I (as Nicolai Lund-Jensen below) have a couple of issues with the process described. I'd take neither files nor sandpaper (nor polish for that matter) to the stanchions. Use a break-off knife (stanley, utility knife) blade and place the sharp bit parallel and against the surface at about 90° angle, and drag it over the burr. The stanchions have a hard coating so the blade won't "bite" into that, but it will bite into the (soft, aluminium) burr. You'll be able to get it absolutely flat and smooth like this. Then clean out the scratch (only here you can use some fine paper to rough up the surface INSIDE the scratch. Put your filler ONLY inside the scratch, don't get any around it. The stanchion coating is made to be porous so it can hold some oil and lubricate seals and bushings (not bushes). If you slather resin/varnish over it you're sealing the surface and degrading the lubrication in that area. Let it harden (in case of epoxy resin you can use your hair dryer to warm the spot up, this results in a harder fill. Then use the blade again in the same fashion to scratch off the excess resin/varnish. When applying the filler you need to make sure it is only inside the scratch, but makes a nice "bubble" above it, as it will shrink a bit while hardening. If you find there is a slight depression in your filler and you can't reach it with the blade, apply some more. When you're done, if you can, inspect the repair under high magnification. The filler surface should be dull, without any shiny spots. If it's shiny, you need to apply some more. Don't bother polishing, it is not rough enough to damage anything, and the little bit of roughness allows it to hold a bit of oil to aid lubrication. This process is fit for a functional repair, as it will restore the surface in a best way I know, however it's not fit for cosmetic repair as it will leave the surface of the burr shiny and thus visible as an imperfection. If you want to also repair it cosmetically, use an abrasion tool (a file or sandpaper) to lower the surface where the burr was, so it can hold some resin.
I like this much better and was thinking the same thing when I was watching this video. Will provide a better surface and less chance of making things worse!
@@jusphit I'd say any epoxy you are comfortable working with should do. In the meantime I discovered the UV-curing resin, that would be quite well-suited for the purpose. resin-expert.com/en/guide/uv-glue . Clean and fill the scratch, shine some UV on it and you can remove the excess immediately.
GMBN Tech I'd like to see a video what all the knobs on forks and shocks do? Like high speed, low speed, bottom out, all of that because I'm so confused but I can't find anything on it online, thanks so much for all you help, keep up the great videos, thanks 😀
Top tip: Use a sharp blade from a utility knife to remove the filler material. If you hold it parallel to the fork stanchion, you'll get the right curvature straight away and will save a lot of time on polishing afterwards(If you even need to polish). Bonus tip: The blade is hardened steel whereas the stanchion usually is aluminium, so you can also use the blade to remove the burr to begin with, which will again leave you with the same curvature as the stanchions. Works a treat.
I would recommend using regular steel needle files. Regular needle files will only take off the burr when light pressure is applied. Once the burr has been removed the file will skid across the surface IF you work with light pressure. The diamond coated ones are basically like sandpaper. They scratch up everything they touch. These coated files will scratch the surrounding vicinity of the nick and go straight through the anodisation.
Im not familiar with the 'type' of anodizing they use on fork stantions but "Hard anodize" does come in black and IF its Hard Anodize, its upwards of 60 Rockwell hardness and your file won't do anything to it. It will actually damage the file. Have you tried this with a regular file? I figured Doddy suggested diamond files because this is in fact hard anodize.
Cinnabuns2009 the whole point of using regular files is to not mess up the anodising that is left around the nick. But aside from that, my files are 63hrc, which is a pretty standard value for quality files. The raised burr is aluminium and is easily removable with a steel file, when the burr is gone the file will just skate across the surface. That doesn't ruin your file by the way, unless you're exerting a lot of pressure on it.
Try P O R 15 . Its a epoxy resin paint used for automotive restoration on anything rusty and old. This stuff is super duper tough paint. Stones off the tires wont even chip it. When i weld up a new trailer in my shop i use P O R 15 to paint it. Stuff last forever compared to paint. I used it on my 888rc and mt 66rc. Never know they were fixed. I have found the seal alway seems to need to be replaced once it runs over a nic and get cut by it. Change the seal and your brandnew secondhand.
