Brian, I wanted to see if you were still happy with this configuration. Looks like a good solution. I have a 30,000 gal pool with an infinity edge so Im constantly in need of adding acid to the pool.
Yes, I ended up changing it up a little due to some issues, but basically it's the same design. I've got it dialed in, it makes traveling a lot easier. Also, the low and slow delivery has me using far less acid than before. Changes I made was putting a second shut-off valve near the pump, so I can shut off the flow on either side easily. I also added PVC to protect the connection into the pump. Long story short, I had the seal on my pump replaced, and the guy who serviced it stepped on the line and it broke the barb adapter in the pump. I had to carefully drill it out. So now I have two large PVC pieces sitting over that to prevent breakage of that. I'm really happy with it!
@@UraniumTwoThirtyFive Thanks for the update. i think I will implement something similar. I take it the valve you added on the pump side is just for shut off purposes so needn't be a special needle type valve. Also, I was reading about the tank and manufacturer says not to expose it to direct sunlight which would be pretty much impossible in my configuration so I'm guessing I could just figure on replacing the tank annually.
@@tscmedlake Yes, I'm just using a ball valve with barb, search "Ball Valve, 1 Pc, 1/4 In, PVC, Hose Barb" on Amzn. I use a small cover for mine, it's also mostly out of direct sun except a little in the morning. I bought a small end table patio cover and throw it over the top of the tank.
@@tscmedlake I made a new video showing the updates including the ball valves and the cover I'm using. Here you go: ruclips.net/video/cWmy4Ao4cBk/видео.html
This is a really good idea and design. I see you have a Variable speed pump, are you running it 24/7 aka 2-3 hours on high speed and the remaining time on low speed to save money? I'm sure that would have to be taken into effect seeing as the acid would always be pulling 24/7.
Hi Michael. Yes, it's a variable pump. I run it different amounts during different seasons, so that actually helps with this design. I run it ~12 hours in the Summer and only ~6 in the winter, so that'll also impact the amount of acid going in, and generally speaking I need more acid in the Summer, so it should play out nicely. I can adjust pump time accordingly to tweak acid a bit. I did some limited testing by putting the hose in a measuring cup. I'm not sure I could detect a huge difference between running at lower speed and higher speed. I have the needle valve basically closed and just the smallest amount leaks out (~1 ounce per hour). I generally only run my pump at high speed for a few minutes after priming.
@@UraniumTwoThirtyFive Awesome, I only ask because I recently went down the rabbit hole of operating my pool at maximum energy efficiency while still maintaining a healthy 3x pool turnover rate. Swapped out a single speed 3 years ago to a VSP, realized this year 3 hours of run time is more energy than 18 hours of run time so I adjusted my schedule and RPM's based on TDH calculations and pump efficiency flow chart. Cheaper to run the pump for that 3+18 hour time than it was my normal 8 hour single speed. Doing an automatic chlorine and acid drip is something I'd like to do eventually!
@@Michael-RUclips98 I actually created a spreadsheet and calculated the power at different RPM and flow rates. For me 30 GPM yielded the best efficiency while giving enough flow for the salt water chlorinator and heater. I use about 400W on my VSF at 30GPM, going to 35 move me well into 500W which is like 30% more power for just over 15% more turn-over. It gets exponentially worse at more flow. My pool stays super clean as it's mostly above trees and any non-human contaminates. So this works for me. I run ~11-12 hours at that speed in the Summer and 5-6 in Winter, always crystal clear.
In theory everything just stops moving as it's completely sealed. That said, I'm currently troubleshooting a small air leak in my multi-port which provides a slight vacuum which causes the fluid to go into the hose at a very slow rate. Given the concentration of acid, you don't want that. I have a new multi-port getting installed later this week.
I replaced my multi-port and things got better, but it was still slowly coming into the basket. I opted to install a normally closed actuator solenoid (WIC Valve). It wasn't cheap at $130, but it's heavy duty and rated for extreme temperature and corrosion. I wired it to the Intellicenter AUX port and am pulling power from the main pool pump, so for it to open, the pump must be on and the AUX relay must fire. I'm changing the setup from a drip to a higher-flow, like 1 ounce per minute, than intend to run it for ~10 minutes per day. I'll have an egg-timer on it for 5 minutes so if somehow it accidentally gets turned on manually, it'll shut off. Regardless, if the pump isn't pumping, it's impossible for the valve to be open.
