How to Sharpen a Lawnmower Blade Cheaply and Easily Using Metal Cutting Files

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  • Опубликовано: 22 май 2021
  • Touch up or fully sharpen any mower blade without a trip to the store or specialized tools.
    With metal cutting files you can sharpen almost any lawnmower blade without any specialized equipment or a trip to the hardware store to have the blade sharpened.
    I started to using metal cutting files to sharpen my lawnmower blades after purchasing my first mulching mower years ago. The blade on that mower had several curves meant to aid in thoroughly mulching the grass. The blade was effective too, as long as it was sharp. But sharpening a blade with multiple undulations was effectively impossible on my bench grinder. And at the time, the local hardware stores wouldn’t or couldn’t sharpen anything other than the then common straight blades.
    Having a sharp mower blade gives a much better cut and makes cutting the grass a whole lot easier. But how to keep the blade sharp? Files. Metal cutting files. I know having the blade sharpened is less work. I know specialized equipment can be faster. However, I’ve found sharpening a lawnmower blade with metal cutting files to be faster than a trip to the store. Files are also more effective and versatile than cheap gadgets and far less expensive than quality power sharpening tools. Metal cutting files also take up less space and can be used for a multitude of other tasks.
    In this video I show the method I use to sharpen a lawnmower blade using only two different metal cutting files. I also discuss how to use a file and how to clamp the lawnmower blade for sharpening.
    Wikipedia Article on Files:
    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File_(tool)
    Video on Making File Handles:
    • Beat Up Applewood Make...
    Tools and Equipment Used in This Video:
    12” Bastard Cut File
    www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/...
    Half Round File - 10” Bastard Cut
    www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/...
    10” Second Cut Mill File
    www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/...
    Half Round File 8” Second Cut
    www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/...
    Professional Sharpie
    www.amazon.com/Sharpie-34821P...
    File Handles
    www.acmetools.com/shop/Search...
    Bessey 8” with 4” throat depth bar clamp
    www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/...
    Photographic, Video & Sound Equipment Used In Production:
    Avenger C-Stand
    www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...
    Avenger D600 Mini Boom
    www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...
    Reticam Phone Mount
    www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...
    Manfrotto 014-14 Rapid Adapter - 5/8" Stud to 1/4-20" Thread
    www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...
    Small Ball Head
    www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search...
    Rode smartLav Plus
    www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...
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Комментарии • 15

  • @sleepyrasta14820
    @sleepyrasta14820 Год назад +1

    Thanks for the tutorial saves me money on buying more blades

    • @CroakyOak
      @CroakyOak  Год назад

      Glad to help!
      Thanks for watching and commenting.

  • @scottkain7474
    @scottkain7474 Год назад +1

    Need to hang the blade on a nail and check the balance before reinstalling, as you may have taken more material off one side or yhe other when filing. If so, remove some more material from the heavy side to rebalance the blade.

    • @CroakyOak
      @CroakyOak  Год назад +2

      You’re quite correct about needing to balance the blade. I *always* check this but the process did not make it into the video.
      Interestingly, hand filing rarely removes enough extra material from either side to significantly upset the balance of the blade. For me, the main exception to this has been the rare occasion when one side of the blade has major damage and the other side does not.
      Thanks for watching and commenting.

  • @precinct1baltimorecountyre588
    @precinct1baltimorecountyre588 Год назад +1

    How i was taught 40 ye ago in small engine repair class files dont remove temper

    • @CroakyOak
      @CroakyOak  Год назад +1

      Exactly! Yet another reason to this task manually.
      Thanks for watching and commenting.

  • @buckbeans1
    @buckbeans1 3 года назад

    No lawn in Arizona where I live, so No lawnmowers! Just saw your video on the Nora Hall system. Her daughter still sells the product at this time and referred your video for my information. Are you still using the system to sharpen wood carving tools?

    • @CroakyOak
      @CroakyOak  3 года назад

      I sure am! The Koch system is the best thing out there! The green wheels and green compound I purchased years ago have saved me untold hours and give me sharper tools too. In addition to carving tools I use it to sharpen flat chisels and a leather skiving knife.
      My video on the Koch system can be found here:
      ruclips.net/video/LgSxkdA5eo0/видео.html

    • @johnganshow5536
      @johnganshow5536 2 года назад +1

      I'm in northern AZ we mow our lawn, so I'm looking for a coarse file to sharpen the blade..

  • @vadimu.2027
    @vadimu.2027 3 года назад +1

    Next project: how to build a sturdy bench.

    • @CroakyOak
      @CroakyOak  3 года назад

      @Vadim U. thanks for commenting! Is this a request or are you stating what you are going to do? I’m interested in what my viewers want to see and will watch. But until now, I haven’t had any direct requests.

  • @bottmar1
    @bottmar1 Месяц назад

    File the other direction. Leaves no burr.

    • @CroakyOak
      @CroakyOak  24 дня назад

      I’ll keep that in mind.
      Thanks for watching and commenting.

    • @astrid5870
      @astrid5870 4 дня назад

      Could you explain more what you mean please? I'm completely new to all of this😅

    • @bottmar1
      @bottmar1 3 дня назад

      @astrid5870. Whenever you file, disc sand, belt sand or grind a new edge lt is usually better to have the edge towards you while use your tool of choice away from you. Otherwise you are rolling a thin section of metal over that has to be removed on the other side of the blade. That rolled metal is called a burr. This applies to knife sharpening too. With filing you may not get much of a burr but filing is only good for blades that have no stone nicks or damage. I usually grind my blades by clamping the blade in a vice so that the edge is pointed up and then grind with a 4 1/2" Harbor Freight electric grinder with sparks flying down. You can see the edge the whole time you are grinding and know immediately when to stop removing metal. Those grinders are as little as $15 and the stones are as little as $1 a piece. All the other methods I see on RUclips are either harder to do or more costly. After 54 years at metal working in businesses and in my own auto repair shop I am not new to proper procedures on blade sharpening. I hope this helps.