When we transport bikes on the bike trailer at school we slam the dropper posts and put bits of foam pipe insulation over the stanchions and any other bits that look like they might rub. Cheap as chips and you can just tear it to size if you're in a hurry.
Great video. I've used a razor to remove burrs before with some success. Then the same procedure with emory paper and polish. Instead of nail varnish you can also use an epoxy which is a bit tougher.
because it most likely looked shit . You don't put that much epoxy and you don't sand the dame stanchions . You put a dab of epoxy in the scratch and then use a blade to cut the excess away .
Bit of a sloppy job if you ask me, not surprisingly we are not shown the end result which is normally standard practice for these kinds of video. For one I would stay far away from my stanchions with cheapie diamond files(very aggressive grit) and not slop nail varnish all over the place, nail varnish should be very carefully applied and only in the chip. Also you don't want to sand the good areas of the stanchion, so it would be wise to use masking/painters/tape to mask off everything but the filled scratch when you come to sand it and only sand the surrounding areas on the final smooth off sanding with ultra fine paper. PS.. you can get black nail varnish and all kinds of colors, I'm sure it's possible to find one in near the exact shade of most stanchions.
Aluminium foil and water works really well to take out scratches. It is used on chrome so is really effective on forks etc. Flat square of foil, a bit of water and patience.
There is actually a repair that can be made with epoxy. I have also seen brazing rode used and then sand smooth. I prefer epoxy and then spray with a Teflon paint. Great advice here for smaller job's.
Restoring the surface of a precision component with sandpaper without any form of rigid, straight backing will create small lumps in the surface and alter the geometry of the stanchion. You will probably not be able to see the lumps but they are there and they will put extra wear on the seals. Please use a nice straight wood or metal backer to avoid sanding lumps into your stanchion.
If you feel so inclined you could certainly make a sanding block precisely matching a section of the circumference of the stanchion plus offset compensated for the thickness of the sandpaper and double stick tape/glue. I was trying to keep my comment short but I should have mentioned that low sanding pressure should be used. With care it's certainly possible to correctly sand a cylindrical surface with a flat sanding backer. It's for sure better than just using your finger.
From my experience This is unnecessary when working with such a small scratch, if you take the time to work precisely and within the parameter of the damaged area. Doing This is a waste of your time.
I started doing this on some 1997 Z1 Bomber stanchions. The gold anodizing they have on those things is hard as nails, some wet/dry sandpaper in a fine grade (800-1000) and a careless attitude made them smooth without affecting the coating.
Well, i'm just gonna roll an inner tube around that dropper stanchion. It's a hack. Seth's Bike Hack show this. How it works is kinda like a Gravity Dropper post
There are some who agree n disagree with this method based on the comments. I dont think either way is wrong but which is better depends on the nature of the damage. I found epoxy good for deeper chips but not effective on shallow chips. Nail varnish + super glue mix is very effective for shallow chips but needs to be done properly to last (i dont agree with filing the chip). However filing the burrs is not the best way. Using a very sharp stanleys blade to shave off the burrs is more effective n isolates the chip. Just fill the inside of the chip, use painter's tape n make a hole almost the same size of the chip n just paste it on the stanchion. It makes isolating the chip effective to fill in the chip without slapping the varnish/glue mix all over but only inside the chip and a bit around it thn remove the painter's tape when done. and LEAVE IT FOR 24 hours to complelely harden (best in warm room). This is extremely important or it wont last. Next use a harder thn painter's tape material like any excess frame protecter film, make the same size hole as the chip n replace it with the painter's tape so as to isolate the chip n the varnish/super glue mix. This is for polishing the excess filling with very fine emery paper without buffing the uneffected area. Dont use the blade to shave off the varnish as most of the time you will just pull out the whole filling. Keep light firm pressure with the emery paper n polish the excess varnish+super glue mix on and around the chip until it is almost smooth over. This requires a lottttttt of patience so dont rush it. This method require more steps n patience but it is well worth it n the chip is barely noticed. Mine has been on for the last 6 months with no issues.. even if it eventually comes off i wld do it again as the effort is worth it if it last a few months n save a load in buying a new fork. I guess a good nail varnish and super glue is the ghetto resin epoxy.