Part 2 of video is here, shows a couple improvements made:
ruclips.net/video/cWmy4Ao4cBk/видео.html
Brian, I wanted to see if you were still happy with this configuration. Looks like a good solution. I have a 30,000 gal pool with an infinity edge so Im constantly in need of adding acid to the pool.
Yes, I ended up changing it up a little due to some issues, but basically it's the same design.
I've got it dialed in, it makes traveling a lot easier. Also, the low and slow delivery has me using far less acid than before.
Changes I made was putting a second shut-off valve near the pump, so I can shut off the flow on either side easily. I also added PVC to protect the connection into the pump. Long story short, I had the seal on my pump replaced, and the guy who serviced it stepped on the line and it broke the barb adapter in the pump. I had to carefully drill it out. So now I have two large PVC pieces sitting over that to prevent breakage of that.
I'm really happy with it!
@@UraniumTwoThirtyFive Thanks for the update. i think I will implement something similar. I take it the valve you added on the pump side is just for shut off purposes so needn't be a special needle type valve. Also, I was reading about the tank and manufacturer says not to expose it to direct sunlight which would be pretty much impossible in my configuration so I'm guessing I could just figure on replacing the tank annually.
@@tscmedlake Yes, I'm just using a ball valve with barb, search "Ball Valve, 1 Pc, 1/4 In, PVC, Hose Barb" on Amzn.
I use a small cover for mine, it's also mostly out of direct sun except a little in the morning. I bought a small end table patio cover and throw it over the top of the tank.
@@tscmedlake I made a new video showing the updates including the ball valves and the cover I'm using. Here you go: ruclips.net/video/cWmy4Ao4cBk/видео.html
This is a really good idea and design. I see you have a Variable speed pump, are you running it 24/7 aka 2-3 hours on high speed and the remaining time on low speed to save money? I'm sure that would have to be taken into effect seeing as the acid would always be pulling 24/7.
Hi Michael. Yes, it's a variable pump. I run it different amounts during different seasons, so that actually helps with this design. I run it ~12 hours in the Summer and only ~6 in the winter, so that'll also impact the amount of acid going in, and generally speaking I need more acid in the Summer, so it should play out nicely. I can adjust pump time accordingly to tweak acid a bit.
I did some limited testing by putting the hose in a measuring cup. I'm not sure I could detect a huge difference between running at lower speed and higher speed. I have the needle valve basically closed and just the smallest amount leaks out (~1 ounce per hour).
I generally only run my pump at high speed for a few minutes after priming.
@@UraniumTwoThirtyFive Awesome, I only ask because I recently went down the rabbit hole of operating my pool at maximum energy efficiency while still maintaining a healthy 3x pool turnover rate. Swapped out a single speed 3 years ago to a VSP, realized this year 3 hours of run time is more energy than 18 hours of run time so I adjusted my schedule and RPM's based on TDH calculations and pump efficiency flow chart. Cheaper to run the pump for that 3+18 hour time than it was my normal 8 hour single speed.
Doing an automatic chlorine and acid drip is something I'd like to do eventually!
@@Michael-RUclips98 I actually created a spreadsheet and calculated the power at different RPM and flow rates. For me 30 GPM yielded the best efficiency while giving enough flow for the salt water chlorinator and heater. I use about 400W on my VSF at 30GPM, going to 35 move me well into 500W which is like 30% more power for just over 15% more turn-over. It gets exponentially worse at more flow.
My pool stays super clean as it's mostly above trees and any non-human contaminates. So this works for me. I run ~11-12 hours at that speed in the Summer and 5-6 in Winter, always crystal clear.
When the pump is off, does water run backwards out of the pump drain hole?
In theory everything just stops moving as it's completely sealed. That said, I'm currently troubleshooting a small air leak in my multi-port which provides a slight vacuum which causes the fluid to go into the hose at a very slow rate. Given the concentration of acid, you don't want that. I have a new multi-port getting installed later this week.
I replaced my multi-port and things got better, but it was still slowly coming into the basket.
I opted to install a normally closed actuator solenoid (WIC Valve). It wasn't cheap at $130, but it's heavy duty and rated for extreme temperature and corrosion.
I wired it to the Intellicenter AUX port and am pulling power from the main pool pump, so for it to open, the pump must be on and the AUX relay must fire.
I'm changing the setup from a drip to a higher-flow, like 1 ounce per minute, than intend to run it for ~10 minutes per day. I'll have an egg-timer on it for 5 minutes so if somehow it accidentally gets turned on manually, it'll shut off. Regardless, if the pump isn't pumping, it's impossible for the valve to be open.
do you know if the valve stuck and change flow?
I don't understand the question.
*promo sm* ✅