors, but mainly mid tone. But then also up and down.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you mate. Love your work.
Amazing video!
I am trying something similar but for a black cloack and I am having troubles with it trying to not make it read as grey...I tried to wet bled just the ridges from black straight to a hued dark grey but too stark and hard to blend smoothly without turning too much of the surface away from looking black.
Would you try with oils or do yout instructions still apply and I just neet to geet the swoops right? Just trying to figure out whether I should get different acrylics (I am using VMC black and AK ash grey for the first blends) or go straight to oils
Yes, depending on the black cloak, it can come all the way up to white (if it's satin or a silk cloak or something), the key is the right volumes and the balance (hitting that 50-60% number is critical).
@@VinceVenturella cheers boss
What is the color of the final glaze/filter? The midtone?
Yes
I've got pretty good at painting cloaks, they are usually the best part of any miniature I paint. For some reason I can't work out, I can succesfully use mmost techniques on a cloak but as soon as I try them on other areas, they fall apart quickly.
Just out of curiosity: did you have to record the audio anew, or were you able to retrieve the missing part? As always, excellent stuff, Vince! Cheers from Brazil
Recorded anew. :)
Hello, I have been a scale modeller of military vehicles mostly for around 30 years on and off, nothing serious just an escape really. I have been watching your videos and you have inspired me to try and push my skills that bit further with figures. Can you tell me where is the best place to get figures and where to start. Many Thanks.
Boy, that's a big question, I mean the list is near limitless, games are your first place, board games you think are cool or warhammer. If you're talking about display figures, then you're talking about a fairly distrbuted set of options, Big Child Creatives, Journeyman Miniatures, Mind Work games and so on are all excellent display figure producers.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you Vince I will look into your suggestions :)
Vince would you use wet blending to paint a black cloak? I have a witch king from middle earth and he's basically all black cloak and Im scared. Lol
Absolutely, great for flat areas like that.
Would it be possible to accomplish that smooth of a blend by just using a brush? I have yet to use an airbrush but really want to improve my blending.
Absolutely, as I said, I'm doing it with the airbrush because its faster, but the same blends could be done with glazes by brush.
What do you use for medium for blending? I always find my paint dries quickly on the model.
None is the short answer, it's more a question of the thickness of paint and a smooth application.
👏👏
this isn't really a question about the video, but do you plan on getting more of the 1 on 1 patreon tier opened up? Is there a waitlist?
I will eventually open more slots, I wish there was some way to do a waitlist, but Patreon doesn't currently allow that sadly.
a guy can hope :)
👍👍
I feel like the original was more innovative with its "silent tutorial" approach. Very avant-garde.
Hi Vince.
Hey Vince, slightly off topic, however, do you plan on doing any more Hobby Cheating Live Q&A's any time soon? :)
I’d always love to, I just rarely have the time.
Now with full audio (not that I don't love the dreamy background music).
Just a comment
Just a reply. ;)