Technique seems to work fairly well. However, just one or two applications of polish hasn't seemed to fill the scratch. I've removed excess using a razor on my first few attempts, as others below have mentioned, but it might be pulling some of the fill out or leaving a small lip. This is possibly why the video just sands down the fill, rather than cutting away excess. I have a feeling this repair just buys some time as I can't imagine the polish lasts very long being exposed to oil, grease, and friction.
AH! I'm glad I filed this video away in case of disaster, and my ticket finally came up. Your guidance worked perfectly! I just finished polishing up a triple gouge I filled with a spot of clear epoxy. It looks like a tiny tiger took a swipe at my stanchion. My poor Fox 36s have a battle wound, but will wear it safely and proudly. Every ding cones with a story to tell! It would be great to see a video about filling dings in carbon frames. My Yeti Lunch Ride has many (many) miles on it, and has the scars to prove it. The white and occasional black scar really stand out against the turquoise paint. I assume automobile touch-up paint would work, but I'm not sure if it will negatively react with the carbon.
What does the metal polish do ? I mean, after you've filed the scratch down, put some nail vanish on it, smooth the surface out with emery paper; it pretty much smooth at that point right ? And would silicon spray affect the metal polish ?
dd410 you don't have to do it after every ride but it should be part of your regular maintenance. I like to coat my stanchions with pure silicone spray (make sure there are no petroleum distillates in the ingredients some market theirs as; silicone spray when it's not really a true silicone spray) after every other ride. The most important thing is to make sure that the fork is clean there is no dirt and debris near the wioer seals. Once clean and dry spray a light coat of silicone being careful not to get any overspray on the brake caliper and rotor. I usually cover the brakes with a big towel. You don't need too be liberal with the silicone just one or two short sprays. Then just lightly wipe off the excess. Give the forks a few bounces and you're good to go. You can do the same for the rear shock as well.
Can also spray silicone onto cloth then wipe onto uppers. I use this trick for car door seals in Canadian winters to keep doors from freezing shut and avoiding a big mess.
I didn’t even realise this was such a problem, luckily I have a brand new fork being installed to my bike right now so I will definitely be watching out for scratches now
I have a question - the stanchion of my fork has a scratch but its barely noticeable but when I touch it using the tip of my finger nail I feel like theirs a ridge on the scratch
I have a minor scratch on both my stantion and shock. I have filled in the scratch with nail polish then sanded and finally polished them. They are minor, but I can still feel them. Will I eventually have to replace these parts because they will wear through the seals?
Does this work with fox 36's kashima. Its doesnt feel rough. But I have a small amount of scratch. When I feel it, it doesnt feel like there are any scratches.
A bit too much nail varnish? You just need to fill the scratch and around 1mm outside the scratch. Then you don't have to sand it as much. Good vid as always!
My front forks are matte black, when they scratch the silver comes through and looks obvious, as long as the scratch isn’t too big a quick little fix is a black sharpie, doesn’t fully hide it but makes it much less obvious
I just bought a pair of 160mm 36's with the intent to lower them to 100mm for a dirt jump build, they were cheap because there's a little gouge in the stanchion, but it's about 30mm above the fork seals so once lowered it will never rub over the top seal. Are there any internal o-rings I should worry about it rubbing against and damaging?
Great video Doddy, as always! I can't figure out though why you use brake cleaner with the sandpaper. Why not just soapy water?Am I missing something? Keep up the great work love your videos
Guys can you make some commentary over the new trunnion mount shocks about how you can brake on of the eyelets if you let on bolt loose and fucked up the thread? PS bad english, sorry
GMBN Tech, is there any disadvantage to using colored nail polish as opposed to clear varnish? My stanchion is black so I'd like to use black polish, but don't want to do so if it'll damage the stanchion
I’m Looking to buy a newer fork for my bike, should I buy a used fork with damage (like the one in the video) and repair it (like in the video) so it runs smooth and I can use it, thanks.
I'd be wary of buying anything that's damaged mate. If a person is happy to sell something that is damaged I doubt they will have taken good care of it. And that's just the damage you can see. Too much of a gamble and you'll have to spend even more to get it fixed.
