Even fitting a cooker makes us think. Well done mate for being a good honest sparky. Some electrician's would have gone to town sensing her concerns that install
4mm is rated for 32 continuous (assuming reference method c, no derating factors), technically the 4mm flex at the cooker would handle 41 amps as in free air but not a good idea behind a cooker. the circuit only extends to the outlet plate so no modification to the circuit occurs, its just an apliance so no need to add rcd protection.
@@conorlanders8401 - A '6mm for cooker circuit' is a throw back from the old BS3036 30A rewireable fuse days when a derating factor of 0.725 was applied so a 4mm cable was not permitted as it took the cable rating below the fuse rating. The next size up is 6mm (IM C).👍
Silly question but...why don't you are using 3-phase system in houses? For flat cookers (mostly in central europe), we are using breaker 3x16A (3x10A sometimes enough too) and 5x2,5 cabel. Easier work with thinner wires and in my opinion, more power for anything.
I did one recently for £20 with 6mm t and e client bought. Took 2 hours with testing as cooker plate was old and 'threaded' and cooker had cheap connections which could fall apart with ease and link plates. Nightmare. £80 a proper quote but you think 20 minute job....duh
Only single phase connection on the cooker? Interesting. Can't say I've seen that before. They usually have three phase with copper bridging if you want single phase. We call it a stove or stove and oven in South Africa just FYI. Maybe a hob if the are split units. The big tank water heater we call a geyser. No idea why. Only used for plumbing purposes (bath, shower, basins) and not central heating. Central heating is not a normal thing here.
@@alex_lightning4523 Yeah but do you actually get a lot of cookers specifically manufactured for the UK market? I thought most of them were common European versions that came with little copper jumpers for all sorts of supplies (1ph 230 V, 2ph+N 230/400 V (i.e. two out of the three phases from a 3-phase supply), 3ph 133/230 V and 3ph 230/400 V, even 230 V 1ph 2L+2N (i.e. two single-phase circuits)).
I came to see the full installation of the cooker and you didn't even show connecting the cables to the cooker and to the box. Just irrelevant chit chat and a before and after shot. Yeah great stuff. Video not fit for purpose really.
6.0mm t/e cable can only be protected by 40 amp MCB if it is clipped direct. Hope it’s not in thermally insulated wall. Also, you ran a new cable to the cooker and didn’t connect it to RCD protected side of consumer unit? If the cable is buried in a wall less than 50mm depth, RCD protection is required. Reg 522.6.101
as far as i could see he only changed the flex to the cooker, the outlet plate is the end of the fixed wiring which would fall under the requirement for rcd protection.
Even fitting a cooker makes us think.
Well done mate for being a good honest sparky.
Some electrician's would have gone to town sensing her concerns that install
with that install. (typo)
I agree flex is better but most suppliers don't seem to stock it.
You don‘t need a bit set. Most manufacturers of screwdrivers also offer Torx (should be the size TX20 or 25) also as insulated screwdrivers.
Hi Delroy, not sure what camera you use, but see if its got a filter setting for 50Hz flicker.
Thanks for the tip
Exellent dell😊
Hello I like to know if u can install cooker hood in council flat
Hiya I need a electric cooker fitted what will this cost please?
Hello Delroy , where do I purchase that extra long blue wire and not one with the three colours red , blue and yellow ?
Flex can take more than t&e though
Isn't 6mm supposed to be on 32amp breaker and how comes you didn't move the breaker to rcd
4mm is rated for 32 continuous (assuming reference method c, no derating factors), technically the 4mm flex at the cooker would handle 41 amps as in free air but not a good idea behind a cooker. the circuit only extends to the outlet plate so no modification to the circuit occurs, its just an apliance so no need to add rcd protection.
Also there is a paragraph in the regs that suggests 4mm is always gonna be enough for any cooking equipment when diversity is taken into account.
@@londontrada I think it says that cooking loads upto 15kw are suitable on a 32 amp breaker and therefore 4mm assuming clipped direct.
4mm can run 40amp+ , so on 32amp circuit it's fine
@@conorlanders8401 - A '6mm for cooker circuit' is a throw back from the old BS3036 30A rewireable fuse days when a derating factor of 0.725 was applied so a 4mm cable was not permitted as it took the cable rating below the fuse rating.
The next size up is 6mm (IM C).👍
You don't show how to connect the wires 😮
Silly question but...why don't you are using 3-phase system in houses? For flat cookers (mostly in central europe), we are using breaker 3x16A
(3x10A sometimes enough too) and 5x2,5 cabel. Easier work with thinner wires and in my opinion, more power for anything.
It's always been single phase to domestic houses in the UK. Thats how the distribution networks set it up.
Where can I purchase the wire coming from the cooker ? Why is he only using one when my wall outlet has three black yellow and red ? Pls help
Brilliant job well done ✔
Cheers Gary
Sorry but it’s just me. I didn’t see how he connected the wires. What job???
top bloke love the vids
What cable do I need to
Which connection dud you do tge loop test for this?
How much do you charge to install a cooker, just asking in advance.
I did one recently for £20 with 6mm t and e client bought. Took 2 hours with testing as cooker plate was old and 'threaded' and cooker had cheap connections which could fall apart with ease and link plates. Nightmare. £80 a proper quote but you think 20 minute job....duh
@@EMEL-hr4ut Thank you for your reply.👍🏾
was there an rcd on the circuit
Hi Del, can you use the 2lo test on all circuit for the zs.
Only rcd protected circuits
@@andrewwilson4402 thats 2 high mate. 2 lo is for rcd circuits
Looks like there is a switch above cooktop. Is there no regulation against that over in UK?
Not specifically, though everything you install must be suitable for the location.
isolation should be min 300mm horizontally from edge of cooker and within 2 metres of appliance if new kitchen.
Only single phase connection on the cooker? Interesting. Can't say I've seen that before. They usually have three phase with copper bridging if you want single phase.
We call it a stove or stove and oven in South Africa just FYI. Maybe a hob if the are split units.
The big tank water heater we call a geyser. No idea why. Only used for plumbing purposes (bath, shower, basins) and not central heating. Central heating is not a normal thing here.
It’s in most new cookers? 🤣🤣
@@Madman-ge2eb Three phase power is not used domestically in the UK, in difference to most other countries
@@alex_lightning4523 Yeah but do you actually get a lot of cookers specifically manufactured for the UK market? I thought most of them were common European versions that came with little copper jumpers for all sorts of supplies (1ph 230 V, 2ph+N 230/400 V (i.e. two out of the three phases from a 3-phase supply), 3ph 133/230 V and 3ph 230/400 V, even 230 V 1ph 2L+2N (i.e. two single-phase circuits)).
@@alex_lightning4523 i know that I’ve been working for 3/4 years now 👀👀
3 phase on a cooker in a domestic house?! Not in England
I came to see the full installation of the cooker and you didn't even show connecting the cables to the cooker and to the box. Just irrelevant chit chat and a before and after shot. Yeah great stuff. Video not fit for purpose really.
6.0mm t/e cable can only be protected by 40 amp MCB if it is clipped direct. Hope it’s not in thermally insulated wall. Also, you ran a new cable to the cooker and didn’t connect it to RCD protected side of consumer unit? If the cable is buried in a wall less than 50mm depth, RCD protection is required. Reg 522.6.101
Changing an appliance is not an excuse to start retro-applying whatever todays standards are to an existing installation.
as far as i could see he only changed the flex to the cooker, the outlet plate is the end of the fixed wiring which would fall under the requirement for rcd protection.
@@conorlanders8401 yes I have noticed this now. I first thought he ran a 6.0mm t/e from the consumer unit.