I wish rock shox or a 3rd party would make stanchion covers for the rs-1 in the same fashion cannondale do for their lefty ... at least rs-1 stanchions are a lot cheaper than normal fork as you can buy individual stanchions and complexity of CSU is not there
It went together easily in less than an hour. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Make sure the front fork is forward or the pedals will hit the front tire. Tires are both a little soft so it needs air before I ride it. The rear wheel didn't come with a clamp regular bolts hold it on. The front had the clamp. No scratches out of box. Rims are a little off with a slight wobble. They could have spent more time with the spoke tool fixing the run out. So far out of the box I'm happy with it. I did replace the pedals with a nice aftermarket set. After riding it a bit my A$$ is a bit sore so I ordered another seat. Overall I'm nearly 60 and didn't ride a bike in 30 years. I like my new 29" Schwinn. It will be used for casual rides with my friend.
I (as Nicolai Lund-Jensen below) have a couple of issues with the process described. I'd take neither files nor sandpaper (nor polish for that matter) to the stanchions. Use a break-off knife (stanley, utility knife) blade and place the sharp bit parallel and against the surface at about 90° angle, and drag it over the burr. The stanchions have a hard coating so the blade won't "bite" into that, but it will bite into the (soft, aluminium) burr. You'll be able to get it absolutely flat and smooth like this. Then clean out the scratch (only here you can use some fine paper to rough up the surface INSIDE the scratch. Put your filler ONLY inside the scratch, don't get any around it. The stanchion coating is made to be porous so it can hold some oil and lubricate seals and bushings (not bushes). If you slather resin/varnish over it you're sealing the surface and degrading the lubrication in that area. Let it harden (in case of epoxy resin you can use your hair dryer to warm the spot up, this results in a harder fill. Then use the blade again in the same fashion to scratch off the excess resin/varnish. When applying the filler you need to make sure it is only inside the scratch, but makes a nice "bubble" above it, as it will shrink a bit while hardening. If you find there is a slight depression in your filler and you can't reach it with the blade, apply some more. When you're done, if you can, inspect the repair under high magnification. The filler surface should be dull, without any shiny spots. If it's shiny, you need to apply some more. Don't bother polishing, it is not rough enough to damage anything, and the little bit of roughness allows it to hold a bit of oil to aid lubrication.
This process is fit for a functional repair, as it will restore the surface in a best way I know, however it's not fit for cosmetic repair as it will leave the surface of the burr shiny and thus visible as an imperfection. If you want to also repair it cosmetically, use an abrasion tool (a file or sandpaper) to lower the surface where the burr was, so it can hold some resin.
Thanks for the preciced explenation!
I like this much better and was thinking the same thing when I was watching this video. Will provide a better surface and less chance of making things worse!
This worked so well for me. You can see the metal come off, go slow, takes 3-5 min per scuff depending on the depth.
I like this approach! What kind of epoxy or filler are we talking about? i have a long scratch on mine :(
@@jusphit I'd say any epoxy you are comfortable working with should do. In the meantime I discovered the UV-curing resin, that would be quite well-suited for the purpose. resin-expert.com/en/guide/uv-glue . Clean and fill the scratch, shine some UV on it and you can remove the excess immediately.
You're seriously the best at tech, you've saved me so much money through these videos
Thanks Orringe - great to hear. Any videos you want to see on the channel?
GMBN Tech I'd like to see a video what all the knobs on forks and shocks do? Like high speed, low speed, bottom out, all of that because I'm so confused but I can't find anything on it online, thanks so much for all you help, keep up the great videos, thanks 😀
Maybe consider buying a some merch from GMBN store then, that would be a nice and you can get some cool kit, just a suggestion.
Great to hear, congratulations for the new bike.
Top tip: Use a sharp blade from a utility knife to remove the filler material. If you hold it parallel to the fork stanchion, you'll get the right curvature straight away and will save a lot of time on polishing afterwards(If you even need to polish). Bonus tip: The blade is hardened steel whereas the stanchion usually is aluminium, so you can also use the blade to remove the burr to begin with, which will again leave you with the same curvature as the stanchions. Works a treat.
Is that without using the 1200 grip paper instead?
Any chance there is a video example of this somewhere?
I would recommend using regular steel needle files. Regular needle files will only take off the burr when light pressure is applied. Once the burr has been removed the file will skid across the surface IF you work with light pressure.
The diamond coated ones are basically like sandpaper. They scratch up everything they touch. These coated files will scratch the surrounding vicinity of the nick and go straight through the anodisation.
Im not familiar with the 'type' of anodizing they use on fork stantions but "Hard anodize" does come in black and IF its Hard Anodize, its upwards of 60 Rockwell hardness and your file won't do anything to it. It will actually damage the file. Have you tried this with a regular file? I figured Doddy suggested diamond files because this is in fact hard anodize.
Cinnabuns2009 the whole point of using regular files is to not mess up the anodising that is left around the nick.
But aside from that, my files are 63hrc, which is a pretty standard value for quality files.
The raised burr is aluminium and is easily removable with a steel file, when the burr is gone the file will just skate across the surface. That doesn't ruin your file by the way, unless you're exerting a lot of pressure on it.
@@Cinnabuns2009 Diamond files are harder than 60 Rockwell hardness . so you must use steel file
Try P O R 15 . Its a epoxy resin paint used for automotive restoration on anything rusty and old. This stuff is super duper tough paint. Stones off the tires wont even chip it. When i weld up a new trailer in my shop i use P O R 15 to paint it. Stuff last forever compared to paint. I used it on my 888rc and mt 66rc. Never know they were fixed. I have found the seal alway seems to need to be replaced once it runs over a nic and get cut by it. Change the seal and your brandnew secondhand.
When we transport bikes on the bike trailer at school we slam the dropper posts and put bits of foam pipe insulation over the stanchions and any other bits that look like they might rub. Cheap as chips and you can just tear it to size if you're in a hurry.
Great video. I've used a razor to remove burrs before with some success. Then the same procedure with emory paper and polish. Instead of nail varnish you can also use an epoxy which is a bit tougher.
I cant believe you didnt show the finished job :/
Agree
because it most likely looked shit . You don't put that much epoxy and you don't sand the dame stanchions . You put a dab of epoxy in the scratch and then use a blade to cut the excess away .
我想知道这是什么胶水？
@@SKBKER if you watched it he used nail polish not epoxy and wasnt sanding ... 1200 grit dont sand son he did nothing you are talking about hahahaa
@@user-ug1vq7vy9o 指甲油
Bit of a sloppy job if you ask me, not surprisingly we are not shown the end result which is normally standard practice for these kinds of video.
For one I would stay far away from my stanchions with cheapie diamond files(very aggressive grit) and not slop nail varnish all over the place, nail varnish should be very carefully applied and only in the chip. Also you don't want to sand the good areas of the stanchion, so it would be wise to use masking/painters/tape to mask off everything but the filled scratch when you come to sand it and only sand the surrounding areas on the final smooth off sanding with ultra fine paper.
PS.. you can get black nail varnish and all kinds of colors, I'm sure it's possible to find one in near the exact shade of most stanchions.
do girls like to paint their nails with kashima colour? :D
Aluminium foil and water works really well to take out scratches. It is used on chrome so is really effective on forks etc. Flat square of foil, a bit of water and patience.
There is actually a repair that can be made with epoxy. I have also seen brazing rode used and then sand smooth. I prefer epoxy and then spray with a Teflon paint. Great advice here for smaller job's.
Restoring the surface of a precision component with sandpaper without any form of rigid, straight backing will create small lumps in the surface and alter the geometry of the stanchion. You will probably not be able to see the lumps but they are there and they will put extra wear on the seals.
Please use a nice straight wood or metal backer to avoid sanding lumps into your stanchion.
Sanding block on a round surface? dont know about that one.
If you feel so inclined you could certainly make a sanding block precisely matching a section of the circumference of the stanchion plus offset compensated for the thickness of the sandpaper and double stick tape/glue.
I was trying to keep my comment short but I should have mentioned that low sanding pressure should be used. With care it's certainly possible to correctly sand a cylindrical surface with a flat sanding backer. It's for sure better than just using your finger.
From my experience This is unnecessary when working with such a small scratch, if you take the time to work precisely and within the parameter of the damaged area. Doing This is a waste of your time.
I started doing this on some 1997 Z1 Bomber stanchions. The gold anodizing they have on those things is hard as nails, some wet/dry sandpaper in a fine grade (800-1000) and a careless attitude made them smooth without affecting the coating.
I think I'll start transporting my bike with the dropper slammed to protect the stanchion from now on
yeah definitely worth doing
That's what I do plus it takes up less space!
Well, i'm just gonna roll an inner tube around that dropper stanchion. It's a hack. Seth's Bike Hack show this. How it works is kinda like a Gravity Dropper post
Yeah I always do it
There are some who agree n disagree with this method based on the comments. I dont think either way is wrong but which is better depends on the nature of the damage. I found epoxy good for deeper chips but not effective on shallow chips. Nail varnish + super glue mix is very effective for shallow chips but needs to be done properly to last (i dont agree with filing the chip). However filing the burrs is not the best way. Using a very sharp stanleys blade to shave off the burrs is more effective n isolates the chip. Just fill the inside of the chip, use painter's tape n make a hole almost the same size of the chip n just paste it on the stanchion. It makes isolating the chip effective to fill in the chip without slapping the varnish/glue mix all over but only inside the chip and a bit around it thn remove the painter's tape when done. and LEAVE IT FOR 24 hours to complelely harden (best in warm room). This is extremely important or it wont last. Next use a harder thn painter's tape material like any excess frame protecter film, make the same size hole as the chip n replace it with the painter's tape so as to isolate the chip n the varnish/super glue mix. This is for polishing the excess filling with very fine emery paper without buffing the uneffected area. Dont use the blade to shave off the varnish as most of the time you will just pull out the whole filling. Keep light firm pressure with the emery paper n polish the excess varnish+super glue mix on and around the chip until it is almost smooth over. This requires a lottttttt of patience so dont rush it. This method require more steps n patience but it is well worth it n the chip is barely noticed. Mine has been on for the last 6 months with no issues.. even if it eventually comes off i wld do it again as the effort is worth it if it last a few months n save a load in buying a new fork. I guess a good nail varnish and super glue is the ghetto resin epoxy.
You r really intelligent dude.👍👍
Keep sharing ur knowledge
Very helpful! 👍🏽 How long is this nail polish going to last on the stanchions?
Thx
I've commented on a previous video, but I think you should look into ceramic coating, to see if it works.
Thank you so much for this I just used this on my bike, and I was just about to get new forks Thank you so much 👍🏻👍🏻☺️
Technique seems to work fairly well. However, just one or two applications of polish hasn't seemed to fill the scratch. I've removed excess using a razor on my first few attempts, as others below have mentioned, but it might be pulling some of the fill out or leaving a small lip. This is possibly why the video just sands down the fill, rather than cutting away excess. I have a feeling this repair just buys some time as I can't imagine the polish lasts very long being exposed to oil, grease, and friction.
Thanks for the video Doddy. Can't say I did not wince through the whole video. You are a brave man.
What metal polish did you use? I tried Brasso and it ate the epoxy right off.
AH! I'm glad I filed this video away in case of disaster, and my ticket finally came up. Your guidance worked perfectly!
I just finished polishing up a triple gouge I filled with a spot of clear epoxy. It looks like a tiny tiger took a swipe at my stanchion. My poor Fox 36s have a battle wound, but will wear it safely and proudly. Every ding cones with a story to tell!
It would be great to see a video about filling dings in carbon frames. My Yeti Lunch Ride has many (many) miles on it, and has the scars to prove it. The white and occasional black scar really stand out against the turquoise paint. I assume automobile touch-up paint would work, but I'm not sure if it will negatively react with the carbon.
Could you use a sharpie to hide the scratches after filling them
I would use filler in just the scratch area not anymore like in this vid. All the polishing thins out the stanchion coating.
What does the metal polish do ? I mean, after you've filed the scratch down, put some nail vanish on it, smooth the surface out with emery paper; it pretty much smooth at that point right ? And would silicon spray affect the metal polish ?
Dũng Lê Văn it's just another finer level of sanding to make it even smoother
Thanks for good video!
Any chance you could make a video on how to service a dropper post e.g take it apart clean change seals etc
Should you use anything on your stancion like lubricants after every ride ?
dd410 you don't have to do it after every ride but it should be part of your regular maintenance. I like to coat my stanchions with pure silicone spray (make sure there are no petroleum distillates in the ingredients some market theirs as; silicone spray when it's not really a true silicone spray) after every other ride. The most important thing is to make sure that the fork is clean there is no dirt and debris near the wioer seals. Once clean and dry spray a light coat of silicone being careful not to get any overspray on the brake caliper and rotor. I usually cover the brakes with a big towel. You don't need too be liberal with the silicone just one or two short sprays. Then just lightly wipe off the excess. Give the forks a few bounces and you're good to go. You can do the same for the rear shock as well.
thanks bro
Can also spray silicone onto cloth then wipe onto uppers. I use this trick for car door seals in Canadian winters to keep doors from freezing shut and avoiding a big mess.
Thank you for the tip. Saves a lot of money and hassle.
So can i bassicaly use my girlfriends black nail polish ? Is that the same?
first tape everything aroud the dent so you don’t scratch everything around the dent
can you use superglue instead of nail varnish?
Amazing idea but will this work for inverted forks of my motorcycle?
Should you buy forks with marked stanchions 😕
Can one use black nail polish? Does it have to be clear?
Hi Doddy, is this also gonna work on a small dent in the stanchion tube!? Many thanks in advance!
I didn’t even realise this was such a problem, luckily I have a brand new fork being installed to my bike right now so I will definitely be watching out for scratches now
could you use a colored nail polish to match then go over with clear?
Elizabeth McDonald yes
I have a question - the stanchion of my fork has a scratch but its barely noticeable but when I touch it using the tip of my finger nail I feel like theirs a ridge on the scratch
Great video Doddy hope I never scratch my stanchions but if I do I will now know what to do 👍.
One of the best vids ever! So valuable,thanks!
How much of a problem are these scratches on a coil fork
Huge
Could you use a gold color nail color to match the gold stanchion or only the nail clear coatings? Great tip, thanks
did u already used gold nail polish ? or the clear one and it is totally fine without any problem of using it ? ?
hey where is the finished job? I know something going wrong here
Thanks for this video ❤
I just preadure washed my bike and the dropper post was going wierd down...like it rubbed on something. Im now home and i have a 13cm scratch
What happens when the filler breaks off inside and knackers the fork ?
New forks 😂
If it's done right it won't come off
Thank you.
Not the first time he's buffed his shaft. lol
I try it
Can i use my girlfriends black nail polish is that the same or i need this nail varnish thing?
You can wear whatever color nail polish you like while you fix the fork.
How long do u recommend for the nail polish to sit before using? I know till its rock hard. But how long did u wait in this video?
Can you use black colourer nail varnish to match the forks?
Great video, but you didn’t show us the finished product! How do I know what it supposed to look like?
I have a minor scratch on both my stantion and shock. I have filled in the scratch with nail polish then sanded and finally polished them. They are minor, but I can still feel them. Will I eventually have to replace these parts because they will wear through the seals?
Does this work with fox 36's kashima. Its doesnt feel rough. But I have a small amount of scratch. When I feel it, it doesnt feel like there are any scratches.
Hi Doddy, any tips on working on a scratched kashima coat?
What is a better seat for this bike?
A bit too much nail varnish? You just need to fill the scratch and around 1mm outside the scratch. Then you don't have to sand it as much. Good vid as always!
Thank you so much it saved me from buying a new fork.
I know this is old but that's a sic wristwatch you're rockin. Noice 👍
Looks like an old Oakley watch 👌🏽
About spraying the fork with silicone spray - does that in any way interfere with the oil inside the fork?
Scratched Stanchions? ....New bike!
Ha! Any excuse!
Fantastic vid Doddy
I just found a scratch last week! I’ll have to try this.
Excellent video
Fantastic tip, thanks
Is metal polish the same as paint polish? you know, the same paint polish we use when working on car paint job?
I have a Suntour Epixon 27.5 TR that I'm bumping to 140mm... how can I get it more progressive as it doesn't take tokens like RS and Fox?
What would you do if you had a Fox Kashima fork, shock or dropper?
Same
This helped so godamn much
I have a set of forks and they have a gash in the stanchion that is clearly visible should i
repair it ot leave it?
What if you cannot feel the scratch? I got such I light scratch the other day. Can I just coat it with epoxy?
Is it necessary to use the metal polish?
What is the lower part called and if it gets scratched does it matter
My front forks are matte black, when they scratch the silver comes through and looks obvious, as long as the scratch isn’t too big a quick little fix is a black sharpie, doesn’t fully hide it but makes it much less obvious
What if the scratch is just a hairline? Do I need to do anything?
I just bought a pair of 160mm 36's with the intent to lower them to 100mm for a dirt jump build, they were cheap because there's a little gouge in the stanchion, but it's about 30mm above the fork seals so once lowered it will never rub over the top seal. Are there any internal o-rings I should worry about it rubbing against and damaging?
Madison & Jenn it could rub the bushes inside the lowers if the gouge has rough edges.
cool
Great video Doddy, as always! I can't figure out though why you use brake cleaner with the sandpaper. Why not just soapy water?Am I missing something? Keep up the great work love your videos
Guys can you make some commentary over the new trunnion mount shocks about how you can brake on of the eyelets if you let on bolt loose and fucked up the thread?
PS bad english, sorry
Does it work for the rear too?
Very usefull
Love this channel,
#askgmbntech where do you get replacement sag/travel indicators?
ZIP TIE :D
zip tie or your local bike shop
Rowan Connolly if you mean the o-ring it's in the full service kit, if you mean the 30%, 25%, etc gradings on the tubes.... new fork.
Such a good video
Christian Hehir been out for 10 seconds how would you know
U safe my money, thx a lot bro.
Pls help me my stanchioni is falling when I bounce
Awesome quality video!
Cheers Chris
GMBN Tech, is there any disadvantage to using colored nail polish as opposed to clear varnish? My stanchion is black so I'd like to use black polish, but don't want to do so if it'll damage the stanchion
did u did it and did it help ?
@@Revexet Yep, I used black nail polish and it worked like a charm
I have a scratch its very very small do i need to do that?
nice n' smooth af doody...as always :D great vid!
3 years ago ur taking bout radio shack!!?? That place is long dead haha
Useful
Kind of prefer videos early 🤙🏼
I’m Looking to buy a newer fork for my bike, should I buy a used fork with damage (like the one in the video) and repair it (like in the video) so it runs smooth and I can use it, thanks.
I'd be wary of buying anything that's damaged mate. If a person is happy to sell something that is damaged I doubt they will have taken good care of it. And that's just the damage you can see. Too much of a gamble and you'll have to spend even more to get it fixed.
@Blake, like ChaosEngine has said, it's a good rule of thumb not to buy damaged stuff
GMBN Tech thanks Im going to buy a undamaged fork, do you have any good suggestions for a fork with 150mm of travel or more?
What if the scratch is above like the cashima print on a fox fork where u shouldnt be usin the last few mm of travel, is that just as important
Let all the air out and compress the fork. If it goes into the seal it needs addressed.
thechosendude niceone g thanks f tellin me
Pretty sure you forgot to zip-tie it at some point :D
Superglue is best.
Superglue or cyanoacrylate is actually the key component in wood filler.
I wish rock shox or a 3rd party would make stanchion covers for the rs-1 in the same fashion cannondale do for their lefty ... at least rs-1 stanchions are a lot cheaper than normal fork as you can buy individual stanchions and complexity of CSU is not there
It went together easily in less than an hour. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Make sure the front fork is forward or the pedals will hit the front tire. Tires are both a little soft so it needs air before I ride it. The rear wheel didn't come with a clamp regular bolts hold it on. The front had the clamp. No scratches out of box. Rims are a little off with a slight wobble. They could have spent more time with the spoke tool fixing the run out. So far out of the box I'm happy with it. I did replace the pedals with a nice aftermarket set. After riding it a bit my A$$ is a bit sore so I ordered another seat. Overall I'm nearly 60 and didn't ride a bike in 30 years. I like my new 29" Schwinn. It will be used for casual rides with my friend.